WWDSECTION II MILESTONES VivaTHE WRAP IS 40 DV F!

Diane von Furstenberg marks four decades of celebrating the dress, feminine power and style.

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Diane von Furstenberg at Studio 54 in 1978. PHOTO BY JOHN BRIGHT PHOTO BY 2 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES

2010, wearing DVF wrap rompers. ■ DVF designs a series of print-filled suites for Claridge’s hotel in London. ‘It All Began With the Dress’ ■ The designer receives the André Leon Talley Lifetime Achievement Highlights and sive, would follow in 1994. 2004 Award from the Savannah College of DVF opens its first Paris flagship, a Art and Design. milestones through 1995 1,600-square-foot shop at 14 Rue D’Alger. ■ The company unveils its first store in the years. Compiled by The company licenses Avon for mod- ■ The firm licenses Italian silk giant Latin America at Iguatemi São Paulo. erate-priced casual sportswear called Mantero for a beach line and foulard “Journey of a Dress” is shown there. Dianne M. Pogoda Diane von Furstenberg The Color collection and H.Stern for fine jewelry. ■ Stores open in Istanbul and Dubai. Authority, part of Avon’s $130 million Diane von apparel business. 2005 2011 Furstenberg Von Furstenberg receives the Lifetime Diane perfume is introduced. Achievement Award from the CFDA. ■ The Diller-von Furstenberg Family featured in ■ an early ad. DVF opens her first Russian store Foundation grants $20 million to help in Moscow, and shops in Los Angeles, finish the High Line park in New York. Hong Kong and Paris. ■ The Municipal Art Society of New York awards its Jacqueline 2006 Kennedy Onassis Medal to Diane von The designer is elected president of Furstenberg for work in preserving the the CFDA. city’s great architecture. ■ A shop opens in Antwerp, Belgium. ■ A second New York shop opens on ■ DVF and its Japanese distributor, Wooster Street in SoHo. Unit & Guest, open the brand’s first ■ A home collection of tabletop, bed- freestanding store in Japan, in Tokyo’s ding and rugs bows. Aoyama district. ■ Grace Cha, a former Valentino USA exec, joins the firm as vice president of The designer started selling on QVC in 1992. 2007 global communications, a new position. DVF opens a flagship in the ■ “Journey of a Dress” goes to China, 1997 Meatpacking District, as part of a larger part of DVF’s push, which includes DVF relaunches the wrap and a new complex that ultimately includes its social media, to become better known apparel line under the label Diane, headquarters, a 150-seat theater, show- there. Her account on Chinese micro- with Saks Fifth Avenue, rejuvenating room, studio, offices and an blogging site Sina her business. She moves Diane von apartment for the designer. Tabletop, 2011. Weibo picks up 25,000 Furstenberg Studio to a renovated car- ■ First China store opens followers in its first riage house in the Meatpacking District. in Shanghai. Others open few days. ■ Limited alum Susan Falk is named to in Saint-Tropez, Brussels, the new post of president and chief ex- Moscow, Madrid and London. 2012

PHOTO BY ROGER PRINGENT PHOTO BY ecutive officer of Diane von Furstenberg Forbes names von Studio; Catherine Malandrino joins as 2008 Furstenberg the most 1970 vice president of design. Second freestanding powerful woman in Princess Diane von Furstenberg, mar- Japanese store opens in fashion. ried to Prince Egon von Furstenberg of 1998 Tokyo’s trendy Roppongi area. ■ Joel Horowitz joins Austria, arrives in the U.S. with jersey The designer writes her memoir, ■ First Las Vegas store as cochairman. dresses she’d had made in Italy, and “Diane: A Signature Life.” opens at The Shoppes at ■ Yvan Mispelaere the seeds of a fashion business. the Palazzo. departs. 1999 ■ Von Furstenberg becomes ■ DVF teams with 1974 Paula Sutter joins the company as a board member of Vital Gap on a GapKids col- The wrap dress is born, putting Diane president, succeeding Susan Falk. Voices, a women’s leader- lection, and with Roxy von Furstenberg in business. Her slo- ■ DVF is elected to the board of ship organization. on a one-time line of swimwear and gan: “Feel like a woman, wear a dress.” the Council of Fashion Designers of ■ DVF pens “Be the Wonder Woman accessories called DVF Loves Roxy. America. You Can Be, Featuring the Adventures ■ The firm unveils a new store format 1975 ■ The Diller-von Furstenberg Family of Diva, Viva & Fifa,” a DC comic de- at The Forum Shops at Caesars in Las The von Furstenbergs separate. Foundation philanthropic organiza- signed to empower women, with illus- Vegas, with a focus on accessories. ■ DVF launches her first fragrance, tion is founded. trations by artist Konstantin Kakanias. ■ The spring 2013 runway features the Tatiana. ■ DVF outfits all 85 contestants in ■ Von Furstenberg is honored with a launch of Google Glass. vivid cocktail dresses for the opening plaque on Seventh Avenue’s Fashion 1976 number of the Miss Universe pageant. Walk of Fame. 2013 Selling more than one million wrap Paula Sutter departs. dresses lands von Furstenberg on the 2000 2009 ■ Eran Cohen is named chief market- cover of Newsweek. DVF.com relaunches. Marchon wins DVF’s eyewear license. ing officer, Robert J. Almerini joins as ■ DVF opens in the ION Orchard high- chief operating officer and Michelle 1979 2001 end mall in Singapore. Ryan is named to the new post of ex- In-house cosmetics line is developed. DVF’s first freestanding shop opens on ■ With Vital Voices Global ecutive vice president of accessories. DVF writes “Book of Beauty: How to West 12th Street in Manhattan. Partnership, DVF stages an accesso- ■ DVF throws her support behind the Become a More Attractive, Confident ■ Nathan Jenden joins as creative ries competition to enable women in Hudson Yards project and its Culture and Sensual Woman.” director. developing nations to advance their Shed as a potential future home for ■ Diane von Furstenberg Style for ■ The house introduces intimate apparel. businesses. New York Fashion Week. Living Collection for Sears encom- ■ E-commerce is added to the Web site. ■ The brand’s fifth U.S. store opens at ■ A dedicated accessories shop opens passes bedding, bath, curtains, dinner- ■ Von Furstenberg marries Barry Diller. the Shops at Bal Harbour in Florida. in the gallery space of DVF headquar- ware, rugs and furniture. ters, paving the way for a big push in 2002 2010 the category. 1983 Von Furstenberg becomes an The Diller-von Furstenberg Family DVF sells its cosmetics business to American citizen. Foundation establishes the DVF Awards 2014 British pharmaceutical giant Beecham ■ After a 20-year hiatus, DVF signs a to honor and provide grants to women for Fashion jewelry, home fabrics and Group Ltd. worldwide licensing agreement with leadership and commitment to causes. trimmings with Kravet, as well as ■ The von Furstenbergs divorce. Inter Parfums for fragrance, cosmetics, ■ Yvan Mispelaere joins as creative DVF sun and optical frames made for skin care and related beauty products director, succeeding Nathan Jenden. Google Glass, are introduced. 1984 under the Diane von Furstenberg, ■ Von Furstenberg taps the Radio City ■ Michael Herz is named artistic director. Von Furstenberg sells her name and DVF, Diane von Furstenberg The Color Rockettes to perform at the Life Ball ■ Bellevue Square store in Seattle licenses and moves to Paris, starting a Authority and Tatiana marks. A color and opens, two more shops are slated for publishing house under the name Salvy. fragrance line would launch in 2003. Southern California and DVF signs ■ DVF receives a lifetime achievement on for a 2,000-square-foot space at 1990 award from the National Association of Brookfield Place in Lower Manhattan. DVF returns to the U.S. and starts the Women Business Owners. ■ “The Woman I Wanted to Be” mem- process of buying back her name. oir is published. 2003 ■ DVF is tapped to receive the 1992 ■ DVF teams with Reebok’s RBK label Superstar Award at The Fashion Group DVF begins appearing on QVC to sell on a line of tenniswear. International’s Night of Stars in the fall. Silk Assets, an exclusive line of print ■ DVF rugs launch through a partner- ■ The brand marks the 40th anniversa- and solid separates. Sales during her ship with London-based The Rug Co. ry of the wrap with the exhibition and first show are said to total $1.2 million ■ The company’s first shop in Europe Barry Diller, Mayor Michael Bloomberg online series for “Journey of a Dress” in two hours. Her relaxed knitwear, opens in London’s Notting Hill, and a and von Furstenberg at the High Line and teams with E to launch “The DVF called Casual Chic, also a QVC exclu- store opens in Coral Gables, Fla. groundbreaking in 2006. Project,” a competition reality show. PHOTO BY JOAN GARVIN PHOTO BY Amazon Fa shion C ong rat u lates DIANE VON FURSTENBERG ON  YEARS of ICONIC STYLE AND GLAMOUR.

Amazon.com Fa shion Smart is Beautiful. 4 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2014 SECTION II

WWD MILESTONES

DVF’s Confidence Game Reflections on a career — and life — well-lived. By Jessica Iredale

FROM DAY ONE, Diane von Furstenberg. “So women’s causes, how it’s good and how it’s bad. But I Asked where that intuition comes Furstenberg has been a journal- clearly, resonate to me. The first also became the woman I wanted to from, von Furstenberg replied, ist’s delight, a ready-made gift from thing was to empower myself, but the be through fashion — and through “Because I care! I read. I’m read- the press gods. And in the 40-plus minute I was empowered, it was to fashion, that was my way of giving it ing [“Capital in the Twenty-First years since she arrived on American empower other women through my to other women. There’s so many mes- Century” by Thomas Piketty] be- soil — as one half of a young, exotic work, selling confidence.” sages. The message is that it doesn’t cause I care about the distribution

