Le Petit Prints LYON, France — Nothing Says “Vacation” More Than Little Bikinis in Bright, Cheerful Patterns
CFDA RACE DOWN TO THE WIRE/2 DOLCE & GABBANA IN CHINA/5 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • July 17, 2006 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Le Petit Prints LYON, France — Nothing says “vacation” more than little bikinis in bright, cheerful patterns. And that’s just what designers have turned out for this season’s Lyon Mode City fair, Sept. 2 to 4. Just add water. Here, Guia La Bruna’s cotton and elastane number. For more on the event, see pages 6 to 10.
A Big Deal in the Bag: Lambertson Truex Finds Partner in Samsonite
By Sophia Chabbott NEW YORK — Lambertson Truex, one of the most sought-after independent luxury accessories firms, is entering the big time. The world’s biggest luggage maker, Samsonite, has acquired a majority stake in the eight-year-old New York- based company after an almost six- month courtship. The top priority is to open Lambertson Truex stores around the world, as well as expand wholesale distribution. Company founders Richard Lambertson and John Truex, who each built careers in the fashion industry See Lambertson, Page 14 PHOTO BY PATRICK KATZMAN; MODEL: GAELLE H./ELITE PARIS; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MIKEY/B-AGENCY PARIS; STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER STYLED BY MIKEY/B-AGENCY HAIR PARIS; AND MAKEUP BY MODEL: GAELLE H./ELITE PARIS; KATZMAN; PATRICK PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006 WWD.COM Showdown Time at CFDA WWDMONDAY By Marc Karimzadeh Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear NEW YORK — Diane or Joseph? THE CANDIDATES That is sure to be the burning question on every FASHION pair of fashion lips today, as the race for the next While the shapes are sleek and spare, the newest bikinis surfacing at the president of the Council of Fashion Designers of 6 Lyon Mode City fair come in bright prints, from paisleys to pineapples. America comes down to the wire. At 12:30 p.m., the black town cars are expected to drive up to the Condé Nast Publications headquarters on Times GENERAL Square, where the board meeting is to take place. Samsonite has acquired a majority stake in one of the most-sought-af- Members from Ralph Lauren to Oscar de la 1 ter, independent luxury accessories fi rms, Lambertson Truex. Renta, Vera Wang and Carolina Herrera will take The race for the next president of the CFDA comes down to the wire, their seats in one of the private dining rooms on 2 with Joseph Abboud and Diane von Furstenberg the top contenders. the fourth fl oor for a lunch and a meeting to dis- cuss the Council’s current issues — not the least DIANE VON FURSTENBERG JOSEPH ABBOUD Dolce & Gabbana, the latest designer brand to discover the possibilities of which will be a vote for the fi rst time in 15 Born: Brussels Born: Boston 5 of the Chinese market, is being patient about expansion there. years for the Council’s next president, to succeed Age: 59 Age: 56 INNERWEAR: Well-being and the feel-good factor will be the theme of Stan Herman. Their choice is between Diane von Personal: Two children, Personal: Married to Lynn Tatianna and Alexandre, with the next edition of Lyon Mode City, running Sept. 2 to 4. Furstenberg and Joseph Abboud. Abboud, daughters Lila 10 fi rst husband, the late Egon and Ari. Napapijri, the colorful Italian casual sportswear brand owned by VF The race between the two strong-willed but very von Furstenberg, and three Known for: Colorful and different contenders has become the topic du jour grandchildren. Wed longtime pattered neckwear, loosened 18 Corp., opens its fi rst store in the U.S. today on Mercer Street in SoHo. of the summer. There has been much gossip of ag- companion Barry Diller in suit shapes. Had brush with 2001. Retailers showed mixed results in June, with specialty stores gaining gressive lobbying tactics, with each contender tak- the FBI after Sept. 11 when Known for: The wrap dress. several box cutters were 20 and department stores losing ground, the Commerce Department said. ing very different routes to secure a win; a touch Annual pre-Oscar luncheons, found on fl ight he took on of controversy with Anna Wintour’s very public great legs, wicked sense of Sept. 10. endorsement of von Furstenberg, and constant humor. Quote: “I must have a pretty EYE analysis of the board members and which candi- Quote: “I always wanted to thick fi le at the FBI. If I was be a working girl, and live a of any help to them, then Prada shook things up by pulling in an eclectic crowd for the West Coast date they’re likely to go for. It’s a race that some man’s life.” I’m happy.” 4 opening of its “Waist Down” exhibit at the Rodeo Drive boutique. fashion types have likened to the 2000 Bush/Gore Closet: Wears own clothes Closet: Casual chic, often nail-biter — sources have speculated that the re- better than anyone. Loves in beige. Collects watches, Classifi ed Advertisements...... 