Index as a seam finish 267 in men's trousers 370 a as a casing for boning 320 button loops adjustable waists 363-364, 371- to bind a waist 356-357 to make 35-37 375 bias cut 15-17 , 64 at centre back neck 57 all-in-one in-seam pockets 220 bias strips 18-19 next to collar 105 alterations for over 50's 1-4 binding 20-25 for lace 182 large bust 1 to sew 21 for velvet 185 rounded back 2 machine foot 21 with frogs 258-263 close in neckline 2 using tape or ribbon 22 for strapless tops 321 thick waist 2-3 around curves 22 buttons flat bum/big tum 3 around corners 22-23 to sew on 26-27 different sides 4 mitring 22-23 reinforcement 27 appliqué sheet 246 binding a slit 24 positioning 31 armhole as a facing 24-25 of rouleau 259-260 sewing sleeve in 62, 311-312 Hong Kong finish 267 buttons and buttonholes 26-37 and neck facing 96-98 using seam allowance 267, fitting 312-314, 317 315 measuring 314-315 bound shirt cuff placket 281 c Armoflexxx interfacing 352-353, around waist 356-357 cartridge pleats 206-208 367 blanket stitch 137-138 casings arms, large upper 314 blind hem stitch 139, 145 around edge of hoods 60 arrow head 343 blind hem, to sew 144-145, 147 stitched on 125-126 blind herringbone stitch 139, 145 for elastic waists 358-365 blood, removing stains 318 carriers, belt 5-7 b bodice, boned 320-324 catch stitch 139, 145 body, measurements 71, 169-171 centred zip 381, 383 backstitch 137 boning 320, 323 backstitching, machine 264-265, chain piecing 272 bound buttonholes 33-35 chain weights for hems 149 276 box pleats 198, 202, 291 Banrol interfacing 352-353, 367 chainstitching, unpicking 278 bridal chalk, tailors 70, 318 bar tack 211, 213, 218, 220, 394 veils, gathering 123 Barbara Hellyer 45-46, 287 channel seam 275-276 train with godet 132, 183 checked fabrics basting 271 brocade 184 beaded lace 184 to cut 76-80 broomstick pleats 209 to pleat 204 beading 189-192 buckles, belt 8-10, 11 belt loops 5-7 sewing, to match 270 buckram 9, 367 Chinese closures 258-263 belts 8-14 bust improvers 322 tie belts 8 clapper 245 butted seam 275 clipping curves 269 buckle belts 8-10, 11 buttonhole elastic 363-364 contour belts 10, 328 concealed front 103-108 buttonholes concealed zip 401-402 attaching buckles 11 positioning 28, 30 petal belts 12 collars 38-60 cutting 30 types of 38 plaited belts 12-14 troubleshooting 30-31 inside a strapless top 324 parts of 38 handmade 32-33 methods of attaching 39 bias, definition of 15, 64 keyhole 32-33 bias binding fit 39-40 buttonhole stitch 32-33, 138 to change a garment's 40 making and applying 20-25 slit in seam 33 as a facing 24-25 flat collars 40-42 bound 33-35 standing collars 42-48 hemming with 144-145 button loops 35-37
The Dressmaker's Companion Index 2
shirt collars 42-47 double pointed 82-83 preparing to cut 64-67 men's shirt collars 44-45 French darts 83 shrinkage test 65 shirt collar stays 46-47 sewing by overlocker 83 determining right side 66 mandarin collar 47 in two layers of fabric 84 straightening ends 65-66 wing collar 47 shaped darts 84 one-way 67 Nehru collar 47-48 in interfacing 84 patterned 67 roll collar 48-51 in striped fabrics 84-85 checks and stripes 76-80, 270 rever collar 51-56, 327 altering 85-88 fur 148, 187-189, 402 neck darts in 56 to remove 88 dupion silk 179-180 tie collars 56-58 in shoulder and neck 88-89, tweed, novelty 180-181 knit collars 58, 109-113 295 satin 181 hoods 58-60 