THE GLORY GIFTS FOR KIMYE OLYMPIA’S KIM AND KANYE METTLE OF ARE SET TO WED THIS SUMMER, CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA ’S VICTORIA AND DELLAL PLOTS A ALBERT MUSEUM FETES SO WWD ASKED ITALIAN GLAMOUR FROM NOTABLES WHAT SLOW-BUT-STEADY THE FORTIES TO TODAY, AND THEY’D GET THE EXPANSION FOR FROM ELIZABETH TAYLOR TO NEWLYWEDS. HER ACCESSORIES SOPHIA LOREN. PAGE 9 PAGE 10. BRAND. PAGE 7

BLENDING ONLINE AND STORES Neiman Marcus Unveils Top Management Roles

By DAVID MOIN

THE NEIMAN MARCUS GROUP is tearing down the silos and getting channel agnostic. In a major management change at headquarters, the Dallas-based luxury retailer will today reveal it’s merg- ing its store and online merchandising and planning WEDNESDAY, APRIL 2, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY teams into a single organization. Beginning April 14, WWD the blended organization will be run by Jim Gold, who has been named president and chief merchandising of- fi cer of the Neiman Marcus brand. Gold has been with Neiman’s since 1991, serving most recently as president of specialty retail for Neiman Marcus Group Ltd. LLC. Under the new structure, general merchandise man- agers, divisional merchandise managers and planners will have “omni” responsibilities covering the stores, mail order and e-commerce businesses. However, buy- ers will continue to be channel specifi c, with the buy- ing team for stores and another team of buyers for the direct-to-consumer businesses remaining in place. “We are one brand to our customers. Our custom- ers do not differentiate between channels, and now neither will we,” Karen Katz, president and chief ex- ecutive offi cer of the Neiman Marcus Group, said in an interview explaining the rationale for the reorga- nization. “These changes allow us to operate as one single Neiman Marcus brand, and to make sure we anticipate all of our customers’ needs. Her shopping journey has changed dramatically.” With Gold’s shift, John Koryl has been named presi- dent of Neiman Marcus stores and online. Koryl will be responsible for the store operations and sales, Neiman’s e-commerce operations and sales in the U.S. and abroad, site merchandising, site optimization and customer care. Neiman’s executives said that Koryl will be leading efforts to ensure the customer experi- ence is consistent from channel to channel, or “seam- less.” Koryl joined the company in 2011 and has been serving as president of Neiman Marcus Online, which SEE PAGE 8 What’s Selling For Spring At Contemporary Retailers

By LISA LOCKWOOD

ARE CONSUMERS opening their wallets at last? That’s what retailers are hoping as spring weather begins to arrive nationwide and shoppers emerge from their long winter’s hibernation to refresh their wardrobes. Executives believe this spring could see strong sales given the long winter as well as that fe- male shoppers have not updated their wardrobes in some time. Cat Girl “Looking ahead, we anticipate pent-up consumer Spotted! Leopard prints were all over the fall runways and demand for spring apparel to drive sales as warm- designers in the surf/skate and young contemporary markets er weather returns,” said Michael Niemira, vice president of research and chief economist at the got the memo, too. Here, K-Way Maje’s nylon parka over International Council of Shopping Centers. Cleobella’s sequined silk dress. K/ller Collection necklace. “The apparel business has really not participated For more, see pages 4 and 5. in the last few years in any signifi cant way in terms of the overall growth of our company, and we’ve had fairly signifi cant growth, and so that means to us that it’s not in her closet,” Terry J. Lundgren, chair- man and chief executive offi cer of Macy’s Inc., said last month at the Bank of America Merrill Lynch Consumer & Retail Conference. “So, the customer needs new apparel....I defi nitely believe there’s pent- up demand for apparel.” The ICSC said Tuesday that retail sales last week scored their biggest sequential advance of the year, although lingering wintry weather kept a lid on ap- parel sales. The ICSC and Goldman Sachs weekly chain store sales index rose 3.6 percent in the week

ended Saturday compared with the prior week, PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY

MODEL: BARBARA/MARILYN; HAIR BY KATSUMI MATSUO AND MAKEUP BY CHEYENNE TIMPERIO, BOTH AT ARTMIX BEAUTY; FASHION ASSISTANT: ASHLEY DAVIS ASHLEY ASSISTANT: FASHION BEAUTY; ARTMIX AT BOTH TIMPERIO, CHEYENNE BY MAKEUP AND MATSUO KATSUMI BY HAIR BARBARA/MARILYN; MODEL: SEE PAGE 6 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, APRIL 2, 2014 WWD.COM Nina Ricci Taps Sophie Templier THE BRIEFING BOX troduced with the spring 2014 season. IN TODAY’S WWD By MILES SOCHA Templier and Toledano previously worked to- gether at Chloé, when Toledano was chairman and PARIS — Gearing up for an expansion chief executive officer. At the time, Templier was phase, Nina Ricci is staffing up its fashion Chloé’s deputy managing director. and accessories departments. Asked for an update on the fashion divi- Sophie Templier, product and mer- sion he oversees, Toledano said chandising director at Sonia Carolina Herrera is gaining market Rykiel, is to join Ricci in share in the U.S. and continuing to May as accessories direc- expand internationally. tor, a new post in charge of Paco Rabanne received an “ex- product development, WWD cellent reception” to the sophomore has learned. collection of its buzzy artistic direc- And Iliana Giannakoura tor, Julien Dossena, yielding orders is to arrive later this month as “from the best retailers.” “Evening Gown of chief ready-to-wear designer under And ’s glob- Embroidered Silk, creative director Peter Copping. al notoriety continues to grow Simonetta, 1952” She joins the Paris-based house thanks to his traveling exhibi- from “The Glamour from Céline, where she was a senior tion, “which is a fantastic of Italian Fashion.” rtw designer. Her résumé also includes success wherever it goes,” For more, see page NY GALLERY, OF STALEY-WISE GENEVIEVE NAYLOR/COURTESY stints at Givenchy and Balenciaga. Toledano said. 9 and WWD.com. Ralph Toledano, president of Puig’s “The Fashion World of Marché bags PHOTO BY fashion division, confirmed the ap- from Nina Jean Paul Gaultier: From the pointments, and noted: “It signals that Ricci. Sidewalk to the Catwalk,” we are strengthening the whole compa- which wrapped up in Neiman Marcus Group Ltd. LLC will today reveal it’s merging ny, starting with the design team.” February at the Brooklyn its store and online merchandising and planning teams into a Ricci has a nascent handbag busi- Museum, is scheduled to single organization. PAGE 1 ness, but has lately found traction with open April 9 at the Barbican its Marché, a streamlined tote style in- in London. Jumpsuits and crop tops have emerged as bestsellers in contemporary departments at major department and specialty stores for this spring. PAGE 1

True Religion Adds Anderson, Hansen to Board Charlotte Olympia, the small, self-funded British footwear and accessories brand, is using a cocktail of nostalgia, glamour and ability in the current market. They’re focused on laughs to build an international business. PAGE 7 By ARNOLD J. KARR product innovation, fit, retail presence and inter- national penetration to really ignite excitement Actress Joy Bryant and her husband, stuntman David Pope, TWO APPAREL INDUSTRY VETERANS have been around the brand again. have launched women’s wear line Basic Terrain. PAGE 7 drawn into the orbit of True Religion Apparel Inc. “And it’s really fun for me because I get to draw as it plots several new directions, including a fresh on my merchandising and product development ex- will unveil its first full-fledged collection under the approach to its retail operations. pertise,” she added. artistic direction of Nicola Formichetti in Venice on Thursday and John Anderson, who retired as president and chief Hansen is also a director of The Orvis Co. has linked with for the event. PAGE 8 executive officer of Levi Strauss & Co. in 2011, and “We’ve got the former ceo of the largest denim Marka Hansen, the former president of Gap Inc.’s company in the world and the former president of Bulgari has tapped Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, ’s former first Gap North America and Banana Republic units, have one of the biggest denim retailers in the world,” lady, to front its ad campaign for fall, following her first modeling been added to the premium denim company’s board, Conn said. “We’re extremely lucky to have them stint for the jewelry firm’s spring images. PAGE 9 expanding the number of directors to seven. working with us.”

