Quick viewing(Text Mode)

Le Petit Prints LYON, France — Nothing Says “Vacation” More Than Little Bikinis in Bright, Cheerful Patterns

Le Petit Prints LYON, France — Nothing Says “Vacation” More Than Little Bikinis in Bright, Cheerful Patterns

CFDA RACE DOWN TO THE WIRE/2 DOLCE & GABBANA IN CHINA/5 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • July 17, 2006 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Le Petit Prints LYON, France — Nothing says “vacation” more than little bikinis in bright, cheerful patterns. And that’s just what designers have turned out for this season’s Lyon Mode City fair, Sept. 2 to 4. Just add water. Here, Guia La Bruna’s cotton and elastane number. For more on the event, see pages 6 to 10.

A Big Deal in the Bag: Lambertson Truex Finds Partner in Samsonite

By Sophia Chabbott — Lambertson Truex, one of the most sought-after independent luxury accessories firms, is entering the big time. The world’s biggest luggage maker, Samsonite, has acquired a majority stake in the eight-year-old New York- based company after an almost six- month courtship. The top priority is to open Lambertson Truex stores around the world, as well as expand wholesale distribution. Company founders Richard Lambertson and John Truex, who each built careers in the fashion industry See Lambertson, Page 14 PHOTO BY PATRICK KATZMAN; MODEL: GAELLE H./ELITE PARIS; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MIKEY/B-AGENCY PARIS; STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER STYLED BY MIKEY/B-AGENCY HAIR PARIS; AND MAKEUP BY MODEL: GAELLE H./ELITE PARIS; KATZMAN; PATRICK PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006 WWD.COM Showdown Time at CFDA WWDMONDAY By Marc Karimzadeh Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear NEW YORK — Diane or Joseph? THE CANDIDATES That is sure to be the burning question on every FASHION pair of fashion lips today, as the race for the next While the shapes are sleek and spare, the newest bikinis surfacing at the president of the Council of Fashion Designers of 6 Lyon Mode City fair come in bright prints, from paisleys to pineapples. America comes down to the wire. At 12:30 p.m., the black town cars are expected to drive up to the Condé Nast Publications headquarters on Times GENERAL Square, where the board meeting is to take place. Samsonite has acquired a majority stake in one of the most-sought-af- Members from to Oscar de la 1 ter, independent luxury accessories fi rms, Lambertson Truex. Renta, and will take The race for the next president of the CFDA comes down to the wire, their seats in one of the private dining rooms on 2 with Joseph Abboud and Diane von Furstenberg the top contenders. the fourth fl oor for a lunch and a meeting to dis- cuss the Council’s current issues — not the least DIANE VON FURSTENBERG JOSEPH ABBOUD Dolce & Gabbana, the latest designer brand to discover the possibilities of which will be a vote for the fi rst time in 15 Born: Brussels Born: Boston 5 of the Chinese market, is being patient about expansion there. years for the Council’s next president, to succeed Age: 59 Age: 56 INNERWEAR: Well-being and the feel-good factor will be the theme of Stan Herman. Their choice is between Diane von Personal: Two children, Personal: Married to Lynn Tatianna and Alexandre, with the next edition of Lyon Mode City, running Sept. 2 to 4. Furstenberg and Joseph Abboud. Abboud, daughters Lila 10 fi rst husband, the late Egon and Ari. Napapijri, the colorful Italian casual sportswear brand owned by VF The race between the two strong-willed but very von Furstenberg, and three Known for: Colorful and different contenders has become the topic du jour grandchildren. Wed longtime pattered neckwear, loosened 18 Corp., opens its fi rst store in the U.S. today on Mercer Street in SoHo. of the summer. There has been much gossip of ag- companion Barry Diller in suit shapes. Had brush with 2001. Retailers showed mixed results in June, with specialty stores gaining gressive lobbying tactics, with each contender tak- the FBI after Sept. 11 when Known for: The wrap dress. several box cutters were 20 and department stores losing ground, the Commerce Department said. ing very different routes to secure a win; a touch Annual pre-Oscar luncheons, found on fl ight he took on of controversy with ’s very public great legs, wicked sense of Sept. 10. endorsement of von Furstenberg, and constant humor. Quote: “I must have a pretty EYE analysis of the board members and which candi- Quote: “I always wanted to thick fi le at the FBI. If I was be a working girl, and live a of any help to them, then Prada shook things up by pulling in an eclectic crowd for the West Coast date they’re likely to go for. It’s a race that some man’s life.” I’m happy.” 4 opening of its “Waist Down” exhibit at the Rodeo Drive boutique. fashion types have likened to the 2000 Bush/Gore Closet: Wears own clothes Closet: Casual chic, often nail-biter — sources have speculated that the re- better than anyone. Loves in beige. Collects watches, Classifi ed Advertisements...... 21-23 sult could hinge on a mere one or two swing votes. dresses that are fl uid, including 1935 double- comfortable, and allow To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. The election will determine who will hold one back Rolex and olive metal movement, in colorful prints. Porsche model. [email protected], using the individual’s name. of the most high-profi le jobs in American fashion Author of: “The Beds,” “The Author of: “My Life Behind Bath” and “The Table,” and WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- for the next two years, with the possibility of being the Seams in the High- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. reelected for an additional two-year term then, memoir “Diane: A Signature Stakes World of Fashion” VOLUME 192, NO. 9. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- since presidency rules were changed to a four- Life.” ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, year limit last year. Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers The common consensus is that von Furstenberg is completed, the contenders will remain outside Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and could bring a high glamour quotient to the CFDA, to give the board a chance to discuss them. Each C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior as well as some of the most powerful connections board member, including von Furstenberg and Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance in fashion, entertainment and the international jet Abboud, will vote in a secret ballot. Kolb and CFDA Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. set, while Abboud, whose profi le has risen as a fre- attorney Jack Hassid will tabulate the votes, and Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable quent on-air visitor to the “Imus in the Morning” should there be a 13-13 tie, there will be re-votes Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS radio and cable show, is considered to be not only until a winner is determined. Once that has been CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, driven, but available, since he has little involve- achieved, Herman will announce his successor. ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four ment in his men’s wear business. Key members of the fashion industry have very weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. The next CFDA president will not just be a clear ideas as to the qualities they would like the Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. fi gurehead, but will also work in tandem with ex- next president to possess. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, ecutive director Steven Kolb on developing funds, Reed Krakoff, president and executive creative and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions scholarship programs, charitable endeavors and the director of Coach and a CFDA board member, said and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make recently launched anti-piracy initiative. The winner the president should be “someone who can be a our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would will also have a mandate to galvanize America’s public fi gure and really embrace a vision for the interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise fashion community and funnel the disparate voices CFDA, and galvanize the industry around the or- us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- — and egos — into one cohesive message. ganization. It has to be a powerful fi gure, passion- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- The two will certainly have their moment to ate, respected and admired. [We need] someone ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, shine today. Herman is expected to run the board who has experience in the industry, and can pick OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED meeting, which will start by ratifying 19 new CFDA up the phone and work on the important issues.” members. Following that process, Herman will Cynthia Rowley said, “The new CFDA presi- MONDAY: Project Show and Pool Trade Show 11, New invite von Furstenberg and Abboud to each make dent should be a mix of Eleanor Lambert and Kofi York (through Wednesday). their case to the board for 10 minutes, during Annan — the perfect combination of charisma and which the competitor will leave the room. Once this diplomacy.” TUESDAY: Trend Selection, New York (through Wed- nesday). The U.S. Labor Department releases the Producer Banca Intesa Said Closing In on Prada Stake Price Index for June. WEDNESDAY: International Fashion Fair, Tokyo MILAN — Prada is about to get a new shareholder. (through Friday). A well-placed source said that Banca Intesa, Prada’s lead banker, is about to buy a 5 percent Vietnam Fashion Fair 2006, Ho Chi Minh City stake in the fashion company in a development that would give Prada an enterprise value of 2.75 (through July 24). billion euros ($3.49 billion). A Prada spokesman declined to comment. The Labor Department releases the Consumer Price Under the terms of the agreement, Banca Intesa would provide 300 million euros ($381 million): Index for June. 200 million euros ($254 million) that will be in the form of a loan to Prada Holding NV parent ITMD VF Corp. reports second-quarter sales and earnings. Investments, and 100 million euros ($127 million) that Intesa will invest via a capital increase. Financial sources have said that Prada and its bankers are aiming to take the company public THURSDAY: Beijing International Jewelry Fair (through in a couple of years, fi nally executing Prada’s long-held and oft-postponed goal of listing on the Sunday). stock market. Charlotte Russe Holding reports third-quarter sales Prada may have another fi nancial commitment coming up. Private fund Equinox, which bought and earnings. 55 percent of shoemaker Church’s from Prada in 2003, has an option to sell control of the company Oakley Inc. reports second-quarter sales and earnings. back to Prada. — Amanda Kaiser COMING THIS WEEK SUNDAY: Brussels Fashion Fairs (through July 24). CPD, Düsseldorf (through July 25).

/ZY_ 8T^^ _SP 2PX  5PbPW]d Generate More Revenue With 4YO`^_]dÀ^ 7L]RP^_ 5ZM 1LT] 100% financing for your In Brief Purchase Orders ● GAP EXEC MOVE: John Ermatinger will become president of 1]TOLd 5`Wd # Jacob K. Javits Convention Center Gap Japan K.K. in August, responsible for the Gap and Banana Target all size customers Republic stores in Japan. He will be based in Tokyo and will Start-ups okay report to Gap Inc. president and chief executive Paul Pressler. 1Z] XZ]P TYQZ]XL_TZY% Ermatinger was Nike International’s general manager of Asia bbbNL]PP]QLT]RTLPO` CALL US TODAY Pacifi c apparel, overseeing apparel for Australia, New Zealand, Southeast Asia, India, Hong Kong, Taiwan, China, Korea and :] NLWW # "  Pc_  Ashford Finance Japan. Before Nike, he spent 26 years at Levi Strauss & Co., ;]TXP >[ZY^Z]% ?SP A9@ 5PbPW]d 2]Z`[ (888) 532-9036 including a stint as president of Levi’s Strauss Americas. AM 4 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006 WWD.COM

Miuccia Prada and Painted Ladies Courtney Love in Prada. The Hollywood social scene has been rather sleepy so far this summer, but on Thursday night, Prada shook things up by pulling in an eclectic crowd for the West Coast opening of its “Waist Down” exhibit at the Rodeo Drive boutique. “The shirt, it’s good, no?” Dustin Hoffman jokingly asked L.A. legendary doyenne Dani Janssen of his snug brown button-down. Upstairs, where the lights were dimmer and the music louder, Monet Mazur, Taryn Manning and Amanda Peet made the rounds while LL Cool J wondered, “Who are all these people?” Miuccia Prada glided through the crowd with artist Francesco Vezzoli, who stuck by her side all night. But some, like Kirsten Dunst, skipped the exhibit altogether and just arrived early to Bar Marmont for the not- so-secret after party. At one end of the packed room Lindsay Lohan cuddled in a booth with her man-of-the-moment, Harry Morton, while at the other, Paris Hilton smooched with her ex, Stavros Niarchos. Heather Graham danced with Malcolm Gladwell, and Penélope Cruz chatted with Joaquin Phoenix until nearly 2 a.m. Back in New York, Allure editor in chief Linda Wells feted Kate Hudson at the as-yet-unfi nished Gramercy Park Hotel on Wednesday. Guests such as Liv Tyler, Jimmy Fallon, , Jake Paltrow and the hotel’s developer, Ian Schrager, gathered at the renovated landmark, which reopens Aug. 8, to dine on lamb, halibut and watermelon salad under masterworks by Pablo Picasso, Andy Warhol and Cy Twombly. Hudson, in town to promote her new movie, “You, Me and Dupree” — about a third wheel, played by Owen Wilson, who moves in with a pair of newlyweds — recalled a few of her own challenging houseguests. “Some of my husband’s friends think that nudity is very amusing,” she said. “It’s funny to me, too. But they think it’s much funnier than I do.” “It’s different with guys,” agreed Tyler. Uptown at the Neue Galerie, a rather glitzy celebrity was being toasted: Adele Bloch-Bauer, in the form of a portrait by Gustav Klimt acquired last month by Ronald Lauder for $135 Jimmy Fallon and Amber million. Even Lou Reed stood in line to pay his respects to the Kate Hudson Valletta gilded lady, who, despite the presence of social luminaries in Prada such as Samantha Boardman, Eva Lorenzotti and Aerin and at the Jane Lauder, was by far the most talked-about woman in the Prada room. Barbara Wilhelm had seen the masterpiece before in store. her hometown of Vienna, but came to take another peek. “It’s different seeing it in a small room instead of hanging in the big gallery,” she concluded, before heading down to Gucci’s Madison Avenue boutique for the house’s 85th anniversary party. There, several of the art world’s most fashionable ladies were shopping to stock their closets and support the Dia Art Foundation. “I’m going to fi nd a dress,” said Thelma Golden determinedly, as she blazed through the store. Needless to say, Dia’s chairwoman, Jaime King in Toni Nathalie de Gunzburg, was pleased with the Maticevski at the turnout, which also included Lisa Airan and Prada store. Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos. “Art is becoming fashion,” de Gunzburg reasoned. “Fifty years ago, if you had money, but no art on your walls, it was OK. Today, if you have money and no art, you are a stupid person. It’s a ticket into the social world.” Yvonne Force Villareal interrupted her to explain her own shopping rules: “My policy is, you buy art, you don’t buy jewelry and you borrow clothes.”