European royal power couple, ready Her mantra of female celebration matter how successful you are, you of wealth. People don’t see it as a to work hard, play hard — there has and power has always been the fiber can still be insecure. But at the same revolution. People pay no attention been no dearth of copy devoted to — jersey aside — of her brand. “Feel time, the big message is, the most im- to what is going around in the world. her story. It’s a fairy tale, really, ex- like a woman, wear a dress,” was the portant thing in life is the relation- I mean, I am engaged. Once you are a cept the Belgian princess ends up directive she wrote to accompany ship you have with yourself. Because little bit successful, once you have a as president — of American fash- her first wrap-dress campaign in if you have that, then any other rela- voice, you meet people.” ion: three terms and counting at the 1972. That spirit’’ remains dynamic tionship is a plus and not a must.” Von Furstenberg has always run CFDA — and her (second) prince today, which finds DVF in a reflec- For all her fascinating history, in an impressive circle. There were charming is a bona fide media king. tive moment. “I’m at the autumn of von Furstenberg is very much a crea- Egon and Barry, of course, but a few Casual research yields an ava- my life, which is nice because it’s ture of the now. “I was so lucky to be of the names that punch up the copy lanche of press clippings chroni- also my favorite season and the af- young in the Seventies and enjoy the of her book include Marisa Berenson, cling four decades of DVF’s fabu- ternoon is my favorite moment of the Seventies and have fun at Studio 54 Yves Saint Laurent, Bernardo lousness and fortitude: her 1969 day,” she said, sitting in the corner of but be young enough to be part of Bertolucci, Andy Warhol, Richard marriage to Prince Egon von a massive purple couch in her pink the digital revolution,” she says. “I Gere. The guest list at her July 4, Furstenberg, who gave her their two palace of an office on 14th Street. love the digital revolution. I love my 1976, party included Mike Nichols, children and her name; her sensa- “It’s a very good time to be, and e-mail. I love the fact that I can intro- Candice Bergen, Louis Malle, Milos tional wrap dresses and her com- now…you know, I’m delusional. I am duce to you somebody else without Forman, Slim Keith and Claudette pany’s resulting fortune. Newsweek! 67 years old. That is old.” ever speaking. It gives me so much Colbert. She’s bonded with Bruce Cloudwalk! Open marriage! Divorce! Springsteen over their love-hate Market oversaturation. Fashion relationship with their curly hair. irrelevance. A string of high-profile Deepak Chopra made a house call to flings followed by a four-year lov- Cloudwalk when von Furstenberg re- ers’ retreat to Bali, then four years I also became the woman I wanted ceived her cancer diagnosis. playing the part of obedient Parisian Exposure like that is not only homemaker. And then — poof! — to be through fashion — and good for networking and business the epiphany that working, specifi- deals but also impacts one’s world cally in fashion, was her identity. through fashion, that was my way view. What does a woman blessed Von Furstenberg made her reentry with the best of the best think of the through the very un-glam back door current global state of affairs? of QVC in 1992. of giving it to other women. “Truly, right now, I am very worried Through the ups and downs, there — DIANE VON FURSTENBERG about the world,” said von Furstenberg, is a consistent figure: Barry Diller, referring to the intolerance and ter- DVF’s billionaire best friend, who rorism emanating from the Middle she married in 2001, forming a union East. “I think it’s never been as that, at the time, WWD described as Von Furstenberg is in legacy mode, flexibility. I have access to every- scary as it is right now for me in my “a bit too Cole Porter for the under- positioning her company for the fu- thing. I can see, learn, everything at lifetime. Who would have thought sophisticated.” Writers have rou- ture using the considerable flash of any time I want. I love that.” we would have religious wars now? tinely described von Furstenberg as her past. In January, she staged her Two years ago, during a preview When I was young, there was none of “feline” and a “catwoman” for her blowout retrospective wrap exhibi- of her spring collection with WWD, that. So, it’s a very scary moment.” seductive purr. She always seems to tion, “Journey of a Dress,” in the for- DVF stopped the walk-through and Von Furstenberg is nothing if not a land on her feet. mer May Department store space in said, “I want to introduce you to consummate optimist. Thus: “But what Lest anyone wonder what could Los Angeles, the final leg of its inter- someone.” Enter Sergey Brin, doing I like about now is this new technol- possibly be left to tell about this national tour, which included South his best to validate the Silicon Valley ogy,” she said. “Thank God. Imagine woman’s life, in addition to this ar- America and China. Her latest mem- stereotype in shower’’ sandals, gym if there were no digital revolution? ticle and the entire, 40-page special oir, “The Woman I Wanted to Be,” fur- shorts and a thermal, a deer in head- All the wealth would be built on in- section in WWD, von Furstenberg thers the brand’s endowment. lights in front of a clique of fashion vestment and real estate. It would be has a new book out this month titled “I was so honest that I almost felt editors. After a round of introduc- so depressing. This new wealth and “The Woman I Wanted to Be.” It’s like I’m at the gynecologist,” said tions, von Furstenberg said some- new ideas and all these people — it’s the sixth she’s written about herself von Furstenberg. “I mean, I hold thing to the effect of “How does it so fun. They don’t really care about and her lifestyle. Other DVF editions nothing back.” feel to shake a $10 billion hand?” money. They want to change the world. include “Diane: A Signature Life,” Oh, yes, a journalist’s delight. She wouldn’t reveal what Brin was They want to conquer Mars, they want “The Table,” “The Bath,” “Beds” Divided into chapters includ- doing in her studio, but, a few days to do all these things, and I think that’s and “Diane von Furstenberg’s Book ing “Roots,” “Love Beauty,” “The later, Google Glass launched on her really exciting.” of Beauty.” There’s also a forthcom- American Dream,” “The Comeback spring 2013 runway. Though Google She, too, is thinking ahead, particu- ing biography called “Diane von Kid” and “The New Era,” the book Glass has yet to gain mainstream larly when it comes to her company. At Furstenberg: Her Own Brilliant gets personal: losing her virginity; traction, it’s on its way courtesy of 67, she has a renewed business focus, Invention” by Gioia Diliberto, which the first time she slept with Diller, von Furstenberg’s fashion eyewear investing in infrastructure so that von Furstenberg mentioned on the when both were so nervous they collaboration earlier this year. DVF, the brand, can thrive once the last Wednesday in July during a two- each took a Valium and fell asleep; Such a partnership is a testament woman herself is no longer involved. hour window she allotted for WWD the first time she actually had sex to von Furstenberg’s instincts, her In October 2013, von Furstenberg’s before sailing off on Eos, Diller’s 305- with Diller; her “girl crush” on Gia ability to see, since her first business then-president Paula Sutter left the foot yacht, until September. Carangi; surviving cancer; her inse- venture, where the culture is going. company. Sutter began working with It’s fair to say von Furstenberg curities about aging, and her many She was, after all, a princess selling DVF in 1999 and was instrumental in would be the kind of girl girls love business impulses and misjudg- affordable dresses based on the de- building back the brand from scratch. to hate if she weren’t a girl’s girl — ments. Anyone remember Diane, the sign of a bathrobe. She also shilled “We were Thelma and Louise,” said a woman’s woman, rather — down to store she opened on a whim in the Diane von Furstenberg Silk Assets, von Furstenberg, referring to the re- her marrow. Sherry-Netherland hotel? her line of washable silk separates, launch with Sutter. “She was 31 and “My mother always told me, ‘It’s “It’s my journey with my faults on QVC before home shopping was had just had a baby. She had so much so important to be a woman.’ I so and my advances,” she said. “I real- a celebrity sure thing. (To be fair, energy, and it was so much fun. And it much like to be a woman,” said von ize how crazily impulsive I am and Susan Lucci was there first.) {Continued on page 6} PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2014 5 WWD.COM

Diane von Furstenberg in her Meatpacking District office. 6 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES Confidence Four Game Decades {Continued from page 4} was really a women’s company. We rode the wave in a big way.” They had a $200 million business. Von Of DVF Furstenberg wanted a $2 billion business. In 2012, Joel Horowitz, the former partner of Tommy

Hilfiger, came on as cochair of DVF’s board. Since then, they have made massive internal changes, Style including the recent hire of Michael Herz as artis- tic director. He comes from Bally and curated the The silhouettes, “Journey of a Dress” exhibition. “I really would love for Michael to be my the prints

Christopher Bailey,” said von Furstenberg. “Right and more, now, my role in the company is to carve as deep here and into the DNA as I possibly can so that the com- pany will be able to live after me. People say, why page 8. do you always say that? Because I always think that way. Everybody that comes to Cloudwalk, I take them to show’’ them where I’m going to be buried. There’s not a day in my life that I don’t Fall think I can die.…So, now, I realize that, OK, my 1970 company should last after me. And, therefore, I want to prepare it.” Von Furstenberg is scouting for a new ceo. The dress exhibition and the book are all part of the boost strategy. Later this year, a television show, “The DVF Project,” will air on the E network. The premise involves young women competing for the role of DVF global ambassador. “She’s got to be more than pretty,” said von Furstenberg. “It’s basi-

Right now, my role in the company is to carve as deep into the DNA as I possibly can so that the company will be able to live after me. — DIANE VON FURSTENBERG

cally about young girls learning about the fashion business. It’s also about all those shows that tell you that if you have fake tits or if you’re the bitch, Fall you win — and this is the opposite. I’m very nur- 1973 Fall 1977 turing, very mentoring. It’s fun.” Maternal warmth comes naturally to von Furstenberg. She exudes it. She interrupts an in- terview to take a call from her daughter, Tatiana, with whom she speaks once a day. One side of their conversation: “Oh, God bless you! I’m so happy for you. I love you so much, Tatiana.’’ I love you so much. And I love the House of the Right Words. I love it. I love it. Yes, I love it. I love it, and I’m so proud of you. And I love you, love you, love you. And I only picked up because it was you, but I can’t speak. OK, God bless. Ciao.” “She bought Norman Mailer’s house in Provincetown,” von Furstenberg explained. She encourages all women to have children. She’s the woman she is today because of her own mother, Lily Nahmias, who survived 13 months in Auschwitz and Ravensbrück. She was 22 years old and weighed 49 pounds when she was liberated from the camps. Pregnancy was not recommended for someone who had been through such physical stress, but von Furstenberg was born a year and a half after Lily’s liberation. Von Furstenberg says it wasn’t until her mother’s death, in 2000, that she realized what an influence her mother had been. Lily was not the coddling type. “She was very tough,” von Furstenberg re- flected. “She was a tiger mother.” Though that wasn’t DVF’s parenting style, she believes in the tiger mom. Asked if her mother gave von Furstenberg her Fall Spring work ethic, DVF said, “No. She told me that I was 1974 Fall 1975 1977 responsible for myself.” PHOTOS BY TONY PALMIERI, PIERRE SCHERMAN AND NICK MACHALABA TONY PALMIERI, PHOTOS BY AN ICON WRAPPED IN AN ICON.

American Express would like to congratulate trusted friend, partner and visionary Diane von Furstenberg on the 40-year journey of her timeless wrap dress.

Photograph by Roger Prigent ©2014 American Express Company. 8 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES Spring 1983

Spring Fall 1982 Spring 1983 1989

Fall Spring Spring 1998 2002 2006

Fall 1998 KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE Spring 1999 Fall 2014

Fall 2010 Fall 2011 PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE, TONY PALMIERI, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, STEVE EICHNER, GEORGE CHINSEE, TALAYA CENTENO, DAVID TURNER AND DAVID CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, TALAYA GIANNONI, STEVE EICHNER, GIOVANNI THOMAS IANNACCONE, TONY PALMIERI, PHOTOS BY CONGRATULATES DIANE VON FURSTENBURG ON THE

ANNIVERSARY OF HER ICONIC WRAP DRESS 10 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES

Twiggs Fit to Print JUST AS THE WRAP DRESS is synonymous with Diane von Furstenberg, prints are synonymous with the wrap dress. Cubes Von Furstenberg’s textiles history predates her most famous sil- houette. Working for Angelo Ferretti’s factory in Como, Italy, in the late Sixties was her second gig in fashion, secured, in typical von Furstenberg form, through her fabulous connections: She ran into Ferretti while gallivanting in Capri with Marisa Berenson, then a client of the fashion photographer Albert Koski, whom DVF was as- sisting in Paris. She traded her photo apprenticeship for a manufac- Chainlink turing one, accepting Ferretti’s invitation to come to his factories, one specializing in prints, another in silk knits and cotton jersey. Von Furstenberg owes a huge debt to her time with Ferretti, from whom she learned many of the techniques she still uses today. There are 15,000 prints in her archive, including what she’s coined the Six Sisters: Twiggs, Cubes, Chainlink, Leopard, Python and the graphic Signature. They formed the visual cor- nerstone of her “Journey of a Dress” exhibition. Asked what makes a good print, von Furstenberg said, “Contrast. Movement is very important. You see, all my prints move, so that when she wears them, a woman feels feline.” — JESSICA IREDALE

Leopard Python Signature

th The Wrap Stories: Women around the Bloomingdale’s will follow suit this Gwyneth Paltrow, founder of Goop, All for the 40 “American world are encouraged to submit month at its Manhattan flagship. a digital media site. “We at Goop TO FETE HER 40TH, one project Express their own “Wrap Story” detailing The public display of affection will all aspire to her honesty, majesty just wouldn’t do. Instead, Diane Unstaged” an experience with the dress or hit overseas, as well, with a window and glamour.” DVF joined forces von Furstenberg this year embarked Q&A. showing how the style has influenced display at Paris’ Galeries Lafayette with Paltrow’s e-commerce venture on a range of milestone-related their lives. Selected essays will be this month. The French retailer will on a limited-edition collection, events and initiatives, sponsored featured on dvf.com. also carry several exclusive styles. due out this month. The collection by American Express, ranging will include a mix of ready-to-wear from a far-away fashion show to a Tokyo Fashion Week: In March, Mini Exhibitions: DVF is globe- and accessories, available for collaboration with Gwenyth Paltrow. the designer traveled to Tokyo — trotting with a series of mini purchase exclusively on Goop.com. — LAUREN MCCARTHY her first trip there in five years exhibitions, which will feature a — to stage a reprise of her fall collection of new and vintage wrap “Journey of a Dress” Exhibition AMEX Unstaged: Following DVF’s runway show. As one of Tokyo dresses that span the past four Book: Forty years boils down to supermodel-filled fall show last Fashion Week’s most anticipated decades. The tour kicked off in 256 pages in “DVF,” a hardcover February, American Express card events, DVF ended the spectacle June in South Korea, and will hit coffee-table book. The Rizzoli members were invited to stay after with a finale of gold gowns and Thailand, Beijing and Shanghai tome, edited by Bill Katz, features for a special treat: a Q&A with the matching confetti. this month. Still to come: Dubai in photos by Helmut Newton, Annie designer, as well as a performance October and London in November. Leibovitz, Francesco Scavullo and by indie songstress St. Vincent. MyTheresa Exhibition: Online retailer many others, with images of the MyTheresa hosted a private event Animated Video: Teaming with artist wrap dress on the likes of Jerry Warhol Collaboration: DVF has Global Influencer Program: DVF in June to celebrate the milestone. and illustrator Konstantin Kakanias, Hall, Iman and Michelle Obama. partnered with the Andy Warhol tapped a slew of fashion’s hottest The dinner included a mini DVF has created an animated video It can be preordered on Amazon, Foundation to produce “Pop starlets, including Coco Rocha, exhibition of DVF’s wrap dresses, as titled “Unwrapped.” The 60-second but lands on bookstore shelves Wrap,” a limited-edition collection Chiara Ferragni, Emma Roberts well as a conversation between the video features a young, fashionable on Nov. 18. of wrap dresses, T-shirts and and Jourdan Dunn, to star in designer and MyTheresa creative woman on the go, dressed in a wrap accessories that combine original her “Journey of a Dress” video director Julia Reed. dress. The cartoon launched July 21 Net-a-porter Collaboration: Starting DVF prints with signature Warhol campaign. The series features social on the DVF Web site. in November, Net-a-porter is designs. Proceeds from sales of media dispatches from each of the Anniversary Windows: In June, von honoring the 40th anniversary of the collection will benefit the subjects wearing DVF’s chain-link Furstenberg celebrated her window Goop Collaboration: “Diane the wrap dress, devoting a special Andy Warhol Foundation, which wrap dress, as well as a monthly display at Bergdorf Goodman epitomizes the 21st century section of its site to the dress and supports contemporary art. Webisode series on dvf.com. with an in-store appearance. archetype of a woman,” said selling exclusive wrap styles. Thank you for sharing your unique talent, inspiring success and genuine warmth. You are a true role model for women everywhere.

