Overview Vorwort

Frankfurt

Upper Foreword Rheingau Wiesbaden Lower Rheingau Eltville Maingau Main Mainz Hochheim Rüdesheim Rüsselsheim Odenwälder Klaus-Peter Keßler Otto Guthier Bingen Weininsel President of the Rheingau Viticultural Association Viticultural Association Hessische Bergstrasse Kleine Bergstrasse

Darmstadt Groß-Umstadt INE BUSINESS is increasingly fee- the word embraces much more than just the soil, ling the effects of globalisation. it is understood as the sum of the whole: grape va- Rhein RHEINGAU AND Small wine regions such as the riety, terrain, microclimate, geology and soil as HESSISCHE BERGSTRASSE W Rheingau and the Hessische Bergstrasse are com- well as the work put in by the winemaker in the

ca. 18 km Hessische peting with products from all over the world on vineyard and cellar. The product is a unique wine, Bergstrasse the wine market. This development also leads to with a style that reflects its provenance. Winema- a globalisation of tastes. Wineries increasingly kers from the smaller wine growing regions in employ modern technology to tailor wines to suit particular are experiencing a growing demand for Bensheim consumers. The discussion about artificial fla- wines with distinct styles and personalities. vouring is just one example of the trend towards In response to current interest in terroir wines, Worms Heppenheim producing uniform, non-descript wines – in the the association of wine growers of the federal sta- end, wines that could be from anywhere. te of Hesse has commissioned the Geisenheim CONTENT Research Centre to in- Foreword | 3 vestigate the diversity of the vineyards in Hesse Rheingau, Hessische Bergstrasse and the Riesling | 4 and the wine styles they The term terroir | 5 produce. In a joint effort with winemakers in The project „Terroir Hessen“ | 7 Hesse, numerous sites The origin of the landscape | 8 were selected for produ- Many winemakers are reacting to this „new cing Riesling „terroir wines“. This brief brochu- The soil | 10 wine culture“ by focussing on provenance and re introduces you to six wines and their vineyards, Soil and Wine | 12 PICTURES: authenticity. Wine is once more appreciated as a focussing on the effect of the soil on the Riesling Reinhard Antes: S. 4 bottom, 19 unique natural product. There is a growing aware- wine. Quartzite – Lorcher Bodenthal-Steinberg | 12 Peter Böhm: S. 5, 7, 8, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, ness for wines with styles that reflect the natural We would like to encourage you to take a clo- 18, 18 top right, 20, 21 top, 22, 24 Quartzite and slate – Rüdesheimer Drachenstein | 14 Peter Böhm, Klaus Friedrich: S. 1 bottom and individual conditions of the vineyards and ser look at the landscape and its wines. You can Deutsches Weininstitut: S. 2, 6 the work of the winemaker. Wine producers and taste the great diversity of the vineyards of the Loess – Winkeler Hasensprung | 16 Florian Muskat: Grafics S. 2, 6, 8 wine appreciating consumers associate these Rheingau and the Hessische Bergstrasse in the Dieter Nesbor: S. 14 right, 18 bottom right Sandy loess – Heppenheimer Steinkopf | 18 qualities with the French term „terroir“. „Le goût wineglass. Jo Schmid: S. 9 bottom Clay – Hattenheimer Schützenhaus | 20 Gudrun Radtke: S. 21 bottom de terre“ means „the taste of the earth“. However, Re-discover the world of the Riesling. Rheingauer Weinbauverband: S. 3, 4 top, 9 top Riverdeposits over limestone – Hochheimer Hölle | 22 Claudia Schmidt: S. 11 bottom, 23 Nina Stoelting: S. 11 top Schloss Vollrads: Title

2 TERROIR HESSEN TERROIR HESSEN 3 Wine regions Rheingau and Hessische Bergstrasse Terroir

Soil texture Rheingau, Hessische Bergstrasse The term terroir is one of the determining and the Riesling factors