21-23 sult could hinge on a mere one or two swing votes. dresses that are fl uid, including 1935 double- comfortable, and allow To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. The election will determine who will hold one back Rolex and olive metal movement, in colorful prints. Porsche model. [email protected], using the individual’s name. of the most high-profi le jobs in American fashion Author of: “The Beds,” “The Author of: “My Life Behind Bath” and “The Table,” and WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- for the next two years, with the possibility of being the Seams in the High- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. reelected for an additional two-year term then, memoir “Diane: A Signature Stakes World of Fashion” VOLUME 192, NO. 9. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- since presidency rules were changed to a four- Life.” ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, year limit last year. Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers The common consensus is that von Furstenberg is completed, the contenders will remain outside Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and could bring a high glamour quotient to the CFDA, to give the board a chance to discuss them. Each C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior as well as some of the most powerful connections board member, including von Furstenberg and Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance in fashion, entertainment and the international jet Abboud, will vote in a secret ballot. Kolb and CFDA Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. set, while Abboud, whose profi le has risen as a fre- attorney Jack Hassid will tabulate the votes, and Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable quent on-air visitor to the “Imus in the Morning” should there be a 13-13 tie, there will be re-votes Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS radio and cable show, is considered to be not only until a winner is determined. Once that has been CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, driven, but available, since he has little involve- achieved, Herman will announce his successor. ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four ment in his men’s wear business. Key members of the fashion industry have very weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. The next CFDA president will not just be a clear ideas as to the qualities they would like the Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. fi gurehead, but will also work in tandem with ex- next president to possess. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, ecutive director Steven Kolb on developing funds, Reed Krakoff, president and executive creative and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions scholarship programs, charitable endeavors and the director of Coach and a CFDA board member, said and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make recently launched anti-piracy initiative. The winner the president should be “someone who can be a our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would will also have a mandate to galvanize America’s public fi gure and really embrace a vision for the interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise fashion community and funnel the disparate voices CFDA, and galvanize the industry around the or- us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- — and egos — into one cohesive message. ganization. It has to be a powerful fi gure, passion- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- The two will certainly have their moment to ate, respected and admired. [We need] someone ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, shine today. Herman is expected to run the board who has experience in the industry, and can pick OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED meeting, which will start by ratifying 19 new CFDA up the phone and work on the important issues.” members. Following that process, Herman will Cynthia Rowley said, “The new CFDA presi- MONDAY: Project Show and Pool Trade Show 11, New invite von Furstenberg and Abboud to each make dent should be a mix of Eleanor Lambert and Kofi York (through Wednesday). their case to the board for 10 minutes, during Annan — the perfect combination of charisma and which the competitor will leave the room. Once this diplomacy.” TUESDAY: Trend Selection, New York (through Wed- nesday). The U.S. Labor Department releases the Producer Banca Intesa Said Closing In on Prada Stake Price Index for June. WEDNESDAY: International Fashion Fair, Tokyo MILAN — Prada is about to get a new shareholder. (through Friday). A well-placed source said that Banca Intesa, Prada’s lead banker, is about to buy a 5 percent