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WWDMONDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2012 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00

Sartorial Satisfaction It’s a truism that a designer should know her customer. L’Wren Scott obviously agrees; she designed all of Mick Jagger’s costumes for the Rolling Stones’ “50 & Counting: The Rolling Stones Live” tour that opened Sunday night in London. Together as a couple for a decade, the two sat for exclusive interviews while WWD photographed a fi tting — their fi rst joint project ever — on Friday at Scott’s studio. Not surprisingly, Jagger voiced fi rm ideas about fashion, particularly about what makes a look stage-worthy. But some readers may be surprised that, in one way at least, he’s just an ordinary guy. “Men aren’t interested in clothes that look amazing but are fantastically uncomfortable to wear,” said Jagger, here in Scott’s zigzagged jacket and matching Stephen Jones fedora. “We’re not into pain. We’re into comfort.” For more on Jagger and Scott, see pages 8 and 9.

PHOTO BY TIM JENKINS Bangladesh Fire Stirs Action Calls MORE PROMOTIONS LOOM

By KARYN MONGET in Bangladesh. It is the second trag- edy to hit the region’s apparel industry Retail Caution Reigns WORKING CONDITIONS in Asian ap- in the last three months. In September, parel factories are again stirring con- a fi re at an apparel plant in Karachi, troversy after a deadly fi re at a plant in Pakistan, killed more than 300 people. Ashulia, Bangladesh, killed more than “We hope the tragic fi re at Tazreen After Holiday Kicks Off 115 people. will serve as an urgent call to ac- The International Labor Rights tion for all major brands that rely construction and home furnishings will Forum, which for several years has on Bangladesh’s low wages to make By DAVID MOIN see a lift as communities rebuild. been tracking and responding to factory a profit,” said Judy Gearhart, execu- Terry J. Lundgren, chairman, fi res in Bangladesh’s garment industry, tive director of ILRF. “Their volun- MIDNIGHT MADNESS materialized president and chief executive offi cer issued a statement Sunday calling the tary and confi dential monitoring pro- just as retailers wished, but there wasn’t of Macy’s Inc., characterized Black fi re at the Tazreen Fashions plant on grams have failed. Now it is time to enough of the same old Black Friday Friday as “similar” to last year, while Saturday night the deadliest factory fi re come together and make a contractual magic in malls and along major shop- at Bloomingdale’s, a division of Macy’s, in the history of the apparel industry SEE PAGE 2 ping avenues through last week to juice “We have a game plan and a strategic up the mood for the holiday season. plan and you tweak here and there for That leaves retailers prepared to things, but we are not changing our stay the course and still confi dent, after game plan,” said Michael Gould, chair- a week’s worth of intense promoting man and ceo. and extended store hours, that they’ll “We are hitting our targets,” said meet holiday goals, conservatively set Linda Chang, Forever 21’s senior mar- at 3 to 4 percent ahead on average. keting manager. “It is a little early for They also believe consumer confi dence us to tell, but in the past two weeks, is holding up, though there’s plenty of we have been seeing good, strong uncertainty with the fi scal cliff looming sales growth.” and with Northeast cities still recover- “Last week didn’t move the needle ing from Hurricane Sandy, which cost that much,” said another retail ceo, retailers billions of dollars in business. who requested anonymity. For fashion retailers, it will be impos- “December is a big month. A lot can sible to entirely make up the lost vol- happen,” cautioned Kathryn Bufano, umes, though companies involved in SEE PAGE 4 2 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2012 WWD.COM

Bangladesh Fire Sparks Action Calls the Briefing Box {Continued from page one} commitment to workers and to in- in Today’s WWd volve workers and their organiza- tions in the solution.” The group claims there have been 700 factory fires in Bangladesh since 2005. The ILRF claimed that re- S e

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Mill’s brands (P.G. Field and S

Country Rose), Hippo, Infinity Woman, Karl Rieker, GMBH & Steve Scha Photo by Co., Kebo Raw, KiK, Piaza Italia, A Bangladeshi soldier walks through rows of burnt sewing machines after the Soffe and True Desire. fire at the Tazreen Fashions factory. As the fire began, about 2,000 Photo by workers, mostly women, were industry to improve fire safety edu- thoughts go to the ones affected by A Steve Shapiro image of Yves Montand on Fifth Avenue in New trapped on the ’’ first floor of the cation and training in Bangladesh. the devastating fire yesterday at a York in 1961. factory, which was crammed with As part of this effort, we partnered garment factory in Bangladesh. The Midnight madness materialized just as retailers wished, fabrics, yarn and cotton that quick- with several independent orga- tragic accident happened at a facto- but there wasn’t enough of the same old Black Friday magic ly accelerated the raging blaze. nizations to develop and roll out ry that does not produce for H&M. in malls and along major shopping avenues through last Firefighters fought to contain the fire safety training tools for fac- “H&M plays an active role in im- inferno as workers jumped from tory management and workers. proving fire safety in Bangladeshi week to juice up the mood for the holiday season. PAGE 1 the multistory building to their Continued engagement is critical garment factories. We are deeply deaths. The death toll could rise to ensure that reliable, proactive sorry about the disastrous incident Working conditions in Asian apparel factories are because officials said firefighters measures are in place to reduce at Tazreen Fashions.” again stirring controversy after a deadly fire at a plant in could not access some floors of the the chance of factory fires. ” The state-run news agency Bangladesh killed more than 115 people. PAGE 1 building. More than 200 people H&M, which considers Bangladesh Sangbad Sangstha were said to have been injured. Bangladesh an “important buy- recently reported that some 6,000 Mick Jagger and L’Wren Scott sit down for a chat about the Bangladesh has around 4,500 ing market,” said on Sunday that people die every year in fires in Rolling Stones’ new tour and the designer’s creations for her garment factories that make men’s, it does not work with the Tazreen Bangladesh. In December 2010, companion’s stage wardrobe. PAGE 8 women’s and children’s apparel, Fashions garment factory. The another factory in Ashulia, an ap- parel industry cluster near the Steve Schapiro, who took some of the most iconic photos Bangladesh capital of Dhaka, of recent decades, reflects on his career on the eve of the We hope the tragic fire att azreen will burned to the ground, claiming the U.S. release of a new collection of his work. PAGE 10 lives of at least 31 apparel workers serve as an urgent call to action for all and seriously injuring 200. There’s an intriguing array of fashion and photo books In the wake of the 2010 blaze, available at the moment, on subjects such as the designs of local trade unionists were critical Alexander McQueen and textiles through the ages. PAGE 10 major brands that rely on Bangladesh’s of the plant’s lack of proper main- tenance of safety and emergency To try to give local manufacturers a helping hand after low wages to make a profit. exits. Firemen rushed to the site but could not enter the fifth floor of Hurricane Sandy, Pratt Center for Community Development the building due to excessive heat, has launched the Made in NYC Holiday Shop. PAGE 11 — Judy Gearhart, InternatIonal forcing the authorities to summon labor rIGhts forum army personnel who tried to res- Joe Biden — looking very “un-vp” in a navy bomber jacket, cue the trapped workers, mostly khakis and a baseball cap — was all smiles chatting with as well as sleepwear, underwear, Swedish retailer has been ac- females, with their helicopters. Centre Street shoppers Friday on Nantucket. PAGE 11 daywear and robes, for retailers tively working to improve factory Many were seen jumping from the including Wal-Mart, Kohl’s, Tesco, conditions in the region. The re- building to escape the fire. Fashion will meet opera when two icons of the fashion J.C. Penney, H&M, and Marks & tailer published a Bangladesh At the time, Shahara Khatun, industry, Stan Herman and Rafael Sanchez, will be honored Spencer. The apparel sector gener- Development Plan, which is on its Bangladesh’s minister for home af- by the Martina Arroyo Foundation on Tuesday. PAGE 11 ated $19 billion in 2012 as of June. corporate Web site. “H&M wants to fairs, said an electrical short circuit Wal-Mart issued a statement: contribute to lasting improvements may have been the culprit. Fires Will Nicolas Ghesquière find a backer and strike out on “Our thoughts are with the fami- for people working in the cloth- in Bangladesh garment factories his own with a signature label, or wait for the right fashion lies of the victims of this tragedy. ing industry in Bangladesh,” the are common due to substandard house to rev up? PAGE 12 While we are trying to determine if plan said. “Now efforts are being electrical wiring, annually killing the factory has a current relation- stepped up, with the goal of sup- scores of workers who toil 12 to 14 Two magazines, WSJ. and T: The New York Times Style, ship with Wal-Mart or one of our porting social development in the hours a day in poor working condi- are gearing up to unveil their first fashion issues under new suppliers, fire safety is a critically long term.” Among the issues H&M tions for less than $50 a month. editors in February. PAGE 12 important area of Wal-Mart’s fac- has broached are’’ fire safety, skills — With contributions tory audit program and we have development and health care. from sharon EdElson on WWD.CoM been working across the apparel The retailer said: “Today H&M’s and Kristi Ellis EYE: Steve Schapiro photographed some of the most iconic images of recent decades — from Martin Luther King Jr. YSL’s Deneve: ‘Hedi vs. Raf’ Obscures Fashion Moment to migrant workers to Marlon Brando — but the 78-year- old says he’s still trying to get better at his job. For more To the Editor: designer encourages people to photos, see WWD.com/eye. I read with interest the article Letter to relegate fashion to a sideshow published in WWD Collections rather than the main event. In on Nov. 19, “Paris Match” (com- the editor particular, it obscures what is a To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is paring Hedi Slimane’s debut at much richer and I think more [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. Saint Laurent with Raf Simons’ press commentators around important moment in the fash- COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. debut at Dior). I always enjoy the world, from France to Italy, ion industry. Hedi’s choice to VOLUME 204, NO. 109. MONDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues reading WWD reports but I Japan, China and the U.S. join YSL was motivated by a in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance was disappointed not to see I regret that the best-known very clear vision for the house, Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, this one take its usual neutral and oldest trade journal in the which means round-the-clock Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, stance. So I’d like to make the fashion industry should reduce work for him and all my teams and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver following points: the collective talent of all de- to turn that vision into a real- Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North First, the article summarizes signers showing in Paris to a so- ity for all to see and enjoy. It is Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. the reviews as “comparatively called duel between two fashion also for them that I am writing, Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or tepid” for “Slimane’s rever- houses and two men. The ar- and to point out that the chang- inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine ential treatment of smokings ticle accords little space to the es under way at Yves Saint is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. (tuxedos) and bohemian dress- many other creative talents who Laurent will bring new excite- You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt es,” only quoting three editors, showed during Paris Fashion ment and change to the fashion of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request one of them admittedly partial Week and it was about so much industry at large. for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at (Cathy Horyn: “a cheerlead- more than “Hedi vs. Raf.” www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that er” for Raf Simons, the article Finally, to caricature the ar- Yours sincerely, we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at says). This does not reflect the rival of Hedi Slimane at Yves Paul Deneve P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED highly positive coverage Hedi Saint Laurent to a banal ri- President and CEO, ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER Slimane received from the valry with another house or Saint Laurent Paris UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. 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4 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2012 Black Friday Aftermath:

