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DECEMBER 2017

Night of Stars Modern Voices

3 FGI Frontliner Bringing Fashion Home

4 FGI Frontliner NIGHT OF STARS The Total Man: A Shot in the Arm For Retail?

5 FGI Frontliner Strategies for Entering the Chinese Market

6 Five Questions with a Rising Star Dana L. Bronfman Peyman Umay Kia Ragland 1 2 7 Upcoming Events

8 Spring / Summer 2018 RTW

THE PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE 3 4

Chair Katie Kretschmer Editor/Contributing Writer

Writers / Editors Wendy D'Amico, Creative Consultant Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Writer Carolyn Moss, Contributing Writer Melissa Pastore, Contributing Writer 5 6

Graphic Design 1. Fashion Superstar Dries Van Noten with presenters Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez Debora DeCarlo, DDC Graphics 2. Lord & Taylor Fashion Oracle Award winner Kerry Washington with Liz Rodbell 3. Fashion Star Thom Browne with presenter Dwayne Wade 4. Beauty Star Jamie Kern Lima with presenter Sunhee Grinnell Photography Nancy Jeffries 5. Humanitarian Star Terry Lundgren with presenter Patrick McMullan Co. 6. Board of Directors Media Award winner Bridget Foley with presenter

1 CONTINUED ON PAGE 2 Night of Stars ...... Modern Voices

Superstar Dries Van Noten

Fashion Stars Tom Browne, Simone Rocha, Isabel Marant

Humanitarian Award 7 8 Terry Lundgren for Macy’s

Lord & Taylor Fashion Oracle 9 Kerry Washington

Beauty Jamie Kern Lima, IT Cosmetics

Sustainability Marie-Claire Daveu for Kering 9 10

Board of Directors Media Award 10 Bridget Foley, Women’s Wear Daily

Multimedia Retail Michael George, QVC

Technology in Brand Development Rebecca Minkoff & Uri Minkoff

Fashion Legend Marylou Luther 11 11 12

FGI’s annual Night of Stars gala at Cipriani Wall Street on October 26 brought out a glamorous galaxy of fashion, retail, design and beauty stars, all in their sparkly best and out to celebrate “Modern Voices,” who “change the way we build lives.”

The night began with a “Big Bang” when an unexpected Fashion Legend award for was presented to Marylou Luther by another icon, Stan Herman. Margaret Hayes, FGI’s president, thanked the evening’s generous sponsors: AHQ – Accessory Headquarters, Arcade Beauty, Avon, Ecco Domani Wines of Italy, , Hearst Magazines, IT Cosmetics, Kering, Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s, Mozna, Paris Hilton Fragrances & Parlux Ltd., QVC, Rebecca Minkoff, and Scent Marketing Inc/IFF.

Guests were wined and dined and awards were presented. Partway through, the evening’s emcee, Simon Doonan reminded the modern voices and their presenters to keep their speeches short. Not everyone took note, but then again, all the accolades and many (many) words of praise and thanks were well deserved.

–– Katie Kretschmer Editor/Contributing Writer

7. Fashion Star Simone Rocha with presenter Stefano Tonchi 8. Multimedia Retail star Michael George for QVC with presenter Martha Stewart 9. Fashion Star Isabel Marant with presenter Inez Van Lamsweerde 10. Sustainability Star Marie-Claire Daveu for Kering with presenter Kelly Slater 11. Fashion Legend Marylou Luther with presenter Stan Herman 12. Technology & Brand Development Stars Rebecca Minkoff and Uri Minkoff with presenter Olivia Palermo 2 FGI Frontliner Bringing Fashion Home......

What are the connections between fashion and home interiors? Do fashion trends influence house and home? A panel discussion held September 14, at the Design Center, examined how the marketing approaches of each industry informs the other. Fashion Group International and interior designer Christopher Guy, in whose showroom the event was held, welcomed attendees to enjoy the perspectives of an illustrious panel.

