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Home , Diffusion line, Fall 2008 fashion weeks, French fashion, Halterneck, Iris van Herpen, JW Anderson

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...... Acne / Stockholm, Sweden ...... 008/011...... Pedro Lourenço / São Paulo, Brazil ...... 208/211...... Joseph Altuzarra / New York, United States ...... 012/015...... Pamela Love / New York, United States ...... 212/215...... J.W. Anderson / , United Kingdom...... 016/019...... Lena Lumelsky / Antwerp, Belgium ...... 004 ...... 216/219...... Rachel Antonoff / New York, United States...... 020/023...... Mareunrol’s / Riga, Latvia ...... 220/223...... Graeme Armour / London, United Kingdom...... 024/027...... Marques Almeida / London, United Kingdom ...... 224/227...... Jordan Askill / , Australia...... Preface 028/031...... Nasir Mazhar / London, United Kingdom...... 228/231...... Band of Outsiders / Los Angeles, United States...... 032/035...... Meadham Kirchhoff / London, United Kingdom ...... 232/235...... Umit Benan / , Italy...... 036/039...... Emilio de la Morena / London, United Kingdom ...... 236/239...... Eddie Borgo / New York, United States...... 040/043...... Lucas Nascimento / London, United Kingdom ...... 240/243...... Natalia Brilli / , ...... 10 Curators 044/047...... Richard Nicoll / London, United Kingdom...... 244/247...... Thom Browne / New York, United States...... 048/051...... Ohne Titel / New York, United States ...... 248/251...... Sarah Burton (Alexander McQueen) / London, United Kingdom...... 052/055...... Lucas Ossendrijver () / Paris, France ...... 252/255...... Andrea Cammarosano / San Francisco, United States ...... 056/059...... Niels Peeraer / Antwerp, Belgium ...... 256/259...... Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccoli (Valentino) / Milan, Italy ...... 060/063...... Peter Pilotto / London, United Kingdom...... 260/263...... complexgeometries / Montreal, Canada ...... 064/067...... / London, United Kingdom ...... 264/267...... 006 ...... Creatures of The Wind / , United States...... 068/071...... Fausto Puglisi / Milan, Italy ...... 268/271...... Cushnie et Ochs / New York, United States...... 072/075...... Qiu Hao / Shanghai, China ...... 272/275...... Damir Doma / Paris, France...... 076/079...... Christopher Raeburn / London, United Kingdom...... 276/279...... Phoebe English / London, United Kingdom...... 080/083...... Gaia Repossi / Paris, France...... 280/283...... Erdem / London, United Kingdom...... 084/087...... Risto / New York, United States ...... 284/287...... Patrik Ervell / New York, United States ...... 088/091...... Simone Rocha / London, United Kingdom...... 288/291...... Mark Fast / London, United Kingdom...... 092/095...... Romance Was Born / Sydney, Australia...... 292/295...... Fleet Ilya / London, United Kingdom...... 096/099...... Gianvito Rossi / Milan, Italy ...... 296/299...... Nicola Formichetti (Mugler) / Paris, France...... 100/103...... Olivier Rousteing () / Paris, France ...... 