HY IS THE RHINE SO BEAUTI- ROVENANCE is very important and tra- FUL? This question often inspires ditional for German and European wines. distribution has a direct influence on the water ba- Wromantic glorifications of the land- PIn recent years, German wine growers lance and therefore the amount of water available scape, culture and the people that live here. The have begun to use the term terroir in this context. to the vine during the vegetation period. Thus, answer also lies in the local wine. The wine re- The direct translation of the French word means plants will experience water stress much more of- gions in Hesse follow the Rhine along the sunny „soil, subsoil, source, provenance, location and ten on sandy or stony soils. In contrast, silty soils, slopes of the Rheingau and Hessische Bergstras- vineyard“. However, the word actually describes e.g. soils on loess, are much better at retaining wa- se. Winemaking is a traditional craft in these re- much more: terroir signifies the overall effects of ter. Vines growing on these soils will only very ra- gions, pioneered by Benedictine and Cistercian natural vineyard conditions plus the influence of rely suffer from low water supply. The wine style monks. Many important inventions and discover- the winemaker on the style of the wine. It inclu- also seems to be greatly affected by soil pH and ies still used by winemakers around the world ori- des site conditions such as soil ty- natural calcium carbonate content. Wines produ- ginated here: late harvesting and select picking, pe, water balance or hours of sun- ced on alkaline, calcareous soils the cabinet cellar and bottling. Today this task Gentle Hills – the Rheingau shine but also the grape variety or „TERROIR have a higher pH-value and tend to is carried out by the School of Viticulture in Elt- specific production and ageing IS THE be better buffered. These wines ta- develop their acidity and aroma. The annual pre- ville and the Geisenheim Research Centre – Ger- procedures. Terroir signifies more ste very different from those pro- cipitation is 560 mm (Rheingau) and 690 mm TASTE OF many’s most important institution for viticulture. than just soil, it means „a sense of duced on acid, carbonate free sites. PROVENANCE.“ (Hessische Bergstrasse) and most of the rain falls place“. The term is not only used The soil calcium carbonate content The Rheingau (3100 ha) and the Hessische during the vegetation period providing the vines for wine but for many other agri- and pH-value as well as the texture Bergstrasse (444 ha) belong to the smaller German with the water they need. cultural products. are determined by the parent mate- wine regions. Riesling is by far the most important The diversity of the vineyard conditions also rial of the soil. grape produced in Hesse: 78% of the Rheingau contributes to the growing conditions of the vines. The climatic conditions of a site, the macro-, me- and 50% of the Hessische Bergstrasse is covered Microclimate and subsoil can vary substantially NATURAL VINEYARD CONDITIONS so- and microclimate, play a central role in deter- by this variety. These regions provide optimum even within a vineyard. The soils have developed All natural conditions that affect the growth of mining the ripening conditions. Degree of lati- growing conditions for the best and most noble from ancient slate and quartzite, magmatic rocks, the grapevines and therefore influence the devel- tude, aspect and slope influences the growth of the white wine in the world.The wines produced here marine sediments or ice-age dusts. Like no other opment and storage of constituents in the grapes grapes. However, it would be inaccurate to base an are both interesting and magnificent. The long grape variety, the Riesling responds to different are summarily known as site factors. Apart from assessment of the influence of climatic factors ripening period of the Riesling grapes ensures that soils and microclimatic conditions. The natural affecting the constituents and aroma of the grapes solely on grape sugar content. Climate also affects they can make full use of mean annual tempera- diversity of the vineyards is one of the strengths (primary aromas), these factors also have a major a large number of other metabolic processes. The tures between 10 and 11°C and over 1600 hours of the wine regions in Hesse and the basis for pro- effect on the processes during fermentation (fer- current climate change is causing a noticeable ducing extraordinary wines. sunshine per year - ample time for the grapes to mentation aromas) and storage (storage aromas) trend in the northern wine growing regions to- of the wine. The interaction between soil, clima- wards earlier ripening of the grapes and increased Companion of the Rhine – Hessische Bergstrasse tic and topographical factors produce grapes and potential alcohol (˚Brix). A higher temperature wines with a defined and unique provenance. during the ripening period is a common factor The soil is the most important single site fac- today. This is why sites with climatic conditions tor. The water and nutrient balance has a profound that promote a slow, but complete ripening of the effect on the wine style and the development of grapes are highly valued. In Germany, it is also aroma. The texture of the soil or the particle size becoming increasingly important to harvest the

4 TERROIR HESSEN TERROIR HESSEN 5 Terroir The project

The project symbol - Climate The project „Terroir Hessen“ abstracted illustration of soil horizons TERROIR The secrets of the Riesling Geology Soil grapes when nights are viticulture also affects the cool and temperatures low terroir. ERROIR IS THE UNITY of soil, topography, climate and the efforts of the in order to preserve the tra- However, some restraint winemaker. Many wine producers and aficionados are convinced of the uni- ditional type of white wine. Topography is required when implemen- que effect of the terroir on wine quality. Although the topic is much deba- (elevation, inclination, exposure) T ting oenological practices. Gro- ted, there is no concrete, scientific evidence. How do the different terroirs in the wing international grape varieties Rheingau and Hessische Bergstrasse affect the style of wine? The current discus- THE INFLUENCE OF THE or using barrique barrels may sions have moved the Rheingau viticultural association and the viticultural associ- WINEGROWER AND VINTNER Correlation of natural be useful additions to winemaking ation Hessische Bergstrasse to initiate the project „Terroir Hessen“. These two asso- terroir factors affecting the ciations have commissioned the Research Centre Geisenheim (FAG) to address this The winegrower modifies the grapevine in the vineyard. in the Rheingau and Hessische natural conditions by implemen- These factors determine the Bergstrasse. However, this has a issue. ting site-optimised viticultural variability of the sites. profound effect on the traditional Since October 2006 the Research Centre has been working in cooperation with Handpicking pre- practices to realize the full poten- character of the wines. experts from the State Agency for Environment and Geology in Hesse (HLUG), the serves the aroma of the grape tial of the vineyard. The production of wines of Vintners producing specific brands will im- Regional Council Darmstadt and the Bureau for Viticulture in Eltville to identify the a specific provenance depends on the selected plement various oenological procedures to mini- variety of sites and their effect on the style of wine. grape sort, optimally an autochthonous grape, mise the environmental effects. The result is a When prevailing climatic conditions are com- parable, the soil can have a unique effect on the RETAINING THE TERROIR– site-specific viticulture and the implementation constant wine style, where provenance cannot be CAREFUL TREATMENT AND ripening conditions of the grapes. In order to veri- of traditional oenological practices. The effects tasted. Only a few international sorts have mana- DEFENSIVE WINEMAKING of environmental conditions and vintage are ged to conquer the market. The project „Terroir fy this effect, six sites with very different soils were selected for producing Riesling wines. The deliberately accepted in order to produce highly Hessen“ is part of the discussion concerning the • Healthy and ripe harvest diverse wines. Of course, this provenance-based merits of provenance versus brand. grapes were provided by the winegrowers. The soils chosen for the project developed from the • Handpicking following parent materials: loess, sandy loess, • Careful transport quartzite, clay and river deposits. The style of the • Whole-grape pressing terroir wines is determined by the specific pro- perties of the soils. The aim of this project was to • Cold stabilization produce wines whose style genuinely reflects the • Cool restrained fermentation site and to ensure that a maximum of the aromas • Careful vinification and bottling formed in the grape are transferred to the must and wine. The natural effects of the site should not be masked or removed. This means that the winemaking procedures are reduced to those that are absolutely necessary. A defensive and conservative oenological approach reduces any inter- ference to a bare minimum.