Vietnam Fashion Fair 2006, Ho Chi Minh City stake in the fashion company in a development that would give Prada an enterprise value of 2.75 (through July 24). billion euros ($3.49 billion). A Prada spokesman declined to comment. The Labor Department releases the Consumer Price Under the terms of the agreement, Banca Intesa would provide 300 million euros ($381 million): Index for June. 200 million euros ($254 million) that will be in the form of a loan to Prada Holding NV parent ITMD VF Corp. reports second-quarter sales and earnings. Investments, and 100 million euros ($127 million) that Intesa will invest via a capital increase. Financial sources have said that Prada and its bankers are aiming to take the company public THURSDAY: Beijing International Jewelry Fair (through in a couple of years, fi nally executing Prada’s long-held and oft-postponed goal of listing on the Sunday). stock market. Charlotte Russe Holding reports third-quarter sales Prada may have another fi nancial commitment coming up. Private fund Equinox, which bought and earnings. 55 percent of shoemaker Church’s from Prada in 2003, has an option to sell control of the company Oakley Inc. reports second-quarter sales and earnings. back to Prada. — Amanda Kaiser COMING THIS WEEK SUNDAY: Brussels Fashion Fairs (through July 24). CPD, Düsseldorf (through July 25).
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Miuccia Prada and Painted Ladies Courtney Love in Prada. The Hollywood social scene has been rather sleepy so far this summer, but on Thursday night, Prada shook things up by pulling in an eclectic crowd for the West Coast opening of its “Waist Down” exhibit at the Rodeo Drive boutique. “The shirt, it’s good, no?” Dustin Hoffman jokingly asked L.A. legendary doyenne Dani Janssen of his snug brown button-down. Upstairs, where the lights were dimmer and the music louder, Monet Mazur, Taryn Manning and Amanda Peet made the rounds while LL Cool J wondered, “Who are all these people?” Miuccia Prada glided through the crowd with artist Francesco Vezzoli, who stuck by her side all night. But some, like Kirsten Dunst, skipped the exhibit altogether and just arrived early to Bar Marmont for the not- so-secret after party. At one end of the packed room Lindsay Lohan cuddled in a booth with her man-of-the-moment, Harry Morton, while at the other, Paris Hilton smooched with her ex, Stavros Niarchos. Heather Graham danced with Malcolm Gladwell, and Penélope Cruz chatted with Joaquin Phoenix until nearly 2 a.m. Back in New York, Allure editor in chief Linda Wells feted Kate Hudson at the as-yet-unfi nished Gramercy Park Hotel on Wednesday. Guests such as Liv Tyler, Jimmy Fallon, Anna Sui, Jake Paltrow and the hotel’s developer, Ian Schrager, gathered at the renovated landmark, which reopens Aug. 8, to dine on lamb, halibut and watermelon salad under masterworks by Pablo Picasso, Andy Warhol and Cy Twombly. Hudson, in town to promote her new movie, “You, Me and Dupree” — about a third wheel, played by Owen Wilson, who moves in with a pair of newlyweds — recalled a few of her own challenging houseguests. “Some of my husband’s friends think that nudity is very amusing,” she said. “It’s funny to me, too. But they think it’s much funnier than I do.” “It’s different with guys,” agreed Tyler. Uptown at the Neue Galerie, a rather glitzy celebrity was being toasted: Adele Bloch-Bauer, in the form of a portrait by Gustav Klimt acquired last month by Ronald Lauder for $135 Jimmy Fallon and Amber million. Even Lou Reed stood in line to pay his respects to the Kate Hudson Valletta gilded lady, who, despite the presence of social luminaries in Prada such as Samantha Boardman, Eva Lorenzotti and Aerin and at the Jane Lauder, was by far the most talked-about woman in the Prada room. Barbara Wilhelm had seen the masterpiece before in store. her hometown of Vienna, but came to take another peek. “It’s different seeing it in a small room instead of hanging in the big gallery,” she concluded, before heading down to Gucci’s Madison Avenue boutique for the house’s 85th anniversary party. There, several of the art world’s most fashionable ladies were shopping to stock their closets and support the Dia Art Foundation. “I’m going to fi nd a dress,” said Thelma Golden determinedly, as she blazed through the store. Needless to say, Dia’s chairwoman, Jaime King in Toni Nathalie de Gunzburg, was pleased with the Maticevski at the turnout, which also included Lisa Airan and Prada store. Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos. “Art is becoming fashion,” de Gunzburg reasoned. “Fifty years ago, if you had money, but no art on your walls, it was OK. Today, if you have money and no art, you are a stupid person. It’s a ticket into the social world.” Yvonne Force Villareal interrupted her to explain her own shopping rules: “My policy is, you buy art, you don’t buy jewelry and you borrow clothes.”