Don’t miss the premiere of Diane’s original new show on E!, a series about what it takes to be a DVF Girl. Coming this November. 12 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES An illustration by Hiemstra, 1998. Robe Model A look at the birth — and staying power — of a fashion classic. By Marc Karimzadeh

TO TRY TO ANALYZE THE wrap Hansen, Janice Dickinson and dress silhouette, think of a sarto- Lisa Taylor, and worn by Cybill rial mash-up of a kimono and a chic Shepherd in “Taxi Driver.” bathrobe, draped and tied, in jersey, After von Furstenberg success- and executed in a lean way that flat- fully revived the style, a whole new ters almost any body type. generation discovered it, includ- For Diane von Furstenberg, it ing Paris and Nicky Hilton, Amy took the “Journey of a Dress” exhi- Winehouse, and Michelle Obama, bition and the display of the wrap who chose to wear a black-and- through the years to realize just the white design for the Obamas’ first icon she had on her hands. Christmas card from the White “For a long time, I took it for grant- House, as well as a recent encoun- ed,” von Furstenberg said. “I paid no ter with Kermit the Frog. attention. Then, after I decided to do Madonna wore a green and the exhibition, and saw the dress that white version for a “Spirituality for way, I stopped looking at what the Kids” event in Tel Aviv in 2004, and dress had done for me, which is pay- Ingrid Betancourt, after six years ing all my bills, and realized that the held captive by revolutionaries in dress had something on its own. The Colombia, made the wrap her first dress was more important than I was, fashion purchase. and I was like a conduit for it.” Recently, there have also The look came in many varia- been more screen moments, tions, from the slinky floor-length among them Amy Adams’ char- number sleeveless dress, the off- acter in “American Hustle” shoulder style, the slip design, the and Penélope Cruz in two-piece wrap top with matching “Broken Embraces.” pants, the Chinese-inspired number, “It took me 30 years be- the back wrap and, more recently, fore daring to say that I was the fit-and-flare silhouette. The var- a designer,” von Furstenberg ious patterns — i.e., the designer’s said. “I have never wanted signature or lip motif, geometrics, to make a fashion statement animal and floral prints — also pro- and always said my dresses vided creative points of difference. are friends to the women The design has garnered quite who wear them. But in a celebrity following in the last the end, no one ever has four decades. In the Seventies, it had a dress that lasted was modeled by the likes by Patti that long.” SEE

Above: Spring 2010. Right: Wraps from the Seventies.

Amy Adams in “American Hustle,” 2013.

Cybill Shepherd in “Taxi Driver,” 1976. SHEPHERD PHOTO BY PETER SIMINS; ADAMS BY FRANCOIS DUHAMEL/©COLUMBIA PICTURES/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION; RUNWAY BY GEORGE CHIN BY EVERETT COLLECTION; RUNWAY PICTURES/COURTESY DUHAMEL/©COLUMBIA FRANCOIS PETER SIMINS; ADAMS BY SHEPHERD PHOTO BY

14 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES A scene from “Journey of a Dress.”

Reality of the Wrap What made it right for the time. By Lorna Koski DIANE VON FURSTENBERG has “It’s the kind’’ of thing that really is years indicates that the simplicity and at that time....It was both liberating and been a part of the cultural history of almost beyond fashion, like a chemise, elegance of the style remains relevant empowering, and women embraced it fashion since the early Seventies, when and when I use the word ‘protean,’ I to contemporary women.” in an overwhelming way....This is what she burst upon the New York social really mean it literally,” he continued. The designer herself pointed out that gave it its cultural significance.” scene as part of an “It” couple with her “The way you wrap it, the waistline she wasn’t really thinking of anything as The context of the time of its incep- first husband, Egon von Furstenberg. rises or falls. In the Seventies, it was abstract as the cultural importance of the tion was also important, she added. The wrap dress, which she launched as vivid a signature as a Pucci print dress when she designed it — and she has “In the Seventies, it was very excit- in 1974 and relaunched in 1997, has and it became as much a signature as an extremely clear recollection of just ing, because it allowed a woman to go been her signature, loved and worn by a shape, but it really is the functioning how the signature shape itself was born. to work and still feel like a woman,” she generations of women who have found wrap dress itself that I think is adapt- “I just set out to make little dresses remembered. “I used to count the dress- that it offered them style and security. able and pleasing to most figures.” that were easy, simple and that could es walking up and down Park Avenue. “Diane is a woman of power and All different types of women wore it passion,” said Donna Karan. “Being a then, and all different types of women woman, understanding the body, Diane wear it now, because it is about the indi- brought ease and sensuality to every- All different types of women wore it vidual....It is still unbelievably flattering day dressing. She created an iconic de- and brings the woman into focus.” sign that has withstood the test of time. then, and all different types of women The dress was a star of a remark- Creatively speaking, there’s no greater able show in Los Angeles, the “Journey accomplishment. The wrap dress will wear it now, because it is about the of a Dress,” a retrospective of the live on forever.” wrap, which opened at the former May “You know, I have a very personal individual....It is still unbelievably flattering Co. building on Wilshire Boulevard in memory of the dress,” said Harold January. Koda, curator in charge of the Costume “It is fascinating to see the history and Institute at The Metropolitan Museum and brings the woman into focus. influence one dress has had on multiple of Art in New York. “In 1976, I was generations of women who embraced it going to the ballet a lot, and I remem- — DIANE VON FURSTENBERG for many reasons, from its shape, to ease ber sitting in the [Lincoln Center] plaza of wearing, from the Seventies to today,” waiting, and noticing the number of Koda noted that, although European- be worn everywhere,” von Furstenberg said Michael Herz, artistic director at women who were wearing that wrap born, von Furstenberg is “really in the said. “I had discovered this wonderful Diane von Furstenberg, who worked dress in a small green print or a small tradition of pure American design.” jersey fabric that could be printed, and closely with his boss on the show. black print. I think it had the kind of Valerie Steele, director of The I had started making a T-shirt dress, a When asked whether she had a impact that the Armani suit had for Museum at FIT, said, “When Diane von shirtdress and a great tent dress, short sense, 40 years ago, that her design men in the Eighties. Furstenberg appeared on the cover and long. I then designed a wrap top, would have the longevity that it has, “I think it said a lot that she just had a of Newsweek wearing her now-iconic similar to the wrap sweaters balleri- von Furstenberg responded, “I had no finger on the pulse of contemporary ideas wrap dress, it encapsulated a moment nas wore. I made it with a matching idea! Even when women everywhere of womanhood,” he added. “It was just a in fashion history. Her slogan ‘Be a skirt. It sold really well, and I decided were buying them and they put me on kind of protean item in one’s wardrobe.” Woman, Wear a Dress’ was perfect for to attach the top to a skirt and turn it the cover of Newsweek and The Wall Koda compared the dress to Charles an era in which women were achieving into a dress. The wrap dress’’ was born. Street Journal, I knew that it was a James’ spiraling wrap taxi dress of the equality in the workplace and no lon- Because it had a collar and cuffs, it felt big deal at the time, but did I think I Thirties and Claire McCardell’s shirt- ger wanted to look like imitation men. tailored, but because it was jersey, it would still be talking about that dress dress in “very crisp cotton” of the Forties. The revival of the wrap dress in recent felt to be exactly what women wanted 40 years later? Certainly not.” PHOTO BY JOHN SCIULLI PHOTO BY CONGRATULATES EVERYONE AT DVF ON 40 YEARS OF THE WRAP DRESS! 16 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES was working with and discover- ing new, burgeoning talent in the modeling world for her ad cam- paigns and runway shows. Some of those models included Jerry Hall, Gia Carangi, Iman, Janice Dickinson and Pat Cleveland. While it’s true that just about every “It” model has walked or posed for von Furstenberg, the designer’s eye for new tal- Daria Werbowy ent hasn’t dissipated. She was in DVF’s most among the first designers to use recent fall “It” girls Arizona Muse, Karlie campaign. Kloss and Daria Werbowy, who The Camera Below, Model is the current face of her brand. Danielle Zinaich But in the mid-Eighties, von for DVF’s ad Furstenberg’s business had campaign shot slowed down. Eschewing bank- by Bettina ruptcy, the designer moved Loves You, Darling Rheims, which back to Europe. Determined, Chronicling DVF’s love affair with the media. By Alexandra Steigrad relaunched she eventually returned to the brand. New York in 1990 and began rebuilding her name. In 1997, IT’S NOT QUITE the classic living in New York surrounded she relaunched her company rags-to-riches story of a poor by the who’s who of fashion and with the wrap dress, after she immigrant landing in America her husband, Egon, the prince. saw young women buying the with just a few bucks in his She was selling this simple dresses in vintage shops. She pocket and a dream of finding dress, and it really took off.” played off that theme in her fame in the fashion industry, In March 1972, she landed ad campaign, which was shot but nonetheless, Diane von the cover of socialite glossy by Bettina Rheims, featuring Furstenberg arrived in the U.S. Town & Country with Egon. model Danielle Zinaich. The 44 years ago with the idea of Called “The Couple Who black-and-white spring 1998 making her own name. Conquered New York,” the campaign included two shots of With notions of becoming a cover depicts Diane front and the same model and the quote: designer, the striking young prin- center, while the prince furtive- “He stared at me all night. Then cess, who had married German ly remained in the background. he said, ‘Something about you prince Egon Von Furstenberg But Diane, who was the focal reminds me of my mother.’” just a year earlier, came with a point of that cover, was also on When the brand hired Laird suitcase filled with jersey dresses the rise for her talent as a dress + Partners in 2011, the cre- that she’d had made in a friend’s designer. And she often served ative agency continued von factory in Italy. as her own model. In her first ad- Furstenberg’s playful humor with Although she arrived with far vertising campaign, the designer a surrealist spring 2012 campaign more connections than most, the posed coolly on a white block in by Camilla Akrans. It featured a Belgian-born von Furstenberg a chain-link print dress. On the model wearing a mirrored mask wanted her own identity. She block, she wrote in marker: “Feel over her face, reflecting the sky, achieved that feat quickly, like a woman, wear a dress,” in a sort of nod to Salvador Dalí, charming the media with her loopy cursive that was accompa- and the designer’s motto: “Be the fairy-tale story and good looks. nied by her signature. The photo woman that you want to be.” She would often say: “I would launch her line, and even- According to Hans Dorsinville, didn’t always know what I tually become the brand’s tag executive vice president and wanted to do, but I knew the line, which she still uses today. senior creative director at kind of woman I wanted to be.” And then, in 1974, von Laird, the advertising cam- But by the time she came to the Furstenberg hit on something paigns were just an extension U.S., von Furstenberg did know big. She introduced the knitted of the brand’s roots. she wanted to start her own jersey “wrap dress,” which was “Diane is the embodiment line of women’s clothing. Kick- meant to make women feel ef- of the brand. We asked who starting her business would fortlessly sexy and independent. should this woman be? It was prove to be a natural for her. According to Cohen, the roots very much Diane,” Dorsinville A glamorous, leggy socialite of the brand came from that said, adding that the agency with high cheekbones and an dress and that first campaign. came up with three words that elegant yet effortless style, she “The idea of the brand, this represented the brand: effort- quickly took New York by storm. effortless, sexy kind of feel — it less, sexy and on-the-go. She was photographed often at permeates everything we do,” Using those words and vin- sizzling Studio 54 or catching up he said. “In the Seventies, Diane tage photographs as inspira- with well-heeled friends and ac- was really the face of her brand. tion, as well as signature prints, quaintances like Andy Warhol, That was novel. Even back then, Laird began to piece together Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre she was innovating. In the days how it would devise its cre- Bergé, Diana Vreeland, Halston, before social media, she was so- ative strategy. Along with von Bianca Jagger, Iman and Barry cial, on the plane, going every- Furstenberg, the agency identi- Diller (whom she would later where, meeting with customers.” fied Daria Werbowy as a muse marry, following her 1983 di- Her authenticity resonated. and someone who embodied vorce from the prince). In the Sept. 13, 1976, issue of The the brand and looked like its “Her lifestyle and her busi- New Yorker, the magazine re- founder. It also brought on styl- ness were very engaging,” said ported that the 29-year-old von ist Edward Enninful, who works Eran Cohen, chief marketing of- Furstenberg reeled in $60 million on DVF’s runway shows, so its fice at DVF. “She was a princess in sales in 1975. A year later, the campaigns would maintain a sense of consistency. Von Furstenberg’s Although the brand’s core has first Interview not changed, Dorsinville noted magazine cover, that the agency is working more 1977. on digital initiatives and target- ed outdoor advertising. company said it sold over a mil- magazine put her on its cover He noted that working with lion wrap dresses, and that feat twice, once in 1977 and then in the founder of the brand is “help- landed the designer on the March 1981. She would use the latter ful” — particularly this founder, 22, 1976, cover of Newsweek. cover, Richard Bernstein’s illus- who is constantly looking for- Headlined “Rags & Riches,” tration of her in a Balinese head- ward and striving to innovate. Newsweek hadn’t initially in- dress, as inspiration for her well- “Advertising is always the tended to put the designer on known lips logo, which she uses same. You work with these the cover; President Gerald in her ads, stores and on clothing brands — there’s lots of com- Ford was slated for that lofty and accessories to this day. petition — but you find their honor. But, at the last minute, By 1979, the brand had voice,” Dorsinville said. the editors switched him out, reached about $150 million in “Diane says, ‘Repetition is Cohen said, noting that it would annual retail sales, according to recognition.’ In fashion, things be one of many covers the de- a story in The New York Times. move so fast, but a brand has Diane von Furstenberg’s Newsweek cover, 1976, and the von Furstenbergs signer would nab. Interview Around this time, the designer to have some consistency.” featured on the cover of Town & Country, 1972. PHOTOS COURTESY OF DVF PHOTOS COURTESY