The grapes require careful treatment. A standardised winemaking procedure carried out at the Department for Oenology Preparing the grapes Only high quality at the FAG ensured reproducible results in relation to site characteristics and typi- grapes make great for pressing. wine. The vintner cality. Restrained fermentation using a neutral ferment resulted in a high degree of inspects the vine. completion. The six sites and their wines are described in full in this brochure.

6 TERROIR HESSEN TERROIR HESSEN 7 The origin of the landscape The origin of the landscape

Castle ruin Ehrenfels The origin of the landscape near Rüdesheim

HE OBSERVANT VISITOR is hardly CENOZOIC ERA – TROPICAL SEA, aware of the eventful history of the land- Geological overview of the wine THE GERMAN GRAND CANYON AND growing regions in Hesse Tscape, which can be traced back to the ICE-AGE DUST Palaeozoic. This ancient history is preserved in The landscape today is dominated by the Up- Frankfurt the long eroded ancient mountain ranges and the per Rhine Graben, a rift in the earth’s crust that aunus Main remains of the shallow seas that once covered the T started to form about 50 million years ago. During Mainz land. The rocks from which our vineyard soils have Rhein the Oligocene (about 30 million years ago), the re- developed can be many thousands or hundreds of Hunsrück Mainzer Becken Darmstadt gion was flooded by a sea. The edge of the Taunus millions of years old. Very often, the rocks vary and the Bergstrasse marked the coastline of this from young to old within a small distance, which Saar-Nahe-Senke sub-tropical sea in which sharks and sea cows results in soils with very different properties. thrived. Although the sea existed for only a few

Neckar Odenwald million years, it left many relics of its existence in Mannheim The Rhine Gorge - the German Grand Canyon PALAEOZOIC ERA – COLLISION the Rheingau: beach gravel, marine sands, clay The Upper Rhine Rift Valley ends near Rüdesheim OF CONTINENTS Heidelberg and limestone. As the sea receded, the Ur-Rhine and the Rhine enters the imposing slate mountains. Tertiaryertiär undand QuaternaryQuartär Permianerm reconquered the rift valley, flowing in a shallow The history of the landscape reaches back to The river has cut a deep gorge into the rocks with Tertiaryertiär-Sedimente sediments DevonDevonian valley through the lowlands of the Rheinische the lower Devonian (about 400 million years ago). very steep walls on either side. Triassicrias und and Jura Jurassic KristallinesCrystalline base Grundgebirge rocks Schiefergebirge towards the North Sea. During Europe and America formed a single continent the Pleistocene (2 million years ago), the Rhei- called Laurussia. The continent Gondwana, con- nische Schiefergebirge was upthrusted forming ages. The alternation between cold and warm sisting of Africa, India, Australia and the Antarc- the low mountain range we see today. The Rhine periods continues until today. Our landscape was tic was located south of ded. During the collision, these sediments were carved its valley into the rising mountains for- formed by intensive weathering and deposition Laurussia. During this overthrusted and folded - forming a large moun- ming the well-known imposing steep-sided nar- of loose sediments. The continuous freezing and period, the low moun- tain range that rose above the sea. The impressive row valley – the Grand Canyon of Germany. The thawing of water fractured the rocks. Thick beds tain range called the relics of these events are seen in the steep dip, Pleistocene also marks the beginning of the ice of wind-blown dust along the slopes of the Rhein- Rheinische Schieferge- folding and foliation of these ancient rocks. The gau and Bergstrasse are an impressive testimonial birge was actually a slates are the characteristic rock of the Rheinische to the power of the wind during the ice ages. shallow ancient sea. Schiefergebirge low mountain range. As the sedi- Storms removed sand and fine dust from the dry Rivers brought huge ments were subjected to high pressures during the riverbeds. This dust dropped out of the wind in amounts of sand and mountain building process their structure was shielded areas creating thick beds of loess. Today clay into this sea basin. changed. loess covers large parts of the Rheingau and the Coarse sand was depo- This „metamorphosis“ turned sand into quart- Slate - a seafloor turned upper slopes of the Hessische Bergstrasse. into stone sited nearer to the coast zite and clay into slate. The terroir of many vine- while clay was transported far out into the sea and yards along the Middle Rhine are influenced by deposited as mud. As the seafloor slowly sank, the „Taunus Quartzite“ and „Hunsrück Slate“ parent sediments accumulated to thicknesses of several materials. During the collision, magma ascended kilometres. At the end of the Devonian, both con- from deep down into the upper crust. These rocks tinents drifted towards each other until they colli- outcrop along the Hessische Bergstrasse. Built on quartzite - Castle Johannisberg overlooks the Rheingau