Ilene Shaw, founder of Shaw & Co. Productions, introduced the event, held at the opening of From left: Jon Spurlock, Patrick Mele, Elisa Miller, David Sprouls, and Mike Piirainen Design Week in . She thanked Marimekko for its sponsorship, and acknowledged “We’re a tiny brand. You come to learn about it In response to an audience question regarding the the role of the Fashion Group International, which, and you fall in love with it, and you keep returning role of e-commerce and the purist culture of each as a cornerstone of the fashion industry, also because of the aesthetic,” said Miller, who has of their brands, Miller said, “Calypso’s e-com- recognizes and welcomes the home industry, been with Calypso St. Barth for 11 years. “We’ve merce is quiet. We make sure it’s styled in an and encourages and awards young rising stars never had an ad campaign. Our brand is geared to unexpected way, but we don’t push it. It could be in both arenas. She thanked Guy for supporting an individual who is not chasing the trend, but is bigger and faster, but it’s very healthy for our the presentation, and introduced Jon Spurlock, more about the woman and her mind, her passion, operating costs, which are extremely low. People head of creative at Christopher Guy, who intro- her travels. We really have an aesthetic we stay ask if we’ve been traveling to Indonesia or else- duced the panel. true to,” she said. where, and the answer is no. It’s good to have a budget. It makes you more creative. I actually like Home and Fashion Represented Mele said he didn’t believe in trends. “I’ve prided the challenge. It’s better to have some restraint.” myself on the world history of design and aesthetic David Sprouls, president of the New York School of movements. I believe that the work that a designer Piirainen provided an example of serendipitous Interior Design was the moderator. He welcomed completes is really their calling card. That has brand outreach, describing how the recent Georgia the panelists, including Elisa Miller, creative director been my marketing,” he said. O’Keeffe exhibition at The Museum for Calypso St. Barth; Mika Piirainen, fashion included two Marimekko dresses among designer for Marimekko; and interior designer Miller said Calypso had shifted away from offering O’Keeffe’s collection. “That was like free advertis- Patrick Mele. larger items for the home, like couches. “They ing to us,” he said. weren’t selling. We now include home in our Sprouls’ first question focused on how fashion brand, so you’ll see a pillow, for example, that Clearly, the intersection between home and fash- influences the home aesthetic. Miller noted that looks like our dress. It’s part of the lifestyle brand ion is permeable, and while borrowing design aes- at Calypso, their design concept is a seasonal one. we have. We look at the textiles and when we put thetics, each segment retains uniqueness. FGI “For us, the color palette or print direction we’re the Calypso handwriting on the item and collabo- President Margaret Hayes asked whether there was feeling is translatable from fashion to home. rate, it’s exciting and sells better. Getting back to a course at the New York School of Interior Design These things can be interchanged, particularly the intimacy aspect, buying a rug is less intimate focusing on that intersection. Sprouls responded, smaller things,” said Miller. then buying something for the body. But, you still “For younger students, it’s really lifestyle. There’s may have an emotional experience buying a rug.” Piirainen said, “Marimekko designs for happy days no specific course in the blurring of the lines, but it is part of what the students are learning in many for everyday life.....For us, clothing and interior Origins of Inspiration have always been related.” For Mele, each particular of their courses.” client informs how the design will be created. “We Mele said that inspiration comes from all different Brand connection and longevity of the aesthetic create our line based on a heightened version of areas of life. “The most amazing thing I’ve seen is remained paramount for the panelists, with Miller that client. In terms of how the two are related, the redesign of the flagship on noting a jadedness in the overload of social media there is a constant conversation. There are ad Madison Avenue. I was floored. It was designed by that didn’t always ring true. The panelists all campaigns around the collections that create the Raf Simmons, and to me it did what Calvin Klein valued the authentic connection rather than zeitgeist of each collection,” said Mele. has always done. I thought it was unbelievable.” fast-paced social media for brand promotion. Mele concurred regarding social media traction. “It’s a Marketing Differentiation Marimekko’s designer acknowledged the influence of the Emmy-winning Netflix series, “The ‘for now’ phenomenon with the millennials. I think Asked whether marketing for home and fashion Handmaid’s Tale.” “The dresses, the acting, the craze around a particular person is going to has changed over time, the panel provided a range the mood, the color, it was Hitchcockian,” said wear thin,” he said, suggesting that clients will of perspectives. Piirainen said, “We sell an idea Piirainen. “As a Finnish person, I love nature ultimately opt for authenticity. rather than dresses at Marimekko. We don’t follow and lakes, there’s a strong connection with the trends at all. As a Finnish designer, we are very outdoors,” he said. — Nancy Jeffries practical and functional. Our dresses from the ’60s are still functional. Right now, we’re doing For Miller, an inspiration is music. “I’m from Contributing Writer, [email protected] our Spring 2019 collection, so we trust what we’re Brooklyn, and I just saw DJ Khaled and Dave doing. We’re not closing our eyes, but we’re just Chappelle three weeks ago. Music really speaks to doing what we’re doing. We have intuition.” me,” she said. 3 FGI Frontliner The Total Man: A Shot in the Arm For Retail? ......