Nearby, at the Central Park Boathouse, the Young Friends of STEVE EICHNER BY NI/KWIATKOWSKI Save Venice were hosting a New York version of La Festa del Redentore, a traditional Venetian summer holiday. Co-chairs Adelina Wong Ettelson and Olivia Chantecaille wrangled a range of junior-set types, among them Tinsley and Topper Mortimer and Lulu Molly Sims de Kwiatkowski to raise funds to restore the Doge’s private chapel and Eva in the Palazzo Ducale. Mendes, A drizzle earlier in the evening meant that most of the guests both in stayed indoors, but a gondolier was happy to take adventurous Prada, at revelers for a spin around the park’s lake. De Kwiatkowski, for one, the Prada was not to be deterred. “It was great,” she said after her tour. “I liked store. the fog and the Italian singing. It was very ‘Wuthering Heights.’”
The gondolier, Andreas, gives Alfredo Gilardini and Lulu de Kwiatkowski a ride.
Jane Lisa Lauder in Liv Airan in Prada. Tyler Gucci. PRADA PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA; LAUDER BY ZACK SECKLER; TYLER AND FALLON/HUDSON BY MARK VONHOLDEN/DMIPHOTO; AIRAN AND GILLARDI MARK VONHOLDEN/DMIPHOTO; AIRAN BY SARDELLA; ZACK SECKLER; TYLER AND FALLON/HUDSON BY LAUDER DONATO PHOTOS BY PRADA WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006 5 WWD.COM Dolce & Gabbana’s Long-Term China Plan By Lisa Movius Compared with many of its competi- tors, which had maintained footholds in BEIJING — Dolce & Gabbana, the latest Hong Kong for decades before nudging designer brand to discover the possibili- into the mainland, Dolce & Gabbana is ties of China, is being patient about ex- also a relative newcomer to Hong Kong. pansion there. The brand opened its fi rst shop there last “For our brands, China is more an op- year, in Alexandra House on Chater Road, portunity than a threat,” Domenico Dolce but will open a second, 6,000-square-foot said via e-mail. “In the midterm, China store in early October on Canton Road. A will represent for us a very interesting 12,000- to 20,000-square-foot regional of- and developing market; so far, it’s still fi ce, with as many as 35 staffers handling small, if compared to other countries sales, marketing, shipping and adminis- where we have been present for many tration, is in the works for Hong Kong. In years, but it has a great potential.” Taiwan, Dolce & Gabbana’s one Taipei Although most fashion brands are boutique, also opened last year, will be bursting into the Chinese market, unroll- joined by another four by spring or sum- ing ambitious plans, Dolce & Gabbana is mer, and the company will expand into opting for a cautious approach. The com- Macao by 2008. pany opened its second directly owned Gonzalez forecast that the company’s mainland store in Beijing’s Peninsula China sales will grow by a factor of fi ve Palace Hotel in June, and is doing a soft over the next three years. By 2008, the launch of a Shanghai fl agship this month. company also plans to launch Dolce & “Our biggest challenge here has been Gabbana in Guangzhou and Shenzhen, ‘Don’t crack under pressure,’ because open second outlets in both Beijing and China so far has been too easy for us,” Shanghai and start selling the D&G label, said Michel Gonzalez, Dolce & Gabbana’s The new store which will go broader into smaller cities. Asia Pacifi c managing director. “We could in Beijing. Dolce & Gabbana executives insist their open 10 stores right away, but we don’t LISA MOVIUS PHOTO BY company’s small presence on the mainland want to. We want to wait until we can do it Shanghainese on business trips constitute Dolce & Gabbana franchise, but was thor- has not affected the brand’s image here. right, and keep to our own terms for loca- the remainder. Unlike most luxury sales oughly remodeled after coming under di- “With regards to the brand aware- tion, timing and service and management. in Hangzhou, tourists and businesspeople rect company control. Gonzalez said the ness, it will for sure know an incredible China is very hungry at the moment, but if from