The board already includes Andrew Rolfe, The new retail strategy under TowerBrook is chairman of True Religion and managing direc- about to be put to the test as True Religion pre- Notables from the fashion industry provide their thoughts on tor of parent TowerBrook Capital Partners L P, and pares to launch a new store concept later this year. what they would give Kim Kardashian and Kanye West as a PAGE 10 David Conn, who TowerBrook enlisted as ceo upon Ten stores are scheduled to open in 2014, expand- wedding gift. completion of its $835 million acquisition of the ing the North American count to 160, and half of company last July. them — in markets expected to include New York, Italian clothing company Light Force, which controls the Twin- The additions will reunite a number of former Chicago, Miami and its home market of Los Angeles Set Simona Barbieri diffusion label, could go for an initial public coworkers. Rolfe is the former president of Gap — will employ the new format. “It builds on what offering in 2015 or 2016. PAGE 11 Inc.’s international division, while Mary Alderete, already works for us — relatively small stores of True Religion’s chief marketing officer, is a veteran 1,400 to 1,600 square feet that are productive in American surfer Kelly Slater is separating from sponsor of both Gap and Levi’s; Rosella Giuliani, senior terms of sales per square foot and four-wall profit Quiksilver after 23 years and launching his own brand as part of vice president of merchandising, was instrumen- contribution,” he said. “There’ll of course be a a new partnership with Kering. PAGE 11 tal in Gap’s rollout of the 1969 collection, and Gary major focus on denim, but we’re looking to provide Harvey, creative director, worked both in-house a flagship experience with emphasis on omnichan- Claire’s Stores Inc. said Jim D. Fielding has resigned as and as a consultant for Levi’s. nel selling and digital storytelling.” chief executive officer. PAGE 11 Anderson, who is also a director of Harley- In 2012, True Religion’s last full year as a public Davidson and ZoomSystems, said, “The combi- company, U.S. consumer direct sales rose 12 per- ON WWD.COM nation of the brand, David and his team and the cent to $281.6 million, while overall revenues were TowerBrook group was a pretty compelling propo- up 11.3 percent to $467.3 million. Gross margin for EYE: A new exhibition, “The Glamour of Italian Fashion,” sition. The TowerBrook people are good owners — the direct segment was 70.1 percent of sales versus is opening at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. patient owners — and they know where the brand 64.1 percent for the company overall. For more, see WWD.com. needs to be taken.” While the company’s North American fleet cur- He noted that True Religion has a solid niche as rently includes 44 outlet stores, the new units, a brand in the premium market. “The premium seg- even the ones not incorporating the new design, ment is very important for the entire industry,” he will be full-price, Conn told WWD. The company FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA said. “That’s where you can innovate and introduce operates an e-commerce site, but the ceo has said @ WWD.com/social newness, and True Religion is perfectly positioned to that the firm plans to expand its efforts in the continue to do that. As long as David and the team area, as well as in digital communications and so- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. continue to bring newness to the marketplace — edgy cial media, in the future. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. design and breakthrough advertising — the pieces With market share and brand loyalty high in COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. are in place and there’s a lot of room to move.” the men’s market, he cited women’s as the “biggest VOLUME 207, NO. 66. WEDNESDAY, APRIL 2, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, Hansen told WWD, “True Religion is a great opportunity for the company. We’re doing more in and two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance brand that I’ve followed for a long time, and I think slimmer fits, softer fabrications and in midrise and Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. 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WHERE TITANS OF INDUSTRY TALK wwd.com/summitsondemand Featuring videos from each event, Fairchild Summits On-Demand offers you the opportunity to watch as the titans of industry inform, inspire, and offer valuable insight for navigating the ever-changing business landscape. 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, APRIL 2, 2014

Vans’ cotton sweatshirt, Hurley’s cotton blouse and WeSC’s cotton and

polyester ▲ Tripp NYC’s skirt. New cotton and Balance spandex sneakers. ▲ blazer; K-Way Maje’s nylon parka, and Love Leather’s leather and ponyskin skirt. Ash sneakers.

catTHE FELINE QUEEN OF THE JUNGLE’S SPOTSgirl ARE THE REIGNING PRINT OF THE SEASON.

MODEL: BARBARA/MARILYN; HAIR BY KATSUMI MATSUO AND MAKEUP BY CHEYENNE TIMPERIO, BOTH AT ARTMIX BEAUTY; FASHION ASSISTANT: ASHLEY DAVIS PHOTOS ▲ sneakers. dress. polyester Lush’s puffer polyester Johnson’s Betsey STYLED and Ash

BY

BY GEORGE KIM FRIDAY CHINSEE

▲ sneakers. Nike glove; Amato Carolina jewelry; Collection K/ller dress. viscose and cardigan acrylic and cotton Volcom’s

WWD

WEDNESDAY, APRIL

▲ 2, A headphones; skirt. cotton 2014 Fine Collection sneakers. WWD.COM polyester Converse bangles; Stüssy’s top Line’s WeSC K/ller tank and 5

6 WWD WEDNESDAY, APRIL 2, 2014 In Demand in Contemporary

{Continued from page one} the strongest gain since 2014 began. Rag & Bone overalls Isabel However, the year-on-year advance was are bestsellers at Marant’s 0.6 percent, the lowest gain since a flat Saks Fifth Avenue. plaid jacket finish in the week ended Feb. 1. is doing well Year-on-year comparisons were de- at Barneys pressed by the timing of Easter, which New York. last year fell on March 31 and this year occurs on April 20. Department and specialty store retail- ers say that contemporary sportswear is selling briskly this spring, and the jump- suit is an item that women don’t already have in their closets. Cropped tops are another spring win- ner, as well as colors and prints in coor- dinated skirt and top sets, according to a spot check of retailers, who were asked to name their number-one bestseller this spring. “The best thing to happen is jumpsuits and rompers,” said Brooke Jaffe, operating vice president, fashion director of ready- to-wear at Bloomingdale’s. She said she’s doing well with jumpsuits by Aqua, its private label brand, as well as Catherine Malandrino, Helmut Lang, Diane von Furstenberg and Parker. “Any brand that’s Cynthia Steffe’s floral made a jumpsuit for spring is doing well. jacquard dress is a strong Trina Turk We’ve reordered and [are] trying to get as seller at Lord & Taylor. cropped tops many units as possible,” said Jaffe. are selling The black jumpsuit is a replacement briskly at for the little black dress, said Jaffe. Lord & Taylor. “People will wear the rompers with san- dals, or slip-on sneakers,” she said, add- ing it can be worn as “festive” dress or as rompers to music festivals. The trend began in February in warm weather markets, and it’s been going strong ever since, she said. She also noted that denim overalls are seeing a lot of action. “One-piece dressing is tran- scending fabrications,” Jaffe said. Bloomingdale’s is also doing well with printed sets, consisting of matching skirts and tops. “They’re printed, color- An A.L.C. look from ful and sometimes midriff baring,” said Bergdorf Goodman Mason by Michelle Mason zipper detailing Jaffe, citing Clover Canyon as a standout. has been a top seller. leather miniskirt is selling well at Intermix. Colleen Sherin, senior fashion direc- tor at Saks Fifth Avenue, was also enthu- An Aqua jumpsuit A Zac Posen Diane von Furstenberg’s siastic about the jumpsuit. She said it’s is a bestseller at white maxidress halter jumpsuit has selling from the casual overall style from Bloomingdale’s. has been a top been a hit at Rag & Bone to a halter jumpsuit from seller at Scoop. Saks Fifth Avenue. Diane von Furstenberg, and a casual jumpsuit from Vince. The idea of “all in one” is a bestseller, from casual to dressy evening, incorporating both overalls and jumpsuits, added Sherin. “I called it out as a trend. It is an item that many women don’t have in their closets.” She also said it’s easy to wear and for the same reason that dresses have success, “you put it on and it’s ready to go. It’s easy to move in.” The number-two bestseller in Saks’ con- temporary departments is “the crop top.” “It’s a trend that’s all over the mar- ket,” said Sherin. She said Milly had a good one, which was a scuba-style crop top, worn with a slim skirt with a higher waistline. Another cute one came from Clover Canyon with a matched skirt. Lord & Taylor’s top seller is crop tops, especially a style from Trina Turk, according to Lauren Pisane, vice presi- dent, divisional merchandise manager of contemporary and modern sportswear at Hudson’s Bay and Lord & Taylor. “Crop tops are being paired with high- waisted bottoms,” she said. The best- selling style has been AG’s high-waisted Farrah skinny jean. “Because it has been so successful, we are continuing to buy into this trend within the premium denim category,” she said. The new summer jacket is “the bomb- spring essentials,” said April Hennig, best-selling items this spring in the con- great reaction to our swim department,” er” and Pisane predicted the silhouette vice president, divisional merchan- temporary department have been Isabel including a Missoni fringe cover-up. will gain momentum going into fall. The dise manager of 5F contemporary at Marant’s plaid jacket, jumpsuits from “Novelty knits have also been very best-selling bomber is from Blank NYC. Bergdorf Goodman. Best-selling trends Raquel Allegra and the Barneys brand strong,” she said, noting in particular Lastly, she said dresses are selling have been graphic prints, vivid color, and R13 Boy Skinny in black marble. an IRO white tank.“Knit dresses is a well, especially ladylike silhouettes. An cropped tops and light wash and dis- Intermix said its number-one best- classification that does not seem to be exclusive style from Cynthia Steffe in a tress denim. Top selling brands have seller for spring has been a Rag & Bone slowing down.” floral jacquard with collar and cuff detail been A.L.C., Rag & Bone, Jonathan Talia deep V varsity sweater and a Mason She said a Zac Posen exclusive white is a bestseller. Simkhai and Veronica Beard, along with by Michelle Mason zipper detailing mini maxi and an RVN dress have sold well. “The contemporary girl is definitely European labels such as Kenzo, Isabel leather skirt. Lace has also been a hot seller and ready to shed the winter coat and up- Marant Étoile and MSGM. Heidi Hoelzer, the head women’s mer- Hoelzer cited a Nightcap exclusive fit- date her wardrobe with some bold new According to Barneys New York, its chant at Scoop, said: “We are having a and-flare dress. WWD WEDNESDAY, APRIL 2, 2014 7 WWD.COM Charlotte Olympia Plots Expansion