18 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES The DNA of DVF In a wide-ranging discussion of strategy and evolution, cochairman Joel Horowitz details the road to the next level and beyond. By Lisa Lockwood

JOEL HOROWITZ WAS on a golf course the product and no consistency in the in Miami two years ago when he received advertising. That was the bad news. a phone call from his friend Tommy The good news was that the stores and Hilfiger. (Horowitz had been chairman the consumer had great affection for and chief executive officer of Tommy the brand and wanted to see it win.” Hilfiger Corp.) The designer had just had First and foremost, the top priority lunch with Diane von Furstenberg, who was to get Diane von Furstenberg “back wanted to meet Horowitz. in the driver’s seat.” Horowitz said “Tommy had been trying to get me to she had walked away from design and go back to work. We’ve looked at a lot brought in a European designer, Yvan of deals over the years with Silas [Chou] Mispelaere from Gucci, “and gave him and Lawrence [Stroll], and nothing was the keys to the house.” that interesting to me,” said Horowitz, “It was a big mistake,” said who retired from Hilfiger in 2005. Horowitz. “That was the main demand Horowitz said he wasn’t interested I had when I said I would come back in a “real fixer-upper,” taking a com- in. It would be only if she stepped back pany and restructuring it through in to be the creative director of the

cutbacks. Nor was he interested in brand. She is the brand. She created it, something that was really small and it’s expressed in everything she does.” needed to be built from the ground up. In February, DVF hired Michael Herz Von Furstenberg was looking to start as artistic director. Von Furstenberg a board of advisers because she want- brought him on to consult on the exhibi- ed to take DVF to the next level and tion marking the 40th anniversary of the

thought Horowitz might want to join. wrap dress. Herz curated it, and as part “I came up to meet her and we hit it of putting together 200 wrap dresses, he off right away. I got the brand immedi- created 40 new styles to complement 160 ately by seeing her office and how it fit historical wrap dresses. her personality,” said Horowitz. “It was a great audition for Michael, to Von Furstenberg, who had already see if he would be the next person to bring built a personal legacy, talked to ’’ in as artistic director,” said Horowitz. Horowitz about wanting to build a leg- For his part, Herz said, “Diane is some- acy business that could long outlive her, one I have been inspired by as a person he said. He enjoyed the conversation, and designer since I was a design student. but told her that he doesn’t do boards. She surrounds herself with every genera- “But if you sold me part of your com- tion of creative people, and it is inspiring pany, I’d have to be on the board,” he to watch and be a part of every day.” said. “We both laughed. I left, and about “Diane is here 100 percent. She now six weeks later, she called and asked if I has someone she can rely on totally to was still interested, and I said yes.” make sure things get executed accord- Horowitz said he’d done his due dili- ing to brand,” he added. gence, spoken to a lot of people and re- A major initiative at the company tailers, and got “amazing feedback” from is to maximize its accessories offer- everybody. “Her goodwill is so tremen- ings, which at present account for 15 dous. Everyone wants her to succeed.” percent of the business. DVF’s acces- Horowitz returned to have lunch It’s all about the heritage and core DNA sory division is mainly handbags. It with von Furstenberg’s husband, also makes scarves and small leather Barry Diller, and her son, Alex von of what this brand stands for, which is goods. Horowitz explained that when Furstenberg, and they talked at length he arrived at the company, the category about the type of business he would a woman who is confident, ageless. was treated as an accessory to the rtw. want to build. They decided Horowitz It wasn’t set up as a freestanding unit should put together a business plan to — JOEL HOROWITZ with a business head, creative people present to the family to make sure they and sourcing people. Now it is its own were on the same wavelength. division, with its own P&L. The head of “We all agreed, and that’s why I’m said, noting that he wasn’t looking to plan, investing in retail stores, build- the division is Michelle Ryan, who has here,” said the 63-year-old Horowitz. take a business from a couple of hun- ing a stand-alone accessory business been at DVF for a year and previously Named DVF’s cochairman in dred million dollars to $300 million, and continuing to invest in our ready- worked at Jimmy Choo. September 2012, Horowitz was hired $400 million or even $500 million. He to-wear business,” said Horowitz. Naturally, an ambition for the com- to bring a level of professionalism to saw an opportunity to have distribution He added that the strategy calls for pany would be to develop an “It” bag the company and prepare it for an all over the world. To achieve that, he them to more than double the business that would take off and be identifiable as eventual public offering. He is often put several elements into the plan. in a five-year period, “which we’re well DVF. Asked if she is known for a particu- credited with building Hilfiger into an “The company up until this point on our way to doing.” lar handbag, Horowitz said, “Not yet.” international multichannel brand. He had been run purely as a family opera- When Horowitz arrived at DVF, there Opening more stores around the coun- served as Hilfiger’s business partner tion. There was no major investment were 11 freestanding stores in the U.S. try is an immediate objective. DVF has and ceo for 19 years, stepping down as made in the business. All the invest- Today, there are 21 open,’’ and in the opened stores in Seattle, Las Vegas and ceo in 2003 and then becoming execu- ment came from the natural flow of the next seven months, the company plans Scottsdale, Ariz., and will soon open in tive chairman of the board that same business,” he said. “In today’s world, to open another 10 domestic stores. Aventura, Fla.; Miami’s Design District; year, and non-executive chairman of that’s not going to get you very far.” But how does he know there’s enough Glendale and Santa Monica, Calif., and the board in 2005. He retired on Oct. 31, His business plan called for building demand out there for the product? The Grove in Los Angeles. The three 2005, and in 2006, he, along with a man- a major retail network and an acces- In Horowitz’s opinion, one of the new L.A. stores will bring the total in agement group and Apax Partners Inc., sories division within the company for best parts of the business is that in its California to five. There are already units took Hilfiger private. It was eventually handbags and eventually footwear, and 40-year history, the brand has built up a on Melrose Avenue and at South Coast sold to PVH Corp. in 2010 for $3 billion. developing a corporate infrastructure. lot of goodwill, not just in the U.S., but Plaza in Costa Mesa. Horowitz said the reason he doesn’t Obviously, that would take a lot globally. When he joined the company, “I believe we can have 100 stores join boards is that he considers himself a of money. it had a total of 55 stores globally. All of in the next five years,” said Horowitz. hands-on executive: “I either have to be Horowitz met with the family and the international stores were done with Other stores will open throughout 2015 in or out. I’m not one of these people threw out a number based on his past ex- franchised partners, except for the ones at the Americana Manhasset in N.Y. who could sit on three or four boards perience looking at many different com- the company owns in France. and in Atlanta and San Francisco. and give you a 40,000-foot view of some- panies and designing business plans over “The demand for the brand was “We want to start moving into thing. I need to be in the specifics of the years. He said the family put in their there. It was a matter of giving con- Chicago and Houston,” he added. the business, or not at all.” share, and he put in his share. sumers what their expectations for the Horowitz has no big plans to expand Horowitz developed a business plan “We’re now two years into the plan. brand were. And that, quite frankly, the brand’s wholesale base, but he does for DVF that “was based on having the It was a six-year plan with a focus on was one of the issues when I got there,” want to build its business within stores confidence that this brand could be building a corporate infrastructure Horowitz said. “The product had gone that already carry the line. Aimed at the next multibillion-dollar brand,” he that could support the growth in the off brand. There was no consistency in {Continued on page 20} PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY 1EVGLSR'SRKVEXYPEXIW(:*EWXLI]'IPIFVEXIĂþ]IEVWSJ8LI;VET(VIWW

©2014 DIANE VON FURSTENBERG STUDIO L.P. PRODUCED AND DISTRIBUTED EXCLUSIVELY BY MARCHON EYEWEAR, INC. STYLE DVF595S, COLOR 001 BLACK 20 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES Michael Randa for luggage, Marchon for eyewear DVF makes most of its collection in Herz and The Rug Co. for handwoven rugs. China, although it produces some re- Another big push is its international cuts in the U.S. business. Some 40 percent of DVF’s Since Horowitz joined, the infra- The DNA of DVF sales come from overseas. Europe is structure of the firm has grown signifi- {Continued from page 18} the largest market, and it also has a cantly. “It’s not so much the amount of the higher end of the market, DVF sells rapidly growing business in Asia. China people, but the quality of the people,” to stores such as Bloomingdale’s, Saks is currently a big focus for the compa- he said. “Our payroll has gone up con- Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf ny. DVF plans to open 10 to 12 stores a siderably — we’ve hired some very pro- Goodman and Holt Renfrew, as well as year there with a partner, Globalluxe, fessional people.” specialty stores like Scoop and Intermix and will have 18 stores by yearend. Excluding store personnel, DVF has and Web sites including Shopbop.com, Throughout Southeast Asia, includ- added 10 percent to head count and 20 Net-a-porter and Matchesfashion.com, ing Hong Kong, Macau, Indonesia and percent to payroll. which is its partner in the U.K. Malaysia, there are 24 stores, which Over the past year, the company The strongest markets for DVF are were also opened with Globalluxe. has been searching for a ceo and hired New York, Miami, Texas and California. Horowitz said the company is reno- Maxine Martens, of Martens & Heads, During the six years that Horowitz vating its London flagship on Bruton to conduct the search. Horowitz said the was away from the business, e-commerce Street, and will renovate its Paris store criteria for the new ceo would be a mer- took off in the industry, but ironically, he next year. “Both of those stores will chant, first and foremost, with global ex- didn’t make that a big part of his initial mirror what we’re doing here in the perience and a strong retail background. business plan. So when he took the DVF Meatpacking District, a lightly elevated Last year, Paula Sutter, who had served job, he found it interesting how impor- and evolved design concept,” he said, as president of DVF for 14 years, left the tant e-commerce was to the business. adding that they’ve been opening a lot of company and was never replaced. “We do a very sizable dot-com busi- the most recent concept stores with its MICHAEL BUCKNER/GETTY IMAGES FOR DIANE VON FURSTENBERG PHOTO BY Sutter was instrumental in the re- ness. Having been away from the busi- partner in China and Southeast Asia. about the latest hot fashion. But that’s branding and growth of the business ness, I didn’t realize how significant dot- The house also plans to open a few not what this brand is about. Sure, we’re over the past decade. In tandem with com could be. When Diane first told me more stores in Tokyo with its partners. fashionable, but it’s all about the brand. the designer, she spearheaded a “second what percentage of sales the brand does It has a nice business in Turkey and took It’s all about the heritage and core DNA life” for the label, which was best known online, I didn’t believe her at first.” back the Russian license from its partner. of what this brand stands for, which is a for its wrap dress in its Seventies heyday But after doing some research, Currently there are no freestanding woman who is confident, ageless.” and launched a comeback in 1998. Horowitz quickly realized she was cor- stores in Prague or Berlin, but there is a He said the DVF woman is “effort- After Sutter left, the company di- rect. Between their own Web site and shop in KaDeWe in Berlin. less, sexy and on the go,” that she doesn’t visionalized its business. Previously, third-party sites like nordstrom.com, Globally, DVF has 95 full-price need to have the latest things and is loyal everything funneled through Sutter, bloomingdales.com and saks.com, stores, and expects to double that num- to a designer who fits her lifestyle. and there weren’t specific divisions. close to 30 percent of the business is ber in five years. During that period, the In Horowitz’s view, DVF and Theory Now, retail, licensing and accessories generated online. DVF’s online store company’s volume will more than dou- created the contemporary department are distinct divisions. The London of- does more business than any of her ble what it is today, predicted Horowitz. 12 years ago. “Bridge became a bad fice is a wholly owned subsidiary and freestanding stores. At present there are global flagships in word,” he said, “and stores were look- is responsible for its own P&L. Prior to “Diane has always been a leader London, Paris, Brussels, Tokyo, Hong ing to create a new department, with Horowitz’s arrival, it was a sales office when it comes to technology,” Horowitz Kong, São Paulo, Beijing and Dubai. newness and to make it younger, and for accounts in Europe. said. “She’s always invested in dot-com, Horowitz said 60 percent of the busi- contemporary became a buzzword.” Asked if DVF’s business is run dif- both internally and with third parties.” ness is generated in the U.S. He still sees But contemporary is the more so- ferently than Hilfiger’s, he said, “The DVF licenses footwear to Schwartz & great opportunity within the U.S. to grow. phisticated and grown-up version structure is the same.” Benjamin. “That’s a category that needs “I said to the family, ‘You know what of what juniors was years ago: “You Which leads to the question: Can a lot of focus. We should sell two pairs you guys did? You sprinkled your fairy need to be the flavor of the month, and Horowitz orchestrate the same evolu- of shoes for every dress that we sell, and dust all over the world. You have a little there’s no real brand loyalty. What DVF tion at DVF that he did at Hilfiger? we sell a lot of dresses,” he said. bit here, a little bit there, all goodwill, but always had was brand loyalty.” “Does lightning strike more than Next spring, DVF will launch fash- you don’t dominate anywhere. In order to While Horowitz acknowledged that once? If you ask Silas and Lawrence, ion jewelry with Haskell Jewels. The bring the business to the next level, you DVF still has a lot of twentysomething it sure does,” said Horowitz, referring collection includes necklaces, ear- have to be dominant in your home mar- customers, the woman she appeals to to his former Hilfiger partners’ suc- rings, rings and bracelets, retailing ket.’ So that’s why our financial resources is “ageless.” cess with Michael Kors. “I think this from $68 to $628, far below those of are focused here,” he said. “She can be anywhere from 20 to 60- brand has as big a potential as Tommy von Furstenberg’s high-end collection, Over the past few years, the rtw stum- plus,” he said. The sweet spot, he be- or Michael Kors, or I wouldn’t be here. Diane von Furstenberg by H.Stern, bled, but Horowitz believes business has lieves, is represented by the company’s Diane’s [name recognition] and the ap- which has pieces priced up to $100,000. improved, specifically where they had 30-year-old model Daria Werbowy, who preciation and love for the brand defi- The company will start shipping out- lost a lot of ground. “Now, depending on has been the face of the brand for the nitely has that potential.” erwear, which is licensed to Herman the store, some weeks we’ll be the num- past three seasons. As for whether the company might Kay, as a separate classification for fall, ber-one performer on the floor, but cer- In general, Horowitz believes the go public, Horowitz said, “It’s certainly and has home fabrics with Kravet. DVF tainly number two or three,” he said. customer falls into three distinct a possibility. It’s always the best way to no longer makes home furnishings, ex- The company is trying to gradually segments: the go-to-work woman; a realize equity, and it’s important for the cept for rugs. “Not everything was rosy move itself out of contemporary and woman who’s a little bit bohemian and people working here to know there’s a when I got here,” said Horowitz. “There into the designer two world. may work as an artist or curator, and pot at the end of the rainbow. If that’s the were a few deals that needed to be un- “For me, that’s a huge difference. a suburban mom who’s more casual. best way to monetize equity, we’ll go pub- wound. Home furnishings was one of It’s accessible designer. We sit near Red While the emphasis of the company lic. Getting people monetized and giving them, fragrance was another.” Valentino, Burberry Brit and M Missoni. continues to be toward dresses, the them ownership is something I believe in At present, DVF does not have a fra- That’s where we like to sit,” Horowitz brand is adding more casual pieces, strongly,” he said, but added there’s no grance license. Its other licensees are said, noting that contemporary “is whether in rtw or footwear. timetable on when that might happen.