Nearby, at the Central Park Boathouse, the Young Friends of STEVE EICHNER BY NI/KWIATKOWSKI Save Venice were hosting a New York version of La Festa del Redentore, a traditional Venetian summer holiday. Co-chairs Adelina Wong Ettelson and Olivia Chantecaille wrangled a range of junior-set types, among them Tinsley and Topper Mortimer and Lulu Molly Sims de Kwiatkowski to raise funds to restore the Doge’s private chapel and Eva in the Palazzo Ducale. Mendes, A drizzle earlier in the evening meant that most of the guests both in stayed indoors, but a gondolier was happy to take adventurous Prada, at revelers for a spin around the park’s lake. De Kwiatkowski, for one, the Prada was not to be deterred. “It was great,” she said after her tour. “I liked store. the fog and the Italian singing. It was very ‘Wuthering Heights.’”

The gondolier, Andreas, gives Alfredo Gilardini and Lulu de Kwiatkowski a ride.

Jane Lisa Lauder in Liv Airan in Prada. Tyler Gucci. PRADA PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA; LAUDER BY ZACK SECKLER; TYLER AND FALLON/HUDSON BY MARK VONHOLDEN/DMIPHOTO; AIRAN AND GILLARDI MARK VONHOLDEN/DMIPHOTO; AIRAN BY SARDELLA; ZACK SECKLER; TYLER AND FALLON/HUDSON BY LAUDER DONATO PHOTOS BY PRADA WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006 5 WWD.COM Dolce & Gabbana’s Long-Term China Plan By Lisa Movius Compared with many of its competi- tors, which had maintained footholds in BEIJING — Dolce & Gabbana, the latest Hong Kong for decades before nudging designer brand to discover the possibili- into the mainland, Dolce & Gabbana is ties of China, is being patient about ex- also a relative newcomer to Hong Kong. pansion there. The brand opened its fi rst shop there last “For our brands, China is more an op- year, in Alexandra House on Chater Road, portunity than a threat,” Domenico Dolce but will open a second, 6,000-square-foot said via e-mail. “In the midterm, China store in early October on Canton Road. A will represent for us a very interesting 12,000- to 20,000-square-foot regional of- and developing market; so far, it’s still fi ce, with as many as 35 staffers handling small, if compared to other countries sales, marketing, shipping and adminis- where we have been present for many tration, is in the works for Hong Kong. In years, but it has a great potential.” Taiwan, Dolce & Gabbana’s one Taipei Although most fashion brands are boutique, also opened last year, will be bursting into the Chinese market, unroll- joined by another four by spring or sum- ing ambitious plans, Dolce & Gabbana is mer, and the company will expand into opting for a cautious approach. The com- Macao by 2008. pany opened its second directly owned Gonzalez forecast that the company’s mainland store in Beijing’s Peninsula China sales will grow by a factor of fi ve Palace Hotel in June, and is doing a soft over the next three years. By 2008, the launch of a Shanghai fl agship this month. company also plans to launch Dolce & “Our biggest challenge here has been Gabbana in Guangzhou and Shenzhen, ‘Don’t crack under pressure,’ because open second outlets in both Beijing and China so far has been too easy for us,” Shanghai and start selling the D&G label, said Michel Gonzalez, Dolce & Gabbana’s The new store which will go broader into smaller cities. Asia Pacifi c managing director. “We could in Beijing. Dolce & Gabbana executives insist their open 10 stores right away, but we don’t LISA MOVIUS PHOTO BY company’s small presence on the mainland want to. We want to wait until we can do it Shanghainese on business trips constitute Dolce & Gabbana franchise, but was thor- has not affected the brand’s image here. right, and keep to our own terms for loca- the remainder. Unlike most luxury sales oughly remodeled after coming under di- “With regards to the brand aware- tion, timing and service and management. in Hangzhou, tourists and businesspeople rect company control. Gonzalez said the ness, it will for sure know an incredible China is very hungry at the moment, but if from the rest of Zhejiang province are company expects the Beijing store to do rise after the next opening,” predicted you want to keep growing for the next 25 negligible. Men’s and women’s wear con- double the sales of Hangzhou, despite its Domenico Dolce. “Dolce & Gabbana is al- years, not the next three years, you must tribute equally to overall sales, he said, smaller size and basement location, be- ready well known among the Chinese VIPs go slow and remain superprestigious and but “men buy deeper; they are fewer cus- cause of Beijing’s greater size, affl uence and celebrities, but we plan to reach a high quality.” tomers but bigger buyers and will come and enthusiasm for spending. wider — though always top-class — target The company opened its fi rst direct- once a year and stock up. Women are Dolce & Gabbana’s Shanghai fl agship through these strategic new windows.” ly owned China store in April 2005 in more fl irty, like to try more things on and at Bund Six is slated for a soft opening on The Asian market remains a small one Hangzhou, a fl ourishing city of six mil- come more regularly.” July 25, with a formal launch in September. for Dolce & Gabbana, representing less lion people just south of Shanghai, and While casualwear dominates, Dolce & The Gothic Twenties brownstone, painted than 10 percent of the company’s busi- the capital of the wealthy Zhejiang prov- Gabbana’s customers in Hangzhou tend canary yellow in defi ance of local pres- ness. Of that amount, 70 percent is in ince. “Hangzhou has been a surprise for to buy a mixture of products. “They come ervation laws and the Bund’s traditional Japan and South Korea, with 42 and 14 us,” Gonzalez said. “It gave us a good trial for the jeans, but then we sell other things aesthetic, will house an 8,000-square-foot stores there, respectively. “It should be 50 in China…and allowed us to test for the with them, and they leave with quite dif- store, 2,150 square feet of back-offi ce area, percent, but that’s not the case, because mechanics and procedures, doing import- ferent items than what they came in for.” an offi ce section for 10 staffers and a mar- we only just began positioning the rest export. And we wanted to do so while Of the company’s Hangzhou clientele, tini bar. The company is deciding whether one-and-a-half years ago,” Gonzalez said. keeping a low profi le. But the business Gonzalez added: “Surprisingly, in China the bar will be self-managed or done with The company’s plans are to use China as turned out to be a fantastic experience, we don’t see that many fashion victim a partner. a beachhead for expansion into other de- is doing well and has the highest sales in customers. Most want what’s exclusive “In terms of furbishing and general lay- veloping markets in Asia, and for the region the mall. Therefore, Hangzhou makes us over what’s trendy, and instead of the logo out, there will be a consistency between to eventually represent 25 percent of sales. a lot more confi dent.” part of the collection they are going for the new Chinese shops and all the other “China and Asia in general represent Gonzalez explained that the customer the elaborate look. People here are a lot Dolce & Gabbana shops in the world, in- two very important markets for the com- demographic at the Hangzhou store has more daring than even in Europe, they cluding Hangzhou: our style, our concepts pany,” Gabbana said. “We believe that reflected global trends for the brand: want people to notice them. It’s a way to and our traditional mix of Mediterranean these markets have a notable amount “Women aged 30 to 35 on up, affl uent improve and frame their personality.” luxury and design will be fully refl ected by of unexploited potential for our brands, and very fashion-conscious.” Of those, The 2,690-square-foot Beijing shop oc- both the Beijing and the Shanghai stores,” so we will continue to invest heavily in local Hangzhounese are 90 percent, and cupies the same location as a previous Stefano Gabbana explained in an e-mail. these regions.”

Daily News late last week The Manhattan Sailing sparked renewed interest in School in North Cove Marina, the fate of gossip columnist which is sponsored by Condé MEMO PAD Lloyd Grove. The chart, which Nast, parent of WWD, is showed a reorganized features adding more boats to its SPOTTING THE FAKE: The man who has department, did not allot fl eet. Each boat at the Sailing been impersonating Jane fashion director a place for Grove to sit. School fl ies the fl ag of a Kusum Lynn and various other Condé Nast Employees believed this might magazine in the Condé Nast employees has been found! Or, at least a fi nally signal the end of Grove’s stable, and during weekly photo of him has been located on the Web. time at the paper. However, as regattas, the boats race WWD was alerted to an image on Grove put it Friday, “This is not against each other, pitting Patrickmcmullan.com on Friday by a tea leaf worth reading.” Vanity Fair against, say, Bon someone who has had multiple run-ins Managing editor of Appetit. But one fl ag that “with the little creep.” The picture shows features Orla Healy said, “I fl ew above a boat last year a short-in-stature, dark-skinned man am physically reorganizing disappeared this season. “I identifi ed as “Prianta Silva,” posing with a the features department. It’s just a little am not sure what happened to the Cargo blonde woman captioned “Christina Wiltsee.” housekeeping that affects the features fl ag,” said the harbor’s commodore, Michael “He’s very crafty,” said the source. and art departments. It has nothing to do Fortenbaugh. “At end of every season, fl ags “He’ll use an e-mail that ends in with Lloyd.” are looking a bit worn, so it is important condenastonline.com, so he must have While George Rush and Joanna Molloy that we dispose of them and only fl y bright registered that domain. He’s also been and their gossip pod will be moving, Grove, new fl ags every spring.” claiming to be a producer from ‘Crash.’ it seems, will remain at his current desk, Fortenbaugh added, “The boats are all There’s a real company called Red Wagon on the edge of the features department doing great this year. We have expanded Entertainment, and he often says he’s near the business section. “I am an our docks and the number of boats at from Red Wagon Films.” island of tranquility,” he said, happy to be North Cove. We have added more fl ags, He has also, according to another staying put. “I don’t even have to clean and two more boats will also join our North caller, been attending charity benefi ts as up. My messy desk isn’t encroaching Cove fl eet later this month.” Vogue senior editor of special projects on anything.” Grove, as usual, declined Clearly it’s a busy time for Fortenbaugh, Alexandra Kotur. MCMULLAN/PMC PATRICK PHOTO BY to comment on his ongoing contract who was in Monaco earlier in the summer Perhaps someone should notify the The Condé Nast impersonator and friend. negotiations, saying only, “I am ecstatic to meet with Prince Albert Grimaldi about authorities. his own check. And then I presume they that whatever happens, I might outlast the creating a Monaco-to-New York race. And “He’s linked his name to a variety of bounce.” — Sara James media writers at WWD.” — Sara James then there’s the occasional celebrity to Vogue editors, including Alexandra,’’ said entertain at North Cove. “Stone Phillips of a Vogue spokesman. “As I understand it, GROVE’S ROOTS: A copy of a new seating CARGO MISSING: It’s like the magazine never Dateline was down sailing on Friday with his when he goes to those events, he writes chart that circulated at the New York even existed. nephew Ben,” he said. — S.J. 6 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006

Foshan Nanhai’s polyamide and elastane bikini.

PrintsLYON, France — While the shapes are sleek andof simple, the newest Tides bikinis surfacing at the Lyon Mode City PrintsLYON, France — While the shapes are sleek andof simple, the newest Tides bikinis surfacing at the Lyon Mode City fair come in patterns bursting with color: pretty paisleys, bold geometrics and even playful pineapples. WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006 7 WWD.COM

Cia Maritima’s beaded polyamide and elastane bikini.

Jenna de Rosnay’s polyamide and elastane bikini.

Marlies Dekkers’ polyamide and elastane bikini.

Huit’s polyamide and elastane bikini. PHOTOS BY PATRICK KATZMAN; MODEL: GAELLE H./ELITE PARIS; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MIKEY/B-AGENCY PARIS; STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER STYLED BY MIKEY/B-AGENCY PARIS; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MODEL: GAELLE H./ELITE PARIS; KATZMAN; PATRICK PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006 WWD.COM Lyon Preview

Elise Aucouturier’s cotton gauze and polyester lace camisole La Vie en Rose and panties. LYON, France — From barely there pale tones to bright sherbet shades, pink is the color of choice for many designers at this season’s Lyon Mode City fair. Tiny bows, lace and crochet details give the looks extra-girly touches.

Nina Ricci’s polyester and polyamide bra and panties with lace trim.

Sabrina Nadal’s silk satin slip with lace trim.