high and strong” and the brand vice with shoes done in crocodile. parted on the side and with a By SAMANTHA CONTI is planning to do an exclusive Last month in Paris, the brand Forties-style wave. She said shoe for Shoe Heaven, the new introduced a collection of leather she has always loved collect- LONDON — Charlotte Olympia, footwear department at Harrods bags made in France. There are ing beautiful objects, and the small and self-funded that is set to open in August. four silhouettes in leather, black loves the idea of making British footwear and accesso- Natalie Kingham, head of alligator or leopard pony skin, them wearable. Hence the ries brand, is using a cocktail of fashion at Matches.com, said and details taken from two of Lucite clutch bags resem- nostalgia, glamour and laughs to the Charlotte Olympia customer the brand’s signatures: the Dolly bling perfume bottles; the build an international business. “loves old-school glamour,” and platform court shoe and Pandora French poodles adorn- By the end of this year, the ing boudoir slippers; company, launched by Charlotte glow-in-the-dark bones Olympia Dellal in 2008 and run embroidered onto black by Jimmy Choo and Halston vet- silk satin sandals, and ice eran Bonnie Takhar, will have cream cone heels on pink nine freestanding stores world- and mint pastel platforms. wide. The first was opened on Dellal said the goal of London’s Maddox Street in her company has always 2010. Wholesale clients include been to build a stand-alone Harrods, Neiman Marcus, On brand organically. The business A pair of Pedder in Hong Kong, Bergdorf so far has been self-financed, and Charlotte Goodman and Tsum in Moscow. she and Takhar have been build- Olympia shoes. The business is notching tri- ing it with steady hands. Sales are ple-digit sales growth and dou- divided evenly between North it’s due to open a ble-digit profit gains on the back America, the Far East and the rest store at Mall of the of collections such as Archie’s of the world, and licensed and Emirates in Dubai. The stores Girls, which had a Pop Art-y, retro joint partners include the Pedder generally range in size from feel and was based on the comic and Bluebell groups and Al Tayer. 1,000 to 1,500 square feet. books; Hollywoodland, which fea- “We’ve been embarking upon In a bid to broaden its offer tured platforms and stiletto heels a strategy of wholesale, direct further, the brand last month with celluloidlike straps or Art A visual for Charlotte Olympia’s 9 till 5 collection. retail, joint venture and distri- launched 9 till 5, an evergreen

Deco flourishes, and Overboard, OLYMPIA OF CHARLOTTE PHOTOS COURTESY bution partnership deals that is collection of classic silhouettes with platform peep-toes shaped coming to fruition,” said Takhar, that are meant to propel women like fish, or towering message-in- the Kitty slippers are among the clutch bags in Perspex. the company’s president, during through their working day straight a-bottle heels. site’s bestsellers. “We also sell The bags will retail from an interview in the West London into evening. There are stiletto, The brand is also well- the Dolly platform shoe very $1,195 to $2,995, and the key office she shares with Dellal. block and kitten heels in three known for its collection of slip- well, but the revival of the flat style is the Bogart, a structured The sprawling space is covered heights ranging from 55 mm. to per-inspired flats, especially shoe has meant that [Dellal’s] bag with a flap closure that in pink wallpaper with a spider 90 mm., or just over two inches the Kitty, with a cat’s face and glamorous slippers are very comes with a pair of gloves that web print, and a frequent guest to three-and-a-half inches. The perky ears, and the Charlotte’s much in demand,” she said. snap on to the top. Other styles is Dellal’s dog Marlon. shoes, which have clear PVC de- Web with a spider’s work Dellal, who is chief execu- include a tote and a clutch. “Everything we have done has tails, come in briefcase-inspired picked out on the vamp. tive officer and creative direc- Accessories currently account been very deliberate. We’ve picked shoeboxes and are sold with “Charlotte Olympia is in a tor, set up her businesses in for 20 percent of the business, solid retail partners, and we’re matching colored stockings. Retail league of its own in terms of 2008 after studying shoe design and Dellal said that number is building the business with them prices range from $635 to $896. making shoes that are cute and at Cordwainers in London. A set to grow to 30 percent over quite deeply,” Takhar added. Although prices for the over- funny,” said Helen David, fash- mother of three, she is married the next 18 months. One of the most success- all collection can run as high as ion director of women’s wear, to Maxim Crewe, who works in “We wanted to develop a ful selling strategies so far has $3,000 for Tailor Made shoes, accessories, fine jewelry and finance. Her parents are the strong brand aesthetic, a rec- been the creation of pop-up the bulk of Charlotte Olympia’s children’s wear at Harrods. Brazilian model Andrea Dellal ognizable silhouette from the shops — done in the season’s sales take place in the $950 to “The customer is almost anyone and the London businessman outset and build on that DNA,” theme — inside stores such as $1,150 range. — unless they are completely Guy Dellal. Her grandfather is said Dellal, who admits she is Isetan in Japan, The Landmark Dellal and Takhar said that lacking in a sense of humor.” the late Jack Dellal, the billion- afflicted with “nostalgia for a in Hong Kong and Selfridges in for the moment they are not David added that custom- aire London property tycoon fa- bygone era, a time when women London. “It’s a unique point of looking at bringing in outside ers have even begun to collect mous for his love of megadeals. wouldn’t leave the house with- view for retailers to extend to investors, nor are they working the designs. Dellal’s passions are the soul out wearing a hat and gloves.” their customer base, and cre- on moving into new product cat- “The shoes have developed of the business, which generates She puts her passion into ates excitement,” said Takhar. egories, such as ready-to-wear a cult status, and there are $40 million to $50 million in an- practice every day: Her per- The brand has two stand- or major collaborations. “This Charlotte Olympia-ites out there nual wholesale revenue, and sonal style is inspired by Rita alone store openings planned has always been about building who collect them, but don’t wear includes a variety of categories, Hayworth and the golden age of for April, in Miami’s Bal a global brand with longevity,” them,” said David, adding that such as children’s, bridal and Hollywood, and she often wears Harbour and at The Landmark said Dellal. “And the focus re- sell-throughs are “very, very Tailor Made, a made-to-order ser- red lipstick with her blonde hair in Hong Kong. In September, mains on the brand.”