the rest of Zhejiang province are company expects the Beijing store to do rise after the next opening,” predicted you want to keep growing for the next 25 negligible. Men’s and women’s wear con- double the sales of Hangzhou, despite its Domenico Dolce. “Dolce & Gabbana is al- years, not the next three years, you must tribute equally to overall sales, he said, smaller size and basement location, be- ready well known among the Chinese VIPs go slow and remain superprestigious and but “men buy deeper; they are fewer cus- cause of Beijing’s greater size, affl uence and celebrities, but we plan to reach a high quality.” tomers but bigger buyers and will come and enthusiasm for spending. wider — though always top-class — target The company opened its fi rst direct- once a year and stock up. Women are Dolce & Gabbana’s Shanghai fl agship through these strategic new windows.” ly owned China store in April 2005 in more fl irty, like to try more things on and at Bund Six is slated for a soft opening on The Asian market remains a small one Hangzhou, a fl ourishing city of six mil- come more regularly.” July 25, with a formal launch in September. for Dolce & Gabbana, representing less lion people just south of Shanghai, and While casualwear dominates, Dolce & The Gothic Twenties brownstone, painted than 10 percent of the company’s busi- the capital of the wealthy Zhejiang prov- Gabbana’s customers in Hangzhou tend canary yellow in defi ance of local pres- ness. Of that amount, 70 percent is in ince. “Hangzhou has been a surprise for to buy a mixture of products. “They come ervation laws and the Bund’s traditional Japan and South Korea, with 42 and 14 us,” Gonzalez said. “It gave us a good trial for the jeans, but then we sell other things aesthetic, will house an 8,000-square-foot stores there, respectively. “It should be 50 in China…and allowed us to test for the with them, and they leave with quite dif- store, 2,150 square feet of back-offi ce area, percent, but that’s not the case, because mechanics and procedures, doing import- ferent items than what they came in for.” an offi ce section for 10 staffers and a mar- we only just began positioning the rest export. And we wanted to do so while Of the company’s Hangzhou clientele, tini bar. The company is deciding whether one-and-a-half years ago,” Gonzalez said. keeping a low profi le. But the business Gonzalez added: “Surprisingly, in China the bar will be self-managed or done with The company’s plans are to use China as turned out to be a fantastic experience, we don’t see that many fashion victim a partner. a beachhead for expansion into other de- is doing well and has the highest sales in customers. Most want what’s exclusive “In terms of furbishing and general lay- veloping markets in Asia, and for the region the mall. Therefore, Hangzhou makes us over what’s trendy, and instead of the logo out, there will be a consistency between to eventually represent 25 percent of sales. a lot more confi dent.” part of the collection they are going for the new Chinese shops and all the other “China and Asia in general represent Gonzalez explained that the customer the elaborate look. People here are a lot Dolce & Gabbana shops in the world, in- two very important markets for the com- demographic at the Hangzhou store has more daring than even in Europe, they cluding Hangzhou: our style, our concepts pany,” Gabbana said. “We believe that reflected global trends for the brand: want people to notice them. It’s a way to and our traditional mix of Mediterranean these markets have a notable amount “Women aged 30 to 35 on up, affl uent improve and frame their personality.” luxury and design will be fully refl ected by of unexploited potential for our brands, and very fashion-conscious.” Of those, The 2,690-square-foot Beijing shop oc- both the Beijing and the Shanghai stores,” so we will continue to invest heavily in local Hangzhounese are 90 percent, and cupies the same location as a previous Stefano Gabbana explained in an e-mail. these regions.”