Retailers Remain Cautious

{Continued from page one} whether the volumes attained on president and chief merchan- Thursday were enough to ratio- dising officer for Belk Inc., the nalize the costs of keeping stores Charlotte, N.C.-based Southern open on the holiday, though regional department store there was a consensus that re- chain. Bufano said Belk had tailers open on Thanksgiving an “unbelievably good, record- probably grabbed some business volume” Black Friday. It helped from stores that stayed closed. that Belk opened·· at midnight on “Increased hours do not Thanksgiving, three hours ear- increase the demand pool. lier than in 2011, and planned Thursday didn’t make a huge aggressively by offering over 300 amount of difference,” said doorbusters from midnight to 1 Craig Johnson, president of p.m. on Black Friday. Customer Growth Partners. He “Many of us were out in the suggested Thursday openings stores. It was very packed from just shifted sales rather than midnight to 2:30 or 3 a.m., but amount to plus sales. it wasn’t a mob scene,” Bufano Specialty retailers felt that said. Traffic settled down from earlier Black Friday hours were 3 to 5 a.m., helping the compa- effective, though in many cases, ny restock and tidy up for the crowds leveled off pretty quick- ly. “Because of the Wal-Marts and Kmarts of the world and their earlier deals, I think that The outlet malls softened a little bit of the traffic, used to own the EARLY HOLIDAY HITS jump-start on Electronics topped consumers’ shopping lists last week, Thursday night. when self-purchasing proved stronger than shopping for gifts. Now, it is clear However, toys were also strong, and some heavily promoted that most all apparel and footwear fared well. Among the malls around BLACK FRIDAY BESTSELLERS: Q Deep-discounted Toshiba and the country are Emerson flat-screen TVs. Q Smartphones and tablets. open, and you are Q Furbys, Xbox 360 and Playstation 3 Q Footwear, particularly boots. seeing full-price Nike Air Max and Rampage boots scored big. malls win back Q Coats, mainly fashion outerwear and leather jackets, that Thursday including Levi’s at $99. Q Cashmere sweaters night business. across the price spectrum. PHOTOS BY Q Oversize fuzzy throws. —GARY SCHOENFELD, KYLE ERICKSEN, Q Small kitchen appliances, PACIFIC SUNWEAR OF THOMAS IANNACCONE Mission accomplished: Black specifically one-cup coffeemakers. CALIFORNIA INC. AND ROBERT MITRA Friday shoppers on Fifth Avenue. but there were still significant next wave of shoppers. “It was holiday shopper spent $423, up special promotions for the day. Martin said that Thursday lines,” said Chang of Forever 21, very strong from 5 all the way 6.3 percent from $398 last year. Thanksgiving hours encour- and Friday combined would which had 313 of its 458 stores through,” Bufano said. The NRF said apparel and aged early shopping, especially exceed $11.4 billion, though he open at midnight. Industry-wide, electron- accessories were the most pur- among younger consumers. didn’t have a specific estimate. Gap Inc., across all its ics, smartphones, toys, small chased category, favored by 57.7 Twenty-eight percent of week- “It was a reasonably good start brands, had 1,100 stores open kitchen appliances, footwear percent of buyers versus 51.4 end shoppers — about 35 mil- for the holiday,” Martin said. “If Thanksgiving. “We felt that (particularly boots),·· coats and percent a year ago. The percent- lion people — were at stores be- the volume was down in the $10 there was good demand pretty sweaters carried the day and age purchasing gift cards also fore midnight on Black Friday, billion range, that might have early on. It dropped down and were buoyed by discounts typi- jumped, moving to 32.6 percent up from 24.4 percent, or about been cause for concern. If you then there was steady flow cally at 40 to 60 percent off, and from 23.1 percent last year, ac- 29 million, last year. Forty per- don’t have a good day on Black in the early morning hours extended to before, during and cording to research compiled cent of those age 18 to 34 par- Friday, it’s hard to catch up.” through the rest of the day,” after Thanksgiving. Best Buy, for the NRF by BIGinsight. ticipated in Thanksgiving night ShopperTrak bases its estimates said Mark Breitbard, president for example, staged “a count- Matthew Shay, president and shopping. The share engaging in on data from 40,000 sensors in of Gap North America. “We will down” to Thanksgiving, offer- ceo of the NRF, said “Everyone Thanksgiving shopping in 2009 North America monitoring traf- be studying this to see how the ing deals every day leading up I’ve spoken to feels very bullish was just 3 percent. fic in the stores, government sta- traffic patterns have changed by to Thanksgiving. that the momentum from the A less-robust report on tistics, proprietary retail data opening a little bit earlier to un- In a very bullish report on weekend will carry into Cyber Black Friday itself came from and some of its algorithms. derstand the consumer dynam- the season’s start, the National Monday. Everyone has held ShopperTrak. “Consumers re- By the weekend, retailers ics. A lot of people said there Retail Federation, which has back some special deals avail- sponded to Thursday’s promotions were fixated on measuring the wasn’t as much frenzy, but we projected a 4.1 percent increase able only for it, and shoppers greater than we expected and impact of their Thanksgiving still saw lines out the door.” in total holiday spending, re- are looking forward to that.” better than retailers might have store openings, which were Gary Schoenfeld, ceo of Pacific ported total spending for the The NRF projects 129.2 mil- expected, which siphoned off more widespread this year. It’s Sunwear of California Inc., be- four days ending Sunday hit lion shoppers will be online on some dollars from Black Friday,” believed the Thursday open- lieves the shift to Thursday night, $59.1 billion, a 12.8 percent in- Monday looking to buy, up from said Bill Martin, chairman of ings, rather than encouraging which he called a “sea change” crease from the $52.4 billion 122.8 million in 2011 and 106.9 ShopperTrak, which estimated shoppers to buy more items, initiated last year, has retailers spent during the comparable million in 2010. About 85 percent Black Friday generated $11.2 bil- just spurred them to shop that better positioned for business at 2011 period. Including projec- of online retailers — both pure lion in sales in the U.S. this year, day and less on Black Friday. their full-price locations. “The tions for Sunday, the average play and multichannel —will have versus $11.4 billion in 2011.” Also, some retailers questioned outlet malls used to own the WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2012 5 WWD.COM

Midday on the main floor at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street.