bust 1, 83, 88, 90-91 lace 181-184 construction, order of 61-63 gape darts 89-90 brocade 184 contortion pleats 209 darts in design 90-91 velveteen 184 corded rouleau 258 elbow 90, 310 panne velvet 184 corded tucks 331 lapped, for lace 183 velvet 184-185, 250 corduroy 185 dauber 247 velour 184-185 corners design ease 170 corduroy 185 binding around 22-25 Dior pleat 202, 335-336 sheers 185-186, 315 of shirt collars 43 directional stitching 328 taffeta 187 mitring 172-176 double breasted 99 metallics 187 piping 197 double piping 197 facings 92-98 sewing 267-268 draping 193 using bias binding for 24-25 trimming and turning 269 drawcord waist 358-359, 362 waist facing 62, 95-96 of sleeve vent 315-316 drawcord elastic 362 extended facings 92, 93 of vents and splits 333-344 dupion silk 179-180 patternmake 92-93 cowboy shirt pockets 231-232 to sew 94-95 cowboy shirt yokes 293-294 troubleshooting 95 crew neck (t-shirt neck) 58 e all-in-one 96-98 crotch piecing, trousers 73 ease (amount of in garment) 170, faced scallops 98 crotch seam binding 397 305 topstitching 327 crotch seam, to sew 62 ease (sewing) top of with zip 379-380, 384- cufflinks 288 convert dart to 90-91 386 cuffs, shirt 279, 285-289 seams with 270 false hems 151 cuffs, trousers 149-150 in armholes 308-309, 311-312 fast sewing 272 curved jet pockets 231-232 elbow 310 felling foot 273-274 curved slot seam 276 Easter Egg patch pockets 216-217 finger pressing 249 cut away pockets 224-228 edgestitching 325 fittings cutting 64-80 elastic belts 11 doing 62-63 on the bias 15-17, 69 elastic button loops 37 preparing for 195, 321 preparing to 64-67 elastic waists 359-365 afterwards 276-277 using scissors 70-71 elbow darts 90, 310 fitting notes for position pattern 69-70 ESL tape 155, 347 over 50's 1-4 layouts 71-74 extended facings 92, 93 bias cut 15-17 knits 75-76 extension in-seam pockets 220- collars 39-40, 56 stripes and checks 76-80 222 darts 84, 85-89 eyelets 11 gape darts 89 wheelchair bound 150 d pleats 201-202 darts 81-91 f shirt yokes 291-292 under collars 56 shoulder pads 295-296 fabric kimono sleeve 306-307 to sew 81 prewashing 64-65 troubleshooting 81-82 raglan sleeve 308 pressing 82, 248
The Dressmaker's Companion Index 3
armholes 312-313 with a special foot 123 hems 142-151 set-in sleeve 312-314 using an overlocker 123 lettuce leaf 17, 146 strapless top 321-322 smocking 124 stitches for 138-139, 145 flap pockets 213-214, 230-231, gathers on gathers 124 blind hem 142, 144-145, 147 237-239 using elastic 124-125 pressing 142, 248-249 flat collars 38, 40-42 shirring 124-125 hem allowance 142 flat felled seam 273-275 through a channel 125-126 determine hemline 143 flat pattern drafting 193 ruffles 126 truing the sides 144 fly front zips 391-397 ruching 126-127 sewing a hem 144-145 foldback cuffs 289 ruched trim 127 narrow hems 146-147 French cuffs 288-289 sleeves 127, 309 twin needle hem 147-148 French dart 83 from shirt yokes 127-128, 291 deep hems 148 French seam 272-273 godets 129-133 in pleats 148, 199 French tack 160 pattern for 129 fast hems 148 fringing for novelty tweed 181 to sew in a seam 129-130 in jackets 148 frog fastenings 258-263 to sew in a slit 130-131 in leather 148 front button stands 99-121 lining a 131 in fur 148 "wrap" explained 99 pleated 131-132 shortening jeans 148-149 to change 99 centre back 132 rock 'n' roll t-shirt hem 149 fold-under stand 100 with