The Souss, Anti Atlas & Western Sahara ﺳو اﻷطﻟس اﻟﺻﻐﯾر و اﻟﺻﺣراء اﻟﻐرﺑﯾّﺔ

© Lonely Planet Publications 373 The Souss, Anti Atlas & Western Sahara ﺳﻮ ﺍﻷﻃﻠﺲ ﺍﻟﺼﻐﻴﺮ ﻭ ﺍﻟﺼﺤﺮﺍء ﺍﻟﻐﺮﺑﻴّﺔ The fertile plains, sudden granite mountains and long stretches of pristine beach of Morocco’s southwest corner announce that you are arriving somewhere different. And you are. The Souss and the Anti Atlas are the most geographically varied regions of Morocco and also the most culturally distinct. And as if the vast, challenging nature of the landscape has had a softening effect on the character of the people, the sort of hassle visitors can suffer elsewhere in Morocco, is rare here, while the hospitality is legendary.

The Souss plain, with red-walled Taroudannt at its centre, is one of Morocco’s most important agricultural zones. To the south lies the Anti Atlas, not as challenging as the High Atlas, but less visited and with plenty worth visiting, including the contorted slopes of Jebel Bani, prehistoric rock carvings in the Akka Oasis and the idyllically peaceful Ameln Valley.

On the coast, Agadir is both the principal port of the south and Morocco’s premier beach resort. The glorious coast runs hundreds of kilometres south, past nature reserves, the art-deco splendours of Sidi Ifni and the tiny town of Tarfaya.

Further south, the Western Sahara is a vast, desolate and lightly populated tract of hammada (stony desert). Inhabited by free-spirited Saharawis, fishing communities and industrious Moroc- cans, it is a hotly disputed territory and is watched over by the ever-present security forces. .

HIGHLIGHTS Taghazout Ride killer waves or watch others in the ocean at Morocco’s top surfing spot of Ameln Valley Mirleft Tata Taghazout ( p385 ) Anti Atlas Commune with Antoine de Saint-Exupery’s Tarfaya Little Prince at Tarfaya ( p410 ) Escape the crowds and find prehistoric rock carvings around Tata ( p407 )

Hang loose in Mirleft (p395 ), the coolest Western THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & spot in the south with six fabulous beaches Sahara Lose yourself among the pink-hued rock WESTERN SAHARA faces and lush green palmeraies of the peaceful Ameln Valley ( p406 ) Trek or drive through the foothills of the Anti Atlas (p402 ), concertinaed like mille- feuille Travel to the end of the road in the Western Sahara ( p408 ) beyond the town of Dakhla THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA The Souss, Anti Atlas & Western Sahara 374 0 50 km 0 30 miles

THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA THESOUSS,ANTIATLAS &WESTERNSAHARA Asni Imi-n-Tanoute Toubkal Oukaïmeden WESTERN SAHARA Fuerteventura Tan Tan M O R O C C O Tamanar National Plage Park Cap Juby Tan Tan Ijoukak Jebel CANARY ISLANDS Tarfaya Toubkal Sidi Akhfennir (4167m) (Spain) Las Palmas de Tindouf Tamri Reserve N1 Paradise Immouzzer Tizi n'Test H i g h Gran Canaria Laâyoune Al-Haggounia Valley Argana Tamri des Ida (2092m) P40 A t l a s Aksri Outanane Afensou To Jebel Foum el-Oued Cap Rhir Smara Tichka Oued Aoulouz Siroua Plateau Behril (40km) Taghazout Tamraght Boujdour Bou Craa Souss ὄ Aourir Taroudannt Taliouine Agadir A T L A N T I C Oued Aïn Ben Tili Inezgane O C E A N N10 To Tazenakht N1 THE SOUSS Souss-Massa Tioute (54km) W e s t e r n Bîr Mogrein National Tifnite S a h a r a Park M O R O C C O A T L A N T I C Sidi R'bat Aït Baha Massa Igherm Dakhla Tropic of Cancer O C E A N s Oue Mijek a ὄὄὄ Aglou ὈMas d Jebel Lekst Ida-ou-Gnidif l s Jebel Bani Imlili Plage a (2359m) t Aoussard Zouérat S a h a r a Ameln Valley A Tiznit Assaka Tafraoute Tizi i Tata Aghoninit Col de Mlil t Tichla Mirleft Bir-Gandouz M A U R I T A N I A Kerdous n Legzira Tlata Tasrite A Plage N1 Afella-Ighir La Gueguarat 0 200 km Gouéra Nouâdhibou 0 120 miles Sidi Ifni Le Chapeau Ukas Akka Sidi Ouarsik Tizi Migghert de Napoléon & Mesti the Painted Rocks Oum El-Alek Bouzakarne Bou Jerif Amtoudi Aït Herbil N12 Plage AbaïnouN1 Blanche Taghjicht Goulmime Tighmert Drâa Tircht Oued Lanzarote Cap Drâa Tadalt

See Inset for Western Sahara

Tan Tan Plage lonelyplanet.com Fuerteventura Assa A L G E R I A Tan Tan Âouïnet- CANARY ISLANDS Torkoz (Spain) N1 Tiglite Oued Drâa Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Sidi Akhfennir THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA 022 022 022 375 x x ﺍﻛﺎﺩﻳﺮ (RGL;

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operates flights operates to also operates direct direct also operates Regional Air Lines Royal Air Maroc THE SOUSS VALLEY •• Agadir Agadir •• VALLEY SOUSS THE www.regionalmaroc.com) There is no train out of Agadir, but Su- Agadir, is no train out of There The distances involved in touring the in touring the The distances involved pratours (buses pratours run by the rail network) (four fast buses to Marrakesh runs regular, Laâyoune daily), Tiznit, and Dakhla. CTM bus services des- of to a range also operate tinations including Casablanca and Es- saouira. flights to Dakhla and Laâyoune. and from Laâyoune (Friday, Sunday, Tues- day) and Dakhla (Wednesday) and others flights from Aga- via Casablanca. Direct more often Sahara are dir to the Western than via Casablanca, though expensive cheap. none are region, particularly in the south, make it particularly in the south, make region, Agadir worthwhile considering car rental. a car in places to hire the better is one of are agencies Morocco and all the major represented. THE SOUSS VALLEY AGADIR pop 679,000 else in Mo- anywhere unlike feels Agadir A busy port and seaside town built rocco. around a fortified kasbah, it was completely in 1960. It has destroyed by an earthquake as Morocco’s premier since been rebuilt with some 30,000 beds. Laid resort beach sur- downtown streets, grid of out as a large suburbs, rounded by spacious residential bustling street the doesn’t have Agadir found in so many Moroccan cities, al- life though development the new marina may for now, lies in this. Its lure, soon provide GETTING AROUND GETTING AROUND Satas other local bus companies and CTM, the across bus routes of a range operate Tiznit, including to Taroudannt, region, Laâyoune the and Dakhla. Grands taxis are run to public transport and means of fastest most destinations in the region. GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING & AWAY THERE but is the south, of airport is the hub Agadir servednow poorly to Marrakesh. compared servicesMost international European are airline licences flights and a quirk of charter a one-way ticket it impossible to buy makes Agadir. out of 536940; 311122; www.royalairmaroc.com) by Toby by Toby

Endgame in the Western Sahara: What What Sahara: Western Endgame in the Deeper south lay the wild frontier. The Deeper south lay the wild frontier.

Arabic remains the lingua franca of all all lingua franca of the Arabic remains cities in the south. The Chleuh tribes major speak Tachelait, the Souss who dominate a Berber dialect, most noticeable in the and the Anti the Ameln Valley of villages and Span- is widely spoken Atlas. French Spain’s former ish is still heard in some of territories. LANGUAGE LANGUAGE

CLIMATE CLIMATE distinct geo- The south divides into three with its own micro- each graphical areas, Souss The semitropical, verdant climate. and humid, with temperatures is hot Valley 38°C, ranging between 22°C and a steamy a mist from vapour riseswhen water like the valley. that fill citrus groves the huge winds in The valley is also prone to heavy Anti Atlas the barren of spring. The climate hot, dry and between winters freezing veers The deep southern coastsummers. enjoys a sunny climate. constant year-round more Shelley. An expert on resource politics, he An expert on resource Shelley. hope for a peaceful is still there believes to the conflict. resolution

Future for Africa’s Last Colony? Future for Africa’s Last HISTORY its land- varied as history is as region’s The has Valley in the Souss Taroudannt scape. its with parallels Marrakesh, a story that and its to the 11th century, walls dating an part of in the 16th century as glory years Aga- to Timbuktu. that stretched empire northerly with the more a story dir shares by both formerly occupied Atlantic ports, the Portuguese Meanwhile, and Spanish. a Chleuh tribes people have the region’s dissidence and independ- long history of remain- their communities ence, many of well into ing beyond central authority the 1930s. nomadic desertknown collectively tribes the indigenous as Saharawi (constituting were Sahara) the Western population of difficult Their unique to control. even more manifested independent spirit ultimately itself in the 20th century in the Polisario The bid for autonomy for the movement. a thorn remains Saharan province Western For a side. government’s in the current the situation today, deeper of understanding read lonelyplanet.com THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA Agadir 376 Essaouira (175km) Aouri (12km); Kasbah (7km); Port (2km) Agadir (1km); (250m); Marina To ONMT Yacht ClubRestaurant(1km) Les Blancs(400m);FishStalls(1km); To RestaurantJouretNuit(200m); AGADIR THESOUSSVALLEY ••Agadir Atlantic Ocean Clinique al-Massira...... Internet Swiss...... Complete Tours...... Al MouggarBookshop...... estn...... B4 Newsstand...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Night Pharmacy...... Main PostOffice...... Change)...... Bank Populaire(Bureaude Jardim deOlhão...... Police...... Change)...... (see29) Wafa Bank(Bureaude Syndicat d'Initiative...... Newsstand...... (see 12) Carlson Wagonlit...... Adrar Net...... Ancienne

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d i THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA 377 028 842712; 028 843238; Ave 028 843238; Ave x 028 820349; Ave Sidi 028 820349; Ave x x (Map p376 ; (Map p376 ; (Map p376 ; 15) (Map p376 ; Blvd Hassan II; per hr Dh10; p376 (Map x THE SOUSS VALLEY •• Agadir Agadir •• VALLEY SOUSS THE ( 19; Rue du 18 Novembre) (Map p376 ; Ave du 29 Février, Talborjt; per du 29 Février, Talborjt; ; Ave p376 (Map x ( 9am-11pm) The busiest, most conveniently located Mohammed) Located in the basement of the town hall, nextof other night services A list to the post office. is usually posted in the windows of all pharmacies. hr Dh5). du 29 Février) MONEY ex- are and there ATMs, Most banks have at the airport. Large and ATMs booths change Ave du Prince du 29 Février, Moulay Abdallah) Ave Just off Ave a wide selectionthere’s books from novels of French and history to travel guides, and some in English about Morocco. Police INTERNET ACCESS places, charg- internet dozens of are There ing Dh5 to Dh10 per hour. Adrar Net Internet Swiss MEDICAL SERVICES ) posts a list p378 ( The Syndicat d’Initiative and pharmacies on its door. doctors of Clinique al-Massira Night Pharmacy BOOKSHOPS II, particu- News-stands Hassan along Blvd des Forces with Ave larly near the junction a good selection have Armées Royals (FAR) (usually a day or papers international of and magazines. two late) Al Mouggar Bookshop EMERGENCY able are in Agadir hotels the larger Most of English-speaking reliable, to recommend doctors. Ambulance Orientation both area, a large over spread is Agadir the huge and inland from along the coast the northern end From beach. swathe of main boulevards three and the marina, – V the ocean, Mohammed 20 Aout, nearest II – run through main tour- the and Hassan Founti has district of The southern ist area. Inland in hotels. the best resort some of Tal- town, Nouveau the northeast side of is the business centre borjt (New Talborjt) hotels. the budget and has most of Information cybercafé. h (fortified granary) agadir

Although Agadir’s tourism industry is industry is tourism Although Agadir’s French colonists did go some way to- French has de- Agadir Since its reconstruction,

Named after the History its huge swathe of sandy beach: more shel- sandy more beach: swathe of its huge the At- of other stretches than many tered swimming safe clean water, lantic, it offers sunny days a year. and some 300 holiday- to package-tour mainly geared at- number of it has an increasing makers, It’s a independent travellers. tractions for good to stop, not only for some good place R&R and for its improved old-fashioned sights – the for its gentle but restaurants, ruined kasbah, the undeveloped nearby and wind- (popular for surfing beaches National surfing) and the Souss-Massa Park. lonelyplanet.com of the Irir tribe, Agadir has a long history of has a long history of Agadir the Irir tribe, of founded in the 15th boom and bust. It was century by Portuguese wanting merchants to develop trade links with the Saharan From the mid-16th century, as caravans. expanded, the port be- the Saadian empire from the export of prosperous came very and the local sugar, cotton and saltpetre, the the Saharan trade, which products of Moroccans then controlled. But this pros- perity came to an abrupt end in the 1760s Sultan when the Alawite Sidi Mohammed the trade north to diverted ben Abdallah Essaouira. in the 20th Agadir wards redeveloping century, but the devastating earthquake killed as many 1960, which on 29 February the popu- as 18,000 people, around half of destroyed the city. The lation, completely with unable to manage authorities were and dis- death of the apocalyptic aftermath with lime and DDT, ease, sprayed the area they and consequently dead where left the had beenthe collapsed buried, in city. The known as Old is now mound this created the modern city. north of Talborjt, into an important port, with a large veloped Morocco the fishing fleet helping to make tinned sardines. of exporter world’s largest has continued to At the same time, Agadir The resort. grow as Morocco’s top beach the new luxury marina complex opening of upmar- the resort plans to move is a sign of new work on the huge as is the start of ket, at Taghazout. luxury resort THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA Mohammed V; list of doctors andpharmacies. list ofdoctors h the port, marinaandsprawling suburbs. for visiting istotake intheviewof Agadir, can stillbemade out.Butthereal reason traces ofouter dwellings wall,though these nearly 300people. Allthat remains isthe the garrisononceprovided housingfor Abandoned of totheinhabitants Agadir, andforbidmerchants totrade here.saouira kasbah, move theJewish communitytoEs- Abdallah. Hisrevenge wastogarrisonthe revolt againsttheAlawite Sultan Moulay the 1750swhenAgadir joinedinalocal tries. Events in tookaturnfortheworse beginning of tradewiththeLowCoun- and respect theKing’)isareminder of the inGodarch inDutch andArabic(‘Believe the 1740s.Theinscriptionover theentry Mohammed itwasrestored ech-Cheikh, in earthquake. Builtin1541bySaadianSultan much of ofAgadir, the isarare survival northwest of thecentre andvisiblefrom The old Sights Tours Complete Wagonlit Carlson Travel Sport Atlantic TRAVEL AGENCIES Syndicat d’Initiative Mohammed V; x ONMT Informationbooth TOURIST INFORMATION postoffice Main POST Wafa Bank Banque Populaire bankshaveThese exchange offices. hotels change cashandtravellers cheques. 378 regional information. Thebestplaceforlocaland 8.30-11.30am &3-6.30pmFri) des Forces Armées Royales) Represents allmajorairlines.des ForcesArméesRoyales)Represents region. toTaroudannt,trips Immouzzerandelsewhere inthe Oumlil 26,Ave Runs HassanII;www.complete-tours.com) airport; airport; mountain-bike trips outofAgadir. trips mountain-bike Runsdaytreks and [email protected]) 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noonSat) 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 028 846377;fax846379;ImmeubleIgnouan,Ave THESOUSSVALLEY ••Agadir (Délégation Régionale du Tourisme; Map Map (Délégation RégionaleduTourisme; p376 ; h kasbah 8.30am-noon &2.30-6.30pm) (Map (Map p376 ; BlvdHassanII) h h Mp p7 ; p376 (Map (Map (Map p376 ; Ave SidiMohammed; 9am-noon &3-6.30pm)Usefulforthe 8.30am-noon &2.30-6.30pmMon-Thu, (Map (Map p376 ; (Map p376 ), onahill7km (Map (Map p376 ; BlvdHassanII) ( x Mp p376; (Map Mp p7 ; p376 (Map 028 839077; Al-Massira 028 839077;Al-Massira x x 028 823401;Immeuble x 028 841528;26Ave x 028 825304;Ave 061 387177; des Oiseaux quest (atipiswelcome).Nearbythe A free guidedtourcanbearranged onre- culture people of of theregion. theBerber place tolearnabout thetraditionallife and iwin inMarrakesh ( p302 ), thisisagreat Flint, theDutch ownerof theMaison Tisk- cially strongonjewellery.Inspired byBert artefacts, espe- excellent displayof Berber the quake. the 1920s,whileothers of showtheeffects include interesting photosof Agadir since dedicated tothe1960earthquake. Displays Blvd du20Août. runs downfromBlvdHassan IIsouthto small zoo,created inthedryriverbed that children’s playground, withanaviary and there’s town of Olhão. Inthesouthwestcorner twinning of Agadir withthePortuguese relaxing spot created in1992to markthe Dh5/3; up someatmosphere. at the a visittothekasbahitisworthdroppingin (Dh20 toDh25)andwalkbackdown.After get uplong, hotanduncomfortable: ataxi earthquake. Thewalkuptothekasbahis grave whodiedinthe1960 forallthose old Agadir townandconstitutes amass Talborjt The grassyarea belowthekasbah, ( p376 ; Ave duPrésidentKennedy; p376; roud Ben Sergao; adult/childDh40/20; roud BenSergao; an idealised Berber village, builtusing tra- Berber an idealised architect, hascreated the Italianroad, CocoPolizzi, aRabat-born in thecity. will increasingly becomeahubof activity tional brands),cafésandrestaurants, this of writing).Withshops(mostlyinterna- ments andahotel (stillnotopenatthetime palace, themarinahasarange of apart- well asmooringforyourfloatingpleasure thebeachtween andcommercialport.As h .com) dir admission Dh20; x

The newest sight intownis The newestsight Equally refreshing is The small Four kilometres south,ontheInezgane Mp p376; (Map 9am-12.30pm &3-7pmTue-Sat) 028 280253;www.medinapolizzi.com, inFrench; Agh- , abillion-dirhampleasure portbe- x h port port (Map p376 ), covers theremains of Mémoire d’Agadir Mémoire 028 821632;Passage AïtSouss,BlvdHassanII; 9.30am-12.30pm &2.30-7pm)

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Mp p7 amsin free; admission p376; (Map h Jardin deOlhão La Médinad’Agadir a small museum asmallmuseum h 8am-6pm) lonelyplanet.com 8.30am-6.30pm) , ashaded Marina Aga- Marina Ancienne ,

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runs for several runs for several and the very spruce, spruce, and the very 061 215746; www.voilesdusud just south of Ave du Ave just south of x ( Hammam Salam promenade

Hammam Talborjt , who operates a 16-person a 16-person , who operates Inshallah. I used to hate it. Then Inshallah. it. Then I used to hate THE SOUSS VALLEY •• Agadir Agadir •• VALLEY SOUSS THE Voiles du Sud You can get out onto the water by sailing out onto the water You can get with kilometres from the marina to the royal to the royal from the marina kilometres palace. women-only Rue de Tarfaya; from Dh10) Rue de Tarfaya; Rue de Tarfaya; from Dh10) Rue de Tarfaya; HAMMAMS HAMMAMS Tal- Nouveau hammams in a few are There borjt, including which also have showers, toilets and a kids’ toilets and a kids’ showers, also have which and hotels beach larger Many play area. out windsurfing equipment surf clubs rent (Dh120 per hour), jet skis (Dh300 for 20 bodyboards (Dh60 per hour) and minutes), surfboards (Dh120 per hour). If you pre- to stroll, the fer ketch and 30-person catamaran out of the catamaran out of and 30-person ketch marina. .com; per person in morning Dh300, per person day trip incl lunch Dh450) People’s attitude. Space. The beach. I love the the I love beach. The Space. attitude. People’s , beach I have been living here in Agadir for 22 years! I arrived for 22 years! I arrived in Agadir here been living I have We both work a lot, so the weekend is usually only Sunday. We both work a lot, so the weekend is usually only Sunday. It has changed a hell of a lot! Before it was like a big like it was a big a lot! Before It has changed a hell of I arrived to work at Club Med for the summer season, met summer season, met work at Club Med for the to I arrived I love the Mezzo Mezzo for Jean Mi, the owner of the place, the Mezzo Mezzo for Jean Mi, the owner of the place, I love (Map p376 ) ) p376 (Map Palm Beach Palm or