The SoHo scene. The Roosevelt ·· Field mall’s nearly filled H&M in Manhattan parking lot was a holiday on Friday. destination.

jump-start on Thursday night. On other hand, consumer elec- visited his stores in Pennsylvania scarves, bed pillows and $8 Now, it is clear that most all malls tronics, toys and home got a lot on Black Friday. “I have never seen kitchen electronics, according around the country are open, and of attention. There was a lot of malls and stores this crowded. It to Penney’s Twitter news feed. you are seeing full-price malls advertising on doorbusters and Because of the looked like the last Saturday be- Von Maur enjoyed “nice in- win back that Thursday night people know doorbusters are fore Christmas.” Bon-Ton did best creases” at its 27 stores and on- business,” he said. in small quantities. Apparel Wal-Marts and with soft home, shoes and cold line business, according to Joy Retailers — brick-and-mor- was not a winner last week, but weather apparel, which “bodes Place, vice president of mer- tar and online — staged Cyber there is time to recover that.” Kmarts of the well for the next five weeks,” chandising at the Davenport, Monday sales before Cyber Hoffman said. “It is a long stretch Iowa-based retailer. “It’s pretty Monday, which as a consequence DEPARTMENT STORES ROCK between now and Christmas, but encouraging considering we are will lose some steam this year. Belk’s Bufano said the store world and their there are reasons to be optimistic not a store for the big day-after- It’s considered the biggest vol- sold “hundreds of thousands judging by the traffic.” Thanksgiving promotions,” Place ume day of the year online, but of boots in a day,” including earlier deals, “We were very pleased said. “What was marked down retailers assured that both Cyber Rampage boots, priced at $19.99. with the weekend,” said before is still marked down.” Monday and Black Friday are Sweaters, denim, small kitchen I think that Bloomingdale’s Gould. “There Von Maur opened only an still very significant volume days, appliances such as single-serve was a terrific beat in the stores, hour earlier than usual Friday even as business gets spread out coffeemakers and mixers, lug- softened a little with a lot of tourists at 59th and did well with handbags, con- more before and after those days. gage and tablets were also best- Street. Business was pretty good temporary sportswear, shoes, Apparel wasn’t top of mind sellers. “We feel we are going to across the board,” he added, cit- cosmetics, men’s half-zip sweat- for most consumers. “People have a good Christmas, better bit of the traffic, ing men’s wear, sweaters, cos- ers, Coach Legacy, Michelle and do not feel the urgency to shop than 5 percent ahead.” She ac- metics and coats. Michael Kors watches, Kate for clothing on Thanksgiving,” knowledged that usually there’s but there were J.C. Penney broke from its Spade cross-body bags and said Hana Ben-Shabat, a part- a lull in traffic the first week controversial everyday low Tommy Bahama sweaters, while ner in the retail practice of of December, and Belk hopes still significant price policy by running sales on cold weather apparel lagged. A . T. Kearney consulting firm, to counter that with a strong certain items. People queued which projected a modest 2 to cyber effort at the beginning up before 6 a.m. store open- SPECIALTY STORE 3 percent increase in total re- of this week and a “Santa fest” lines. ings Friday for specials like $25 PROMOTIONS PAY OFF tail sales last week. “There’s Saturday at all Belk stores. —LINDA CHANG, women’s boots. Bestsellers in- RetailNext, which provides a an overall perception that [ap- Brendan Hoffman, president FOREVER 21 cluded junior sweaters, men’s technology platform for retail- parel] promotions will continue. and ceo of The Bon-Ton Stores Inc., ·· flannels, women’s pashmina {Continued on page 6} 6 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2012

{Continued from page 5} product is so much better this and difficult for us to make last ers to measure and understand year than last year,” particularly year’s number.” Even online, shopper behavior, said specialty with personalizing of products. sales fell under plan, down to retailers were more productive Jacinto Romero, director single-digit growth. on Black Friday 2012 than a year of operations at Planet Blue, He said that because the cal- ago. Although overall traffic to said the five-unit Southern endar allows for 34 shopping the segment was down 5.6 per- California retailer nurtured a days between Thanksgiving and cent, total sales rose a healthy relaxed atmosphere on Black Christmas this year, versus 32 16.2 percent due to conversion Friday. It offered free manicures last year, “People feel they still rates up 2.3 percentage points, and juice, and a 10 percent dis- have time.” That could cause and average values seen as 20 count off purchases of $100 Brooks to pull the promotional percent better than a year ago. and above, and a 20 percent off trigger. “I’m not sure we’re going The busiest period was from 10 purchases of $200 and above. to be able to stay the course and a.m. to 4 p.m., with 58.5 percent of Romero said, “We adopted a not promote,” he said. the day’s shopping trips and 60.2 system that said as long as you Bob Mitchell, co-president of percent of the day’s sales hap- shop in the store, you are going the Mitchells Family of Stores, pening then. Black Friday’s peak to get something. We were able was also underwhelmed. “This sales hour was noon to 1 p.m., and to beat last year’s numbers.” weekend is the smallest week- traffic peaked from 2 to 3 p.m. end in the November-December “Business obviously is more LUXURY TAKES A BACKSEAT period for us. It was lacklus- and more competitive every Luxury retailers sat back, as ter and very uneven between year,” said Jerri Ulves, vice they typically do during the stores. There was no energy president, general merchandise holiday, though clearance racks and traffic was slow, particu- manager, at 135-unit Anaheim, have been visible for many days larly on Saturday.” He said be- Calif.-based retailer Styles For and designer sales on current cause the stores did not offer Less, who singled out knit bot- goods should break this week. special hours or promotions, toms, jeggings and lightweight Saks Fifth Avenue said it was even those people who were out sweaters as strong sellers. “We less promotional than last year. were “shopping more than buy- offered an entire-store deal, “I think we are going to make ing.” Women’s apparel and men’s

A rush for fast fashion at Uniqlo on Fifth Avenue.

Carrying the big haul at Macy’s in Roosevelt Field.

which most of our competitors the season, though I don’t know sportswear were the strongest did. That seemed to work for whether we will make up for categories. “For us, business re- customers this year because the week we lost because of ally comes in the last 10 days. It’s they weren’t going after specific Sandy. Our three big stores are way too early for us to gauge at items. They were looking for in New York City,” said Susan this point. The two Saturdays be- multiple items and a lot of dif- Davidson, ceo of Scoop and Zac fore Christmas is when the num- ferent product. I don’t know if it Posen. She added, “We were bers are critical,” Mitchell noted. was weather driven or fashion very pleasantly surprised by Business at Stanley Korshak driven, but it was exciting to see business Friday and Saturday,” in Dallas was down slightly last them buying multiple items.” which yielded a low double-digit weekend although online sales “I would expect aggressive increase. Scoop label cashmere continued to grow dramatically, promos in the marketplace and novelty sweaters; fashion according to owner Crawford to continue,” said Gap North outerwear, particularly from Brock. Standouts were sweaters, America’s Breitbard, who point- Sam, Paul Smith, Montclair and knits and handbags. “The day ed to sweaters, knit tops, colored Burberry, and boots, driven by after the election, maybe be- jeans and pajama sets as brisk Rag & Bone, propelled the post- cause we’re in Texas, it just fell sellers. “As we have been saying Thanksgiving business. off a cliff,” Brock said, referring all year, we have been trying to “The luxury sector is not to its brick-and-mortar busi- present a pretty balanced ap- about Thanksgiving. The num- ness. “It’s slowly coming back. proach, and we have felt confi- bers were OK, not great but the Last week was OK. We were up dence in our assortment.” business is fine. The good thing Friday and down Saturday.” C. Wonder, the 11-unit re- is that the consumer is back He anticipates December will tailer owned by Christopher shopping after the storm,” said be very difficult with business Burch, distributed scratch-off one luxury source. dropping about 5 percent. The cards with rewards at the Macy’s “It was somewhat of a disap- plan was for a double-digit gain. Thanksgiving Day Parade. The pointing weekend,” said Lou same day, it offered 30 percent Amendola, executive vice presi- ONLINE off already marked down goods. dent of merchandising at Brooks ComScore reported that on- On Friday, up until 8 a.m., C. Brothers. Because inventory line purchases on Black Friday Wonder offered an additional levels are in check, the com- hit $1.04 billion, 26 percent 50 percent of off markdowns, pany’s retail stores were much above the level of 2011, while plus 30 percent off the entire less promotional than last year Thanksgiving e-commerce sales store. “We had a very high rate and shopping was light. “There rose 32 percent to $633 million. of conversion,” said Amy Shecter, was not a lot of early shopping,” That put online purchases for president. “Most importantly, our Amendola said. “It was slow the first 23 days of the holiday WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2012 7