From left: Todd Snyder, Alex Badia, Eric Jennings, Matthew Marstan and Donrad Duncan

Trends and zodiac signs were top of mind denim trend by referencing popular ’90s TV shows After the trend review, Badia did his best to live on October 5th, when FGI gathered a group “Friends” and “90210.” This led the panel to up to the panel’s title. “When she said the total of menswear experts at the Hearst Tower to question whether men care about trends. Jennings man, I basically died,” he joked. The panelists discuss the state of the industry. Alex Badia , “always fought” trends and believes that “men are debated where men get their fashion information. style director of WWD , led the discussion more interested in brands than trends.” However, “Most people, Instagram is the source of informa- and introduced the panelists by listing Badia had a different view. “We can’t say they tion but they still appreciate the curation of a their accomplishments and star signs. The don’t care because we’ll lose our jobs,” he joked. magazine,” Marden said. Badia agreed, saying group included Matthew Marden , Scorpio and Kidding aside, Marden agreed and shared his view magazines are “not providing information. The role style director of Esquire ; Eric Jennings , Aries that men understand trends over time but they of a magazine is to inspire.” On the retail side, and former vice president of men’s, home, care more about details like fabrics and cuts. Jennings said the younger Saks shoppers wanted gifts and beauty for Saks Fifth Avenue; menswear information from the store associates since they designer Todd Snyder , Sagittarius; and Donrad The increasing popularity of pink in men’s fashion crave human contact with real people. Meanwhile, Duncan , Pisces and designer of Engineered was another hot topic. Jennings credits Kanye Snyder said he uses Facebook, email newsletters, For Motion (EFM). West’s collections with making more men open Instagram, digital marketing and influencer part- to wearing the color pink. While he said the nerships to reach his consumers, who are typically The evening kicked off with a review of some of head-to-toe pink looks shown on the runways are around 35 years old. the latest menswear trends accompanied by not commercial, pink sneakers were always a top commentary from the panel. When addressing seller in the men’s department at Saks. Marden From there, the panel moved on to talk about the “Active Lifestyle / Street” trend, Badia was echoed this sentiment, saying that while you won’t the effect of fast fashion and iPhone culture on careful with his phrasing. “We don’t like the see men walking down the street in pink Versace the menswear industry. Snyder said that while word ‘athleisure,’” he shared. Marden believes runway looks, they might test the pink trend in the retailers like Zara have changed everything with this trend has endured because “everyone works form of a t-shirt or a Common Projects sneaker. same-season copies, he still has a positive out- in such a different way.” He thinks men need look. “It makes us more creative,” he said. clothes that can take them through the unexpected New suiting was the final trend of the evening. Jennings believes fast fashion has given rise to the events of their days. Duncan fully embraces this trend, since comeback of designer logos because they can’t be he designs comfortable yet tailored clothing overtly copied. Brand collaborations were the next topic. Snyder including structured knitwear. Snyder is also is a proponent of collaborations, having worked an authority on suiting, having launched Finally, the panel examined the link between with Champion, Timex and Redwing. “It takes you the Ludlow Suit during his time at J. Crew, men’s fashion and grooming. “It’s everything,” to a new place,” he said. Since he doesn’t have which taught American men how to wear more said Marden. He believes a horrible runway collec- large marketing budgets for his own label, collab- fitted suits. According to Snyder, suiting tion can be elevated by good grooming. Building orations help him gain exposure and grow his still makes up 30 percent of his business, on Marden’s views, Jennings shared that when business. For example, his Champion collabora- mainly due to the price point. Coming from Saks created their men’s store in downtown tion makes up 50 percent of his volume. Duncan a department store background, Jennings had , the grooming and barber section was also voiced his support for collaborations, having a different perspective. “The foundation of an integral part of the design concept. successfully partnered with large well-known retail is the suit. That’s where the money is,” brands like Dockers. he said. However, he acknowledged a sea change in men’s fashion, saying, “the classic suit is –– Melissa Pastore The panel then turned their attention to the no longer a symbol of power. It doesn’t have Contributing Writer, [email protected] denim trend. Badia described the latest men’s the same meaning.”