Guia La Bruna’s cotton slip. PHOTOS BY PATRICK KATZMAN; MODEL: GAELLE H./ELITE PARIS; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MIKEY/B-AGENCY PARIS; STYLED BY LAURENT FOLCHER STYLED BY MIKEY/B-AGENCY PARIS; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MODEL: GAELLE H./ELITE PARIS; KATZMAN; PATRICK PHOTOS BY

10 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006 WWD.COM Lyon Preview Mode City Show Gets in the Mood

By Katya Foreman PARIS — Well-being and the feel-good factor will be the theme of the next edition of Lyon Mode City, running Sept. 2-4. “Lyon is all about summer fare and has a big swimwear presence, so we decided to channel an uplifting theme that’s also suited to sports and the outdoors,” said Chantal Malingrey, executive director of show producer Eurovet’s lingerie division. Air- and water-based treats, such as giant fans and refreshing mist sprays, will be on hand to get visitors in the mood. The beachwear section will feature themed areas for easy orientation: Win Dream for sportswear, Diva Nautic for high-end brands and Beach Mania for fashion brands. Lyon is all about summer fare and has a big swimwear“ presence, so we decided to channel an uplifting theme. ” — Chantal Malingrey, Eurovet

A separate “minimarket” will host beachwear accessories, resortwear and chil- dren’s lines, while the young designer-oriented Spicy Garden will sprout a separate beachwear area. Diverse well-being-related topics will be treated in the salon’s conference center, A rendering of the Interfi lière trend forum. such as the effects of the sun and the development of UV-related intelligent textiles, merchandising trends and comfort issues for big sizes. Emerging brands will also be national markets, which takes a lot of planning, as well as extra costs.” arranged by continent. The innerwear and beachwear forum, called Spray, will group trends into water With a number of traditional lingerie brands such as Chantelle, Aubade, Triumph, themes: Spray for body and spawear, Boiling Point for traditional brands, Geyser for Princesse Tam Tam and Simone Pérèle deciding not to exhibit at this year’s show, luxury brands and Soda for young brands. exhibitor levels for swim and innerwear brands are slightly lower than last year, with The Interfi lière textiles section has been switched from hall seven to hall four, the number of exhibitors at the companion Interfi lière show staying about the same. with 31 newcomers, including Nagel & Hermann from Austria, and Keller AG, which Innerwear newcomers include Myla, Marlies Dekkers, Fruit of the Loom, Les specializes in fi re-resistant weaves. Maçons Danseurs and Frankie Morello. For beachwear, Vivienne Westwood, Rosa The forum’s trend library, housed in a circus tent, will feature exhibitors’ newest Cha, Coco Doce, Puket, New Age and Aqua are some of the new names signed up. textile swatches, showing how they lend themselves to innerwear. The Hi-Tech section “Several factors, such as the troubled European market, contribute to the fact that will showcase cutting-edge machinery, as well as fi bers and threads. certain brands won’t be showing this time; however, it’s also largely due to the restruc- But well-being is also about having fun, so stands will be hosting happy hours from turing of a lot of these fi rms,” Malingrey said. “It’s a time of mutation for European 5-7 p.m. each day. Another opportunity to mingle will be the summer party on Sept. 2, brands. A lot of them are building independent distribution channels to enter inter- during which fi estas will take place on four themed beaches. Pushing the Feel-Good Factor PARIS — An all-encompassing handle for innerwear that is intended to make customers feel good — well-being — is among the industry’s fastest-growing trends and categories. Spawned by the growth of health spas and meditation-oriented practices such as yoga, the term is an umbrella for a rising number of brands that are making a priority of natural fabrics and comfort- oriented, nurturing elements in their designs. It also spills over to merchandising and customer service. “Well-being is a modern concept that goes with the look and feel of a collection down to its packaging and service — it’s about anything that’s geared to making a customer feel good,” said Chantal Malingrey, executive director of trade show producer Eurovet’s lingerie division. A growing number of textile manufacturers are peddling products geared to the trend. “After years of experimentation, fi rms are delivering well-being- oriented fabrics, such as micro-encapsulated textiles injected with aloe vera, say, or essential oils,” said Anne-Lise Thauvin, exhibition manager for Eurovet’s Interfi lière section. Thauvin noted a rise in feather-light, ultrasoft fabrics, as well as A part of us is always close to you eco-friendly textiles. “We’ve noted a rising trend for customers overlooking fashion brands for innerwear made from supersoft cottons with elegant fi n- ishes that are, above all, comfortable,” said Lilia Bondarchuk, chief brand manager for Russian chain stores Wild Orchid and Bustier. Bondarchuk cited Italy’s Cotton Club, which delivers fashionable but snug innerwear. Veronique Fremont, owner of Parisian lingerie boutique Emilia Cosi, said women are demanding all-silk or cot- ton pieces for “cocooning” at home that work as comfortable, but elegant basics. Come Visit Us At: Popular brands include Italian label Verde Veronica’s cotton and linen nightshirts tricked with lace, and elegant basics by Cotton Club Interfilière - Lyon, France and Armani, Fremont said. Belgian lingerie designer Carine Gilson, who opened a Paris bou- Sept. 2-4, 2006 tique in June, believes well-being is also linked to a return to luxury. Gilson’s bras, for example, come entirely covered in silk, and her Stand Hall 2, Stand B52 labels are sewn into garments to avoid irritation. French buyer Cathy Abruzzo launched her well-being innerwear col- lection, Peau Ethique, or Ethical Skin, for adults and infants in 2004. Certain lines, like British brand Aloe and New York loungewear brand Skin, have hit the spa circuit.

® “My pieces work particularly well in health resorts,” said Skin’s de- signer, Susan Beischel, whose pieces are made from 100 percent pima cotton. “Spa clients like to wear something that makes them feel pam- pered, like their environment. The smallest details in the collection are created to support emotional and physical well-being.” Headquarters Nilit Ltd. Maurizio Levi Rd. P.O.Box 276 Ramat Gabriel, Migdal Haemek, 23102 Israel. Tel: +972-4-654-4634 Laurence Dekowski, director of Le Bon Marché’s lingerie depart- Fax: +972-4-654-4636, e-mail: [email protected], www.nilit.com ment in Paris, said best-selling brands include well-being lines in- Nilit America Corp. 6903 International Drive, Greensboro, NC 27409 USA, Tel: +1 336 605 1962 , Fax: +1 336 605 1951, E-mail: [email protected] spired by yoga, dance and gymwear. — K.F.

%NERGYATTHERIGHTTIME INTHEGOOD ! ߝ™^˔ajËW‰ÍßË &O FË™ÍjÁxː‰nÁj / ER 7INT (ALL  )NTERlLIÞRE   EXHIBITORS "%!#(7%!2   !(& FROMCOUNTRIES  - $&)" INWHICHNEW   EXHIBITIORS )%%! ' %$&('*&$!!( $#'  ''$& ' 4HE'ENERAL&/25-ISBURSTINGWITHINSIDER INFORMATION SURPRISES SEDUCTIVEAPPEAL ANDINSPIRATION4RENDS MINICONFERENCES (ALL (ALL   EXHIBITIONSx!HIGHLYORIGINALSHOWCASETO   PROMOTEOUREXHIBITORSCREATIVEmAIR ,).'%2)%

.%7 30/4,)'(4/. s3PORTlTNESSSECTORs"EACHWEARWITHA # ('& ' PREVIEWOFCOLLECTIONSFOR3UMMER &%( & ' $) s(OMEWEARs&INISHINGTREATMENTS & #(' 4HE&!"2)#,)"2!29HIGHLIGHTSTHERESEARCH   WORKCARRIEDOUTBYOURFABRICSPECIALISTS PUTTINGTHEEMPHASISONINNOVATIONWITH EXCLUSIVESAMPLES    

WWWLYONMODECITYCOM WWWINTERFILIERECOM 30%!+%23#/2.%2   !LAID BACKAREADEDICATEDTOINFORMATION ANDKNOWLEDGE WHEREEXPERTSSHARETHEIR EXPERIENCE RESEARCHANDEXPERTISEWITHVARIED THEMES&INISHINGTREATMENTSs,IGHTWEIGHT (ALL s.ATURALlBERSs3PORTFABRICS   "&$ & '  )MPROVEYOURUNDERSTANDING TOSTAYAHEAD 0REPAREYOURSTAY !PROGRAMMEOFCONFERENCESONAVARIETY 

0RE REGISTERON !NHOTEL !PLANE !TRAIN !RESTAURANT OFISSUESTAKENDIRECTLYFROMCURRENTTEXTILE DEVELOPMENTS !TELEPHONELINEISALREADYAVAILABLETOASSIST "EINGUP TO DATEWITHDEVELOPMENTSISCRUCIAL %NHANCETHE YOUINPREPARINGFORYOURTRIPTO,YONAND ANDONEOFTHEKEYADVANTAGESOF,YON MODECITY VISITINGTHESHOWS AND)NTERlLIÞREISTHERICHVARIETYOFINFORMATION PLEASURE FACTOR  PHONESCHARGES AVAILABLEINASINGLEPLACE h(APPY(OURSv"RANDSANDFABRICSPEC TO&RANCE (OWTOBETTERSELLINGUSINGEMOTIONALAND INVITEYOUTOTHEIRSTANDSDAILYDAYFROM 5PDATEDINREALTIME OURWEBSITESPROVIDE SENSORIALTOOLS PMTOPMINAFUNATMOSPHERE ALLTHEINFORMATIONYOUREQUIRE 4HEBENElTSANDHARMFULEFFECTSOFTHESUN LAID BACKTUNES 0RETTY SEXYANDCOMFORTABLETHEPLUSSIZES TRILOGY 3POTLIGHTONEMERGINGBRANDSFROMEACH /N3ATURDAY3EPTEMBERNDFROM CONTINENT AT%UREXPO ,YON MODECITYAND)NTERlL 4EXTILEINNOVATIONSANDCREATIONS GIVEBRANDSANDFABRICSPECIALISTSAN #ONFERENCESAREMOREDETAILEDON OPPORTUNITYTOMEETTHEIRCUSTOMERSTO WWWLYONMODECITYCOMWWWINTERlLIERECOM UNIQUEANDHIGHLYMEMORABLEEVENT U

INVITATIONONLYEXCLTAXINCLTAX - DETAILEDINFORMATIONON   DPLACE2ENDEZ VOUS  3EPTEMBERIN,YON !WORLDWIDELEADERINTHE,INGERIEAND"EACHWEARINDUSTRY ORALLTHELATESTTRENDSANDFASHIONDEVELOPMENTS /VERVIEWOFSECTOR SPECIlCECONOMICINFORMATION

ER 3UMM  ,YON MODECITY %VERYONEWILLBETHEREFROMTHEHOTTEST       YOUNGDESIGNERSTOMAJORINTERNATIONALGROUPS  $)#' #&'   " # #$!!( $#' ,INGERIEBRANDS

    "EACHWEARBRANDS &"( $+*&   ' ' $#$!!( $#' FROMCOUNTRIESINWHICH NEWBRANDS #,'' $# #&,'$!!( $#' 4HE,INGERIE"EACHWEAR&/25- !SHOWSDYNAMICSHOWCASEOFTENDENCIES4HE   (*&# $"*& THEATRALPRODUCTDISPLAYSHOWSHOWTOADDATOUCH OFDRAMATORETAILOUTLETS 02!#4)#!,!.$#,%6%2)$%!3 .%7 OFMERCHANDISING )#( $#&"#(' ' #&!!'  !SEVERALLANGUAGES!5$)/ '5)$%TOUR   HELPINGYOUUNDERSTANDTHEVERYESSENCEOFTHE     FORUMTRANSLATEDIN&RENCH %NGLISH )TALIAN $)#' #&' 3PANISH 2USSIAN#HINESE  ,INGERIE"EACHWEAR&ASHION3(/73 #REATIVECOLLECTIONSBROUGHTTOLIFE   (ALL ,).'%2)%  "%!#(7%!2 xxx&ASHIONSHOWSSCHEDULExxx 3!452$!93%04 35.$!93%04 -/.$!93%04 !- !- ,).'%2)% "%!#(7%!2 ,).'%2)% +$# $%' !- )' #''#(& !- !- ,).'%2)% "%!#(7%!2   #ONTACT 0- "%!#(7%!2 02/-/3!,/.353! 0- 0- 4EL   0- ,).'%2)% "%!#(7%!2 % MAILUSA PROMOSALONSCOM 0- 0- "%!#(7%!2 0- "%!#(7%!2 0- ,).'%2)%

   CIALISTS -/*$*%!$%/),*),'%/)%04)+4%!/1/!$%0(-40        M 6!*-,,1%/,!1)-,!*$%*!),'%/)%!/)0 EWITH 6,1%/&)*)8/%      65-,+-$%#)15 ()'(*50%*%#1)3%0(-4/--+ -&),1%/,!1)-,!*"/!,$0    

           PM !"/)#0&-/),1)+!1%0&!0()-,   $$$#  ! "! IÞRE      ./%01)')-20&!0()-,0(-4&%!12/),' 

  ! "        OA 2/-.%!,!,$0)!,#/%!1)-,0 PON ()*(%(  '   & -ORE  % $(&$( %$"'"$()%&! $ -2/#-,1!#1),/!,#%   $( #('$ )& 6     6+!)*0(!,'(!)+**!&%$%/!1)-,#-+

)))' $  #%" $& %#    14 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006

Accessories Report Lambertson Truex in Deal With Samsonite

Continued from page one Clockwise: John Truex, bag, while shoes range from $275 to $595. Men’s bags with stints at fi rms such as Bergdorf Goodman, Gucci, Richard Lambertson and shoes range from $395 to $550. The company also ck and Carlos Falchi, are now co-creative and Marcello Bottoli. has a made-to-order business through which, starting at directors. They will focus on design and on the look of $3,500 at retail, a customer can choose any bag silhou- their yet-to-be-opened stores. The pair had been co- ette in any color, with their choice of hardware, while chief executive offi cers. their name gets monogrammed inside. “The problem is not where to grow, but where do we “It’s pretty clear that Lambertson Truex is a good start,” Samsonite president and ceo Marcello Bottoli brand and has done a good job without a lot of capital,” said. “The three of us have a very clear [idea] in mind of said Andrew Jassin, managing director of the Jassin what we want to do with the company. We’ve been fl irt- O’Rourke Group, a consulting fi rm here. “They’re in the ing until now, and now we’re married. But we’re not in travel luxury business, which is limited in that it’s not a the business of trying to do things quick. We want to do fashion business. By [Samsonite] investing in other com- it right. When you get a beautiful jewel, you have to stop panies they get those benefi ts. These partnerships are and decide what to do with it.” very valuable to fi nance the opening of stores, the open-

