ISSUE 3 AUTUMN 2004 SONANGOL

universoANGOLA | OIL | BUSINESS | CULTURE

TRADING PLACESPLACES Selling Angola’s oil across the wworldorld LIFE AT SEA Training is just a part of the busy day FRIED GREEN CCATERPILLARSATERPILLARS Exotic flaflavoursvours of AngAngolanolan cuisine

ISSUE 3 AUTUMN 2004 INSIDE SONANGOL S

ISSUE 3 AUTUMN 2004

T SONANGOL Universo also travelled back through the production cycle

EDITOR’S LETTER universoANGOLA | OIL | BUSINESS | CULTURE to see where the process begins – in this case at an offshore 8. Trading Places facility in Block 3. We see how oil is coaxed from the depths, N The sweetness of crude is the and how Angolans are being trained to take over all aspects of

E The US, the world’s largest oil subject of the third issue of operations. consumer, is still the biggest pur- Sonangol Universo. Sweetness Offshore crews operate in rotation and no work would be

T refers to the level of sulphur in the chaser of Angolan crude, but possible without a fleet of helicopters to transport personnel oil and is a key determinant of the and equipment to and from production facilities. We talk to the China has moved into second price a particular grade will achieve

N head of Sonangol subsidiary Sonair, the near exclusive provider place, with demand from Asia on the world market. S of offshore air services, about preparing for competition. O T

O growing rapidly. Crude oils are not created H

P From offshore to deep inland, we also introduce readers to

E D I O equal and we profile the characteristics of the different

W the little-known hinterland of Angola, in a feature on Cunene, D L R Angolan grades reporting on how they are received by interna- O one of the most promising provinces of the south – a parched W

P

A tional buyers, because Sonangol is uncommonly open in C region with huge agricultural and tourism potential. publishing the details of individual cargoes. For those who have never visited to the capital, we paint a 14. Shared Success Now the company has established a global trading infra- portrait of Luanda, with its wide array of cultural influences. structure and is set to deepen its penetration into markets in As well as providing expertise and revenue for Sonan- Many of its historic buildings are now being restored – a sure the East, where demand is growing strongly. gol, a new generation of high-tech joint ventures will reflection of the steady post-war restoration of Angola itself. E N E S

put Angola on the path to sustainable growth. S A M E L L I

E H P O T S I INSIDE ANGOLA R H C 46. Hand it to Sonangol 18. Frequent Flyers Rua 1° Congresso do MPLA, 34. Nurturing Waters the Girls N.º 8-16 Caixa Postal 1316, Luanda Sonair’s helicopters are the Life is not easy in the dry southern One for all and all for one, is República de Angola lifeline of Angola’s offshore Tel: +244 2 391 182 province of Cunene, but local people the cry of the Angolan women’s T S Fax: +244 2 391 782 I industry. Although it has V Q handball team as they sweep Telex: 2089 SONANG AN show spirit and resourcefulness to G R E B [email protected] enjoyed a near monopoly, the N aside all competition. improve their lives. A H O company is now facing up to J Sonangol USA (Sonusa) 1177 Enclave Parkway the prospect of competition. E N E

Second Floor S S A M

Houston,TX 77077 E

L 38. Organic Growth L I

USA E H P

Tel: +1 281 920 7600 O T S I Once a bread basket for southern Fax: +1 281 920 7666 R H [email protected] C Africa, Angola is rediscovering its 48. Fried Green Sonangol UK agricultural potential. Caterpillars Merevale House Brompton Place 22. Life at Sea London SW3 1QE Angolan food is exotic and full United Kingdom Offshore workers say they of character, but those looking Tel: +44 207 838 4600 42. Urban Fabric Fax: +44 207 589 9454 sometimes feel like the for a low-carb diet are advised Telex: 893212 SONANG forgotten men of the 28. An Ounce of Luanda is a riot of building styles to steer clear. Sonangol Asia production business. Prevention that knit together to create a T S

3 Temasek Avenue I V

vibrant, visually pleasing capital city. Q

31-04 Centennial Tower Universo went to keep them G R E B Singapore 039190 Sonangol has far-reaching infra- N

company for a day, and to A

Tel: : +65 64 16 3583 H O structure in place to promote J Fax: +65 64 16 3582 see how local staff are employee welfare, particularly in being trained to manage This magazine is produced for Sonangol by Impact Media Global Ltd, 66 Chiltern Street, London W1U 4JT, UK, Tel: +44 20 7034 1300 ~ Fax: +44 20 7935 5777 N

A respect of Angola’s two serious M

the production process. R Publisher: John Charles Gasser; Vice President: Sheila O’Callaghan; Editor: Sue Branford; Managing Editor: Christophe Illemassene; Sub Editor: Peter Moeller; E B L Art Director: Lisa Pampillonia; Advertising Design: Bernd Wojtczack; Circulation Manager: Tony Adkins; Contributors: Helen Campbell, Johan Bergqvist,William Wareing Y public health problems – Z

T

N Cover: Laurent Zylberman/Graphix Images E

R malaria and HIV/Aids. U

A All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical without prior permission in writing from the publishers. SONANGOL L [email protected]

4 SONANGOL UNIVERSO AUTUMN 2004 5 NEWS IN BRIEF

. Charms of Venus C N I

KPMG recommends that as part of the , M O C .

S A new ultra-deep oil development off Angola’s shores is in sight. Sonangol new system, a petroleum revenue manage- E G A M I and BP’s Angola unit announce a further commercial discovery on Block 31, ment agency should oversee the handling of /

K

O Venus – bringing the total number of successful wells in the contract area to O petroleum tax revenues between the govern- C

Y

H four. T ment and Sonangol. Such an agency would O M I T Venus, 175 kms off the coast, follows the earlier finds, Saturno, Marte, and also forecast petroleum revenues and help Plutão, located 11, 13 and 16 kms from it respectively. Operator BP and its the government to plan future budgets. partners – units of ExxonMobil, Statoil, Total and Marathon as well as Sonangol – are now working The Angolan government has acknowl- towards a joint development of reserves found in the northern section of the block. edged a need for greater openness, and it is Venus 1 was drilled to a total depth of 4,506m in 2,000m of water, encountering three oil-

. hoped this will pave the way towards agree- C N I

bearing reservoirs. Block 31 covers a total area of 5,349 sq. kms with water depths ranging from ,

M ment with the IMF, on funds for the O C 1,500-2,000m. It is adjacent to Block 32, where Total made its Gindungo discovery in 2003. . S

E country’s reconstruction, to replace the G A

BP says it is exploring a number of ways of developing these reserves and will be carrying out M I / more expensive oil-backed loans. N O

further work in the area as part of that process. Marathon adds that more exploration wells are S R

E Furthering efforts to boost transparency D

planned this year, although these are likely to be outside the north-eastern development area. N A

L in the oil sector, Sonangol approved the U A

Estimates of reserves found to date in the ultra-deep water belt now total 1.3 billion barrels. P recent release by ChevronTexaco of details According to Reports of $290 million in bonus payments it made in acquiring the licence for Block Zero off- shore Cabinda. New LPG Vessel Offshore Joint Venture May saw the much-anticipated summa- Manuel Vicente, chairman and chief ry of a report into the country’s oil industry executive officer of Sonangol says: “The gov- Late November will see the arrival in Norwegian drilling rig owner, Ocean by the Angolan government. The disclosure ernment of Angola understands that good Angola of a new liquefied petroleum gas Rig, has formed a joint venture with of the report’s main findings is one of the governance is a cornerstone of good busi- (LPG) vessel from Japan. The massive, dou- Luanda-based construction firm Empresa first steps towards increased financial trans- ness. Economic growth and stability are ble-hulled production and storage unit, de Serviços de Apoio à Produção (SARL). parency, and the international financial critical factors in the reconstruction of purchased by Cabinda Gulf Oil Co. The company, Ocean Rig & ESAP community has welcomed the move. The report, commissioned in 2002 from Angola which is why we are working dili- (Cabgoc), will be used to develop the Sanha Drilling, will be the main vehicle for the consulting giant KPMG, calls for greater gently to put in place the financial gas condensate and Bomboco oil fields. It Ocean Rig’s future drilling activities off- transparency in the management of Angola’s management systems necessary to facilitate is scheduled to start operations on Block shore Angola.

. oil finances. The government is now set to the resumption of normal economic life for C Zero during the first quarter of 2005. N I

, Meanwhile, ExxonMobil has contract-

M examine the report’s findings, and consider Angola’s people, to foster international trade O The unit, the first and largest purpose- C .

S ed Ocean Rig’s Leiv Eiriksson E and to encourage foreign direct investment

G implementing a system to monitor Angolan

A built vessel of its kind, will be towed by two M I semi-submersible rig to drill in the ultra- / oil revenues. in our country.” G

N tugs across the Sea of Japan, through the I

M deep waters in Block 33 over the summer. E L F Singapore Straits, across the Indian Ocean, E O

J The rig started work on an exploration and round the Cape of Good Hope to well on July 1, with drilling expected to

Angola. It is designed to remain in place for C O

take around 45 days. The contract also R B I 20 years without the need for drydocking. S allows for one option well on the block. The major sections have been con- Secure Future Hopes for positive announcements structed in Japan and once completed the on the well (or wells), are high, but to date Striving to meet new security requirements agreed by 866 ft-long vessel will be operated by a 60- the US oil company has yet to announce signatories to the Safety of Life at Sea Convention strong crew. It will process more than 3,000 the discovery of commercial hydrocar- (SOLAS), Angola has appointed a new national ports secu- tones of LPG per day into propane and bons in Block 33, on which it previously rity coordinator. butane products. The Ministry of Transport says Mariano Silvestre contracted the same rig to drill the Calulu The vessel has six storage tanks, and Ribeiro Castelo Branco will be responsible for drafting well. will be able to perform side-by-side and procedures for the security of Angola’s ports system and The Leiv Eiriksson has been working tandem off-loading. for initiating the creation of a national committee for the offshore Angola in a rig-sharing agree- The $1.9bn Sanha condensate project enforcement of the International Code on Maritime is a key element of Angola’s strategy to ment between ExxonMobil and BP since Safety, overseen by the International Maritime Organisation (IMO). eliminate gas flaring and has already 2002. This contract ended in March, and IMO works to improve safety at sea and to protect the marine environment. It intro- involved the largest single offshore lift per- Ocean Rig confirms that it is currently in duced certain amendments to the 1974 SOLAS treaty in December 2002, largely as a result formed in West Africa. discussions with various companies oper- of the increased threat of terrorism to ports following the September 11 attacks in the Cabgoc’s partners on the project are ating offshore Angola on future contracts United States. Angola, a member state since 1977, has been working to meet the new Sonangol, Total and Agip. beyond the Block 33 commitments. requirements by the agreed deadline of July 1 this year.