from yoga to office to out depending on the shoe, the jacket and the top.” Joy Bryant Launches Basic Terrain Collection The pant comes in cropped and long versions in six washes, all made from the pricy canvas hammock online. “I said, ‘I line. If anything, I wanted to do luggage or same lightweight cotton denim. There By MARCY MEDINA can make that.’ So I went down to Target snowboards. We dwell in cities, but we love are just two sizes, 1 and 2, which fit and bought a $60 Hello Kitty Singer sew- to travel, snowboard, surf, skateboard. So a range of traditional sizes because LOS ANGELES — Lest you think Basic ing machine,” he said. we thought: Let’s start a company where of the adjustability of the wrap Terrain, a new women’s wear line from For his next project, a pair of snow we can actually do that. We either suc- waist. Wholesale prices range from actress Joy Bryant and her husband, pants, Bryant bought him a better sew- ceed or we fail, but either way we can $67.50 to $84, and the company has stuntman David Pope, is a vanity project, ing machine. “When she put on the first create the things we want.” already met with retailers such as consider this: The couple are funding the sample, she was like, ‘Oh, you really do Through her friend Kelly Cole, Neiman Marcus, Intermix, Ron line themselves, and until recently, their know how to sew.’ Then she walked to Bryant met Sean Hornbeak, Herman and Curve. dining room doubled as their office and her closet and came back with 20 pieces the owner of Denim Revival, The fall collection will in- design studio. The pre-fall capsule collec- and said, ‘Can you make any of these?’” who also launched J Brand and corporate wool, fleece, leather tion consists of low-slung, wrap-front cot- One of the items was a pair of Thai Current/Elliott into the men’s and perhaps even techno fab- ton pants in two lengths and six washes. fisherman pants Bryant had bought dur- business. Hornbeak now acts as rics, but not the expected lin- Bryant, a former model, is no stranger ing a trip to Cambodia. Pope reworked design director and production ens and silks. For spring, they to fashion, but her utilitarian husband is them in denim from Jo-Ann Fabrics. manager. “It’s only three of us. will introduce a skirt and a the one with the sewing skills. “My mom “From the first day she wore them out in We’re still working in David’s top, with the goal of eventually taught me how to sew when I was around public,” he said, “strangers were like, ‘Oh man cave and trying to find an expanding into a full unisex 10, and I took home economics in eighth my God, where did you get those?’” assistant,” said Bryant. sportswear and performance grade,” said Pope, 42. “By the time I fin- “He made himself some shirts, and While they have already de- gear line. ished middle school, I had made several the same thing would happen to him,” signed several core silhouettes “We know where we are pairs of shorts.” said Bryant. “The combination of re- that they plan to add in gradual- going, we’ll just take our time He said fashion was never his inter- sponses was our ‘aha’ moment.” ly, the fisherman-inspired wrap getting there,” said Bryant. est; before meeting his wife, he bought Bryant said the line is based on their pants, which don’t have hard- As for using her fame to most of his clothes at REI. “Me being love of outdoor adventure and comfort- ware or zippers, will be the help launch the line, she said, comfortable in this space is something able, functional clothing. staple. “I think that it’s more “It’s great if because of my new. For me, getting dressed is like, “Our idol brands are Patagonia, comfortable and chic than a exposure and my work, that ‘What goes with a compass and an ax?’” Capital and Best Made Co. If you took skinny jean, and to see that brings attention to it, because “He’s the function and I’m the fash- those three and put them in a blender, someone who is a size 4 and we are making things and we ion. Together it’s checks and balances,” that’s Basic Terrain,” said Bryant, who someone who is a size 12 can want people to buy them. But I said Bryant, 39. looks to military and technical garb for wear the same pant and both A look SARDELLA DONATO never looked at this like a ce- Pope took up a needle and thread design inspiration. look awesome is great,” from Basic lebrity line. I think the prod- Terrain.

again two years ago when Bryant found a “I never thought I’d have a clothing Bryant said. “They can go PHOTO BY uct speaks for itself.” 8 WWD wednesday, april 2, 2014