Sunset Beach in 1986 here? choose to live Why did you hello when you go out. saying everybody the morning, birds singing, blue sky when I get up in is possible the fact Everything that IMPOSSIBLE is not a word Moroccans understand. I also love patient. if you are restaurant? And your favourite MARIE-LUCE MILANO KRIMI MILANO MARIE-LUCE Alsace, in the northeastFormerly from Milano Marie-Luce of France, to the Krimi is assistant Beach Club Hotel of the Agadir general manager in Agadir? you lived How long have my future husband (Moroccan guy also working there) and we decided to try living together. guy also working husband (Moroccan living together. and we decided to try my future there) red birds, a few two cats, several two dogs, two daughters, we have years later Twenty-two fishes and many friends. then? Has it changed much since Eu- a big town, many new people, more Now it’s quite other. knowing each village – everybody side… Progress has become nice and clean, but it has lost its ‘typical’ ropeans as well, the town we all know, and having Marjane, the big supermarkethas its good and bad sides is not one of I likedlittle shop next the day and nearly all night, with a little door, open all the good sides. man speaking look- other language than Arabic but knowing exactly hardly any what you were language you spokedon’t worry, come and pay tomorrow’ and saying ‘oh ing for in whatever any change. when you didn’t have about the place? So what do you like best the pizza is the best in town. phrase in Arabic, Berber or French? What’s your favourite I understood that in fact the whole world should use it. And now I use it a million times a day! I understood that in fact times a day! the whole world should use it. And now I use it a million Inshallah philosophy. is a real How do you spend your weekends? My daughters spend their Saturdays bodyboarding. I sometimes go to the souq for my shopping. I sometimes go to the souq for my shopping. spend their Saturdays bodyboarding. My daughters We certainly don’t and see friends in the evening. we go to the beach or to Taroudannt Then stay home in front of the TV, this is for sure. The beach is mostly hassle-free, but but is mostly hassle-free, The beach

which usually remains unruffled when the usually remains which It’s elsewhere. blustering Atlantic winds are clean and well maintained, and during peak periods (June to September) is patrolled is a strong undertow) (there by lifeguards and police. a more or families will have single females beaches the private of time at one relaxed such and umbrella) (Dh20 for a deckchair as

The glory of Agadir is its crescent is its crescent Agadir The glory of Activities BEACH ditional techniques and materials, with with and materials, ditional techniques workshops for 30 independent artisans. refreshments. provides A café-restaurant buses costs Dh60/30) Shuttle (adult/child out to La from the drive Médina d’Agadir kiosk on Blvd du 20 Août, picking up at several on the way. hotels lonelyplanet.com THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA hotels are awayfrom the oceaninNou- viewscomeat a price,somost budget Sea BUDGET the year. remain pretty much throughout constant online forrates. Pricesforbudget hotels it’salwaysworthchecking though season, hotels offer adiscountonroomsduring low be sure of aroom.Midrange andtop-end months,these it’sbest tobookahead makers fly outonpackage tours. During Christmas period,whenEuropeanholiday- Agadir summerandthe includesEaster, in ofselection budget season places.High from thebeach, youwillfindavery good and top-endvisitor,butifyoumove away Agadir onthemidrange itssights hasset Sleeping Palmiers, massageperhrfromDh650) BenSergao; (off Map p376 ; ments, oneof thebestbeing hammam, massage andarange of treat- hotelscated, have several spasoffering pamper yourself fromDh80. more luxurioushammamswhere youcan Président Kennedy. Many bighotels have Talborjt Nouveau 380 the centre of town, of massages. massages. of argan-based cosmeticsandenjoyarange an argan centre where youcanbuyoiland Ben Barka, No.8 Riad Salam;2hrmassagefromDh350) No.8 Riad Ben Barka, x

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breakfast spot. spot. breakfast (off Map p376 ; p376 (off Map x the 028 846773; Rue du Oued du Oued 028 846773; Rue

Excellent Moroccan x (off Map p376 ; p376 (off Map The best-located restau- The best-located Near Souq al-Had, this Near Souq al-Had, Ask any Agadir resident for resident any Agadir Ask (Map p376 ; (Map p376 ; THE SOUSS VALLEY •• Agadir Agadir •• VALLEY SOUSS THE Les Blancs

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Mezzo Mezzo Yacht Club Restaurant Yacht Yacout Yacout La Scala Restaurant Marrakesh Bab o Marina; mains from Dh90) Souss; meal with wine Dh350) Souss; meal with as Restaurant the fish couldn’t be du Port, restau- at this modernist waterfront fresher inside the commercial fishing rant situated plain, but port. The lighting decor are and fried and the food, particularly the freshly the day and calamari, is re- of grilled catch liable and the service a There’s hassle-free. for warm days. terrace rant in Agadir by a long way. At the very long way. At the very by a rant in Agadir the en- and at the beach northern end of development,trance to the new marina Les bar, elegant, white-tiled Blancs is a chilled, A Spaniard runs the and restaurant. lounge servingkitchen Andalucian and a mix of Moroccan dishes. Service can be slow. restaurant, popular with wealthy Moroc- popular with restaurant, which tourists and Westerners, cans, Arab for a pleasantly cosmopolitanmakes atmo- and and fresh, The food is elegant sphere. beautifully presented. is the real thing, far removed from the tour- thing, far removed is the real by Highly regarded ist traps near the beach. locals, it serves authentic Moroccan food at authentic prices. 826144; Rue de Massa; tajine for 2 people Dh100, couscous Dh70, sandwich Dh25-35) CAFÉS you cafés where of a good choice There’s can start and pastries coffee the day with beach Agadir of from the rigours or recover to be open by 8am and run Most tend life. until at least 8pm. serves straightforward classics: Moroccan on cooked and brochettes tajine couscous, grill. No alcohol. a wood-fired 843708; commercial port; meal Dh200) their list of favourite restaurants and this restaurants favourite their list of pizzeria will be on it. Why? ‘Because it’s never had a bad fun.’ ‘I’ve always so much ‘Worth going just to see Jean meal there.’ d’, at work.’ Classic piz- the maitre Michel, zas and pastas. shaded garden, screeching parrot and deli- shaded garden, screeching pastries, Yacout cious Moroccan-Western wins hands down as san II; meal Dh200)

) An ex- ) asi s 028 842817; fax 028 842817; 028 820088; www x x 028 841186; Blvd Hassan II; 028 337033; www.riaddesgolfs x (Map p380 ;

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Tucked away to the south of Agadir, this Agadir, away to the south of Tucked archi- villa, designed and run by a French mega- of bucks the trend and his wife, tect and simply elegant suites, Eighthotels. large and trees pool surrounded by olive a heated servinga restaurant best the city’s some of mean that this ap- food (only for residents) heading to than just golfers peals to more the nearby courses. tremely popular and well-run downtown and well-run downtown popular tremely block located white in a modernist hotel manages hall. The Kamal near the town clients, in- of a wide range to appeal to groups and travelling cluding package-tour brightand clean, Rooms are Moroccans. a pool large the staff and there’s helpful are rooms can enough to swim laps. Streetside is dull and (Dh36) be noisy, and breakfast overpriced. Le Nomade RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS

Agadir used to be a culinary desertAgadir where lucky to find anything reliable you were But a or pizza. outside the usual tajine stirred openings have recent number of stop servingthings up. Many food by 10pm, but some stay for drinks. Agadir open later serverestaurants unless stated. alcohol Eating Most luxury hotels along the seafrontMost luxury hotels cater them offer of but most tours, to package so be sure rates, deals on their published to ask. TOP END TOP END 028 843940; Blvd Hassan II; s/d Dh403/462; 028 843940; Blvd MIDRANGE MIDRANGE o Booklonelyplanet.com stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at mains DH60) large range of resort hotels. Built like a low- Built like hotels. resort of range large to seemrise kasbah, it manages smaller than had a recent have which its 240 rooms, all of include an excel- Luxury facilities upgrade. lent thalassotherapy spa, hammam, several and a beach swimming pools, a well-tended It also boasts Agadir’s restaurants. of range ). p382 most happening nightclub (see .sofitel.com; Baie des Palmiers, Ben Sergao; s/d from Dh750/ .sofitel.com; Baie des Palmiers, 900; municipal market, Hadj Larbi’s restaurant Hadj municipal market, .com; Chemins des Francais; ste from Dh1760; THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA treats andisgoodforpeople-watching. has aseductive arrayof andsavoury sweet the RoyalTennis Club,thisParisian-style café Hassan II) night wearsnight on. asthe it getsfor asundowner,though seedy Saturday andSunday. veg from theSoussValley. It’sliveliest on entertainers. dubious pleasure of karaoke orcrooning and 8pmeach orsome offer night, the bars have happy hours about5pm between open till1aminsummer. Themajority of Some of theplacesalongPalm stay Beach to chill outatmiddayortoastthesunset. There are plentyof placesalongthebeach Drinking The large SELF-CATERING (off Map p376 ; mealsaroundDh50) hours. areand aroundthebusstations openafter The cheap snackbars inNouveau Talborjt QUICK EATS the mainmenu. andice-creamroccan sweets cakes. Avoid Mo- sandwiches, inthedayitserves Later 382 nonsense fish,tryoneof themany nonsense pizzas (Dh45toDh50).Forultra-fresh, no- chickens (halfchicken Dh54)andarange of du Prince MoulayAbdallah) du Prince 840610; RuedelaPlage; p376; Abdallah) of Agadir’s bestFrench cakes andpastries. picnic onthebeach. Theyalsomake some made dishes,perfect foraquickmealor café and Market’sCentral parking,thisFrench-run bar, The Pub. complexisalso theIrish ated in thesame and someof Agadir’s cheapest beers. Situ- the commercialport. Août) Atthe side touristtat. Market wineandspirits.The biscuits tobeer, Central Market, BlvdHassanII) Central Market, Cuisine Gourmande Cuisine Piano Bar Restaurant JouretNuit Restaurant La Verandah THESOUSSVALLEY ••Agadir Has areal pianistunderthe palmtrees h (Map p376 fresh) sells foodalong- anditstwin, SOS Poulet sells everything fromcheese and everything sells Tue-Sun) traiteur Uniprix supermarket Uniprix (Map (Map p376 ; Tafoukt Complex,Blvddu 20

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1pm &3-7pmMon-Sat) 827154; Ave desForcesArmées Royales) Beach, CheminsdesDunes; from Dh60. onThursday, butdrinksare andsalsa night bars of themoment,girls-onlyonTuesday head to prices. ForsomeMoroccanatmosphere downtown. crafts are available atthe area outsidethewestern gate. Better-quality items goodsandasecond-hand household the southeastern suburbs,withsouvenirs, the climaxof entertainment. theevening’s Thursdays. Agadir swingers save thisonefor floor andchill-out area. GuestDJsappearon vodka bar,live-music stage, restaurant, dance andincludesachampagne levels bar, several one of themostexpensive. Sois laidouton Timatar Agadir’s annualmusicfestival, the Entertainment hotel.com; Blvddu20Août) Mp p380; (Map p376 ; BlvdHassanII) to beof lowquality. from otherpartsof thecountryandtend Most souvenirs in Agadir are trucked in Shopping free of charge around2am. andclubsclose touristsarethe lowseason, often allowedin during weekends, includingadrink.During clubs. Entryranges fromDh50toDh250 Moroccans andtouristsmove tothehotel tothebighotels.attached mostly scattered alongBlvddu20Août,or round, there isadecentrange of clubs, and Africanmusicianseach July.Year- attracts arange of top-rankingMoroccan Faiz, Rue206) some beachwear, specially commissioned ranges. Ifyou need homewares, craftsandpaintings, including h on thebeach. awayandchill can circles.Dancethenight regarded infairlyrespectable even Moroc- Agadir’s andwell mostpopularnightclubs, Bar Fly Tawarguit Papa Gayo around1am,When bars toclose start So 10pm-5am) (off Map (off Map

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Uniprix supermarket Uniprix x 028 840123;www.tafoukt 10pm-4am) x 028 848225;Lotissement ( Ensemble Artisanal 028 845400; Riu Tikida 028 845400;Riu a p376; Map lonelyplanet.com hasopened h Stilloneof Tue-Sun) h Festival x

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THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA 383 028 846061/840760; Ave 028 846061/840760; Ave x airport 028 839101, office 028 airport 028 839071, office 028 airport 028 839244, office 028 x x x (Map p376 ; THE SOUSS VALLEY •• Agadir Agadir •• VALLEY SOUSS THE (Map ; p376 (Map ; p376 (Map ; p376 A grand taxi between the airport and A grand taxi between the airport and 848222; www.budget.com; Immeuble Marhaba, Ave Marhaba,848222; www.budget.com; Immeuble Ave Mohammed V) Agadir costs Dh150 by day, and Dh200 at costs Dh150 Agadir night Expect for up to six people. to pay for luggage. more BUS The main local bus station is next to the grand-taxi the southern end of rank at Getting Around Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT bus between the airport is no direct There the Bus 22 runs from outside and Agadir. 500m straightairport (about out on the road) to Inezgane (Dh5) every 40 minutes 8.30pm. From Inezgane, or so until about several (Dh3), or take buses run to Agadir a grand taxi (Dh8). Avis Budget Hertz TAXI The main grand-taxi at rank is located is a Rue de Fès. There the south end of el- smaller grand-taxi rank on Rue Yacoub a rough As Talborjt. in Nouveau Mansour guide, a seat on a long-distance ride (more than 50km) costs Dh4 per km. Destinations (Dh8) include Inezgane (Dh8), Taghazout (Dh35), Essaouira (Dh70), , Taroudannt (Dh120), Laâyoune (Dh200) Marrakesh and Dakhla (Dh350). CAR & MOTORCYCLE MOTORCYCLE CAR & but in Morocco, is never cheap Carhire the country’s best some of you can find out checking It is worth deals in Agadir. II, along Blvd Hassan the local agencies start prices per at around Dh300 where smallest car, thoughday for the there’s for haggling.usually room Cars Always the locals, of the most reputable is one of used operators. tour by several foreign also avail- are and motorbikes Scooters care- able, although should check you as we have the machines fully the state of problems with the standard of heard of maintenance. Always Cars Mohammed V) 840939; www.hertz.com; Immeuble Marhaba, Ave Mohammed V) 841755; www.avis.com; Ave Mohammed V) Ave 841755; www.avis.com;

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x x Marrakesh train station (Dh90, four hours, train station (Dh90, four hours, Marrakesh (Dh40, four hours, several daily), Tiznit two daily), Laâyoune (Dh210, 11 hours, one daily), Dakhla one hours, (Dh340, 21 hours, daily) and Essaouira (Dh60, three several daily). to Casablanca (Dh180, eight hours, six to Casablanca six (Dh180, eight hours, daily). The 10.30pm continues to Rabat also depar- are There (Dh195, 10 hours). (Dh80, four hours, for Marrakesh tures seven daily), Essaouira (Dh60, two hours, one daily), Dakhla three hours, (Dh340, 20 daily), Laâyoune five (Dh190, 10 hours, one daily) (Dh300, 13 hours, daily), Tangier one daily). (Dh235, 12 hours, and Fez daily flights to Casablanca and Paris, as well daily flights to Casablanca and Paris, as weekly services to Dakhla, Marrakesh and several European capitals. Marrakesh, Ouarzazate, Laâyoune Ouarzazate, and Da- Marrakesh, in the Canarykhla as well as Las Palmas Islands. ( ( BUS buses serveAlthough a good number of you’ll end up in possible it is quite Agadir, trans- the regional Inezgane, 13km south, buy your ticket. you port hub. Check before grands taxis (Dh10) and local busesPlenty of and Agadir. (Dh5) shuttle between there tion; Map p376 ) on Rue Chair al-Hamra ) on Rue Chair al-Hamra p376 tion; Map past the Souq ben Brahim, Mohammed but a work-in-progress, looks like al-Had, circular building is finally fully this massive companies are functioning and all major running services need If you to from here. on a specific bus, it is worth booking travel ahead.

Al-Massira Airport is mainly served Agadir, of 28km southeast banks are flights. There charter by European car-hire ATMs, and booths with exchange offices, information office a tourist and a restaurants. couple of Getting There & Away Getting There & Away AIR lonelyplanet.com www.royalairmaroc.com; Ave du Général Kettani) Ave www.royalairmaroc.com; services here. out of maroc.com) maroc.com) THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA the stalls aroundthemainsquare.the stalls a restaurant, there though isbetter foodat lounge and vate bathrooms.ItalsohasaTV ful hotel withmodern,boxy roomsandpri- (bus 22). heading to Agadir andAl-Massira airport (Dh5) (Dh3) andgrandstaxis local buses (Dh90, sixhours). Goulimime (Dh50,4½hours) and Tan Tan gather here, aswelllessregular for taxis and Taroudannt (Dh20,2½hours) also three hours), Tiznit (Dh20,twohours) Soussi. Mokhtar Supratours are offices oneithersideof Ave the Agadir–Tiznitoff road.TheCTM and possible directions. isjust Thebusstation and outsidethemarket. and restaurants aroundthemainsquare very comfortingafter alongbusjourney. cuisine withsomeMoroccanspecialities,all menu Dh115)isold-fashionedset French Mokhtar Soussi;s/dwithshowerDh100/160) Mokhtar estuary. Therestaurant ers as itisafew minutes fromtheSouss of flowers. bybirdwatch- Thehotel isused inagardenfull bungalowsset comfortable is arelic of another,low-key Agadir, its d’Agadir; s/dDh194/226) [email protected]; Km8Rte bus station. there’s aclutch of cheap hotels aroundthe lot –Tuesdayisthemainsouq. andgrand-taxi the combinedbusstation a vastfresh-produce market acrossfrom stopping here forthatvery reason. There’s ist destination,butsometravellers enjoy gane, 13kmsouthof Agadir, isnotatour- One of theregion’s transporthubs,Inez- Inezgane AROUND AGADIR switched on. are worked outbymeter, soaskforittobe Orange runaroundtown.Prices petitstaxis TAXI 14 gotoTaghazout (Dh5). 12and buses or sotoInezgane(Dh3).Ratag 10minutes 5and6runevery town. Buses 384 Hôtel-Restaurant LaPergola Hôtel-Restaurant Adding totheorganised chaos are regular (Dh50, Loads of toEssaouira grandstaxis There are plentyof goinginall buses You’ll alsofinddozens of cheap cafés Hôtel Louz Hôtel overnight,Should tostay youneed THESOUSSVALLEY ••AroundAgadir