6 SONANGOL UNIVERSO AUTUMN 2004 7 SALES & MARKETING S O T O H P

E D I W D L R O W

P A trading Places

The US, the world’s largest oil consumer, is still the biggest purchaser of Angolan crude, but China has moved into second place, with demand from Asia growing rapidly.

occer moms in gas-guzzling sports utility vehicles and fast-growing industrial cities in China have one important thing in common. SThey are both energy hungry, and oil forecasters try keenly to antic- ipate their behaviour in order to predict movements in the price of oil. As of early May, the thinking was that uncertainty in Iraq and the A P

W

threat of terrorism, together with the weak dollar, would make O R L D Americans reluctant to travel overseas for their summer vacations. This, W I D “Predictions today E

P

it was said, would result in a strong driving season in the United States. H O T O have a relative value: As a result, most forecasters predicted a price range of $30-$35 per bar- S “ rel for the forthcoming quarter. there are so many By the end that month, instability in Iraq and the threat of disruption to supplies from the Middle East had driven the price past the $40 mark, pointing up that forecasting is definitely things that can affect an art rather than a science. the fundamentals. “Predictions today have a relative value,” says José Carlos Paiva, managing director of Sonangol’s London operation. “There are so many things that can affect the fundamentals. Just Just how can you how can you predict the political situation in the Middle East?” predict the political Paiva adds that low global inventories and the lack of new refineries in the US are among the many factors that can contribute to price volatility, but says that as a trader he cannot help situation in the

A but enjoy the current strong demand. P

Middle East?” W O

R “We are happy for prices to be at $40, but in the longer term it is not good for producers, L D W I D because high prices have an impact on the attitude of consumers. It forces them to consider José Carlos Paiva, E

P

H ”

O their behaviour, both towards saving energy and going to alternative sources.”

T Managing Director, O S The picture is further complicated by seasonal fluctuations, such as the US driving Sonangol, London

8 SONANGOL UNIVERSO AUTUMN 2004 9 C O R B I S region, including India. In China, demand is each grade per quarter. Generally the compa- is today pro-active, directly contacting poten- now growing at up to 8 per cent per year, mak- ny will sell around 30 cargoes over 90 days, tial buyers to achieve the best price on cargoes. “Nowadays ing the country the world’s second largest oil with each cargo typically comprising almost a Furthermore, by setting up trading offices consumer – and Angola produces roughly half million barrels. Although Sonangol’s own pro- around the world, the company has been able “Sonangol has the the West African crude heading to the region. duction is small, the oil that it trades to take control of its own trading and market- ability to select its Furthermore, China drives the whole Asia represents its crude equity in blocks in which it ing activities, allowing it to cut out the Pacific region, although Japan’s modest eco- is a shareholder, as well as oil due to it through middlemen and chose its own clients. own clients, and we nomic recovery has contributed to the its role as concessionaire. “The idea was basically to be independ- choose people who maintenance of OECD countries’ demand. Such a level of disclosure is highly unusual ent,” says Batista Sumbe, president and CEO of in an international oil company, but Sonangol Sonangol USA. “We used to have an agent but are end-users rather is at pains to stress the transparency in which it was an expensive operation, and it was inef- than traders.” Trading at a Premium it operates. The company is emerging from an fective in terms of know-how transfer.” Such are the laws of supply and demand environment of a civil war lasting three Sonangol now has its own traders and can Anabela” de Brito that international trading companies are con- decades, and is now emphasising its credibility hold its own in the international trading arena. da Fonseca stantly trying to evaluate. Every quarter, and good practice. “Today it is completely different, we have a Director, Commercial Sonangol holds a series of meetings in Luanda, The ending of hostilities has made an improved a lot, and now we can compete with Operations, Sonangol bringing together its three trading offices in enormous difference to the way in which the any company in the world.” London, Houston and Singapore to review the company can conduct its business. During the By controlling its own sales, there is also a last quarter trades and make forecasts for the war, it either had to sell to buyers imposed by substantial financial benefit. “We make much, coming quarter. banks that had provided pre-financing deals, much more money for the country and for the The meetings are also important for the or to use agents. Neither option gave Sonangol company by doing it for ourselves,” says government because the Angolan Ministry of any price flexibility. Sumbe, who is a 22-year veteran of Sonangol Finance uses them to set a reference price for “In the past, nearly everything was on a and founded the company’sHouston office. oil, which determines government budgets. contract basis, with almost all the contracts Sonangol provides information on every one connected to government financing,” says of the company’s trades, including price, desti- Anabela de Brito da Fonseca, Sonangol’s direc- Three-pronged strategy nation, purchaser and type of payment. tor of commercial operations. “Nowadays Sonangol embarked on its international Not all oils are created equal and accord- Sonangol has the ability to choose its own trading life with an office in London in 1983, ing to the specification of an individual crude, clients, and we choose people who are end- followed by an office in Houston in 1997. Late it will be sold at a premium or a discount users rather than traders.” in 2003, an office was opened in Singapore. In (known as a differential) to the benchmark Paiva adds that the company, which used each case, the location of offices reflects a crude, which is normally Brent from the UK’s to be fairly passive in its attitude to the market, desire to be close to clients. North Sea. Angola’s six main grades of oil, referring to the areas or fields from which they derive, have quoted prices: Cabinda and Nemba come from Block Zero, Angola’s most prolific area, at the mouth of the Congo River; Kuito and Xikomba come from deepwater Blocks 14 and 15 respectively; Girassol from Block 17 and Palanca from Blocks 2 and 3. Nemba and Palanca are the best quality crudes and trade at a premium to Brent. In mid-May, a cargo of Palanca achieved a price of $39.29 per barrel, which amounted to a 70 cent premium on Brent. These grades have the season or temperature falls in winter, which lowest content of sulphur and asphalt, where- lead to more fuel being used for heating. as Kuito is the heaviest crude, and usually However, it is true to say that on average, the trades at a significant discount of around $4.00 US accounts for about a quarter of the 80 mil- to $5.00 per barrel to Brent. However, geopoli- lion barrels a day (bpd) produced around the tics also have a marked effect on prices. When FILLING UP: world. Venezuela was experiencing strikes, Cabinda, far from the frenzied trading Still, demand is largely seen as flat in the which normally trades at a discount to Brent, on world petroleum futures United States and OECD countries, whereas it sold at a premium. markets, for the driving S I

B customer it is the price at is racing ahead in China and the Asia Pacific Sonangol releases the price achieved on R O C the pump that matters.

10 SONANGOL UNIVERSO AUTUMN 2004 11 espite its nickname “Black Gold”, crude oil The Organisation of Petroleum Exporting “We want to be closer to our clients in ties reporting company, considers Cabinda Dcomes in a variety of hues, from virtually colour- Countries (Opec) uses its own reference, the order to better understand both the psycholo- grades to be transparent and globally traded. less to midnight black. It can be liquid or solid at Opec basket. This is an average of the prices of gy of the buyer side of the market and the Cabinda is also very popular in the Far room temperature, and even exists in red and green. seven crudes: Arab Light (Saudi Arabia), Dubai pricing process,” says Hermenegilda Lopes, East, where Sonangol has a 10,000 bpd con- While colour alone might reveal regional ori- (UAE), Bonny Light (Nigeria), Saharan Blend president of Sonangol Asia, who set up the tract with Unipec. gin of a particular crude – rather like a (Algeria), Minas (Indonesia), Tia Juana Light company’s new Singapore office. “In Asia-Pacific they love Cabinda because wine-tasting without the mouth-swilling – a (Venezuela) and Isthmus (Mexico). The establishment of its Singapore office they can produce fuel oil from it,” says Lopes. number of chemical characteristics differentiate While many different types of crude exist, enables the company to trade oil on a 24-hour “But if they can’t get Cabinda, they will take a one crude from another, and consequently dic- there are regional similarities. For example, their basis, allowing it to operate worldwide, similar grade such as Girassol. Therefore, we tate price and usage. geological history means that Nigerian and strengthening its negotiating position. As have multiple sources to meet the growing Crude quality is measured Louisiana crudes, share charac- Batista Sumbe says: “If you can keep an office demand from Asia.” according to density and sulphur teristics because both were open for 24 hours, you sell more and increase Indeed the type of oil frequently deter- content. As a general rule, the formed in similar marine your choices.” mines the client. The main competition for less dense the crude, the better Sweet & deposits. Some Far Eastern Still, despite the growth of markets in the Angolan crude, especially the heavier grades its potential for higher-value light crudes are waxy, black or brown East and China, the US remains the largest such as Kuito, is the Doba oil field in Chad, products such as gasoline and jet Sour and low in sulphur – similar to consumer of Angolan grades. Europe is not a which came on stream last year and exports fuel. Sulphur content is important The characteristics crudes found in central Africa, particularly important market, as Angolan via a pipeline crossing Cameroon. because this chemical can turn of crude. because both have non-marine into a major pollutant when heat- origins. ed. Sweet crude contains less Middle East crude is black “We want to be closer to our clients in order to be able to than 0.5 per cent sulphur, while crude containing but less waxy and higher in sulphur, while more than 0.5 per cent sulphur is said to be sour. Western Australia typically produces a light, “understand better both the psychology of the buyer side of the Angolan crudes perform well on the interna- honey-coloured liquid. North Sea oil, on the market and the pricing process.” tional market, despite being in competition with other hand, is usually a waxy, greenish-black. Hermenegilda Lopes other high-quality and high-volume crudes from Whatever its field of origin, most oil is sold ” President, Sonangol Asia countries such as Nigeria. Oil from the Nemba by the barrel according to a futures contract, and Palanca fields, for example, is particularly where the seller agrees to supply oil and the prized – especially by the car-loving US – due to buyer agrees to take delivery, at a fixed price and crude is very similar in terms of specification “Exxon used to be our best client for its lightness and suitability for gasoline produc- at an agreed location. Many of these are long- to that from the North Sea, so the cost of Kuito, which has a very strong competitor in tion. A large proportion of the heavier Kuito term supply contracts, but one-off “spot” sales transport to Europe from West Africa makes it Doba crude, ” says Lopes. “However, we are production is sold to the Far East, where industry are also negotiated. A barrel of crude contains a uncompetitive. Also, Angolan crude is unsuit- confident that our diversification policy will demand is soaring. Large volumes of Cabinda standard 42 US gallons. able for European refineries. continue to enhance our competitive advan- crude are sold to China for fuel oil production. Why barrels? Crude from the world’s first Sun Oil, a major US refinery, is the biggest tage. Whatever the competition, the strong Traders generally use one crude as a bench- official oil well, drilled in Pennsylvania in 1859, single refiner of Angolan oil – specifically the demand, our multi-continental presence in mark and apply a premium or discount for other was stored in whisky barrels, leading to a short- Cabinda grade coming from the north of the the global marketplace and increasing output types. Europe’s benchmark is Brent. According to age of the latter – and the bizarre scenario in country. Sonangol has a contracts with Sun of the Angolan grades will ensure a sustainable the London International Petroleum Exchange, which oil cost only half the price of the barrel Where Oil to supply 35,000 bpd. This major contract supply to support the economic growth pro- two-thirds of world crude trade is priced against holding it. is typical of Sonangol’s desire to move away jected for both the G-8 and China economies.” Brent. Angola’s Nemba and Palanca crudes trade That is where the similarities end however, Angola’s from third party trading and deal directly with With a global trading ability and a rela- at a premium to Brent, while Kuito is sold at a because unlike a good malt whisky, or a fruity end users. tively new weight and credibility in the market, discount. Cabinda is also usually discounted, red wine, crude cannot be tasted and savoured ■ Angola ■ Indonesia Crude Cabinda could be regarded as the bench- Sonangol has come a long way from the bad although market conditions have seen it attract a to determine its origin, quality and suitability. ■ Chile ■ S Africa mark Angolan crude and is a reference point old days of being held over a barrel by traders premium in the past. In the Gulf, Dubai crude is Better to leave it to the mechanics of the world ■ China ■ S Korea Goes for international markets. Platt’s, the commodi- and the banks backing them. ❖ the benchmark, while the US prices its imports market to make sure the right crude gets to the ■ Europe ■ Taiwan against WTI (West Texas Intermediate). right customer. ❖ (2004, first quarter) ■ India ■ USA