Lambertson Truex is known for its high-end bags and MITRA ROBERT BY ERICKSON. PORTRAIT KYLE PHOTOS BY ing of in-store boutiques and to promote and advertise shoes done in rich leathers and exotic skins like alliga- the brands properly.” tor and karung. It has been an object of desire for fi rms Ron Frasch, vice chairman and chief merchant of seeking to invest in or acquire it. Saks Fifth Avenue, said, “They brought a great updated Financial terms were not disclosed, although in an classic to our store. We do very much [business] with interview at the fi rm’s whitewashed showroom and them and are anxious to fi nd ways to enhance the busi- headquarters on West 17th Street here, ness. The relationship with Samsonite will be very Bottoli said the relationship between his positive.” London-based company and Lambertson Bloomingdale’s picked up the brand last year for six Truex is a partnership, not an acquisition. of its stores for women and fi ve for men, in tandem with Industry sources estimated Lambertson its recent push for luxury accessories. Truex’s annual sales at $50 million. “Lambertson Truex is a wonderful, upscale busi- The 96-year-old Samsonite has sales ness,” said Michael Gould, chairman and ceo of of about $2 billion at retail. Licenses, Bloomingdale’s. “The business has had strong growth including Lacoste and Timberland, bring over the past year. We look forward to the growth of this in another $1 billion. resource as we build our luxury accessory business.” With the new partnership, the hunt is The brand is also sold in 85 specialty doors world- already on for a ceo, and the fi rm is creat- wide, including Stanley Korshak in Dallas, Mitchell’s of ing its fi rst board of directors, which will Westport in Connecticut and Ikram in Chicago. include Bottoli, Lambertson, Truex, two “They’re not boring; they’re classic with an edge,” Samsonite executives and a ceo. Lambertson A slingback from resort. said Ikram Goldman, owner of Ikram. “They’re always Truex president Michele Ateyeh will serve in reworking classic pieces into what we’re doing today. It a consulting role. fi ts into today’s fashion moment.” Bottoli said the company may launch stores. They also will begin to make personal Samsonite has been on a roll of late. In 2005, the more than one store in New York, as well as appearances to boost their profi les and to put fi rm named former Tanner Krolle designer Quentin units in major U.S. cities and international faces to the company name. Mackay as creative director. Last year, Mackay launched stores. Lambertson and Truex are person- “We’re excited to be focusing on designs, the fi rm’s Black Label line, a premium line of luggage ally working with an unidentifi ed archi- and to dive deeper into traveling and and accessories. The fi rst Samsonite Black Label store tectural fi rm to defi ne the concept of meeting with our clients again, and opens here next month, while locations in San Francisco the stores. The fi rm is looking for lo- making new ones,” Truex said. “Our and Boston are slated to launch in September. Stores cations and will open shops as soon goal [when we started] was to own a are also planned for Asia and Europe, with a total of as possible. luxury brand in America. 30 stores to open by year’s end. Lambertson Truex has a ro- You have Coach, which is Lambertson Truex evening bags. Samsonite has 180 namesake stores bust wholesale business of hardly luxury, and Judith in the U.S. and 104 internationally. women’s and men’s handbags, Leiber, but in the past This month, Samsonite an- shoes, gloves and small leather A classic Lambertson Truex bag 30 years there hasn’t nounced its latest designer collabo- goods, with stores like Bergdorf done in karung. been a luxury handbag ration with Alexander McQueen. Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Saks brand in America.” McQueen will develop a collec- Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdale’s being key distribu- Lambertson Truex has persevered in tion of travel bags, luggage and tors of the brand. the handbag market through the extreme accessories under the Samsonite The brand will aim for more wholesale saturation embellishment and logo-mania of the past Black Label brand. Bottoli added in domestic and international markets such as Asia, few years with its discreet bags in inventive that the fi rm is not actively seek- Europe, the Middle East and Russia. With its own stores shapes, lined in azure suede and compart- ing, but is considering buying into and expanded distribution, Lambertson and Truex will mentalized with multiple pockets for the other brands. try designing additional categories to fi rst test in their wearer’s convenience. In 2000, the founders Frederick Schmitt, vice president own stores and to possibly wholesale to retail outlets. were awarded the America Fashion Award for of The Sage Group, an investment “Retail is the future of true luxury bags,” Accessory Designer of the Year by the Council banking fi rm in Los Angeles, said, Lambertson said. “That’s the place to be a testing of Fashion Designers of America, as well as the “[Lambertson Truex is] one of the few ground for new product that we don’t have to depend Accessories Council Excellence ACE Award for Best accessory brands out there with cachet. on our retailers to promote for us. It’s also about the New Accessories Designer. It’s tougher on the accessory side to fi nd best level of customer service, although our retailers The company’s clutches are a mainstay among brands with recognition just in accessories. offer very high levels of service.” Manhattan socialites like Marjorie Raein, as well as The fact that they were able to put together a partner- Lambertson and Truex are also contemplating adver- celebrities such as Salma Hayek, Jennifer Lopez and ship is good for Samsonite, as, although Samsonite is tising, though there are no set plans. The pair will have Scarlett Johansson. Retail prices for the brand’s hand- recognized for quality, it’s not a luxury brand — it has a more time to focus on the aesthetics of the line and the bags run from $795 to $1,000 for an alligator overnight wider appeal.”

FASHION QUALITY ™ WATCHES

Licensing opportunities available • 7 West Accessories, Inc. • 389 Fifth Avenue, Suite 610 • New York, NY 10016 • 212-695-4002 • Email [email protected] • www.vernierwatches.com WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006 15 WWD.COM

MIRROR IMAGE: Cesare week at the Project show at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. Hendrix Paciotti has a new advertising died in 1970. campaign that is returning it to The collection will kick off with an assortment of bags and wallets, but FINDINGS its provocative past. other items like jewelry, belts and scarves may be added soon. The collection The campaign, produced is a collaboration between Janie Hendrix, Jimi Hendrix’s stepsister and the with New York advertising fi rm A&R Media and shot by Mario Sorrenti, features executor of his estate; designer Gina Alexander, and photographer Robert scantily dressed models on their backs, with their well-heeled feet raised M. Knight. in the air in front of a mirror. It launches this month in August issues of “Jimi has an array of fans of different ages and different interests that want publications like W, Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, Marie Claire and Interview. more than T-shirts,” said Janie Hendrix. “He was a fashion icon. And we are “Our idea for this campaign was to reinforce our previously strong sensual using his style to inspire the bags.” image, which in some markets could be a risk, but we feel confi dent to The collection, which is to hit stores this fall, will be divided into two price take that risk now more than ever, since we have been very successful with ranges. Wholesale prices for the juniors line, which uses synthetic materials coordinating it with style,” said Matteo Cecarini, Cesare Paciotti’s fi rst chief and features Sixties-inspired prints and images of Jimi Hendrix, will be $22 executive offi cer in North America, who plans to use the campaign to raise the to $48. That line is being targeted to Urban Outfi tters, music stores such as brand’s U.S. profi le. Virgin Records and music museums. The higher-priced line has a wholesale Cecarini said the Milan accessories fi rm, known for its pointed-dagger An image from Cesare range of $140 to $280 and is designed with fi ner materials and features Jimi logo and equally sharp stilettos, is upping its media buy here by 45 Paciotti’s fall campaign. Hendrix lyrics, images and drawings from his estate. It will percent compared with last fall. It will be the fi rm’s largest media buy in be targeted toward specialty boutiques. the U.S. The company spends $2.5 million worldwide on advertising. Last year, the U.S. market took 15 percent of that amount. This year it will be BLACK BEAUTY: Givenchy has come up about 22 percent. with a shimmering Art Deco-inspired “So far, the company has focused primarily on the European market,” said cocktail clutch, designed by Cecarini, who took on his role in January. “Now the U.S. will be a big priority.” Riccardo Tisci, for the second edition of its annual Black POMELLATO’S NEW CHIEF: Guglielmo Melegari was named chairman and Box series of limited-edition ceo of Pomellato USA, a new post for the upscale Italian jewelry fi rm. accessories. The clutch is The 42-year-old Melegari, who spent the last 10 years running Max Givenchy’s cocktail clutch. hand-embroidered with Mara USA, will handle Pomellato’s growth in North America and the snaking lines of fl at pink-gold Caribbean. Melegari’s appointment crowns a strong year for Pomellato in chains and is lined with ivory the U.S., where the fi rm saw a 28.2 percent sales increase in 2005. satin. The 200 bags, priced at $2,400 each and presented “Melegari’s entrance will allow us to make the quality jump that in a little black box, will be released at the end of the U.S. market requires,” said Francesco Minoli, chairman and October in Givenchy stores worldwide. ceo at Pomellato. Minoli added that Pomellato’s short-term strategy is to open its PRADA NAMING RIGHTS: When Miuccia Prada decided to fi rst store in New York by mid-October and to boost its current 15 call her top Miu Miu bag for fall the Coffer, little did she points-of-sale. know how appropriate the name would be. “We also want to implement our relationship with the jewelry stores In just over two weeks since it hit stores, the bag has and with the department stores that carry our product,” Minoli said. generated long waiting lists and already sits on the shoulders The brand’s medium-term growth is anchored on the openings of of such young actresses as Sienna Miller, Keira Knightley, Mischa about four new outposts on both the East and West Coasts. A Jimi Hendrix Barton, Kate Bosworth and Maggie Gyllenhaal. Keira In 2005, Pomellato’s consolidated sales rose 12.5 percent to Collection bag. Prada based the bag’s name on its inspiration: ancient coffers Knightley $125.5 million as net profi t jumped 55.8 percent to $16.1 million. and medieval saddlebags, as is evident from the matelassé workmanship carrying in the front, a padlock fastening with exposed bolts and large woven the THE LEGEND LIVES: Another celebrity will be putting his name on accessories, although this handles. The bag retails for between $1,135 and $1,263 and is available Coffer. time it will be from the beyond. The Jimi Hendrix Collection will be unveiled to buyers this in leather or suede.