Paula Sutter “When I got there, it was a very small “It was really the beginning of what I “We had really exciting and talented company. It wasn’t a situation where there think was affordable luxury,” she added. people come through our door.” were levels of management. They had a “Contemporary was really an alterna- From the start, she said there was a quite a few licensees. Diane was very pop- tive to designer, and that was what I lot of excitement surrounding DVF and ular on Home Shopping Network. You had was so compelled by, and what I clearly the brand. to unwind and start up again,” said Sutter. thought was the future.” “I think it had a different aesthetic. It Her first priority was to restructure Von Furstenberg liked the idea, the had international appeal very early on,” the business and edit the licensees before family thought it was a great idea, and she said. “It didn’t have an American they could start to develop and grow. they moved forward in that direction, look, it didn’t have a European look. It “It took a couple of years to work said Sutter. kind of had this global flair.” through the past and work through the “We built the business from scratch, Asked what the highlights of her ten- businesses that were developed at a dif- hiring new design and sales teams. ure were, Sutter replied, “There were so ferent time,” she said. It was really the reinvention of a many — too many to mention.” But she Sutter knew from Day One that she brand. It was the Windex-ing of a great did cite such developments as the open- PHOTO BY DAN D'ERRICO PHOTO BY wanted to position DVF in the contem- brand,” she recalled. ing of DVF’s first store in Manhattan’s porary area. Starting with the wrap dress, which Meatpacking District on 12th Street, and Sutter’s Stamp “I went in and explained to Barry was the core of the business and is still a the “Journey of the Dress” exhibition [Diller] and Diane what contemporary very important part of the brand’s DNA, that took place in Shanghai and Beijing. WORKING IN TANDEM WITH Diane was. It clearly wasn’t as developed as it the company developed sportswear and Another highlight was the grand opening von Furstenberg, Paula Sutter, presi- is today,” said Sutter. “It was my strat- segmented into a whole lifestyle brand, and retrospective in São Paulo, Brazil. dent of DVF from 1999 to 2013, was in- egy that we would be the more colorful, said Sutter. “Now they have shoes, and ac- “It was an amazing chapter and we strumental in revitalizing the brand. feminine, print-oriented brand against cessories are being developed,” she said. accomplished more than we could ever During her tenure, Sutter posi- Theory, which was much more urban The entire portfolio expanded as the imagine,” Sutter reflected. “I think there tioned DVF in the contemporary area, and had a different aesthetic. I totally ad- years went on, and the store profile, re- were times that Diane and I would look opened many stores around the globe mired what Theory was doing and what it tail and licensing all expanded. She also at each other and just be blown away by and extended the brand into new cate- was bringing to that contemporary world, noted that she had “an amazing team” the excitement we were creating and the gories and 70 countries, while boosting and I felt we could be in that world and to develop the business. “Your company energy we were creating.” the company’s overall profile. live alongside brands like that very easily. is only as good as your talent,” she said. — LISA LOCKWOOD ! e, e Life Dian natur es of a Sig decad for four URE k you ting F UT Than elebra THE f u in c d ade o in yo ESS an t dec We jo DR firs THE te the lebra ! we ce urney ...as our jo

ne Maxi and Team

Search With Imaginat n Globally Ten years of passion, people, partnerships, and results.

www.maxinemartens.com 22 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES On the Ginza in Tokyo. A Store Thing Expanding the retail footprint on all fronts. By Sharon Edelson

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG is going York, where von Furstenberg is set after bricks and clicks. to open a store at Brookfield Place in The designer, who is known for her lower Manhattan. level of engagement and attention to “We looked at both projects,” Horowitz detail, signs off on every location, from said, referring to the World Trade Center, downtown Manhattan to Dubai. “and felt that the ready-to-wear consumer

The company has an aggressive would shop more in the Brookfield en- growth plan to operate 100 stores in the vironment. The World Trade Center is U.S. in the next five to six years, open going to be more of an impulse-buy con- more international stores and roll out sumer. Brookfield Place is more of a local a new prototype that puts accessories TriBeCa consumer as well as tourists.” in the spotlight. There are other opportunities in New Joel Horowitz,’’ who joined DVF in York. “Certainly Madison Avenue, the 2012, said he took one look at the com- Upper East Side, Upper West Side and pany and determined its biggest growth the Flatiron District,” Horowitz said. “We opportunity was in retail. could have five, six or seven stores in “When I first sat down with the family Manhattan alone. Then there’s Brooklyn.” to present a plan as to how I envisioned With stores in 20 countries beyond growing the business, retail was the major the U.S. — Brazil, Belgium, China, focus,” Horowitz said. “The plan showed France, Germany, Greece, Hong Kong, that we could comfortably open 100 stores Indonesia, Japan, Kuwait, Malaysia, in the U.S. in a five-to-six-year period. Macau, Singapore, South Korea, From there, we’d grow the business based Sweden, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, the on the results of those 100 stores.” United Arab Emirates and the U.K. — [200 U.S. stores] is not a crazy number when you look at our price points and market segment. — JOEL HOROWITZ, DVF

Horowitz said 200 U.S. stores “is not a crazy number when you look at our price points and market segment and how many stores our competitors have. Our focus as a company has been on New York, Florida, California and Texas. We’re looking and have opened stores in secondary markets such as Seattle and Scottsdale [Ariz.]. We’ll be opening a store in Atlanta soon.” ’’ Von Furstenberg still doesn’t have a full-price store in Chicago. “Eventually we’ll open a store in Chicago and all the major cities, based on getting the right locations with the right econom- Accessories in the spotlight in Shanghai; windows in Istanbul. ics,” Horowitz said. “Now that we are back on brand, the company’s biggest global growth is growth opportunity in the U.K., as well with everything that happens in this com- I want our shops all over the world in China. The designer has 47 stores in as throughout the Continent,” Horowitz pany — mobile, social, product marketing, to reflect what DVF is,” said von Asia, including 15 units in China. Four said. “The focus for our own resources retail, sales associates and windows. Her Furstenberg. “I want them to be a one- additional stores are set to open in is for U.S. growth. Once we dominate in vision and eye and attention are here.” stop shop for the woman on the go to China by the end of the year. the U.S., we’ll move on to other territo- The company will continue to up- find effortless confidence and immedi- “We’re well represented in Asia, ries using our own capital.” date other pieces of the Web site. ate solutions to look and feel great.” in Japan, Korea, China and all of Beyond physical locations, however, “We think the redesign reflects the DVF’s Meatpacking flagship will un- Southeast Asia,” Horowitz said. “In the e-commerce is DVF’s single biggest door. brand. It’s not too complex. We feel like dergo renovation in January that will next four years, we’ll have as many as “When I got to the company, e-com- the message is clear.” set the tone for the entire fleet. The 40 stores in China.” merce was independent of retail so it DVF operates four Web sites globally store will have new fixturing and a café. Eight stores will open in Korea this had a separate buying team,” Horowitz from a single platform for the U.S., U.K., “It’s going to be the home of DVF,” year and eight to 10 are planned for said. “There wasn’t a strong consisten- Europe and a world site. “The sites Horowitz said. The most important next year. Japan has 12 locations; there cy for e-commerce versus the customer work for different country currencies change, however, will be the layout and are two each in Taiwan and Singapore; experience in the stores. We want to and markup structures,” Cohen said. the amount of space devoted to acces- four in Hong Kong, with a fifth set to make that experience as seamless as “We’re sensitive to our international sories. Ready-to-wear will move to the bow in Harbour City. possible. Now, all buying is centralized partners. Today, the bulk of our online back of the store and accessories will “I see growth throughout all of under one umbrella.” business is done in North America.” be front and center. Southeast Asia,” Horowitz said. “In The Web site recently got a face-lift. Cohen added that DVF’s customers “The way we’re laying out our retail Macau, we have two stores and we’re “We just updated the home page and are citizens of the world. “Our global stores is we’re overinvesting on the ac- bursting at the seams. We’ll open a the World of DVF,” which includes news consumer isn’t limited by geography. cessories side,” Horowitz said. “We know third store next year.” and blogs from style editor Jessica Joffe A lot of our customers in Europe are that to have a successful retail rollout DVF stores are partnerships or joint and DVF herself. There are also up- Asian and a large percentage of our that’s profitable, accessories has to make ventures in most of the world, including dates on the Wrap 40 initiative, the 40th- customers in New York are Brazilian. up a significant percentage of total sales.” the Middle East, where the company has anniversary celebration of the wrap We don’t think about the country they A measure of the importance of acces- units in Abu Dhabi and Dubai and con- dress, which is being sent around the come from, but as a group of consum- sories is the fact that 40 to 50 percent of tinues to look at different opportunities. world and worn by “It” girls. ers, we think about what they like.” the store will be given over to the category. France is the only country where DVF “We’re going to continue to upgrade The company is always looking “As of now, sales are nowhere near that operates company-owned stores; two are the content,” said Eran Cohen, chief at new technology, he noted: “We’re percentage,” Horowitz reported. “Our goal in Paris and one is in Saint-Tropez. marketing officer. “We’re starting Diane’s deciding what we’ll test and what we’ll is to get accessories to be 50 percent of “We have a partnership in the U.K. Diary, so Diane will be writing weekly or engage with. Diane loves technology. A sales. It will take three to four years to get with Tom Chapman for four stores in biweekly. The World of DVF is really ev- lot of people come knocking on our doors there. Today, the classification accounts Mayfair, Notting Hill and Wimbledon erything that surrounds us and the brand. because Diane is a known innovator and for a little over 10 percent of sales.” in London and an outlet at Bicester “Diane is really happy with where is known to take risks and try something There’s another activity in New Village in Bicester. We see a lot of we’re going,” Cohen said. “She is involved new. That makes it exciting for us.” HAPPY ANNIVERSARY, DIANE VON FURSTENBERG. Fashion speaks louder than words. Your wrap dress—forever perfect. 24 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES Google Glass on the DVF runway in September Tech-Savvy Style 2012. DVF demonstrates a keen understanding of the power of the digital space. By Rachel Strugatz