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( x isacheer- 028 271803; ﺇﻧﺰﻛﺎﻥ tional Park headquarters tional Park headquarters horned oryxes.scimitar The gazelles, addaxes, red-necked ostriches and peared fromthesouthincludingDorcas speciesthat havepark contains nowdisap- while alarge fenced area inthenorthof the sian wildboarare alsofoundinthepark, of theTamri River . aroundOuedMassaibises oratthemouth youcanspotthe though main off-limits, For themoment,breeding groundsre- were shelved andClubMed hasretreated. other concernedorganisations, theplans the globalauthorityonbirdnumbers, and after pressure fromBirdLife International, resort onthecoastsideof thepark,but granted permission tobuildamassive new opment. Afew years agoClubMed was threat, now,comesfromtourismdevel- is foundintheSouss-Massa. Thegreatest but over halfof population theworld’stotal Mediterranean,found aroundtheEastern small coloniesorbreeding pairs have been areEast, nowanendangered species.Afew tral Europe,NorthAfricaandtheMiddle cient Egypt andoncewidespread inCen- birds,reveredof These baldibises. inan- But thebiggest attractionisthepopulation aswellgreatermonly seen, flamingos. flocks of pochard andotherducksare com- November. visit are March toApril,andOctober great place forwalking.Thebesttimesto lar withbirdwatchers, itisalsoa although near Inezgane,ithasbecomevery popu- for birds.AlongwiththeSoussestuary tion of asafeeding ground itsimportance and forests. steppes dunes,farmland,coastal sand cliffs, beach. andwildplaceof Itisaspectacular andthethe mainnorth–southhighway 33,000 hectares of protected landbetween 70km southof Agadir, ablockof over of allthecountry’snationalparksstretches in Morocco’sfuture. The mostsignificant are more goingto becomeever important Places like the Souss-Massa NationalPark NATIONALSOUSS-MASSA PARK take themainAgadir–Inezgane highway park, islocated atOued Souss.Toget there, looks after theday-to-dayrunning of the Jackal, red fox, wild cat,genet andEura- During thewinter, ospreys andlarge The parkwascreated in1991recogni- ﺍﻟﻮﻃﻨﻲ ( x 028 333880)

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Villa Mandala are both popular with the both popular with the are Dynamic Loisir and Surf Marokko is a rare find. Established in 1999 to is a rare In Tamraght, in the midst of numerous in the midst of Tamraght, In Local bus 12 from Agadir bus station bus station 12 from Agadir Local bus close location, its unprepossessing Despite If you’re looking for surf and less less for surf and looking If you’re THE SOUSS VALLEY •• North •• Agadir of VALLEY SOUSS THE .surfmarokko.de) surf breaks, surf breaks, prepare local dishes. There is an in-house is an local dishes. There prepare hammam (Dh100), as well as body-therapy and a female sessions be arranged, that can staff you to Aourir member can also take hammam (Dh250). Les Amis des Artisans, association founded here, the craftworkers but a selection now has its office in Agadir, crafts is ironwork and other their pottery, of and is for sale. used here help women travel safely in Morocco, it has safely help women travel since morphed into a guest house that sup- ports artisans. has five The villa on the beach and a large airy rooms, communal showers communally taken (Dh130) are salon. Meals to wander the house, free in- and guests are where cluding the kitchen, Taghazout Taghazout the laid- from Tamraght, Six kilometres which Taghazout, of back fishing village (with a stop on Blvd Mohammed V, out- V, on Blvd Mohammed (with a stop runs up the Hotel) side the Royal Mirage (Dh5) and beyond. The coast to Taghazout daily buses between Essaouira and Agadir also stop here. Aourir, to the town of crowded beaches, then head further north, then head further crowded beaches, every sandy beautiful coves are there where kilometres. few Aourir & Tamraght as Banana be- Village Known collectively sur- that banana groves the large cause of lie some Tamraght round them, Aourir and respec- Agadir, of 12km and 15km north They separated Tamraght. by Oued tively, Banana Beach, share can be good which Aourir also has a lively for beginner surfers. on the ocean side Wednesday souq each the road. of Aourir; s/d incl breakfast 314773; www.villa-mandala.com; Dh550/880) has a palace north of Agadir on the road to on the Agadir of palace north has a the of the building has funded Taghazout, this stretch. road along 061 259838; Tamraght) 061 259838; Tamraght) surfing crowd, and offer board rental and and board rental surfing crowd, and offer Dynamic Loisir also runs the beach courses. café.

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ﻣﺼﺎ 061 280319; has two has two asi x (

Sidi R’bat Ksar Massa

The tiny village of of The tiny village

This wonderful guest house is on the beach a wonderful place to unwind. Luxuriously in painted are spacious rooms and suites the and the pool overlooks bright colours guided can arrange ocean. Management trips into the park and throughout the re- signposts from follow the there gion. To get Massa. Most beaches near Agadir have been colo- have near Agadir Most beaches built winter who have nised by foreigners, Saudi Arabia, who of King Fahd villas here. NORTH OF AGADIR NORTH AGADIR OF Getting There & Away Getting There & Away head into the 4WD tours From Agadir, and Oued Souss park, but both Oued Massa usually accessible by 2WD (or grand are taxi). The Gab bus 17 runs from Inezgane or so, (Dh10) every 30 minutes to Massa it is about an hour’s walk to from where mouth. For Oued Souss river Oued Massa bus 40 take and the park headquarters, V Mohammed from any stop along Ave in Agadir. www.ksarmassa.com; Sidi R’bat, Oued Massa;www.ksarmassa.com; B&B per person Dh900, full board per person Dh1350;

Some 58km south of Agadir there’s a sec- there’s Agadir Some 58km south of of near the village ond entrance to the park from the main highway. signposted Massa, to Dh150) can be Trained guides (Dh100 warden’s of- through the forestry arranged rides as can donkey fice near the car park, to along the river for kids. A track leads and the village the estuary mouth (3km) Sidi R’bat. of the Supposedlyclaims to fame. this is where up by a whale, biblical Jonah was vomited Uqba bin Nafi, the 7th-cen- and also where rode his Morocco, tury Arab conqueror of horse triumphantly into the sea and called on God to witness the fact that he could Spectacularly find no land left to conquer. and in the beach on the gorgeous located the park is middle of Oued Massa past Golf des Dunes. Take the right fork Take des Dunes. past Golf before the park entrance will find and you of At the time the royal palace. you reach was shut because,they centre our visit, the their renewed had not said, the government will have hope this situation contract. We publication. by the time of been rectified lonelyplanet.com THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA -amouage.com; s/dDh170/220; which café-restaurants upfromthe beach, of theoceanandtheresee are simple several main road,butthepointof being here isto room opentothepublic. studiosand an internet ple self-catering Résidence Amouage turn upandfindsomewhere. try Otherwise, youcanusuallyand outof season high apartments. nearby luxuryandself-catering day forwetsuitandsurfboard.Theyalsorent you tothebestwaves) andfromDh200per includingsurfguiding(taking half-board packages fromDh500perperson pernight good viewover thesurf.Theyhave arange of break. onaterrace witha Breakfast isserved listeningthe coasttofallasleep waves ingly rare opportunityalongthisstretch of roomsprovidestraightforward anincreas- What’smore,as wellyogaclasses. the surfcampforalllevels, fers afull-service a groupof passionate Britishsurfers, itof- you pass through theaptlynamed you pass through Atlas foothills.On theway into the High takes youabout60kmnortheastof Agadir, recommended Thisthoroughly sidetrip IMMOUZZER DESIDAOUTANANE villa of tember toMay. Point. Thesurfismostreliable fromSep- ners tryouttheappropriately namedHash to attractexperiencedsurfers, whilebegin- Source andAnkaPointcontinue Point, La the surfisstillup.Surfbreaks such asKiller all 20,000bedsare ready. Inthemeantime, itwillbesomeyears2009, though before golf courseare duetoopenattheendof Taghazout villages. The first hotel and Tamraghtelling thegroundbetween and the timeof ourvisit,bulldozers were lev- be knownasoneof itslargest resorts: at mier surfingbeaches. soonitwill However is nowconsidered oneof Morocco’spre- was oncefamousforcalamariandhippies, 386 a great placetocatch thesunset. isslow,butthefishfresh. It’salso Service south endof thebeach, hasthebestview. half-board fromDh500) rperpersonincl 00 441794322709;www.surfmaroc.co.uk; There are somegoodplacestoeatonthe There are roomstorent inthevillage, If youare asurfer, thenthebeachfront THESOUSSVALLEY ••ImmouzzerdesIdaOutanane Panorama o

Surf Maroc Surf (breakfast Dh18,tajineDh40) istheplacetogo. Runby ( x 028 200006;www.residence i ﺍﻭﺗﻨﺎﻥ ( x ) ,

which hassim- 028 200368, in UK 028 200368,inUK

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ﺍﻳﻤﻮﺯﺍﺭ Paradise atthe good Moroccanmeals. terrace lookingontotheriver, andserves shared bathrooms. Thehotel hasapleasant turn-off. Functional roomscomewithclean the roadtoImmouzzerfromcoastal family-run auberge isabouthalfwayalong Dh600/725; www.bonnefranquette-agadir.com, inFrench; s/dhalf-board from thebranches. Thursday issouqday. climb upintothetrees toshake theolives whenvillagers to witnesstheolive harvest, late November youmaybeluckyenough vest andfestival inJuly/August,andaround almond trees blossom.There isahoneyhar- fordirections. ChezRachid Restaurant the sourceof theriver above thefalls.Ask at falls. Alsoworthconsideringisthewalkto walk. Steps leaddowntothebottomof the place tohangaroundforafew days,and without watereven pressure, isadelightful love intherock.Immouzzer, symbolcarved Jimi Hendrix isresponsible forthepeace/ be gladtotake youthere, telling youhow waterfall nearby–villagersand second will of Therebase thecliff. isacoolplunge pool chutes, in several collectinginpools atthe prove accessandvisitorfacilities. tothefallsandim- many buildingsclose change asplanshave agreed been toremove little more than atrickle. Thesite isaboutto August –atothertimesthey’re reduced to Februaryflow moststronglybetween and of NorthAfrica’smostbeautifulwaterfalls, and apopularpicnicswimmingspot. Valley -hotel.com, in French; s/dhalf-board Dh600/900; Tifrit Hôtel Sleeping &Eating board Dh250/390; east of Immouzzer, inawonderful location through thepalmgroves.through here youcanworkoff that lunch withawalk and aheated poolopenyear-round. From also five cosyroomswith private bathrooms mitting (mealsaroundDh120).There are out inafloweringcourtyard,weather per- reasonably pricedFrench cooking,served trees, and isasurprising placetofindtasty from Immouzzerandsurrounded byargan Auberge à la Bonne Franquette àlaBonneFranquette Auberge The area turnswhite inspringwhenthe Water fallsoff theedge of theplateau The famouscascadesof Immouzzer, one Hôtel des Cascades desCascades Hôtel ,

an oleander- andpalm-linedgorge, si

( x s 028 826044;Paradise Valley; s/dwithhalf ) Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book In thevillage of Aksri,15km ) Set right bytheriver, right this Set ( x 028 826016;www.cascades lonelyplanet.com ( x 028 823191; s ) Just THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA 387 028 854599) Next to Grande x (Rue du 20 Août) Off Ave Hassan II, to Hassan (Rue du 20 Août) Off Ave ( (Ave Bir Zaran; per hr Dh8) Internet access. (Ave (Ave Mohammed V; per hr Dh8) Internet access. Internet access. Mohammed V; per hr Dh8) (Ave (Ave Moulay Rachid) By the kasbah.(Ave THE SOUSS VALLEY •• Taroudannt Taroudannt •• VALLEY SOUSS THE Most buses and grands taxis terminate The cheaper hotels are all on or near the are hotels The cheaper Taroudannt continued to be a centre of of continued to be a centre Taroudannt Mosquée. just outside the medina’s southern gate, Bab just outside the medina’s southern gate, Zorgane. Hospital Main post office the east of the kasbah. Night pharmacy Wafanet two central squares: Place al-Alaouyine (still Place al-Alaouyine two central squares: known by its former Berber name, Place (formerly Place and Place an-Nasr Assarag) and a small Banks, restaurants Talmoqlate). in this area. clustered are post office Information al- on Place ATMs banks have Three and BMCE Alaouyine (Banque Populaire, facilities and exchange and all have BMCI), also does BMCE cheques. accept travellers cash advances. Club Roudana intrigue and sedition against the central intrigue and sedition against the central into the 20th century, and well government indeed played host to the Idrissid El-Hiba, who opposeda southern chief the Treaty the that created Fès, the 1912 agreement of Protectorate. French Orientation towns, many southern Moroccan Unlike for its reputation and perhaps because of didn’t use Taroudannt sedition, the French so it or military centre, as an administrative or ville nouvelle. has no ‘European’ quarter selves here in 1056 AD, at the beginning beginning AD, at the in 1056 here selves 16th In the Morocco. of conquest their of made it Saadians emerging century the By the their capital 20 years. for about they on to Marrakesh, time they moved the in which the Souss Valley, had turned city stands, most im- into the country’s sugar cane, cotton, portantproducer of trade items – all valuable rice and indigo the dy- trade routes on the trans-Saharan to control. The Saadians nasty was so keen and the town of the old part constructed destroyed it was kasbah, though most of and the inhabitants in 1687 by massacred for oppos- Moulay Ismail, as punishment survived.ing him. Only the ramparts Most what stands from the inside them dates of 18th century.

ﺗﺎﺭﻭﺩﺍﻧﺖ

There aren’t any must-see sights here. any must-see aren’t sights here. There is the Taroudannt Some 53km east of

History the early bases of was one of Taroudannt who established them- the Almoravides,

Taroudannt (also spelled Taroudant) is is spelled Taroudant) (also Taroudannt but that called ‘Little Marrakesh’, often doesn’t do it justice: it is a place in its own right. Hidden by magnificent red-mud the walls and with the snowcapped peaks of Taroudannt High beyond, Atlas beckoning it is about it. Yet mystery of has a touch town where also a practical place, a market and Berbers the rich trade the produce of Souss Valley. fertile stroll and linger. it is a place to Instead, well worth a browse, The town’s souqs are but with than Marrakesh, laid-back more in activity that is missing of an atmosphere – many people come on a day trip Agadir also makes (it is only 80km). Taroudannt in interested an excellent base for travellers western up into the little-explored trekking ). p445 High Atlas (see ), p336 road (see n’Test turning for the Tizi the most spectacular perilous and one of passes in the country, leading you across the High Atlas and on to Marrakesh. TAROUDANNT TAROUDANNT pop 70,000

A very unreliable local bus runs from Aga- unreliable A very dir bus station to Immouzzer (Dh30, three it doesn’t but unfortunately run if hours), not enough Also, you’ll people. are there following morning to wait until the have op- A better bus back. for the unreliable a grand taxi (Dh35), tion would be to share day. is market which easiest on Thursday, in Agadir agencies and travel hotels Many to Immouzzer. tours coach offer Getting There & Away Getting There & Away perched high above the valley, the hotel is is the hotel the valley, highperched above almond and set garden of a riotous amid and courts tennis are and there apple trees (set Dh150) with menu a good restaurant floors, built on three is The hotel a terrace. the on (the best ones are rooms the large terrace with a west-facing 3rd floor) come through A path leads down or balcony. the cascades and there’s to groves olive around – ask in the other excellent walking for suggestions. hotel lonelyplanet.com THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA 388 Taroudannt 0 400 m 0 0.2 miles

TAROUDANNT THESOUSSVALLEY ••Taroudannt

Bab al-Khemis To Freija (8km); Tioute (36km); Oued Berhil (43km); Taliouine (199km); Marrakesh (220km); Ouarzazate (300km)

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Les Amis (500m); Place al- i 31 d Tichka Plateau (50km) i EATING Alaouyine S

(Place Assarag) e Cheap Snack Stalls...... 17 C3 i

t i r Cheap Snack Stalls...... 18 C2 Mosque Mosque Bab Hé 29 1 Chez Nada...... 19 C2 Taghount Mosque e 24 c

n Av i Fruit & Vegetable Market...... 20 C2 e Mohamm 4 Grande r ed 5 P V 3 Mosquée e INFORMATION Jnane Soussia...... 21 C4 9 14 25 v 8 A Banque Populaire...... 1 C3 Mehdi Snack...... 22 C2 12 Banque Populaire (ATM)...... 2 E2 Place an-Nasr BMCE (ATM)...... 3 C3 DRINKING 17 (Place Talmoqlate) BMCI (ATM)...... 4 C3 Jus al Boustane...... 23 C2 Club Roudana...... 5 C3 26 S har ia a Hospital...... 6 D2 SHOPPING l-Ma ha nsour ad-Da Main Post Office...... 7 E2 Antiquaire Haut-Atlas...... 24 C3 Night Pharmacy...... 8 C3 Galerie du Sud...... (see 25) Wafanet...... 9 B3 Souq Arabe...... 25 C3 Souq Berbere...... 26 C3

Bab lonelyplanet.com Zorgane SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Bab el-Kasbah...... 10 D2 TRANSPORT 27 Bab Sedra...... 11 D2 Bus Station...... 27 D4 Calèches...... 28 D2 SLEEPING CTM Office...... 29 B3 21 Hôtel el-Warda...... 12 C3 Grands Taxis...... (see 27) Hôtel Palais Salam...... 13 E2 Tinghir Cars...... 30 C2 To Agadir To Dar Zitoune (2km); Hôtel Taroudannt...... 14 B3 Tioute Cars...... 31 D3 (80km) Restaurant Vala (2km) THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA

) 389 s The Tarou- 066 637972). x If only there were were If only there bookings 1239 710814, 0044 028 854576; www.kasabat 028 852501; www.palaisalam 028 852416; Ave Mohammed V Mohammed 028 852416; Ave x ( x x

( ( x

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A wonderful new addition to A wonderful new addition to ). Naturally Morocco Guest House: CentreNaturally Morocco Guest House: Cul- THE SOUSS VALLEY •• Taroudannt Taroudannt •• VALLEY SOUSS THE Hôtel Palais Salam Hôtel Salam Palais Kasabat Annour Hôtel Taroudannt dannt is faded, the en-suite rooms, though rooms, the en-suite dannt is faded, seen its bar can days and better clean, have rowdy. And yet its jungle-style court- get have public areas yard and faintly colonial the bar closes – and a unique atmosphere (menu is a good restaurant early. There in treks great Dh70) and they can organise the surrounding mountains with the excel- ( lent guide El Aouad Ali .com; kasbah; from Dh692/934; s/d incl breakfast more places like this, a medina house run by places like more glimpse into Moroc- a rare locals offering Run in conjunction with UK-based can life. to sustainableNaturally Morocco, dedicated ex- tourism and cultural contact, they offer guides, exciting cul- led by skilled cursions tural experiences and delicious Moroccan meals. Sunday night dinner is followed by Berber dancing. Staff music and can arrange flora and fauna, if on birdwatching, ecotours another group. they don’t have Taroudannt, built around a former colo- built Taroudannt, nel’s house in the medina, right up against six elegant the kasbah walls. It features and spacious rooms around a good-sized swimming pool, and meals, hammam and There on request. available are treatments asi This former pasha’s residence should be the This former pasha’s residence in town, but is sadly best hotel dilapidated, the staff demoralised and the exotic garden in the old wing are built on. Rooms overly or at least a refitting but in need of large, rooms, thorough clean. Newly refurbished due were equipped, a little bland but better our visit. to open soon after MIDRANGE & TOP END MIDRANGE & TOP END o bathroom, a couple of salons, a terrace and salons, a terrace of a couple bathroom, this make owner’s enthusiasm all the above It’s a short walk guest house recommended. and less has- quieter the medina, but out of sled for that. turel & Environmental 028 551628/067 297438; www.naturallymorocco.co.uk; 422 028 551628/067 297438; www.naturallymorocco.co.uk; Dh410, ‘Real per person half-board Derb Afferdou; Morocco’ package per person 1 week Dh3500). All told, this remains the best budget hotel hotel best budget the All told, this remains in town. & Place al-Alaouyine; s/d/tr Dh140/160/200) & Place al-Alaouyine; annour.com; kasbah;annour.com; Dh880/1320; s/d incl breakfast

, calèche 068 395696; per 067 601686; Sidi Bab el-Kasbah , (cyclists and x ( x

( (for details of treks treks (for details of surrounding Tarou- surrounding Bab Sedra 028 852763; Place an-Nasr; s/d Simple but quite large large Simple but quite (tilework) terrace over- (tilework) terrace x (

ramparts zellij will take you for a fascinating will take Tichka Plateau This is the best of the ultra-cheapies, the ultra-cheapies, This is the best of

Taroudannt is a great base for trekking base for trekking is a great Taroudannt Hôtel el-Warda Built in the 16th and 17th century, a stringBuilt in the 16th and 17th