300/303...... Holly Fulton / London, United Kingdom ...... 104/107...... Flaminia Saccucci / Paris, France...... 304/307...... Josh Goot / Sydney, Australia...... 100 Fashion Designers 108/111...... Shaun Samson / London, United Kingdom...... 308/311...... Patrick Grant / London, United Kingdom ...... 112/115...... Tex Saverio / Jakarta, Indonesia...... 312/315...... Louise Gray / London, United Kingdom ...... 116/119...... Marios Schwab / London, United Kingdom...... 008 ...... 316/319...... Hakaan / London, United Kingdom ...... 120/123...... Christopher Shannon / London, United Kingdom ...... 320/323...... Michael van der Ham / London, United Kingdom ...... 124/127...... Sibling / London, United Kingdom...... 324/327...... Guillaume Henry (Carven) / Paris, France...... 128/131...... Tabitha Simmons / New York, United States...... 328/331...... Iris van Herpen / Amsterdam, The Netherlands...... 132/135...... CC SKYE / Los Angeles, United States...... 332/335...... Maarten van der Horst / London, United Kingdom ...... 136/139...... Noel Stewart / London, United Kingdom...... 408 336/339...... Rad Hourani / Paris, France...... 140/143...... Suno / New York, United States...... 340/343...... Roksanda Ilincic / London, United Kingdom ...... Biographies ...... 144/147...... Thomas Tait / London, United Kingdom...... 344/347...... Juun J / Seoul, South Korea...... 148/151...... Heaven Tanudiredja / Antwerp, Belgium...... 348/351...... Dominic Jones / London, United Kingdom ...... 152/155...... Noritaka Tatehana / , Japan ...... 352/355...... Kim Jones () / Paris, France ...... 156/159...... Ek Thongprasert / Antwerp, Belgium...... 356/359...... Christopher Kane / London, United Kingdom...... 160/163...... Aitor Throup / London, United Kingdom...... 360/363...... Mary Katrantzou / London, United Kingdom ...... 164/167...... Erika Trotzig / London, United Kingdom ...... 364/367...... Adam Kimmel / New York, United States...... 168/171...... Anthony Vaccarello / Paris, France ...... 368/371...... Nicholas Kirkwood / London, United Kingdom...... Index/Picture credits 172/175...... Alexander Wang / New York, United States ...... 372/375...... David Koma / London, United Kingdom...... 176/179...... Uma Wang / Shanghai, China...... 376/379...... Romain Kremer (Mugler) / Paris, France...... 180/183...... Sharon Wauchob (Edun) / Dublin, Ireland...... 380/383...... Jeremy Laing / Toronto, Canada ...... 184/187...... Jason Wu / New York, United States...... 384/387...... Craig Lawrence / London, United Kingdom...... 188/191...... Yang Li / London, United Kingdom...... 388/391...... Dion Lee / Sydney, Australia...... 192/195...... Yiqing Yin / Paris, France...... 392/395...... Joseph Li / Hong Kong, China...... 196/199...... Yokoo / Atlanta, United States...... 418 ...... 396/399...... Phillip Lim / New York, United States...... 200/203...... Huishan Zhang / London, United Kingdom...... 400/403...... James Long / London, United Kingdom...... 204/207...... Xander Zhou / Beijing, China...... 404/407...... 004/0055/5......