SINCE THE INCEPTION of her compa- ny, Diane von Furstenberg has been an Google’s Sergey Brin and Diane von Furstenberg at the expert on communicating the message of spring 2013 show introducing Google Glass. her brand. And with the advent of social media and exponential growth of digital technology, the company has maintained its position as one of the more tech-savvy brands in the fashion space. Most notably, the designer’s spring 2013 runway was the launching pad for Google Glass, in September 2012. Last June, the brand partnered with Net- The brand started rolling out its digi- a-porter on a collection of optical and tal-centric 40th anniversary in February sunglass frames, DVF Made for Glass. with “Journey of a Dress,” a series docu- The e-tailer was the first Web site (be- mented via social media of different in- sides Google) to sell Glass, in the form fluencers around the world wearing von of a $1,700 prepackaged bundle — com- Furstenberg’s New Jeanne Two wrap prising Glass, a DVF optical frame and dress in a black-and-white chain-link a sunglass style in varying colorways. print. Coco Rocha kicked off the program, Last year, DVF became the first and Emma Roberts, Jourdan Dunn and in a series of designers to work with 10 bloggers worldwide — from Chiara the Council of Fashion Designers of Ferragni of The Blonde Salad to Jessica America and Google on a shoppable ex- Stein of Tuula Vintage — also docu- perience that allowed users to purchase mented their “wrap story” on their social from a Google+ Hangouts on Air app. media channels, dvf.com and YouTube. “Everything in the company has her “Journey of a Dress” will run through [Diane’s] involvement, and she’s no less November, and to date, the associated engaged in social [media],” Eran Cohen, hashtag has seen more than 25,000 shares. DVF chief marketing and direct-to-con- Von Furstenberg wanted fans to get sumer officer, said. “You see her posting involved, too. Hundreds of customers selfies before she’s going to the Met Ball worldwide submitted personal wrap or getting her nails done. They are real dress stories via “Tell Us Your Wrap photos. They aren’t retouched and de- Story” at dvfwrapstory.com. veloped — these are genuine.” “Like everybody, we have core plat- The brand is active on myriad so- forms and then ones that we are pres- cial networks, including Facebook, ent on but are not as prolific as oth- Google+, Twitter, Instagram, YouTube, ers,” Cohen said, noting that overall, Pinterest and Tumblr, as well as Asia- Instagram probably sees the most en- based platforms like Sina Weibo, gagement. “The world is enamored with WeChat, Youku, Tudou and Douban Instagram, people engage visually.” (the brand will start to use Korea’s In an interview with WWD last Naver this fall). Diane von Furstenberg spring, von Furstenberg said, “It has reached 2 million followers this sum- to be organic; you can’t strategize mer on Sina Weibo, the Chinese micro- Instagram months in advance. It’s called blogging service similar to Twitter. Instagram — it has the word ‘insta’ in it.” It’s even taken a localized approach But social media is more than just a on Twitter — at the store and market level brand awareness tool, Cohen explained, (handles exist such as DVFNewYork, emphasizing the “extra impact” an DVFSouthCoast and DVFIndonesia) image can have if it goes viral in the — and posts on Facebook are geo-tar- social space. For example, when Kate geted in countries including Belgium, Middleton was shot wearing an ikat Indonesia, Korea and Thailand. print dress while in Australia in April, According to Cohen, two social in the course of hours, it became one of media teams — one that works on exe- the most searched items on dvf.com as cution and one that concentrates more well as on partner sites. on strategy — manage the brand’s digi- “It sold out in an instant,” Cohen tal presence. There is also a dedicated said of the dress, adding that the brand team for World of DVF, a blog that von itself didn’t post the image on social Furstenberg will again begin to con- media. “It had an enormous impact tribute to biweekly (she has penned on sales of that dress, as well as other content for the blog in the past). items in that same print.”

Blogger Chiara Ferragni Eran of The Blonde Salad is Cohen an influencer in the “Journey of a Dress” online series.

A dress worn by the Duchess of Cambridge in April became one of the most searched items on dvf.com and other sites, and sold out after being posted on social media. BRIN PHOTO BY GREG KESSLER; RUNWAY BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI; COHEN BY GEORGE CHINSEE; DUCHESS BY PHIL NOBLE/WPA POOL/GETTY IMAGES PHIL NOBLE/WPA GEORGE CHINSEE; DUCHESS BY GIANNONI; COHEN BY GIOVANNI BY GREG KESSLER; RUNWAY BRIN PHOTO BY

26 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES Necklace and cuff (below) from the upcoming costume jewelry launch with Haskell Jewels. The Future Has Bling Accessories will play a significant role in the growth of the company. By Lauren McCarthy

AS DVF HEADS INTO its fifth decade, the company is bank- ing on accessories — and it has big plans to make them a powerhouse category. “Accessories are ex- tremely important,” said Joel Horowitz, the company’s co- chairman. “When I came to the company two years ago, I presented a business plan that There will called for significant invest- also be a much ment in the accessory busi- bigger effort online ness of what we would do in- with digital marketing, where ternally, as well as licensing.” we can focus on special catego- Horowitz estimated that, ries of business, which you don’t upon his arrival, accessories Home fabrics from Kravet and an area rug from The Rug Co. tend to do in national ads.” made up less than 10 percent DVF accessories are of overall sales. Today, that such an extension of the ready- Spring sunglasses sold in retailers including number has risen to 15 per- to-wear that we already do. I from Marchon. Bloomingdale’s, Neiman cent, and it continues to grow. would like to get it to the point Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. “The plan calls for it to be where we are selling, at least “DVF accessories convey almost 50 percent of the total in our own stores, a couple of the whimsical and sophis- business in a five-year period,” pairs of shoes for every dress.” ticated appeal the brand is said Horowitz. “Accessories are Handbags are, notably, so well-known for in ready- a significant part of our future.” the only accessory category to-wear,” said Erica Russo, Handbags and footwear DVF handles in-house. For Bloomingdale’s operating vice are expected to be the driv- all others, the brand enlists president of fashion direction, ing factors; the categories are outside help from a number fashion accessories. “[The tied for biggest sales-genera- of licensees: Haskell Jewels DVF customer] is a worldly, tors among the brand’s acces- (costume jewelry), Herman fashion-forward female who sories offerings. Kay (outerwear), Schwartz & identifies with the cultured Benjamin (footwear), Randa lifestyle that Diane lives per- Handbags (luggage), Kravet (home fab- is successful, independent, “It is so well-placed for the sonally and inspires us [to are handled rics), Marchon (eyewear), H. feminine and fearless — all brand,” he explained. “Just a live] through her designs.” in-house. Stern (fine jewelry) and The attributes that are easy to couple of weeks ago, they sold To illustrate just how seri- Rug Co. (hand-woven rugs). identify with.” a $98,000 bracelet. When you ous the company is about build- “There are a few reasons Haskell Jewels, which pro- get items like that sell and ing the accessories business, to do something with a license duces DVF costume jewelry, have such a waterfall effect on versus in-house,” explained is the latest addition to the li- the whole brand, it does very Horowitz. “First, [it’s about] censee roster, with initial prod- nicely. It will never be a big per- who is the best to design, uct due out for spring. The cat- centage of the business, but, as produce and execute the egory, according to Horowitz, an add-on to the brand, it fits business. When you look was a no-brainer for the brand. in perfectly for what the brand internally at what your “Any category that we go into stands for.” core competencies are, you has to be a natural extension of Synergy between DVF rtw have to be realistic from a what the brand stands for,” he and accessories remains a personnel standpoint, an said. “Diane has one of the most constant driving factor, es- expertise standpoint and a extensive jewelry collections pecially when it comes to financial standpoint. When in the world, and we have this future expansion. it came to handbags, we felt long relationship with H. Stern “The most important it was something we want- for fine jewelry, so it just made question that you have to ed to control internally. We sense to do a fashion jewelry ask is: Is the brand legiti- were able to have the rela- line that’s more affordable for mate to be in that product tionships from sourcing and most consumers out there. It category to begin with?” creative standpoints. That also gets more product of ours said Horowitz. “You don’t want became the natural product onto the main floor in depart- to put your name on different expansion for us to focus on ment stores, which gets you products just because you have internally. Footwear is much more of an entry-level custom- a brand name that people like. more specialized. It’s a much er, which you can then move to You can sell virtually anything “They will probably remain more complicated business. other categories, such as ready- with a good name, but you want Horowitz points to recent chang- fairly equal in size [in terms There are many more sku’s.” to-wear or handbags. The fash- it to be legitimate to the brand. I es within DVF’s own stores. of sales] because I think they Barbara Schwartz, direc- ion jewelry just expands your wouldn’t go into men’s neckwear “One of the major invest- have equal importance,” said tor of product development consumer base.” tomorrow. We could probably sell ments that we’re making in Horowitz. “However, if you at Schwartz & Benjamin, de- Horowitz noted that while a lot of DVF printed ties, but all of our stores is the square include small leather goods scribed DVF shoes as “comfort- fine jewelry is not a signifi- men’s wear is not something footage dedicated toward ac- in the handbag category, then able, affordable and on trend.” cant contributor to over- that is on our radar.” cessories,” he said. “While ac- that would outrank footwear.” “One thing Diane always says all sales, the category Beyond the products cessories is now 15 percent of In the coming seasons, is, she loves her legs but counts remains important themselves, DVF plans our overall sales, we’re allocat- footwear will receive a major on her feet, so she loves work- to the company. to ramp up the acces- ing approximately 40 percent of push, with new offerings in ing with us on shoes,” Schwartz sories business by square footage in our stores to the casual market. said. “The shoes are very much investing more in accessories because we believe “Up until spring 2015, we’ve like her key phrase: sexy, effort- marketing and pub- that, in order to build the busi- been 80 percent, if not more, less and on-the-go.” lic exposure. “We ness, we have to do it ourselves. focused on evening,” said Marchon’s senior vice presi- will add accessories To show that we’re a real play- Horowitz. “The whole world — dent of global marketing, Mark to national advertis- er in the space, we have to not just in footwear — has been Ginsberg, attributed DVF’s ing,” said Horowitz. do the investment ourselves. moving to a more casual look. success in eyewear to the “We have been fea- Therefore, we’re allocating a So, a big expansion for us will designer’s wide appeal. turing handbags, and disproportionate amount of be on the casual-footwear side “It is trans-gen- we will be including square footage to the size of of the business. For spring, the erational, attract- footwear as we move the business today, but, even- collection will be [split] 50-50 ing women from Stiletto from forward, as well as tually, that is our goal. I want between casual and dress. 18 to 80,” he said. Schwartz & other licensed prod- accessories to be 50 percent of Footwear is a license, and it’s “The DVF woman Benjamin. ucts, like jewelry. our revenue.” CONGRATS! DIANE VON FÜRSTENBERG

