BI 074-081 Luanda

Both Luanda may have been designated the most expensive city in the world for expats for the third consecutive year, sides of but this fascinating capital still has options for every pocket, finds the coin Lula Ahrens PLACES TO SEE n August last year, it happened again. As with many African countries, staples such as rice and Kizomba, a sensual, African dance genre characterised The same murmurs of surprise rippled beans feature heavily in Angolan cuisine as well as fish, by its softer, more romantic rhythm, originated in across the globe when research bureau which is caught daily along the country’s wide coastal strip. Angola. Spectate or, perhaps, even join in with Luanda’s Mercer’s annual Cost of Living survey was Traditional dishes are an enthralling mix of traditional African best dancers, as well as others eager to learn and practise, published. High up the list, which identifies flavours – hot spices and peanut sauces – and Portuguese, a at Kizomba na Rua, or ‘Kizomba in the street’. Held at the the most expensive places to live if you’re an expatriate, hangover from the country’s colonial years. Head to Chicala, at seaside every Sunday at around 5.30pm, enjoy a few hours were all the usual suspects: Hong Kong, Singapore, Zurich, the cheap end of the city, to try proper, home-style local of alcohol – and money–free dancing. See the Facebook group Seoul. But first place for the third consecutive year went delicacies in restaurants like Bella Mar. A simple, typically for details. Once perfected, it’s worth taking your new moves to Luanda, the capital of Angola. Angolan place close to the beach, it serves delicious mufete de to Angolan dance club Maiombe (33/A, R Olivença Bº Nelito For anyone familiar with the country’s recent history, peixe: grilled fish with raw onion sauce and sides for around Soares) for a long, sweaty and very fun night. Entrance costs this isn’t such a shocking revelation. The Marxist-turned- €18. Luanda’s few Ethiopian restaurants are also great for a between €9-€23 and should include a drink. capitalist state has been the world’s fastest-growing cheaper, tasty bite. Located in the musseques (slums), these economy for more than a decade thanks to its abundance one-room, family-run spots don’t have official addresses, of oil. The second-biggest producer in Africa after Nigeria, though just ask a local for directions. Order injera (pictured Top to botom: Luanda’s skyline is a diverse mix of skyscrapers, oil accounts for more than 90% of Angola’s export revenue below); a huge, pancake-shaped flat bread that also acts as colonial buildings and shanty towns; lavish restaurant Oon. and, like any country dealing in black gold, has generated your cutlery, served with a variety of meat, bean and dah ofers high-end dining; five-star hotel Epic Sana Luanda is enormous wealth. vegetable-based Ethiopian delicacies. Around €23pp unlikely to not impress; Luanda has a buzzing nightlife And with wealth comes expats. Tens of thousands of them – ironically, many of them from Angola’s debt-ridden, former coloniser Portugal – have flocked to the city over Luanda’s residents will tell you that there is no such the past decade, lured by the promise of ample, well-paid thing as a cheap hotel in the capital. But that’s not true, jobs. As a result, and due to the country’s dependence on as the historic Hotel Globo (Rua Rainha Ginga 100) proves. foreign imports, prices for expat amenities have soared. Sure, it’s basic, moth-eaten, lacks wi-fi and doesn’t always have Average ‘four-star’ hotels charge around €412 a night. running water, but on the plus side it has a brilliant central Decent family expat accommodation costs between location, the rooms are a decent size, clean and come with air €9,200 and €13,700 per month to rent. conditioning for just €42 (or without for €23). Also, its staff However, Luanda is a place of extremes. Big money sits To party with Luanda’s VIPs you’ll need to head back are super friendly and keen to help. A great option for the side by side with considerable poverty in the city, which to the Ilha. Expensive beach club and award-winning budget-conscious traveller. is an intriguing mix of Portuguese colonial-style buildings, Portuguese restaurant ChillOut (chillout-luanda.com) is a good skyscrapers and shanty towns. The skyline tells the story place to start. Due to its pristine decor, chilled vibes and of what the country has been through: the war of elaborate drinks menu, it’s the best place in town for independence between 1961 and 1974, and the devastating sundowners. Glamorous cocktail lounge Dooh Bar, located civil conflict that followed and ended in 2002. on the third floor of Edifício Escom, Luanda’s highest building, Today