Preface......

*Nothing signals the arrival of a new generation so surely as the the future with apparently boundless creative freedom; in her introduction, have found prominence by her royal appointment include cobbler Noritaka pieces by Erika Trotzig to the needle-point felting of Shaun Samson’s sports- fact that the previous one is shocked by its influences. Many of the breaking Bronwyn Cosgrave described them as being united by fearlessness. Alas, fear, Tatehana, who creates her precipitous heel-less platform , the young inflected men’s wear. Tim Lim introduces us to the skills of international talents selected for Pattern nod unmistakeably back to that in the form of economic insecurity, has come into fashion in the intervening Indonesian designer Tex Saverio and milliner Nasir Mazhar. Presiding Yiqing Yin, whose structured pleating builds on the Grecian vision of Madame great vintage fashion decade, the 1990s, in a way that would have been alien years, and with it a need for pragmatism. Desirability and customer appeal over them all is Nicola Formichetti, the man responsible for creating her Grès to create a breathtaking modern classicism. The editors of Fantastic to the over-blown sexuality of the noughties (a remarkably appropriate label, are recurring themes in this book, reflecting retailers’ growing . overall looks. *Formichetti is the most internationally visible incar- Man magazine have made the revival of classic tailoring skills a key focus in retrospect). It’s extraordinary how fresh these re-invented styles feel in Entrepreneur Imran Amed praises designers such as Jason Wu not only for nation of that very modern phenomenon, the super stylist, a new fashion in their selection, including Thom Browne’s signature re-proportioned the hands of designers that first encountered them as pre-teenagers, from their creative skill but also for their business sense. The retail consultant elite that has pushed the boundary that separates the role of stylist and and the Savile Row elegance of Patrick Grant. *Pattern is full Romain Kremer’s rave-inflected men’s wear to Pedro Lourenço’s techno- Yasmin Sewell shares her keen sense of how directional catwalk pieces by designer to the point of collapse. SHOWstudio, who worked closely with of people on the move: it seems apt that it comes equipped for globetrotting fabrics, Gianvito Rossi’s spindly high-heeled shoes and the crafted grunge designers like Michael van der Ham can become hard-working components Formichetti during his career styling for magazines, pop videos and stadium in its own tote bag. Tracking down the glorious images contained between of Marques Almeida. The rediscovery of androgynous conceptualism from in a customer’s . *That the fashion industry has become tours, describe his reinvention as creative director of Mugler, where, with its covers was a constant reminder of how global the fashion industry has Damir Doma and Rad Hourani also feels very welcome. *As well as wary does not mean that it has become drab – indeed, in times like these we Sébastien Peigné and Romain Kremer, his vision of other-worldly chic become: global not just in the sense of its reach – the designers take us from rediscoveries, Pattern is sprinkled with innovation, most notably in those are reminded of the power that has to lift us out of the everyday. has revived the reputation of the house. *A growing Jakarta to Riga via Los Angeles and Beijing – but also in the sense of mo- designers engaging with new manufacturing techniques. Advances in digital There’s nothing like the fillip of something gloriously flamboyant, and at interest in traditional couture skills has been accompanied by an awareness bility. An overwhelming number of the selected designers have travelled printing have allowed pattern-making pioneers like Mary Katrantzou and points the work of many of the designers featured in Pattern seems to teeter of how close some of these techniques are to disappearing. At Valentino, a long way. fashion schools such as Central Saint Martins in London Peter Pilotto to create complex arrangements of colour and form in small- playfully on the border between fashion and . Tavi Gevinson delights the new artistic directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have and the Royal Academy of Fine Art in Antwerp attract students from as batch fabrics. Jeweller Jordan Askill and women’s-wear designer Iris in the theatrical extravagance of Australian duo Romance Was Born and delivered fresh collections showcasing the atelier’s expert far away as Thailand, Indonesia and Korea, who often remain nearby to van Herpen both use 3-D scanning and printing techniques in combination in Meadham Kirchhoff, whose fantastical universe improbably unites the bead and lacework. New York-based stylist Keegan Singh enthuses over launch their careers surrounded by a supportive network of creative spirits. with traditional skills to produce their sculptural pieces. Writing about van Brothers Grimm, Nintendo and Madame de Pompadour. At the darker edge, Olivier Rousteing’s debut collection for Balmain, which enlisted couture *While the nominees for Sample may have been united by fearless- Herpen, A.F. Vandevorst remind us that despite the monumentality of her Aitor Throup’s men’s wear – rooted in meditations on sports, violence, faith embellishment in the construction of a Wild West vision reminiscent of the ness, those that we meet in Pattern are characterized by a willingness to work, these pieces are true clothing, only complete when fitted to the form and mortality – looks as though it might have stepped off the pages of an Alan original Rodeo tailor, Nudie Cohn. *Both Heather Sproat of Central make sacrifices in pursuit of their creative freedom coupled with the wisdom of a human body. *When Pattern’s predecessor Sample was published Moore comic book. *As supreme leader within this world of fantasy Saint Martins and the design-duo Preen have been drawn to designers with that comes from facing adversity. Above all, perhaps, the 100 featured in 2005, it presented a ground-breaking generation of designers looking to fashion, stalks the pages of Pattern, just out of sight. Those who strong craft skills, ranging dramatically from romantically frayed artisan designers share an undaunted courage to make beauty in difficult times.