Chambres d’Hotes Les Amis pedestrians only) leading to the old kasbahpedestrians only) leading Ismail built by Moulay a fortress quarter, gov- town. The part of and now the poorest kasbah, now formsernor’s palace, also in the ). right Salam ( Palais the Hôtel part of Belkass; s/d Dh80/150) here see p435 ) is a delightful meadow of ) is a delightful meadow of p435 see here Sev- and hidden gorges. springtime flowers but we treks, in town offer eral agencies only you insist on travelling recommend with a qualified guide. guided bike tour around the walls and city guided bike (mainly in French). and the Highin the western Atlas region, secluded

BUDGET around Place al- hotels Most budget basic accommodation and Alaouyine offer good for sunbathing and terraces, roof people-watching. Sleeping

Activities Ballade Roudana des Remparts Sights Sights of The 7.5km Booklonelyplanet.com stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at dannt are among the best-preserved among dannt are pisé colour changes Their walls in Morocco. depend- brown to deepestfrom golden red They can easily be day. time of ing on the in preferably (two hours) on foot explored or a bike a or take afternoon, the late (see p391 ) and see) and the walls by moonlight. p391 (see of the gates create towers mighty defensive of used the most commonly of the city. One of is the triple-arched these gates approached via an avenue of orange trees. trees. orange of via an avenue approached on the right past an olive Through here, is another gate, press, Dh50/70) hr Dh30 plus tip) whitewashed rooms with patterned tiled tiled rooms with patterned whitewashed communal a large and bedspreads, floors with a funky looking Place an-Nasr. The rooms are basic – The rooms are looking Place an-Nasr. – and toilets a bed and washbasin you get It is run by communal. are and showers women, but single women might find the in the alley entrance and all-male clientele café difficult. THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA menu Dh70; of thebestintown(menuDh150). there isahammam.Therestaurant isone fireplaces. Thepoolisheated inwinter and enormous andwellpriced,withworking Suitesfacilities oneexpectsatthislevel. are ply furnishedinlocalstyle,butwithallthe filled garden,theroomsare large andsim- ofa series bungalowsinagorgeous fruit- courses fromDh110; ordered acoupleof hours ahead. and couscous(Dh60toDh95)should be is homecookingandexcellent. race withgreat viewsover thegardens.Food and maindiningroomonthe1st-floor ter- There’s amale-dominated cafédownstairs, value tajines, includingonewithpigeon. place, famousforitsexcellentandgood- Kasbah, thisisaquietmodernfamily-run specialities are amouth-watering garden adjacenttotheramparts.Thehouse areas aroundalargeseating set poolina Zorgane,short walkfromBab withtented h is around Placean-Nasr and northalong The best placetolookfor cheap eateries QUICK EATS Chez Nada RESTAURANTS (Dh75). salad offer good-value menusof set couscousand are goodplaces tohave breakfast, andalso The hotel terraces onPlaceal-Alaouyine Eating facilities. have water plumbedin,sohave separate into thecitywallswhich cannot,bylaw, are alsoacoupleof cheaper roomsbuilt 390 or ahead toordercouscous(Dh80 Dh150) is packed withfamiliesonweekends. Call local businessmenandbureaucrats, and good, solidfoodto this restaurant serves this. Inavillalocated 2kmfromthecentre, get more contemporary Moroccanthan s/d/ste inclbreakfast Dh900/1200/1540; everything hereeverything isgood. which have tobeordered inadvance,but (whole roastlamb)andpigeon Jnane Soussia Dar Zitoune Restaurant Vala Restaurant pastilla dinner; THESOUSSVALLEY ••Taroudannt as h

(Dh120toDh150). ( x lunch &dinner;

( x 028 851726;Ave set MoulayRachid;

h )

( ( A x x 028 551141; www.darzitoune.com; 028 551141;www.darzitoune.com; lunch &dinner)

delightful restaurant,delightful a 028 854980;setmenuDh75; 028 850249;Km2,National10;3 a ) West of al- Bab Youcouldn’t asi Pastilla mechoui pastilla (pie) ) In ,

16 SoukelKaraza) Place al-Alaouyine) 45; salads andfriedsardines. salads this isagoodsnackbarwithcheap burgers, family, Chez Nada,andrunbythesame antique pottery. At carpets,fabulousjewelleryand well-chosen top-quality objects, withahuge collectionof out forthe venir shopshiddeninthequietstreets. Look of Placeal-Alaouyine, hasantiqueandsou- tery andbaskets. Themain Souq Berbère medina.pleasant Southof Placean-Nasr,the of thecommunityuntillate 1960s. silversmiths, whoformedasignificantpart enced bothbySaharantribesandJewish tribe isrenowned. Thejewelleryisinflu- good-quality silver jewellery forwhich this Souss, soitisagoodplacetolookforthe Taroudannt cityof isthecentralChleuh the Shopping Jus alBoustane Drinking Zaran. ble market souqs, there’s adedicated in Taroudannt. inthe Inadditiontostalls Putting together apicnicisnotproblem SELF-CATERING tajine, Ave where youfindtheusual BirZaran, outside Bab Zorgane.outside Bab leaveAll buses fromthemainbusstation BUS &Away There Getting 61 SouqelKabir) med V. with fresh juiceneartheLycéeMoham- this isagoodplacetostockuponvitamins cheerful chap surrounded bypilesof fruit, from thewholeregion. bringsinpeople al-Khemis, outside Bab made outof recycled bike tyres. his strikingpaintingsmounted inframes sandwiches andsimplegrills. sandwiches eral placesaroundPlaceal-Alaouyine serve Bab TaghountBab istheeasiestwayinto A large souqonSunday morning, just Mehdi Snack Mehdi h lunch &earlyevening) harira atthenorthernendof Ave Bir hasfresh vegetables, spices,pot- Antiquaire Haut-Atlas Antiquaire , themostreputable dealerin artist Amahou Mohamed sells artistAmahouMohamed sells (lentil soup) and salads. Sev- (lentilsoup)andsalads.

(off Ave setmenuDh25- MoulayRachid; (Ave BirZaran;juiceDh5) has themost reliable buses, Galerie duSud Galerie Located justbehind CTM

fruit andvegeta- lonelyplanet.com Souq Arabe (Hotel Les Arcades,

( ( x x Runbya 028 852145; 028 852145; 077 608260; 077 608260; , east , east THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA

391 (see p445 ), p445 (see Right next to Right next to 028 534125; fax 028 028 534125; fax 028 ) 028 534075; souktana@ x ( Jebel Siroua x

( /fax 028 534046, 068 394223; /fax 028 534046, 068 394223; as

A small family-run au- x (

, behind the kasbah. , behind the THE SOUSS VALLEY •• Taliouine Taliouine •• VALLEY SOUSS THE souq Auberge Souktana Auberge Souktana Taliouine is becoming a popular trekking becoming a popular trekking is Taliouine The village comes to life during the Mon- during the to life comes The village Hotel Ibn Toumerte The N10 road east from Taroudannt east from Taroudannt The N10 road the kasbah, a bunkerlike 1970s hotel has has 1970s hotel the kasbah, a bunkerlike some stun- but does have little character decor, small though comfortable ning retro pool and the views, a neglected rooms, great cost Dh169. Meals town’s only bar. Closer to the centre and currently the best and currently Closer to the centre en- simple but pretty the five in the village, in bright colours. decorated rooms are suite particularly spacious are The family suites views. They has great terrace and the roof harvest their own saffron, they sell which and use in the delicious cooking (meals of a range from Dh80). They also organise into the mountains. treks Getting There & Away both from Buses pass through Taliouine (Dh30), but and Taroudannt Ouarzazate Your not always seats available. are there is to wait at the main bus stop in best chance town. Grands taxishead west to Oued Ber- for Taroudannt, you can change hil, where centre for the nearby for the centre day Sleeping Auberge le Safran also sells top-quality spice. Saffron here also sells Saffron spice. top-quality here per gram. around Dh30 costs s/d room with shower Dh180/220, bungalow menara.ma Dh100/160, tent Dh50/80) berge, the former Youth Hostel, 1km east of 1km east of the former Youth Hostel, berge, on the main road, with recently the village modernised rooms, four small bungalows The multi- with basin and space for tents. information a wealth of lingual hosts have experience at great and have on the region, Reservations Siroua treks. are running Jebel season.essential in trekking 534126; s/d Dh445/538; www.auberge-safran.com, d/tr/q Dh170/200/280) in French; to Taliouine is less dramatic than the Tizi dramatic than the Tizi is less to Taliouine if a good alternative but provides n’Test, The road heading to Ouarzazate. you are crosses a beautiful Taliouine north of and immense landscape, to join the main road near the turn- Marrakesh–Ouarzazate offto Aït Benhaddou. which offers some of the finest walking in the finest of some offers which the Anti Atlas.

. The (Ave Prince (Ave

calèche 028 850810; Ave 028 850810; Ave , near Place , near Place x (

Tioute CarsTioute has a small mu- ﺗﺎﻟﻮﻳﻦ and 012 987351) hire out small cars from out small cars hire x ( Tinghir Cars Tinghir

from which it comes flow- from which Coopérative Souktana du Safran Coopérative Souktana du Safran gather just inside Bab al-Kasbah, gather just inside Bab al-Kasbah,

068 395215; www.safran-souktana.mezgarne.com; 068 395215; www.safran-souktana.mezgarne.com; 7.30am-1.30pm & 2-8pm) Bab Tamaklat Taliouine is the centre for saffron, centre is the the Taliouine Other companies run servicesOther companies through-

x Moulay Rachid Ferk Lahbab)Moulay Rachid Ferk seum, saffron you tasting and shop, where weighed in need to insist that bags are ) right (see le Safran you. Auberge front of h ( Talmoqlate.

ers between October and Novem- late ers is held to celebrate ber, when a festival the harvest. TALIOUINE TALIOUINE half- Taliouine, The straggling of village and Ouarzazate, way between Taroudannt by hills and the impressive is dominated fast, but Glaoui kasbah. It is disintegrating by descend- the best part is still inhabited the Glaoui’s servants.ants of A caretaker can show you around. spice in the world, which most expensive land. The band of narrow grows in a very crocus sativus,

You can tour the ramparts in a Getting Around Getting Around Taroudannt’s grands taxis also gather at Taroudannt’s The the bus station Bab outside Zorgane. (Dh23), and Inezgane main destinations are and Marrakesh (Dh28) sometimes Agadir (Dh130). TAXI TAXI Local agencies Local agencies CAR Héritier Sidi Mohammed) on Place al-Alaouyine and other promi- on Place al-Alaouyine nent spots. A one-way trip around town costs Dh15 to Dh20, while one-hour tours on your bar- depending Dh50 or more are is also a good gaining skills. Taroudannt can be rented bikes place to cycle: reliable at with one departure per day for Casablancaper day for departure with one (Dh90, via Marrakesh 10 hours) (Dh150, six hours). to both theseout the day well as cities as Inezgane (Dh30, 2½ hours), to Agadir (Dh80, and Ouarzazate hours) (Dh15, 2½ (Dh50, one bus to Tata There’s hours). five hours). five calèches Booklonelyplanet.com stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at Dh300 per day. THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA Tiznit Mirleft oroneof towns. theothercoastal oronaday-tripfrom on yourwaythrough Good foravisit,butTiznit ismostoften seen townsandtheAntiAtlas. thecoastal tween the provincial acentralpointbe- capital, It quicklybecameatradecentre andremains the 19thcenturybysome5kmof piséwall. cluster of kasbahs, which were encircledin Itwasoriginallythesitedevelopment. of a walled medinatownsurroundedbymodern western end of theAntiAtlas, Tiznit isanold South of theSoussValley andbeyondthe pop 53,600 TIZNIT can change forOuarzazate (Dh27). and easttoTazenakht (Dh20),where you 392 Sidi Ifni(75km) To Mirleft(40km); (15km) Plage To Aglou 4 1 3 2 TIZNIT 20 THESOUSSVALLEY ••Tiznit Bab Aglou (Bab El-Aouina)

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I I Khemis Bab el- veil. nickname foralwayswearinghisSaharawi from theWestern Sahara,whoearnedhis led byEl-Hiba,theso-called‘BlueSultan’ tectorate. Thisresistance movement was Morocco intoaFrench andSpanishpro- resistance tothe1912treaty thatturned for In1912,itwasabase local sedition. reputation asacentre forsilver. were moved intothetownandgave ita town’s perimeter walls.Jewish silversmiths tribes of thesouth.Todothis,hebuilt hisauthorityoversert therebellious Berber Tiznit94) chose fromwhich toas- asabase Moulay In 1881Sultan Al-Hassan (1873– History 8 However, TiznitHowever, remained embroiledin 9 Jarrar Oulad Bab 21 400 m 0.2miles 0 0 7 Bab elMaader To Goulmime Bab el- Jedid (110km) 6 (100m) Post Office...... BMCE (ATM)...... Grands TaxistoAgadir,SidiIfni, TRANSPORT SHOPPING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Hôtel desTouristes...... Source Bleue...... Grande Mosquée...... Bab Targua...... Main PostOffice...... Main BusStation...... Grands TaxistoAglouPlage.... Mirleft&Tafraoute...... CTM Office...... Trésor duSud...... Jewellery Souq...... Ensemble Artisanal...... Snack Stands...... Idou TiznitSupermarket...... Food Market...... Café RestaurantHoteldeParis...(see9) Café LaVilleNouvelle...... Hôtel deParis...... BMCI (ATM)...... Banque Populaire(ATM)...... Grands TaxistoGoulmime...... Thursday To Agadir Souq (90km) lonelyplanet.com D Maader Bab el- 22 To Tafraoute 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 (107km) 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 9 D4 C4 A2 A4 B3 B1 A3 A4 B3 A3 A4 A3 A3 C4 C2 C2 C1 B2 A4 A3 A4 A3 THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA , 393 Hotel Hotel ) Bab Targua On a busy On a busy ) si a 028 862018; Place al- x 028 864252; www.bab-el ( (Ave du 20 Août; mains Dh35- (Ave An attractive restau- An attractive

028 862865; www.hoteldeparis x Budget doesn’t have to to doesn’tBudget have ( x where there is another is another there where (

THE SOUSS VALLEY •• Tiznit Tiznit •• VALLEY SOUSS THE lunch & early dinner) palmeraie, h Bab el Maader Hôtel de Paris Café La Ville Nouvelle Hôtel des Touristes It’s possible to climb onto sections of to climb onto sectionsIt’s possible of for instance, you get a great view over the the view over a great for instance, you get lush natural spring, used a laundry by local as women. Méchouar; s/d Dh50/90) rant serving the classic salads, brochettes Idou Tiznit, across from Hôtel de Paris, is de Paris, across from Hôtel Idou Tiznit, in town, with a pool the most expensive and vast marble lobby, but this is Tiznit’s guest house with a a five-room best address, touches decorative great courtyard, plenty of Moroccan fabrics and ma- and good use of will arrange owners The laid-back terials. or lunch Home-cooked trips in the region. (Dh110). on request dinner is available roundabout a short walk from the old walls, colour has some questionable the hotel but en-suite (pink and orange?), schemes bright, spacious and well run. rooms are mean slummy, as this spotless, welcoming mean slummy, as this Rooms the Place shows. place at the end of in Moroccan style, simple, decorated are The pious and hot. free are and showers for it is safe staff serious and ensure are women travellers. -maader.com; Rue El Haj Ali; r Dh220-275; -maader.com; 55; Eating on the main hotels the budget Most of food, the Hôtel cafés offering have square on the most popular Atlas being one of snack A number of the Place al-Méchouar. accept- offer stands along Rue Bain Maure able sandwiches for around Dh10. the 5km-long city walls, which have 29 29 have city walls, which the 5km-long From and nine gates. towers Sleeping right on Place al- are hotels budget Many but lone women may find the Méchouar, a bit off-puttingarea at night. late She spent the next three days repenting her days repenting three the next spent She impressed was so ways and God wicked with her fervour he showed forgiveness that beneath her feet. spring gush a by having that to the village name was thus given Her 19th- Sultan Moulay al-Hassan’s preceded town. century fortress .ma; Ave Hassan II; s/d Dh138/164; .ma; Ave (Ave (Ave

and a (Great (Great (Ave Mohammed (Ave

, the original , the original BMCE Banque Populaire (Ave du 20 Août) (Ave

Grande Mosquée and Source Bleue post office

all of which have ATMs. have which all of

, (Ave du 20 Août) (Ave main

BMCI

The minaret of the of The minaret Nearby is the Midrange to top-end hotels can be found to top-end hotels Midrange The

Following Sultan Moulay Hafid’s capitu- SultanFollowing Hafid’s Moulay , town spring, now a stagnant shallow pool, Legend has it that a rather than blue. green Lalla Zninia, stopped ill repute, woman of at what was then plain desert. here to rest smaller branch in the medina are open the in the medina are smaller branch usual hours.

Tiznit is a sleepy place with a medina that is Tiznit a fun place to wander around and with an equally sleepy jewellery souq. The Berber tough salesmen, but it is are here traders Things a bargain. still worth trying to strike which on Thursday, up considerably liven day. is market Mosque; closed to non-Muslims) is studded with jutting wooden sticks. Local legend the dead the souls of this is where suggests left in these are likely, More congregate. place by the masons who built the mina- A replaster. to help them climb up and ret in is usedsimilar arrangement on minarets the Sahara, notably in Timbuktu. south of Sights & Activities Sights & Activities

Banks in Tiznit include include Banks in Tiznit Information

to the south of the medina. to the south of du 20 Août) Orientation is al-Méchouar Within the medina, Place souq and you’ll find the jewellery where Bab the main gate, Outside hotels. cheap is the main grand-taxiMéchouar, rank, the a and main post office, restaurants banks, food market. Booklonelyplanet.com stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at V) lation to the French at the Treaty of Fés, El- of the Treaty at to the French lation himselfHiba proclaimed sultan at Tiznit’s rose1912. The southern tribes mosque in north and El-Hiba marched to support him from the men of an army of at the head were Atlas tribes. They and Anti Tuareg but in Marrakesh liberators welcomed as by the the army was slaughtered of much El-Hiba towards Fez. as it moved French then Tiznit, then to Taroudannt, retreated a he pursued where up into the Anti Atlas, against the French resistance campaign of until his death in 1919. THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA the cheapest, butthework is good;they arangesells of localandimported food. permarket around andbargain toget thebestprices. timetolook in thesouth.You willneed in Tiznit, fromSaharantribes somebought the south.Someof thisjewelleryismade jewellery souq With itslonghistoryof silversmiths, the Shopping café isgoodforcoffee andpastries. and couscous,whilethepopulardownstairs 394 862885; www.tresordusud.com; 27 Babal-Khemis) the can dampenthepleasure. TheloudTV ing almondduringtheseason. fish andmeatdishes,fresh juices,includ- range of large (Dh12toDh30),simple salads apredominantly French serve menu,witha dining room,where, truetotheirname,they fashioned andcorrect tiled aboutthebright, & dinner) Avewww.hoteldeparis.ma; HassanII;mainsDh40-50; Away fromthesouq, deParis Hôtel Café-Restaurant If youwantfoodforapicnic,head poking fingersintotheevileyewithwords poking power anddominance)orofthenumberfive isbelieved tohave thesameeffect asmetaphorically daughter ofthehand(whichrepresents oftheProphetMohammed.Anydepiction humancreative have supernaturalpowers. AcommonsymboltowardofftheevileyeishandofFatima, the symbolise fertility. amazonite andshellstradedfromEastAfrica andcarnelianstonesare usedindiviningfortunes; wealth andtoprotect againstsorcery(it’salsoconsidered anaphrodisiacandacure forcolds); andisthoughttohavecoral symbolisesfertility curative powers;amberisworn asasymbolof Silver isbelievedthe evileye,disease,accidentsanddifficultiesinchildbirth. tocure rheumatism; necklaces containcharmsboughtfrommagicians orholymen,whichoffer protection against grimages andfunerals. will bewornevery day,others–thefinestwillbesaved foroccasionssuchasfestivals, pil- often triangular,usedforfastening garments),anklets,earringsandheaddresses. Somepieces and WestAfrican ebonybeads. Awomanwillalsohave bracelets, oasis valleyssometimesfeaturing talismansofsilver, pinkcoral,amazonite, amber,Czech glass as goldisconsidered thetraditional assemblageinthesouthern evil.Necklacesare important, by herasdowryandaddedtothroughoutlife. This jewellery willalwaysbemadeofsilver, husband willcommissionhismotherorsister toprovide jewelleryforherandthesewillbekept traditions andithaspowerbeyondthevisual,toprotect herfromtheevileye. wears identifiesherasamemberofclanortribe,itissignwealth,reflects cultural Berber amuchwiderpurposethansimpleadornment.The jewelleryawomanjewellery serves BEYOND THEGLITTER THESOUSSVALLEY ••Tiznit market Talismans feature stylisedmotifs ofanimals,sun,moonandstars,allwhichare believed to The protective, ofjewellery are The medicinalandmagical extremely properties important. A womanwillreceive jewelleryfromhermotheruntilshemarries. Forhermarriage,future There issomethingwonderfullyold-