4 FGI Frontliner Strategies for Entering the Chinese Market ......

From left: Mark Schaub, Grant McCarthy, Andrew Waters, and Keith Holloway

On September 6, Fashion Group International so spending power is high. The middle class is percent is conducted on a desktop. “Having a welcomed a panel of experts to discuss new strong, as are millennials, who are both strong and website and mobile are critical for business in insights into doing business in the Asian market , growing. “If you’re serious about your brand, China,” he said. including investing, e-commerce, and brand- China is the market to head to,” said McCarthy. building, and offer tips to successfully enter the McCarthy said investing in e-commerce is essen- market. Protecting a brand with product trademarks is tial. Digital apps are powerful tools for navigating essential. Schaub said, “In the West, if you can the market, and it’s crucial to understand and Moderated by Keith Holloway, CEO and director of prove first use, you’re okay, but in China, you have utilize Chinese social platforms and e-commerce. Ecom Products Group, the panel included Mark to file and register first, and it’s very expensive.” According to the panel, most of the shops and Schaub , senior partner at King and Wood It can become more expensive if your brand name cafes in China don’t take credit cards. They take Mallesons; Grant McCarthy , China Services has been copied. He said that in certain cases, it’s WeChat. They don’t use email. They use WeChat. Marketing Group at Baidu International; and advisable to buy your brand name back, which can “WeChat is a combination of Facebook, Twitter, Andrew Waters, chairman of Ecom Group & China be a lengthy process. and much more,” said Schaub. Retail Group. Holloway opened the discussion by noting that to understand the Asian consumer it Waters said buying back trade names is a part of He added that it’s important to remember the was important to look at the reasons for wins and doing business in China. He explained how vastness of this market. “China is not one market. losses in the market. numerous “trademark squatters” register brand It’s many different regions,” said Schaub. He names, and the original owners have to buy them The heritage component is an important part of emphasized, “A good contract is good leverage, back. “It’s also important to trademark your brand look at your position and work out the best deal.” the appeal to the Chinese consumer. “The name in Chinese and to make sure that it’s a good Chinese consumer wants to know the heritage translation of the name, otherwise it can be How to Succeed in China story. They want the heritage brands,” Waters misconstrued in the Chinese market,” said Waters. said, noting that generally, any foreign brand is Waters concluded with strategies to make your still a cross-border brand, so it is key to know how Logistics and payments are also key points in business successful in the Chinese market. to connect. “Retailers try to focus on what’s China. “China is an open market internally, but for • Really understand who your customer is. trending overseas, but often they have too many luxury goods people want to buy cross-border,” • When formulating your contract, understand sku’s. It’s important to focus on limited sku’s, not said Waters. He said fashion brands and luxury commercial terms and Chinese law. huge collections,” he said. goods are simpler than cosmetics. However, the • It’s a big market. Focus on and simplify your logistics are complex and massive, so cross-border target. Waters cited the example of H&M putting a Stella is the best way to go. “With the right cross-border McCartney dress in the Chinese market. It was • Create and maintain a low-cost, high-efficiency provider, you can handle logistics simply, and cut plan. sold out completely, while other stock in the store down on returns and costs. Your cross-border languished. “The Chinese want value, but if you importer becomes your partner,” Waters said. want to be a premium brand, you need to sell at — Nancy Jeffries Products have to comply with different standards, Contributing Writer, [email protected] premium pricing. The Chinese are very savvy with for example, dye compliance is a factor, and if it’s a the Internet and they can tell what brands are prohibited item you can’t sell cross-border, hence selling for in different places, so you have to be an experienced cross-border provider is essential. careful with pricing,” he said. A Mobile Market Entering the Chinese Market There are 450 million handsets in the market. “A Sales potential is significant. “The numbers person’s mobile device in China is literally their speak for themselves,” said McCarthy. phone, their credit card, and more,” said Waters. He described how the climate in the market According to Waters, 65 percent of business in corresponds to sales. Disposable income is high, China is conducted on a mobile device, while 35

5 ive questions with the Rising Stars 5 Each January, FGI recognizes a group of up-and-coming designers, entrepreneurs and other creatives in the fashion, retail, beauty and decor fiel ds.