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...... 006/0077/7......

Imran Amed (London/New York) is the founder and editor of The Business of Yasmin Sewell (London) has built a varied career as a retail consultant, Fashion (BoF) website, a daily resource for fashion creatives, executives, creative advisor and trend forecaster to fashion brands, designers and students and entrepreneurs in more than 200 countries and territories luxury stores the world over. Formerly buying director at Browns, Sewell around the world. Started as a blog and creative project from Amed’s sofa was also responsible for successfully overhauling Liberty’s women’s wear in London, BoF has been described as ‘a daily destination for fashion’s most and accessories department. A board member of the British Fashion Council, influential power players’ and ‘ of fashion’. An advisor to Sewell is renowned for her ability to spot and nurture fashion’s rising stars. leading luxury and fashion brands on their business, digital and creative She has been instrumental in the careers of London designers Christopher strategies, Amed is a talent scout, a mentor to young designers, a judge at Kane, J.W. Anderson, Meadham Kirchhoff and Marios Schwab, as well as design competitions around the world and an associate lecturer at Central being instrumental in the growth of international brands including Acne, Saint Martins, London. He also sits on the Digital and Menswear 2012 com- Rick Owens and Pierre Hardy. She now runs the fashion consultancy Yasmin mittees of the British Fashion Council. His writing has been published in Sewell Ltd., which specializes in global brand management, cutting-edge ...... the Financial Times, Wallpaper*, Vogue , 032c and Style.com. retail concepts and the perennial search for the next big thing. 10 Curators ...... Fantastic Man (Amsterdam) Jop van Bennekom and Gert Jonkers are the SHOWstudio (London) The groundbreaking image maker Nick Knight OBE founding editors and publishers of Fantastic Man, the international men’s founded the award-winning fashion website SHOWstudio.com in 2000, as a style journal they launched in 2005 to great critical acclaim. Charming way to explore the possibilities of fashion – specifically fashion film – on the and inquisitive, the magazine has featured the personal style – and more Internet. Over the next decade SHOWstudio became a unique, independent importantly the stories – of such notable gentleman as Malcolm McLaren, Raf platform for creatives to explore the meaning of fashion in the digital age...... Simons, Wolfgang Tillmans, Helmut Lang, Tom Ford and David Copperfield. SHOWstudio has worked with sought-after designers, filmmakers, writers In 2010 Jonkers and Van Bennekom launched The Gentlewoman, a bi-annual and cultural figures to create visionary online content, exploring every magazine for women. facet of fashion through moving image, illustration, photography and the written word. From 2008 to 2012, Alexander Fury was fashion director of SHOWstudio. He is editor of LOVE magazine and also writes for publications ...... including Vogue, Fantastic Man, the Independent and the Financial Times. Tavi Gevinson (Chicago) is editor-in-chief and founder of RookieMag.com and writes the blog stylerookie.com. Rookie, a site for teenage girls, broke ...... 1 million page views within 6 days of its launch in September of 2011, ...... and contributors have included Miranda July, Dan Savage, Joss Whedon, Keegan Singh (New York) is a leading fashion stylist. Born and raised in Zooey Deschanel, Jon Hamm, Karen Elson, Lena Dunham, Kate and Laura Northern California, he started his fashion career assisting Tabitha Simmons 100 Fashion Designers Mulleavy and Fred Armisen. It has received praise from Weekend Edition and Katie Grand and has developed a signature style that he adapts to his Sunday on NPR, , and a number of other many collaborations. Keegan is a regular contributor to magazines such ...... publications, and, most importantly, from the girls who write to it. Tavi has as American Vogue, , V MAN, LOVE, The Last Magazine, Purple, also written for publications such as Bazaar, Jezebel, Lula and Pop, and is a Interview, Muse, SHOWstudio