WWD.COM season at $13.7 billion, 16 per- hours of the morning, we’ve seen products, including its selection cent above the corresponding the deal hunters looking for that of gift wrap, ribbon and bows period last year. one item,” he said. “At 9 p.m., we and stocking stuffers.

Steve Yankovich, eBay Inc.’s saw more cross-shopping and a Black Friday sales were up vice president of mobile, con- different demographic — parents 17 percent. “Our online sales tends that mobile is “reshap- with children. They were not are increasing at three times the ing this year’s holiday shopping only grabbing doorbusters like rate of stores,” he said. “Black season.” EBay saw a 153 percent TVs, but also buying apparel and Friday online sales were up 70 increase in domestic mobile traf- home decor, bedding and sheets percent over last year.” fic, while PayPal·· cited a 193 per- sets and warm, cozy throws.” cent increase in global mobile Wal-Mart U.S. reported its best ANALYSTS UNDERWHELMED payment, and GSI Commerce Black Friday events in its history. Deborah Weinswig, broadlines quoted a 198 percent increase The retailer, which opened its analyst at Citi, continued to in global mobile sales. Mobile doors at 8 p.m., two hours earlier expect year-on-year holiday transactions were most popular than last year, said it saw larger sales increases of between 2.5 between 3 and 4 p.m. Eastern. crowds and a significant response and 3.5 percent based on Black Rue La La ceo Ben Fischman to its one-hour guarantee on key Friday activity, although the also said midafternoon was the electronic items. When the store mild temperatures heading busiest period among consumers opened, customers were buying into the weekend left her “con- who returned from early morning gaming consoles, video games, cerned about inventory and store excursions. Black Friday DVDs, Furbys and fashion dolls. overall sales, driven by weak- For us, business really comes in the last 10 days. It’s way too early for us to gauge at this point. —BOB MITCHELL, THE MITCHELLS FAMILY OF STORES

Lord & Taylor opened its flagship on Thanksgiving and took in a lot·· of parade goers.

Gap on 34th Street was open on Thanksgiving.

Inside Macy’s Herald Square on Black Friday.

sales on the flash-sale site were At 10 p.m., consumers showed ness in seasonal [merchandise]. up 53 percent, with transactions interest in electronics, including We were also on all of the Web at 3 p.m. and after surging by big-screen TVs, tablets, laptops sites which were sluggish due to 190 percent. Of the post-Thanks- and digital cameras. There was a strong traffic.” giving dinner sales, 60 percent large turnout for advertised items Johnson at Customer were conducted on a mobile de- such as iPad 2s, Emerson 32-inch Growth Partners said he be- vice, with the iPad representing LCD TVs and LG Blu-ray players. lieved Macy’s, Saks, Gap, 50 percent of total mobile sales. During the peak hours of 8 Bloomingdale’s, Tiffany’s, The Fischman also said that half of p.m. to 12 a.m., Wal-Mart pro- Children’s Place and other re- Friday’s sales came from mobile. cessed almost 10 million reg- tailers concentrated in areas “Interestingly, not only we were ister transactions, nearly 5,000 that were along the path of selling expected merchandise, items per second and sold more Sandy made up some ground but very strong sales of vintage, than 1.8 million towels, 1.3 mil- last week with some pent-up one-of-a-kind items — items lion televisions, 1.3 million dolls demand. He also singled out in the $10,000 to $40,000 price and 250,000 bicycles. Penney’s as having one of its points,” Fischman said. “It’s not just about Black best traffic weekends in over At Amazon.com, a spokesper- Friday anymore,” a Best a year, spurred by a 48-page son said the company sees this Buy spokeswoman said. brochure that dropped before season so far as the “best holi- “Thanksgiving Day for bestbuy. Black Friday and offered great day shopping season we’ve ever com is typically our biggest day deals, including $8 cookware had.” The site’s Black Friday of the year.” Toshiba TVs were a that sold out. deals started four days early on hot ticket along with tablets, e- “On a net basis, this is going Nov. 19, unveiling more “light- readers and smartphones. to be a so-so holiday,” which he ning deals’ than ever before. The Container Store swings put at up 2.8 percent to $557 bil- into extended hours the first lion, from $542 billion in 2011. DISCOUNTERS weekend of December through Clearly, it will be slower in There were lines of shoppers Christmas Eve. Kip Tindell, terms of year-over-year growth. waiting for Target to open its chairman and ceo, said he Last year was 5.8 percent, the doors at 9 p.m. on Thanksgiving has no interest in opening on year before that was 5.2 percent. Day. “We had 3,000 people wait- Thanksgiving. “Really wildly ex- — CONTRIBUTIONS FROM ing in Dallas,” said a spokesman, panded hours means you need SHARON EDELSON, adding that electronics and big- more staff,” he said. “Service RACHEL STRUGATZ, ticket items such as big-screen levels suffer if you expand JEAN E. PALMIERI, TVs were popular. “Historically, hours too much.” Tindell relies ARNOLD J. KARR, HOLLY HABER when we’ve opened in the wee on The Container Store’s unique AND RACHEL BROWN 8 WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2012

Sartorial

Satisfaction Mick Jagger considers two Stephen Jones hat options. ··

aspect of dressing. “Men aren’t torial side. Conversation ranges just get lost. But if you’re in an or early 19th centuries — what By SAMANTHA CONTI interested in clothes that look from a debate over the merits arena that’s really well-lit, like the French call ‘red in gote.’ amazing but are fantastically of two Stephen Jones hats, and we’re going to be in the next few I do those with a small tail. LONDON — It is 48 hours be- uncomfortable to wear. We’re not exactly how roomy a black-and- shows, you don’t have to be look- Obviously I’ve done other more fore the Rolling Stones kick into pain — we’re into comfort,” white patterned jacket needs ing like a Day-Glo.” mad things. I’ve done capes and off their “50 & Counting: The says Jagger with his big grin. to be for the famously athletic Jagger says silhouette and things,” he says. Rolling Stones Live” tour and a He and Scott are in the thick Jagger to move properly onstage. the different shapes he cuts on- “I think about parts of the fiercely focused, articulate Mick of final fittings at her King’s show. The show has a beginning, Jagger is talking about clothes Road studio not far from their so it’s very important to make in an exclusive interview with home in Chelsea and a short I’ve always done a kind of skinny an entrance. If there’s a second WWD. So, too, is Jagger’s long- walk from Edith Grove, where act where the lights or the scene time paramour, L’Wren Scott. Jagger once shared a grimy flat silhouette because I am skinny; I don’t changes, it’s good to have a dif- After a decade together, it is with Brian Jones and Keith ferent [look]. I don’t get time to the first time they’ve ever done Richards. change my pants really. So the a joint sit-down for publication. Dressed today in a pair of gray, have to worry about covering up fat bits! pants stay. So they’ve got to be Jagger — whose serpentine private-label trousers from the supercomfy, and not cause me silhouette put a whole new London specialty store Browns, — MICK JAGGER problems. I might change my spin on masculinity — is in full a dark plaid shirt and black Nike coat or shirts,” Jagger adds. flow about the dramatic impact trainers, Jagger is disarmingly “When you’re onstage [the cos- stage have always been impor- Costume design for maxi- of 18th century French riding calm. Sunday night may be fast tumes] have to fit, and they have tant: “I’ve always done a kind mum impact is just the sort of coats; the pleasure — and pain approaching, but the mood in the to be — for me —glamorous,” of skinny silhouette because I challenge that fires up Scott, — that came with wearing an room is easy. Scott and Jagger are Jagger says. “They have to fit in am skinny; I don’t have to worry who, before launching her Ossie Clark jumpsuit, and the so clearly comfortable with each with the show. If you’re doing a about covering up fat bits! So ready-to-wear collection, was a cheesecloth trousers that used other, and so mutually gracious small club like we did the other you’ve got to emphasize your celebrity stylist known for her to keep him cool onstage. with visitors, they could teach the week [in Paris], you don’t want silhouette. But then sometimes consummate discretion — and Ye t while he has very clear legions of highly strung, puffed- to dress up like a popinjay. If you want, on top of that, clothes for using clothing to empower ideas about how he wants to up celebrities a lesson. you’re playing in a really big that have movement. So I’ve al- her high-profile clients. She is look onstage, he’s like many For the moment, both are in- stadium, you want to be in su- ways done a lot·· of coats influ- famous for her lean, elegant other men when it comes to one tensely focused on the tour’s sar- perbright colors, otherwise you enced by riding coats of the 18th silhouettes, bold colors and ce- WWD MONDAY, NOVEMBER 26, 2012 9 WWD.COM