As the rising stars of the industry, we thought it might be enlightening to ask them some questions about how they got this far, and what they see for the future. We've been featuring their replies here.

Dana L. Bronfman Peyman Umay Kia Ragland Rising Star Rising Star Rising Star winner for fine jewelry winner for Menswear winner for Beauty-Fragrance

1. How has winning the Rising Star award affected being contacted to give quotes, speak at events, As for social media, my angle is like fashion your career, and how do you see it shaping your and represent Estée Lauder Companies and my shows. We have been running a serious social- business/career in the future? college, FIDM, on multiple media platforms. mediacampaign for my brand for the past couple I see this award shaping my career in the future years, since I launched the ready-to-wear line. I DANA L. BRONFMAN: Winning the Rising Star by creating opportunities for me to showcase my have a team that manages the brand in all social Award from FGI has helped elevate my credibility talents. media platforms. Although, simply because we didn’t have an online shop, a retail store or a cor- to the next level. I see it opening up many doors ner in a department store, our efforts and invest- for me, including capturing the attention of 2. Does the investment in a major branding event ments in social media campaigns haven’t top retailers. (such as a runway or party/presentation) make sense returned to us as a solid business. We have quite today or does social media work better to grow some following in press, national and internation- a brand? PEYMAN UMAY: Winning the Rising Star award al as well as social media, and we have been from an industry pioneer organization is receiving amazing feedback but there’s no outlet definitely a great milestone in my career. One DB: I think major branding events can be for our fans to purchase our designs except New of the biggest challenges for early-stage fashion amazing, but that without social media presence, York and Aspen. To change that and capitalize on brands is being acknowledged by decision makers the public will not know about your show or our followers, we’re launching our first e-com- such as fashion publishers, department store presentation. It is nonnegotiable to create epic merce website allowing everybody to shop our buyers, digital magazines, etc. Earning this original content and consistently share it via designs online. This will be a great addition to my award will be bringing more recognition and social channels. brand, as people will not just like our collection therefore respect to the brand, in a sense. I but purchase it. see the Rising Star award title as a key that will PU: The answer depends on where you stand hopefully let us achieve our near-future goals. with your brand. The most important thing in KR: I feel that brands need both events and social I also believe it’s not actually about winning business—and in life for that matter—is to know media today because the two go hand in hand. an award; what matters in this industry is what where you are and who you are. For instance, if When a brand has a launch party, all the guests you do about it strategically, how you could grow your brand does not have a properly running and influencers post the event and product all your business, optimizing the aftermath of this wholesale operation yet with a full collection and over social media. beautiful recognition. Having said that, I and stock inventory, you would have hard time justify- my team are trying to make the right business ing an investment in a runway show. Because the 3. If you weren’t in your current profession, what decisions to enhance our brand in the most whole idea to do a show, in my opinion, is to would you be doing (and why)? present the collection to buyers, bloggers, fashion effective way possible. editors and other decision makers. If you are not DB: I would either still be working in the nonprofit prepared for a potential order following your show, sector or as a therapist or social worker. KIA RAGLAND: Winning the Rising Star Award has you not only disappoint people but also ruin really helped me to be recognized for my work. future relationships. The main goal for making PU: One of my other huge passions has been It has been a whirlwind being contacted to give such investments in big productions should be acting, and it has been in my universe since long quotes, speak at events, and represent Estée bringing business in return, and that all depends time ago, when I made my debut in some com- Lauder Companies and my college, FIDM, on on the readiness of your operation. To speak for mercials back in college. The first five or six years multiple media platforms. I see this award my own brand, we are working on establishing a after moving to the U.S. went to starting a life shaping my career in the future by creating oppor- proper, whole operation so we can be prepared for and a business, but I found some space and time tunities for me to showcase my talents.Winning anything before our next runway show. On the in my life three years ago, to channel some focus the Rising Star Award has really helped me to be other hand, presentations and parties might be in to my other passion. I attended New York Film recognized for my work. It has been a whirlwind easier to produce compared to runway shows. Academy’s acting program. Upon graduation, I got