Daily News late last week The Manhattan Sailing sparked renewed interest in School in North Cove Marina, the fate of gossip columnist which is sponsored by Condé MEMO PAD Lloyd Grove. The chart, which Nast, parent of WWD, is showed a reorganized features adding more boats to its SPOTTING THE FAKE: The man who has department, did not allot fl eet. Each boat at the Sailing been impersonating Jane fashion director a place for Grove to sit. School fl ies the fl ag of a Kusum Lynn and various other Condé Nast Employees believed this might magazine in the Condé Nast employees has been found! Or, at least a fi nally signal the end of Grove’s stable, and during weekly photo of him has been located on the Web. time at the paper. However, as regattas, the boats race WWD was alerted to an image on Grove put it Friday, “This is not against each other, pitting Patrickmcmullan.com on Friday by a tea leaf worth reading.” Vanity Fair against, say, Bon someone who has had multiple run-ins Managing editor of Appetit. But one fl ag that “with the little creep.” The picture shows features Orla Healy said, “I fl ew above a boat last year a short-in-stature, dark-skinned man am physically reorganizing disappeared this season. “I identifi ed as “Prianta Silva,” posing with a the features department. It’s just a little am not sure what happened to the Cargo blonde woman captioned “Christina Wiltsee.” housekeeping that affects the features fl ag,” said the harbor’s commodore, Michael “He’s very crafty,” said the source. and art departments. It has nothing to do Fortenbaugh. “At end of every season, fl ags “He’ll use an e-mail that ends in with Lloyd.” are looking a bit worn, so it is important condenastonline.com, so he must have While George Rush and Joanna Molloy that we dispose of them and only fl y bright registered that domain. He’s also been and their gossip pod will be moving, Grove, new fl ags every spring.” claiming to be a producer from ‘Crash.’ it seems, will remain at his current desk, Fortenbaugh added, “The boats are all There’s a real company called Red Wagon on the edge of the features department doing great this year. We have expanded Entertainment, and he often says he’s near the business section. “I am an our docks and the number of boats at from Red Wagon Films.” island of tranquility,” he said, happy to be North Cove. We have added more fl ags, He has also, according to another staying put. “I don’t even have to clean and two more boats will also join our North caller, been attending charity benefi ts as up. My messy desk isn’t encroaching Cove fl eet later this month.” Vogue senior editor of special projects on anything.” Grove, as usual, declined Clearly it’s a busy time for Fortenbaugh, Alexandra Kotur. MCMULLAN/PMC PATRICK PHOTO BY to comment on his ongoing contract who was in Monaco earlier in the summer Perhaps someone should notify the The Condé Nast impersonator and friend. negotiations, saying only, “I am ecstatic to meet with Prince Albert Grimaldi about authorities. his own check. And then I presume they that whatever happens, I might outlast the creating a Monaco-to-New York race. And “He’s linked his name to a variety of bounce.” — Sara James media writers at WWD.” — Sara James then there’s the occasional celebrity to Vogue editors, including Alexandra,’’ said entertain at North Cove. “Stone Phillips of a Vogue spokesman. “As I understand it, GROVE’S ROOTS: A copy of a new seating CARGO MISSING: It’s like the magazine never Dateline was down sailing on Friday with his when he goes to those events, he writes chart that circulated at the New York even existed. nephew Ben,” he said. — S.J. 6 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006
Foshan Nanhai’s polyamide and elastane bikini.