CABINDA PALANCA GIRASSOL CANUKU KUITO XIKOMBA NEMBA TOTAL ANGOLA Taiwan China India Chile China Angola China China Indonesia 4.2 China 9.4 6.2 4.6 India China USA China Angola Europe 6.2 100 65.0 16.5 28.2 27.2 29.5 52.4 Taiwan 12.7 45.9 40.7 17.5 25.4 S Africa USA USA 8.9 16.5 42.4 Taiwan Chile S Africa 9.0 1.8 6.3 India USA Angola 5.4 Indonesia USA S Korea 56.1 2.0 USA Angola 6.3 USA 71.8 4.3 Europe 18.6 17.9 Taiwan Indonesia S Korea 3.1 10.3 7.1 4.6 3.5

12 SONANGOL UNIVERSO AUTUMN 2004 13 JOINT VENTURES

As well as providing expertise and revenue for Sonangol, a new generation of high-tech joint ventures will put Angola Shared on the path to sustainable growth. Shared n a new factory in Angola’s industrial port ally replace the expats,” says Angoflex’s general city of Lobito, an enormous cylindrical manager, Claude Perrier. “You can find really Imachine is steadily revolving. The bright red good people if you take time over selection.” drum is the second largest helix machine in the world, designed to make umbilical lines for the offshore industry. It is the pièce de resist- Big brother ance of Sonangol’s latest joint venture – Angoflex’s relatively modest buildings are SuccessSuccess Angoflex Limitada. nestled within a much larger facility in Lobito French engineering group Technip is – that of Sonamet, which makes large-scale Sonangol’s partner in the company, with a structures for the offshore industry. majority 70 per cent share: Sonangol owns 30 Sonamet is one of Sonangol’s biggest and per cent of the firm, which was set up with an oldest joint venture companies. A partnership initial investment of $15 million. with Stolt Offshore (55 per cent) and Wapo Umbilicals are essentially marine cables International (5 per cent), the company is a that carry a bundle of tubes and wires for state-of-the-art engineering installation. electrics, fibre-optics and fluids, and their pro- Régis Arnaud, Sonamet yard manager, duction is a highly specialised field of offshore says that when the company arrived in 1998 in work. Each cable must be fabricated to precise Lobito, an old Portuguese port south of specifications and there are only a handful of Luanda, they faced daunting problems. “There manufacturers in the world with this capabili- wasn’t even land on which to build the yard,” ty. Angoflex is also distinct in having already he says. “We had to dredge sand from the sea. achieved ISO 9001 certification – one of only It required a heavy investment.” five companies in the country to have done so. Once established, Sonamet notched up a The company’s first job was making 8kms host of firsts in terms of engineering expertise. of line for Exxon’s Kizomba B field in Block 15. One of its initial achievements was to produce It now has several more orders on its books – an innovative extraction system involving “The reason behind and there is unlikely to be a shortage of future three 1.3 km riser towers for the huge Girassol “ work, given the explosion of activity in field in Block 17, which serves the biggest creating this division Angola’s offshore. floating, production, storage and offloading was the growing From the moment the agreement was (FPSO) vessel in the world. signed in 2002, the new factory brought jobs “We pioneered the idea of producing a number and impor- and skills. The first 11 employees were sent long section of a central tube onshore, towing tance of joint overseas to receive specialist training in it out horizontally to the oil rig and then using Technip’s other plants in Brazil, the US and the buoys to raise it vertically. No one in the world ventures and their UK, and Angoflex currently has four techni- had ever produced a system like this,” says impact on the cians and one engineer being trained in Arnaud. Newcastle, UK. Their next project was for suction anchor economy.” The company now has 50 employees, 11 piles for the Dalia field and for the Kizomba B of whom are expats on short-term contracts field in Block 15. “We have a very high level of ” Francisco José Gonçalves who will be replaced by Angolans as soon as technology,” says Arnaud. “We have made a Director, Joint Venture possible. special investment in suction anchor piles and Participation, Sonangol “We are hiring Angolans who will eventu- associated equipment. No one else has this N A M R E B L

Y AUTUMN 2004 15 Z

T N E R U A L of entrepreneurial culture in the country, but slowly this is being established. And the cre- ation of a new class of local merchants dovetails with Sonangol’s strategy of divesting non-core assets. “We will reduce our exposure to non-core activities,” says Gonçalves. “It is not our role to be in warehousing or general services activi- ties, such as food. We want to be able to hand these companies over to local businessmen when they are ready and the right moment has come.” However, core assets are another matter. Sonangol wants and needs to continue to build its core expertise. After all, according to Gonçalves, the UK’s North Sea oil expertise was built from nothing out of proactive gov- ernment policies to support the creation of local business.

The Angolan government is following suit, E N E S S A

saying that it will give priority to joint ventures M N E L A L I M

E R

E in core business areas, focusing on the transfer H B P L O Y T Z

S of technology and on block development. I T R N H E C R

U For their part, partner companies are keen A L to establish a foothold in the country to be in a strong position to bid for the large amount of Spinning the Offshore kind of facility.” The yard will construct 20 acknowledgement of the weight of their con- work likely to be coming up in the one of the more such anchors by the end of the year. tribution, a dedicated division was double helix world’s fastest growing production areas. They Sonamet’s biggest job so far has been to established in November 2002 to monitor and are aware that, when deciding on future con- produce a series of structures for control Sonangol’s share of the associated The huge hollow drum of the Angoflex tracts, the government will favour those ChevronTexaco’s shallow-water Sanha field in companies' or participadas, as they are Limitada helix machine is fitted with spindles companies that can guarantee a high level of Block Zero. The work took 14 months to com- referred to internally. that carry the tubes and wires which will be local content. plete and swelled the manpower working at “The reason behind creating this division bundled together to make up the umbilical. “The discoveries are quite impressive and the yard to almost 1,000. was the growing number and importance of These are fed to a central point where they they keep on finding new ones,” says The company delivered a 2,000-tones pro- joint ventures, and their impact on the econo- are twisted together in a helix pattern and Angoflex’s Perrier. “Our aim was to get into duction deck and all the foundation my,” says Francisco José Gonçalves, director of wrapped in tape. infrastructure for the offshore platform in joint venture participation. Angola and cater for the Angolan market, but Each of the components has its own March 2004. Arnaud’s eyes shine with pleasure A joint venture is defined as a company in serving the rest of the Gulf of Guinea out of specification and colour to denote its func- as he goes through the heavy equipment and which Sonangol has less then a controlling Angola is a longer term goal.” tion, and the machine delivers the facilities, such as massive cranes and trailers, interest; if it has 51 per cent or more and also Sonangol has a similar goal in that it too wants to expand abroad in the medium term, composite cable to a massive 300 tones- “Our aim was to get at his disposal to complete such work. the operational control, then the company becomes a subsidiary. Sonangol is not typically while strengthening and deepening activities capacity drum at a rate of approximately “into Angola and cater involved in the daily running of joint ventures at home. Joint ventures are central to the 4kms per hour (above). Billion dollar business but will have representation on the board and vision of increasing core skills, through the The full reels are returned to the start for the Angolan market, The specialist industries clustered in a clear say in strategic decisions, as well as transfer of technology and the creation of of the line, where the cable is fed back into but serving the rest of Lobito are physical evidence of how important having a supervisory role. employment. the machine for a second pass. This time it “The Sonangol Board is giving more time the joint venture business has become to “The main challenge we face is the con- forms the core around which the second the Gulf of Guinea out and attention to this area because the com- Sonangol. Joint venture companies have a tinuous integration of these companies into helix is wound in the opposite direction to combined turnover of $1 billion, making a the national activity of Angola,” says mercial presence of these companies within of Angola is a longer counteract the tendency of the umbilical to valuable contribution to the company’s rev- Gonçalves. “It is of paramount importance the Angolan oil industry is growing,” explains term goal.” corkscrew as it is fed into the sea. enues as well as contributing to its that they provide employment and act as good Gonçalves. Long cables, such as the 20km Kizom- technological development. corporate citizens.” Sonangol CEO Manuel Vicente would Claude Perrier, ” emphatically agree. When asked about the sig- ba B umbilical are made in sections which Sonangol now has approximately 25 joint Joint ventures are also a major contributor Genera/ manager, Angoflex ventures in a diverse range of businesses, to the development of local content in the nificance of Angoflex, he said: “We have to do are joined together on site. from banks to warehousing companies. In industry. Five years ago there was no element more of this!” ❖

16 SONANGOL UNIVERSO AUTUMN 2004 17 SUBSIDIARIES frequentfrequent FlyFlyersers

Sonair’s helicopters are the lifeline of Angola’s off- shore industry. Although it has enjoyed a near monopoly, the company is now facing up to the prospect of competition.

or the promenaders on Luanda’s sea front at around 5.00pm, Sonair’s red and white Fhelicopters are a familiar sight, crossing the city’s beautiful bay as the sun turns the waters of Luanda’s harbour a delicate shade of mauve. These aircraft are vital to the operation of the offshore oil platforms, ferrying personnel back and forth from remote islands of steel in the sea. The man in charge of Sonair is its smart youthful-looking president, António dos Santos Domingos. Sitting in his office at Sonair’s headquarters at Luanda’s airport, he enthusiastically explains his strategy for the R I