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x (Ave du20Août) hassomeof thebestworkin 028 602397;Carrefour deTiznit) ,

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( Idou Tiznit Su- x 028 862865; 028 862865;

, which h ( isnot x lunch lunch 028 khamsa fiainek Tata (Dh80, 6½hours). hours), Tafraoute (Dh35, fourhours) and above destinations plusSidiIfni(Dh25,1½ acraftsmanatwork. can see only dealinhallmarked solidsilver andyou Tafraoute (Dh40)leave from themain (Dh16), Agadir (Dh25)andoccasionally toSidiIfni(Dh23),MirleftGrands taxis TAXI (Dh340). (Dh190)andDakhla Laâyoune south toGoulimime(Dh35),Tan Tan (Dh75), hours, onedaily)andatwice-daily service 10 hours, onedaily),Marrakesh (Dh120,five (Dh220, two hours, onedaily),Casablanca forAgadirin town.CTM hasbuses (Dh40, from theCTM onPlaceal-Mechouar office day souq.CTM tickets are alsoavailable just offtheTafraoute road,pasttheThurs- leaveAll buses fromthemainbusstation BUS &Away There Getting 1pm &2.30-8.30pm) fice, covers thefullrange of localcrafts. Other companies run daily buses to the Other companiesrundailybuses The Ensemble Artisanal (five inyoureye). , opposite themainpostof- fibulas (elaborate brooches,

(Ave du20Août; lonelyplanet.com h 8.30am- THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA

395 ma- Created Created 077 756548; Mirleft Ride x ( 028 710304, 072 028 710304, 072

028 719402, 061 028 719402, 061 x ( x (

runs surf schools runs surf schools

This gorgeous blue- This gorgeous runs a range of quad of runs a range wi-fi) 071 668505; www.nidaigle.com) 028 719309; www.atlas-mirleft.com, i x ( Anzid Quad Evasion x

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Hôtel Resto Abertih ’s (saint’s) tomb and savage-looking ’s (saint’s) tomb and savage-looking 061 441933; mirleftride.net) In the same vein – and the same In the same family vein THE SOUSS VALLEY •• Around Tiznit Tiznit Around •• VALLEY SOUSS THE ) Sally’s Bed & Breakfast Out of the village there are plenty of ac- plenty of are there the village Out of Hôtel Atlas x and organises both fishing trips and treks trips and treks both fishing and organises into the hills. 225872; www.abertih.com; r per person with shared/private bathroom Dh100/150; Englishwoman, a gor- by a horse-loving the cliff of above villa on the edge geous Beach, a home-stay Tourga Sally’s offers bathroom, and rooms with private five feel, Sally can arrange with Jacuzzi. a sun terrace horse treks. is the place for hang-gliding. is the place for hang-gliding. as Hotel Resto Abertih – is Hotel Atlas, with – is Hotel Resto Abertih as Hotel balcony – fantas- streetside 1st-floor a great tic in the early evenings. Vibrant aquama- rines, yellows, terracottas and blues splash is colour throughout the 17 rooms. There and cush- with sofas terrace roof also a huge ions for summertime barbecues and music. on request. usually only available are Meals tours into the surrounding country. tours in French; r per person without/with shower Dh120/150; in French; i tivities to keep you busy. The beach is good you busy. The beach tivities to keep will and hotels for surf casting (fishing) to desert trips from fishing help organise a head for heights, If you have excursions. Le Nid d’Aigle ( Sleeping o ing Beach, Beach, Coquillage Aftas Beach, Beach, and Marabout’s the Sauvage Plage its most dramatic with last being the rabout a walk then back to town for rocks. And you can where main street along a short an argan hall, arts and crafts, find a billiards restau- cafés, phone booths, product store, market. small vegetable rants and a www.anzidquadevasion.com) and-yellow cubist guest house has 11 rooms in simple fabrics and strong decorated around upper and is scattered colours, Belowterraces. is an atmospheric bar- there the local hang-out of a favourite restaurant, the amiable expat community and where proprietor holds court. The menu French (Dh80) is simple and delicious: grilled fish, some Moroccan standards, apple tart and on request. lobster 469888; www.sallymirleft.com; d from Dh660) Le Le ﺍﻛﻠﻮ

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Idou Aglou the local plaster-work.

an offshoot of the Tiznit hotel, which which hotel, Tiznit the an offshoot of tadelakt, If at first the place seemsIf at first uninspiring, the Goulmime-bound grands taxis grands (Dh35) Goulmime-bound

Grands taxis come out here from Tiznit from Tiznit Grands taxis come out here

Dh50) gentle bustle soon becomes contagious. A gentle is followed by a trip to social morning coffee – choose from Fish Beach,the beach Camp- pop 6500 the most beautiful roads in the re- One of with won- Plage, Aglou gion runs south of hills and the ocean, rugged derful views of Then comes the occasional empty cove. 140km Tiznit, southwest of Mirleft, 38km least the region’s and one of from Agadir, ex- attractions. That, perhaps, promoted popular with artists, plains why it remains from some musicians and people returning serious desert bashing, as well as Marrak- shis wanting to hide away from the world. the air clear and the is gentle, The climate un- views magnificent. Mirleft is no longer and ATM) – it has a bank (with touched most tourism de- post office – but unlike all this is the doing in Morocco, velopment corporation individuals, with not a large of in sight. hotel or chain MIRLEFT

Aglou Plage, 15km from Tiznit, is a long 15km from Tiznit, Plage, Aglou the strong under- with good surf, but beach for swimming most dangerous it tow makes When Atlantic winds start the time. blus- of place. it’s a wild and woolly sort of tering, undeveloped, with a raised It is still pretty some seafrontwalkway and behind it cafés, the best being AROUND TIZNIT AROUND TIZNIT Aglou Plage grand-taxi post office the in opposite rank, town. part of the western Idou the Hôtel wait at a stand just south of (Dh5) Plage For Aglou roundabout. Tiznit II. Hassan from Ave they leave Booklonelyplanet.com stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at lightful French-Moroccan-run guest house lightful French-Moroccan-run A rust-red beach. Aglou at the south end of house, some fantasy and a dramatic tents, and sea, ex- beach the they also offer view of and a weeklong course in the area cursions in (Dh5). serves snacks (sandwiches and a full Dh15) menu. If you want to stay, restaurant Chant du Chameau chameau.com; half-board per person Dh385) chameau.com; half-board per THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA chicken livers. Dh85; better valuethanthesmallrooms. here fordowntime. Unusually, thesuites are you unwind.NowonderMarrakshis come relaxed andthewholeplacedesignedtohelp roundings, thepoolisheated, therestaurant urnsmakecotta forsubduedandrelaxed sur- beyond.Whitewashed woodandterra- sea with fabulousviewsover thevillage tothe Mirleft’s bestaddress, alovely guesthouse the hill,inarenovated fort,is 1930smilitary .com; d/stehalf-boardDh750/1000; war of 1859. Theychristened their newpos- they defeated theMoroccan forcesinthe Spain acquired theenclave of SidiIfniafter History surfing andparagliding. and itisanincreasingly for popularbase life attractsasurprisingnumber of visitors, in character. Thetown’sunhurriedpaceof (streets) are Spanish stillquintessentially 1969, thesplendidesplanadeand Spanish mainland. tions andlater alarge exporter of fishtothe forslave-tradingwas onceabase opera- of whatwasthe of Spanishimperialambitions.At theheart in JulyandAugust,isahauntingreminder chitecture, often shroudedinAtlanticmists its fabulousdecayingSpanishart-decoar- emptyoutpostofThe eerily Sidi Ifni, with pop 20,600 SIDI IFNI daily bustoAgadir (Dh30). and SidiIfnistopinMirleft.There’s alsoa Tiznit between andgrandstaxis Local buses &Away There Getting street, fresh fishthat enduphere. Onthesouq upsomeof thetonnesof caught street serve above hotels, anumberof cafésonthemain Apart fromexcellentrestaurants atthe Eating 396 Restaurant Tikiout Restaurant and grilledfish. Thenewcomerintown, de chevre classicFrench dishessuch as serves is runbyaformerchef fromAgadir and Les 3Chameaux Returned toMoroccancontrolonly in THESOUSSVALLEY ••SidiIfni h Restaurant Ayour Restaurant lunch &dinner) (goat-cheese salad) (goat-cheese

( Spanish Sahara,SidiIfni x ( x serves reliable tajines serves 028 719187;www.3chameaux 028 719463;mainstreet)

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streets eastof PlaceHassan II. also somefunkyart-decoarchitecture inthe retariat (nexttoHôtel Suerte Loca).There’s astheSpanish Naval Sec- which served cliff, house intheformofaship Place Hassan II,anearby nial eraincludethe (Ave MohammedV) Banque Populaire Information with afestival ontheabandonedairfield. still celebrates ‘IndependenceDay’(30June) buried inthetownearly1900s.Ifni Cruz wasrenamed SidiIfni,after aholyman the enclave backtoMoroccoin1969.Santa UN-brokered agreement for Spaintocede endedwithaterritorial eventually rights was Spanish.Theprotracted dispute over that some60%of thetown’spopulation Spain refused towithdraw,citingthefact art-deco andtraditionalMoroccanstyles. 1930s andfeatures aneclecticmixof faded until 1934.Mostof SidiIfnidates fromthe with itastheydidnottake fullpossession tohave whattodo uncertain seem been CruzdelMar Santa session Pequeña, but fishing, most of thecatch beingsold inAga- onsmall-scale port: Ifni’s economyisbased not alwaysclean. Atthesouthendis hall, mostlyingrandart-decostyle. royal palace,Spanishconsulate andtown tion buildings:lawcourts(formerchurch), and surroundedbythemainadministra- a large square withasmallparkinthecentre paña), thecolonialcentrepiece consistingof Place HassanII one of themainattractions. At itsheartis ThesmalloldSpanishsettle. part of townis which haslured manyapassingforeigner to The real drawof Sidi Ifniisitsatmosphere, Sights &Activities and ATMs. Thenearby med V) med V) . com/ifnirocks. tion onthetown,check outwww.geocities Forinforma- corner fromthebusstands. Fabionet places,including net isavailable atseveral Mail/Ordinary) aswellanATM. Inter- ‘Correos –Avion/Ordinario’ (Post–Air The Other interesting remnants of thecolo- On Moroccan independencein1957, still hasaletterbox outsidemarked beach

(Ave MohammedV;perhrDh4) isbigandrarely busy,though (often stillcalledPlazadeEs- have currency exchange

(Ave MohammedV) Hôtel Bellevue Hôtel post office ontheedge of the lighthouse lonelyplanet.com , aroundthe and

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THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA

) i 397 C3 D3 D3 C4 20 21 22 23 24 To Mesti (20km); To Goulmime (50km) 23 To Legzira To Plage (10km); Tiznit (75km); Tiznit Mirleft (31km); Agadir (200km) 22 028 875350; fax 028 780003; 028 876718; www.maison 18 x x (

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Port (2km); Ave Sidi Mohammed Sidi Ave To Souq (1km); To 028 875072; Place Hassan II) Sidi Ouarsik (18km) 7 x ( Ocean Atlantic Xanadu...... Hôtel Bellevue...... (see 11) Hôtel Bellevue...... (see Town Hall...... Hôtel Bellevue...... Hôtel Suerte Loca...... Hôtel Ère Nouvelle...... Former Spanish Consulate...... B3 Law Courts (Former Church)...... Royal Palace...... Banque Populaire...... Lighthouse...... Ship House...... BMCE...... Fabionet...... Post Office...... SLEEPING INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Hospital Hôtel Ère Nouvelle SIDI IFNI SIDI located cheapie, the rooms are simple but the rooms are cheapie, located clean (go for the brighter top floor) with for renovation at the time of our visit. at the time of for renovation Mohammed ben Abdallah; s/d Dh30/50) Like the rest of Ifni, most of the hotels have have the hotels Ifni, most of of the rest Like seen days. The colonial-era better Sleeping levue dir. The odd construction just offshore is The odd construction just offshore dir. an old land-sea of conveyor the remains from ships to that was used cargo to take some excel- the old Spanish port. There’s ) p398 Loca Suerte – ask at Hôtel lent surfing here ) or Café Restaurant Nomad ( right ( for their recommendations. Sidi Ifni Booklonelyplanet.com stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA you wait,oraskthemabouttheregion. sip onamilkshake while orfruitcocktail great fishtajine (Dh60). Placeyourorder, they canalsocookupastorm,including musicians andgeneral good-timeguys– friends–artists, Run bytwomultitalented both forthefoodandatmosphere. remains Ifni’sall-roundtopdiningspot, Al Hourria; mainsDh30-40; Al Hourria; port. place 1kmoutof townontheroadto (Dh10, 30 minutes) andTiznit (Dh25,1½ 8½ hours, onedaily)both travel viaMirleft hours, onedaily)and Marrakesh (Dh130, forAgadir (Dh40,3½Fabionet. Services departfrom AveBuses Mohammed V,near &Away There Getting Ensemble Artisanal Crafts enthusiastsshoulddropin tothe Shopping Marrakesh) ( Moulay Youssef;mealsDh85; race ontheedge of apublicgarden. of fresh fish,acalmroominsideandter- dinner. French andMoroccanfood,plenty allday,frombreakfast (Dh20)to serves The Hourria,alsoknownasChezOmar, alcohol. restaurants belowserve coming inadvanceifpossible. Noneof the better foodintown–letthemknowyou’re dusk. Hôtel Suerte Locahassomeof the the southernendof Ave Mohammed Vat Ave Hassan upat set II,andsnackstands There are afew smallcafé-restaurants on Eating available ondemand(Dh110). Ifni. Children are welcome anddinneris 398 a covered Ave mainsDh40-60; MoulayAbdellah; themselves. themselves. tocoverourful fabricsSaharanwomenuse markets for fish. (Dh30) andicecream, in butspecialises arange of dishes,includingpizzas serves and overlooking theocean,Miramar Newly openedneartheHôtel Suerte Loca h For self-caterers there’sFor self-caterers abusy Café-Restaurant OceanMiramar Café-Restaurant elHourria Café-Restaurant Café-Restaurant Nomad Café-Restaurant THESOUSSVALLEY ••AroundSidiIfni 5-8pm) . OnSunday,alarge souqtakes in themunicipalmarket andalso fruit and vegetable market fruit andvegetable melhaf,

(Ave Hassan II). thevery fineandcol- h h breakfast, lunch&dinner)

( x lunch &dinner) ( x h 062 173308;5Ave Lookinthe

( 028 876343;Ave x lunch &dinner) fish market 028 876637;

(off Zankat (off Zankat This

ing orange andeuphorbia. some extraordinarylocalflavours, includ- the night. Ifitisopen, the night. simple rooms.Theneighbouring option,with20 the oldestandbestsleeping the Mesti theshopof turnoff, products fromtheversatile argan tree. At operative thatproducesoilandcosmetic during the weeklong during the weeklong onlygetNowadays youmight ataste of this guedra nings, womenperformed themesmerising souq.Intheeve- camelsatthe weekly sell tobuy and men’ cameinfromthedesert ( Legzira berge most of thisispristineand undeveloped. inahuddleneartheaccessroad,but houses arches andtwodramaticnatural lent sand Plage to Mirleft,ElGzira,usuallycalled Ouarsik pathsouthleadsto The 18kmcoastal be doneinthecountrysidearoundSidiIfni. onthemanywalksto All hotels will advise AROUND SIDIIFNI toAgadirtaxis (Dh50). Mirleft (Dh10).There are irregular grands (Dh23), Goulimime(Dh20),Tan Tan andto the northeastof thetownheadtoTiznit on Ave Hassan leaving I.Grandstaxis from Dh3 andleaves fromthelocalbusstation Plagehours). costs ThelocalbustoLegzira Souss traded with nomads from the south. Souss tradedwithnomadsfromthe south. border townwhere farmers fromthefertile lict Goulimime (orGuelmim)sprangupasa Once the‘Gateway of theSahara’,dustydere- pop 96,000 GOULIMIME ( 875510; menuDh35) h road. The stop, 25kmsouthof IfniontheGoulimime Plage.Goulimime stopsatLegzira Tiznit,bus thatrunsbetween SidiIfniand tajine (Dh80fortwopeople) a goodmealof fresh fish(fromDh60)or vary accordingtodemand.Bothwilloffer x x In itsheyday, Tuareg, theso-called‘blue Ten kilometres northof Ifni,ontheroad The Berber village of MestiThe Berber makes agood 7am-noon &2-6pmTue-Sat) 070 522800;s/dDh150/200) 067 166418) , is a superb secluded baywithexcel- , isasuperbsecluded reaching over There thesea. are afew , afishingvillage withagreat beach. dancetothesound of adrumbeat. Tafyoucht Cooperative

( x , ahoneycooperative, sells serves acheaper lunch. The serves /fax 028780457;s/dDh150/300) moussem Snack LesAmies issimilar. Prices is awomen’sco- lonelyplanet.com

and abedfor (festival) and

( x Miel Afoulki Miel Beach Club 028 867252;

( Legzira ﻛﺜﻠﻤﻴﻢ x stone Sidi Au- 028 is

THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA

399 Run ) i B1 C1 B1 B1 1 2 3 4 5 D Tiznit (107km); Agadir (186km) 028 872911; 3 Résidence Résidence 028 872911; 3 To Bus Station (400m); Hôtel Ijdiguem (400m); x ( 9am-noon & 2.30-6pm Mon-Fri)9am-noon & 2.30-6pm 072 130017; www.fortboujerif (Ave Youssef ibn Tachfine; per hr Youssef ibn Tachfine; (Ave

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0200 m 0200 0 0.1 miles Hôtel Salam...... (see 4) Post Office...... Tourist Office...... Food Stalls...... Anakhla Net...... B1 INFORMATION SLEEPING EATING Hôtel Salam...... Anakhla Net tourist office THE SOUSS VALLEY •• Goulimime Goulimime •• VALLEY SOUSS THE

. Built near a ruined French Foreign Foreign . Built near a ruined French Route d'Agadir Route 3 é , next to Hôtel Salam. , next to Hôtel arch Several access, in- internet places offer The Fort Bou-Jerif du M Rue .com; camp site Dh20 plus per person Dh30, r from Dh320, .com; camp site Dh20 plus per Dh340/440; half board per person motel/hotel Sahara, Route d’Agadir; cluding offers basic information on the town and information on the town basic offers south. trips further grand-taxi stations are about 1km north of of 1km north about grand-taxi stations are Abaynou. Ave along here Sleeping stayYou will only want to in Goulimime basic and some if necessary, are as hotels (full as they are will be tricky for women tradesmen). If you have trans-Saharan of accommodation is better transport, there outside town. wonderful oasis couple, this by a French civilisation in the desertof 40km is about is rough town (the last 9km northwest of piste) Legion of a range fort, this compound has sleeping options, from rooms in a motel Dh8)