rounded tops 132-133 chain weighted 149 double fold stand 100-101 with square ends 133 trouser cuffs 149-150 separate 101 troubleshooting 133 wheelchair trouser hems 150 faced 102 gored skirts, grainline 68 false hems 151 men's shirt 102-103 gorge line 38, 56, 327 herringbone stitch 138-139, 267 concealed front 103-108 grading seam allowances 269 herringbone twill tape placket with pleat 118 grainline 67-68, 69 binding with 22-23, 356-357 all-in-one 119-120 gusseted pockets 217-220 on shirt collars 45 front stands and tab fronts 99-121 gussets, underarm 306 tab fronts 114-115 full upper arms 314 for seam neatening 267 fur hidden slip stitch 138, 145, 147 cutting 67, 188 h Hong Kong seam finish 267 hemming 148 hand opening placket 120-121 hoods 58-60, 402 sewing 187-189 handsewing essentials 134-141 hooks and eyes 140-141, 370-371 zips in 402 holding a needle 134 hooks, clamp on 370-371 fusible interfacing 152-157 thimbles 134 fusible web 148, 155-156 threading a needle 134-135 knotting the end 135-136 i finishing off 136-137 in seam pockets 220-224 g running stitch 137 interfacing 152-157 grosgrain ribbon backstitch 137 behind buttonholes 28 binding with 22, 23 blanket stitch 137-138 buying and storing 65, 155 as inner belt 324 buttonhole stitch 138 cutting out 70, 153 reinforcing split 343 hidden slip stitch 138, 145 darts in 84 as waistline binding 356-357 herringbone stitch 138-139, types of 152, 155-156 gaping armhole 317 144-145, 267 where to interface 152-153 gathering 122-128 blind hem stitch 139, 145 applying 154 convert darts to 91 whipstitch 139, 267 troubleshooting 154-155 amount of fabric req 122 press studs 140 specialty 155-156 how to 122 hooks and eyes 140-141, 370 for waistbands 155, 347 over long areas 122 overcasting 267 for jackets and coats 156-157 on heavy fabrics 122 top of splits 343 Banrol/Armoflexxx 352-353 pressing 123, 249 ham holder, tailors 246 men's waistbanding 368-369 over a cord 123 header, sleeve 299, 304 interlining 159 inverted pleats 198, 202, 291
The Dressmaker's Companion Index 4 invisible seams for lace 183 lacing, strapless top 320-321, 323 waistbands 365-375 invisible zips 377-381 ladder stitch 138 fly fronts 391-397 invisibly applied patch pockets lapels, topstitching 56, 327, 328 metallic fabric 187 215-217 lapped seam 275 minimum wearing ease 170 lapped seams for lace 183 mitres 172-176 lapped zip 381-383, 384-385 in binding 22-23 j large bust alteration 1, 321 for a trim or braid 172 jackets large upper arms 314 for a hem 172-173 buttonholes 32-35 layouts for cutting 71-74 using a template 173-174 Nehru collar 47-48 leather edges 174 roll collar 48-51, 56 hemming 148 borders 174-175 rever collar 51-52, 54-56, 327, interfacing for 152 bands 175-176 328 pressing 250 splits 342 concealed front 105-108 "rouleau" 258 mock fly front 397-399 hemming 148 lapped seam 275 mock French seam 273 interfacing 156-157 linings 158-168 moiré taffeta 187 lining 163-168 for godets 131 inside jet pocket 233-236 suitable fabrics 158-159 shoulder pads 295-303 interlining 159 n sleeve header 299, 304 underlining 159 nap 66-67 2pce sleeve with vent 315-317 skirts and trousers 159-162 neck darts 88-89, 295 back vent 333-342 with facings 160-162 neck dart under collars 56 jeans dresses and tops 161, 162 needleboard 246 hem allowance 142, 145 sleeves 161 needles, hand 134 shortening 148-149 pleated skirts 162, 198 