A company. N O S

F For the last five years he has been oversee- O

Y S E

T ing a process of rapid change, as Sonair adapts R U O

C and responds to the growing demands of

S O T

O Angola’s expanding oil sector. To judge from H P

18 SONANGOL UNIVERSO AUTUMN 2004 19 the ideas for future developments that are As a first step, this decision meant upgrad- hygiene and security. Staff are constantly at TRAFFIC STOPPER: pouring out of him, the next five years will be ing Sonair’s fleet of aircraft. “Our clients are the work to ensure the hangars and the adjoining A Sonair pilot shows his mettle just as exciting. oil companies: Sonangol and its subsidiaries, buildings are kept scrupulously clean. “We against the backdrop of Luanda’s There is no doubt that Santos Domingos and the foreign oil companies, offshore and want to achieve the ISO safety certificate this iconic Central Bank building. heads an air transport company. The walls of onshore, Santos Domingos continues. “They year,” explains Santos Domingos. “I know the his office are covered with pictures of aircraft, want modern aircraft, with the latest technical state airline TAAG doesn’t have it but, if we are with even a small model of a helicopter on his capabilities.” to expand, we need it, and we need it quickly.” desk. Periodically, he has to pause in outlining Today Sonair has 16 helicopters and 28 Sonangol, it seems, is acting as trail-blazer in WORLD CONNECTIONS: his plans for the company to allow the sound fixed-wing aircraft, both jet and turbo-prop. It raising the general level of standards across Sonair has joined with the US of arriving or departing aircraft to subside. leases most of them on three-year contracts, the whole airport. Airline, World Airways to run a But in fact, the transformation that Santos generally purchasing the equipment once the Santos Domingos has been an innovator twice-weekly schedule between Domingos has been implementing has more contract has terminated. in other areas too. “The oil industry is develop- Luanda and Houston, Texas. to do with economics and management style Sonair had a turnover of $144 million in ing at a breathtaking pace and we have to keep than the technicalities of the air industry. 2003. The most profitable part of its business is up,” he explains. Sonair is currently construct- Santos Domingos is an economist by training. supplying helicopters to carry staff and freight ing new installations, including a large new Before taking over Sonair, he worked as one of to the off-shore installations. There are about hangar in Luanda. The company intends to Sonangol’s high-level team for negotiating 15 return trips every day, at a cost of $1,250 expand into new areas, with the building of contracts with the oil majors, and brings all per hour. “It’s a reliable, certain income. No new infrastructure both in Soyo, 300kms north this experience to his current job. risk for us,” says Santos Domingos with a grin. of Luanda, which will serve the big new lique- “Five years ago we decided that Sonair “It’s up to the client to make sure the helicop- fied natural gas project. It also plans new had to change mentality, putting the wishes of ter is full.” developments in Cabinda, where currently its clients first,” says Santos Domingos. “We Despite its monopoly, Sonair works close- Petroleum Helicopters Inc. operates on behalf have a near monopoly over air transport for ly with foreign companies. “We contract us,” said Santos Domingos. “Sometimes it’s of Chevron. “We are keen to guarantee the the oil industry in Angola, which means that foreign companies to work with us. It’s good like a Tower of Babel here. You can hear so highest level of service in all these new proj- the oil majors have to use our helicopters to for us, because they bring their knowledge.” many different languages being spoken in our ects,” says Santos Domingos. transfer their employees to and from the oil All of Sonair’s 142 pilots are Angolan, some of offices. But it’s beginning to change, with a Over time, Sonair plans to branch out into installations. But, despite this, we have taken a them military pilots who were demobilised at higher proportion of Angolans. Our old short- yet more new areas. “The Angolan economy is conscious decision to provide a first class serv- the end of the war. Others are Angolan exiles, age of skilled labour, which forced us to look expanding rapidly and a new class of success- ice. Our monopoly will not last forever. trained abroad, who were eager to return to abroad for staff, is beginning to ease.” ful entrepreneur is emerging,” says Santos “Sonangol has already said that it will be their home country following the ceasefire. But Although Sonair is best known for the Domingos. “Within 10 or 15 years these busi- allowing foreign companies into fuel distribu- many of Sonair’s remaining 434 employees are transport it provides to the oil installations, it nessmen will want their personal helicopters tion inside Angola,” he points out. “Sooner or foreign. has recently branched out into new areas. In to ferry them around. They will reach their later it will apply the same policy to air trans- “We have French people, Canadians, May 2000 the company signed a contract with destinations more quickly in this way, while port. And we must be ready to compete.” Americans, and other foreigners working for the US airline, World Airways, to provide a reg- enjoying the beauty of the countryside. At ular private air charter service. Known as the weekends they will be able to take their fami- Houston Express, the World Airways lies on tourist trips. At the same time regional McDonnell Douglas MD-11, carrying passen- politicians will gain in influence and will want gers and freight, now runs a twice-weekly faster travel. Sonair should be the company schedule between Luanda and Houston. The responding to these new demands.” service is not designed to compete with regu- Not surprisingly perhaps, Santos “Within 10 or 15 years lar airlines, because it is only open to member Domingos defines his main challenge in man- these businessmen will companies of the US-Angola Chamber of agement terms. “We need to set up flexible, “ Commerce. management structures so that we can want their personal Earlier this year Sonair expanded the serv- respond rapidly to changing conditions and helicopters to ferry ice to include an additional leg, from Houston maximise our efficiency. We need to be trans- to Malabo in Equatorial Guinea. “Planes were parent and publish our accounts,” he them around.They will made to fly,” says Santos Domingos. “We had enthuses. reach their destinations two dead days when they were grounded, so “Soon Luanda will be opening the coun- we looked around the Gulf of Guinea for the try’s first stock market. We want to be in a more quickly, while region where oil production is developing position to raise capital on this market so that enjoying the beauty of most rapidly. We identified Malabo as the new we can respond to new opportunities,”

P emerging production centre, so that’s where explains Santos Domingos. “Only if we achieve the countryside.” H O T

O we fly.” all this will we be able survive and prosper, S

C O

U Because it is working on an international and be ready for the time when we have to António dos Santos Domingos R

T ” E S

Y ❖ President, Sonair

level, Sonair must be scrupulous in matters of compete with local and foreign companies.” O F

S O N A I R AUTUMN 2004 21 HUMAN RESOURCES

Offshore workers say they sometimes feel like the forgotten men of the production business. Universo went to keep them company for a day, and to see how local staff are being trained to manage the production process.

f one evening at dusk, you happen to be own steam when going into port for mainte- passing the Canuku field FPSO Ocean nance and inspection. IProducer, 65 kms south of the Congo River, Like every good manager, Captain you might see the ship’s master jogging around Blatchley says that training is one of the most the helipad. important parts of his job, and one that he Measuring some 15m in diameter, this is enjoys immensely. not an ideal running track, but out at sea it will “The Angolans are smart, fast-learning do, so the ship’s crew exercise where they can. and have a good work ethic,” he says. “They Down a ladder from the helipad there is a have an incredible desire to learn. Every day weight-lifting bench and somewhere, accord- my door will open at 6.30am and I can guaran- ing to ship sources, there is also an exercise tee there will be two guys outside with books, bicycle. looking for a photocopy or for explanations,” The evening run is a rare break in a 14- he says. hour day for Captain Julian Blatchley, master As on most modern production facilities, of the FPSO (floating production, storage and the crew is a mixture of nationalities repre- offloading vessel), sub-contracted from the senting a number of different companies in technology and engineering firm, Oceaneering the subcontracting chain. Sonangol subsidiary, International to exploit a cluster of wells in Pesquisa & Produção (Sonangol P&P) – Block 3. Portuguese for exploration and production – is The Ocean Producer – an 89,000 dwt the operator of the field and has subcontract- tanker – is specially adapted for the job of pro- ed the physical production of oil to local firm duction and storage, processing around 8,000 Angola Drilling Company (ADC). In turn, ADC, barrels of oil per day. It has a total storage has sub-contracted Oceaneering International capacity of 513,000 barrels, but normally to provide the vessel and crew. unloads when levels reach the The Oceaneering team 280,000 barrel mark. comprises the ship’s master, The vessel is essentially a production superintendent, sophisticated floating factory, chief officer and a chief engi- and Captain Blatchley is more neer, while Sonangol P&P has Life manager of a facility than five of its people on ship to master of a ship in the con- train and assist in oil produc- ventional sense. tion activities. Also part of the Normally, the vessel does complement are employees of not go anywhere: it is firmly Angola Offshore Services, a moored to the seabed by four local private company which E N

E massive anchors. The engine provides support functions S S A M

E room of the 240m vessel such as radio communications, L L I

E H

P remains quiet, although it is as well as other Angolans O T S at I R capable of running under its working for the French cater- H C

Sea : S O T O H

22 SONANGOL UNIVERSO P AUTUMN 2004 23 ing contractor Sodexho. Foreign staff in junior officer positions are largely Filipino and Polish employees of the marine agency AMS. However, Captain Blatchley stresses that eventually all positions on board will be filled by Angolans, and that everyone on the ship is aware of their role in training. He adds that the process of Angolanisation is going well and that several of the local employees will reach super- visor level within the next couple of years. Stefan Friborg, director general of ADC, provides testament to the raw ability of Angolans. “In years to come, you will find lots of competent Angolans who can work in global companies,” he says. “But for now, Angolanisation is very important to build the country and we have to understand the need and give training in theory and on the job.” Some of Sonangol’s staff on Ocean Producer have already made their mark. Production superintendent Arthur Craggs says that he is particularly proud of one of his trainees, João Coelho, who is successfully standing in as acting night shift manager. Craggs says Coelho quickly understood the E N E S priority of making sure that there was not a sig- S A M E L L I

nificant drop in production overnight. Minor E H P

problems in flow lines or a loss of well pressure O T S I R H

can result in as much as 11 hours lost produc- C

: S O tion, something managers are anxious to avoid, T O H given the high running cost of the FPSO. P Also working on the production side are trainees like Makungi Makongo and Carlos Paulo de Carvalho, who monitor the various Occasional diversions processes that crude undergoes when it comes English is also generally the language for “In years to come, you aboard the vessel. Both are graduates of the tall tales of the sea. Sea monsters and mer- “will find lots of competent Angolan Ministry of Petroleum Oil College, and maids might be the stuff of fancy in the Congo work 12-hour shifts, with a 28-day onshore/off- Basin but mighty serpents are not. Captain Angolans who can work shore rotation as stipulated by Angolan law. Blatchley says that not long ago a python slith- Language skills are vital on board. “You ered up the anchor cable of a nearby vessel – in global companies.” have to be able to speak English,” says Craggs. nearby being relative, as the nearest manned Stefan Friborg “It is the working language on ship and some platform is some 16kms away. ” Director General, guys get on better than others purely because This sighting occurred during the rainy Angola Drilling Company of their ability to express themselves in English. season, when the sea around the FPSO is In emergencies, you have to be able to commu- brown and filled with all kinds of debris from nicate and take charge in English because we the Congo River. The captain says that he has have so many different nationalities on board.” seen monkeys floating by on rafts of branches, TWO OF THE BEST: Speaking English is a distinct asset for act- adding that the python in question was safely trainees Makungi Macongo ing night supervisor Coelho, who took his captured and flown back to land. (top) and Carlos Paulo de Car- engineering degree in the UK. But for others While captain Blatchley might sometimes valho (bottom) have crucial with less exposure to the language, bemoan the solitary aspects of life at sea, this roles in Crude extraction and Oceaneering International runs language kind of experience is unlikely to happen to his processing aboard the FPSO schools both on and offshore, making every desk-bound colleagues at head office. There Ocean Producer. effort to improve communication skills. are compensations to being lost at sea, chief among them being that life is far from dull. ❖

24 SONANGOL UNIVERSO AUTUMN 2004 25 Gas Coaxing To Flare Skid Surge Vessel Breaks out gas Gas Separator Vessel everyevery To deck machinery (fuel) Breaks out water & gas oil Gas Desalter flows (removes salt) over Pump Oil Oil oil drop Oil box Water drop Water fromfrom thethe Oil Water recovered oil goes back Electric Water Treatment Coalescer to be re-processed Heater depths Final water (Heats Oil) break out