8 TERROIR HESSEN TERROIR HESSEN 9 Soil Soil

SOIL AND ART The pictures in the cycle „le gout de la terre“, created THE TRESURE HUNTERS The Soil by Nina Stoelting, combine soil constituents with struc- tures of historic vineyards. For many years, the artist Nina Stoelting A vintner on his deathbed lay, from Wiesbaden has been committed to the aesthetic STEINBERG, natural called his children for this to say: translation of wine themes into paintings. stone, earth, pigments, „In our vineyard a buried treasure lies; acrylic paint on wood, just go along and dig it up!“ – 2003, 115 x 165 cm His children called – „where does it lie?“ „Just dig it up“, he says and dies O VINEYARD WITHOUT SOIL. Soil determines water and air permeability and the VINEYARD SOILS - As soon as the old man was lain to rest, is the basis for all that follows. The available soil water capacity. The mineral compo- THE WINEGROWERS WORK his children dug with all their strength. With picks and mattocks Nvine needs support, water and nutrients sition controls the inorganic nutrient content. and spades they toiled, for producing leaves and roots, oxygen for the Colour and stoniness influence the storage and The winegrower forms the soil in the vineyard to create turning over the vineyard´s soil. roots to breath and warmth to promote growth. distribution of warmth in the soil and on the sur- the ideal conditions for the grapevine. Before planting new Not a clod remained unturned they even sifted the earth These vital requirements are provided by the soil face. grapevines, the vineyard soils need to be prepared. Tradi- to examine each stone to a greater and lesser degree. Rootability, water Soils consist of different sized particles, which tionally this involves deep ploughing the soil. This opti- and dragged the hoe across the ground. and nutrient balance, aeration and the warming determine the nutrient balance and the long-term mises the soil properties and provides the grapes with a But in the end no treasure was found and all believed they´d been put on. capacity all depend on the interplay between the reserves - its „mineral power“. The properties of homogenous substrate that is easily penetrated by the various soil components. The soil is the upper- the soil depend on the interplay between many roots. The natural profile of the soil is changed by deep But lo and behold! when one year was over, came a big surprise for all to see, most, weathered part of the earth’s crust. Climate factors: climate, vegetation, topography, parent ploughing and the individual layers or horizons are usual- each vine carried grapes three times over. and soil organisms have turned mineral and orga- material and management practices. Since these ly no longer recognizable. The unaltered soil or parent ma- The sons they learned their lesson well nic substances to soil. The parent material has a factors vary from location to location, this ac- terial is found below the plough horizon. and every year since they dig the soil profound effect on the soil properties. Soil texture counts for the variety of soils. to unearth the treasure and so you see to dig for treasure need not folly be!

(Gottfried August Bürger)

Diversity and fascination - vineyard soils in Hesse SOIL AND WINE STYLE

How does the soil affect the development and ripening of the grapes and how does this effect vary between soils? Water balance, aeration and tem- perature regime of the soil are the most important influencing factors. Does the soil warm quickly or slowly? Can the soil provide the plants with enough water? Are water, nutrients and minerals available when they are needed by the plant? Riesling grapes must ripen slowly for high sugar and substance levels and intense aromas. The climate during the year, meaning the inten- sity and distribution of rain and temperature determines the character of the vintage. However, each site varies with respect to the microclimate as well as wa- ter and nutrient supply. This is why grapes never ripen uniformly. Core soil properties such as texture and cation supply can have a measurable effect on the qualities of the wine. This applies in particular to the extract content and acidity of the wine, as well as the development of aromas.