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Goulimime Information town, of Place Bir Anazarane is the centre the post office, you’ll find and near here The main bus and banks and the internet. camel fair held here in July or August (the July or August in fair held here camel change). dates Goulimime as a border will still recognise see time, you will first town. For the Sa- is little But there the majority. harawis in stop, the only tourist sight to being reason the early-20th- ruins of the unremarkable Caid Dahman (admis- of century Palace de behind Hotel in the street sion free), What’s V. on Blvd Mohammed la Jeunesse aggres- of is an undercurrent there more, Tan as Tan such sion not found in places or Sidi Ifni. who descend for from Agadir, day-trippers kilome- souq, a few the Saturday-morning Tan. outside town on the road to Tan tres and some fruit there, is plenty of There but most day-trippers souvenirs, overpriced disappointed. sorely leave Booklonelyplanet.com stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA organises treks intheregion (Dh10).Thefriendlyowner by candlelight spotless, andyoucanhave ahotshower facilitiesare meals(Dh55).Bathroom set simple site, aswellarestaurant serving lies. There are bungalowroomsandacamp forfami- with atinyzooislittleparadise galow s/dDh150/200) Km 12Routed’Assa;campsiteDh50pluspertentDh25,bun- back) andcommunalshowers (Dh7). hotel hasclean,tiledrooms(quieter atthe thissimple the entrancetobusstation, s/d Dh75/150) southeast of town ontheRoute d’Asrir. toTighmertFor agrand taxi (Dh7), head oune (Dh130)from besidethebusstation. Tan (Dh40),Inezgane(Dh50)and Laây- (Dh8), SidiIfni(Dh20), Tiznit (Dh50),Tan You cancatch toAbaïnou grandstaxis TAXI CTM d’Agadir, a10-minute walkfromthecentre. Ave isoff The busstation Abaynou Route BUS &Away There Getting ( at The bestfoodintownisserved Eating stretch of beach 40kmwestof Bou-Jerif. Plage Blanche, a little-visited andunspoiled camel tajine. Theyalsooffer 4WDtripsto rant (menuDh175),where youcantrya spaces. There isalsoanexcellentrestau- and ahotel, tonomadtents andcamping 400 on PlaceBirAnzarane. meal costsDh85.Alcohol isavailable. where atraditionalthree-course Moroccan (Dh130). also have fourdailydepartures toMarrakesh to Agadir (Dh75)viaTiznit (Dh40).They Dh300)andfive north oune Dh140;Dakhla south (Tan Tan Dh45;Tarfaya Dh120;Laây- Supratours, whohave fourdailydepartures (Dh280, 15hours).hours) andDakhla (Dh142,seven (Dh39, 1½hours), Laâyoune hours). There isadailydeparture toTan Tan (Dh35, twohours) andAgadir (Dh65,four hours, onedaily)viaTiznit(Dh125, seven x Hôtel Ijdiguen Hôtel Domaine Khattab There are andfoodstalls goodrotisseries Other companies, including Satas and Other companies,includingSatas

THESOUSSVALLEY ••Tan Tan &Tan Tan Plage 028 872057;fax048770912;Ave YoussefibnTachfine) ( x 028 873855) Conveniently situated opposite ( x A 20-hectare workingfarm

has abusforMarrakesh ( 028 771453;BlvdIbnouBattouta; x 061 176411;fax028873150; Hôtel Salam Hôtel ,

d Dh50/80) port andgoodsurffishingfromthebeach. some days.There inthe fleet isabigsardine which makes thisagoodplacetostopfor andafriendlylaid-backhouses atmosphere, There isnowachoice of hotels andguest Mackenzie, whobuiltatradingposthere. attracted a19th-centuryScottishtrader, often windsweptstretch of beach thatfirst 28km westof Tan Tan, isalarge, beautiful, souq isheld1.5kmsouthof town. orJune.take TheSunday placeinSeptember, Tan Tan, a though Tune, p45 ). There’s nothingmuch todoin the Green March Marching (see totheKing’s in 1975,whenitwasthedeparture pointfor the SpanishProtectorate, buthaditsmoment p408). see the Western Sahara(formore information, noticeable, duetothedisputedof status ture. Thearmyandpolicepresence isalso here,settled andbluerobesare abigfea- majority of are theinhabitants nomadswho IIwithinthetownboundaries).Thesan south of (knownasAve thehighway Has- mostofmissed thetown,which spreads Tan’s mainstreet withoutrealising youhad way in,youcouldprobably drive alongTan and harsh Tan isimpressive foritsbleakemptiness proper. toTan The125kmof highway desert Drâa, youenter thecauldronof the Sahara South of Goulmime,acrossthedryOued pop 50,000 TAN TAN &TAN TAN PLAGE Hôtel BirAzzarane Hôtel TAN TAN Sleeping &Eating centre of thevillage. Populaire, withATM andexchange, inthe There aBMCE isapostoffice, and Banque TAN TAN PLAGE postoffice Main El-Hagounia Internet BMCE Banque Populaire TAN TAN Information petrol station. Tan Tan Plage, alsoknownasAl-Ouatia, The townwasfoundedinthe1940sduring If youweren’t onthe stoppedbysecurity (Ave HassanII)ATM totheShell andexchange,next A slightly worn,but remarkably Aslightly hammada (Ave HassanII)Totheeastoftown. (Ave MohammedV). Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book

( x moussem (Ave Hassan II;perhrDh8) (flat,stonydesert). 028 877834; Ave Hassan II;s/ does sometimes sometimes does lonelyplanet.com ﻃﺎﻧﻄﺎﻥ THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA A3 A1 A3 B1 B2 A3 A1 B2 C1 401 This 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 . Goulmime (125km) To Ksar Tafnidilt (26km); Ksar Tafnidilt To

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Tarfaya, Tiznit & Inezgane...... (see 12) Grands Taxis for Tan Tan Plage...... Supratours...... Cheap Restaurants...... Hôtel Bir Azzarane...... Hôtel el-Hagounia...... Hôtel Sable d'Or...... Pâtisserie Le Jardin...... Bus Station...... CTM Office...... Grands Taxis for Laâyoune, Goulmime, SLEEPING & EATING TRANSPORT Cheap Restaurants...... C1 x (

B1 C1 C1 A1 The best budget option in the The best budget Villa Océan 1 2 3 4 5 4 3 There are dozens of cheap restaurants restaurants cheap dozens of are There o 6 [email protected]; Blvd de la Plage; s/d Dh150/200) [email protected]; village, the small rooms are more or less more the small rooms are village, or less more clean, the communal showers hot and the welcome is friendly. Conven- ient location for transport. s/d Dh70/100) on Ave Hassan II, Ave Mohammed V and Mohammed II, Ave Hassan on Ave To Verte. around the Place de la Marche head for the or for breakfast, sip a mint tea, back up the hill to ) or left Sable d’Or ( Hôtel Pâtisserie Le Jardin PLAGE TAN TAN Résidence Raja camp space, and has an air of being very far being very camp space, and has an air of ways ideas of and plenty of from anywhere to spend time. is a wonderful oceanfront guest house with some spacious and airy rooms, a handful of with ocean views, and clean bathrooms. It is owners good value, and has friendly French amount about the region who know a huge trips to grottoesand can arrange and other sights inland (half-day from Dh300) and 15 THE SOUSS VALLEY •• Tan Tan & Tan Tan Plage Plage Tan & Tan Tan Tan •• VALLEY SOUSS THE 2 Army Barracks Mosque

BMCE (ATM)...... El-Hagounia Internet...... Main Post Office...... Post Office...... Banque Populaire...... B2 INFORMATION

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THEANTIATLAS ••Tafraoute (Ave HassanII) inTan Tan de- hasnightly ﺍﻟﺼﻐﻴﺮ

With the same owners Withthesame as Supratours ( x 028 879641;www.hotel-tantan

(Ave HassanII)

ﺍﻷﻃﻠﺲ oper- the country’smostbeautiful farms inthelushoasisvalleys,nowsomeof Chleuh have totheir devoted alwaysbeen of granite boulders andred-lava flows,the system is often down. system isoften Internet café Internet Banque Populaire BMCE Information toWednesday. through day evening takes placenearHôtel SalamafromMon- therefore days.Alively souq lastseveral festivities move fromvillage tovillage and vest singinganddancing;the withall-night around Tafraoute celebrate thealmondhar- ploring theregion. big citiesorabroad. homebyrelativescash sent workinginthe quite prosperousduetothehard-earned unassuming appearancethearea isactually sides byred-granite Despite its mountains. village of Nestled inthegorgeous AmelnValley, the Tafraoute issurroundedonall pop 5000 TAFRAOUTE roundabout. AllcostDh10. choiceket. themain is theoneoff Second prefer theoldone, justbehindthemar- are three hammamsinthe town, butlocals heremost houses stilllackwater. There pletely authentichammamexperienceas Tafraoute isanexcellentplaceforacom- HAMMAMS du Coin to Hôtel Salama,orfromtheshop cycling. Bikes canberented fromAbid, next villages of theAmelnValley isbywalkingor The bestwaytoget aroundthebeautiful CYCLING Activities Post office net isalsoavailableatHôtelLes Amandiers. bikes and helmets. Au CoindesNomades Au from bikestain orbookamountain-biking trip Quadbikes opens forthesouq. Moulded bythedemandinglandscape In late February/early March thevillages andrelaxedIt isapleasant forex- base (behind thepostoffice)HasanATM, thoughthe Tafraoute Adventure (perdayDh60) (Place Mohammed V) Haspayphonesoutside. (Place MohammedV)

( x (per hr Dh12) On theTazekka road.Inter- 070 409384) (Place MohammedV; . Youcanalsorent moun- ( x alsohave mountain 061 627921)

( x lonelyplanet.com palmeraies 061 387173) h . ﺗﺎﻓﺮﺍﻭﺕ Tafraoute Artisanat Artisanat Wed) Only and . THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA

) 7 403 C3 D3 B3 B2 C2 C2 Hospital

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Restaurant Marrakech...... Artisanat du Coin...... Maison Berbère...... Weekly Souq...... SHOPPING TRANSPORT Buses...... Buses...... C2 C2 Maison Touareg...... Grands Taxis...... 22 Souq 6 0100 m 0100 24 C2 B3 C3 C3 D2 C3 B2

THE ANTI ATLAS •• Tafraoute Tafraoute •• ATLAS ANTI THE

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near Hôtel Salama, whose Salama, whose near Hôtel 061 387173) x al-`Ahad ( Place Wali

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Old Hammam...... Post Office...... Abid Bike Rental...... 18) Artisanat du Coin...... (see Hammam...... Banque Populaire...... BMCE...... Internet Café...... Au Coin des Nomades...... C3 INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Tafraout

061 627921)

TAFRAOUTE 2 3 1 x To Tirnmatmat (15km); Tiznit via Tahala (105km) small, friendly nine-room hotel with very with very small, friendly nine-room hotel basic rooms and a communal bathrooms, town near the souq. of in the centre situated (Dh20 to Dh35) as You can eat on the roof long as the wind is blowing the right way from the owner, Houssine Laroussi, is a respected owner, Houssine Laroussi, is a respected by For short walks, you could get climber. with

brochure that shows villages and roads and roads that shows villages brochure through the valley. Sleeping Hôtel Tanger ( Tafraoute has plenty of possibilities for possibilities for has plenty of Tafraoute the walks are though most of trekkers, Several strenuous. companies and guides trips and trekking mountain-biking offer Lekst (2359m) or along either up Jebel Aït Mansour, of gorges the palm-filled the leading towards the bald expanses of ). p444 southern Anti Atlas (see TREKKING Aventure Tafraoute Booklonelyplanet.com stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at tion of maps, as does maps, tion of THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA Berbère Place MohammedV;mealsaroundDh75; Ahmed) fruit andveg available inthemarket. and basicpicnicsuppliestosupplementthe wine andthelambtajine iscommendable. lunch-time. Still,youcantake yourown place withtourgroups,particularlyat style tent, butyouoften have toshare the menuinaratherkitsch Bedouin- cellent set Maison Touareg or Tafraoute Adventure You can hire a 4WD withadriver from CAR daily). and Marrakesh hours, four (Dh90,seven (Dh100,14hours, fiveCasablanca daily) destinationsaswell same these serve (Dh20,2½hours). Other companies Baha while the6pmbustakes Aït youthrough partures goviaTiznit (Dh25,four hours), six hours, daily):the2pmand6.30pm de- onRueal-Jeishpany offices al-Malaki. departfromoutsidethevariouscom- Buses BUS &Away There Getting are than inMarrakesh. Thetwomainoutlets localarganpeople selling andolive oil. to paymore forquality).Lookout,too, expect atDh75,though women, starting leather slippers (yellowformen,red for the market area thetraditional selling Tafraoute slippershops around hasseveral Shopping up ameantajine (Dh35). food. Itattractsalocalcrowdandknocks with asmallterrace andgood,dependable 404 dealers attheweekly carpetsupfromsmall can alsopickBerber menu Dh90; the tajines, all beautifully presented. Thisisalso Locals swearbythisplaceforitssucculent knacks. knick- jewelleryandotherportable Berber at-Tani. Restaurant L’ÉtoileduSud Restaurant Plenty of smallfoodstores cheese sell Trans Balady runs buses toAgadir runsbuses Trans Balady (Dh40, Buying acarpethere islesspressurised L’Étoiled’Agadir Restaurant Artisanat duCoin Artisanat place to ease intothedayover placetoease acoffee. THEANTIATLAS ••AroundTafraoute Maison Touareg Maison , near the post office, specialises in , nearthepostoffice, specialises

(Rte Aguerd-Oudad). (Rte h lunch &dinner)

(Sharia ibn ash-Sheikh al-Haj ibnash-Sheikh (Sharia (Rte Tazekka) (Rte souq Alternatively you They serve anex- They serve

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( x 028 800038;set and h 028 800268; 8am-6pm) Maison Maison

the village tothesquare, where there’s a all directions. a lovely spotand there is goodwalkingin a guidefromTafraoute). Thevillage sitsin (the localkidswillleadyouthere, orengage village, anunmarked Aït Omar(onRte 7148).Justbefore the mat of afallenblock. gazelle, asimpleengraving onthetopface alocaltohelpyoulocate the you’ll need reach theedge of thevillage. Fromhere on palm groves. After about15minutes you thefollow afootpathsouthwestthrough past theBMCE andthesportsground,then easiest waytowalkhere istotake theroad at theedge of thevillage of Tazekka. The engravings. isthe Theclosest ily accessibleexamplesof prehistoric rock The area aroundTafraoute hassomeeas- Rock Carvings shops andrestaurants inTafraoute. ours region, armyourself with Tafraoute. toexplore off setting the Before mostof aroundgetting thesights tosee bikeRenting amountain isagreat wayof AROUND TAFRAOUTE person. going rate totheAmelnValley isDh7per and neartheAfriquiaPetrol The Station. squareThey hangaroundthepost-office lages inthearea, mostlyonmarket days. RoversLand dotheroundsof variousvil- al-Malaki. wagonsand station Otherwise, in themorning(Dh35)fromRueal-Jeish toTiznit goes The occasionalgrandtaxi TAXI Dh3000 forawholeday’sdriving). for aroundDh1200perdayplusfuel(about Napoléon (Napoleon’s Hat). rock formationknown as Châpeaude Le ride. Onthewayyoupassunmistakable of Tafraoute, makes foranicestrollorbike The village of Aguerd-Oudad, 3kmsouth Rocks ChâpeaudeNapoléon&the Le Painted the leads toTirnmatmat, where youwillfind Take the signposted trackthrough To findtheotherengravings at , you need togofurtherwesttowards , youneed gravures (Dh7),abasicmapavailable athotels, (engravings) alongtheriverbed piste, Tafraout in Col- opposite awell, lonelyplanet.com Carved Gazelle Carved Tirnmat- , THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA

405 Tanrarte Gorges Touli Timguilcht Oasis Afella-Ighir (Gîte) Titki Tiwadou Tizerkine Souq 7174 To Igherm (79km); To Igherm El-Had Issi Circuit Taroudannt (158km) d'Afella Ighir 070 793567, 028 801245) Gdourt Ukas Ksar Taghaout x (

00 10 km 6 miles Agouchtim Aït Mansour Fighil Tlata Tasrirte Taghzout Site of (2340m) Engravings Aït Adrar Mqorn Agadir (100km) Gorges Mansour

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L E K S T Tazekka THE ANTI ATLAS •• Around Tafraoute Tafraoute Around •• ATLAS ANTI THE Leave Tafraoute on the new road past on the new road past Tafraoute Leave serves If you book ahead, they and juice. tea couscous or of a lunch will also prepare runs (Dh40). A little further, the river tajine the across the road, marking the start of a track leads oasis. From here Afella-Ighir for about 10km villages through a string of Issi (30km from Tafraoute), Souq el-Had to town that has exploded a rather depressing for the nearby workers with newly arrived From Souq gold mine, Minas de Akka. Aguerd-Oudad, turning left 3km south of turning left 3km south of Aguerd-Oudad, roughly 19km over and travel the village, in winter) a mountain pass (snowed over . The sur- the to the start of through Tlata Tasrirte Gorges Aït Mansour dramatic faced road continues south to the village the gorge, of at the bottom Aït Mansour of where with shared facilities, is run by Mohamed facilities, is run by Mohamed with shared Sahnoun, an expert mountain guide who in his re- to seven-day three- treks organises his own museum – gion but has also created part of a room filled with objects that were ). This would make p406 ( local everyday life base. an excellent remote Tazoulte Asgawr Talkanount Rocks

Afella J E B E L E B E J Carved Gazelle Blue Painted Ouaday Tarsouate Anammer sign- Izerbi power Aït Omar Taguenza (1420m) Tagdichte piste piste 7148 /fax 028 216609, piste, Tirnmatmat x Tahala (

Anirgui (1470m) Site of Engravings Tagmoute R104 Auberge Sahnoun Abbas Ighir N'aït . This place has three simple rooms . This place has three Aït Ouafqa Verame spray-painted the smooth, the smooth, spray-painted Verame AROUND TAFRAOUTE AROUND To Tiznit (62km) posted off the new Tiznit Rd and then walk off the new Tiznit posted for 10 minutes. 067 095376; [email protected]; per per- half board son Dh150) South of Tafraoute is the pretty oasis of oasis of is the pretty Tafraoute South of in a 4WD there You could get Afella-Ighir. the way, part of to drive but it’s preferable the car and continue on foot then leave your make Alternatively or mountain bike. has the , which Tiwadou base of the village wonderful lines and river out into the flat country- out lines and river 1.5km you’ll spot some pale- After side. Bleues blue rocks to your left, the Pierres Belgian Rocks) – the work of artist (Painted Jean Verame. blue, red, of in shades rounded boulders purple and black in 1984 and, although the strange they remain a faded air, rocks have On a landscape. against the and impressive or driving you can follow a bike Afella-Ighir mosque. Veer right and left to get around right and left to get Veer mosque. the mosque, then follow the Around Tafraoute Around lonelyplanet.com THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA whole taxi. you’llprobablyhaveotherwise tohire the go outtovillages aroundthisarea, but a guidetofindthem. youprobably need although rock carvings, 12km southtoUkas someimpressive tosee Tasrite.to Tlata Anotheroptionistohead theTimguilchtthrough gorges andbackup el-Had Issiyoucanloopround25km 406 On market sometimes days,grandstaxis is mylittle paradise. Where doyougoto relax? she doesforme. It’ssimplythebest. tajine. andshe willcookforthemas inthearea Ifpeopleare theycancallusahead, walking What isyourfavourite restaurant? mountains andtotaltranquillity. winter monthstogoandseethem.Ilove introducingforeigners tothisarea. Goingofftothe found inGabon.There are seven sites andIorganise treks ofthree, five orseven daysinthe hereand Ilove are whatmy ancestorsdid.Iheardthattherockcarvings thesameassome What isyourfavourite area? together anditisahappytime. they believe helives there. Whenyougoupseven goingtoMecca. times,itislike Weallget is inthevillagebutpeoplegoonapilgrimagetonearbysacred because mountainAfarkad What isyourfavourite time? boys gointobusiness. They don’tcare abouteducation. three yearsprimaryschool.Butlocalpeoplevalue ‘commerce’,trade,sofrom14yearsonwards, man allowedtogoinbecauseIteach them.Wealsoteach theirchildren, soallnowdoatleast not really valued,nowtheyhave someincomeastheyselltheirworktotourists. I’mtheonly learning aboutweavingandembroidery,howtoread andwrite. Before thewomenwere ing moneythehardshipbegins. awomen’scooperative Sowestarted andnowhave 86women 90% ormore are women, therest are children andoldmen. The daythehusbandstopssend- guest house. Andthat’s whyIworkwithlocalwomenwhogotleftbehind:insomevillages, How cantourism help? as weusedtoknowit,butwhichisnowdisappearing. helps. They have helpedmebuild ahousehere fromdailylife andasmallmuseumwithobjects change, andalsosomethingIvalueimmensely:solidarity.Ifsomeoneneedssomething,everyone Why doyoustay? problem. old mudbrickvillages,sothehousesare disintegrating. Weare losingourtraditions,it’sabig standstill, becausethere are nolongerenoughmentoworktheland. People move outofthe Agriculture anotherfamily,andthentheydon’tcomeback. a newwife hascometoa andstart houses. The region isfullofhugehouses. Butthere isaproblem:after awhilemanymentake Paris are ownedbyBerbersfromthisarea. become industrialistsinCasa andalmostallthecornershopsinCasa, andeven Rabat manyin took over shopsandbusinessesfromJewsleavingforIsrael.Manyofthesefamilieshave now Did othersleave? needed teachers. I wenttoworkinBeniMellalasaphotographer’sassistant.camebackwhenheardthey How longhave youlived inTiwado? Ouhamouisapainter, teacher,Mohamed Sahnoun guest-house ownerandtourguide. MOHAMED SAHNOUNOUHAMOU THEANTIATLAS ••AmelnValley Lekst &Jebel The menusuallyleave theirfamiliesbehindandcomehomeinholidaystobuildbig Many peoplefromthisvalleywenttoCasablanca inthe1950s,where they I love thisplace;Iwouldn’twanttolive elsewhere. There isstillhumanex- Tourism andeducationare theonlysolutions. That’s whyIbuiltmy I love beauty,soImadethisbeautiful gardeninthe I like the I like I amfascinated Iamaself-taughtpainter bytherockcarvings. There are norestaurants here, butmywife cooksthebest moussem I wasbornhere, butafter finishingsecondaryschool ofTimguilcht inMarch.The tombofthesaint lion’s face. Villagers willjokinglytell you formation inthisrange thatresembles a From Tafraoute youcanmake outarock North of thevalleyis other sideof which runsthe Ameln Valley. the northwestliesonesuch ridge, onthe To gold-pinkrocksandcliffs. by craggy Tafraoute liesinabasin,largely surrounded VALLEYAMELN &JEBELLEKST ﻭﺍﺩﻱ

ﻣﻴﻠﻦ Jebel Lekst Jebel ﺍ

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palmeraie ﻟﻜﺴﺖ (2359m).