Storage aintaining production requires a deli- Water is discharged Tanks Header Mcate balance. Canuku is a marginal into sea field and by its very nature is declining in production, so the economics of extraction need to be carefully managed. FIRST STEPS: Fresh from its journey to the surface, crude is subjected The daily 8,000 barrels from the to a series of processes to prepare it for transfer to the refinery. Well Canuku field is a drop of 4,000 bpd from last year, and it is estimated that the well “We do regular gas checks and take precautions to make sure has no more than four more years of life. there are no sources of ignition if any does escape.” There are various options for increasing crude. All the water is then separated out from the crude in an electric coalescer, before the oil “ production for a well with declining produc- is pumped into storage tanks. Captain Julian Blatchley, FPSO Master, Oceaneering International tion. The process of acid cleaning, which Water and salt are both expensive to transport. Excess water is pumped back into the sea, ” was undertaken in Canuku in May, can according to marine pollution guidelines, containing no more than 15 parts per million of oil, improve flow up the lines from the wells, and can also be used to wash out the wells themselves, well below Angolan law requirements of a maximum of 40 parts per million. which often become clogged by debris. The combustibility of the crude, and particularly of the attendant gas, makes the whole Acid stimulation costs are estimated to be $350,000 including vessels, chemicals, personnel operation a hazardous process. It is critical that no crude enters the lines to the gas flare, as and other related costs. A more expensive option is to inject gas into the well, which makes the burning crude from a flare tower can create either environmental damage if it falls into the sea crude more frothy, enabling it to flow more easily up the lines to the FPSO. or a potentially explosive situation by landing on deck. “It’s actually pretty safe on deck,” says Captain Blatchley. “We do regular gas checks and take precautions to make sure there are no sources of ignition if any does escape.” Floating factory However the oil is coaxed out of the seabed, it does not emerge pristine and ready to be shipped to the refinery. It must be treated before it can be transported. Handled with care Once the oil arrives on board, it goes through a process of cleaning and separation to render it The most challenging aspect of the operation is transferring the oil from the FPSO. as pure as possible for transfer to the refinery. Water and gas need to be extracted, and the crude is Mooring two massive ships at sea for up to 18 hours, linked via a floating line which itself is also rinsed to remove the salt, which is highly corrosive to refinery installations. worth millions of dollars, is an intricate exercise. As it is cold when it comes from the well, and further chilled by the sea as it passes through As the tanks are emptied, inert gas (i.e. devoid of oxygen) is pumped in to make it almost lines under its own pressure, the oil must first be warmed in a heat exchanger. The warming aids impossible for a spark to ignite – a standard procedure in petroleum carrying vessels. the separation of the oil from the water and gas in the first separator tank. The distribution of the cargo throughout the process – and also through normal production The gas rises to the top while the water sinks to the bottom. A weir inside the vessel retains the operations – is carefully monitored as the ship must be constantly balanced to avoid strain on water, allowing the oil to flow over it into the surge vessel, which separates out any remaining gas. the structure. For instance it is not possible to simply empty one tank and move onto the next. Lines from the surge and separator vessels take the gas to a gas skid, which runs a generator to As a further precaution, Ocean Producer has a constant companion at such times: safety power deck operations, before it feeds through to a flare to burn off the excess. vessel Seabulk Raven, which stands by during loading, as well as during normal operations, The oil is then pumped to a desalting tank, which uses pure water to rinse any salt from the ready to assist in any emergency. ❖

26 SONANGOL UNIVERSO AUTUMN 2004 27 HEALTH An Ounce of Prevention Sonangol has far-reaching infrastructure in place to promote the welfare of its employ- ees, particularly with respect to Angola’s two serious public health problems – malaria and HIV/Aids.

alaria, one of the main causes of death in Angola and the greatest killer of children, does not trouble Adelaide Jordão Monteiro any more. Instead of Mwaking up, fighting the mosquitoes every night, she and her children sleep peacefully, protected by new treated mosquito nets. “I have had a lot of malaria over the years. But the children and I have not caught it since we got our first mosquito nets in March last year. Today the children some- times complain about toothache or stomach pains, but they never get the dreadful fever caused by malaria. In fact, we hardly ever talk about malaria in my house any more,” she says. Malaria has traditionally been a serious public health problem in Angola, but because Adelaide works for Sonangol, she receives free mosquito nets. Malaria-carrying mosquitoes thrive in the stagnant water of Luanda’s streets and there are generally outbreaks every year. Some 1.3 million cases of malaria are reported each year, with at least 11,000 deaths. The disease accounts for 35 per cent of out-patient consultations in hospitals and health posts, 20 per cent of hospital admissions and 40 per cent of perinatal “We are making deaths. “sure that Sonangol “I still have problems with mosquitoes in my house. They are everywhere – by the TV, on the veranda. I think all Angolans have a special relationship with them, not plays its part in the just in the bedroom,” Adelaide says with a big smile. “When you sit by the TV you can government’s drive defend yourself. It is harder in bed and mosquito nets are the only way to protect yourself.” to improve health Adelaide has worked for Sonangol for 10 years and always uses the clinic when standards through- she or someone in her family is ill. The Angolan government is currently taking part in the World Health out the country.” Organisation’s Roll Back Malaria programme. By tackling the disease on many fronts – with the provision of mosquito nets and insecticides, the training of health workers Dr Cremilda Hall de Lima, and the introduction of new anti-malarial drugs – it hopes to reduce the number of N A

” M

Director, Sonangol malaria cases by 60 per cent over the next ten years. Sonangol is making sure it plays R E B L Y Z Health Department a full role in this campaign. T N E R U A L

28 SONANGOL UNIVERSO AUTUMN 2004 29 Sonangol employee is diagnosed with Sagrada Esperança. When the baby is born, the HIV/Aids, he or she is provided with all the she brings it here for the normal monitoring necessary medication, including anti-retrovi- and vaccinations.” rals, at a heavily subsidised price. As well as this clinic in Luanda, Sonangol Along with these measures to treat the runs health posts in the provinces. It provides disease, Sonangol actively encourages its the normal health services, along with vacci- employees to do what they can to guard nation programmes. “The doctors in these against becoming infected. “We’ve been put- posts send serious cases to us, here in Luanda, ting up posters and carrying jokey cartoons in to deal with,” says Dr Pedro. “The transport our house journal,” says Dr Hall de Lima. infrastructure is improving all the time, so it is At the same time, the company is distrib- becoming much easier to coordinate with uting a large quantity of free condoms – 57,000 them.” in the first quarter of 2003. Indeed, AIDS- Health treatment should further improve awareness information and free condoms are next year, when a large new private facility, the readily available throughout the Sonangol Girassol Clinic, opens in Luanda. Sonangol will headquarters in Luanda. The whole campaign be contracting it to provide high-quality serv- is being closely coordinated with the Ministry ices for its employees. of Health. Many companies in Angola do not have “We are making sure that Sonangol plays the resources or the commitment to provide its part in the government’s drive to improve their staff with proper health care. But in this health standards throughout the country,” as in other areas, Sonangol is establishing a explains Dr Hall de Lima. “Our immediate new benchmark. As Adelaide and other mem- concern is the welfare of the company’s 6,000 bers of the company’s 6,000-strong workforce C

O employees. We provide free medical consulta- are demonstrating, a healthy worker is a pro- R B I S tions for our staff and their children until they ductive worker. ❖ are 20 years old – and also for their parents, when they are over 60. If medication is required, we provide it at a fraction of the “Our immediate concern is the welfare of the company’s 6,000 employees. cost.” If medication is required, we provide it at a fraction of the cost.” The heart of Sonangol’s health care system “ lies in its two busy clinic facilities in central Dr Cremilda Hall de Lima, Luanda. “There are 147 people working in ” Sonangol’s medical department,” explains Dr Director, Sonangol, Health Department Pedro. “Ten of them are doctors, all of whom are specialists.” “We are working actively among our “But with all the refugees and displaced As well as attending to out-patients, the employees to reduce malaria,” says Dr people returning to the country, we know that clinic has 43 in-patient beds. “Our employees Cremilda Hall de Lima, director of Sonangol’s the number of infected people could explode suffer from the same illnesses as the rest of the health department, sitting in her office in cen- within a few years,” she adds. “Sonangol must population: malaria, gastro-enteritis, respira- tral Luanda. “We provide free mosquito nets to play its part in preventing this from happen- tory diseases, HIV/Aids and so on,” Dr Pedro all staff with children, and just as important, ing.” continues. “If a patient requires specialist we monitor the use of these nets. It’s no use if The company has been working on vari- treatment that we can’t provide, we call in an employee takes the net and then puts it ous fronts to achieve this. Firstly, it has been other doctors. We can also send urgent cases away in a drawer and forgets about it!” taking steps to raise awareness among elsewhere, usually to the private Clínica Sonangol also carries out a continuing employees about the symptoms of the disease. Sagrada Esperança, with which we have a awareness campaign to persuade its employ- “We began to do this, and then quite soon we close relationship.” ees to take all possible measures to reduce the registered an increase in the number of people It is clear from the number of pregnant chances of becoming infected. being diagnosed with the illness in our clinic,” women and recent mothers attending the clin- Another serious problem – and one that is says one of the clinic’s doctors, Dr Gertrude ic, that pre- and post-natal care take up a great attracting increasing attention locally – is Pedro, taking time out from her busy schedule deal of the doctors’ time. “We monitor preg- SAFETY POSTER: HIV/Aids. “We believe that Angola has a rela- to talk about her work. nancies and where there are no abnormalities, “Sonangol United against tively low incidence, something like 7 to 8 per “It could give the impression that AIDS is we send the mother-to-be to Luanda’s main HIV/Aids. Practice safe cent of the population, compared with neigh- growing more prevalent, but we don’t think maternity hospital to have her baby,” says Dr sex, use condoms.” bouring African countries,” says Dr Hall de this is the case. People have just become more Pedro. “If we think labour may be difficult or Lima. aware, which is a very good thing.” If a complicated, we send her to the Clínica

30 SONANGOL UNIVERSO AUTUMN 2004 31 32 SONANGOL UNIVERSO INSIDEANGOLA Ever good things those whohusbanditto endlessly fascinating their Angola isacountryofcontrasts coast, theAtlanticteamswitha from theAntarctic ontheBenguelaCurrent, allalongthe insatiable desir The nent aboundsina Wherever there is and optimistic,allgenerationsare now and aboveallofconfidenceinits opportunities u As theunhappydecadesof zens are its memory, the the European andAfrican a colonial nexpected vast hinterland capital nation y nation heritage brightest jewels cultural treasures, , Luandaisthesettingfora focus and e to – whilethankstothecoldwaterscarried is definedbyitspeople–andwiththeir that present themselves oneveryside. water preserving rich array embrace thefutur of Angolansisnowon . architecture andlifestyles stretching totheverycore ofconti- produce acornucopia , thelanditself countryside. of wildlifethatinhabitsthe last centuryfade . Hard working,enthusiastic plentiful variety the worthwhile future o f naturalabundance, seizing the unique blend and surprises,of amply rewards . e, rebuilding Angola’ aspects s citi of of into , and fish - of of .