Think big

with an eye for detail career totes 16 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006 WWD.COM Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE WWD COMPOSITE STOCK INDEX VS. S&P 500 Retailers 73.11 44.17 Abercrombie Abercrombie & &Fitch Fitch 13.6 63356 53.30 -1.81 33.89 18.05 AéropostaleAeropostale 19.7 67930 29.50 -2.18 36.15 19.45 American American Eagle Eagle 17.2 84403 34.16 -1.49 44.27 23.05 AnnAnn Taylor Taylor 28.8 65795 40.74 -2.91 30.09 13.05 BebeBebe 18.9 24726 14.45 -0.80 1.90 0.68 BlueflyBluefly - 6342 1.04 -0.04 S&P 500 34.14 15.55 Bon-TonBon-Ton 17.6 13372 20.41 -0.55 20.65 13.71 CachéCache 19.4 4367 16.54 -1.14 26.70 18.10 CatoCato 15.3 11320 23.19 -0.79 24.73 12.79 CharlotteCharlotte Russe Russe 97.4 15369 21.82 -1.19 15.18 9.69 CharmingCharming Shoppes Shoppes 12.3 40907 10.15 -0.78 49.40 23.04 Chico’sChico’s FAS FAS 21.8 134650 23.37 -1.53 67.70 33.22 Children’sChildren’s Place Place 21.6 33842 52.87 -4.23 32.67 23.89 CVSCVS 20.8 312904 31.68 1.22 32.46 20.38 DebDeb Shops Shops 13.3 2014 23.81 0.41 32.20 18.91 Dillard’sDillard’s 16.5 77929 29.18 -1.35 20.65 13.59 DollarDollar General General 13.4 160544 13.70 -0.79 28.09 10.75 DressDress Barn Barn 16.8 48628 23.61 -0.18 WWD COMPOSITE STOCK INDEX 47.86 25.50 eBayeBay 34.1 968168 25.58 -1.04 27.94 19.40 FamilyFamily Dollar Dollar 17.9 103084 21.75 -1.47 39.70 28.78 FederatedFederated 12.7 219341 33.75 -2.71 28.00 18.74 FootFoot Locker Locker 15.6 223981 26.53 1.69 22.19 15.90 GapGap 13.6 286759 16.36 -0.26 11.80 6.29 GottschalksGottschalks 28.0 715 7.03 0.11 47.25 19.10 GuessGuess 27.4 22046 40.45 -1.45 1.71 0.46 Harold’sHarold’s Stores Stores - 798 0.62 0.08 20.14 10.78 HotHot Topic Topic 33.6 38589 12.05 0.05 69.34 44.16 J.C.J.C. Penney Penney 15.7 127281 64.84 -3.67 60.09 42.78 Kohl’sKohl’s 21.7 164174 54.90 -3.78 28.48 18.81 LimitedLimited Brands Brands 13.9 94408 23.93 -1.35 35.25 6.72 MothersMothers Work Work 143.0 2141 30.76 -3.67 24.28 9.41 New New York York & &Co. Co. 12.8 24111 9.99 -0.35 42.90 30.41 NordstromNordstrom 16.0 116990 33.44 -3.51 27.99 17.11 PacificPacific Sunwear Sunwear 11.2 113180 17.87 -0.34 43.49 32.16 RegisRegis 15.8 21583 34.28 -1.25 18.00 8.95 RetailRetail Ventures Ventures - 23499 16.60 -0.97 31.04 22.34 RossRoss Stores Stores 17.3 54334 24.54 -1.10 24.64 15.04 SaksSaks 25.2 83554 15.47 -0.69 167.95 111.64 Sears Sears 21.5 110913 141.60 -11.20 WWD STOCK INDEX DIVES 4.7% 34.44 23.68 StageStage Stores Stores 14.7 10209 30.09 -3.06 24.60 13.04 SteinStein Mart Mart 14.1 9009 13.28 -1.30 NEW YORK — A surge in oil prices and the growing confl ict in the Middle East contributed to a chill in trading 19.10 13.01 SymsSyms 33.3 893 17.66 -0.69 on Friday. Major indices fi nished the week down amid concerns that consumers seem to be pulling back on 35.34 17.30 TalbotsTalbots 12.1 78003 19.45 2.07 their spending. 60.00 47.26 TargetTarget 17.3 207975 47.74 -1.48 The S&P 500 closed the week down 2.3 percent to 1,236.19 from 1,265.48 in the previous week. In the 26.28 19.95 TJXTJX Cos. 15.2 130423 23.39 -0.27 retail sector, the WWD Composite Stock Index also ended the week down 4.7 percent to 1,020.73 from 1,071.23 20.78 7.20 United United Retail Retail Group Group 7.2 3364 15.58 -1.23 33.77 14.99 UrbanUrban Outfitters Outfitters 20.7 176780 15.30 -1.04 a week ago. 50.87 42.31 Wal-MartWal-Mart 16.2 800309 43.05 -2.95 The July 14 issue of the Kiplinger Letter, which contains forecasts to aid management decision making, is 6.83 3.89 WetWet Seal Seal - 35043 4.52 -0.13 predicting that back-to-school and holiday sales will suffer this year as shoppers pare purchases. “Gains will be 7.30 3.00 WilsonsWilsons Leather Leather 15.3 5961 3.37 -0.46 about 2 percent and 3 percent, respectively. Even heavy discounting isn’t likely to shake loose a lot of spending,” 34.42 21.01 ZaleZale 14.3 32815 24.61 -0.14 according to the publication. Vendors 50.62 41.89 AlbertoAlberto Culver Culver 18.9 39053 46.52 -1.98 Reduced spending is not likely to be an issue for private equity fi rms. On Friday, Petco Animal Supplies Inc. 37.96 24.33 AvonAvon 19.6 93705 30.40 -0.35 agreed to be acquired by private equity fi rms Leonard Green & Partners and Texas Pacifi c Group in a deal valued at 31.58 18.59 BenettonBenetton 37.0 455 27.73 -1.63 $1.8 billion, including assumed debt, or $29 a share in cash. 43.23 31.58 CherokeeCherokee 18.6 1702 38.45 -2.22 Meanwhile, two former retail executives whose focus was the retail and apparel sector are leaving the apparel 37.40 26.14 CoachCoach 20.9 208971 26.43 -2.05 sphere. George L. Jones, the former head of Saks Inc.’s department store group, on Thursday joined bookseller 57.65 41.00 ColumbiaColumbia Sprtswr Sprtswr 13.0 7907 43.89 -1.15 25.17 16.48 ElizabethElizabeth Arden Arden 17.5 5572 18.05 -0.30 Borders Group Inc. as its new president and chief executive offi cer. 42.01 29.98 EstéeEstee Lauder Lauder 24.4 30730 36.76 -1.74 A week ago, Julian Day, the former Kmart Holding Corp. president and ceo, joined electronics fi rm RadioShack 24.80 14.96 FossilFossil 19.8 15842 17.63 -0.56 Corp. as chairman and ceo. 12.82 6.23 G-IIIG-III 31.4 1007 10.61 0.84 Jones’ new post means he won’t be looking to buy Saks’ Parisian business in a joint bid with Freeman Spogli, 26.35 14.50 HampshireHampshire Group Group 10.9 29 15.90 -1.60 a private equity fi rm. Belk Inc. has been the front-runner to buy the business from Saks. 38.85 31.19 IFFIFF 16.6 12451 34.58 -0.07 21.80 14.51 InterInter Parfums Parfums 22.5 2027 17.21 -0.05 — Vicki M. Young 36.10 26.47 JonesJones Apparel Apparel 16.2 47662 28.98 -2.60 34.57 21.83 KellwoodKellwood 64.3 20512 26.08 -2.44 35.29 21.85 KennethKenneth Cole Cole 15.3 4022 22.20 -0.20 42.79 33.40 LizLiz Claiborne Claiborne 12.6 42814 34.40 -1.98 8.79 4.25 MossimoMossimo 69.2 312 7.57 -0.08 WWDStock Market Index 24.98 16.49 MovadoMovado 19.2 7116 21.35 -1.31 Weekly % Changes Ending July 14 91.54 76.53 NikeNike 14.7 91648 78.58 -0.50 57.58 35.35 OxfordOxford 10.4 4385 35.46 -3.85 24.25 10.04 PerfumaniaPerfumania 2.6 296 13.80 0.00 Composite Retailers Vendors Gainers Decliners 26.71 18.50 PerryPerry Ellis Ellis 12.6 3982 25.36 -0.53 1020.73 1008.23 1060.35 41.50 26.75 Phillips-VanPhillips-Van Heusen Heusen 13.1 28184 33.54 -2.73 62.87 45.50 Polo Polo Ralph Ralph Lauren Lauren 16.6 39591 48.29 -4.10 Close Change Close Change 16.97 10.63 QuiksilverQuiksilver 19.5 95798 12.79 0.75 Harold’s Stores 0.62 14.81 Wilsons Leather 3.37 -12.01 4.29 1.13 RevlonRevlon - 76098 1.15 -0.15 19.80 12.31 RussellRussell 24.0 7714 17.95 -0.02 Talbots 19.45 11.91 Revlon 1.15 -11.54 -50.51 -51.88 -41.29 37.17 12.55 SteveSteve Madden Madden 20.2 17700 28.28 0.77 G-III 10.61 8.60 Mothers Work 30.76 -10.66 4.22 0.86 TarrantTarrant 30.2 2582 1.76 -0.17 24.36 11.11 True True Religion Religion Apparel Apparel 17.1 29068 17.21 -0.01 Index base of 1000 is keyed to closing prices Foot Locker 26.53 6.80 Oxford 35.46 -9.79 68.23 50.44 VFVF Corp. Corp. 13.7 24158 63.82 -3.85 of Dec. 31, 2002. 28.22 17.09 WarnacoWarnaco 21.3 13235 17.91 -1.19 Quiksilver 12.79 6.23 Nordstrom 33.44 -9.50 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006 17 WWD.COM Kilgore to Launch New Bath Line ’Tis the By Brid Costello Sweat Banned.” A foaming body cleanser, called Foam Call, has the grabby tag line: “Your key to LONDON — After blissfully shaking up the spa in- personal power could be in your shower. Get what dustry with her irreverent sense of humor, Marcia you want with one simple Foam Call.” Kilgore is about to unveil the funny — and less Kilgore said the line’s entertainment value is pricy — side of the bath-and-body category with a what she deems its “so what factor,” or what sets it Season new venture, Soap & Glory. apart from other brands. NEW YORK — In its fi rst The founder of the pioneering Bliss spa busi- “There are a million shower gels and soaps out ness will introduce the accessibly priced 12-unit there,” she said. “The question was how to make it holiday presentation, Wal-Mart line this month with a quirky entertaining. The entertainment sought to up the chic factor retailing strategy. The collec- on the packaging is the free prize for its much-publicized Metro tion entered high-end depart- — it’s gift-with-purchase from a 7 line with a show at MoMA’s ment store Harvey Nichols on BEAUTY BEAT mass perspective.” restaurant, the Modern. Saturday, and it will then be While Kilgore has used com- rolled out to High Street pharmacy chain Boots edy as a selling point before, her Soap & Glory This season, Wal-Mart’s the Chemists starting in August. Plans for an in- brand of wit pushes the envelope a little further, inexpensive lifestyle collection ternational launch have yet to be confi rmed. with names such as Sexy Mother Pucker for a featured more dresses and “[Harvey Nichols] is doing it to be groovy; I’m plumping lip gloss and One Night Tanned for a accessories, along with an doing it for the prestige,” said Kilgore. self-tanning spray. array of practical separates. The brand is a take on a category that is typi- And it is that sense of fun that’s winning plau- cally represented either by low-priced lines dits from retailers here. “Soap & Glory adds the fun Jeans were key items, as bought by supermarket shoppers or by high-end element back into beauty,” said Daniela Rinaldi, were fake fur pieces such as prestige brands that have niche appeal. perfumery and concessions controller at Harvey vests and handbags. Evening “There are a lot of people like me who will not Nichols. “Harvey Nichols are delighted to launch looks included jersey halter spend 20 pounds [$37] on a shower gel,” she said. the range exclusively in [our] Beyond Beauty [de- dresses and tank numbers “I don’t think many people do, since you’re just partment], as the fi t is perfect — mirroring our love washing it down the drain.” of the tongue-in-cheek and our desire to bring the with embroidered details. So, Kilgore decided to Some Soap newest, most innovative tackle the lower-to-middle & Glory products to our stores. end of the market with items. “We feel the range will products she believes bring really speak to custom- an element of fun and add ers, as it has ‘personality,’ value to what can often the price points are great be a purely functional and, most importantly, all purchase. the products work,” she “People choose mass continued. “With product or class, and there’s not names such as One Night that much in the middle. Tanned and The Scrub We all know body-care of Your Life, what’s not products above a certain to love?” price point don’t sell,” she said. “I went about put- Soap & Glory also offers a range of gift sets, and ting together a designer niche with a fun element at up to a dozen additional stockkeeping units will be a price point that people will [be willing to pay] for introduced in April. Kilgore declined comment on that type of product.” sales projections. However, industry sources esti- Soap & Glory items are priced in the U.K. from mate Soap & Glory will generate sales of 3 million 4.5 pounds, or $8.30 at current exchange, to 9 to 4 million pounds, or $5.5 million to $7.4 million, at pounds, or $16.60. retail in its fi rst year. Kilgore tapped Britain’s infamous tabloids for Kilgore created Bliss in 1996 when she opened inspiration when creating the line, after seeing a a spa in New York’s SoHo neighborhood that headline reading “Celebrity Disaster,” referring quickly became a pampering hot spot. LVMH Moët merely to a sweat stain on a well-known person- Hennessy Louis Vuitton took a majority stake in ality’s outfi t. “Tabloids can help people escape the business in 1999 and later sold its holding to from their own bad day and give them a laugh,” Starwood Hotels and Resorts in 2004. she said. “It’s the same for a spa experience. I was Kilgore has continued to consult on product looking to create a product that could carry peo- creation for Bliss since the LVMH acquisition and ple away and give them a laugh.” has created a London-based consultancy called Soap & Glory’s packaging, created with design- Brand Handling. Soap & Glory is one of a number er Kim Biggs, is splashed with product names and of projects she’s working on. information written like sensational headlines. “The worst thing in the world would be to fi nd For example, the label for a deodorant dubbed out I’m a one-hit wonder,” she said, in reference Sweat Banned reads: “Stunning Development! to following on from her Bliss success. “That, and Heroic deodorant holds on up to 24 hours to keep being bored, are the two big fears of my life.”

wanted to use real diamonds, but I didn’t want to be Fashion Scoops responsible for that,” Shannon said. MARY AND MAX: Looks like newly slimmed-down R&B UMA’S “SUPER” LOOKS: The budget for her last comedy, songstress Mary J. Blige is Max Azria’s latest muse. The “Prime,” was so small that Uma Thurman ended up designer created this Hervé Léger Couture jumpsuit wearing pieces from her own closet. But for her new in black, white and navy for Blige, who’ll wear it as movie, “My Super Ex-Girlfriend,” which hits theaters her main stage outfi t for the rest of her Breakthrough July 21, Thurman went Experience Tour, which kicked off last weekend in Uma Thurman upmarket with help from Maryland Heights, Md., and ends in Oakland, Calif., New York-based costume on Sept. 8. designer Laura Jean Shannon. Thurman plays the fashion- GETTING HER KICKS: Just loving superhero G Girl, who weeks after her exclusive girls’ puts together her look by clothing collection landed at shopping on Madison and the Elie Tahari boutique in East Fifth Avenues, but Shannon Hampton, designer Lucy Sykes mixed it up as well. For the has inked a partnership deal with opening sequence, in which Stride Rite to create a luxury G Girl thwarts would-be collection of children’s footwear. Bulgari thieves, she dons a This spring, the British blonde peplum jacket will appear in ads for the Lucy with a vintage skirt. Other Sykes for Stride Rite collection. looks include a Chanel Sykes is giving the tykes the dress paired with a Club royal treatment. The new shoes Monaco hat, a L.A.M.B. were inspired by a recent Sicily hoodie paired with Catherine sojourn, which consisted of hot Malandrino shorts, a days spent lounging under the Michael Kors coat with an lemon tree near the swimming American Apparel T-shirt and an Yves Saint Laurent pool at the olive press, and then jacket with black Chip and Pepper jeans. Throughout, riding mopeds to the Piazza at A sketch from the she wears a fake bling G pendant, belt buckle and Castelvetrano to eat bocconcini Lucy Sykes line brooch that Shannon codesigned with Bulgari. “They and gelati at a favorite cafe. for Elie Tahari. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY 18 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006 WWD.COM Napapijri Showcases Italian Flair in First U.S. Store By David Moin the world by 2010, including 10 in the U.S. Though under the VF umbrella, “We are in con- NEW YORK — Napapijri, the intricately detailed trol of our own destiny,” added Michael Boyle, vice and colorful Italian casual sportswear brand, is to president and general manager for Napapijri in open its first U.S. store today in SoHo. the U.S. “We make our own marketing decisions. “This can be an impactful business from the We make our own distribution decisions.” get-go,” said Michele Colonna, director of mar- Among the best-selling items are polos, keting and visual merchandising, of the 2,000- priced from $125 for one with a logo to $275 square-foot space at 149 Mercer Street. “We for an item embellished with laser-cut em- are comfortable projecting $900 to $1,000 in broidery, orange piping on the collar and sales per square foot in the fi rst year.” the fl ag of Norway. There are linen shorts Founded in 1986 in Aosta, Italy, with zip cargo pockets, $130; tops with knit Napapijri has had limited availability in sleeves and woven bodies with embroidery, the U.S. It has been sold at a few special- $135; jackets and anoraks with mesh lin- ty stores, including Barneys New York, ings, around $150; feather-weight linen Fred Segal, Lisa Kline, Camoufl age and sweaters, $90, and linen sarongs with Stanley Korshak. To some extent, that’s African motifs, $138. Duffel bags, back- enhanced the brand’s mystique, which is packs, leather belts, and travel and pho- built on imagery suggesting a spirit of ad- tography books are also offered. venture and exotic travel. The SoHo store is the prototype for fu- Two years ago, Napapijri — a Finnish ture units. It’s a straight run-through, con- name that means Arctic Circle and is pro- structed in four distinct sections, making nounced “napa-piri” — was acquired by the store seem larger than its actual size.