and Self Service. He works with a range of contributing editor to Garage magazine. She is sixteen and a junior at her photographers such as Paola Kudaki, Maciek Kobielski, Angelo Penetta, high school, and also the author of an embarrassing diary recently found Todd Cole, Tom Allen and Mark Segal. In addition to his editorial work, from the sixth grade. Keegan consults with a range of fashion and commercial clients. Keegan’s ...... runway show collaborations include Rock & Republic, Jen Kao, , Sachin + Babi and Cushnie et Ochs. His commercial advertising clients include Hudson , Rock and Republic, Helmut Lang, J. Lindeberg, Nike, Tim Lim (Shanghai) is Group Fashion Director of Modern Media, China’s American Express and Target. leading independent publishing group with titles including Modern Weekly, Numero China, Life Magazine and Bloomberg Businessweek. Considered ...... one of Asia’s foremost fashion and lifestyle authorities, Lim was formerly fashion editor at the South China Morning Post in Hong Kong before moving Heather Sproat (London) studied fashion at Central Saint Martins, graduat- to Shanghai in 2006. Born in Toronto, he read cultural studies at McGill ing in 1993 from the BA women’s-wear course. Awarded the Royal Warrant University in Montreal and art history at the Sorbonne in Paris, where he Holders’ Queen Elizabeth scholarship in 1997, she spent a year studying began his career in fashion. His work as a writer and stylist can also be seen haute couture tailoring techniques as an observatrice at the Christian in international editions of Vogue, Elle, Bazaar and i-D, and he consults for Haute Couture atelier in Paris. In 1998 she was appointed as a designer at several global retailers on their regional branding and image strategies. Louis Vuitton Malletier, returning to London after four years in Paris. She ...... became an associate lecturer on women’s wear at Central Saint Martins – and from 2007 a senior lecturer on the course – while also working on projects for Tanner Krolle, Richemont and Shanghai Tang. In Preen (London) Designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi met at the 2006 she lectured at Musashino Art University in Tokyo on Fashion Shock. age of eighteen on the Isle of Man, where they both grew up. In 1996 they She is also creative director for the small knitwear brand Woodchild, and set up shop in Notting Hill’s Portobello Road to sell one-off pieces that dis- retains a passion for the hand-execution of stitch, tailoring, cutting and played many of the themes that Preen would revisit over the next decade: clothing construction. Victoriana, recycling, deconstruction and utilitarian clothing, with their ...... characteristic masculine/feminine, hard/soft mix. Preen’s debut collec- tion at London (Spring/Summer 2001) combined punkish vintage lace and plaited leathers with hand-craft effects to create a very A.F. Vandevorst (Antwerp) Designers An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx met British sense of tongue-in-cheek chic that received rave reviews. Subsequent in 1987 on their first day as students at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts collections built on this early success, and Preen made the decision to in Antwerp. Ten years later, they presented their first collection as A.F. move their runway shows to for Spring/Summer VANDEVORST in Paris and almost immediately won the Vénus de la Mode 2008. They also launched the contemporary ‘Preen Line’, which gave the in 1998. The main A.F. Vandevorst ready-to-wear collection includes shoes, designers an avenue for the rock-and-roll side of their design aesthetic. bags and accessories and is complemented by the diffusion line A. Friend. In With its effortless everyday cool, and lower price tag, ‘Preen Line’ has been 2005, An and Filip curated the exhibition ‘Katharina Prospekt’ at MoMu, the a worldwide success. Antwerp . They have designed the for a number of stage productions, including in 2012 Le Duc D’Albe for Flemish Opera. The duo’s most recent projects include a collection for L’Aventure and a pair of travelling pop-up stores.

...... Acne / Stockholm, Sweden...... Yasmin Sewell...... 008/009......