like anything that’s too flat,” In his 50 years performing, she says. She gushes about one Jagger didn’t always have so of the morning’s latest arrivals many options. Examining the — “a short little frock coat with mood boards, he recalls wear-

a little bit of tail movement” — ing a pair of Giorgio Sant’Angelo and points to another embroi- cheesecloth trousers from the dered jacket. “It’s quite fun, like Seventies. “They were super- a peacock. He’s sort of like a comfy pants,” he remembers. great peacock, really,” she says. “It was boiling. It was really su- To a large degree, color in- perhot on stage in the old days

spired the costumes. “I have my because the lights were very teal palette; I have my purple- hot. These days the lights are violet one, I have my dark, my not so hot.” He also names some black-and-white,” Scott says. “You of his favorite onstage outfits. can kind of work in your moods, “The simple Ossie Clark jump- and then you know you’re going suit was very comfortable. But to have three or ’’ four acts in your then, there were some that were show, and it’s going to change, super-uncomfortable because the lighting’s going to change, the they had metal holes, and they vibe’s going to change. I wanted to would scar my skin! So I had to make a hyper-tailored, glam look adapt those. The jumpsuit is a that deconstructs as he performs, very comfortable garment. Yo u Here and above: L’Wren Scott at work in her studio. meaning he keeps taking clothes zip it up, and don’t have to think off, and then maybe throws on about separates, and ‘Does that some gorilla cape made of feath- go with that?’” He points to a ers — for fun — over a T-shirt. An picture from a 1969 concert in artist needs his options to tell his Hyde Park, where he’s dressed story when he is onstage. I just in a billowy shirt that looks like think you’ve got to give choices. an extra’s outfit from Franco That’s how you approach it — the Zeffirelli’s “Romeo and Juliet.” artist needs options.” “It was like a shirt-waistcoat At the end of the day, [the performer] has to feel good in [his clothes]. It’s not you or I dancing and prancing out there. — L’Wren Scott

Jagger certainly has options with big puffy sleeves — very galore: Some of the pieces will comfortable. I took it off, and I never be worn, many of the de- was wearing a singlet.” cisions will be made at the last Jagger’s offstage style is more minute, and the costumes will low-key: He rehearses for con- most certainly vary from show certs in Nike sweats (his pre- to show. He’ll maybe don the go- concert workouts run for five rilla coat for two or three min- days, and he alternates between utes, says Scott, adding that he’ll dancing and the gym). When probably end up wearing three or not sweating it out onstage, he four jackets and between five and wears jeans “but not denim,” seven shirts during the two-hour and labels including’’ Lanvin, show. The outfit that Jagger wore Rick Owens and Dries Van to open the show is what Scott Noten. And while many may re- refers to as the black-and-white member him in the three-piece “zigzag swag” jacket. The silk Tommy Nutter suit the day he number takes its cue from the married Bianca Jagger back in matching houndstooth jackets 1971, he’s moved on. Timothy the Rolling Stones were asked Everest makes his bespoke suits to wear for a TV gig in England now — as does Scott. in 1964. Jones made the fully “Shirts, suits, jackets — zigzagged hat that went with the sometimes I’ll see great fabrics look. Scott says Jagger wanted a and I’ll just buy them for him “nod” to one of the band’s earli- and say: ‘I’ve got these beautiful est performances, but the mood fabrics to make great little jack- is definitely “modern and now.” ets or suits for you,’” says Scott. And, back to Jagger’s asser- More than two decades pHotoS by tion, comfort matters. He is younger than Jagger (she wasn’t tIM JENKINS famous for racing around the even born when the Rolling stage, swapping a guitar for a Stones staged their first concert lebrity clientele that includes els, and how far you can push. Jagger throughout the decades harmonica, and changing cos- in 1962 at London’s Marquee Nicole Kidman, Sarah Jessica But, at the same time, you need to — all sweat and vocal chords, tumes in a matter of seconds. Jazz Club), Scott says she hasn’t Parker and Penélope Cruz. avoid having too many emotions messy hair and lips. On a man- “He is onstage for two hours. let herself dwell too much on “In a way, when you’re de- and feelings because you have nequin in one corner, there’s When things are too tight or images of the band through the signing for this, you are design- to listen very carefully to their a floor-length, black coat lush scratchy, forget about it,” Scott years, including those in the ing for the stage persona,” Scott ideas. You have to make sure that with hand-embroidered ostrich says. With allowing for maxi- new book “The Rolling Stones: says in her studio earlier in the your creation, your vision [is in feathers and lined in metallic mum movement a primary goal, 50” (Thames & Hudson). day, before Jagger’s arrival. “So tune with theirs],” she says. “Mick bordeaux lace — a reference to she constructs the clothes me- “It’s better that you don’t it’s so great when you see [the really has his own style, and he is the Walton Ford gorilla design ticulously, often with seaming think about it,” she explains. clothes] come to life and mov- quite opinionated about how he on the band’s latest album cover. inside the underarm and across “But it’s quite fun to be shown ing — it’s amazing! I’ve worked wants to look. At the end of the A still-unfinished, floor- the back. “Architecture’s a big the pictures. I really didn’t see with lots of musicians — like day, [the performer] has to feel length tailcoat with dégradé part of our design — how to them before. As I wasn’t really Tina Turner — and I love when good in it. It’s not you or I dancing sequined beading rests on a make heavily constructed things listening to that music — I didn’t they go in front of the fitting and prancing out there.” piece of tissue paper on the that are comfortable,” she says. listen to rock ’n’ roll. I do now. mirror and do their thing, pose, Scott, who has designed cos- floor, while on hangers nearby The same goes for the brands I grew up listening to Muddy dance. I love that moment! As tumes for Jagger in the past (an there’s a long row of shirts: with which she’s working. J Waters and Howlin’ Wolf and you know, when Mick performs entirely separate team, unre- red satin with caviar beading; Brand made the jeans to order lots of blues, R&B and Motown. he takes things off, goes into this lated to her, takes care of the rose taffeta with gold sequins, after Scott whittled 20 styles I was happy to see Mick play other world.” rest of the band), is dressed purple silk lamé; one with a down to six. “They’re making with Buddy Guy and BB King [in The statuesque Scott, a Utah head-to-toe in her own designs tromp l’oeil necktie stitched in specific jeans for the show. They February at the White House].” native with a major mane of jet- — lace shirt, black skinny jeans, sequins down the front. Scott have a lot of stretch and are in- The clock is ticking, and black hair, says working with a sweater with gold sequins, a is excited about so many of the credibly lightweight. They have Jagger says he’s “quietly op- friends — not to mention one’s black suede jacket. The only pieces, from the feather embel- to be lightweight. Once we get timistic” about Sunday night. living-legend companion — can thing that’s not Scott are the lishments to the caviar beading the fit right we make multiples.” Scott notes that she will watch be a double-edged experience. Martin Margiela brogues. Her to the dishy leather jacket. “It’s The T-shirts are from Scott’s old all the shows from her favorite “The fact that you’re close with small studio, meanwhile, is over- got a subtle metallic sheen put friend Rick Owens. They are, place — the light booth. “It’s fun someone or friends with them run with sequins, teal feathers on the leather so in the lights she says, “superrefined, soft, — and I’m there just in case a can be good and bad. It’s good and sparkly jackets, while the it will look really glam rock ’n’ and just sit on the body perfect- sequin needs sewing, or feath- that you know their comfort lev- storyboards feature images of roll. It won’t be sad — I don’t ly. They are just beautiful.” ers need replenishing.”