VF Corp., posing the challenge to Napapijri Shoppers enter into a moody, tunnel-like ZACK SECKLER PHOTO BY managers to grow the business for a wider room that feels like a gallery in a natural Napapijri’s SoHo store. Left: The brand’s spirited casual style. audience without losing its aura and Italian history museum, enclosed by glass-pan- fl air. “There’s an underground, cult-like fol- eled walls with sprayed-on images of a back of the store is an indoor garden with a skylight lowing for Napapijri. We want to keep that dense forest. In the fall-winter season, and seating area. character,” Colonna said. “It will be kind the panels will be transformed with a Colonna wants the store to become a forum for of an artful balance, but we are still very winter scene. Fitting rooms are hid- monthly events that refl ect the brand’s call to nature much an Italian brand.” den behind the panels and the room and spirit of exploration. For the opening party July A second U.S. store is planned in is sparsely merchandised with jack- 27, Napapijri is teaming with Global Green USA and September in Miami’s South Beach. A ets, tops and bottom. Sebastian Copeland, a photographer and fi lmmaker, to site in San Francisco is being negoti- The store then opens up to a larg- unveil a photo exhibit entitled “Antarctica — The Global ated, and another is being sought in er area for accessories that’s dis- Warning.” Photo sales and 15 percent of the evening’s Los Angeles. There are 17 stores in tinguished by zinc fl oors and a zinc merchandise sales will benefi t Global Green USA. Europe and Japan, though most of cash wrap. The third area, housing That all should support the primary strategy. “We the $100 million volume is obtained most of the collection, is distin- are looking at retail to spearhead the wholesale,” through wholesaling in Europe, par- guished by oak walls and fl oors, Colonna said. “Because Napapijri is a very visual ticularly Italy, France, Germany and a fl exible system for relocating brand and visual experience, it’s diffi cult to wholesale the Netherlands. The company’s tables and shelves, and airiness, effectively without a good retail strategy. There are a goal is to have 55 stores around from a 17-foot high ceiling. The lot of layers to this brand.”

Tied up selling your company? Don’t be.

Sun Capital Partners has a different approach to buying companies.

Checking Checking In Out

Get your WWD fi x wherever you call home.

≥ Fair and flexible terms ≥ Close deals in 30 days or less ≥ Cash buyers. No external financing required ≥ Experienced operators improve performance SUN CAPITAL PARTNERS, INC.

BOCA RATON | NEW YORK | LOS ANGELES | LONDON | SHENZHEN

Richard Hurwitz (561) 962-3468 www.SUNCAPPART.com

Subscribe now. Go to WWD.com, for group subscriptions call 212.630.4069. Did You Get the SCOOP? pg. 36 PHOTOS BY STEPHANE FEUGERE, OLIVIER BUHAGIAR AND STEVE EICHNER

SHOP MIAMI C.Madeleine’s packs 150 years of fashion and accessories into a chronological shopping experience.

Next Issue: September 5, 2006 I Close: August 8 Bonus Distribution: 20,000+ style-minded jet-setters in New York, Los Angeles, Milan and Paris; available on newsstands in major global markets.

For more information on advertising, contact Ralph Erardy, senior vice president ™ group publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWD Style Starts Here 20 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006 WWD.COM Barcelona’s Bread & Butter: Beyond Denim Kors Bedding Collection

By Barbara Barker ● Ailanto’s shapely dresses in splash-poppy red and dark wine Set for Bloomingdale’s BARCELONA — The Barcelona edi- prints inspired by Agatha Christie By Rosamaria Mancini tion of Bread & Butter is not just films and the Thirties. about jeans. ● Bambi’s “romantic glam” dresses NEW YORK — Saying that he’s always had an inter- Non-denim-oriented companies and separates with patched-fabric est in home, Michael Kors is launching his fi rst col- at the three-day show that ended combos and metallic threads. The lection of bedding, which will be sold exclusive- July 7 reported new retail strate- line’s niche items are selling in ly at Bloomingdale’s for three months starting in gies to expand distribution into a better specialty stores like Dernier mid-September. denser global arena. Cri in New York and Olga in Paris, The three-bed collection, the product of a licensing One of the fair’s bigger local said Laura Figueras, owner and agreement between Kors and Revman International of players, Custodio Dalmau, co-owner designer. New York, will be in 38 Bloomingdale’s stores. Of those, (with brother David) and designer ● Sita Murt’s delicate baby-fine 15 units, including New York, will feature Michael Kors of Custo Barcelona, said “within knitwear with contrasting tex- shops with fi xtures. our developing business strategy, tures such as gold mesh and lace. Kors’ presence in the home business is part of a grow- the broadest expansion is planned The Barcelona-produced line, in- ing group of designers working to emulate the success for the U.S.,” where the Barcelona- cluding embroidered dresses and of home power players Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and based sportswear label will open pants, signed up 120 independent . Asked if he thought there was room for another half-dozen company-owned Bambi owner- accounts for spring-summer 2006, another designer collection in a shrinking retail market stores in the next 12 months. designer Laura its first U.S. selling season, said with limited fl oor space, Kors said there is always space The locations are slated for San Figueras with Rosemary Myczkowski of The for product that is different and unique. Francisco, Los Angeles, Atlanta, her 2007 Isabella Company, who is Murt’s Boston, Honolulu and a second spring line. U.S. sales executive. Wholesale store in New York. In addition, the prices range from $80 to $240. company is fi rming up a network Two key brands used Bread & of franchised shops in Europe, the Middle East and Butter Barcelona to launch major fashion makeovers. Asia. “To better communicate with the customer, you Armand Basi, a local sportswear label, added U.K.- have to have your own stores,” Dalmau said. based German designer Markus Lupfer to its creative Custo previewed a small range for spring 2007 fea- team this year. His fi rst women’s collection for Basi is turing girlish baby-doll dresses with signature mix- made up of refi ned, superclean silhouettes, including match prints. sequined tanks, blouses and lightweight tops with nov- Another brand targeting the U.S. is Barcelona- elty sleeve treatments, pants, skirts and chiffon danc- based Jordi Labanda, with a multifaceted product ing dresses. range — from women’s wear and handbags to carpets Retail prices range from 70 to 250 euros, or $89 and bed linens — by Spain’s prolifi c and popular fash- to $318 at current exchange rates. Basi operates 14 ion illustrator Jordi Labanda. stores in Spain, two in Russia and one each in London What export manager Patricia Alcobia called and Dubai. “Labanda World” will exhibit for the fi rst time at the The Amsterdam-based brand Elle has revamped STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY The Park Avenue line draws inspiration from Kors’ rtw collection. August PROJECT Las Vegas as a springboard, she its fashion concept to focus on modern chic and wear- suggested, to the planned fall opening of a New York ability at accessible mid-price levels, said artistic “The designer who has something to say, who is showroom. director Nikki Hillier. In their fi rst season with Elle, telling a story, is the one who develops a permanent The company is to launch its fi rst freestanding design duo Oscar Raaijmakers and Suleyman Demir place in the market, and that’s what we plan to do with store in September off Paseo de Gracia, considered whipped up two basic shapes: short and boxy, or lon- home,” Kors said. Barcelona’s golden retail mile. Labanda’s humorous ger, stretched-out bodies; a slick series of pared-down After the Bloomingdale’s exclusive ends, the collec- graphics sell to about 400 do- tion will be made available to other retailers, should mestic points of sale, Alcobia there be demand. It will not, however, be sold in Kors’ said. Japan is the brand’s num- freestanding stores on Madison Avenue in Manhattan, ber-two market through the Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills and at the Americana mall distribution of Mitsui & Co. in Manhasset, N.Y., nor at two new mall locations that Labanda was one of 92 ven- are to open this month at NorthPark Center in Dallas dors making up the show’s and The Westchester in suburban New York. “Milk and Honey” hall, an “This is a business that I’ve wanted to get into for a eclectic group of better-to- while — my family was in home textiles, but I was waiting bridge apparel and accessories to fi nd the right partner that would be able to execute my categories. Trends featured ideas and my vision,” said Kors, who noted that Revman what one exhibitor called “co- has been successful with its Tommy Hilfi ger and Laura quettish femininity” — includ- Ashley licenses. ing volume play, breezy fabrics, If the bedding succeeds at retail, Kors plans to move glitter and shine — and a gen- into other home furnishings product categories, with bath erally sedate summer palette next in line. “It will be slow and focused growth,” he said. of black and white, beige and Inspired by jet-set locations, the beds, called Park heavy cream, navy, pale pinks Avenue, Taos and Tribeca, are sleek, but they also have and mint green. a sporty edge. The graphic prints, which come directly Among the key offerings: from Kors’ ready-to-wear collection, are mixed with tai- ● Julie Sohn’s tailored sepa- lored fabrications. A Queen comforter will retail in the rates, including a slew of $299 price range, a Queen coverlet for about $179 and a white cotton shirts with a Custo Barcelona girls in complete sheet set for around $199. twist; full skirts, and empire- the 2007 spring line. Bedding that could work in any type of home — an style dresses in crinkled silk. HILLIG MATTI PHOTOS BY apartment, country house or beach bungalow — was The label is in its second sea- one of the main goals, said Diane Piemonte, Revman’s son with New York’s Takishimaya, Sohn said. jersey dresses, and golf sportswear, including a perfed vice president of creative services. ● Luis Buchinho’s round-shouldered “cocoon” shapes leather jacket and a piqué skirt. “The idea was to create beds that could be accessible and decorative pleats (the Oporto, Portugal-based de- Elle plans to open six franchised stores this fall and to different sensibilities,” said Piemonte, adding that signer sells to Pieces Boutique in Prospect Heights, an another eight to 10 by spring, Hillier said. Targeted the collection has been in the works for about a year. .) countries are Russia, China, Poland and Spain. Rising Interest Rates, Fuel Costs Hurt Retail Sales By Evan Clark in June, to $17.7 billion, 2.2 percent behind June 2005. “Unless something happens here, back-to-school’s “We saw very slow consumer spending in April, May not going to be a happy story for retailers, and that WASHINGTON — Fashion retailers showed mixed sales and now certainly June,” said Ken Goldstein, econo- might be a prelude to what we’re going to see this com- results last month, as department stores lost ground mist at the Conference Board. “We’re going to continue ing holiday season,” he said. and specialty stores gained, according to the monthly to see it in July, August and September.” The fates of retail and the overall economy have a Commerce Department report. Consumers are reining in spending because they’re signifi cant link, since consumer spending makes up Squeezed by high gas prices and rising interest concerned about their jobs, said Goldstein, who noted about two-thirds of the U.S. economy. Retailers also rates, sales for all retailers and food service fi rms re- the economy added a “meager” 121,000 jobs last month. employ 23 million, or one in fi ve American workers, treated 0.1 percent in June compared with May, the “Pay increases haven’t really picked up, but prices according to the National Retail Federation, which fi rst decline since February. Sales rose 0.1 percent in have,” he said, “so they’re not only concerned about also raised warning fl ags about spending. May and 0.7 percent in April. their jobs, but also their household budgets, which are “Consumers are beginning to pull back,” Rosalind Wells, Seasonally adjusted sales at apparel and accesso- starting to be squeezed.” the NRF’s chief economist, said in a statement. “Retailers ries stores rose 0.3 percent in June, to $17.7 billion, 4.9 If consumers don’t start to feel more secure about can expect the second half to show moderate gains due to percent ahead of year-ago sales. On the other side of their jobs or the state of the economy, retailers will the slowdown in the housing market and other economic the ledger, sales at department stores slid 0.3 percent face some tough going, Goldstein said. factors such as rising interest rates and higher gas prices.” WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006 21 22 WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006