TRYGVE BOLSTAD/ PANOS PICTURES AUTUMN 2004 33 REGIONAL FOCUS Nurturing Waters Life is not easy in the dry southern province of Cunene, but local people show spirit and resourcefulness as they exploit every opportunity to improve their lot.

he south of Angola is a dry semi-desert has been skillfully rebuilt in a modern style of scattered thorn bushes, low trees and that shows the close links with its southern Tmighty baobabs, where life is sustained neighbour, Namibia. by seasonal rains and the Cunene River which These ties reach further than construction runs westward from the interior to mark the styles and city planning: the city’s many kiosks, border with Namibia. shops, bars and restaurants are crammed with In Cunene Province, water is an ever-pres- Namibian food and beers. Likewise, the gigan- ent issue, a treasure that is conserved with tic open market is full of Namibian goods and great care and shared by the people with their many of those who go there drive in cars most precious possession: cattle. Some 90 per imported from Namibia. cent of the population of around 800,000, scat- “The benefit we gain from the border tered in an area roughly the size of Portugal, crossing at Santa Clara is clearly visible. It live off agriculture and cattle. helps us to make the south of Angola an area At first sight, life seems to have changed of high development, security and stability. little. Very early in the morning, as the soft Our objective is to attract private investment light appears after another cool night, fisher- in all areas,” explains Pedro Mutindi, men in the Cunene River empty their nets. Cunene’s Governor. Inland, away from the river, men, women and His views are shared by local people, who children walk along paths, carrying brightly are eager to rebuild their province and the coloured buckets, small tubs and drums, in country. The improvements that have already order to collect water from the man-made been made are most visible in Ondjiva. In the “The best place to rainwater pools. last two years the city has expanded dramati- put the net is here Once the people have satisfied their own cally to the south and east, creating an “ needs, they distribute the water to their cows, industrial area and several fashionable resi- by the reeds or donkeys and goats. In winter time, the con- dential areas. The airport is being upgraded to cern with water grows even more pressing, as international standards to meet the growing where the two cur- the supply shrinks people wait for the rains. demands of business with neighbouring coun- rents meet.” Cunene was largely untouched by the tries such as Namibia and South Africa. later stages of the war and few traces remain of These are busy times for F A Lubamba , ” Mateus Walipi the damage that was done in the 1980s and one of the biggest private companies in Fisherman, Cunene River T S I V

Q early 1990s. The provincial capital, Ondjiva, Cunene. The firm embraces a large number of G R E B

N A H O J AUTUMN 2004 35 businesses, but construction and cars are its electricity, the rest will follow. With an extend- main sources of income, while the trade with ed electricity grid we can use power to deliver Namibia is crucial to the company. water from the Cunene River to the fields. “Sometimes it is hard to get support and This will lead to an agricultural sector that merchandise from Luanda. It is easier to bring is more efficient. Hunger will be killed and a the goods from Namibia, since the distance is food surplus will be created that can be sold to much shorter, the roads are better and the other provinces and even exported,” he says. prices are much lower. It would be better to Mutindi also wants to take advantage of use the Atlantic Ocean to get goods from his people’s historic knowledge of cattle. Luanda, but that is still too expensive,” says “Cattle are our riches and main business. More T S I

Franklin Ndusho, one of the firm’s directors. abattoirs should be opened and we should V Q G R E

Ndusho is confident that Cunene will be make clothes and soap from the by-products. B

N A an important province in the near future, but This is a priority.” ❖ H O J

: S O

thinks it is vital to put more money into edu- T O H cation and infrastructure. P “We depend too much on Namibia as it is. We depend more on Namibia than on Angola. At the moment it is good for us – it makes our Traditional Life business activities grow – but in the long run it would be better for the country, and for us, to ing to their old customs, making it a unique place make money from Angolan resources.” The Kwanyama people, who are the to visit for those interested in African culture. COUNTRY LIFE: The Agostinho Neto University will open a largest ethnic group in Cunene, are farmers, But the Cunene River is probably the most caring for their herds is a faculty of law soon. Paulo Tankondjele is one and many will not devote time to study for a attractive part of the province. Large crocodiles constant theme in the life of of the young men who want to attend it. He university degree: the care of their arid land rest on the banks in Xangongo, where the busy the Kwanyama peoples who was born as the bombs destroyed the old and their cattle take up too much time and road between Santa Clara and Lubango crosses inhabit Cunene’s wide Ondjiva. His father was a Unita rebel fighter effort. But the Kwanyama are accustomed to from the south and the Portuguese from the the river via a man-made embankment. The green savannah lands. and took his family to the bush, which is this for their ancestors have been living thus north. But in 1917, he realised the two powers delta-like area makes a dramatic contrast with the where Paulo grew up. By the time he was 13 he for 30,000 years. Their cultural roots are were too strong for his army of farmers with otherwise dry landscape. Wetland birds mingle had had enough of the fighting and his tough shared with the San people, who inhabited bows, spears and clubs, so he committed suicide with birds of the dry lands – turacos, hornbills and life on the run, so he ran away. most of Botswana and then migrated west, to to avoid the humiliation of being ruled by a colo- bee-eaters – and the speedy swallow. Most of the “I walked through the bush for 14 days, northern Namibia and southern Angola. nial power. people live from fishing. eating what I found in the forest and some- Orga is an 11-year-old Kwanyama girl. King Mandume is still a hero, and in 2002 a After a busy day Mateus Walipi rests with his times stealing some maize. I made it through She and her younger brothers are looking after memorial was built jointly by Angolans and fellow fishermen, eating the hard, sour and vita- to Namibia and presented myself to the a herd of cattle grazing in the light-green and Namibians in Oihole, close to Namakunde in min-rich fruit of the baobab. The fires are burning, authorities,” he says. yellow grass, among thorn bushes and trees southern Cunene, the place of his death. It is one waiting for the fresh fish to be grilled. Walipi had He was recognised as a refugee and was with leathery leaves. The herd includes several of the locations that Boleth Sallú, a local business- a good catch this morning. The floor of his log granted a scholarship at a school in the capi- calves, adding to Angola’s herd of around man, wants to promote in his growing tourism canoe is filled with fish. tal, Windhoek where he finished his 12th grade three million cattle. The animals have had a business. “The best place to put the net is here by the a year ago. He returned to Angola hoping to drink of water and Orga is taking them home. “In five years, Cunene is going to be a great reeds, or where two currents meet,” he says as he “In five years Cunene track down his parents and other family mem- Long shadows follow them as the afternoon place. I am convinced that tourists from Namibia, gently pushes his canoe forward. “I make a good bers. He found a sister and a brother, but his sun is setting; the dry breeze from the south is South Africa and even Europe will be lining up to income, between $15 and $20 every day. The “is going to be a great parents were already dead. waning and the temperature is sinking. come here soon,” he says, sitting in the shadow of future is unknown, but the present is good, so I place. I am convinced “It is good to be back, because I was born Deolito, the eldest of Orga’s younger an omwoongo tree. When the small fruits of the why should I complain?” here. I can move as I like and press for my brothers, carries his bow and arrows – as many tree are ripe, pots around the province will be boil- His good spirit is easily found in Cunene – it is that tourists from ideas on development, and I have my freedom. boys and young men in this part of Angola still ing with home-made Amarula, the popular certainly hard to find any complaints at the busy Namibia, South Africa I want to develop this place and make sure do – in case a bird or a small animal comes his liqueur-like drink consumed in southern Africa. market in Ondjiva when night falls. The whole everybody will be given the same standard of way. Deolito is likely to take his sister’s role “I will take the tourist for adventurous bush market place becomes a party open to everybody, and even Europe will living in terms of access to water and electrici- when she has gone through fiko, a ritual that drives, build facilities by the river for boat rides, where fires are lit, food and drink are abundant be lining up to come ty. The future depends on people like me as admits her to womanhood. But for now, she is rafting and other memorable experiences,” Sallú and spirits are high. The kuduru and kisomba much as on the government,” Paulo says. the boss. continues. “The bank has already agreed to give music mix with the sound of African drums and here soon.” Governor Mutindi is well aware of the “We have many cattle now. Look at that me a loan for this. They are really willing to help the trilling of the nocturnal animals. Boleth” Sallú problems with water and electricity. Cunene ox – it is a fine animal,” she says, pointing to people who want to invest.” Some 100kms away, the fishermen rest to the Tourism operator, Oihole, relies on Namibia for most of its electricity and it. Less than a hundred years ago, her people For tourists who choose to come, the culture soothing sound of the Cunene River, as it slowly Cunene Province much of its drinking water. had a proud and strong king, Mandume Ya is alive and rich. In the Oucócua region, 200kms finds its way to the horizon and to the great “If we can solve the problems of water and Ndemufayo. He fought the British, who came west of Ondjiva, seven tribes live together accord- Atlantic Ocean. ❖

36 SONANGOL UNIVERSO AUTUMN 2004 37 AGRICULTURE

Once a bread basket for southern Africa, Angola is rediscovering its agricultural potential. Organic Growth

ust two years ago a 300-hectare plot, 30kms Terra Verde’s small makeshift shop is busy with north of Luanda was a barren, rocky waste- weekend customers, although the company Jland where little grew except for shrubs also sells to supermarkets and other big com- and wild bushes. But it has been transformed panies. into an oasis of green success – living proof Many clients come back time and again, that Angola has what it takes to feed itself and happy to brave the road trip from the capital, many others. which can take anything from 30 minutes to The farm is called Terra Verde and by com- two hours depending on traffic. bining Israeli know-how with local techniques “It’s unbelievable. You have to taste the and enthusiasm it has already outstripped all produce for yourself to really understand,” its targets. says one devotee, loading his vehicle with fruit “We did better than expected in our first and vegetables, as well as eggs and free-range year – and last year we produced 2,100 tones chickens produced by sister company Avinova. of vegetables, 1,000 tones of fresh chicken and “This is something unique in Angola. The 21 million eggs,” says its laid-back director goods are very tasty, they’re healthy, and general, Erez Engel. “It’s been hard work but they’re available practically all year round. I we’re really satisfied and it’s beautiful to see think we should encourage these people to the results,” he adds. grow more,” he says. Easy to spot from a distance, the farm’s Angola was once a food basket for the sparkling greenhouses sit atop a boundless southern Africa region but conflict brought expanse of gentle rolling hills. Driving closer much of its agriculture industry to a standstill. down a neat gravel path, the visitor is greeted Today, the country imports most of the prod- by purple, violet and orange orchids that ucts that are consumed locally, often at vastly colour its borders. inflated prices and of inferior quality. Stretches of rich green fields brimming One of the aims of Terra Verde, which is with fruit and vegetables ripening in the tropi- the brainchild of international businessman cal sun will surely tempt the passer-by to come Arkady Gaidamak, is to spearhead the indus- and discover the treasures this farm holds. try’s comeback. “The idea is to stop “We produce around 16 varieties of fruit Gaidamak, who has been involved in sev- and vegetables here, and they’re all freshly eral social projects in Angola, entirely financed Imports“ and to prove grown in Angola’s naturally rich soil,” Engel this $15 million undertaking. A joint venture that Angolans can pro- says, surveying the land. with an Angolan company, the idea being to He reels off a long list, including butternut spur agricultural production. duce their own good squash, several varieties of tomato and melon, What began as something of an experi- quality products.” peppers, cucumber, lettuce, chillies and ment has already shown that Angolan farming aubergine, before his memory fails him. can today be better than ever before, given the Erez Engel “There are so many. I can’t remember right equipment, knowledge and conditions. Director” General, them all,” he says. “The idea is to stop imports and to prove Terra Verde Farm S

E With all this on offer, it is no surprise that that Angolans can produce their own, good G A M I

Y T T E

G AUTUMN 2004 39 desert. I’m very proud. Look at these tomatoes “We’re going to build a playground, we in the open field. People said it was impossible want to put in a mini-golf course and a restau- but this is the proof. “Many say that Africa is rant, so that the whole family can come, do dead but that’s not true. Look around you – their shopping but also have a great day out,” Africa will be the future,” Boone comments. Engel says. He is quick to add that the farm’s soaring Locking up the farm shop after a busy success is thanks to the sheer hard work and Saturday’s trading, Carneiro is exhausted but determination of the locals. happy, and upbeat about the future of the “It’s the Angolans who really made this place what it is today. It’s their land and “they are the ones who’ve built this place up from scratch.” Herman Boone Commercial” Director,Terra Verde Farm