PrintsLYON, France — While the shapes are sleek andof simple, the newest Tides bikinis surfacing at the Lyon Mode City PrintsLYON, France — While the shapes are sleek andof simple, the newest Tides bikinis surfacing at the Lyon Mode City fair come in patterns bursting with color: pretty paisleys, bold geometrics and even playful pineapples. WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006 7 WWD.COM
Cia Maritima’s beaded polyamide and elastane bikini.
Jenna de Rosnay’s polyamide and elastane bikini.
Marlies Dekkers’ polyamide and elastane bikini.
Huit’s polyamide and elastane bikini. PHOTOS BY PATRICK KATZMAN; MODEL: GAELLE H./ELITE PARIS; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MIKEY/B-AGENCY PARIS; STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER STYLED BY MIKEY/B-AGENCY PARIS; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MODEL: GAELLE H./ELITE PARIS; KATZMAN; PATRICK PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006 WWD.COM Lyon Preview
Elise Aucouturier’s cotton gauze and polyester lace camisole La Vie en Rose and panties. LYON, France — From barely there pale tones to bright sherbet shades, pink is the color of choice for many designers at this season’s Lyon Mode City fair. Tiny bows, lace and crochet details give the looks extra-girly touches.
Nina Ricci’s polyester and polyamide bra and panties with lace trim.
Sabrina Nadal’s silk satin slip with lace trim.
Guia La Bruna’s cotton slip. PHOTOS BY PATRICK KATZMAN; MODEL: GAELLE H./ELITE PARIS; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MIKEY/B-AGENCY PARIS; STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER STYLED BY MIKEY/B-AGENCY PARIS; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MODEL: GAELLE H./ELITE PARIS; KATZMAN; PATRICK PHOTOS BY
10 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006 WWD.COM Lyon Preview Mode City Show Gets in the Mood
By Katya Foreman PARIS — Well-being and the feel-good factor will be the theme of the next edition of Lyon Mode City, running Sept. 2-4. “Lyon is all about summer fare and has a big swimwear presence, so we decided to channel an uplifting theme that’s also suited to sports and the outdoors,” said Chantal Malingrey, executive director of show producer Eurovet’s lingerie division. Air- and water-based treats, such as giant fans and refreshing mist sprays, will be on hand to get visitors in the mood. The beachwear section will feature themed areas for easy orientation: Win Dream for sportswear, Diva Nautic for high-end brands and Beach Mania for fashion brands. Lyon is all about summer fare and has a big swimwear“ presence, so we decided to channel an uplifting theme. ” — Chantal Malingrey, Eurovet
A separate “minimarket” will host beachwear accessories, resortwear and chil- dren’s lines, while the young designer-oriented Spicy Garden will sprout a separate beachwear area. Diverse well-being-related topics will be treated in the salon’s conference center, A rendering of the Interfi lière trend forum. such as the effects of the sun and the development of UV-related intelligent textiles, merchandising trends and comfort issues for big sizes. Emerging brands will also be national markets, which takes a lot of planning, as well as extra costs.” arranged by continent. The innerwear and beachwear forum, called Spray, will group trends into water With a number of traditional lingerie brands such as Chantelle, Aubade, Triumph, themes: Spray for body and spawear, Boiling Point for traditional brands, Geyser for Princesse Tam Tam and Simone Pérèle deciding not to exhibit at this year’s show, luxury brands and Soda for young brands. exhibitor levels for swim and innerwear brands are slightly lower than last year, with The Interfi lière textiles section has been switched from hall seven to hall four, the number of exhibitors at the companion Interfi lière show staying about the same. with 31 newcomers, including Nagel & Hermann from Austria, and Keller AG, which Innerwear newcomers include Myla, Marlies Dekkers, Fruit of the Loom, Les specializes in fi re-resistant weaves. Maçons Danseurs and Frankie Morello. For beachwear, Vivienne Westwood, Rosa The forum’s trend library, housed in a circus tent, will feature