PATTERNS, SAMPLES, DESIGNER / JEWELRY Import Traffic Coord to $45K. Current exp Well established NYC co. is looking for in follow-up of shipments, e-mails over- PRODUCTIONS a trend designer in fashion Jewelry. seas, sending docs for customs clearances. All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. The ideal candidate must be creative, AS400 nec. Mdtn Co. Call 973-564-9236 Call Sherry 212-719-0622. ambitious and organized; knowl of components and costing is a must; Intimate Apparel ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, computer skills and 3-5 yrs minimum Est’d NY importer of costume jewelry exp required. Email or fax resume to: Designers /access seeks exp’d jewelry/self-starter PRODUCTIONS LICENSING COORDINATOR Ladies intimate apparel mfg seeks [email protected] designers for sleepwear and daywear w/proven following to sell volume Full service shop to the trade. 212 -679-1080 retailers, catalogs, premium accounts. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. categories. Must have exp in intimate Base + comm + benefits. Email: Excellent Opportunity apparel and be proficient with [email protected]/F: 212-594-4466 Patterns/Samples/Production DESIGNER-MENS $75-85K Photoshop and Illustrator. Trend Vintage Wovens. 5yrs exp a must savvy and good eye for color and style. Snaps, Eyelets, Covered Bottoms Call Laurie 212-947-3399 Send resumes to : Any Style - Full Service Fantasia Accessories or e-mail [email protected] [email protected] Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS A well est’d fashion forward accessories company has an INVENTORY PLANNER ...... TO 80K PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD immediate opening for a well organized, highly detailed Designer/Merchandiser Retail link A+, planning / forecasting High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 individual for the job of Licensing Coordinator. Must have 5+ years exp. in infant/ [email protected] childrenswear. Excellent communica - www.srisearch.com Duties and Responsibilities tion skills, organized, creative, & • Work side by side including direct contact w/the Designer computer proficient. Will oversee MERCHANDISER design dept.; merchandise all lines. in all aspects of the license including preparation of presentations Travel required. Please fax resume ACCESSORIES and upkeep of samples including detailing, styling & costing. with sal. req. to: 212-279-0131 Major brands & pvt label. 2-5 yrs expe- rience in line-building & co-ordination QUALITY ASSURANCE • Communicate with Licensor all stages of product development Designer/Merchandiser to $150K current exp w/ factories. Strong on Excel. Email re- including follow up. in product devel. in expensive designer sume: [email protected] MATERIAL / DIRECTOR women’s suits and sportswear required. • Communicating with the overseas factories and follow up Midtown well known branded name. Call 973-564-9236 JARAL FASHION AGCY Merchandising/ Well est’d NYC intimate apparel of samples, including preproduction. Assistant Designer Co. seek prof. to manage testing We offer a great work environment w/opportunities for DESIGNER Well known sleepwear, loungewear co. dept, work w/sourcing & PD to growth including excellent salary & benefits packages. NY based Sportswear Co. seeks seeks a Merchandise Asst. Candidates evaluate, test & approve raw motivated individual to work with must have strong knowledge on: all owner and head designer on design aspects of technical design, garment materials and finished goods. Please email resume and cover letter style. Must be fluent in embroidery construction. In addition, must be Experience in color tech-light box, [email protected] and beading layouts, have excellent detail oriented, with good computer spectrophotometer. Bra experience . creative skills, technical sketching skills and a team player. Please email abilities, and be able to communicate resume to: [email protected] Compensation to 140k with the Orient to follow up on [email protected] DIRECTOR designs. Should be proficient in PATTERNMAKER Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop, Ladies intimate apparel mfg seeks PR & ADVERTISING Gerber PDM experience a plus. patternmakers experienced in woven 2 POSITIONS AVAILABLE Fax resume to (212)730-5993. fabrics. Must have min 8 years experi- L.I. whse. w/fast paced environment seeks ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Waterworks, the leading luxury Designer to 100K ence in sleepwear patternmaking or technical design. Create 1st pattern, be the right individuals to grow with us. Leading outerwear company brand for the bath, is seeking a Current experience in Junior full fashion 5th & 38th st. SUBLET 5,000 ft. •Traffic/Routing/Assist w/EDI sweaters. Midtown Company able to work off sketch, put tech packs High ceilings - Excellent Condition seeks highly motivated creative Director level position to oversee Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agency together, computer literate in email. Knowledge of all major retailers req’d. Send resumes to : Prime Manhattan RE Scott 212-268-8043 •Data Entry/Order Processing/ PR & Advertising. Position based Search www.manhattanrealty.com & organized individual to work [email protected] Allocations with Mens’ & Boys’ design in NYC & Danbury, CT. 5-7 years Executive Assistant Search For Space In Garment Center (Data Entry: allocations, strong follow-up PR & marketing exp. a must. Marketing & communications consult- Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee skills, MS Office/Excel knowledge req’d.) team. Technical garment ing firm is looking to hire immediately, www.midcomre.com Fax or E-mailall resumes to: construction and computer Please forward resumes to: a full time executive assistant to work 631-422-9803 / [email protected] in a fast paced, exciting work environ- PhatFarm, BabyPhat, Enyce, Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 literacy in Illustrator a must. E-mail: [email protected] Akademiks, AppleBottoms Minimum 3 yrs Mens’ and/ ment. Must have previous experience Wanted: Boy and Girls 0 - 20 - Designers ACCESSORIES and references. Organizational skills a Showrooms & Lofts or Boys’ experience critical. Fax: (203) 546-6009 (all levels), Graphic Artists & Technical BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS * Production Assistant $45K must. Salary based on experience. Designers. Photoshop & Illustrator a must. Please forward resumes: 212-529-2131 Great ’New’ Office Space Avail * Graphic Designers $35-55K Please email resumes to www.waterworks.com Email: [email protected] ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Must have exp w/ 3-D Design [email protected] EOE Call Laurie 212-947-3399 Executive Sales or e-mail [email protected] Prod Coord to 60K Current exp in private KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Assistant label dealing w/ Wal-Mart or Kmart or At least 1-2 yrs garment experience. JCPenny req’d. Excel proficient Midtown Account Recieveable 38-40K Design Assistant Work closely with major accts, handle Co. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy min 2-3 years posting payments etc. Daniel M. Friedman Leading children’s wear manufacturer all admin duties for accts, showroom Strong experience on Excel. Mid-town Co. and Assoc. Inc seeks highly motivated/detailed indi- maintenance, fluent with excel, word, Product Coordinator SHOWROOM TO SHARE Call 973. 564. 9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy A Fashion Accessory Division of vidual for girls division to assist in all powerpoint, organize and diligent Warren, NJ crafts co. selling to major Steve Madden, Ltd has the following aspects of design through production. person needed for the fast pace position. retail chains seeks talented Product 530 7th AVENUE positions located in our Manhattan MAC & Illustrator a must. Minimum Please fax resume to Denise / Paul at Coordinator for Crafts Marketing Dept. Office + Use Of Showroom , Tel, Internet office open for immediate opportunity. of 1-3 years experience preferred. 212-967-2420. Be part of a team that creates product Morris Tel. 212-704-4240, email ACTIVEWEAR DESIGNER Please fax or email resume to: Factory Mgr Asst. 50-70K Current exp in from concept to retail. Our craft lines [email protected] Ladies apparel mfg seeks designer Wholesale/Retail Attn: Gail include Jewelry Making/Beads, Home for private label activewear category. (212) 967-8108/[email protected] woven women’s blouses/ shirts or men’s woven shirts. Supervise 200 sewers. Decorative, Bridal & Kits. Strong EXCEL, Must have exp in cut and sew knits Analyst product costing & packaging, overseas and be proficient with Photoshop and "Walmart Expert" Must know Retail- Thorough knowl. sewing collared shirts. DESIGN DIRECTOR ...... 100K + Career oppty. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY sourcing & supplier communication/ Illustrator. Trend savvy and good Link, be able to set-up styles, analyze L.A. Loc mens headwear fortune 500 price negotiation. Background in Retail eye for color and style. selling, create replenishment orders, co. Full relocation package supervise 7 / Consumer / fast paced environments. Send resumes to and more. Salary and Benefits Open. Minard F SRI Search 1-800-950-8382 Excellent salary & benefits. Looking for Showroom to Share [email protected] [email protected] Please e-mail letter/resume/salary to: in New York for markets only. Controller www.srisearch.com [email protected] Call or E-mail Kamran or Gretchen at: Controller with 5-7 years of Apparel / 213-748-5500 Admin Since 1967 Accessory experience. Responsible for FASHION CAREER OPPORTUNITIES [email protected] financial reporting, reconciling all gen- Design Dir/ Merchandiser Production Assistant W-I-N-S-T-O-N eral ledger balance sheet accounts, day Ileen Raskin, Apparel 212-213-6381 Data Entry/Shipping for small designer Great opportunity with major newborn Nancy Bottali, Accessories 212-213-6386 to day accounting. This is a hands on / infant co. Must be exp’d in infant or /couture co. Must be detail oriented & APPAREL STAFFING role in which you can grow into the Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 self motivated. Strong computer skills DESIGN * SALES * MERCH children’s wear. Excellent communica- CFO role. Must be able to manage staff. tion skills, organized, creative & com- [email protected] necessary. Entry Level. ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION Salary & Benefits commensurate w/ exp. Please fax resume to: (212) 398-7765 (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 puter proficient. Will oversee design www.raskinexecsearch.com dept; merchandise all lines. Travel Bookkeeper req’d. Competitive compensation Graphic Artist to $48K Current exp in pack- Experienced bookkeeper needed to package. Fax resume to: 212-279-0131 aging . hand tags. headers. labels. boxed Production Assistant help maintain growth of fast-paced co. items. Hours 9-5:30 No overtime. Full time Dynamic Childrenswear Co. seeking A/R CLERK Primary role is accounts payable, perm position. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Outerwear manufacturer seeks indi- an entry level Production Assistant. reconciling Import Documents, ADP Designer 70-80K current exp in Jr. C/S Please have at least 2 years experience vidual w/exp in charge backs, invoice payroll, and minor HR Responsibili- knit tops. Must hang w/ Unique, discrepancies, returns, order entry, HOME FURNISHINGS in the apparel industry, be computer ties. Salary and Benefits are open. Anxiety, Golden Touch, Cherry Stixs. literate, organized, detail oriented, and collections and various clerical duties. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY. DESIGNER Benefits. Pls fax resume (212) 840-6877 Please fax all resumes to (212) 643-7524 a team player. We offer a generous Premier Home Furnishings Importer compensation package that includes /Mfr. seeks Senior Designer. Must have medical, dental, 401K, paid vacation & DESIGNER 3 to 5 yrs. exp. Designing Home for TOB, sick time. If interested, please email: ...let an expert solve your Assistant Sales & For Boys Sportswear sizes 4-18. Must Sheets, Accts. All categories of Home. [email protected] denim problems... Data Base Design Analyst be able to merchandise and design line. Must be able to multi task, work with Merchandising Data Base Design Analyst, Secaucus, Responsibilities include travel to factories customers to develop private label lines. Design / Wash / Production / Children’s Clothing Co. looking for NJ: Design & coordinate data base overseas. Long term freelance OK. Develop as well as interpret design in- Sales and Merchandising Asst. to work development. Analyze needs & re- Fax resume to 212-239-2766. spiration. Should have exp. sourcing & Reinvention / Men / Women with Design and Sales Depts. Follow PRODUCTION ASST. quirements for new projects. Re- developing products with oversees fac- Leading children’s apparel company USA or China Production / up samples, details to Orient, ability to search, customize & implement new tories. Must be able to work as part of juggle numberous tasks. Must have seeks a highly motivated and detail- Premium to Mass Market solutions or modify existing programs. a team & independently. Bring creative oriented individual to oversee all Call: (718) 486-0088 basic computer skills. Knowledge of Identify ways to measure & improve & technical knowledge to the table. Req’d industry a plus. Phila. location. aspects of production approvals to www.DenimWork.com system performance & estimate time to be able to work in repeat, be proficient ensure on-time delivery thru daily Please e-mail resume to & costs. Meet with project team to in Photoshop & Illustrator. [email protected] communication between design/sales determine parameters of the project. Please fax resume to Human Resources and overseas vendors. Responsibilities Help design process plan to define @ (212) 252-0810 include: follow-up with overseas facto- business process strategy. Update ries, delivery tracking & spreadsheets. ASSOCIATE/ASSISTANT data manuals & determine company Illustrator/Graphic Designer Strong communication skills req’d. definitions of data. Train users in Warren, NJ crafts company seeks ex- Must have good working knowledge of CHARGEBACK SERVICES DESIGNER access to logical data base. Plan perienced Illustrator to create designs, Microsoft Outlook, Word & Excel. Well estbd. Northern NJ based Child- implementation maintenance & sup- Designer / Handbag mechanicals, product & packaging for E-mail resume with salary Free initial analysis of your retail ren’s Co.Specializing in infant wear for port provides for computer security. Stone Mountain, a leading company a variety of surfaces: fashion & stationery requirements Attn Charles to: chargebacks under Texas law. better mkt,seeking talented, hard MS in Computer Science req’d, for nearly three decades in ladies product. Must be a self starter with the [email protected] working & detail oriented individuals. 40hr/wk @ $28.33 p/hr. Fax resume to handbags and accessories, is seeking a ability to multi task & thrive in a very Filteau & Sullivan, P.C. Houston, TX Min. 1-3 years related exp. Knowledge 201-553-0846 attn LK. Handbag Designer for its NYC office fast paced environment. Excellent salary Call John Sullivan or Robert of Photoshop and Illustrator as must. to provide support to the design team. & benefits. E-mail resume, salary &3 Production Email resume to ATTN: JF Skills required include proficiency in samples: [email protected] Filteau @ (713) 236-1400 [email protected] hand sketching, strong knowledge of Coordinator $35- $ 40k handbag construction, Adobe Illustra- Import Department Asst IMMED HIRE Lg Intimates co seeks tor and 3 to 5 years experience in Apparel Import Dept seeks exp’d assis- Coord’s w/ 1-2 years apparel exp a must Design Assistant handbag design. Candidate should be tant to work independently and liaison [email protected] BUYER a well-organized, detail oriented, team with overseas factories, ocean / air Embroidery Production Est’d. Men’s Sportswear Co. seeks well player with good communication skills Allovers/Edges/Medallions/Venise Lace NYC retail home store seeks a hands- organized, detail oriented person to assist consolidators, SS lines, truckers, on Buyer with proven track record for and a solid work ethic. Only qualified banks and customs brokers, as well as Production Coordinator China & Domestic Production design director. Excel, Photoshop and candidates please apply for this Call Tom @ (201) 945-2727 Open-To-Buy & planning on the item / Illustrator req’d. (must do flat sketches). local sales, production and warehouse Seeking individual to handle Wm color classification level with accountability position in our creative and close-knit personnel. Must have hands-on exp in approvals and sample tracking from Duties to include issuing P.O.’s, tracking working environment. for executing to plan. Driven, highly samples, help create presentation boards, the above, along with knowledge of overseas. Wal-mart experience a big PATTERN/SAMPLES organized w/ strong computer skills an d creating line sheets, specking samples We offer a competitive salary and a customs compliance and ability to plus. Knowledge of WM color systems Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast 3-5+ years in a specialty retail environ- & fit comments, follow up w/overseas comprehensive benefits package. effectively dispatch containers. E-mail preferred. Individual must be detail work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 ment. E-mail resume & salary require- vendors & mills. E-mail resumes to: If you are interested please email your resume: [email protected] or fax oriented and organized. Please fax ments to: [email protected] [email protected] resume: [email protected] (212) 842-4040 EOE. resume to 212-239-2766. WWD, MONDAY, JULY 17, 2006 23

