To Be Auctioned: the Wine of the Century, As Well As Hindenburg's
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To be auctioned: the Wine of the Century, as well as Hindenburg’s Cup of Honour, from Gut Hermannsberg – 1921er Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube Trockenbeerenauslese This is a monumental triad of historical oppressive compensation payments were greatness, phenomenal vintage and top adjusted to fit the economically weakened vineyard site. Gut Hermannsberg is not only condition of the German state, which putting the finest in winegrowing artistry – provided some element of relief. In addition, reaching across generations – on display, the French removed themselves from the but first and foremost presenting a Riesling Ruhr in 1925, and British forces left the as the example of perfect maturity. Who will Rhineland in 1926. Adenauer seized the become the new owner of this legendary occasion to patriotically proclaim: “In wine? Going once, going twice, Sold!... grateful admiration, Mr President, in the name of all our citizens, and in the name of the entire Rhineland, I would like to welcome The history: you to the freed city of Cologne.” the wine of the 1926 Rhineland liberation ceremony Famous persons wear decorations and medals. Similarly, this wine bears a banderol around the bottle neck. In ornate, decorative script that is still clearly legible, one reads: Hindenburg and Adenauer leaving Cologne after the liberation festivities, on 22nd of March 1026. © Archiv der Stiftung Bundeskanzler-Adenauer-Haus Was it simply by chance that a wine from the estate that was to become Gut “Presented as a celebratory libation to honour the President Hermannsberg was served? Hardly likely – of Germany, General Field Marshall von Hindenburg, at the Hindenburg had on many occasions visited liberation festivities in Cologne, on 21 March 1926.” the Royal Prussian State Domaine, and was very fond of their wines. For decades, generations of managing directors at the On that occasion, Paul von Hindenburg was estate stood watch over the triumphal bottle visiting the Lord Mayor of Cologne, Konrad from the 1921 vintage, under ideal Adenauer. A sojourn rich in symbolism: after conditions in the rarities cellar. Current GM the end of the First World War, British forces Karsten Peter confirms its unique nature: occupied the Rhineland, and later the French “This is the only bottle that has this special seized the Ruhr Valley – as security for war- history. It has been preserved in perfect reparation payments that were not yet condition, and will be auctioned with its forthcoming. After ferocious strikes, unrest original label, cork and certificate.” and instances of violence, the previously Vintage of the century: the 1921 harvest with a record must- weight of 308 degrees Oechsle It stands as the greatest German vintage of the twentieth century, and one of the greatest of all time: 1921. Mentioned in the same sentence with the vintages 1949, ’59 and ’76. Among other comments stands written in the annals of the domain, set down in truly terse Prussian fashion: The 1921 vintage is characterised by extreme dryness and heat. (...) This weather was extremely The “Schatzkammer” at Gut Hermannsberg shows rarities favourable for the development of the vines back to the beginning of the 20th century. and the grapes. The 1921 vintage inspired writers and poets to hymns of praise, like the famous words of Berlin journalist Kurt Tucholsky: A 1921er as deep as the sound of The cult vineyard: the Kupfergrube as a a bell. Greatest good fortune... The fully marquee for fully ripened Rieslings mature and raisin-like, shrivelled Riesling Once upon a time a copper mine, today an grapes from the vineyard Kupfergrube were internationally renowned vineyard site, and harvested at a phenomenal 308 degrees recognised as a Grosse Lage by the VDP. In Oechsle. And a wine needs only measure his 1971 World Atlas of Wine, critic Hugh 150° Oechsle to be designated as Johnson characterised the Kupfergrube as Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA). the most splendid site on the Nahe. The terraced vineyard was created on the instructions of the Prussian government beginning in 1902, a process involving countless hours of manual labour. For the designation Trockenbeerenauslese the grapes need to show 150 Oechsle degrees. The TBA about to be auctioned doubles this figure and more, to this day a record must- weight for the estate. Filled with admiration, oenologue Karsten Peter states: The legendary Hermannsberg vineyard. © Uwe Schiereck “It was with the 1921 vintage that the Kupfergrube attracted worldwide attention Gut Hermannsberg currently owns twelve for the first time. This was a masterful hectares of the total 14ha under vines in the achievement on the part of my predecessor, site, where the vines root themselves deep to escort this wine of 308° Oechsle perfectly into a volcanic stone called melaphyre. The through the process of fermentation.” extremely mineral-driven wines from this site present themselves a bit reticent initially, but the excellence shows The auction: and who will become the consistently with age. The couple who own proud owner of this bottle? Gut Hermannsberg, Dr Christine Dinse and Going once, going twice, Sold! Jens Reidel, along with GM Karsten Peter, Ever since the very beginning of the made the decision to auction the 1921er for VDP.Nahe wine auctions – and before that this reason: “Rieslings are made for the Association of Natural Wine Auctioneers maturity; only in maturity do they show their – the former Staatsdomaine and today’s Gut full potential. And we are beginning to Hermannsberg has broken and continues to suspect that the time is ripe for a change in break records. One year ago a magnum thinking. Give the Rieslings more time!” bottle of 2015er Kupfergrube Trockenbeerenauslese (236 degrees Oechsle) changed owners for a gross price of 13,600€. The renowned publication ‘Wine Advocate’ had already lauded the wine with the highest score of 100 points. Celebrities and politicians decorate their banquets and receptions with the estate’s noble wines. For example, the 1959er Kupfergrube Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese was served in 1981 at the wedding reception of Diana Spencer and heir to the British throne Charles Prince of Wales. Dare we ask, on what occasion the 1921er Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube The Kupfergrube vineyard. © Uwe Schiereck Trockenbeerenauslese will be drunk? Karsten Peter is feeling a bit melancholy to see the bottle go, but is at the same time Karsten Peter tasted the 1921er proud of this treasure. He will personally Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube present the bottle at the auction: Trockenbeerenauslese in 2017, and felt the wine to be at its peak: ”I feel deep humility with respect to this wine, and am very thankful that I was able “The visual impression: dignified and to experience it in top form. And you might elegant. This nearly 100-year-old wine ask: would I advise the buyer to drink the shimmers bronze in colour with golden- wine? Absolutely!” yellow highlights. The nose: extraordinarily fresh and phenomenally complex. A whiff of orange rind sails out among the aromas of Spanish chestnuts and honey. I can smell cracknel and fine notes of tobacco. There’s only a bit of raisin on the nose. On the palate: once more I am impressed with the freshness and vigour of the wine. One might almost call it youthful. The dynamic tension Auction VDP. Nahe & VDP.Ahr is clearly perceptible – sweetness and acidity Sunday 23 September 2018 have found their balance. The structure of Auction from 11.00–13.00 the wine is tightly woven, elegant like the Römerhalle Bad Kreuznach finest silk. And the finish is simply endless.” www.vdp-nahe.de .