negative ease 170 back pockets 212 vests 162-163 notch of collar 38, 56, 327 topstitching 326 jackets 163-168, 316 notches, on patterns 74, 346 topstitching fly 393 coat, free hanging 168 jet pockets 229-236 patch pocket 212 jump hem, lining 161, 164-165 strapless top 320, 323-324 vents 336-341 o junctions, matching 270, 380 oil, removing stains 318 splits 342-344 lipstick, removing stains 318 open ended zips 399-402 loop turner 258 organ pleating 206, 208-209 k L square 193 overcasting 139, 267 keyhole buttonholes 32-33 overhand stitch 139, 267 kick pleats 333-342 overlocker 177-178 kimono sleeves 305-307 darts 83 knife pleats 198-206 m gathering with 123-124 knits maternity clothes 91, 118, 227, rolled hem 146-147 neckbands 58 363-364 neatening 266 cutting 75-76 measurements and ease 169-171 over snipped edge 269 knitted collars 109, 111-113 taking measurements 169 junctions, matching 270 twin needle hem for 147-148 ease 170 unpicking 277-278 patterns for 170 mens clothes rouleau 257, 258 men's shirt collars 44 zips in 388 collar stays 46-47 p knot at end of thread 135-136 shirt front stand 102-103 trouser hems 143-145 panne velvet 184-185 knots in thread, removing 136 party fabrics 179-192 trouser cuffs 149-150 cuff placket 281-283 patch pockets 210-220 shirt cuffs 288 patternmaking 193-195 l French cuffs 288-289 tools 193-194 lace 181-184 shirt yokes 290-294 advice 194 cataloguing patterns 194
The Dressmaker's Companion Index 5
test garments 195 welt 236-237 pattern pieces flap 237-239 s marks on 67-68 windowpane welt 239-243 safari patch pockets 214 transferring marks 74-75 zip 243-244 satin 30, 181 made in cardboard 193-194 polo collar 58 scalloped edge 98, 148, 275 patterns for things to make pounding block 245 scissors and shears 70-71 pressing mitt 253 preshrinking fabric 64-65 seam binding 267 seam roll 254, 255 press mitt 245-246, 251, 253 seam ripper (unpicker) 277-278 tailors ham 256 pressing 245-256 seam roll 245, 251-252, 254, 255 small shoulder pad 300 in factories 63 seams 264-278 large (coat) shoulder pad 301 tools 245-246 lapped, for lace 183 large (coat) raglan pad 302 techniques 247-250 unpicking 251, 277-278 raglan pad 303 troubleshooting 250-251 pinning 264 sleeve header 304 tool patterns 251-256 plain 264-265 Petersham 355, 357-358 pressing cloth 245 seam allowance 265-266 pin tucks 329-331, 332 prick stitch 384 neatening 266-267 pinking shears 266 princess line sewing corners 267-268 pins 70, 264 for large busts 1, 321 sewing curves 268 pipe organ pleats 206, 208-209 pressing 248 trimming and grading 268-269 piping 196-197, 113 sewing curves 268 understitching 269 placket, hand opening 120-121 felled seams on 274 clipping and notching 269 placket, front 99-120 topstitching 326 easing 270 placket, shirt cuff 279-285 puffed sleeves 123, 127, 309 stitch-in-the-ditch 270-271, plaids 349-350 cutting 76-80 matching junctions 270, 380 pleating 204 r taut sewing 271 sewing, to match 270 raglan sleeves 305, 307-308 sew a folded edge 271 plain seam 264-265 Raja cloth 200, 245, 250 tacking 271 pleats 198-209 reinforcement buttons 27 stay stitching 271-272 pleated godets 131-132 rever collar 51-56, 327 stabilizing 271-272 hemming 148, 199 reversible garments fast sewing 272 lining pleated skirts 162, 198 vests 162-163 other types of 272-276 types of 198 shoulder pads for 296 troubleshooting 276 unpressed 198-199 Rigelene