6 CONTINUED ON PAGE 7 ive questions 5 Calendar of Events

in in some short and feature movies as supporting could create a good presence and contribute to and leading roles. Two of my movies are being the fashion industry with a visionary/innovative released in 2017. design strategy, a proper brand management and an effective wholesale/retail operation. We could I’m very focused and determined to establish only achieve our goals if we can get this trio work respected careers in both fashion and acting, as I with each other in a fine synchronization. And in believe these two careers will only enhance each five years time, expansion will be our focus, being other since my brand is my name. Therefore, I sold in multiple department store corners along divide my time between New York, Aspen and with our own stores. I believe growth is inevitable L.A., creative-directing my brand and working on because business is like your own life or like a my upcoming movie projects. plant, you either grow or die, there’s nothing in between. KR: If I wasn’t a product developer, I would prob- ably be a hair-color specialist. I started in the KR: As a product developer, we constantly have to beauty industry as a cosmetologist and makeup incorporate ingredients, shades, textures etc. artist. My strength as a cosmetologist was in hair to accommodate the demands/trends in the color to the point that I was thinking about ever-changing retail environment. It also depends becoming a hair-color specialist. I’ve always on the brand’s retailers, such as open-sale, enjoyed being creative and have a passion for department, or online. January 25th, 2018 color theory. Fashion Group International 5. What advice would you give to the next class of Rising Star 4. Where do you see fashion/beauty/design, and Rising Star nominees? your role in a changing retail environment five years Luncheon and awards ceremony from now? DB: Stay patient, persistent, and true to your unique point of view. Celebrating the accomplishments DB: In five years, I think the brands and stores of emerging talents in PU: My suggestion to the next class would be that that last will adopt more unique ways of engaging Accessories their customers. I think the industry is calling for there’s nothing they can’t do if they back their more personalization and direct interactions hard work with burning desire and have a limitless Beauty/Fragrance Corporate between customers and brands through social faith in themselves. In life, everything is 80 Beauty/Fragrance Entrepreneur media and technology. While many customers percent psychology and 20 percent mechanics. Fine Jewelry today seek instant gratification, I hope in five If they have a certain mindset, believing in some- years that the market supports a luxury sector thing badly, wanting something so deeply that Home/Interior where a brand’s commitment to serving and they are willing to stake everything to achieve it, Men’s Apparel improving the world adds to its status, rather than success will come. One other most important the pedigree being defined by name alone. thing is not ever quitting, being able to see the Retail I believe time is the ultimate luxury. The opposite opportunity that lays within every adversity they Women’s Apparel of fast fashion, I hope the fashion industry slows face in life. Winners don’t quit, quitters can’t win. down, adopting conscious capitalism as the norm, And of course, nobody will come in to their living rather than the exception. I see more brands room, pull them off their couch and put them on Cipriani 42 Street taking into account triple bottom-line accounting: top of the world if they do not act on their talents 11:15 am / Reception and Red Carpet people, planet, and profit. I hope to be a voice and passion, working hard enough to achieve their advocating for social, environmental, and goals. They should never allow any negative 12:15 pm / Luncheon and Awards economic sustainability, and I hope consumers influence to affect them and if anybody tells them support a new economy by demanding quality “you can’t,” they should respond: “Wait and see.” For more information over quantity. I will be a part of this by creating Human beings have a limitless power within that locally, sustainably, and as slowly as possible so they can turn any thought in mind/desire in heart And to purchase tickets and/or tables as not to produce extra waste. in to its physical equivalent, reality. Visit www.fgi.org or call 212-302-5511

PU: Our near future goal is to have a retail pres- KR: My advice would be to do the best they can ence in one of the big department stores as well and enjoy the moment. Everything happens so as specialty boutiques in different locations in the fast that if they don’t take a minute to enjoy it, country. I’m very confident that exposure to the they’ll miss out on the experience. Also for them masses with our menswear line along with the to remind themselves that even being nominated new online shop will put my brand in the radar in is already a major accomplishment that they between other retail giants. And I believe we should be proud of. 7 Fall RTW ......