Soil sampling and assessment

10 TERROIR HESSEN TERROIR HESSEN 11 Soil and wine Lorch

QUARTZITE Lorcher Bodenthal-Steinberg

HE SUMMITS of the Taunus low mountain range consist of a hard rock depends on the inclination and exposure of the Tcalled quartzite. The sandy sediments terrain. The favourable location of this vineyard washed out of long gone mountain ranges were ensures that it receives an optimum level of solar deposited near a coast during the Lower De- radiation from April to October. vonian (about 400 million years Quartzite soils are debris soils. The weathering ago). These deposits were soon QUARTZITE processes during the ice ages compacted to form sandstone, fractured the rock into large which was subjected to high blocks. The grey-brown hortic pressures when it became bu- anthrosol consists of quartzite ried beneath thick layers of gravel and boulders as well as rocks. This resulted in a modi- slate. The proportion of stones fication of the crystalline struc- is high so that the soil is ture of the sandstone turning it only capable of storing small SOIL PROPERTIES into a hard quartzite. This was amounts of water. Deep plough- •low soil water capacity followed by a period of intense ing has resulted in a friable soil with good rootability. The roots • groundwater flow in the subsoil folding during the mountain THE WINE building process when the of the vine can easily penetrate • medium rootability Taunus mountain range was to great depths on their quest • good aeration The wines of the Lorcher Boden- formed. The Taunus Quartzite for water and nutrients. This • very good warming capacity thal-Steinberg are lean, light and very contains more than 90% quartz stony, sandy-silt soil is quick to • no calcium carbonate lively. The wine is strikingly spritzy, (SiO warm and can retain the heat •low mineral nutrient potential with a lively, pleasantly fresh, ting- ling acidity. Fine delicate fruit 2) and very little mica or very well. Although the water feldspar. Therefore, the rock reservoir in the topsoil is quick- aromas of grapefruit with a hint has a very low carbonate and ly depleted, the plants do not of lemon underscore the unpre- Lemon/ Bitterness Grapefruit sumptuous elegance. The quart- iron oxide content. As a result, suffer from water stress. The 5 zite furnishes the wine with mi- the soils derived from this vines find the water they need 4 Mineral Peach/ Apricot nerality and a fine tanginess quartzite have a very low plant in the subsoil, where ground- 3 that never dominates, but har- nutrient content. Hortic anthrosol with water flows down the slope. The 2 quartzite debris monizes with the fine unpre- stoniness and high proportion 1 A calcium carbonate-free, base Acidity Apple The site Bodenthal-Stein- of quartz in the fine earth frac- 0 sumptuous fruit aromas and the nutrient deficient, dry site with lean body. This is an elegant berg is located in the Middle moderate ripening constraints tion of this calcium carbonate- wine with many fine details and Rhine Valley between Ass- free soil means that the mineral Green Grass Mango/ mannshausen and Lorch, at an elevation of 180 m nutrient content is low. Decalcified residual Passion Fruit a great deal of potential. above sea level. The site is steep and faces south- loess in the topsoil improves the water balance Bloomy Rock Melon west. Solar radiation is one of the most important and nutrient supply. This moderately dry site Honey/Caramel factors determining the quality of a vineyard and warms quickly and promotes early ripening.

12 TERROIR HESSEN TERROIR HESSEN 13 Soil and wine Rüdesheim

QUARTZITE AND SLATE Rüdesheimer Drachenstein

HE IMPRESSIVE PANORAMIC VIEW ments. The soil is quick to warm because of the from the Drachenstein embraces Rüdes- low water content and high solar radiation levels Theim with its Rhine islands, Bingen and along the slope. As a result, the vine experiences the Niederwald monument. The very steep site water stress early in the year and must somehow faces southeast and is located at an elevation cope with the available water. The plants react of 220 m above sea level. The by reducing the number and vineyards receive moderately QUARTZITE size of the grapes. Therefore, high levels of solar radiation. this site produces low yields of Quartzite and weathered slates very aromatic grapes. – this soil is a special variant of the quartzite terroir. In many places, the layers of Taunus quartzite are interspaced with slate. The resistant quartzite SOIL PROPERTIES weathers into large boulders. • low soil water capacity Under the subtropical con- • restricted rootability ditions of the Tertiary the slate THE WINE weathered into a red clay-rich • restricted aeration fine earth. Quartzite boulders • very good warming capacity The wines produced in the vineyards of in a clay dominated matrix • no calcium carbonate the Rüdesheimer Drachenstein also have a forms the subsoil at this site. • moderate mineral nutrient fine minerality.However,the character and The grey-brown topsoil also potential temperament of the wine is very different: contains residual loess. The it is fuller in body with a dominating aci- rate of erosion is high along the dity. The aromatic and fine fruity aroma is reminiscent of passion fruit and ripe steep slopes of the Drachen- Lemon/ Bitterness Grapefruit yellow fruits offset by a fine rose scent. stein and much of the soil has 5 Wines produced in this vineyard typi- already been removed. The re- 4 QUARTZITE IN THIN Mineral Peach/ Apricot cally have a distinct aroma of gra- maining thin layer of soil is SECTION 3 phite. very stony and can only store Hortic anthrosol formed on This low-grade metamorphic 2 This indicates that the character of limited amounts of water. In quartzite debris over quartzite sedimentary rock is almost entire- Acidity 1 Apple the wine is influenced not only by the addition to this, the dense, clay and weathered slate. ly made of quartz (white, grey and 0 A calcium carbonate-free, base quartzite but also by the clay-domi- subsoil is very difficult for roots black). Increased pressure and nutrient containing, dry site nated, nutrient-rich weathered slate to penetrate. These are demand- with ripening restrictions temperature has caused the indi- Green Grass Mango/ Passion Fruit in the subsoil. ing conditions for the grapevines. Although the vidual quartz grains to recrystal- soil is acid and contains no calcium carbonate, the lize to form an interlocking mo- Bloomy Rock Melon

clay supplies sufficient nutrients and trace ele- saic of crystals. This produces an Honey/Caramel extremely hard rock.