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407 palm- on the on the This big ) with help- This is among ) (Ave Mohammed V; Mohammed V; (Ave si 028 802302; fax 028 028 802302; fax 028 x 028 24437292, 061 610170; ( 028 802225; fax 028 802042; Délégation de TourismeDélégation de

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THE ANTI ATLAS •• Tata Tata •• ATLAS ANTI THE 028 802076, 076 002699) 028 802076, 076 072 130395; Ave Mohammed V) Mohammed Ave 072 130395; x Dar Infiane Dar Infiane In an attractive spot next to the spot In an attractive x ( Tata’s old kasbah, deep old kasbah, in the Tata’s

) has been an extraordinary turned into Le RelaisSables des You’ll find a post office and Banque a post office and Banque You’ll find Hôtel Renaissance Café Restaurante el-Amal o mains Dh50) hotel is on both sides of the road, with road, with the of is on both sides hotel side and an annexe the older part on one on the other. with comfortable minisuites servesThe restaurant standard Moroccan license. alcohol dishes, but also has an 802300; s/d without bathroom Dh235/316, s/d with bath- 802300; s/d without bathroom room Dh375/466, ste Dh414; camp site, you can get a good square meal a good square you can get camp site, or brochette. tajine of here Populaire (with an ATM) just off the main an ATM) (with Populaire as the road, as well main road. If you are lucky enough be to are road. If you main staying Dar Infiane, the staff at can arrange fantasticexcursions. Getting There & Away Getting There & Away Buses and taxis collect on Place Massira, A V. Mohammed Ave one block east of Tataoui (Tourist office; Sleeping & Eating several basic V are Mohammed Along Ave person. at around Dh40 per hotels, d/ste Dh140/285; Mohammed V; Ave eraie, Latifa and guest house by architect Maali Simon. Off a carpet-strewn owner Patrick central courtyard lie six rooms and a fabu- thousands pool, overlooking lous terrace from Dar Infiane Excursions palm trees. of from using and range crafted carefully are veins the green a light aircraft to fly over the southern oases to going with Latifaof engrav- or visiting rock to local markets guides. Dinners ings with knowledgeable delicious, and evenings on the (Dh200) are the magical in the still of are terrace rooftop Sahara night. ful staff. the most comfortable accommodation options in town, and hence is popular with tour groups. It has a bar and a licensed around arranged and rooms are restaurant, flowery courtyards. It is worth the extra are rooms dirham even though the cheaper a bit poky. www.darinfiane.com; s/d incl breakfast Dh620/1000; www.darinfiane.com; Dh620/1000; s/d incl breakfast si , . 070 ﻃﺎﻃﺎ x Maison (

8.30-sunset) Oumesnate h Yamina . stands the left on Maison du Patrimoine oued Tandilt , converted into the Dar , converted is well worth exploring is well worth exploring 066 917768, 066 918145; maison x kasbah ( and a footpath for the and a footpath for the is run by a Berber woman and ) palmeraie piste a

For trekking in Jebel Lekst and the Ameln in Jebel For trekking The The Agadir road takes you to the val- you to road takes The Agadir

Another few kilometres on at kilometres Another few More than anything in town, Tata is best is best Tata than anything in town, More follow a signpost off to the left along a follow a signpost offto the left along a short Traditionelle This three-storey house (some 400 years house (some 400 years This three-storey old) has been the public since 1982. open to An elderly man, who was brought up in the you house blinded, will take and was later tradi- taleson a fascinating tour, telling of family home Nearby, the current tional life. serves and guest house. Call as a restaurant couscous or of ahead for a delicious lunch served the tajine, overlooking on a terrace valley (Dh60), or to reserve a room (half costs Dh200). board per person . p444 see Valley, 523883; www.yamina-tafraout.com; half board per person 523883; www.yamina-tafraout.com; Dh350; as is the old pop 40,000 plain at the foot on the Saharan Situated was an oasis settlement Tata Bani, Jebel of from Zagoraalong the trade route to Tan Close border, the small to the Algerian Tan. domi- modern town has a garrison feel, as it is by the militarynated installations on the hill above. TATA that he is there to guard the women while while the women to guard is there that he working. away are their husbands Berber picturesque with vil- ley, dotted the Tafraoute, out of kilometres Four lages. turning with the rightroad forks branch Shortly valley towards Agadir. east up the of the village after, Booklonelyplanet.com stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at her French husband, who have created a a created husband, who have her French styles, a Berberunique fusion of house as trees palm of finds them, made one rarely beauty and comfort great of and plaster, un- delicious and prepares Yamina inside. usually light local dishes. [email protected]; admission Dh10; [email protected]; admission Infiane hotel ( right ) and a small museum. right ( Infiane hotel as a base for off-the-beaten-track excur- oasis, desert camping as Akka sions, such at Oum el-Alek, and the rock engravings among the finest in and Aït Herbil, Tircht from Information is available Morocco. the tourist office at the of the road, across a the road, across of THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA SAHARA WESTERN (Dh90) andGoulimime(Dh80). (Dh100), Taroudannt (Dh70),Agadir ime (Dh60,sixhours, onedaily). (Dh70, five hours, onedaily)andGoulim- daily), Agadir viaTiznit orTaroudannt ate departures toMarrakesh (Dh120,one (Dh60, 6½hours). Othercompaniesoper- hours,(Dh80, eight three daily)viaTiznit busleavesSatas otherdayforAgadir every 408 ﺍﻟﻐﺮﺑﻴﺔ merely administrative centres, andtheroad atthedispute. Thetownsare marvel does of Tarfaya. Travelling here, through one Spanish coloniesof SpanishSaharaandpart but few outsideMoroccowillagree. show thisregion aspart of theircountry, is stillunderdispute. Moroccanmapsmay longs tothem,yettheUNisclearthatthis Western Saharaandtheywillinsistitbe- Ask of anyMoroccanaboutthestatus the This area largely theformer comprises plytheroutes toTiznitGrands taxis and idletravellers, aswassoelegantlycaptured in Paul Bowles’novel Europeanthe landscapeasbyraiders. colonisers thwarted Andeven inthe20thcentury, thedesert town ofTimbuktu andthe goldfieldsofWestAfrica, asoften foundthemselves overwhelmed by vast expansesinsearchofanswersto the geographicalriddlesofNigerRiver, thelegendary caravanroutes.the Saharan thatlined thecrossingdescribed trail ofhumanandanimalskeletons travellers whosurvived preferring borders. instead They topatrolitsnorthern hadgoodreason forstayingaway:lucky horrible ofalldeaths,thatarisingfromthirst!’The Romansnever managedtocrossthedesert, [sic]ofsuchformidableextent, astothreatenDesarts thosewhotraverse them,withthemost cal view…itsregions separated ofallboundaries,arid fromeachotherbytheleastpracticable his and rock-strewn plains. attuned orwell-prepared inits3millionsqmilesofsanddunes, aridmountains cansurvive istheworld’slargest aridzone.ing ‘desert’, Itisalsoaplaceofnightmares asonlythewell- Europe, others settled in the Atlantic port. Amongthem wereEurope, others settledintheAtlantic meninitiated port. intothemysticrites West Africa. Whilemanyslaves were to soldinthesouqandshippedacross theAtlantic ornorth and itstrade,andyouwillmeetsomeof them. depended onthedesert in society.Travel throughsouthern townssuchasEssaouiraandGoulmime,bothofwhichhave theymovegroup ofwealthyAmericansrunintoincreasing trouble,thefurther intotheSahara. The most ofusdream. fromtheArabicword nameisenoughtomake The Sahara, A DESERTOFDREAMS ANDNIGHTMARES WESTERNSAHARA ••History European explorers of the late-18th and early-19th centuries, who struggled across the Sahara’s European explorers andearly-19th centuries,whostruggledacrosstheSahara’s ofthelate-18th inThe 18th-centuryBritishgeographerJames RennellsummedupthechallengeofSahara Essaouira’s Gnawa peopleare longagofrom descendants ofslaves broughtacrossthe desert The travel dangersinvolved give inSaharan peoplewhoinhabitthewildernessaspecialplace Geographical Elucidations

ﺍﻟﺼﺤﺮﺍء (published 1790)whenhewrote, ‘Africa standsaloneinageographi- gold. Inreality, until1934itwasSheikh Ma ithadneitherwater nor though Oro, even the Western Saharaandrenamed itRiode overlords again:theSpanish,whograbbed thatthewholeregion desert wasArabised. tlers, theMaqil fromYemen, migrated tothe wavecentury whenasecond of Arabset- in the7thcentury,butitwasonly13th tribes andSanhaja Berber among theZenata Islamic missionaries started tospread Islam ern Saharahasalongandviolenthistory. Despite itswindsweptdesolation,theWest- History is justsouthof Tarfaya. The first of theAtlasSaharapetrol stations less perlitre thanintherest of thecountry. isthatpetrolcostsacoupleofstatus dirham isnowaroutineaffair.south toDakhla from theendlesspoliceroadblocks,going But,apart cupied bytheMoroccanmilitary. Polisario-backed isstilloc- war,thedesert tureless, anduninviting. arid,inhospitable avastareacuts through of By the 19th century the desert hadnew By the19thcenturydesert One of thebenefitsof thearea’s tax-free Despite the1991ceasefire inthe The ShelteringSky hammada lonelyplanet.com sahra , inwhicha , mean- –fea- THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA 409 .) or the Saharawi Arab or the Saharawi sirocco or WESTERN SAHARA •• Climate Climate •• SAHARA WESTERN chergui, irifi chergui, www.un.org www.un.org www.wsahara.net www.arso.org For the most up-to-date information on information up-to-date For the most Remember, it is important to carry a Democratic Republic (as they officially call Republic (as they officially Democratic the following: log on to one of themselves), the Western Sahara, Sahara, Western the Beyond the Anti Atlas lies an the foothills of Here starvedarid hinterland moisture. of can exceed during the 45°C temperatures at night, to 0°C while an day and plunge a year less than 125mm annual rainfall of between a suffocatinggives aridity hovering 5% and 30% – dry enough to mummify to April sandstorms also corpses. March plague the desert, making driving inadvis- (The desertable. wind is known locally as the it is also In winter water. good supply of offshore oil exploration, and attracting Mo- and attracting oil exploration, offshore tax-free. here north to live from the roccans open but, to all intents is still The debate and purposes, suc- Morocco seems to have ceeded its claim to the territory. in Climate No group is more closely associated with the desert than the Touareg, to whom the so-called to whom the so-called Touareg, with the desert closely associated than the No group is more If the idea of survival in such an inhospitable place is part of what makes the Saharan dream beauty of than the pure complicated for many visitors, the main attraction more is nothing Yet of the south, often expressed through trance-inducing music. Some of these musicians – usually through trance-inducing Some of these musicians – usually expressed music. of the south, often into service pressed during the trans-Sahara rhythms to drummers – were crossing, creating coffles moved. which the slave so only their eyes Wrapped in their veils blue men, found in places such as Goulimime, belong. long exposed to the desert’s have are withering condition, bound by strict tribal codes, Touareg Ibn Battuta 14th-century Arab traveller The for toughness and independence. had a reputation a rascally are is little good to say about them. They and there wear face-veils of them, ‘They wrote centuries by many who plied the Saharan the next few over opinion was confirmed lot.’ That taken by Touareg. often were whose goods or lives caravan routes, It wasn’t by chance that with its vast wastelands. so too is the mysticism associated so potent, Moses found guidance in a desert. Jesus went to the desert not the Sahara) (though for 40 days closer to divinity, the to draw themselves hermits headed there himself, early Christian to prepare out of the desert. And in Morocco, religion Prophet Mohammad brought his message of a new of came out of the desert zeal fringes, most notably the reformist movements many reformist the Almoravids and Almohads. some of the best of the and Libya have true sand dunes (Algeria Morocco has few the landscapes. Saharan thousands of kilometres land. You need only head south of arid dunes), but it does have a of the southeast, to have to the sandier regions or over and Tarfaya, Tan of Goulimime, to Tan sense of the Sahara, brilliance of the midday sun terrifying of the cool beauty of its sunrise, the a land that seems empty but is not and that stretches and the extraordinary dusk over calm of not just as far as the eye can see but further imagine. than most visitors can even When it was abandoned by Spain in in abandoned by Spain When it was 100,000 Moroccan In the following years since, Morocco has strengthened Ever El-Ainin and his son El-Hiba who control- his son El-Hiba and El-Ainin desertled the tribes. After nomadic and the prevailed colonial peace that, an uneasy in 1957, independence until Moroccan nationalist fervourwhen new contributed Polisario Front the to the establishment of war against the Spanish. and the guerrilla both raised and Mauritania 1975, Morocco but Mauritania claims to the desert region, King 1975 soon bailed out. In November – March Green the II orchestrated Hassan south to stake 350,000 Moroccans marched to the Western Morocco’s historical claims ). p45 text, Sahara (see boxed in to stamp out resist- poured troops were When the Polisarioance. lost the support of and Libya, it soon became clear that Algeria Rabathand. The UN bro- had the upper in 1991, but the promised a cease-fire kered Saharawis could the in which referendum, choose between independence and integra- tion with Morocco, has yet to materialise. pouring money its hold on the territory, particularly projects, into infrastructure lonelyplanet.com THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA During the winter season (NovemberDuring the winter season to to Dh600 perperson forborder crossings. Hôtel Sahara,andcharge aroundDh500 checkpoint,out neartheDakhla andinthe border. Jeep drivers canbefound hanging local sourceof informationregarding the Hôtel Erraha( p415 isthebest ) inDakhla allow atleastsixhours tocover the380km. fortwodays), and water andfood(enough arrange good4WDtransport.Take plentyof to butfornowyouneed der fromDakhla, few more toCasablanca. toAgadir aweek operates oneflight anda There which isasmallairportatDakhla, from Agadir are andDakhla also available. Morefrom Casablanca. infrequent flights grated part of thecountry. and Moroccotreats theregion asaninte- MoroccoandtheWesterntween Sahara, There designated isnoofficially border be- &Away There Getting due totheUNpresence. older generation. English isalsospoken, Spanish, ahabitthatlingers onwiththe language was,untilrecently,mon second ous SpanishProtectorate, themore com- are spoken almostuniversally. As aprevi- In theWestern Sahara,ArabicandFrench Language landmines. Nouâdhibou duetothevery real danger of thorities) tonegotiate theoff- (on theinsistence of theMauritanian au- toengage youwillneed alocalguide ritania, Westerners. to quarters and barracks,isalsooff-limits oppositehead- themilitary trict inDakhla, Saharawis stilllive. Thebusyred-light dis- refugee campsinbothcities,where many to thephotographingof thedepressing installations. around military of whomremain sensitive tophotography more aware of andpolice,both themilitary youwillbe andDakhla In bothLaâyoune Dangers &Annoyances be bitterly cold. can nights some warmclothingasdesert bagand tocarryawarmsleeping essential 410 There of tothebor- istalk runningbuses byregular flights isserved Laâyoune If youare crossing theborderintoMau- Similarly, theywillnottake tookindly WESTERNSAHARA ••Tan Tan toTarfaya piste roadto Dh330) peche.sudmaroc.free.fr, inFrench; perpersonhalf-board Lagoon orocean. Lagoon who organises tripsonthenearbyNaïla is runbyamanpassionate aboutfishing, rising fromthewaters. shipwrecks, clearlyvisiblefromtheroad, ofAtlantic beaches andaseries surreal tremely scenic,withwild,untouched Auberge PêcheetLoisirs Auberge fromthesea. grilled fish straight serving stop, eitheratoneof thegarages oratacafé nir, 110kmfurtheron,isagoodplaceto the slowly through further south,herdsof camelswandering anglers theircatch bytheroadside)and, sell tops(manyofperched these onthecliff relativelytraffic light. Theroadisgoodandthe highway. desert takes youacrossa monotonousstretch of The 225kmdrive from Tan Tan to Tarfaya TAN TAN TOTARFAYA service. tours provides thefaster andmore efficient Supra- although andDakhla, to Laâyoune Supratours andCTM bothoperate buses Around Getting Mauritania. toget onebeforevised arrivinginAfrica. butyouare stronglyad- issued inRabat, in Mauritania. one ontheMoroccansideandother twocustomspoints, togothrough need ing youalift. March) overland trucksmayconsider giv- over, theyappropriated the building,now called Port Victoria. WhentheSpanish took which he ing postonarock justoff-shore, Donald Mackenzie, whobuiltasmall trad- the late 19thcenturyby a Scottish trader, tohave created seems been settlement in led zoneof name. Theoriginal thesame second-largest townintheSpanish-control- The tinyfishingportof Tarfaya wasthe pop 4500 TARFAYA The area justnorthof Tarfaya isex- If youwanttohangaroundlonger, the anglers’ huts Along theroute you’llsee See p484 formore on crossinginto It ispossibletohave aMauritanian visa Once youarrive attheborderyouwill has clean and comfortable rooms hascleanandcomfortable

hammada ( x 061 211983;http:// lonelyplanet.com . SidiAkhfen- ﻃﺮﻓﺎﻳﻪ

and THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA 028 411 ﺍﻟﻌﻴﻮﻥ x (ONMT; 8.30am-noon & 2.30- , about relaunching relaunching , about h 9am-noon & 2.30-6.30pm h (Place Dchira). Has another branch (Blvd de Mekka; per hr Dh10) Internet (cnr of Ave Hassan II & Blvd Mohammed) (cnr of Ave (Place Hassan II; (Blvd de Mekka; per hr Dh8) Internet access. (www.navieraarmas.com)