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For more photos, see Schapiro’s Snaps WWD.com/eye. BERLIN — An eyewitness to history, As a freelance photojournalist in Steve Schapiro photographed some the Sixties, Shapiro worked for the of the most iconic images of recent magazines Life and Look, and later shot decades — from Martin Luther King Jr. the first cover for People. His photos to migrant workers to Marlon Brando — hang in the halls of the Smithsonian but the 78-year-old says he’s still trying and Atlanta’s High Museum of Art and to get better at his job. feature in countless private collections “I still haven’t done my best and galleries, as well as several books. photograph, in my mind, at this point. Many of his pictures are powered by I’m still looking for a photograph which that undefinable, invaluable quality that I really feel has lasting quality,” insisted propels so many notables to the top — Schapiro, sitting down for a chat at charisma. Schapiro says it’s not always Berlin’s CWC Gallery, the city’s newest evident at first glance, citing a shoot outpost of Camera Work. Surrounded by with a famous top model as an example. glass-framed photos from his long and “We were going to photograph her, varied career — a Factory party with and we’re in the Grand Canyon, and Edie, Andy and the gang, Muhammad Ali we’re driving to it. And she’s, like, shirtless and playing Monopoly, Barbra incredibly famous. And I’m looking in Streisand in perfect profile — he paged the [rearview] mirror and I’m saying, Edie Sedgwick and Andy Warhol in 1965. Sedgwick through his latest book “Then and Now,” ‘This is isn’t going to work at all,’” he published by Hatje Cantz. says, recalling a shoot with Christie he says he wasn’t always aware of when For a man known for his poignant The book, which recently launched Brinkley. “And the moment we started he had a hit in his lens, or that his photos of Dr. King and Robert F. in Germany and is scheduled for a shooting, it was perfect. So you can’t mountains of daily work would end up Kennedy, politics are still important, Friday release in the U.S., includes always tell.” as collectibles. but politicians of today hold little many never-before-seen images from What is evident is that his images “Basically, this little guy took all appeal, nor do contemporary celebrities Schapiro’s archives of journalistic work, also have a cinematic quality, so he was these pictures, and now I have them. whose schedules and speech are highly celebrity portraits and movie-set shoots, a natural to take behind-the-scenes This little guy was a workaholic, which controlled by publicists, Schapiro says. as well as some of his recent forays into portraits on some of the great films, was great. Because he left me all this Once, he spent days or even weeks with digital photography. The 50 years’ worth including “Taxi Driver,” “Midnight stuff,” laughs Schapiro. his subjects, building relationships of pictures reveal incredible access and Cowboy” and “The Godfather.” But The once brightly colored but now that developed into great photos. intimate insights. whether on the streets or film shoots, fading orange band on Schapiro’s wrist Now, he says, “if it’s not a cover, you proves that the little guy is still working probably spend two hours, and people hard. It’s from the Beloved sacred art have to keep changing their clothes and music festival in Oregon, one of every 15 minutes so that it looks in sCHAPIRO

E the venues he’s visited for his current print as if you’ve been with them a long v book project called “Bliss.” Together period of time. And you have usually sTE

BY with his son, who is keenly spiritual, a handler sitting there saying, ‘Oh no,

s Schapiro is making the rounds of such wait a minute, I have to fix your hair

HOTO events internationally, camping in tents — no you can’t put a cigarette — no P and snapping participants reveling in cigarettes,’” he says, dropping his voice the music and community, for the work into an intent whisper to imitate the in progress. This veteran of several commentary of an intent p.r. agent. youthquakes says there’s something Turning to review the famous faces missing in the current generation of he’s captured and the moments he’s seekers compared with those of the frozen forever in black and white, he Sixties. “You were very much aware of says he can’t really explain what makes what was happening in the world. And I a photograph have lasting power. It would say that in terms of this grouping, could be an emotional quality or an there’s less interest in the outside world intuitive feeling or immaculate design. Marlon Brando in makeup on the set of “The Godfather.” Barbra Streisand in an entirely,” he muses, noting a lack of “Certain pictures get better with time.” undated photo. interest in politics as well.  —SUSANSTONE

ness trainer in 1934 to a bare-chested Ronald Reagan wearing a cap and cradling a pair of goats in 1954 and Gregory Peck showing Ava Picture This Gardner his pogo stick(!) in 1959. There’s an intriguing array of fresh fashion and photo books available at the moment, on ■ “Alexander McQueen: The Life and the subjects that range from the designs of alexander Legacy” by Judith Watt, with a foreword McQueen to textiles through the ages. by Daphne Guinness (Harper Design/  —LORNAKOSKI HarperCollins), has an excellent format, de- scribing individually in detail each of the de- ■ In “Textiles: The Art of Mankind” by Mary signer’s collections, from his earliest London Schoeser (Thames & Hudson), more than 1,000 presentations to those in Paris for Givenchy and images of the materials created throughout then in the City of Light for his own house. It human history make the also describes his East End argument that textiles upbringing, his relation- are the most diverse and ship with his mother and creative art forms in the his exacting apprentice- world. Schoeser, honor- ship at the Savile Row firm ary president of the U.K.’s of Anderson & Sheppard. The Textile Society, has advised the National ■ “The Perfect Gentleman:

Trust, Liberty of London MCDEAN + COMMERCE/CRAIG The Pursuit of Timeless eye and the Metropolitan Elegance and Style ART Museum of Art about their in London” by James collections. Sherwood, with a foreword

PHOTO BY by Terence Stamp (Thames ■ “Hollywood Unseen: & Hudson), is aimed at fans Photographs from the of impeccable, traditional John Kobal Foundation,” English gentlemen’s fur- edited by Gareth Abbott, nishings and requisites, with a foreword by Joan offering as it does descrip- Collins and an essay tions of Jermyn Street’s by Robert Dance (ACC shirt and shoemakers, Editions), features a vari- Bond Street’s stationers, ety of playful, often silly, Gemma Ward in the finale goldsmiths and jewelers publicity stills from the dress from McQueen’s fall and St. James Street’s hat- Golden Age of Hollywood 1999 collection, The Overlook. ters and vintners. These at MGM, Columbia, are places where George Paramount, Universal, Gordon, Lord Byron; the Warner Brothers, 20th Century Fox and RKO. Duke of Windsor, and Fred Astaire shopped, and There is everything from Greta Garbo riding a shoes are still made at John Lobb, while shirts kneeling horse in 1926 to a Bing Crosby getting are still cut at Hilditch & Key and jewels set at Four of the latest fashion and photo books. suspiciously close to a Paramount Pictures fit- Garrard and Asprey.

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FX drama “The Bridge,” in what will be stretch of dove gray walls covered with her U.S. television series debut. a who’s who of the house’s illustrious Fashion scoops “I play a woman who has a mild friends wearing the “LBJ,” while the version of Asperger’s,” she said, adding American electronic duo Glass Candy that she has been reading a blog by energized a party space in the back. Ayo, FOR NEW YORK: To try to give local Penelope Trunk to find out more about Alice Dellal, Ana Girardot and Elisa Sednaoui manufacturers a helping hand after this form of autism. “The bluntness joined German Chanel enthusiasts Hurricane Sandy, Pratt Center can be funny, and then it’s also and Lagerfeld fans including actresses for Community Development has heartbreaking,” she noted. Hannah Herzsprung, Meret Becker, Muriel launched the Made in NYC Holiday Marina Hands, meanwhile, will star Baumeister, actor Franz Dinda, moderator