Cheers to 40 fabulous years of your iconic wrap dress that forever changed the world of fashion. 28 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES With Andy Warhols on the wall. “I love getting to work with Diane. We are both very involved with the High Line and with everything that happens in the neighborhood around it, so we are usually talking about what might be good for the community. It could be about a business or nonprofit initiative in the neighborhood that needs our help or about an event we’re working on together or about a piece of mer- chandise Diane is designing to sell in our High Line shop. I’ve learned so much from her. When she expresses an FOR PHOTOS OF DIANE WITH opinion, it sounds like poetry to me.” SOME FAMOUS FACES, SEE — Joshua David, cofounder and WWD.com/eye. president of Friends of the High Line “Meeting Diane was a crucial moment in my life. Her energy, strength, confidence, humor, elegance and ever-young spirit are contagious. Her first biography was such an inspiring read, I was hooked. She taught how life is not only a straight line — mistakes happen or, simply, some- times things don’t go how you thought they would [or] should. But you show who you truly are exactly in those moments. I absolutely can’t wait to read the new one. Life with her is such a fun ride!” On the Divan With Diane — Elisa Sednaoui, model-actress Diane von Furstenberg has racked up friends all over the globe. With myriad interests “With her style, Diane von Furstenberg and pursuits, she is the quintessential conversationalist. At least, that’s what her has represented the emancipation of women without renouncing glamour. friends and colleagues say — so WWD asked about their impressions and what they She herself personifies the values of like to talk about when they have some face time with the lady. her style and is an iconic figure of the fashion world. Thinking of her, there “One of the things I love about DVF is French politics because I’ve inter- “Diane is such a remarkable and interest- are images in our memories of New that there’s nothing you can’t talk to her viewed a lot of French politicians and ing woman — I have never met anyone so York’s Factory, parties at Studio 54, about. She is engaged with the world I had an apartment there for 10 years. driven. I have great respect and admira- the fun and freedom of that moment, around her in a way few others are. She has an apartment there. She’s tion for her accomplishments, both in her which, with her fashion, she has re- She’s been everywhere, knows everyone, much more French than I am. We have own career and in what she has done to counted and continues to recount.” and is interested in everything. History, a lot of friends [whom] we share from expand the influence of the CFDA.” — Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo politics, world events, technology, love, France, whether they be writers, in film — Francisco Costa, Calvin Klein Collection Piccioli, Valentino creative directors life, music, art — nothing is off-limits.” or businesspeople — people I’ve known — Anderson Cooper because of my interest as a journalist. “DVF is one of the most fun people to “She has been a dear friend for years, “I obviously don’t know anything about talk to because she’s a globe-trotter, in- but my perception is objective. She used “Of Diane, I admire the verve, the posi- fashion, so we don’t talk about fashion terested in everything, who knows and to buy my jerseys in great quantities, and tivity and the irreverent spirit — [charac- much. We talk a little about building a sees everybody — so there’s nothing I I would travel to New York to see her. I teristics] that are reflected in her fashion. business. I’ve watched her build a busi- don’t like to talk to her about.” have followed her design and entrepre- Although very different from me, we both ness and her business acumen. We talk a — Andy Cohen neurial trajectory with great admiration. believe in emancipation, from opposite bit about people that we know and share She has left a significant mark in the corners and with opposite results but the enjoyment of their company and “My relationship with Diane started world of entrepreneurial associations with the same conviction and the same their success. I’m working so hard with while I was applying for the Vogue and done noteworthy things. Often, good passion. Her wrap dress is part of history: four shows now that I don’t see her as CFDA Fashion Fund. From the moment entrepreneurs are the worst examples of It sums up the lightheartedness of an era much as I would like to, and I wish I had she came into my CFDA incubator stu- managers of associations, but she excels but has become a timeless classic.” more time to....I simply love her. She’s an dio and sat on a broken chair to when we at both. In my role, I have had problems — Giorgio Armani amazing woman.” — Charlie Rose reenacted ‘The Graduate’ for a Harper’s with others but never had any difficulty Bazaar story to when she came to Nepal in finding an accord with her. I can only “When we get together, we always speak “I know Diane since she first arrived to visit my family and I and over the speak highly of her. She is an excellent about two things: children and grand- in New York, and we have a friendship course of many a lunch and cups of cof- communicator, and she is a well-round- children. Diane has always had a clear that, I am lucky to say, has lasted with fee, we have had so many wonderful con- ed, fully comprehensive person.” vision in life. That’s why she has been no blemish ever since. I admire her versations. We talk about anything from — Mario Boselli, president of the Camera such a success in everything she does.” capacity for endless love, integrity and professional career decisions and paths Nazionale della Moda Italiana — Carolina Herrera loyalty. She has lived a full life without I come across to personal relationships. ever compromising her goals. To me, We discuss steps to spirituality, our love “Diane is an extraordinary person. She is “We go back a long way and we share a she is the best example of a life fully for hiking, trekking and our shared love totally individual in spirit and thought.” lot of memories, so, when we talk, it’s lived. I am so lucky she is my friend!” for exotic lands. We have talked about — Erdem Moralioglu very intimate, personal and cozy, our — Oscar de la Renta everything under the sun and always conversations. We share our feelings, our with absolute passion.” “She is the brother I never had, a per- struggles, what we’re doing. We laugh a “Diane is a fascinating woman who leads — Prabal Gurung fect mix of sex, strength and sensibility. lot about lots of things. She has a great a fascinating life. I love just listening to We talk about anything — love, passion, sense of humor about life, and I do, too.” her, learning from her. Her take on things hate — never about fashion.” — Marisa Berenson is so positive that she gives me more A PRESIDENTIAL EXCHANGE: Diane von — François Catroux, interior decorator hope than I normally have. She is very Furstenberg of the CFDA e-mailed Didier “Because fear is not an option in DVF’s strong and opinionated, and I love hear- Grumbach of the Chambre Syndicale in “She likes to discuss everything, but world, she is great to talk to when you ing her opinions. They come from a place June 2012, upon both of them being she’s not very much into small talk. want to gain confidence and support. I of knowledge and deep understanding. reelected at their respective organizations: Diane loves to talk about her family, like to discuss projects and ideas with She’s the best person to go to for advice, French news, politics, her hair, travels her. She will always believe in you and somehow managing to combine the prac- DVF: and all new books. With me, she is very make things happen. She likes to help to tical and the profound. We talk a lot about Congrats on your re-election! European, and she always stays on top make your dream come true and would family, about what it means to be a wife I just got re-elected too! of what’s going on in France. New tech- have no time to spare for complaints or and mother. I don’t think we’ve ever had What can you do? Either we’re the best nologies fascinate Diane, [as does] all why it is not possible. I also like to talk a conversation about fashion...there’s too or nobody wants these duties! that has to do with women and women’s with her about any woman’s issue be- much else to talk about!” — Ellen Barkin Have a good summer… rights and, above all, travels — no lux- cause she thinks out of the box and is a Love ury, but cultural travels, focused on ar- free spirit. A great role model that [helps] “Diane von Furstenberg has contrib- Diane tisanship and people. She also loves to you remember how powerful a woman is.’ uted to the fashion industry in so many discuss and rediscuss her friends — and — Anh Duong important ways and, in doing so, has be- DG: that never stops.” — Christian Louboutin come an icon, inspiring so many others, Dear Diane, “She has an interest in the world she including me. Her unique creative vision, Thank you and bravo. “Diane is one of the very few people lives in and all the factors that affect her steadfast commitment to helping the We are relentless. in the world with whom I can share my it. She’s fascinated by people, how they industry prosper and her actions on be- See you soon, deepest fears and concerns, and who are and the way they are. She’s a wit- half of female empowerment are all hall- All the best, is going to always understand me and ness to excellence....I talk to her about marks of an incredible career.” Didier give me the best advice.” everything, but we often talk about — Frida Giannini, Gucci — Natalia Vodianova, model-philanthropist PHOTO BY JOHN SCIULLI PHOTO BY ATTORNEYS AT LAW

Congratulations to Diane von Furstenberg on the 40th Anniversary of her iconic wrap dress from Steven Gursky and all of us at Olshan.

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WWD MILESTONES “I mean, he knew nothing about fashion other than being gay,” is how she put it. Reed Krakoff described von Furstenberg as a “force of nature, someone with incredible energy. She is able bring together people from every different world that fashion exists in, Queen D from politics to the arts, design, archi- Finding a way to grow and nurture the CFDA tecture and the film industry. Her reach is so broad and holistic that she is able and its members. By Marc Karimzadeh to make incredible things happen.” Added Michael Kors: “With her leg- endary Diane-ness, she has brought a FAMILY IS A WORD Diane von whole new spotlight on the CFDA over Furstenberg uses quite frequently the last eight years. At her core, Diane

when she talks about the Council of is a nurturer — she not only recognizes Fashion Designers of America, where young talent, she embraces it. She goes she’s had an eight-year run as presi- out of her way to foster creativity and dent that was just extended by another to help others, and the network she’s two-year term. created within the CFDA reflects that.” For her, family as a theme applies Tommy Hilfiger cited her fearless-

personally as well as professionally. ness and “enormous heart. She really Remembering her journey to the apex cares about the other designers, wheth- of the American fashion community, er they are competitors, young design- she recalled, “I had sold my company, ers coming up, established designers or had gone to Paris and come back. I re- designers who are trying to stay afloat. alized that my business, my fashion, my She has a wide network of incredible re- brand was so much a part of my identity ’’ lationships and friends. Her charisma, and losing it was really painful.” personality and motivation are enor- Residing once more in New York, mous and the board meetings are fun.” where she had made a name for her- In fact, when asked about von self in the Seventies, she received a Furstenberg’s management style at phone call from Stan Herman. CFDA meetings — often wildly entertain- “He asked me to join the board,” ing while also getting the job done — the she said. “I felt like such a loser and As president of the Council of Fashion Designers common reaction is “no comment,” fol- an outsider that when they asked me to of America, Diane von Furstenberg has revamped lowed, when pressed, by some off-the- join the board, it made me feel good. It and significantly grown the organization. record tale about an amusing exchange made me feel like I belonged.” between the president and a designer, The fashion family warmly welcomed or a remark by von Furstenberg that is so her back, and not only honored her with over-the-top, it can’t be printed. a Lifetime Achievement Award after her “She likes to boss me around some- successful comeback, but also put her When they asked me to join what,” Vera Wang said. “She says, ‘Sit on the committee to find the next presi- down, Vera, sit down here.’” dent to succeed Herman. the board, it made me feel good. Recalling lunches at the DVF offic- “I think the fact that I became presi- es, where the CFDA board would meet dent and I said I wanted to make it like It made me feel like I belonged. before relocating to Bleecker Street, “I a family, is because I had that feeling of would get myself a plate and the food belonging to it,” von Furstenberg said. — DIANE VON FURSTENBERG was always so insane that I would get She spearheaded much change in up and sometimes get a second round,” the American industry since taking up Wang said. “The year I was nominated the role — the list of accomplishments “It’s changed so much for young de- mortals, she has no fear. People sense that for the Lifetime Achievement Award, is extensive. signers,” she added. “It was 9/11, and about her in the loveliest, friendliest way.” Diane said, ‘Sit down, you’re gonna During her tenure, the designer out of 9/11, Anna [Wintour] decided to She added, chuckling, “They are like this meeting.’ I said, ‘OK, ma’am,’ significantly grew the CFDA member- do something and created the CFDA/ happy to ride along — in her beautiful and I sat down. At the end of the meet- ship — which, at the start of 2006 was Vogue Fashion Fund. That was a revolu- green Bentley. She is our role model. ing, Diane said, ‘And for the Lifetime 271 and is now at 478 — with not just tion for the fashion industry. Everybody She greets you with a hug and a kiss and Achievement Award, it’s you.’ That’s designers but also creative directors of has been so generous. Although we is very personable. She brings you in. how Diane is. She cuts to the chase. I brands, including contemporary ones. compete with one another, there is a That takes a lot, especially in our indus- think she is hysterically funny, yet she She focused on important indus- camaraderie and a loving spirit, and we try because a lot of us have walls up, but is on the ball and very dedicated.” try issues such as the need to protect are all about helping each other.” she doesn’t. She says whatever is on her Rag & Bone’s Marcus Wainwright original design and fight counterfeits, The sentiment was also key to mind — and she has’’ earned that right.” said her contributions have been and supporting young talent in tan- Fashion’s Night Out, the shopping Ralph Lauren lauded her “legendary “massive,” and she was able to dem with Anna Wintour via the CFDA/ event that, in the U.S., was a collabora- and ongoing” contribution to fashion. achieve so much because of her stat- Vogue Fashion Fund. tion between the CFDA, Vogue, NYC & “But never one to sit back, she has fur- ure, her own fashion and her person- Von Furstenberg also upped the or- Co. and the City of New York. ther inspired us with eight years of her ality. “She is larger than life,” he said. ganization’s networking potential by Promoting education is another key energetic leadership of the CFDA,” he “She also makes it fun. Sometimes, launching the Strategic Partnership part of von Furstenberg’s tenure, work- said. “This unselfish commitment to pre- being on something like [the CFDA Group in 2007. Elsewhere, she ing with domestic and international serve and grow the prestige of American board] could be a bit of a chore but worked with the Mayor’s office on the schools, as is the push to stimulate do- fashion is characteristic of Diane’s per- I actually quite look forward to it Fashion Incubator program, as well mestic manufacturing via the Fashion sonal integrity and determined spirit.” because she is priceless. She comes as the Culture Shed that is part of the Manufacturing Initiative. Steven Kolb, the CFDA’s chief exec- out with phenomenal quotes, there Hudson Yards Redevelopment Project For models, the emphasis on more utive officer, cited many attributes that is just an endless stream of amazing and could one day be a home for New diversity on the runway and the Health make von Furstenberg’s leadership comments. I don’t think I could repeat York Fashion Week. Initiative have been at the core of von role at the CFDA so unique. half of them. She is so irreverent.” “The truth is we cannot just have one Furstenberg’s philosophy at the CFDA. “She is a business person and work- But, he stressed, “She has galva- place [to host fashion shows],” she said. Before each collections season, for ing designer and understood the global nized the industry in an incredible The CFDA is also looking to example, she sends out a letter to the fashion community, all of which added way. Everyone loves her. Everyone strengthen the overall New York industry that serves to reinforce guide- a lot of validity to her experiences and wants to be part of the CFDA because Fashion Week brand as an umbrella for lines, which range from a minimum how she could contribute to the orga- she is president. Everyone loves com- the various facets from Mercedes-Benz model age of 16, to not allowing models nization and its members,” Kolb said. ing to the board meetings and being Fashion Week to Made, a collection of under 18 to work past midnight, to sup- “My favorite story was right in the be- involved, because we all feel lucky to shows at and around Milk Studios. plying healthy meals, snacks and water ginning [of her tenure], when she said be a part of the CFDA these days. It’s Most recently, the CFDA acquired backstage and at shoots, as well as fit- that she can scream to the Italians nearly impossible to think of someone the Fashion Calendar, a move that ness and nutrition education. in Italian, and beg to the French in to replace her. That’s how good she is.” aims to streamline the scheduling of As for diversity, the CFDA Founders French. She has done that in the eight For her part, von Furstenberg has fashion shows and events in New York, Award given to Bethann Hardison, a years she has been president. not lost any of the joy in governing the which, with more than 350 shows a sea- champion of diversity in fashion, un- “So many companies come to Diane disparate crew that is the American son, has become quite challenging for derscored the organization’s commit- to do something with her and she sees designer community. those involved. ment to the issue. the value, the merit in it, but if it’s not “It’s fun also because you can make a Initially, she said, her goals includ- “When Tracy Reese suggested we on brand for her, she comes to me,” he difference,” she said. “I get a lot of pub- ed making the CFDA “a family, and I do something for Bethann [at the board added. “When it’s not right for her, it’s licity around the world. Wherever you wanted the membership to be a little meeting], we all looked at each other often right for the CFDA.” see the initials DVF, there is the wrap younger,” von Furstenberg said. “I also like we were idiots. ‘Yeah, of course.’” The two also have their fun. During dress, and now there is the CFDA.” wanted the world out there to be able to As Reese put it, “No door is closed to the interview, von Furstenberg made a Von Furstenberg has a clear idea of associate with it, which is why we cre- Diane. If she has an idea or we have a point that Kolb learned how to dress what she wants her CFDA legacy to be: ated the Strategic Partnership Group. dream that might seem too high for most once he joined the CFDA. “That I was a great mother.” PHOTO BY ALEXANDER PORTER/BFANYC.COM PHOTO BY