operational aspects of the stores.” “Nothing was broken,” Koryl said. “We Neiman’s Merges Store, Online Groups are trying to get rid of the internal chan- nel differences and get focused on the {Continued from page one} “In terms of our time frame, it works our customers are moving between the customer. The true goal is to have a mem- last year exceeded $1 billion in sales. out perfectly. We are getting the mer- stores and the Web site. They [browse] orable, consistent and seamless experi- Neiman’s officials were effusive about chandise organization to come together at home online and come into the stores ence,” extending from the marketing and the reorganization. Katz called it “a very as one brand. The whole team will be to look at merchandise. Maybe they buy the merchandising to the promotional ca- complex change,” for several reasons. working on NMG One as it gets rolled out in the store, maybe they go home and dence and the information provided con- “It starts with the physical locations over the next few years,” Katz said. consummate the transaction on the Web sumers as they research what they want to — Neiman Marcus online and Neiman Among other omni initiatives, Neiman’s site. Sometimes they start in the stores buy, Koryl said. Marcus stores merchandising organi- has been testing ship-to-store in a few lo- looking at merchandise, look at it again According to the Neiman’s executives, zations are in two separate locations. cations, which the ceo said has yielded online and use the Web site for research, their best customers are those who shop We have to bring them together” to one “great results” and has led to incremental for ideas, for convenience.” multiple channels. They said that the downtown Dallas facility, she said. spending by customers picking up their on- Customers, Gold said, want access to reorganization will not result in any job “In many cases buyers will be report- line orders in the stores and then shopping “our entire network of inventory wher- losses, and that Bergdorf Goodman is un- ing to someone different than before, and more. “After the new year, ever it resides, in stores affected, except that Joshua Schulman, because the systems are not yet speaking we’ll roll it out to all 41 [full- or a warehouse, and want president of Bergdorf ’s, will now report to each other, the divisional merchandise line] stores,” Katz said. to be able to return it how- to Katz, instead of to Gold. managers and general merchandise man- In addition, all 4,500 ever it suits them. The way Among those reporting to Gold are agers have to learn two systems, even sales associates have our customer shops today, Gerald Barnes, executive vice presi- though in relatively short time, there will iPhones to locate products largely because of the ad- dent, gmm for designer sportswear, cou- be one system,” Katz said. and help customers shop; vent of mobile devices, ture and furs. Barnes will also serve as “Then there’s just understanding how iPads are being distributed smartphones, iPhones and, Neiman Marcus online strategy direc- you buy online versus how you buy for to some departments and even more importantly, tab- tor. The four senior vice presidents and stores. Yo u buy somewhat differently. One are currently most prevalent lets, they want to be able to gmm’s also report to Gold. [product] has to look great in a photograph; in shoes and handbags, and experience our brand in a Reporting to Koryl will be Neva Hall, the other has to look great in a store.” a Neiman Marcus app was very seamless manner.” executive vice president, Neiman Marcus Katz said the company is shooting to launched a few weeks ago. Before, “whenever you Stores, and Lindy Rawlinson, senior vice make the inventory the same online and in Also, the company allows John wanted to do something, president, e-commerce. Gold and Koryl stores, at a much higher percentage than customers to return items by Koryl from an operational or continue to report to Katz. it is today, though it won’t ever be 100 per- mail or by dropping them off buying or marketing stand- The reorganization comes amid re- cent the same, she predicted. With home at a store, and Neiman’s last point, when you have totally ports that NMG is in talks with Hudson furnishings, for example, “We have a big year began offering free shipping. different teams it became very compli- Yards, a huge project being developed on business online. Those kinds of categories Neiman’s was an early adopter of cated,” Gold added. “We have been very Manhattan’s West Side, to open a Neiman’s we don’t have space for in the stores.” e-commerce, becoming the first major busy redesigning teams of people so we store on the site. Neiman’s executives On the technology front, NMG has luxury retailer to launch it in 1999. are reorganizing functions so we can bet- would not comment on the possibility, started installing NMG One, a new mer- Originally, the store merchants did the ter service our clients, so instead of hav- first reported by the New York Post. Retail chandising system enabling the locating buying for the Internet. However, “for ing two separate merchandising teams, sources said it would be risky for Neiman’s and sharing of inventory across channels the last decade, the merchants that buy we are going to have an integrated mer- to locate on the West Side considering the to improve turn and better meet cus- for the stores have not been responsible chandising team.” Three years ago, the area is barren of retailing and would take tomer demand. It’s a three- to four-year for either the catalogues or, more impor- separate marketing teams for stores and years to gel into an area drawing afflu- process to implement the system, with tantly, the e-commerce site,” Gold said. direct were integrated into one. ent shoppers, if ever. There are also com- size optimization one of the first pieces “So now here we are in 2014 and the Gold also discussed the significance plications that relate to NMG’s Bergdorf to get installed. Creating a shared inven- world has completely changed in terms of Koryl’s new job. “In the way we want Goodman division on Fifth Avenue, which tory system is critical to becoming an om- of how our customers shop, the scale of to think about seamless 360-degree mer- pays rent to the Goodman family, the land- nichannel retailer. our e-commerce business and the way chandising, we want to do the same from lord. Decades ago, when the Goodman a sales and service standpoint. We want family sold BG to Neiman’s, a confiden- our selling organization to think about tial agreement to not open a Neiman’s UNITED STATES BANKRUPTCY COURT b. any person or entity whose claim is listed in the Debtors’ Schedules of how they service the customer between in Manhattan was established, sources DISTRICT OF NEW JERSEY Assets and Liabilities and/or Schedules of Executory Contracts and Unexpired In re: Dots, LLC, et al., 1 Chapter 11 • Case No. 14-11016 (DHS) Leases (collectively, the “Schedules”), provided that (i) the claim is not the store inventory and online inventory. said. It could not be learned whether the Debtors. (Jointly Administered) scheduled as “disputed,” “contingent” or “unliquidated,” (ii) such claimant We want to break down those barriers as agreement is still valid or if the Goodmans NOTICE OF DEADLINES FOR FILING PROOFS OF CLAIM does not disagree with the amount or classifcation of the claim as set forth on the Schedules, and (iii) such claimant does not dispute that the claim is well. John is going to lead the effort. John would have to be further compensated if TO: ALL CREDITORS AND OTHER PARTIES IN INTEREST WITH CLAIMS an obligation of the specifc Debtor against which the claim is listed on the AGAINST DOTS, LLC, IPC/DOTS LLC, AND/OR DOTS GIfT LLC (THE Schedules; will have more of the technical aspects of Neiman’s opened in Manhattan, potential- “DEBTORS”) c. any holder of a claim that heretofore has been allowed by order of the e-commerce and will have the sales and ly cannibalizing BG. The United States Bankruptcy Court for the District of New Jersey (the Court; “Bankruptcy Court”) entered an Order on March 26, 2014 establishing (i) d. any person or entity whose claim has been paid in full by the Debtors; May 27, 2014 at 5:00 p.m. (prevailing Eastern time) (the “General Bar e. any holder of a claim for which specifc deadlines to fle a proof of claim Date”) as the last date for each person or entity (including individuals, part- have previously been fxed by the Court; nerships, corporations, joint ventures, and trusts, but excluding governmen- f. professionals retained by the Debtors or the Committee pursuant to tal units) to fle a proof of claim against the Debtors listed above, including orders of this Court, including the Debtors’ claims agent, who assert adminis- for claims arising under section 503(b)(9) of the Bankruptcy Code and claims trative claims for payment of fees and expenses subject to the Court’s approval Diesel to Boost Show With Twitter by, among others, holders of Dots gift cards and store credits, and (ii) July pursuant to sections 330, 331(a) and 503(b) of the Bankruptcy Code; or 21, 2014 at 5:00 p.m. (prevailing Eastern time) (the “Governmental Bar g. any entity that asserts an administrative expense claim against the will be an amazing experience, less of a Date”) as the last date for governmental units, to fle a proof of claim against Debtors pursuant to sections 503(b)(1) through (8) of the Bankruptcy Code. the Debtors listed above (each a “Bar Date” and collectively the “Bar Dates”). If you are a holder of an equity interest in the Debtors, you need not fle a By LUISA ZARGANI fashion show and more of an event.” The Bar Dates and the procedures set forth below for fling proofs of claim proof of interest with respect to the ownership of such equity interest at this apply to all claims against the Debtors that arose prior to January 20, 2014, time. However, if you assert a claim against the Debtors, including a claim About 300 guests are expected to attend the date on which the Debtors commenced their cases under chapter 11 of relating to such equity interest or the purchase or sale of such interest, a proof BREGANZE, Italy — Diesel will unveil and Diesel will present designs for fall. the United States Bankruptcy Code (the “Petition Date”), except for those of such claim must be fled on or prior to the applicable Bar Date pursuant to holders of the claims listed in Section 4 below that are specifcally excluded procedures set forth in this Notice. its first full-fledged collection under the Guest tweeters for the event will in- from the Bar Date fling requirement. This Notice is being sent to many persons and entities that have had some artistic direction of Nicola Formichetti clude Vogue Italia’s Franca Sozzani, 1. WHO MUST FILE A PROOF OF CLAIM. You MUST fle a proof of claim to relationship with or have done business with the Debtors but may not have vote on a Chapter 11 plan fled by the Debtors or to share in distributions from an unpaid claim against the Debtors. The fact that you have received this in Venice on Thursday — exactly a year American rapper and the Debtors’ bankruptcy estates if you have a claim that arose prior to the Notice does not mean that you have a claim or that the Debtors or the after he joined the Italian brand — and bloggers Suzie Bubble and Chiara Petition Date that is not one of the types of claim described in Section 4 below. Court believe that you have a claim against the Debtors. Claims based on acts or omissions of the Debtors that occurred before the 5. EXECUTORY CONTRACTS AND UNEXPIRED LEASES. If you have a has linked with Twitter for the event. Ferragni, and they also will make them- Petition Date must be fled on or prior to the General Bar Date or Governmental claim arising out of the rejection of an executory contract or unexpired lease, “We want to offer an experience peo- selves available for live question-and- Bar Date (as applicable), even if such claims are not now fxed, liquidated or you must fle a proof of claim by the later of (i) the General Bar Date, or (ii) 4:00 certain or did not mature or become fxed, liquidated or certain before the p.m. (prevailing Eastern time) on the date that is thirty (30) days after entry of ple can remember and we are looking answer sessions the day of the event. Petition Date. an order approving the rejection of an executory contract or unexpired lease, at creating an event outside the estab- This will allow Twitter users to have an Under section 101(5) of the Bankruptcy Code and as used in this Notice, or (iii) such other date a the Court may fx. the word “claim” means: (a) a right to payment, whether or not such right is 6. CONSEQUENCES OF FAILURE TO FILE A PROOF OF CLAIM BY THE lished fashion weeks in Paris, Milan or interactive experience through “friends reduced to judgment, liquidated, unliquidated, fxed, contingent, matured, BAR DATE. ANY HOLDER OF A CLAIM THAT IS NOT EXCEPTED FROM New York — which are already chock- and family ambassadors. It’s a voice from unmatured, disputed, undisputed, legal, equitable, secured, or unsecured; or THE REQUIREMENTS OF THIS ORDER, AS SET FORTH IN SECTION 4 (b) a right to an equitable remedy for breach of performance if such breach ABOVE, AND THAT FAILS TO TIMELY FILE A PROOF OF CLAIM IN THE full of shows,” said Formichetti dur- Venice, and it will be like looking at the gives rise to a right to payment, whether or not such right to an equitable rem- APPROPRIATE FORM WILL BE BARRED FROM ASSERTING SUCH CLAIM edy is reduced to judgment, fxed, contingent, matured, unmatured, disputed, AGAINST THE DEBTORS AND THEIR CHAPTER 11 ESTATES, FROM VOTING ing an interview at the headquarters event through someone else’s point of undisputed, secured or unsecured. ON ANY PLAN OF REORGANIZATION FILED IN THESE CASES, AND FROM of Diesel’s parent company, OTB, here, view,” said Formichetti. “It’s personal 2. WHAT TO FILE. Your fled proof of claim must conform substantially to PARTICIPATING IN ANY DISTRIBUTION IN THE DEBTORS’ CASES ON the Proof of Claim form enclosed with this Notice. The Proof of Claim form ACCOUNT OF SUCH CLAIM. about an hour’s drive from Venice. and almost like sending a text message.” enclosed herewith may be copied and additional copies may be obtained free 7. THE DEBTORS’ SCHEDULES AND ACCESS THERETO. You may be “We like to create our own rules,” he Formichetti, who was previously cre- of charge by contacting the undersigned. listed as the holder of a claim against the Debtors in the Debtors’ Schedules. If All Proof of Claim forms must be signed by the claimant or, if the claimant you rely on the Debtors’ Schedules, it is your responsibility to determine that said, underscoring how Venice is close ative director at and is not an individual, by an authorized agent of the claimant. It must be written the claim is accurately listed in the Schedules. to the brand’s heritage. ’s stylist and her de facto fash- in English, be denominated in United States currency, and indicate the Debtor As set forth above, if you agree with the nature, amount and status of your against which you are asserting a claim (if you are asserting a claim against claim as listed in the Debtors’ Schedules, and if you do not dispute that your “Yes, this show is who we are, we are ion director, relied on Tumblr and word more than one Debtor, a separate proof of claim must be fled with respect to claim is only against the Debtor specifed in the Schedules, and if your claim bringing the brand back home,” echoed of mouth to cast the subjects of his first each Debtor). You should attach to your completed proof of claim any docu- is not described as “disputed,” “contingent,” or “unliquidated,” you need not ments on which the claim is based (if voluminous, attach a summary), includ- fle a proof of claim. Otherwise, or if you decide to fle a proof of claim, you , founder of OTB and Diesel Diesel ad campaign last summer — sever- ing proof of delivery within 20 days before the Petition Date in the case of a must do so before the Bar Date in accordance with the procedures set forth cofounder. Over the past few years, he al selected from the social-network pool. claim under 503(b)(9) of the Bankruptcy Code, or an explanation as to why the in this Notice. documents are not available. Copies of the Debtors’ Schedules are available at www.donlinrecano.com/ has increasingly focused on growing “This event in Venice is intimate, but 3. WHEN AND WHERE TO FILE PROOFS OF CLAIM. Except as provided dots, a publically available website maintained by the Claims and Noticing for herein, all proofs of claim (including claims arising pursuant to 11 U.S.C. § Agent. Copies of the Schedules may also be examined between the hours of OTB, a fashion conglomerate that also it’s not about being exclusive. On the con- 503(b)(9); but not including claims asserted by governmental units) must be 9:00 a.m. and 4:30 p.m., Monday through friday at the Offce of the Clerk of comprises Maison Martin Margiela, trary, while we are not live-streaming it, we fled so as to be received on or before the General Bar Date. the Bankruptcy Court, 50 Walnut Street, Newark, New Jersey 07102. Copies Except as provided herein, all proofs of claim to be fled by governmental of the Debtors’ Schedules may also be obtained by written request to Debtors’ Viktor & Rolf, Marni and production want to do something different and more units must be fled so as to be received on or before the Governmental Bar counsel at the address and telephone number set forth below. arm Staff International, which manu- contemporary and are supporting Twitter,” Date. 8. RESERVATION OF RIGHTS. The Debtors reserve their rights to object to Proofs of Claim must be fled by mailing or delivering the original proof of any proof of claim, whether fled or scheduled, on any grounds. The Debtors factures and distributes brands includ- explained Formichetti, underscoring that claim by frst class U.S. mail or by hand or overnight courier to the Debtors’ reserve their rights to dispute or to assert offsets or defenses to any claim ing DSquared2, Just Cavalli, Vivienne he wants to bring a “human aspect” to so- Claims and Noticing Agent at the address provided below: refected on the Schedules or any amendments thereto, as to amount, liabil- By U.S. Mail: Donlin, Recano & Company, Inc., Re: Dots, LLC, et al., ity, classifcation or otherwise, and to subsequently designate any claim dis- Westwood and . cial networking. “I love the digital world, P.O. Box 2008, Murray Hill Station, New York, New York 10156 puted, contingent, unliquidated or undetermined. As a result, Rosso believes that but the human touch is as important; I see By Express Delivery, Hand Delivery or Other Courier: A holder of a possible claim against the Debtors should consult an Donlin, Recano & Company, Inc., Re: Dots, LLC, et al., attorney regarding any matters not covered by this notice, such as “Diesel’s DNA was recently lost, but it as a tool to spread love,” he continued. 419 Park Avenue South, Suite 1206, New York, New York 10016 whether the holder should fle a proof of claim. Nicola went back to our archives and Wi-Fi Twitter Mirrors will be set up Proofs of claim will be deemed fled only when actually received by Dated: March 26, 2014 s/ Kenneth A. Rosen the Claims and Noticing Agent on or before the Bar Date. Proofs of claim LOWENSTEIN SANDLER LLP, Kenneth A. Rosen, Esq., Bruce Buechler, Esq., unearthed it — its alternative spirit to and available to all guests to create self- may not be delivered by facsimile, telecopy or electronic mail transmis- Gerald C. Bender, Esq., Wojciech f. Jung, Esq., Shirley Dai, Esq., 65 Livingston luxury and rebellious attitude. I need ies. Also, it is understood Twitter plans sion. Avenue, Roseland, New Jersey 07068, (973) 597-2500 (Telephone), (973) 4. WHO NEED NOT FILE A PROOF OF CLAIM. The following persons and 597-2400 (facsimile), Counsel to the Debtors and Debtors-in-Possession him to inject modernity to the brand. to experiment with new tools to apply to entities need not fle a proof of claim on or prior to the Bar Date: 1 Diesel was more Renzo Rosso, now it’s the fashion world. a. Any person or entity that has already fled a proof of claim in this case The Debtors in these chapter 11 cases are Dots, LLC, IPC/Dots LLC, and with the Clerk of the Court or the Debtors’ Claims and Noticing Agent substan- Dots Gift LLC. The last four digits of Dots, LLC’s and IPC/Dots LLC’s tax identi- going to be more Nicola Formichetti for Diesel will also post a video of the tially similar to Offcial form No. 10; fcation numbers are (3957) and (8282), respectively. the future of the brand. This in Venice show on diesel.com the following day.