exhibitors’ newest Cha, Coco Doce, Puket, New Age and Aqua are some of the new names signed up. textile swatches, showing how they lend themselves to innerwear. The Hi-Tech section “Several factors, such as the troubled European market, contribute to the fact that will showcase cutting-edge machinery, as well as fi bers and threads. certain brands won’t be showing this time; however, it’s also largely due to the restruc- But well-being is also about having fun, so stands will be hosting happy hours from turing of a lot of these fi rms,” Malingrey said. “It’s a time of mutation for European 5-7 p.m. each day. Another opportunity to mingle will be the summer party on Sept. 2, brands. A lot of them are building independent distribution channels to enter inter- during which fi estas will take place on four themed beaches. Pushing the Feel-Good Factor PARIS — An all-encompassing handle for innerwear that is intended to make customers feel good — well-being — is among the industry’s fastest-growing trends and categories. Spawned by the growth of health spas and meditation-oriented practices such as yoga, the term is an umbrella for a rising number of brands that are making a priority of natural fabrics and comfort- oriented, nurturing elements in their designs. It also spills over to merchandising and customer service. “Well-being is a modern concept that goes with the look and feel of a collection down to its packaging and service — it’s about anything that’s geared to making a customer feel good,” said Chantal Malingrey, executive director of trade show producer Eurovet’s lingerie division. A growing number of textile manufacturers are peddling products geared to the trend. “After years of experimentation, fi rms are delivering well-being- oriented fabrics, such as micro-encapsulated textiles injected with aloe vera, say, or essential oils,” said Anne-Lise Thauvin, exhibition manager for Eurovet’s Interfi lière section. Thauvin noted a rise in feather-light, ultrasoft fabrics, as well as A part of us is always close to you eco-friendly textiles. “We’ve noted a rising trend for customers overlooking fashion brands for innerwear made from supersoft cottons with elegant fi n- ishes that are, above all, comfortable,” said Lilia Bondarchuk, chief brand manager for Russian chain stores Wild Orchid and Bustier. Bondarchuk cited Italy’s Cotton Club, which delivers fashionable but snug innerwear. Veronique Fremont, owner of Parisian lingerie boutique Emilia Cosi, said women are demanding all-silk or cot- ton pieces for “cocooning” at home that work as comfortable, but elegant basics. Come Visit Us At: Popular brands include Italian label Verde Veronica’s cotton and linen nightshirts tricked with lace, and elegant basics by Cotton Club Interfilière - Lyon, France and Armani, Fremont said. Belgian lingerie designer Carine Gilson, who opened a Paris bou- Sept. 2-4, 2006 tique in June, believes well-being is also linked to a return to luxury. Gilson’s bras, for example, come entirely covered in silk, and her Stand Hall 2, Stand B52 labels are sewn into garments to avoid irritation. French buyer Cathy Abruzzo launched her well-being innerwear col- lection, Peau Ethique, or Ethical Skin, for adults and infants in 2004. Certain lines, like British brand Aloe and New York loungewear brand Skin, have hit the spa circuit.
® “My pieces work particularly well in health resorts,” said Skin’s de- signer, Susan Beischel, whose pieces are made from 100 percent pima cotton. “Spa clients like to wear something that makes them feel pam- pered, like their environment. The smallest details in the collection are created to support emotional and physical well-being.” Headquarters Nilit Ltd. Maurizio Levi Rd. P.O.Box 276 Ramat Gabriel, Migdal Haemek, 23102 Israel. Tel: +972-4-654-4634 Laurence Dekowski, director of Le Bon Marché’s lingerie depart- Fax: +972-4-654-4636, e-mail: [email protected], www.nilit.com ment in Paris, said best-selling brands include well-being lines in- Nilit America Corp. 6903 International Drive, Greensboro, NC 27409 USA, Tel: +1 336 605 1962 , Fax: +1 336 605 1951, E-mail: [email protected] spired by yoga, dance and gymwear. — K.F.
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