Technical Designer Ladies import apparel co. seeks tech Production Coordinators person w/ exp in pattern correction, Global intimate apparel company in construction specs & production. Able Secaucus is looking for 2 strong & to communicate w/ factories & create detail oriented people w/great PC skills. technical packages. Strong attention Responsible for overseas ordering, to details. tracking shipments & garment pricing. Email resume & salary req. to: Must have at least 3 yrs exp in production. [email protected] Excellent salary & benefits package. EOE. Please email resume to: Technical Designer to 85K Current exp [email protected] in womens, woven, missy sportswear. Devel specs, fit sessions, analyze PRODUCTION patterns, etc. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY Expanding Womens Sportswear TECHNICAL National Sales Manager Co w/Great Atmosphere Seeks: Allen B., a leader in contemporary jeans has an incredible * Prodn Asst, Interns Ok To $35K ILLUSTRATOR * Technical Designers $55-$65K Fast paced sportswear company seeks opportunity for an experienced National Sales Manager. Call Laurie 212-947-3399 a Technical Illustrator with 2-3 years Candidate must have 5 yrs exp. in leading the sales operations of or e-mail [email protected] experience to work in busy design a contemporary denim line. Must have proven ability to drive KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS department. Must know Photoshop, and Adobe Illustrator. Must have sales, build businesses and motivate a sales team. Production/Fabric knowledge of garment construction Individual should have established relationships with and details. Must be detail oriented, Department and Specialty Stores. Understanding of Retail Tracking Coordinator organized and able to work in a team Planning & Account Management is required. Major Childrenswear company seeks oriented environment. individual to track fabric and produc- Please fax resume to: tion from inception to finish. Must (212) 302-1980 have knowledge of fabric construc - Account Executive tion and testing. Must be detailed ori- Technical Production ABS., a leader in contemporary / designer clothing has an ented and knowledgeable regarding incredible opportunity for an aggressive, self-motivated the entire production process in fac- Sweaters / Entry level Account Executive to join our Dress Division sales team in tory. Position involves some travel. Sweater co. seeks motivated, person Excellent salary and benefits. for available technical position. New York. Established relationships with better contemporary/ Fax resume to (212) 239-2766. Responsibilities will include: prod. designer Department and Specialty Stores a must. Understanding specs, prod fittings, prod l/d’s, dye lot of Retail Planning & Account Management is required. & shade band approvals. Will train, but PRODUCTION some knowledge is a must. Must be Minimum 5 years experience. Growing Childrenswear Co., in business organized, detail oriented and able to 77 years, seeks energetic staffer w/strong go with the flow. A fabulous growth Please send resume to: overseas communication and scheduling opportunity for the right person. Will Fax: (213) 891-2812 Attn: Human Resources skills. Job requires A+ accuracy, persis- work directly with the Production or Email: [email protected] tent follow-up & E-mails, spec pack exp. Coordinator. Queens location. Min 1 yr Track & approve colors, trims, lab tests, experience preferred. E/O/E Q/C, deliveries. Work w/key retailers E-mail or fax resume Attn. Thomas to: such as Macy’s, Wal-Mart, JCP, Target. [email protected] / 718-418-9354 Knowledge of BV/MTL, CTL, Retail Link procedures & US govt. children’s Major Accessories Company is Growing and Currently sleepwear FR law is valuable. E-mail YAK PAK, a NY company that has 2 amazing opportunities letter, resume, salary history to Ms. Scott: designs and manufactures various types [email protected] and brands of bags, is seeking candi - dates for the following Design positions: €Account Executive € Production & Sourcing Mgr. GRAPHIC DESIGNER: WOMEN/JUNIORS LICENSED ACCESSORIES Highly regarded Sportswear brand seeks This person will perform a variety of Results driven individual with a proven track record in accessories. Must be a committed, organized/efficient prof"l. tasks including creating catalogs, self disciplined and have the ability to work in a fast paced environment both for production/sourcing mgmt. position. product POS, packaging, line sheets, Manage production of certain garment hang tags, edit images, create posters, independently and as a team. Email resume to [email protected] INDEPENDENT and product categories. Responsible for etc. $40K, plus benefits. SALES REP fabric, trim and mfr. sourcing. Excel, €Assistant Planner € Well est’d Intimate apparel company Word, Illustrator, Photoshop. Min. 3 yrs. BAG DESIGNER: is seeking experienced, aggressive exp. Fax resume: 212-274-8997 Tasks include designing original bag Req: 1-2 yrs exp. Strong retail math skills and work accuracy. Assist the independent sales rep. Must have products in line with a specific brand’s Dir. of planning to create corporate reports compiling retailers’ sales info. contacts w/major chain, specialty, & image and heritage as well as develop- department stores. Great work envir. Production/Sourcing Mgr. ing products based on the requests of using mathematical formulas in Excel. Excel proficiency a must, Access a Please email or fax resume to T-Shirt Rep Seeking an exp’d. Manager to oversee retailers and or the sales department. plus. Sears, Federated, Walmart (Retail Link) exp. a plus but not necessary. [email protected] / F: 212-937-3126 Exciting t-shirt company based in Prod’n./Sourcing of knits & tees. Relocate $50K, plus benefits. LA seeking innovative, independent to Cincinnati, OH. Fax/E-mail resume to: Forward resume and cover letter with salary history to : sales rep for the East Coast to join 513-559-3903 / [email protected] DESIGN/PRODUCT [email protected] with AP3462 in subject line. Great Benefits . Please visit: www.ripplejunction.com DEVELOPMENT ASSISTANT: our team. Visit our website (ergedesigns.com) Tasks include assisting with sample Perlina, a leading handbag and small RECEPTIONIST development paperwork, tracking leather goods company seeks highly email us ([email protected]) Leading Midtown accessories mfr samples/changes, assisting in sourcing aggressive, exp’d Independent Sales seeks bright energetic individual to trim items, organizing the design area, and to ’Feel the Erge,’ visit our booth Reps with proven dept, boutique, spe- (# A64) at the Pool Trade Show, manage front desk & clerical duties etc. $35K, plus benefits. cialty & chain store sales for the for corporate headquarters. Must have following territories: West Coast, North July 17-19, Jacob Javits Conv. Ctr. word & data entry skills. Min 2 yrs. exp. E-mail resume and cover letter to : [email protected] and ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE East, Mid-Atlantic, Florida, Canada, Fax 212-695-8621 Europe & Caribbean. Fax: (212) 563- Email: [email protected] indicate the position to which you Alexis Bittar seeks an enthusiastic individual to join our sales are applying. team. Will be a strategic thinker, plan & monitor sales projec- 3043 / E-mail: [email protected] RECEPTIONIST/ tions as well as develop & maintain strong relationships w/ OFFICE ASST. national & international key department store & specialty Leading handbag mfr seeks bright accounts. Applicant should have 3 yrs. min. sales exp. with energetic individual to manage front fashion forward product and strong retail math skills. desk and clerical duties for busy Position based in DUMBO, Brooklyn NY. showroom. Must be detail-oriented and able to work in fast paced environment. Qualified candidates, please send resume and salary Computer skills required. requirements to [email protected] Fax Resume 212-679-0311

Retail Sales Analyst ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE ...... 140K+ Legwear/Swimwear Sales Apparel company seeks individual Target Stores expert sales / planning PRIVATE LABEL/BRANDED with knowledge of apparel business Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 We are looking for an exp’d NY show- and high volume accounts. Excellent [email protected] room Salesperson with relationships communication and Excel skills required. www.srisearch.com in the above areas for Mid-Tier and Walmart/RetailLink exp. a must. Chain stores. Excellent Opportunity! Please fax resume to (212) 239-2766. Please fax resume, attn. Nathalia @ (212) 244-5535 Sales Assistant ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Fast paced apparel co seeks Sales Asst Ladies intimate apparel mfg seeks w/ 5 yrs exp. Resp: order placements, sales person for branded sleepwear Sales Executive sales analysis, interfacing w/retailers, label. Work on team for major Sportswear Co. seeks an energetic production and design. Word, Excel & account and have own account list. sales professional. Must have major Access a MUST. Should be motivated & Communication, energy and analysis Department/Specialty following in detail oriented. Fax: 212-842-4040 Attn: skills a must. Junior, Missy and/or Plus Sizes. R. Levy Or [email protected] EOE. Send resumes to Great Showroom. Fax: 212-768-9058 [email protected] Email: [email protected] Sales Asst to 35K Min 1 yr exp assisting in Showroom. Follow-up on accounts, orders, samples. Sales personality a Sales key acct exec $125-150K+commish. must. Call 973-564-9236 JARAL AGENCY ACCOUNT MANAGER Current exp in JR bottoms nec. This Global Home Furnishings Importer/ Mfr. large Co. has the established store clients seeks key player for Acct. Management presently. Potential $250-300K. Must SALESPERSON & sales. The right individual is a self hang with Mudd, L.E.I., Jones, Liz etc. Junior Dress Company looking for a starter, independent thinker, who can Call 973-564-9236 Agncy. Seasoned salesperson to maintain ex- work on their own or as part of a team. isting accounts as well as bring in new Must be able to multi task. 3 to 5 years businesses. The right person should exp. needed in HOME Textile Fashions have a JUNIOR dress background, 3-5 on the wholesale or retail side. Must have SALES years experience in sales and mer- exp. working with customers, selling, L.A. based co. in need of an exclusive chandising experience. Must be will- merchandising, product development. JR Dress Rep for our N.Y. showroom. ing to travel and have computer skills. Need to have a keen understanding of Merchandising experience a plus. Fax Person will start immediately. Email manufacturing & production. Will work resume to: (951) 734-3713 resumes along with salary require- in all aspects of sales, sourcing, product ments to DONNA at: development, production & shipping. [email protected] Must be comfortable working in a fast paced environment. Excellent computer SALES MANAGER Reggaeton Wear seeks Executive Spec Tech Asst. to $39K Min 1 yr. exp skills required. Please fax resume to : Human Resources @ (212) 252-0810 Sales Manager for Men’s apparel. on patterns, corrections, measure - Experience in hiring and managing ments, specing, garments. Midtown road representatives, managing and Kidswear co. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY planning inventory and working with merchandising team on line planning. Tech Designer 100-125K Current exp Jewelry Salesperson Urban Specialty store account contacts in kids or womens w/ strong Wal-Mart Growing online/trend jewelry company and experience a must. Understanding Standard’s knowledge. Midtown with a NY based showroom. Requires Hispanic demographic a plus. kidswear co. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY a personable, organized salesperson. Please fax resume to 212-239-2766. Duties include maintaining existing accounts, generating new business and Technical Assistant merchandising. Strong administrative SALESPERSON and multi-tasking skills important. High end Brooklyn Boutique seeks Designer Great opportunity. 2 yrs exp. Salary exp’d & aggressive salesperson. Major women’s outerwear co seeks commensurate w/ exp. E-mail resume: Please call: (347) 439-5200 technical assistant to designer on [email protected] production level. Highly organized, knowledge of garment construction, patterns & specs, etc. Overseas com- SALES REP WANTED munication and follow up, excellent Key Acct Exec to $125K++ Current For Reggaeton Mensline. Specialty computer skills. Please email resume exp in Jr. dresses/ sportswear. Selling and better store distribution. to [email protected] or to Sears or JCPenny or Kohls or dept. Fax contact information to : you can fax 1-212-764-7057. stores req’d. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY 212-239-2766. Now 26 million women can look fabulous and sleep better than ever. And a few smart buyers can, too.

introducing cool blossom sleepwear. It’s the one and only line of sleepwear designed for millions of women experiencing a change of life who want something pretty to sleep in that also keeps them dry and comfortable throughout the night. It’s also the one and only line of sleepwear designed for those who see the enormous sales potential of giving millions of women state-of-the-art fabrics that wick moisture away from their skin all night long while embracing them in softness, style and femininity. Retails $75 and up.

visit us at lingerie-america. booth n-15.

For an appointment at our showroom, call us at 888.316.0160 or contact the sales rep covering your area. tx, ak, fl ny, nj, ct, pa, ri, md, de, va, ma, me, vt, dc ca, wa, or, nv Debra Miller Olivia Feldman Lingerie Hap Morris 214.760.1717 212.213.1822 916.933.4345