w02a008a.indd 8 4/1/14 7:09 PM 04012014191010 WWD WEDNESDAY, APRIL 2, 2014 9 WWD.COM V&A Puts Italy in Spotlight A Gianfranco Ferré ad from 1991. factories were so skilled at making it,” By SAMANTHA CONTI said Sonnet Stanfill, curator of 20th cen- tury and contemporary fashion at the LONDON — The Italians have long been V&A. Indeed, the show, which runs from lovers of “lo stile Inglese,” or English sar- Saturday to July 27 and is sponsored by torial style, with its tweeds, herringbone Bulgari, highlights the starring role that fabrics and pops of silk and print. The textiles and manufacturing played in the English are returning the compliment industry’s swift expansion. this week with “The Glamour of Italian “Knitwear grew out of undergarment Fashion 1945-2014,” a show dedicated to manufacturing, so it was never bulky, postwar Italian style at the Victoria and and there are so many examples of Albert Museum. Italian designers pushing for the right The tightly edited show — there are effect in the cut and construction of the only 100 pieces of men’s and women’s textiles,” said Stanfill. fashion on display — is an earnest and In one room, a digital wall map of enthusiastic tale of the rapid journey Italy shows the regions that have become A women’s Italy made from postwar ruin to modern- world famous for their materials: Como prosperità knitted day . The show begins with a for silk; Biella for wool, and Tuscany for ensemble FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE large, black-and-white image of Florence leather, to name a few. from WWD.com/eye. in 1946, all rubble and crumbling build- Franca Sozzani, the editor in chief of Missoni, ings, and ends with a peacock’s display Italian Vogue who cohosted the dinner 1972. of opulence including the liquid white at the V&A on Tuesday night to mark the gown and showy gold dragon brooch from opening, said Italy was reborn after the Tom Ford’s fall 2004 Gucci collection, war thanks to entrepreneurial clans such Miroslava Duma. The evening brought the end, with a lineup of some of the greatest and Roberto Capucci’s rippling fuchsia as the Maramotti family, the founders back Italian memories for everyone. hits from the past four decades, a time when and green silk evening dress. of Max Mara, and the Della Valles, who “Boy, she had an appetite for jew- Italian designers became more famous than In between there’s jewelry, fur, cash- started Tod’s. “It was a way to survive in elry — I can tell you that,” said Bulgari the people they dressed, said Stanfill. mere, glitter and Pucci prints galore. a certain kind of area where there was of Elizabeth Taylor, whom he said would The displays range from Miuccia On display are some of the Bulgari nothing,” said Sozzani. “Soon, those dis- drive her car straight into the private Prada’s shooting flame heels from gems that Richard Burton used to woo tricts became specialized…while Roma courtyard of the Bulgari store in spring 2012 and Tod’s driving shoes, Elizabeth Taylor while the two were film- was all about the small boutiques, tailor- to avoid the paparazzi. “The magic would to a dress from the Valentino Couture ing “Cleopatra” in Rome the early Sixties. ing and dressmaking.” begin when she was alone in a [private] Wunderkammer collection and a floor- There’s also a display dedicated to the Guests at the cocktail party and dinner wood-paneled room with Richard Burton, length number from Fausto Puglisi to seminal Sala Bianca fashion shows at to kick off the opening on Tuesday night and she started choosing the jewelry.” ’s slouchy suits. Palazzo Pitti in Florence; a nod to men’s included Tom Ford, Richard Buckley, McGovern also recalled her salad days About 40 percent of the items have tailoring, and myriad examples of Italy’s Christopher Kane, Manolo Blahnik, in Rome. “My first adult trip to Rome was been loaned from more than 30 archives, technical prowess — from industrially pro- Valentino, Giancarlo Giammetti, Osman when I went there to film ‘Once Upon a institutions and collectors, including duced knitwear to handcrafted Fendi furs. Yousefzada, Alessandro Dell’Acqua, Time in America.’ I loved it — it burst open the Pucci Foundation, Palazzo Pitti, the “Italy was at the forefront of convinc- Pierpaolo Piccioli, Maria Grazia Chiuri, my world,” said McGovern, whose latest University of Parma and the archive of ing the elite consumer to buy ready-to- Anna Zegna, Laudomia Pucci, Nicola CD, “Still Waiting,” with her band Sadie Giovanni Battista Giorgini. wear fashion, mostly because the Italian Bulgari, Elizabeth McGovern and and the Hotheads has just been released. A buying agent, Giorgini was the Eva Cavalli said she’s proud granddaddy of Italy’s runway shows: In Rita Ora Elisa Sednaoui Angela and to be Italian, even though she the early Fifties, he was instrumental in Rosita Missoni is Austrian. “The Italians are getting Italian designs in front of buyers happy, they’re positive, they from stores including Bergdorf Goodman,

have the sun and they don’t I. Magnin and B. Altman and in interna- take themselves too seriously. tional publications. JENKINS Things are not good in Italy Giorgini started showcasing the TIM right now, but the Italians are Italian collections from his home in BY still happy,” she said. Florence, and later moved them to the Stanfill said she ap- Sala Bianca at Palazzo Pitti in Florence. OTHERS proached the show from a The gowns were one-third of the price ALL very V&A angle. “We like to of those in Paris and the buyers were talk about process, and give impressed by the Italians’ sense of color a sense of the hand and the and richness of textiles, said Stanfill, BARBIERI; maker,” she said, adding that who has re-created the early days of the