14 TERROIR HESSEN TERROIR HESSEN 15 Soil and wine Winkel

LOESS Winkeler Hasensprung

HOLLOW WAYS IN THE LOESS HE WINE GROWING REGIONS of Hesse are strongly influenced by loess. Loess particles are angular. This TThis sediment is one of the best sub- explains the high stability of the strates for agricultural land use. Thick layers of spectacular steep loess walls along loess blanket the landscape between Lorchhausen the hillsides or in old hollow ways and Heppenheim. Usually this such as this one near Eltville light coloured, fine sediment LOESS lies hidden from view below the ground. Sometimes the loess is exposed along the steep sides of hollow ways. The ice age dust is found in most of the SOIL PROPERTIES vineyard soils. Storm winds • very high soil water capacity winnowed the fine dust par- • very good rootability ticles from gravel beds deposi- in calcium carbonate. Below • moderate aeration ted by wide rivers. The dust the deep-plough horizon lies • moderate warming capacity dropped out of the wind in the unweathered light coloured THE WINE shielded locations accumula- loess. The friable substrate • contains calcium carbonate ting to thick loess beds. Loess makes it easy for the roots of • large mineral nutrient The exceedingly fertile loess soil provi- mostly consists of silt particles the grapevine to penetrate deep potential des the grapevine with more than it needs. (diameter 0.02 to 0.0063 mm) into the soil to reach water and Thus, it comes as no surprise that this ex- and contains quartz, feldspar, nutrients. The most important cess is reflected in the powerful and rich mica, various clay minerals and property of the loess is its high wine produced here. The harmonious a lot of calcium carbonate. Iron available soil water capacity. blend of distinctive aromas and richness Lemon/ Bitterness Grapefruit is captivating. The wine appears juicy oxides give the loess its yellow- However, this does not prevent 5 with a wide range of different fruit brown colour. air from circulating in the 4 Mineral Peach/ Apricot aromas, dominated by peach and tro- The slightly inclined site pores. The silty soil is easy 3 pical fruits. faces southeast and is located to manage but is also readily 2 All loess wines are characterised at 120 m above sea level. The Hortic anthrosol formed washed away. The natural nu- Acidity 1 Apple by a fine dryness. The complex and vines receive high levels of on loess trient reservoir of the loess pro- 0 A calcareous, base nutrient solar radiation throughout the vides plants with a rich supply unbiased interaction between sweet rich, moist site with best balanced acidity, full body and agree- vegetation period. The original ripening conditions of minerals. The loess provides Green Grass Mango/ soil has been nearly completely washed away on the vines with plenty of water and nutrients Passion Fruit able softness is typical for wines pro- the slopes of the Winkeler Hasensprung site. The even during droughts. Under favourable climatic duced on calcareous soils. A genera- Bloomy Rock Melon hortic anthrosol consists of a mixture of loess and conditions, loess soils are excellent for growing list with plenty of potential, which Honey/Caramel residual loess. This means that the topsoil is rich wine and provide the best ripening conditions. delights both wine lovers and aficio- nados alike.