From left: Mickey Boardman, Ying Chu, Rickie De Sole, Nicole Fischelis and Marilyn Kirschner COMME DES GARCONS GUCCI

On November 10, FGI held its semi-annual ready-to- “magic of fashion and that fantasy that we all crave.” first started out covering beauty at shows, she said wear trend review and panel at the Hearst Tower. From the retail perspective, Fischelis said that “when there was no one backstage, but now “it’s this very The event kicked off with an overview of top trends you’re seeing hundreds of shows a season, you’re sort of commercial machine. There are camera crews, from the season’s shows in New York, London, Milan always hoping for a special moment, and I never there are bloggers,” she said. and Paris, which was curated, produced and missed a moment with any of the collections of narrated by Marylou Luther, creative director of FGI. McQueen. It was what a fashion show should be and Boardman also broached the subject of diversity. Chu Key trends highlighted in the presentation include is not as much anymore, except when you see some- said Miu Miu and Prabal Gurung are both standouts transparent fabrics, oversized knitwear, a new take thing like the Thom Browne show.” De Sole agreed for diversity, not only in terms of race but also in age on femininity characterized by details like ruffles, that “there were a lot of spectacles this season.” For and body size. De Sole thought Chromat and as well as a new duality demonstrated by the her part, she believes an experience “helps you con- McQueen were diverse shows as was as Gucci, partic- prevalence of unisex shows this season. nect emotionally with a collection” and “it helps tell ularly in terms of gender fluidity. On the topic of age the story in such a nice way.” diversity, Fischelis said she is fascinated by going After the trend overview, a panel of esteemed industry to stores like Dries Van Noten and seeing different experts took the stage to share their take on the Boardman asked the panel to share moments from the generations shopping the same collection. Boardman season. Mickey Boardman, the editorial director of last round of shows that made them feel optimistic. noted that the show was very diverse in Paper magazine moderated the discussion, which Kirschner said the use of color made her hopeful. terms of age this season. “I love nothing more than a included Ying Chu of Glamour, Nicole Fischelis of “Fashion is all about putting things on that make you celebrity child, but that’s not who buys these Macy’s, Marilyn Kirschner of Lookonline and Rickie feel great and you do feel different when you wear clothes. It’s rich women who are 45,” he added. This de Sole of W. color,” she said. Fischelis said all of the prints and prompted De Sole to chime in with The Row as an the influence of art made her feel optimistic. After all example of a brand that has always done a good job Boardman took the stage in sequins and kicked off of the nostalgia, Boardman joked that “we’re just a of casting a diverse age range in both their shows the discussion by asking each panelist to share their bunch of emotional sad sacks up here.” and look books. favorite shows of the season. Kirschner loved Valentino for elevating banal basics like cargo pants From there, the group turned their attention to the Boardman wrapped up the discussion by asking the and parkas, while Fischelis loved Marc Jacobs. “I’m recent designer shuffles at many major labels. group for their top takeaways from the totally in love with who he is and what he does.” Kirschner shared her thoughts on a notable misstep Spring/Summer 2018 season. Kirschner said that She also loved Dries Van Noten, despite not being in saying, “I think the one catastrophe was Lanvin.” women are not buying head-to-toe designer, instead attendance at the show. “Even though I wasn’t invit- Boardman concurred, saying, “No argument here.” “they are buying special pieces.” Fischelis said her ed to the show, it doesn’t matter. I still love him,” Fischelis shared a similar sentiment saying that the takeaway was freedom and individualism. De Sole she said. Meanwhile Céline was a favorite for De industry misses Alber Elbaz at the helm of Lanvin. On liked the designers who were consistent and constant Sole, who thought it was “Phoebe at her strongest.” a more positive note, De Sole and Chu applauded the like Gucci and Calvin Klein. “There’s so much noise, From a beauty perspective, Chu favored Dries Van debut collection of Natacha Ramsay-Levi at Chloé. it kind of makes you stick out,” she added. Noten for the way the embellishment of the clothes tied into the use of Swarovski crystals in the hair The panel also addressed how the fashion industry and eye makeup. has changed during their years in the business. “Well when I started out, there were no computers,” The subject then turned to the experiences offered Kirschner said. “Now what I still can’t get over is the –– Melissa Pastore by some designers this season and how production immediacy,” she continued. De Sole said the “sheer Contributing Writer, [email protected] impacts the way collections are perceived. volume” of shows is the biggest change and that she Chu believes that experiencing shows provides the cannot catch her breath between shows. When Chu

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