PAOLO people who are looking for Sala Bianca at the start of the show. an encyclopedic review of It’s clearly had an impact. British GIAN

BY Italy’s fashion houses will Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman, an- have gone to the wrong place. other cohost of the launch event, said she

FERRÉ “What we focused on are was struck by the early “wonderful eve- points of influence.” ning dresses that you’d still want to wear The glamour of the show’s today…those kind of gala gowns really GIANFRANCO LONDON; MUSEUM, VICTORIAOF ALBERT AND MISSONICOURTESY PHOTO title shines through chiefly at haven’t changed that much.”

and contemporary jewelry DNA,” will now include four series, titled newspaper’s luxury magazine How to Jean-Christophe Babin, chief executive “Beauty Basics,” “Cassandra,” “Beauty Spend It. The Italian edition, which MEMO PAD officer of the company, told WWD. Evolution” and “Hair Tyrant.” “Beauty will launch in September, marks How to “The new campaign is a major Basics” is a 10-episode instructional Spend It’s 20th anniversary. According evolution of [the] current [one] channel, while “Cassandra” is a to the F T, the edition, which will launch CARLA RE-UPS: Carla Bruni-Sarkozy is doing conveying more modernity, luxury 12-episode show in which online star with five issues in 2014 and expand to 13 an encore for Bulgari. The Rome-based and [the] extraordinary masterpieces’ Cassandra Bankson makes home visits to in 2015, will feature content translated jewelry firm has tapped France’s former celebration. Carla and Terry did a great viewers and gives them a makeover. from English, as well as content first lady to front its ad campaign for job to elevate high jewelry to a new “Beauty Evolution” takes a similar originated in Italy. fall, after her first modeling stint for level of desirability and modernity.” theme of makeovers and, over the course The expansion is part of the FT’s Bulgari’s spring images. Bruni-Sarkozy The campaign is due to roll out of 16 episodes, takes a look at the style continued focus on luxury, a lucrative starting in June. — LUISA ZARGANI evolution of celebrities in a humorous way. category for advertising, according “Hair Tyrant,” a 32-episode series, shows to Ben Hughes, the newspaper’s global CAMERA READY: Allure is ready for its the opinionated VIP stylist Ashley Javier commercial director and deputy chief close-up. The beauty magazine will “transforming” real women. executive officer. “The luxury sector today become the latest Condé Nast Although the channel boasts some has outperformed corporate finance in title to get its own YouTube channel, big personalities — Javier especially — terms of [ad revenue] growth,” he said. a project helmed by Condé Nast Allure editor in chief Linda Wells said she’s “Corporate finance used to be one the Entertainment. aware of the “dizzying” volume of beauty biggest drivers of our revenue, but now If video sounds familiar for Allure, videos and vlogs already on YouTube. luxury is growing more rapidly.” it’s because it is — the publication “There are so many people who are While Hughes said he’s seen more already runs a variety of them on its making videos from their bedrooms, but players, such as T: Web site, including backstage videos we can give a more authoritative look,” Style Magazine and The Wall Street during fashion week, beauty blogger said Wells. “People like to relate to the Journal’s WSJ. magazine, jump into the ones and instructional makeup clips. girl in her bedroom, but we can say we’re space, he hasn’t seen a decline in either Carla Bruni-Sarkozy for Bulgari. Although the YouTube channel is Allure, we have a more definitive look and readers or ad dollars for How to Spend It. a video-centric launch, Allure said a lot of access.” — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD One thing the FT has experienced was photographed in Rome in February, shoppable video might not be too far recently is the departure of its fashion one again by , wearing the behind, although it stressed it is too early ITALY GETS HOW TO SPEND IT: The Financial editor, Vanessa Friedman, who played a large brand’s jewelry, watches and accessories. to talk timelines. Times has inked a new partnership with role in its luxury coverage. Friedman, who “Never before did an ad campaign The YouTube channel is an updated newspaper publisher Il Sole 24 Ore to decamped last month for The New York glorify so well Bulgari’s magnificent take on Allure’s content, which produce an Italian edition of the British Times, has yet to be replaced. — A.S. 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, APRIL 2, 2014

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Bound 2 Wed WWD.com/eye.

The cover of Vogue’s April issue featuring Kim Kardashian and Kanye West — the reality star va-va-voom in a custom Lanvin wedding gown, her fiancé’s arms wrapped around her Botticelli-esqe hips — confirmed the inevitable: This wedding will be the pop culture zenith of the summer. The nuptial-themed cover, staged much like a cake topper, is just the beginning of the media hoopla surrounding the big day. While one can only imagine what the actual event will look like — Fire breathers? A marching band? Fighter jets? — it was recently revealed that it will be a relatively intimate affair of less than

200 of their closest and dearest. Invitations have yet to be mailed out, but it’s not ▼ “Everyone thought they would too early to start thinking of the perfect get married in Versailles. Now Versailles has them forever. This wedding gift. WWD asked notables: is not a Jeff Koons, it’s a Stéphane What would they get the couple that, Rolland. Kim and Kanye are such an emblematic couple, I thought quite literally, has everything? “‘Balloon Venus’ the only way to immortalized their

by Jeff Koons would union would be to sculpt them in ▼ “Aren’t they moving be a perfect gift in gold. But it has to be 18k, my dear, to Paris? I’d get them terms of shape. I own otherwise there is no point.” Rosetta Stone for French.” “For the couple that has everything, two given by Bernard — STÉPHANE ROLLAND — EMILY WEISS I’d get them a brand new couch. I Arnault, but I will heard in Kanye’s remix to ‘Drunk in certainly never ever Love’ that he recently ruined his.” give mine.” — REBECCA MINKOFF — “I would get them a matching pair of Kappa tracksuits. I don’t believe they [have] worn matching outfits yet and I believe they

need to take a leaf GABRIELLE REVERE/GETTY IMAGES out of Posh and Becks’ books.” — CHELSEA LEYLAND

DANIEL STOCKMAN; ELBAZ BY ▼ “A vintage Leica camera and tripod.” — REECE SOLOMON

“I would give them all my respect, ▼ friendship and love, something which happens quite rarely. I consider Kim an independent woman — just the way I like women. He is awesome. I UNLISTED IMAGES/CORBIS; DOONAN BY followed him from Los Angeles to Las Vegas to see one of his shows.” ▼ “I would gift them a copy of — ROBERTO CAVALLI Emily Post’s ‘Etiquette’ book. Kim will need to know how to work a receiving line should they ever find themselves in Buckingham Palace.” BY MINKOFF EICHNER; STEVE — ERIN FETHERSTON

“I would make a whole collection of beautiful summer dresses for North, because I know how much MARGIELAAND BY they love her, how much she means to them and how precious she is. So if I wanted to make them happy, I would do that.” ▼ — ALBER ELBAZ

“Kim is a fan GETTY KARDASHIAN,IMAGES; LAW of our Kiki’s Derriere Vase, so I think I’d give her my Georgia Vase, which is covered in breasts. Nothing says newlyweds PHOTO BY BIKE GREENE; JENNA like a little T&A.” — JONATHAN