“It’s the Angolans who really made this business and the industry as a whole. place what it is today. It’s their land, and they “The project will become an example for are the ones who’ve built this place up from all of us. Growing our own food is the first, scratch,” he says. It is clear from the dedica- vital step in our country’s development. tion of the 400-strong workforce that this is a “This is the first project of its kind in fun and rewarding place to work. Angola but I hope it’s not the last. From the “We’re inexperienced in these methods labourers to the managers, we’re all learning but we’re here to apply what we are learning,” how to do things and we all feel very happy says one of Terra Verde’s Angolan general man- about that. Everybody here thinks we need agers, Dárcio Carneiro, who was partly trained more projects like this,” he says. ❖ in Israel. quality products,” says Engel. of the people who’ve made it through our Indeed the positive benefits have already VINE RIPENED: Encouraged by the achievements in its course have gone back to their villages and had a ripple effect. As well as providing jobs on tomatoes and chilli peppers first full year of business, the founders of Terra taught their own parents new and better ways the farm, former students of the school are are carefully prepared for Verde are making moves to find new partners to work the land. It’s amazing, they’re starting taking their knowledge further afield and customers in Luanda and and to copy their project in other parts of the to use fertilisers and are buying more sophisti- enjoying great success. markets farther afield. country. They want the original concept to cated equipment.” “Last year, there were fewer vegetables serve as a blueprint. Bringing together state-of-the-art technol- being sold along the side of the road than now “Our new projects may be of different ogy from abroad, the project, which its owners and they were of a poorer quality. I can tell you sizes,” Engel says. “They could be double or say is the only one of its kind in the world, has when I look today, I can see they’re really get- RURAL CHARM: just a fraction of the size of this one; it nevertheless managed to retain all the charm ting better. We’re going to be in for some a casually tossed straw hat depends on the population and the situation of a small-time farm. competition,” Engel chuckles. adds a touch of informality in the area. We have to adjust to the needs of Amid the pristine greenhouses and preci- “But it’s healthy competition, it’s great to Terra Verde’s carefully each community but we want Terra Verde to sion planning, a straw hat has been casually that they can do this on their own,” he add. planted rows and pristine be a model.” tossed on a picket marking out rows of bright “And we should feel proud because we’re hav- greenhouses. Terra Verde is not only extracting good- red and green chillies. Melon plants are equal- ing a big impact in both a small circle and an ness from Angola’s soil, it is also putting it ly spaced in tidy furrows with each seedling outer circle.” back, by teaching people new and better ways peeking through a carefully laid protective Engel has every reason to be satisfied. One to make the most of the country’s riches. covering, while rustic hand-written signs detail of the main goals of the project is to help An agricultural school, Sequele, attached the variety and the date the seeds were sown. Angolans help themselves. to its premises, offers free three-month cours- Building the farm up to its present state “Part of the idea behind it is humanitari- es for around 40 students at a time. was an adventure. Commercial director an – to teach the people to farm on their own. Engel bills the training as a practical Herman Boone has been hands-on since day Of course if we can recover part of the invest- “everything-you-need-to-know-about-agricul- one and has witnessed its impressive progres- ment that would be nice. But it doesn’t matter ture” programme, which teaches a budding sion. “I ruined two four-wheel drives just when that happens, it could be three years, generation of new cultivators how to get the putting in the posts to mark out the borders of eight years or never,” he says. best from their land. the farm,” he recalls, reminiscing about the Still, the work is far from over. Boone and “The old-fashioned method of doing early days. Engel are hatching plans to expand the idea things is tough, but modern-day farmers really Pointing to rows of ripening tomatoes, he away from pure production and sales into a shouldn’t have a difficult life,” he says. “Some adds: “There was nothing here, it was like a real farmyard experience.

40 SONANGOL UNIVERSO AUTUMN 2004 41 ARCHITECTURE

Luanda is a riot of building styles, coming mainly from Portuguese colonialists and modern architects, that knit together to create a vibrant, visually pleasing capital city.

he 16th century fortress of São Miguel Miguel. This is the oldest area of Portuguese overlooks the bay, an enduring outline in settlement, with something of the splendour Tthe ever-changing skyline of downtown of the buildings of that time, and Rua dos Luanda. It marks the coming of the Portuguese Mercadores is one of the best-hidden treasures colonialists, just as the modern city’s silhou- from the 17th and 18th centuries to be ette signals the economic growth achieved encountered in the central part of Luanda. during the post-colonial era after Angolan It is a narrow street, between less spectac- independence. ular buildings from the 1960s and was used as The two architectural styles have blended a marketplace – the doorways of the tiny shops together, embedded in the pure architecture of are still there. Some houses have been restored nature itself. The bay of Luanda, surrounded and breathe with the confidence of the best by the peninsulas of Ilha de Cabo and Mediterranean architecture. Delicate orna- Mussulo, and the rising slopes of Cidade Alta, ments, balconies and window-panes, cast iron is a place of natural beauty and the perfect lamps and flowers give the feeling of being far location for a booming capital. away from Africa. T S I V Q G R E B

N A H O J

: S O T O H P Even a short walk in the city blasts the vis- At the end of the street, the old Grande itor with architectural impressions. High-rise Hotel hints at former grandeur. Though it is in commercial property, two-storey 19th century a bad state at the moment, the fantastic stair- residential houses and dense settlements, ways, gardens and salons are still easy to known as musseques, co-exist in an unexpect- imagine, and the hotel is due to be restored. ed manner that never lets the senses to relax. “It will open as a hotel again. Right now “Luanda was the first European city in we do not know when, but it will be the sub-Saharan Africa, built in the later part of Grande Hotel once again, with all its 52 rooms the 16th century,” explains Allan Cain, a and magnificent entrances. A Brazilian has Canadian architect who has lived in Luanda bought it and the reconstruction will start for more than 15 years. “As the city grew – a soon,” says Francisco Alberto, one of the Urban fascinating urban fabric was created, with the hotel’s caretakers. COLONIAL STYLE: Portuguese style and the African style in paral- At the other end of the old city stands a from its crowded musse- lel. Even today the styles are mixed. You can building designed by one of the masters of ques to the grand facades find modern architecture in buildings along a world architecture – Gustave Eiffel. He is the of public buildings, Luan- street and a totally different style in the small man behind the outstanding, yet somewhat da's eclectic architecture alleyways and back streets linked to them.” incongruous, Palácio de Ferro (Iron Palace). presents an enduring reflec- The most obvious place to see this mix is Eiffel never visited Luanda himself. The Palace tion of its European and Fabric around Coqueiros, below the fortress of São was pre-constructed and shipped to Angola at African heritage. 42 SONANGOL UNIVERSO AUTUMN 2004 43 the beginning of the 20th century. It is current- started in the musseques, where the streets torn down to give space for these buildings, examples. Several official buildings were also ly in the care of the Ministry for Culture and were too narrow and the population too dense instead of being preserved,” says Cain. “I can’t designed in this style, with tall, narrow door- renovation is expected, though it is not defi- for the police to even enter,” notes Cain. see a clear trend for what the new style of the ways that were intended to make the visitor nitely scheduled. But some of the African settlements have commercial buildings will be. Many of the feel small. In the mid-18th century, when the Grande survived even in the central parts of Luanda. Portuguese buildings from the 1950s are being The Catholic University is different, even Hotel was built, the city was expanding in an Urban musseques are still being created but changed to include mirror glass and other though the style is a mix between neo-baroque anarchic fashion. It was growing quickly as the oldest are found on the Ilha. In the 16th modern features. Personally, I’m not too excit- and neo-classical. This rather pompous build- more and more Portuguese settled there, and century, the Ilha was still an island (it is now a ed about this style,” he adds. ing with its classic pale pink colour overlooks the streets were laid out in haphazard fashion. peninsula), and was inhabited for some time Many of the houses from the mid-20th the Cidade Baixa and the Atlantic Ocean and is This peculiar pattern is still clearly visible. by a representative of the King of Congo. century are large, tall buildings almost resem- a haven for the few nuns and their young Luanda can be viewed as a funnel, where the Buildings very similar to the old fishermen’s bling an eastern European or Russian suburb. scholars. Earlier, in 1979, the building was streets eventually end up in the Cidade Baixa houses can still be found on the Ilha, next to One part of the so-called concrete city starts at more or less abandoned – only used on a very and finally at the port. Catholic churches and square-shaped hotels the top of Avenida Combatente Valódia and few occasions. The result was devastating. Over time, with Angola officially becom- from the 1970s, such as the Marinha and runs all the way to Kinaxixi, which is one of “The roof of the chapel was destroyed, ing a Portuguese colony following the 1875 Panorama hotels. Luanda’s oldest areas. People settled around fires broke out in the salons and the general Berlin Conference, Cidade Baixa became an The Panorama Hotel was completed in the water fountain at Kinaxixi and it eventually condition of the building deteriorated rapidly,” increasingly European area. More than 100,000 1973. It has since become one of Luanda’s became a big square and a market. says Sister Conceição. But an extensive renova-

“Luanda was the first European city in sub-Saharan Africa. As it grew, a fascinating “urban fabric was created by the Portuguese style in parallel with the African style.” Allan Cain, Architect, Luanda” At the end of the 1970s, a large building tion programme was completed two years ago, E N

E was created for the market traders. This is a with help from Sonangol and Esso. The exqui- S S A L T M L S E E I favourite of another architect in Luanda, Nuno site spires of the towers, the window-panes L V D L

I I Q R

E E G R H H

E Menano. “It is a superb modern building. It and archways, the courtyard and the chapel – P P B