16 TERROIR HESSEN TERROIR HESSEN 17 Soil and wine Heppenheim

SANDY LOESS Heppenheimer Steinkopf

T THE FOOT OF THE HESSISCHE The large pores between the sand grains allow air BERGSTRASSE, the loess contains a to circulate so that the soil warms early in spring Alarge proportion of sand. This sandy giving the grapevines a head start. The nutrient loess also contains a lot of silt. Strong ice age and mineral content of the sandy loess is slightly winds transported fine sand to the summits of the lower than that of loess soils. Bergstrasse. The sandy loess mostly consists of quartz grains SANDY LOESS and calcareous fragments with other minerals only playing a minor role. The Steinkopf is located north east of Heppenheim at SOIL PROPERTIES the foot of the Hessische Berg- • high soil water capacity strasse above the Hambach val- • very good rootability ley. The west facing gentle • good aeration slope is located 160 m above • good warming capacity sea level. The vineyard receives THE WINE moderately high levels of solar • contains calcium carbonate radiation during the vegetation • moderate mineral nutrient In relation to the characteristic of the wine, period. potential the sandy loess appears to be the little brother PSEUDOMYCELIA The hortic anthrosol de- of the loess.The vines are not quite as well pro- veloped from the sandy loess Secondary, thread-like calcium vided. The soil supplies a little less water and is a „light“ version of a normal carbonate concentrations nutrients, with immediate effects on the wine. loess soil. This available soil The wine is finer and slightly less full-bodied. Lemon/ Bitterness Grapefruit The acidity is balanced but not sharp. The water capacity is slightly lower 5 decreased body of the wine means that the but still sufficient to provide 4 Mineral Peach/ Apricot acidity is more prominent. The wines are adequate amounts of water. The 3 thinner and crisper than those produced friable substrate allows roots to 2 Hortic anthrosol formed on loess soils. The sandy loess also furni- penetrate to great depths, enab- Acidity 1 Apple on sandy loess shes the wine with an agreeable tangy ling plants to tap into additional 0 A calcareous, base nutrient tartness. The delicate fine fruit aromas water reservoirs. Water stress is containing, moist site with are clear but appear more reserved than very rare since the Bergstrasse good ripening conditions LOESS IN THIN SECTION Green Grass Mango/ Passion Fruit those found in loess wines. The distinct receives more rain than the Rheingau. However, Angular loess particles (light grey aroma of nectar is an interesting nuance. water supply can be restricted during the ripening to white) embedded in crystalline Bloomy Rock Melon Sandy loess wines are spring wines that time in autumn. The fine sand fraction ensures calcium carbonate (dark grey). Honey/Caramel evoke associations with the onset of the that the soil is well aerated and quick to warm. A fracture is filled with white cal- flowering of almonds. cium carbonate.

18 TERROIR HESSEN TERROIR HESSEN 19 Soil and wine Hattenheim

This site is located on the Hattenheimer Boxberg, CLAY 140 m above sea level. The west facing, gentle to moderately steep slope receives moderate levels Hattenheimer Schützenhaus of solar radiation during the vegetation period.

SOIL PROPERTIES ROM THE GEOLOGICAL POINT of In many respects, clay soils are extreme. They view it is not so long ago that waves are heavy soils, wet in spring. They can store large • high soil water capacity but restricted availability Fwere crashing against the edge of the amounts of water, but due to the strong ad- • poor rootability Taunus mountain range. Deposits of gravel de- hesion to the clay particles, only a small fraction • restricted aeration, water-logging rived from 20 to 30 million year-old tertiary sedi- is available to plants. The pores of clay soils are • poor warming capacity ments can be found in many very fine, restricting aeration – • low calcium carbonate content places. Finer sediments such as CLAY „the soil does not breath“. Wa- • moderate to high mineral nutrient potential the Cyrena Marl were deposi- ter drains very slowly. In spring, ted in the calmer parts of the the soil is waterlogged and sea. The Mainz Basin was up- aeration is severely restricted. lifted at the end of the Tertiary Therefore, these soils are slow Lemon/ Bitterness Grapefruit period, cutting off the link to to warm. If the plants get „cold 5

the oceans. The fine brackish feet“ because of waterlogging, 4 Mineral Peach/ Apricot sediments from this period their growth is impeded, which 3 are light green, green-grey and in turn leads to an increased 2

blue-green in colour. In many susceptibility to diseases. The Acidity 1 Apple regions, the Cyrena Marls have high clay content and density of 0 THE WINE subsequently been decalcified. this soil impedes root pene- Heavy clay might be expected to yield a Clays and clay marls determine tration. Roots cannot grow deep Green Grass Mango/ Passion Fruit the soil properties in many fa- enough to obtain the required stately, opulent wine. However, the grapes mous vineyards around Hatten- amount of water and nutrients. ripen slowly on this cool, pure clay soil. The Bloomy Rock Melon heim (Nussbrunnen, Wissel- The clay soils dry out in late weak acidity of the soil is indicative of a limi- Honey/Caramel brunnen), Erbach (Marcobrunn) summer, which leads to delayed ted nutrient supply.The resulting wine is less and Hochheim (Domdechaney, ripening of the grapes. The weighty than the heavy soil would lead to Hölle). mineral nutrient potential is expect.The wine possesses a tangy acidity Multicoloured mica-rich clays the one positive factor. Large and a reserved aroma of exotic fruits (pink and sands were mixed during amounts of plant available nu- grapefruit) with hints of apple or orange deposition. The subsoil consists trients are adsorbed to the clay peel.The low calcium carbonate content of the soil means cannot buffer the aci- of the decalcified clay of the Hortic anthrosol formed on particles. Cyrena Marl. The mottling of tertiary clay – A calcium dity, yielding a wine that is straightfor- the soil developed after the sea carbonate poor, base nutrient ward, direct and pithy. Clay soil wines containing wet site with are typified by a complex minerality, fine had receded. The rise and fall of restricted ripening conditions. the groundwater level decalcified the marl. The hint of bitterness and a unique salty, tangy aroma. alternating oxidising and reducing conditions Fossils from the Cyrena Marl (named after caused iron minerals to discolour. the brackish water mollusc): Polymesoda and snails (left granulolabium, right: Potamides, below: Keepingia)