boning 320, 323 after a fitting 276-277 topstitched 199-200 rivet buttons 26 self-bound seam 267, 315 pressed 200 rock 'n' roll t-shirt hem 149 selvedge 64 professional pleating 200 roll collars 48-51, 56 serger 177-178 fitting notes 201-202 rolled hems 146-147 sequins 189, 191-192 joining pleated pieces 201 roll line, collar 38 sew-in interfacing 152-157 inverted with underlay 202 rouleau 257-263 shanks, for buttons 26-27 zips in 203, 388 belt loops 6 shaped belts 10 calulating 203-206 loops for buttons 36 shaped bias binding 22 sunray 206 to cut and sew 257-258 shaped waistbands 355-358 cartridge 206-209 stretch fabrics 257, 258 shawl collars 48-51 pipe organ 206, 208-209 loop turner 258 sheer fabric broomstick 209 in leather 258 facings for 92 contortion 209 filled with cord 258 sewing with 185-186 pockets with 214, 217-220 ball buttons 258-260 armhole seam finish 267, 315 pockets 210-244 ornaments 258-263 seams for 272-273 patch 128, 210-220 ruched trim 127 sleeves in 315 in seam 220-224 ruching 126-127 shirring 124-125 cut away 224-228, 328, 371 ruffles 126 shirt cuffs and plackets 279-289 slashed 228-244 running stitch 137 jet 229-236
The Dressmaker's Companion Index 6
plackets, 7 types 280-285 lining 161, 165 tailors ham 245, 252, 256 cuff pattern 285-286 kimono 305-307 tailors ham holder 246 cuff, to sew 286-288 raglan 307-308 tailors tacks 75 French cuffs 288-289 set-in 308-317 tape, cotton fold back cuffs 289 one and two piece 309-310 darts 84 troubleshooting 289 large upper arms 314 necklines 89, 321, 323 shirt yokes 290-294 in sheer fabric 315 gathering onto 124 shirts 2pce jacket sleeve 315-317 waists 95-96, 271-272 bias cut 16 set-in variations 317 cut away pockets 226 buttonholes 29-30, 31 slipstitch (hidden) 138 armholes 317 collar 42-47 slits in hem 342 tapering hems 144 cutting layouts 73-74 slot seam 275-276 taut sewing 271 front stand 99-108 slotted waistband interfacing 155, tartan maternity 118 347 cutting 76-80 hemming 142-143 smocking 124 pleating 204 adding gathers to 127, 291 splits 342-344 sewing, to match 270 cuffs and plackets 279-289 stand(ing) collars 38, 42-48 tear-away stabilizer 96, 156, 272 yokes 290-294 stain removal 318-319 test garment 195 shoulder darts 88-89, 295 stay stitching 271-272 thimble 134 shoulder pads 295-304 stay tape, cotton thread eyes for hooks 140-141 types of 295 darts 84 thread button loops 37 positioning 295-296 necklines 89, 321, 323 thread, securing 136-137 in jackets 295-296 waists 95-96, 271-272 thread, topstitching 325-326 for reversible garments 296 gathering onto 124 tie belt 8 covering 296-297 cut away pockets 226 tie collars 56-58 adjusting pattern for 297 armholes 317 toile 195 making 297-298 steam stick 246 topstitching 325-328 sleeve header 299, 304 stretch fabrics see knits lapels 56, 327, 328 patterns for 300-303 strapless tops 320-324 darts 83 silk 30, 179-180 stitch-in-the-ditch 270, 349 twinneedle hem 147-148 skirts stitching, unpicking 251, 277-278 pleats 199-200 alterations for over 50's 2-4 striped fabrics edgestitching 325 bias cut 15-17 to cut 76-80 how to 325-326 waist facing 62, 93, 95-96, 356 darts in 84-85 gallery of 326 cutting layouts 71-72 to pleat 204 notes on 326-327 adjusting flare 72 sewing, to match 270 troubleshooting 327 for large figures 91 sunray pleats 206 directional stitching 328 gathered 128 swing tack 160 t-shirt neck 58 with a train 