Shop, an online holiday shop featuring thomas iannaccone opposite Guillaume Canet in “Jappeloup,” Charlotte Roche and Berlin’s fashion and products from 170 local manufacturers based on the real-life story of a horse party-loving mayor, Klaus Wowereit, plus who collectively employ more than that beats the odds to win a gold medal another 1,000 invited guests for the 3,000 workers. photo by for show jumping at the 1988 Seoul opening party. Many of New York’s Industrial Olympics. The pair didn’t have to do But the highlight — and big question Business Zones — home to the bulk much research. “Actually, Guillaume mark — of the evening, which kicked of the city’s manufacturing facilities and I met as teenagers at the stables off at 7 p.m., was when Lagerfeld would and factories — were in the storm where we rode horses — it was a arrive. Many, including Wowereit, had surge areas. And others outside that passion for both of us when we were already returned to street level when range faced challenges. Hanky Panky, Stan Herman, Martina Arroyo and Rafael Sanchez. young,” she said. Lagerfeld finally appeared shortly after a women’s intimates company located After being shown around the 10 p.m. Flanked by two rows of body in the Garment District, had to halt the ideal fashion honoree,” said Martina boutique by Jaeger-LeCoultre chief guards, and with Laetitia Casta on his operations for several days due to lost Arroyo, who was one of the first black executive officer Jérôme Lambert, Huppert arm, Lagerfeld was whisked through the electrical power. That is one of the opera divas to become an international revealed she is partial to masculine crowd which parted like the Red Sea, labels being sold via the Made in NYC sensation in the Sixties and Seventies. watches. “Opposites are always better,” only to regroup and surge after him in a online holiday shop. Sanchez, who is best known for his she said. The same applies to her Pied Piper procession. “The city’s small manufacturers are longtime accessories business, will upcoming film roles, which range from This was Lagerfeld’s first official critical to a healthy, diverse economy receive the foundation’s first Michel a part in the mob drama “Dead Man Chanel appearance in Germany in with good jobs for New Yorkers, Maurel Award. Maurel was the late Down” to the lead in “La religieuse” 12 years, though he is a frequent and and to the character and soul of our husband of Arroyo who created her (“The Nun” in English). “She is a pretty popular guest on German TV and in the neighborhoods,” said Adam Friedman, foundation in 2003. unusual nun, as you will see. Neither press. Among his many personal projects, director of the Pratt Center. “By Arroyo noted that Sanchez has been criminals nor saints are as you imagine he’s currently designing some interiors shopping Made in NYC, consumers are an “important advocate for his untiring them,” Huppert mused. for residences in Harbor City in his helping businesses to finance their new contributions to our foundation.” Alexis Mabille scrutinized the Atmos hometown of Hamburg. — MELISSA DRIER inventory, pay their workers, and restore The mission of the foundation is to clock designed by Marc Newson, which the local economy,” he added. prepare young artists for a complete was displayed in a glass cabinet. The — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG operatic role before a public audience, French designer revealed his taste in from preparation through the final wristwatches runs from plastic Timex educational process, which watches to a diamond-encrusted includes drama, historical timepiece from Dior, though he has perspective, language proficiency since lost the latter. “Quelle horreur!” he and the psychological motivation shuddered at the memory. of characters. — KARYN MONGET After the cocktail, a fleet of black cars whisked guests to the neighboring POP-UP FOR SANDY RELIEF: 2(x)ist will Grand Hotel for an after party, where open a pop-up store in Times Square entertainment ranged from a piano today to benefit the Hurricane player to acrobats from Canada’s Cirque Sandy relief efforts. The company Eloize and horses from the troupe of stunt plans to donate 100 percent of its trainer Mario Luraschi. — JOELLE DIDERICH profits to the American Red Cross in Greater New York. The men’s shop BACK IN BLACK: “The Little Black Jacket” will be located at 1411 Broadway touched down in Berlin Tuesday night, and will feature a selection from where it’s literally gone underground. the brand’s holiday collection and The roving Chanel exhibition of 113 Rubt Zolot and Joe Biden on Nantucket. signature essentials (briefs, crew photographs of the iconic item, taken by necks, trunks and long underwear) Karl Lagerfeld and styled by Carine Roitfeld, rug BIDEN’S BLUE FRIDAY: Joe Biden was in bold color combinations, and will has been installed in a former subway k all smiles chatting with Centre preview its new watch collection, which tunnel below Potsdamer Platz. The show Street shoppers Friday afternoon on hits stores in the spring. The pop-up will opened to the public on Friday and runs Nantucket. Looking very “un-vp” in be open from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. through the through Dec. 14, before moving on to Franziska a navy bomber jacket, khakis and a holiday season. Prices are 25 percent off Seoul, Brazil and China. hoto by

baseball cap, he was still up for photo suggested retail prices. In addition, 2(x)ist The Chanel team transformed the p ops. When Terry Ventre handed off a will also continue drops of basic essentials offbeat venue into a sophisticated Laetitia Casta and Karl Lagerfeld camera for a snap of the vice president including the brand’s signature with her teen daughter Ruby Zolot to crewneck T-shirts, long underwear Biden’s granddaughter, Secret Service and Henleys to those communities hit agents intervened. But Biden’s kin the hardest. — LISA LOCKWOOD insisted on taking the shot and while doing so, the mother led the passersby CRYSTAL GALE: Baccarat is going big who had gathered in singing “Happy in New York, unveiling plans to Birthday” to President Obama’s wingman, open a 2,800-square-foot flagship who turned 70 days before. Noticing at 635 Madison Avenue in May that For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. how the presumably blue-stater will set a new retail template for teenager had flushed red, Biden kissed the French brand. The two-story her twice on the forehead saying, “This unit, designed by architect Rafael de is what mothers are supposed to do — Cárdenas, is to showcase tableware, embarrass their daughters.” — R.F. lighting, jewelry and more. Spaces Meanwhile, a Baccarat Hotel Call 800-289-0273 HERMAN AWARD: Fashion will meet opera & Residences is slated to open when two icons of the fashion industry off Fifth Avenue in 2014, the year COMMERCIAL will be honored by the Martina Arroyo the brand celebrates its 250th Subscribe now to REAL ESTATE New York Embroidery Studio Embroidery, Laser Cutting & Foundation on Tuesday: Stan Herman and anniversary. — MILES SOCHA Embellishments Full service shop to the Rafael Sanchez. WWD and trade. High quality finish. 212-971-9101 or Herman and Sanchez will be TIME TRAVEL: A modern-day version of WWD.COM [email protected] recognized by the foundation at a gala the Three Graces alighted on Place Showrooms & Lofts PATTERNS, SAMPLES, dinner at 583 Park Avenue for their Vendôme last week to celebrate the PRODUCTIONS BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Full service shop to the trade. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 community service and contributions to official opening of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 the world of opera. revamped and expanded store on the Herman, a recipient of three Coty landmark Paris square. Flashbulbs Awards and a former president of popped as Catherine Deneuve, Isabelle the Council of Fashion Designers of Huppert and Diane Kruger convened America for 16 years, has been an around the first-floor balcony of the opera aficionado for many years. He store, located inside the 17th-century brought a fashion sensibility to the Hôtel de Villemaré, which was uniform business for companies such as built by Louis XIV’s architect Jules McDonald’s, United Airlines, Jet Blue Hardouin-Mansart. and FedEx for more than 25 years, and Kruger, who is an ambassador for is a popular host on QVC, selling his the Swiss luxury watch brand, said eponymous line of robes and loungewear. she flew in from Los Angeles to help (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] “Stan Herman’s love, understanding cut the ribbon on the new boutique. and appreciation of opera makes him She is busy shooting the pilot for the

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Nicolas Ghesquière

What’s Next for Nicolas? Giannoni Giovanni Arnault’s galaxy of global brands, which ing mounting a signature brand, while By MILeS SOCHA include the likes of Louis Vuitton, Fendi remaining open to opportunities work- and Celine. ing for another couture name. photo by PARIS — Will Nicolas Ghesquière find a Indeed, one of the few times Arnault Karine Ohana, a managing partner backer and strike out on his own with a launched a fashion brand from scratch at boutique mergers and acquisitions