▼ “Kim and Kanye need a massive Goyard ADLER

▼ “We would offer Kim and Kanye, the couple trunk emblazoned with a massive ‘K + K’. who has everything, anonymity. One of the They can stash it at the end of the bed and Maison’s most treasured codes.” fill it with sassy boudoir accoutrements.” — MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA — SIMON DOONAN BY LEYLANDILLUSTRATION PHOTO WWD WEDNESDAY, APRIL 2, 2014 11 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS Kering Partners With Kelly Slater to Quiksilver, which signed him to a 100 By JOELLE DIDERICH percent sponsorship deal in 1990. “There aren’t enough pages or words INTO THE LIGHT: Another Italian fashion The contributing PARIS — American professional surfer to express my heartfelt thanks and ap- company is eyeing the stock exchange. editor will be on the FIT campus at Kelly Slater is separating from sponsor preciation for the experiences that have Marco De Benedetti, managing director the May 1 event, which Calvin Klein Quiksilver after 23 years and launching come from this relationship we’ve shared and head of The Carlyle Group’s will sponsor. Chung, who is Glamour his own brand as part of a new partner- together. So it is with a heavy heart and a Italian buyout team, said Monday that Italia’s current cover girl, spoke of ship with Kering. lifetime of positive memories that I move Italian clothing company Light Force, her respect for emerging designers. Kering confirmed the partnership in a new chapter of my life,” he wrote. which controls the Twin-Set Simona “It takes a lot of guts to have your with Slater, adding that it would be “a “For years I’ve dreamt of developing a Barbieri diffusion label, could go for hard work put on display for others multilayered relationship” with Kering brand that combines my love of clean liv- an initial public offering between the to critique and judge. The fashion “supporting Slater in the launch and the ing, responsibility and style. The inspira- end of 2015 and the first half of 2016. industry can be a rude awakening for development of his own apparel brand, tion for this brand comes from the people The Carlyle Group acquired a 70 new designers, and FIT offers these acting as an operational partner provid- and cultures I encounter in my constant percent majority stake in Light Force students an amazing opportunity to get ing assistance where possible in areas global travels, and this is my opportunity in July 2012. a glimpse of what they can expect in like sourcing, logistics, e-commerce, etc.” to build something the way I have always Established in Capri by Tiziano the ‘real world,’” she said. Slater would become an ambassador for wanted to,” he added. Sgarbi and Simona Barbieri, who continue — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Kering and take part in initiatives across Slater did not provide any additional to manage the firm, the company some of the group’s brands, namely in rela- details about the partnership with Kering. closed 2013 with sales up 20 percent IN THE FRAME: Brian Phillips, president tion to sustainability, it added. A spokeswom- “They share my values and have the abil- compared with the previous year, and owner of Black Frame public an for the group declined to say whether ity to support me in all of my endeavors. when Light Force posted revenues relations, has launched Framework, a Kering would take a stake in Slater’s brand. I look forward to exploring all of the new of 140 million euros, or about $185 new division dedicated to art direction, Slater, 42, earlier took to his opportunities this partnership will pro- million at average exchange. branding and video page to reveal the news. He paid tribute vide,” he said. — ALESSANDRA TURRA FOR MORE production. Operated out SCOOPS, SEE of Black Frame’s New York HEADING TO MARKET: Bagir office, Framework offers a Group, the Israel-based WWD.com. roster of services separate Fielding Resigns From Claire’s firm that designs and from the public relations creates men’s and women’s business. Phillips described cessories chain posted fourth-quarter formalwear for labels and retailers the new venture as a natural By VICKI M. YOUNG results, in which the company said net including Arcadia Group, Marks & evolution of his company’s p.r. services. income for the three months ended Feb. Spencer and Brooks Brothers — In the past, he has art-directed CLAIRE’S STORES INC. said Jim D. 1 fell 82.4 percent to $7.4 million from alongside its own brands — is gearing campaigns for Black Frame clients Fielding has resigned as chief executive $42.2 million. Net sales fell 11.7 percent up to float on London’s AIM market. including Kenzo, Delfina Delettrez and officer. to $435.5 million from $493.4 million. The The firm, which is incorporated in Rodarte, for which he also coproduced He will be replaced by Beatrice Lafon, company said consolidated same-store Israel and has offices in London and a trilogy of short films by director Todd the current president of Claire’s Europe, sales fell 10.7 percent for the quarter, New York, released a Schedule 1 Cole; Framework is a formalization effective today. with North American same-store sales form to the London Stock Exchange of such services with a focus on what Lafon said, “As president of Claire’s falling 12 percent and European same- detailing its intention to float its Phillips calls “narrative content.” He Europe over the last three years, I have op- store sales down 8.5 percent. shares on the AIM market, the LSE will head the firm along with senior erated a multinational business across 15 For the year, the tween and teen ac- division for smaller and growing creative manager Joao Moraes, who has countries in a challenging macroeconomic cessories chain posted a net loss of $65.3 companies. Bagir plans for its shares previously worked at creative agencies environment. As ceo, I look forward to cre- million against net income of $1.2 million to be admitted to the market April 14. Redscout and Giovanni Bianco. ating value by leveraging best practices, by in 2012. Net sales fell 2.8 percent to $1.51 According to a spokesman, Bagir “I think there’s a huge space for maximizing the unique talents of both our billion from $1.56 billion. plans to raise about $35 million with brands digitally and in special events to North American and European teams, as The company in May said it planned the IPO, and is targeting institutional present content that has a story behind well as by harnessing the strength of our to raise $100 million in an initial pub- investors in the U.K. The proceeds of it that goes beyond a backstage video sourcing teams based in Asia.” lic offering, and so far is still waiting in the float will be used to repay debt and or something that’s very perfunctory or The disclosure came as the teen ac- the wings. to provide working capital to support what they’re already doing,” Phillips Bagir’s growth, the spokesman added. said. “I’m talking about engaging The firm, which counts more than with screenwriters and directors 1,000 employees, designs and sources to really tell the story in a different men’s and women’s tailored clothing. way.” Framework is currently working Bagir has a 12.5 percent share of the on videos for Nicholas Kirkwood U.K. men’s tailored clothing market and Hermès, as well as a campaign and a 14 percent share of the men’s for Monique Péan, which won the and women’s formalwear market in the competition run by the CFDA/Vogue U.K., the spokesman said. Its customers Fashion Fund and Kate Spade New For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. include Brooks Brothers, Jos. A. York in which the finalist receives a full Bank and Cintas in the U.S., while it page in the September issue of Vogue. produces 40 percent of both M&S and Phillips opened Black Frame in Arcadia Group’s formalwear clothing New York in 2004, with subsequent in the U.K. Bagir’s own brands include branches in London and Los Angeles. Spaces the men’s labels Simon Carter and The company represents fashion Peckham Rye. — NINA JONES labels including Opening Ceremony, COMMERCIAL

Nike, Peter Pilotto and Meadham REAL ESTATE Line Design from Concept to Sample, MANUFACTURER REPS WANTED SHE’S EVERYWHERE: Alexa Chung has Kirchhoff, as well as the Frieze Merchandising, Business Consulting. Current reps make $100k+. Our fashi- By Executive Sr. Designer | Mfr. on earbuds, iPhone cases sell in 5000+ been a frequent front-rower at fashion Art Fair, The Standard hotels and Email: [email protected] stores. If you sell to fashion accessory shows for years, so it’s fitting that Visionaire, among other design, art, buyers, email: [email protected]. she will host the Fashion Institute of fashion and lifestyle clients. LUXURY HANGERS ACCT EXEC The most comprehensive collection of Dress & Sportswear Co seeks exp Acct Technology’s Future of Fashion show. — JESSICA IREDALE 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes luxury women’s and men’s hangers Exec; must have strong direct Menswear Showrooms available in the world, 4 different relationships with buyers & mgmt; D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 sizes. www.hangerproject.com manage branded & private accts; PLAID OPTIONAL: For the opening of its (800) 495-3201 promote brand growth & development Alexa Chung with new accounts; develop sales plan New York campus, Glasgow Caledonian & strategies + strong merchandising front row at University will welcome Scotland’s First Showrooms & Lofts PATTERNS, SAMPLES, skills; Must have strong industry Calvin Klein’s PRODUCTIONS background; highly motivated, well Minister, the Rt. Hon. Alex Salmond MSP, BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Full service shop to the trade. organized and a self-starter - Resumes fall show. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 to: [email protected] for the inaugural Caledonian Lecture. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Scheduled to coincide with Scotland Week, the April 7 event will center on “Scotland’s Place in the World.” GCU revealed its plans to open a satellite campus in New York last year, making it the first British university to launch a campus in the city. On April 8, GCU’s first town hall Salesperson Wanted meeting will be held at its Wooster Garment factory hiring independent, Street space with Harris Tweed part time workers, high commission based Hebrides creative director Mark [email protected] Hogarth and chairman Brian Wilson Technical designer for women’s knit/ speaking with Brooks Brothers senior woven business in midtown. Catalog based dealing w. India & China Ftys. fabric specialist Doug Shriver to explore Expertise in communication, quality, fit. All level of inspections. Min. 10 “Fashion Sharing Progress.” Hogarth year exp. Send resume to is a GCU alumnus, and Wilson — a janetsingh.gunit@ gmail.com. former U.K. trade minister — is a visiting professor in GCU’s Glasgow STEVE EICHNER School for Business and Society. BY (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] Esquire’s fashion director Nick Sullivan

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