(Place Hassan II) Has another branch at Place Dchira. Buses mostly gather at offices towards As a government centre and a military centre a government As 891694; Ave de l’Islam; 891694; Ave Sahar@Network W@dernet Wafa Bank the southern end of Blvd de Mekka. Grand Blvd de Mekka. the southern end of about town. scattered taxi stations are Information and several banks with ATMs are There of facilities near the intersection exchange V. II and Blvd Mohammed Blvd Hassan Banque Populaire BMCE Délégation Régionale du Tourisme Post office 8.30-11.30am & 3-6.30pm Fri) Also has 6.30pm Sat-Thu, public phones with international connection. is a There smaller (post only) branch on Place Dchira. garrison, Laâyoune – let’s not forget, like garrison, Laâyoune like – let’s not forget, it is officially under the region of the rest of much occupation – doesn’t make foreign heading a destination. But whether you’re so great are north or south, distances here to stop. that you may have Orientation The town’s showpiece is the vast Place du about hang youths bored (where Méchouar The centre. is no obvious at night), but there along are post office, banks and most hotels II or Blvd de Mekka. Hassan either Ave Armas (AL-‘UYUN) LAÂYOUNE pop 200,000 Laâyoune as an out- The Spanish created the nearby to administer post from which mines. The Moroccans Bou Craa phosphate spent had bigger and have ambitions have than US$1 billion turning it into the more Now Sahara. the Western principal city of its popula- Spanish, neither Saharawi nor from the lured tion is mostly Moroccans, and healthy wages north by the promise of goods. tax-free the service. to Tar- transport they do, Until to the busesfaya is limited and occasional and Tan grands taxis Tan that run north up to daily services, are south to Laâyoune. There erratic at best. but timetables are access. on Blvd Mohammed. Mon-Fri) Few handouts, but the staff are anxious to please. handouts, but the staff are Mon-Fri) Few WESTERN SAHARA •• Laåyoune (Al-’Uyun) (Al-’Uyun) Laåyoune •• SAHARA WESTERN Le Petit Le Petit 028 895506; (Ave Moham- (Ave

x (

which features features which Bahja . The man respon- (Southern Mail) and (Southern Mail) 061 079488; Ave Mohamed V; 061 079488; Ave , which tells the story of the story of tells , which x (

is abandoned but still stand- Musée Saint-Exupéry was erected in his memory at was erected . Both of these places can serve. Both of 8.30am-4.30pm) Courrier Sud Casa Mar Casa Mar three rooms h monument Each year, the service in is remembered simple ho- of a couple does have Tarfaya But Tarfaya will forever be associated be associated will forever But Tarfaya The A new ferry serviceA new ferry opened in De- which the north end of the beach: a Bréguet 14 the beach: the north end of plane he used to fly. biplane, the sort of Nearby is the ing and can be easily reached at low tide. at low tide. reached ing and can be easily is the deep south, Tarfaya of much But like is, is short on specific sights, but what there Saint-Exupéry. to dedicated predominantly A sible for the museum, Sadat Melainime also sible for the museum, Sadat Melainime rents his life and of the airmail service and of his life he helped in French. run. The descriptions are the Rallye Saint-Exupéry, fly when planes from Toulouse to Saint Louis and back. to In October 2007, they landed at Tarfaya the of the 80th anniversary commemorate taking up his post and the 25th year writer the rally. of being the the better tels, s/d Dh150/250) med V; known as Casa Mar (house as Casaknown the sea; in Mar see big of is on the cusp ). Today Tarfaya below developments,with Spanish and Jordanian and rumours projects, planning developers to the connection the ferry of a relaunch of Canary Islands. Antoine pilot and writer with the French de Saint-Exupéry. flying In 1926 he began the mail service France to St down from then known as Louis in Senegal. Tarfaya, the stops. In 1927 he Cap Juby, was one of for Tarfaya stationwas appointed manager writ- here, years of and he spent a couple ing for Prince), Prince Little (The Saint- a pilot lost in the desert. In 1944 while on Corsica over Exupéry disappeared a photographic reconnaissance. lonelyplanet.com dreaming up his most famous story, dreaming Blvd Bir Anzarane; s/d Dh100/130) up a good fish tajine. Other food options re- tajine. up a good fish a couple where around the main street, volve cafés serveof up fried fish. and Fuerteven- cember 2007 between Tarfaya a property boom astura brought hope of turn- started in the hope of buying investors but the ferry ing the sleepy a resort, place into on 30 April 2008 ran aground just offshore is no word from the operators, and there THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA Laâyoune 412 0 400 m 0 0.2 miles

LAÂYOUNE WESTERNSAHARA ••Laåyoune

Ou ja ed 15 a Saq h u To Sand dunes (3km); ia e To Grand Taxis for Goulmime, Tan Tan, 24 Lagoons (10km); l-Ha Souq San mra Inezgane and Agadir (500m); Hôtel Ave Hassan II 7 Djaj Tarfaya (100km); (R 18 ue iver As-Smara (500m); Souq Djemal (500m) R b Tan Tan (300km) ed) 12 5

V Place

d 2 Hassan 9 e II m 3 INFORMATION m a B h lvd Banque Populaire (ATM)...... 1 D4 o d e la Banque Populaire (ATM)...... 2 C1 M M ar d ine BCM...... 3 C1 lv B BMCE (ATM)...... 4 D4 17 Ave Oqba BMCE (ATM)...... 5 C1 de I'Islam Délégation Régionale du Tourisme...6 C2 ve ben Nafii A 6 Police Station...... 7 C1 Colline des Oiseaux Post Office...... 8 D4 14 Post Office...... 9 C1 Blvd B Prin Sahar@net...... 10 D3 Stadium lvd ce M de M ou ek lay W@dernet...... 11 C2 ka Abd allah Wafa Bank (ATM)...... 12 C1 Place du 11 Méchouar 13 20 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES ef Grande Mosquée...... 13 C2 Palais de Congrès...... 14 B2 Blv d H Spanish Cathedral...... 15 B1 ad 27 j B 26 ab a A hm 10 SLEEPING To Foum el-Oued (22km); ed Hôtel Jodesa...... 16 D3 Boujdour (188km); Blvd Moulay Youss e Dakhla (320km) n Hôtel Parador...... 17 C2 B a lv u 22 d o Hôtel Sidi Ifni...... 18 C1 2 a Ismail 4 ir N a Sahara Line Hotel...... 19 C3 o K v l- e e m b d EATING Hassan I e lv r B Airport 19 Au Palais des Glaces...... 20 C2 Blvd Moulay 75 Cafés & Cheap Restaurants...... 21 D4 19 30 Le Poissonier...... 22 D3 16 Pizzeria la Madone...... 23 D4 B A lv v a Restaurant el-Bahja...... 24 C1 d e O kk u C m e S h Place aa a M d h TRANSPORT Oum i d de

CTM...... 25 D4 lonelyplanet.com Saad B 25 o d u v Grands Taxis for Plage Foum c l h B 23 ra el-Oued...... 26 B3 y a 1 21 29 Hassan I Airport...... 27 A3 Royal Air Maroc...... 28 D4 Place Dchira SATAS...... 29 D4 Supratours...... 30 B3 4 To Grands Taxis 28 to Boujdour; 8 Dakhla (2km) THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA

Re- 413

Apart Apart is located is located Royal Air Maroc operates three three operates 028 980476; Blvd de 028 980476; Blvd de (lentil soup), sal- lunch & dinner) x 028 893346) 028 993252; 141 Ave Chahid 028 993252; 141 Ave ( A modern and very A modern and very

h (Blvd Mohammed V; set menu A cosy place to eat in, x

x ( Simple grilled meat – Simple grilled meat – ( harira

in Casablanca 022 538080; www 028 993262, 061 235795; 183 Blvd has flights to Agadir (1¼ (1¼ has flights to Agadir x has a morning bus to Dakhla x ( (

lunch & dinner) 028 894071; Place Dchira) h Hassan I Airport x (Blvd de Mekka)

Restaurant el-Bahja Au des Glaces Palais The hotel restaurants at the Sahara Line restaurants The hotel Le Poissonier Pizzeria la Madone Dh20; European-style tearoom, patisserieEuropean-style tearoom, and ice- in parlour, with the best ice creams cream starttown. A good place to the day, too. 2km south of Laâyoune. 2km south of from the restaurants at the top-end hotels, at the top-end hotels, from the restaurants in town and if this is the best restaurant worse to be in Laâyoune, are you have there a fish your time than over spending ways of place. in this friendly soup or lobster gional Air Lines direct weekly flights to Casablancadirect (1½ and one to Dakhlahours) (one hour). BUS CTM Bouchraya; pizzas Dh40-60) Getting There & Away AIR The (RAM; Hotel and the Parador offer more upmarket upmarket more offer and the Parador Hotel meals. liable three-star option, the swish, carpeted swish, carpeted option, the three-star liable bath- fridge, have rooms air-conditioned on the restaurant a There’s TV. rooms and Dh50), but no bar. top floor (breakfast Eating and simple restaurants many cafés are There Dh20 should where Dchira, around Place food stalls lively meal. More you a filling get Djemal. can be found at the Souq though they also do a brisk takeaway trade. Thin-crust pizzas, all excellent, as is the are ads, omelettes pasta marinara. Mekka; Dh10-17) breakfast lamb, certainly, camel perhaps – is served but with plenty of here, without ceremony A good place for when and chips. grease fish. fresh had enough of you’ve hours). (Dh141, seven one daily) and services hours, daily) via three (Dh190, 10½ hours, to Agadir and Goulimime (Dh100, four hours) Tan Tan daily). (Dh142, seven three hours, .regionalmaroc.com) .regionalmaroc.com) de Mekka; meals Dh60-90; WESTERN SAHARA •• Laåyoune (Al-’Uyun) (Al-’Uyun) Laåyoune •• SAHARA WESTERN A re- ) is the is the and new Spanish ca- ai A survivor from ) Souq Djemal (Blvd de Mekka)

028 995454; fax 028 990155; as x

( 028 992064; fax 048 893784; 223

028 893488; 12 Rue Sanhaja, Souq public showers opposite. public showers 028 892814; fax 028 890962; Ave de 028 892814; fax 028 890962; Ave

x (Moulay Abdel Aziz Mosque; Blvd Mou- By far the best of the real the real By far the best of ( x

x ( (

are unlikely to have you reaching you reaching to have unlikely are Centrally located north of Place Place Centrally north of located Palais de Congrès Palais , (now closed) on Ave Hassan II, with II, with Hassan , (now closed) on Ave

Sahara Line Hotel More alluring are the kilometres of dunes of the kilometres alluring are More

Hôtel Jodesa Spanish days, built in hacienda style around gardens, it has a faintly colonial bar and (set menu restaurant a good, if expensive, equipped with all Dh200). The rooms are comforts you’d expect and the creature has a small terrace. each lay Youssef) cheapies, this place is very local in flavour. local in flavour. place is very this cheapies, – use water cold, salty here bore Showers are luckily there l’Islam; s/d Dh1100/1400; Hôtel Parador MIDRANGE & TOP END MIDRANGE & TOP END Hôtel Sidi Ifni BUDGET The UN maintain in significant presence a Laâyoune hotels, to fill the better and tend so you would be wise to book ahead. Un- surprisingly, good accommodation in this by expensive desert outpost is relatively Moroccan standards. Sleeping Sights & Activities & ActivitiesSights the grand wants government The Moroccan to attract our attention, Place du Méchouar but the Booklonelyplanet.com stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at liveliest area of town and has some of the of town and has some of area liveliest best food stalls. visible from town, clearly north and west of several points in and around the vantage a 4WD them, take in among city. To get agents (local travel the road to Tarfaya off Lagoons trips). can organise to the north of for birdwatching. great town are thedral dome mimicking rounded white its huge, To the southwest of the local architecture. the cathedral, bustling for your camera. The original Spanish town The original Spanish for your camera. el-Hamra Saquia the riverbed runs along the startling presides which over Dchira, this modern hotel is a good cheaper is a good cheaper this modern hotel Dchira, basic, but reasonably option. Rooms are bathroom. private spacious and some have Djaj; s/d Dh35/55) Grande Mosquée Grande Mosquée Blvd de Mekka; s/d without shower Dh100/144, with shower Dh144/155) Blvd el-Kairaouane; s/d/tr Dh399/506/614; THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA daily) andTan Tan (Dh100,twodaily). (Dh140,one(Dh190, twodaily),Dakhla (Dh130, ninehours, twodaily),Agadir nary Islands scuttle through town looking nary Islands scuttlethrough day-trippersing fleet, fromthe nearbyCa- new portishome toMorocco’slargest fish- boundaries, roads are being paved, thehuge blocks are stretching constantly thetown pour moneyintothetown.Newapartment place andthegovernment continuesto enough rather soullessbutitisapleasant than manytownsinthesouth. upmarket hotel projects andfeels lessremote isthefocusof Dakhla somesignificantand are arriving attheendof theearth. Andyet of driving,itistempting toimaginethat you nia ortryingtoget lost:after somanyhours worthwhile ifyouwere enroute toMaurita- of journeyyouwouldthink wouldonlybe endless dir) through (more than 1000kmfromAga-Laâyoune coastline. It’savery lonely520kmdrive from peninsula stretching out40kmfromthemain just northof theTropicof onasandy Cancer lies formerly calledVillaCisneros,Dakhla happen downhere. nations onawhim.Thingsare to starting onitslistofdidn’t putDakhla cooldesti- not forlong:French newspaper can blog,‘but isfortravellers’.Dakhla But ‘Marrakesh oneMoroc- isfortourists’,said pop 40,000 DAKHLA (AD-DAKHLA) just southof theGreat Mosque. nearest beach, ismore conveniently located thereA petittaxi alsocostsaboutDh4. ‘Place Boujdour’inthesouthernsuburbs. (Dh170)leave(Dh70) andDakhla from Dh5 orso;askthedriver forPlaceTan Tan. and-white willtake youthere petittaxi for Hassan IIalongAve Hassan II.Alocalred- Agadir; Dh180)about1.5kmeastof Place Goulimime (Dh130)andInezgane(for northtoTan grandstaxis Catch Tan (Dh100), TAXI 414 Dakhla (Dh150,ninehours, onedaily). Dakhla rakesh (Dh270,16hours, twodaily),andto Supratours Dakhla’s whitewashed, arcadedstreetsDakhla’s are bythe Spanishin1844and Established lotforFoumel-Oued(Dh8),the The taxi headingsouthtoBoujdour Grands taxis Satas WESTERN SAHARA •• Dakhla (Ad-Dakhla) WESTERNSAHARA ••Dakhla

(Blvd de Mekka) (Blvd deMekka)

(Place OumEssad) hammada will get youtoTiznit has buses toMar-has buses . It is the sort . Itisthesort Le Figaro ﺍﻟﺪﺍﺧﻠﺔ

Dh660/880/1100; regency.com; Ave al-Walae; s/d/ste inclbreakfast salads, fishandomelettes later.salads, inthemorningandgoodand croissants coffee and stonelions.Theyusuallyserve pergolas, mockgaslights withfairylights, to hangoutforanhourortwounderthe including street totheeastof theCTM office. roussi; s/dDh60/80) Rooms are facilitiesare bright; communal. fice, oneof better budget Dakhla’s deals. make thishotel, justsouthof theCTM of- ofand standards cleanliness above thenorm wash itdown. orwineto adecentpaellaandbeer salad, where youcanenjoyanexcellentoctopus Café Restaurant Samarkand Restaurant Café Sleeping &Eating vehicles before atrekcan service south. the newerpartof towntothesouthwest,who (Ave MohammedV) old centralmarket. most hotels andcaféssituated aroundthe centralpostofficeand with thebusoffices, isreasonably easytogetDakhla around, &Information Orientation (all hotels activities). canhelparrange these to windsurf,kitesurf, paraglideorgofishing four-wheel driving,ordowntothebeach forsome it’soutintothedesert erwise views.Oth- ford isgoodforsomefantastic their private jetsdownforaweekend. before some of theMarrakesh bring set for Moroccanexoticaanditwon’tbelong ted aroundtowncharging Dh10perhour. You’llalsofindinternet cafésdot- seafront. h all kinds of water sports,including fishing rooms have allthemodern amenities,and best.Thecolourfulspaciousis Dakhla’s resort hotel, 100m fromthegorgeous bay, hotel, butfornowthis modern four-star there willbeaMarrakesh-style five-star meal aroundDh100) Mohammed V;mainsDh40-80) Casa Luis Casa Dakhla hasanumber ofDakhla bankswithATMs, Sahara Regency Regency Sahara Aigue Hôtel There are plentyof mechanics, mostlyin The The old 8.30am-noon & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri) 8.30am-noon &2.30-6.30pmMon-Fri) tourist office tourist BMCE

Spanish lighthouse ( x

on the road running along the ontheroadrunningalong ( asi x (Ave el-Walaa) AgoodSpanishrestaurant Peach paintwork,hotwater Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book 028 898193;14Ave Mohammed V; 028 897395;Ave SidiAhmed Laa- ( x

( x 028 931555;www.sahara The favourite place ) 028 898228;1RueTiris; Some timesoon

and ( x atPointDurn- lonelyplanet.com Crédit duMaroc 028 898316;Ave is upaside

THE SOUSS, ANTI ATLAS & WESTERN SAHARA , 415 operates three three operates is just west of west of is just has four flights (Ave Mohammed V)(Ave © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © have daily services have to 028 897049) 082 000080) Supratours , x x ( (

(Blvd de Walae)

028 897049; Ave des PTT)028 897049; Ave (Blvd 4 Mars) x ( Satas

Grands taxis for Laâyoune (Dh170) leave CTM CTM from an area called Al-Messira at the south- called Al-Messira from an area town. west end of Laâyoune (Dh141, eight hours), Tan Tan Tan Laâyoune Tan (Dh141, eight hours), (Dh340, 21 and Agadir (Dh250, 14 hours) ahead. should be booked tickets hours); and a week Casablanca, to Laâyoune, to three in the Canaries,two to Las and one Palmas to Agadir. Getting There & Away Getting There & Away Aéroport Dakhla town; a petit taxi to a hotel costs Dh4, al- costs taxitown; a petit to a hotel distance. within walking thoughmost are RAM flightsweek a them to Casablanca, of one Laâyoune. and two in Agadir stopping in Regional Airlines WESTERN SAHARA •• Dakhla SAHARA WESTERN (Ad-Dakhla)

Large rooms have bath- Large rooms have 028 898046; fax 028 898045; Ave 028 898046; fax 028 898045; Ave /fax 028 898811; Ave Beuchekroune; Beuchekroune; Ave /fax 028 898811; x (

x (

This spick-and-span hotel boasts hotel This spick-and-span

Hôtel Erraha Hôtel Erraha

Hôtel Doumss

el-Walaa; s/d Dh250/300)

the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ everyone it. See you know, or resell the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to restricted. we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes In return, © Lonely Planet Publications. To makeis not digitally it easier for you to use, access to this chapter © Lonely Planet Publications. and kitesurfing, are available. The hotel has The hotel available. are and kitesurfing, rooftop and a good bars than three no less in Dakhla, elsewhere bath- Like restaurant. water. always have rooms don’t Booklonelyplanet.com stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at rooms and balconies, but are somewhat dull are rooms and balconies, but is also there and functional. Unexpectedly, closes at 7pm. To find it, head a bar, which for going tower and keep north to the water another 200m. s/d Dh180/220) 24-hour hot water and spacious rooms, and spacious rooms, water 24-hour hot Its location about kitchenettes. some with near the new centre, the of 1km southwest pain if you want to Edderhem Mosque, is a for grand hang out in town, but convenient stations. and Supratour taxi and the SAT