O O T T N S S I I A R R can be used for anything,” he says. full of blue and white tiles – seem to shine with H H H O J C C The Kinaxixi market was recently closed pleasure in the light of the setting sun. people had settled in Luanda by the late landmarks, with the the enormous letters of its and the buildings are now under threat. They The architect working on the renovations 1940’s, but still no real city plan had been name on top of the building facing the city are in poor condition after more than 25 years described the light in the building as “a play drawn up. Many old settlements, parks, monu- centre on the other side of the bay. However, of neglect. As there is a plan to build a modern between sunlight and shadow that brings out a ments and buildings were destroyed, and by the open spaces, balconies and built-in venti- mall in place of the old market, Luanda is like- dynamic movement”. In addition, there are the 1970’s the city had almost 500,000 inhabi- lation shafts of the construction are features ly to lose one of its landmarks. several other examples of Salazar-style archi- tants. Currently, Luanda is home to around found in Luandan architecture ever since the But despite Menano’s fascination for some tecture around Luanda, but not as many as four million people. first settlers arrived. of the 1960s and 1970s buildings, his focus is one would expect. Except for some houses around Coqueiros Such features are best shown in the typical more on the future of Luandan architecture. “Many architects in Portugal felt and Cidade Alta, most of the houses built bourgeois buildings that date from the mid- He has developed some areas of the com- oppressed by this style. They came to Luanda before the mid-20th century are gone. Official 19th century. Most of them had two floors, the pounds in Atlântico Sul outside Luanda and is and were able to work in a more open-minded and religious buildings – like the customs upper level being used for sleeping and living, one of the people who have been asked to pro- manner. That is why the architecture of this house, the presidential palace, the episcopal while the ground floor was often a shop. These duce proposals for a new commercial building city is a bit freer than what you see in Portugal residence and a number of churches – are houses were ventilated by verandas, balconies, in Cidade Baixa. from the same period,” Menano says. almost the only ones now standing. A few archways and windows. Symmetry was impor- “I have made a proposal for a 25-storey The beauty of the Banco Nacional does neatly ornamented residential buildings in tant. The door was always in the middle of the building with three towers. One is for offices, not impress him. But Allan Cain disagrees. “I Cidade Alta still have the old gardens and the house, flanked by two windows on each side. another is for a hotel and the third is for hous- think the Marginal is the nicest part of modern slaves’ quarters but most other houses have Houses such as these are likely to remain, but ing. It is very American, but they adore Luanda. The pillars and archways of the build- WELL CONSERVED: been demolished in favour of high-rise build- the old 16th and 17th century buildings are at America and this is the style they want,” ings are gracious and appropriate,” he says. classic colonial proportions, ings from the 1960s and 1970s. The economy risk again. In the last two years a new boom of Menano says. These two different views show clearly innovative 19th century con- was booming then, and the Portuguese want- construction has begun because during the His design is very different from the that architecture is like any other art – highly struction techniques and ed new, modern accommodation. war few houses were built, so today the need Salazar-style houses of the 1950s, where individual. Someone might dislike a building timeless art deco design “There was a plan to tear down all the for new offices, hotels and housing for the everything was faked to mimic 1700s architec- in Luanda, while for others it is a showpiece. demonstrate the varied influ- houses in Coqueiros and the musseques in the growing population has become urgent. ture. The Colégio São José de Cluny, better However, it is perhaps safe to say that there is ences that have shaped the 1960s. The rebellion against the colonial gov- “New high-rise buildings are being con- known as the Catholic University, and the something to appeal to most tastes in the skylines of Luanda and Lobito. ernment stopped that. The uprising probably structed. The old neighbourhoods might be Banco Nacional by the Marginal are prime Angolan capital. ❖

44 SONANGOL UNIVERSO AUTUMN 2004 45 SPORT

One for all and all for one, is the cry of the Angolan women’s handball team as it sweeps all competition aside.

or those who have never seen it before, heaviest player is Elisa, at 90 kilos, while our handball can be a frightening sport. Players smallest and lightest player weighs 47 kilos, Fmove up and down the court quite slowly just half Elisa’s weight.” comments Gomes. “In and then suddenly launch an attack on goal. fact, weight in itself isn’t important. What mat- The aggression of the players at these moments ter are fitness and technique.” Each match is palpable: woe betide anyone who tries to involves 14 players, seven on the court and stop them. After watching a match, no specta- seven on the bench. Two trainers, a doctor and tor would be surprised to hear Elisa Webba a masseur travel with the team. Tort, the 35-year-old captain of the highly suc- The Petro Club pays a small monthly wage cessful Angolan women’s handball team, says to 24 female handball players. The amount she likes the sport because it is brutal. varies from around $4,000 to $12,000 a year, “You have to really fight to win a match,” depending on the individual’s skill and experi- she explains. “I love that feeling of combat.” ence. “It’s not very much, considering that in The women’s team has won the African the run-up to matches we have two training Handball Championship seven times and has sessions a day, five days a week,” says Elisa. Hand It qualified for the Olympics three times, includ- ing this year’s event in Athens. “I’ve been “The money makes all the difference for us. It fortunate enough to play in all the matches means we can contribute to the family income that brought these successes,” says Elisa, a tall, and afford to eat properly, which is essential if to the we are training.” well-built woman. “It’s brought us all quite a lot of prestige and put handball firmly on the The women’s success has also, in a way, Angolan map.” been an advance for the feminist movement in The main training ground for handball Angola. “I have a five-year-old daughter”, says players is the Petro (Atlético Petroleos de Elisa. “I travelled abroad to play when she was Luanda) Sports Club in Luanda, which is fund- just four months old. My husband was won- ed by Sonangol. The women’s team coach is derful in the way he looked after her by Armando Gomes, universally known as himself.” However there are some tensions, Girls “Culau” – the popular term for a football back, particularly as the men’s handball team has a position he used to play. Gomes, who has been far less successful. “There has been some worked as a sports coach since 1980, has been jealousy,” admits Gomes, “but no more than in charge of the women’s team for the last four one would expect.” years. “They’re a good group of women to Perhaps surprisingly, some of the women’s work with,” he says. “They are very determined victories came during some of the most violent and never give up.” phases of the war. “At times, we could hear Part of Angola’s success comes from the shooting in the street when we were training,” active role of clubs and schools in training says Gomes. But Elisa believes that all the youngsters. Most of the team started playing insecurity merely strengthened their resolve to “You have to really handball before they were 10 years old. Some, play well. “We just had to see the Angolan flag like Elisa, began by accident. “I started playing “fight to win a fluttering in the wind and we became even basketball at school when I was 11,” she says. match. I love that “I showed promise so the local club wanted more determined to win. It really gave us me to start training in the evenings. My par- extra strength.” feeling of combat.” ents said I was too young to go home by Today, however, the hostilities are firmly myself at night. So I switched to handball, in the past. There are two women on the team Elisa Webba Tort C H

R who come from provinces that supported the Captain, Angolan Women’s I because the training took place in the after- S T ” O P

H noon. I took to the game like a duck to water opposition forces. “Today we all work closely Handball Team E

I L L E

M and have never looked back.” together,” says Elisa. “Um por todos, todos por A S S

E ❖ N Women players come in all sizes. “Our um – One for all, all for one!” E

46 SONANGOL UNIVERSO AUTUMN 2004 47 GASTRONOMY Fried Green RICARDO BELIEL Caterpillars

Angolan food is exotic and full of character, but those looking for a low-carb diet are advised to steer clear.

omingas Pedro Manuel throws back her en stew in a palm nut sauce, to smoked and head and laughs, showing off a brilliant grilled locally-caught fish and squid, accompa- Dsmile. She casts a generous handful of nied by an assortment of vegetables brought in fresh herbs into one of her favourite dishes, from the nearby agricultural green-belt. calulu de carne seca, a stew made with Connoisseurs say it is no surprise that the spinach-like leaves and dried meat, which will restaurant is packed every weekend because, be part of a sumptuous Angolan buffet. Angolan cuisine, little known beyond the She describes her job as chef at one of country’s borders, is varied, colourful and Luanda’s most popular restaurants as an an art tasty. she does for love. A traditionally-built 40-year “Angolan food is very diverse, very exot- old with a husky voice and booming belly ic,” says José Antonio Torres, who is laugh, Domingas has presided over a team of researching a book on food from each of the cooks at the Tambarino restaurant for 11 years. country’s 18 provinces. “Cooking is an art but it’s also a great “In Luanda, you often see people eating responsibility. It’s the profession I chose and I the same kinds of food but if you go deeper do it with all the care and love in the world,” into the interior, you find some quite different she says, taking a short break from the heat of and sometimes unusual dishes. the kitchen. “For example I went to Uige province in It is 1.30pm on a Saturday afternoon and the north of the country and I tried catatos – the restaurant is almost empty. But that is nor- caterpillars. When you see them alive, it’s a bit preparing for lunch. It has plenty of heart and unusual home-brews such as natural palm mal here at the weekend, bizarre but when they’re lots of body. It’s got a really strong character,” wine, a powerful alcoholic palm tree extract. explains manager Luis cooked or fried with garlic, he says. Popular in the northern Cabinda province, the HAPPY: Chef Domingas Salgado. “Saturday is a day for they taste really good – a Those looking for a low-fat, low-calorie cloudy liquid is left to ferment for days to allow Pedro Manuel describes the family to get together and bit like prawns,” he com- diet may be advised to steer clear. Rich in oil its robust flavours and potency to develop. her work as an art she share time and food with ments. Digging into a plate and heavy in carbohydrates, the lunchtime Drunk from wine glasses and perfect to does for love. friends. There’s no hurry to of funge, a popular stodgy meal will see all but the greediest through to accompany a traditional Angolan meal, it is “Angolan food is full of (inset) eat early or quickly,” he adds. corn or manioc dish, and breakfast the next morning. easy to over indulge. However, Angolans have By 2.00pm it is a different feijão com óleo de palma – But Domingas reminds would-be dieters found the perfect antidote for the morning “tastes and aromas and TRADITIONAL: Moamba story. Eager clients – both beans simmering in a tasty that ingredients are also rich in vitamins. after the night before. is very nutritious, it has of chicken, funji of bombô Angolan and foreign – are palm-oil sauce, he is brim- “Angolan food is very nutritious and with Ask anyone how to cure a hangover and and okra are longtime already lining up to sample a ming with enthusiasm. all the vegetables like gimboa (a leaf vegetable their answer will surely be the infamous plenty of heart and favourites of Angolan lavish array of traditional “Angolan food is full similar to spinach), kiabo (lady’s fingers) and muzonge (caldo de peixe) which some say is lots of body.” cuisine. (far right) Angolan fare. of tastes and aromas. couve (kale) you can be sure you’re getting best taken before the headache sets in, accom- The Saturday buffet Through the fragrance plenty of goodness,” she says. panied by gindungo, a hot chilli sauce. José” Antonio Torres offers scores of dishes, from alone you can guess what Locals wines are also healthy and distinc- Made with fish heads, manioc and sweet moamba de galinha, a chick- your neighbours are tive. Resourceful Angolans have devised potato, the caldo (fish soup) is a traditional Food writer, Luanda

48 SONANGOL UNIVERSO AUTUMN 2004 49 Gabon Congo

Democratic Republic of Congo

Atlantic Ocean R I C A R D O

B E L

I Angola E L

dish which, like most Angolan food, is best delights to an African food fair in Japan and SWEET SUCCESS: when home-made. peanut candy could not fill the buffet plates quickly “I love going out at the weekends – danc- (doce de ginguba) and enough. “People really appreciated Angolan ing, having fun and of course having a few coconut candy (pé de food as much as they did Japanese food. I drinks too,” says Luis Pedro, a bachelor living moleque) provide the cooked lunch and dinner every day and the in the capital. “My friends and I often end up perfect end to a meal at food had all disappeared by the end of each having a caldo at one of the all-night bars in the Tambarino. meal,” she says. Zambia Luanda while we watch the sunrise.” Back in the crisp, cool elegance of “Sharing a meal with the family also adds Tambarino, the sweet-toothed customers are to the flavour. I’m sure it’s important in any tucking into a selection of desserts. culture to eat together but in Angola it’s funda- Finding the last empty corner of their mental to a good meal. Here lunch with family stomachs, they dig into mousse de maracujá and friends can go on till 10.00 or even 11.00 made with locally grown passion fruit, pavé de pm,” Pedro explains. , a delectable desert combining Mother-of-four Domingas says that after gingumba toiling all day in a hot kitchen she prefers to peanuts with sponge biscuits or pastries such prepare simple fare for her family. Typical of as pastel de nata, a vanilla-flavoured pastry many Angolan households, chicken or beef from Portugal, made fresh on the premises. with spaghetti or rice are their favourites. With its juicy mangoes, sweet papaya, An Angolan through-and-through, delicious pineapples and tasty bananas, the Namibia Domingas is nevertheless not afraid to push succulent flesh of the country’s indigenous back the frontiers of her country’s cuisine. fruit provides the most simple and fitting end Last September she took Angola’s culinary to any Angolan meal. ❖

50 SONANGOL UNIVERSO