signature label, or wait for the right fash- was in 1987, when he launched a cou- firm Ohana & Co. in Paris, agreed pri- ion house to rev up? ture house for Christian Lacroix, even- vate equity would be a remote possi- The designer — who is to officially exit tually off-loading the troubled firm in bility for Ghesquière given the impor- Balenciaga on Nov. 30 after an acclaimed 15- 2005 to Falic Group, the Florida-based tance of deal size and exit strategies year tenure at the Paris house — is bound to travel retail firm. for such funds. weigh several options, observers said. LVMH officials declined all comment, “I believe only private investors “There will be a lot of brand own- and Ghesquière’’ could not be reached that have a good trust and under- ers who will be scratching their heads for comment. standing with the designer can back wondering how they can attract him,” Stefano Corneliani, senior analyst at such a lifetime project,” she said, not- said Pierre Mallevays, managing part- Intermonte SIM in Milan, agreed that ing that Tom Ford has a private fam- ner of Savigny Partners, a London- designer start-ups are a rarity in today’s ily among his backers, and Proenza based boutique investment bank climate. Schouler is “beautifully developing specializing in luxury goods. “Major “The market is overcrowded, and one through a private fund as well.” (In fashion talents can truly have a trans- in a thousand succeeds. To build a busi- July 2011, Proenza Schouler disclosed formational impact on brands,” he con- ness from a designer name doesn’t work a partnership with a group of 20 inves- tinued, citing as examples Alber elbaz — it’s the other way around. Yo u invent a tors led by financier John Howard and and Phoebe Philo, who respectively business proposition, then you tap a de- Andrew Rosen, the Theory founder catapulted Lanvin and Celine to criti- signer,” he said, citing Geox and Tod’s as and co-ceo who’s known for nurturing cal and commercial success. examples — where designers are not even emerging talent.) As for the possibility of finding a fund to paramount. “ Yo u start with an idea, such As for Ghesquière, Ohana said he mount a signature fashion house, Mallevays as the breathable shoe for Geox and the has attained international renown and downplayed that likelihood. “stands among the most talented “I don’t see private equi- and reputed worldwide fashion ty or hedge funds backing (a designers today….He is probably Ghesquière) brand, because of [Ghesquière] is probably perceived as one of the very few time horizon and fashion risk,” he who are perpetuating the French said, pegging the required invest- perceived as one of the very couture image, glamour and know- up for renewal, Ghesquière could be on ment for such a high-end designer how, in line with Dior, Chanel, Yves deck for a maison.” brand at around 50 million euros, few who are perpetuating Saint Laurent and Lanvin.” To be sure, several of Ghesquière’s or $63.7 million at current ex- executive search profes- designer peers are keen to see him back change, over five years — with no sionals agreed designers of in action. guarantee of immediate financial the French couture image, Ghesquière’s stature rarely come Told about speculation that the de- return. “Only a strong group with onto the job market. signer could mount his own brand, a confident vision and the means glamor and know-how, in line “I would expect that if Nicholas Lagerfeld told WWD he thought it was to boot would seriously contem- Ghesquière wasn’t already in talks “not a bad idea,” suggesting it might be plate that. The temptation for any with Dior, Chanel, Yves Saint with or committed to another brand time to stop reheating heritage brands such potential backer will be to at his departure from Balenciaga, and create some new fashion houses. try to apply Ghesquière’s talent to there would be some brands or elbaz said it “makes him sad” to see an established brand with operat- Laurent and Lanvin. backers lining up to court him. I “someone so talented” on the sidelines. ing leverage, not just to a start-up, say ‘some’ because only a heavy- “It was always Balenciaga, but he always however prestigious.” — Karine Ohana, Ohana & CO. weight with pull and power would made it himself, too,” he enthused. Luxury titan Bernard have the confidence and seductive- elbaz noted, however, that it is Arnault, chairman and chief executive formal casual designs for Tod’s, and back ness to even approach him,” said Mary not uncommon today for designers to officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis that up with strong marketing and media Gallagher, european associate for New take a hiatus from design, as has been Vuitton, is said to be keeping close communication,” he explained. York-based search firm Martens & Heads. the case in recent years for Philo, Jil tabs on the hot French designer, having Corneliani noted that “Cyclopean in- “Over the years, he has become as leg- Sander, Hedi Slimane and Veronique courted him aggressively last year as a vestments are needed the smaller you are, endary as (Balenciaga founder) Cristóbal Branquinho, to name but a few. Slimane, possible successor to John Galliano at and you are lucky if you break even in five himself and would imbue star power to for example, after exiting Dior Homme, Christian Dior. or 10 years.” a brand.” spent five years devoted to photography Contact between LVMH and He noted that Ghesquière could work Gallagher spied few openings at before taking up the role of creative di- Ghesquière dates back at least a decade, for a typical Italian brand that would want present that would match the scale of rector of YSL earlier this year. including a long-ago proposition for him to become more international, pointing to Ghesquière’s talent — and likely his de- After being ousted as the designer of to become Givenchy’s couturier, a Paris- Hogan and its recent collaborations with mands. “But with certain brands we’ve Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche wom- based source said. Karl Lagerfeld as an example. seen how someone’s sudden availability en’s ready-to-wear in 2000, elbaz took an According to another source famil- Sources close to Ghesquière said he can force a situation,” she said, allud- extended break (besides one turbulent ’’ season for Krizia Top in Milan) before iar with the luxury empire, building a intends to take some time off, though he ing to Raf Simons landing as Galliano’s signature fashion house for Ghesquière has already been approached regarding successor at Dior not long after he was landing at Lanvin. is seen as a less favorable option than several projects, some of an artistic na- ousted from Jil Sander. “And, depending  —Withcontributionsfrom plugging the star talent into one of ture. He is said to be seriously consider- on when a creative director’s contract is LuisaZargani,miLan

been one of the youngest guests at Coles had confirmed the layoffs of nine once Solomons started. That’s been put the magazine’s Innovator of the Year Cosmo staffers. on hold with this latest hiccup. Acting MeMo pad awards in October. Solomons couldn’t be reached by creative director Tracy Everding will When T hired busy stylist Joe deadline. A spokeswoman for Condé continue in that role. LET THE GAMES BEGIN: WSJ. magazine McKenna, it bestowed on him the Nast International said he never Staffers have also been surprised by and T: The New York Times Style title of fashion director at large finalized a contract with Cosmo, and Coles’ plans to take Cosmo highbrow magazine are gearing up to unveil their presumably so he could hang on to had only agreed to the job in principle. with well-established writers, much first fashion issues under new editors his other jobs, namely consulting for Coles cited legal reasons — his like she’d done at Marie Claire. While in February. There’s big pressure fashion campaigns for the likes of Jil acceptance of the job depended on him her tenure there was successful, they on both Kristina O’Neill and Deborah Sander. And Berger may be joining landing a visa. fear that Cosmo might lose its heartland Needleman, and they are looking to make WSJ. as a staffer, but he is not giving “I’m really disappointed we couldn’t audience with that direction. bold statements. up his other titles and will continue make it happen. I would have loved to Coles said she hasn’t planned for Needleman, formerly of WSJ., moonlighting at the magazine and the have had the opportunity to work with more layoffs. She confirmed Gillian has had her creative team in place agency, whose clients, according to its him,” she said. Flynn, the author of the acclaimed novel since early October. O’Neill is just Web site, include Givenchy, Hugo Boss The news is a setback for Coles, “Gone Girl,” is working on a piece and getting started — she raided her old and Lancôme. — ERIK MAZA who had been counting on Solomons to Nahnatchka Khan, the writer behind the magazine, Harper’s Bazaar, for a refreshen the magazine, which hadn’t ABC sitcom “Don’t Trust the B---- in features editor — and today appointed COSMO NOT: A couple of weeks ago, had a creative director in years and had Apartment 23,” has a feature in the Magnus Berger as creative director. Joanna Coles was gushing about her lost its design director, Ann Kwong, in June, January issue. Berger comes with credibility in new man, Cosmopolitan’s new creative while Cosmo was still run by Kate White. Coles would also no doubt like to the magazine and fashion worlds director Paul Solomons, whom she’d But it is something of a temporary steal some copy from Kate Bolick and already. The creative director of ad just poached from British GQ. They reprieve for staff. Naomi Wolf, two of the more well-known agency Berger & Wild, he founded had long chats about London and sex Since coming in, Coles has made it freelance writers at the recent Cosmo The Last Magazine two years ago appeal. He was set to start in January. clear in editorial meetings she wants to 100 luncheon, though she said nothing with Tenzin Wild. Several issues later, But theirs has been a short-lived shake up the magazine and is not ruling was in the works so far. the magazine is a fixture during fling. After accepting the offer, Solomons out further layoffs, sources said. Coles, who dabbled in television with fashion week. WSJ. has had its sights back-tracked last week, and told Coles During the first round, the art “Project Runway,” said she expects on Berger for a while. Among many he’d be staying put in London with GQ. department emerged unscathed, but more Hollywood talent to contribute to veterans of the industry, he had His decision came a few days after staffers had assumed they’d get hit the magazine. — E.M.

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