20 TERROIR HESSEN TERROIR HESSEN 21 Soil and wine Hochheim

RIVERDEPOSITS OVER LIMESTONE Hochheimer Hölle

OUNG RIVER DEPOSITS, only a few thousand years old, overlie the ice- Yage gravels of the river valleys. These sandy or silty deposits are nutrient-rich, fertile lo- cations offering best conditions for grapevines if climatic and LIMESTONE FROM THE RIVERDEPOSIT hydrological conditions permit. HOCHHEIMER HÖLLE The microclimate of the ripa- The name Hölle (hell) is derived rian zones often differs notice- from the old German word for ably from the locations along steep slope and has nothing to the slopes. On the one hand, do with hell. cold air descends the slopes and collects in the valleys. The bottom of the valley is cold in SOIL PROPERTIES the mornings, the humidity is • moderate soil water capacity higher and the mists linger • good rootability in topsoil in spring and autumn before THE WINE dissipated by the sun. This can • good aeration impede shoot growth and • moderate warming capacity The grapevines benefit from the ripening. On the other hand, zone is restricted to the river • high calcium carbonate content ample supply of water and nutrients the humidity is elevated in the deposits. Because the site is in the subsoil to yield a wine that is well endowed hot summer weather creating a located several metres above • moderate mineral nutrient potential with fruity aromas and body. The unique warm humid climate. the river level it is not affected sandy silt soil in combination with The gently sloped vineyard by groundwater. the clay furnishes the wine with a is located 90 m above sea level The rootability and aeration lasting, sustaining taste, which Lemon/ Bitterness Grapefruit merges into a fine bitterness. on the banks of the river Main. of the topsoil is good. The deep 5 The high extract content of Solar radiation is moderate to plough horizon contains large 4 Mineral Peach/ Hortic Anthrosol formed on Apricot the wine is a direct effect of high, however morning mists amounts of added humus and 3 calcareous river sands and the clayey calcareous topsoil reduce the positive effects of clays over tertiary limestone calcareous clay substrate. The 2 debris. A calcium carbonate and the limestone beds in the this climatic factor. Cold air de- raised calcium carbonate con- Acidity 1 Apple and base nutrient-containing scending from the upper slopes tent could be problematical. 0 subsoil.The calcium carbonate wet site with good ripening also ensures that the elevated can delay the ripening process. conditions The clay between the limestone acidity of the wine is well-buf- The sandy silt Main river deposits are calcareous contains large amounts of trace elements. The soil Green Grass Mango/ Passion Fruit and rich in nutrients. The subsoil consists of a provides the plants with a good and balanced fered. very dense layer of tertiary limestone debris, supply of nutrients and water. The microclimate Bloomy Rock Melon which is near impervious to roots. Thus, the root may cause delayed ripening. Honey/Caramel

22 TERROIR HESSEN TERROIR HESSEN 23 Vorwort Vorwort

Hallgarten TERROIR HESSEN

SPONSORS AND PARTNERS: Rheingauer Weinbauverband e.V. | Weinbauverband Hessische Bergstrasse e.V. | Forschungsanstalt Geisenheim | Hessisches Landesamt für Umwelt und Geologie (Dezernat G3 Bodenschutz, Bodeninformation) | Regierungspräsidium Darmstadt - Dezernat Weinbauamt | Private Fachhochschule Fresenius | Hessisches Ministerium für Umwelt, ländlichen Raum und Verbraucherschutz | Stiftung zur Enjoy the difference! Förderung der Land- und Forstwirtschaft | Stiftung Hof Geisberg | NASPA-Nassauische Sparkasse | Rheingauer Volksbank | Wiegand-Glas | Alcoa

PUBLISHER: AUTHORS: DESIGN, LAYOUT, COOPERATING Gesellschaft für Peter Böhm, Stefan Muskat, REALISATION: WINEGROWERS: Rheingauer Weinkultur mbH Otmar Löhnertz Florian Muskat, Aarbergen • Rebenveredelung Antes, Kloster Eberbach Forschungsanstalt Geisenheim (www.muskat-design.de) Heppenheim Pfortenhaus Fachgebiet Bodenkunde PRINTED BY: •Weingut S. Gerhard, D-65346 Eltville am Rhein und Pflanzenernährung Druckerei Koehler + Hennemann Hattenheim Rüdesheimer Str. 18-20 Weinbauverband Wiesbaden •Weingut Gerster-Wagner, D-65366 Geisenheim Hessische Bergstrasse e.V. Hattenheim TRANSLATED BY: Kettelerstr. 29 EXPERT CONSULTANTS: •Weingut G. Künstler, Mike Walker D-64646 Heppenheim Klaus Friedrich, Hochheim Karl-Josef Sabel, Dieter Nesbor •Weingut Mohr Erben, PROJECTMANAGER: 1. Edition September 2008 Hessisches Landesamt Lorch Otmar Löhnertz für Umwelt und Geologie All rights reserved, especially •Weingut P. Ohlig, Forschungsanstalt Rheingaustraße 186 in relation to copying, reprinting Geisenheim Geisenheim D-65203 Wiesbaden and translation of the text. •Weingut Prinz von Hessen, Johannisberg www.terroir-hessen.de B 00108 - 0908 - e TERROIR – TASTE THE ORIGIN