the country is a peaceful one, and while certainly attracts the crème de la crème of Angolan society. Its not without its problems, it is a wonderfully diverse, sophisticated outside lounge area, where Champagne is the friendly and exciting place for the visitor, whatever their It’ll come as no surprise to hear that those craving beverage of choice, enjoys wonderful views across the city, budget. Glamorous beach venues and fancy nightclubs are more familiar, Western food – stuff that requires particularly of its marina and extraordinary penthouses. a stone’s throw from simple, ramshackle road cafés, where ingredients to be imported – will have to pay the (much higher) Finally, for dance enthusiasts keen to take the tempo up a the welcome is warm, the food traditional and tasty, and price for it. Such restaurant food is actually often more average notch (or five), head to Jango Veleiro (also on the Ilha). the tables quickly nabbed. Promenades with high-end than the authentic, flavoursome dishes you get downtown, Entrance is free, but drinks here are on the expensive side. stores frame wild, unspoiled beaches, copious cultural though usually comes with a fancy dining space. Undoubtedly Still, the outside dance-floors, music and beach views more entertainment options – theatres, museums, galleries and the ‘in’ place to eat and drink for those with cash to spare is than make up for this point. Spectacular. live music – range from free to several euros and Ilha, where you’ll find luxurious rooftop restaurant Cais de unforgettable safari tours and overnight adventures are Quatro (caisdequatro.com). Here you can munch sushi, risotto, just a 4x4 ride away. steaks and other favourites to a gorgeous city panorama. Or And while Angola’s wealth may rest in the hands try swanky beach spot Coconuts, renowned for its warm, Luanda’s five-star Epic Sana Hotel (Rua da Missão, of the few, it should be remembered that the capital’s chocolate petit gateau. An honourable mention in the Luanda luanda.epic.sanahotels.com) has taken Luanda’s hotel true spirit remains in the domain of ordinary people, who luxe category must also go to immaculately ‘bling’ restaurant standards to a new level and prices to a new high (upwards of continually delight with their friendly and upbeat nature. Oon.dah (oondah.com), which serves Asian fusion and €462 a night). A tip: walk into this luxurious oasis slowly; the That’s why the most memorable experiences won’t Portuguese cuisine alongside an extensive, expensive wine marble-floored cream-coloured, chocolate-box building is necessarily be found at the deeper end of your wallet. and cocktail list. Lastly, Nikki’s House in the Maianga barrio shiny enough to land you horizontally on the floor if you don’t. Here are our tips for all budgets, big and small. also serves decent (but small) fusion and Portuguese dishes Four restaurants, a bar, night club, hairdresser, spa, gym, nail for a steep price. The reason: the venue looks straight out of a salon and a conference centre comfortably caters to the FLY TO LUANDA THREE TIMES WEEKLY. BRUSSELSAIRLINES.COM plush interior design magazine. Expect to pay €60pp+ for all. hotel’s typically higher-end clientele. 78 FEBRUARY 2016 PLACES TO SEE LIEUX À VOIR / PLAATSEN OM TE ZIEN FR Pour toutes les bourses NL Voor elk budget Luanda est la ville rêvée pour tous les budgets. Lula Ahrens nous le démontre. Luanda is een fantastische stad voor elke portemonnee, zegt Lula Ahrens. Depuis plus de dix ans, l’Angola est l’économie mondiale connaissant la Angola is al meer dan een decennium lang de snelst groeiende economie ter croissance la plus rapide, grâce au pétrole qui y abonde. En août dernier, pour la wereld, dankzij zijn overvloed aan olie. Onderzoeksbureau Mercer kondigde in troisième fois, l’enquête annuelle sur le coût de la vie menée par le bureau Mercer augustus vorig jaar aan dat de jaarlijkse kosten voor levensonderhoud in de a placé la capitale Luanda en tête des villes les plus chères pour les expatriés. hoofdstad Luanda het hoogst waren voor expats, en dat al het derde jaar op rij. Il s’agit en efet d’une ville d’extrêmes, où l’opulence voisine avec la Het is inderdaad een stad van uitersten. Rijken en de vele armen delen de pauvreté, dans un décor particulier alliant architecture portugaise, grate-ciel stad, die zelf een vreemde mengeling is van gebouwen in Portugese stijl, et bidonvilles. Ce panorama contrasté illustre l’évolution du pays depuis 50 hoogbouw en barakken. De inconsistente skyline vertelt het verhaal van de ans, de la guerre d’indépendance de 1961 qui a pris fin en 1974 au conflit civil voorbije 50 jaar: van de onafankelijkheidsoorlog in 1961 die pas in 1974 qui a suivi et trouvé sa conclusion en 2002.

Load more