32 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2014 SECTION II

WWD MILESTONES Along Life’s Journey Diane von Furstenberg shares some of her private side. By Rosemary Feitelberg

PERIPATETIC AS HER LIFE may be, else, maybe it is making an introduction, Diane von Furstenberg recently took some or just sending a nice note, something time to run through what goes on before, that does not benefit me at all. Then I’ll after and in between all that work. have a few meetings, I practice yoga, and maybe I have a friend for dinner or go out WWD: When your family is with you, to a party.…I like to finish the evening what do you like to do with them? reading and catching up on e-mails. Where might the conversation go? Do The apple orchard at Cloudwalk, the von they often ask for advice? WWD: In which room do you tend to Furstenberg estate; Diane’s green Bentley. Diane von Furstenberg: My family and I spend the most amount of time? love to travel and to be outdoors…we D.V.F.: My office, because I work there love to hike. We will go on the boat or and I have meetings there. I have D.V.F.: Well, I tend to be an open book! It WWD: How did you decide on the color on an adventure, or we relax at home friends for lunch and dinner there, and is not the most exciting or juicy detail, of your car? in Connecticut. I have always treated my studio in Connecticut, where I tend but maybe they would be surprised that D.V.F.: Because to me my car represents my children like adults and have been to reconnect with myself. I waste a lot of time playing solitaire and going home to Connecticut, I have al- completely honest with them.…I think Scrabble on my iPad…no, I think because ways chose the color green. Green for honesty is so important. A lot of people WWD: What are some of your favorite I am always telling women to be confi- the trees and the grass! ask me for advice, but I am often asking pieces of art? When you look at ones dent and to be the woman they want to be, my family for advice…my husband and that were personal gifts, are you taken people tend to be surprised when I admit WWD: At the end of an exhausting or both of my children are on the board of by the art or reminded of the person? that I have moments of doubts and inse- difficult day, how do you find relief? my company. I trust their judgement im- D.V.F.: Oh, so much of my art is so person- curity. We all do. The idea is to recognize D.V.F.: I think of all of the things I am mensely and it has been such a privilege al that it is difficult to choose favorites, when it happens and move past it… grateful for…my family, my health, my to see both of my children become such but I love the masters like Rembrandt, business, my friends…and I try to focus wonderful parents. I am very proud of Goya, Botticelli. My spring collection WWD: For a casual dinner with friends, on that and breathe. my children and grandchildren. is inspired by Matisse and Picasso, but what type of meal, flowers, music and I also love my contemporaries, [Andy] decor do you prefer? WWD: Had you not gone into fashion, WWD: When you manage to break away Warhol, [Francesco] Clemente, Damien D.V.F.: Whatever is most effortless. I like what type of job would you have done? from work on a weekend afternoon, Hirst, [Andreas] Gursky. And I appreci- simple, healthy and delicious food so D.V.F.: I think I would have loved to be a what might we find you doing? What is ate the art that I own as art, of course, that the focus is on the company. My director, but now my daughter [Tatiana] your ideal day? but I am always reminded of the artist, chef, Jane, is fabulous and she has is the filmmaker in the family. D.V.F.: If I am not traveling, I usually go which is what makes it so special. mastered the art of ease, which is so home to Connecticut, where I like to important. For flowers, I love large WWD: Which author do you most relate hike or just read in my studio. We have a WWD: What makes an artist exceptional? blooms like peonies and a lot of color, to? What books changed the way you converted barn that is separate from the D.V.F.: Emotion, emotion…a point of but nothing too structured or forced. look at life? house where I go to unwind and find clar- view…a different way of seeing…a The same goes for music and decor… D.V.F.: Stefan Zweig, [Leo] Tolstoy, Orhan ity. I can spend hours in there, reading strong sense of who they are and what everything should reflect who you are. Pamuk.…I love to read biographies. and watching films…my ideal day in the they are trying to express. city begins with a bath, I try to meditate WWD: Contradictory as this might WWD: Who do you consider to be the though I am not very good at it, I have WWD: What might people be surprised sound, which of your homes do you feel three most influential women in your breakfast, and I like to start every day to learn about you? Do you have many the most at home in and why? life? In the world? by sending an e-mail that helps someone hidden talents? D.V.F.: Really, I am a nomad and I feel D.V.F.: My mother was very influen- very comfortable everywhere. I never tial in my life. She was strong and sleep in the same place more than a few she taught me to be independent, to nights in a row. But if I had to choose be willing to take risks, and those one place, I would say my home in lessons have been so important in Connecticut, Cloudwalk. I bought it for my life. Gloria Steinem and Diana myself on my 27th birthday and for a Vreeland [had] a huge influence on long time it was my source of sanity. It my life as a young woman. And to was such a wonderful escape and the me, the most influential women in perfect place to raise my children. Now, the world are those who take the it is where I go to find myself and to find time to empower other women… clarity, to be with family, to slow down, investing in women is one of the all of those things. I knew the second I most powerful ways to transform the saw it, that for me it would be that place. world. I have met so many women through Vital Voices and the DVF WWD: How do you like to celebrate your Awards, amazing women who are birthdays? Your anniversaries? quietly changing the world and bet- D.V.F.: My birthday is New Year’s Eve, tering the lives of others. so there is always a celebration. We are usually traveling with family and we WWD: What do you think of bucket lists? celebrate wherever we are. Because it If you have one, what is near the top? is the last day of the year, I like to take D.V.F.: That is a difficult one…many, inventory and write my New Year’s many projects. resolutions. My anniversary is Barry’s birthday, so it is more about him than WWD: What’s the best part about living us. I guess every day is our anniversary! in New York? The worst? D.V.F.: The energy — New York is full of WWD: What have been your three favor- possibility. It always feels as if anything ite trips? could happen and that is so exciting to D.V.F.: A trip driving through me. The worst is that it can be hard to Uzbekistan, my week hiking in Bhutan, slow down and find clarity. sailing around the world on my boat EOS — those are my favorite trips! WWD:: What are your words to live by? D.V.F.: “Fear is not an option.” And of WWD: What is your favorite belonging? course, “Love is life!” Family heirloom? Article of clothing? Mode of transportation? Is there any- WWD: If the adage that “you are only thing you can’t live without? truly yourself when no one else is D.V.F.: My good luck charm is a coin my near” is true, what scenario might best father gave me from the war. I tape it to describe you? the bottom of my shoe for every fashion D.V.F.: I think that being true to yourself show. My favorite articles of clothing are is the most important thing. The most the cotton kurtas I sleep in. My favorite important relationship is the one you Clockwise from top left: Portraits of von Furstenberg by Andy Warhol (1984), Li Songsong mode of transportation is walking. And I have with yourself. Everything else fol- (2011) and Francesco Clemente (1999). couldn’t live without my family. lows from that. BENTLEY PHOTO BY JOHN PARRA/WIREIMAGE; WARHOL PORTRAIT COURTESY OF THE ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION WARHOL OF THE ANDY COURTESY PORTRAIT WARHOL JOHN PARRA/WIREIMAGE; BENTLEY PHOTO BY

34 WWD MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MILESTONES The Empower Hour Philanthropy is an integral part of the designer’s culture. By Kristi Garced

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG has often said that $50,000 to further their efforts. The event saw its fifth Front row, from left: Panmela Castro, Chouchou she owes her own freedom and independence to the installment last April, honoring Alicia Keys, Gloria Namegabe, Jaycee Dugard, Oprah Winfrey and Layli wrap dress, which made her a household name 40 Steinem and three others — two of whom were chosen Miller-Muro. Back row: Diane Sawyer, Maria Bartiromo, years ago, and she’s positioned philanthropy — par- from the Vital Voices global network of women. Past Jessica Alba, Tina Brown, Diane von Furstenberg and ticularly women’s empowerment — among her top honorees include Hillary Rodham Clinton, Oprah Debra Winger at the 2012 DVF Awards.

passions ever since. Winfrey, Elizabeth Smart and Natalia Vodianova. JOE SCHILDHORN/BFANYC.COM PHOTO BY “I think she feels as though she is a woman who “There are so many women doing amazing things, has made it beyond what her wildest dreams were,” so it is very difficult to narrow the field [to five women she also understands the power of the fashion industry said Alyse Nelson, president and chief executive of- each year],” von Furstenberg said. and the message that it can send to the world.” ficer of Vital Voices, the Washington, D.C.-based non- Many of the honorees, like Sunitha Krishnan, ac- The Fashion for Haiti campaign donated $1 governmental organization that trains and empow- tivist and cofounder of Prajwala who was honored in million to the Clinton Bush Haiti fund, while the ers emerging female leaders around the world. Von 2013, are former victims of sex trafficking and abuse, Fashion for Sandy Relief initiative raised $1.7 mil- Furstenberg has been a board member of Vital Voices violence or other hardships. lion for the Mayor’s Fund to Advance New York City since the early Aughts, when she started donating a “She turns them into survivors,” said Nelson. and other relief organizations. percentage of sales from her store on International “One of the things [Diane] says that I love is that she’s Another cause dear to von Furstenberg’s heart is Women’s Day to the organization — and still does. never met a woman who isn’t strong. Sometimes that the cultural enrichment of the Meatpacking District. “She looks around and wants to give back,” Nelson strength is being pushed down [if a woman] is in an “It is where I live and work and it has always been added. “But she doesn’t just want to write a check. She abusive relationship or difficult financial situation, so welcoming to me,” she said of the neighborhood. In wants to get personally involved in women’s lives.” but when that strength is tested, it comes out.” 2011, the Diller-von Furstenberg foundation gifted a re- In 1999, von Furstenberg founded the Diller-von Von Furstenberg has also been involved in several cord $20 million to the High Line — ultimately helping Furstenberg Family Foundation with her husband, charity initiatives in her role as president of the CFDA to finish the project — amounting to a total pledge of $35 Barry Diller, and her children from her first marriage since 2009: most notably Fashion for Haiti, Fashion for million over the years. To honor the foundation and the to Egon von Furstenberg, Alexander and Tatiana. The Sandy, Fashion Targets Breast Cancer, Seventh on Sale family, Friends of the High Line renamed its headquar- private foundation provides philanthropic support benefitting AIDS and HIV research and the organiza- ters the Diller-von Furstenberg Building. to nonprofit groups in arts, education, human rights tion’s health initiative for models. Von Furstenberg is also a board member of the and the environment. “All of us have different causes “What she’s demonstrated since she’s been presi- Culture Shed at Hudson Yards, a cultural center slat- — mine tend to be around women and girls,” von dent is the organization’s response to disasters,” Steven ed to open in 2018 that’s said to be the future home of Furstenberg said. Kolb, ceo of the CFDA, explained. “She was organizing New York Fashion Week. One of the events the Diller-von Furstenberg very quickly to get the industry behind a collective ef- “Where she goes, people will follow,” said Nelson. Family Foundation underwrites is the annual DVF fort [for Haiti], and [likewise] with Hurricane Sandy “She’s got a voice that carries weight with a different Awards, which heighten exposure to individuals here. She sees the human element and she responds kind of audience. She’s made these issues cool to a who work on women’s causes and provides grants of very much to how those disasters impact people. But whole new generation of men and women.”

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