132, 183 tracing wheel 194 hemming 143 t troubleshooting lining 160-161 tab fronts 108-118 buttonholes 30-31 box pleated 202 interfacing in 109 fabric shortage 72-74 waistbands 345-365 using knitted collars 109 darts 81-82 zips 376-388 simple tab front 109-111 facings 95 skivvy neck 58 tab with facing 112-113 facings, all-in-one 98 slashed pockets 228-244 troubleshooting 113 tab fronts 113 sleeve board 245 with piping 113 godets 133 sleeve header 299, 304 made from a slit 113-117 knots in thread 136 sleeveless, facing 96-98 free-hanging 117-118 interfacing 154-155 sleeves 305-317 table pressing 249 pressing 250-251 elbow darts 90, 310 tacking 271 French seams 273 sleeveless 96-97, 317 taffeta 187 seams 276 adding gathers to 127 tailor board 246 cuffs 289 tailors chalk 70, 318 sleeves, set-in 312-314
The Dressmaker's Companion Index 7
topstitching 327, 328 waistbands 350-351 v y zips, invisible 378-379 velour 184-185 yokes, shirt 290-294 zips, regular 384 Velvaboard 246 yokes, skirt fly fronts 394 velvet 184-185, 250 to make waist of bigger 3 trousers velvet, panne 184 order of construction 62 fitting for over 50's 3 velveteen 184 facing pattern for 93 beltloops 5-7 vents and splits 333-344 stabilizing waist 95-96, 271- crotch seam 62 2pce jacket sleeves 315-317 272 cutting layouts 72-73 unlined vents 333-335 with gathered skirt 128 hemming 143-144 back pleats 335-336 with pleated skirt 202 cuffs 149-150 lined skirt vent 336-342 sewing curved seam 268 lining 159-160 splits 342-344 3 ways to sew 356 pockets 210-244 vests, lining 162-163 top of zip 379-380, 384-386 waistband 345-375 V necks, adjusting 2, 89-90 yokes, trousers back 350-351 fly front 391-397 truing darts 85-86 hems 144 w z casings 360 wadding, as sleeve header 299 zip pockets 222-223, 243-244 tucks 329-332 waistbands 345-375 zig zag stitch 266, 326 in sleeve lining 165 men's fastenings for 141, 370- zips 376-402 types of 329-330 371 in bias garments 17 making 330-331 parts of 345 in pleats 203, 388 variations of 331-332 types 345 types of 376 turn of cloth 49, 52 pattern for 345-347 how a zip works 376 turn-ups, trousers 149-150 to sew 347-353 jammed and sticky 376 tweed, novelty 180-181 troubleshooting 350-351 by the metre 376-377 twill tape Banrol/Armoflexxx 352-353 preparing to apply 377 binding with 22-23, 356-357 cut-on 353-355 invisible zips 377-381 on shirt collars 45 Petersham 355, 357-358 shortening 379, 381, 391, 399 tab fronts 114-115 curved 355-356, 357-358 regular zips 381-397 for seam neatening 267 waistline binding 356-357 in knits 388 twin needle 147-148, 149, 278 drawcord 358-359, 362 exposed zip 389-391 two piece sleeve elastic 359-365 feature zip 391 interfacing 156-157, 316 adjustable elastic 363-364 fly fronts 391-397 lining for 165, 166 men's 365-375 mock fly front 397-399 elbow ease in 310 men's waistbanding 368-369 open-ended 399-402 for large upper arms 314 men's adjustable 371-375 in fur fabric 402 to sew with vent 315-317 invisible zip through 380 pressing 250 waist facing 62, 93, 95-96, 355-356 warp 64 wearing ease 170 weft 64 u welt pockets 236-243 under collar 49, 51-52, 153 western shirt pockets 231-232 underarm gussets 306 western shirt yokes 293-294 underarm shields 319 wheelchair, trouser hems 150 underlining 159 whipstitch 139, 267 understitching 269 windowpane welt pkt 239-243 unpicking 251, 277-278 wooden clapper 245 "wrap" explained 99