The key to Acne’s success comes down to a sixth sense: they know what loved for simple pieces that add something to a wardrobe but fit in the customer wants before the customer knows it herself. The genius comes seamlessly. *Without advertising or a massive press push, Acne have from instinct being the only thing to follow. Everything else is just noise. quietly become a global force. They have also branched out – into furniture, Jonny Johansson, the founder, is connected to the zeitgeist in an uncanny magazine publishing, designing with Lanvin – but they have retained way: he seems to be able to predict the future. This plugged-in mentality is the core product, as seen in pieces like the aviator from Autumn/ gold for retailers. *Never about reinventing the wheel, Acne instead Winter 2010, or the Pistol on rotation every season. They all have create clothes that appeal to a rock-and-roll side in all of us. Never too the effortless cool of style icons like Chloe Sevigny and Alexa Chung – complicated or directional, the aesthetic is accessible but cool. I think that’s except that real girls can add a bit of the magic to their wardrobe, too. a Swedish thing – they want everyone to be included. *Starting with *The price means that the brand is attainable for a young crowd. back in 1996, Acne jeans now form the basis of many wardrobes. The Acne girl has become something to see on the streets. She’s a walking, Moving increasingly into ready-to-wear, they have become a cult brand, talking symbol of the brand’s success.

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looks inspired by girls pimping school , pre-fall 2012

fleshy pinks inspired by artist hanneline røgeberg, autumn/ winter 2012

...... Acne / Stockholm, Sweden...... 010/011......

stiff fabrics and exaggerated volumes, autumn/ winter 2012

sketch, aviator-inspired jacket, printed , capsule collection, ...... autumn/winter 2011 ...... Joseph Altuzarra / New York, United States...... Imran Amed...... 012/013...... sketches by joseph altuzarra, autumn/ Born in Paris to a Chinese–American mother and a French– father, body-conscious silhouettes with all the glamour of the 1990s, while his more winter 2011 Joseph Altuzarra has had no formal fashion training. After graduating in recent collections have added a sense of utilitarianism. Rugged tailored art and art history, Altuzarra worked as a design intern in the in his Autumn/Winter 2011 collection were paired with ultra- studio in 2005 before joining Proenza Schouler as a designer. In October 2006, feminine, bias-cut , creating a look that recalled the 1990s’ grunge Altuzarra moved back to Paris to work with Riccardo Tisci at . of Kate Moss and Johnny Depp, while still maintaining an overt sensuality. Now equipped with the technical and creative foundation to launch his own For Spring/Summer 2012 Altuzarra continued to explore his ongoing interest brand, he launched ALTUZARRA in 2008. *When Carine Roitfeld, in utilitarian outerwear, which this time he mixed with sporty details and then editor-in-chief of French Vogue, wore a straight from his Autumn/ tropical prints. *Altuzarra says that he designs for women, not girls. Winter 2009 collection a few weeks later during , it But that does not mean his designs are safe. The ALTUZARRA woman is created buzz on fashion blogs and websites and drew interest from fashion confident enough to wear provocative clothes that stand out, while still retailers around the world. *Altuzarra’s early collections had sexy, letting her own style shine through.

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and crepe satin , and wool trousers, resort 2012

nylon parka with plaid chiffon , autumn/winter 2011

...... Joseph Altuzarra / New York, United States...... 014/015......

fitting polaroids, sketches by joseph altuzarra, autumn/winter 2011

autumn/winter 2011 backstage, autumn/ winter 2011

...... J.W. Anderson / London, United Kingdom...... Tavi Gevinson...... 016/017...... bird top and trousers (sketch), spring/ I would love to have J.W. Anderson’s eyes and brain for a day – or, you over sheer long sleeves, and a chunky paired with a soft, single- summer 2012 new halterneck

know, life – so I could see things the way he does. His inspiration isn’t the layered tulle skirt. For Autumn/Winter 2011, which was more ladylike but top (sketch), spring/summer 2012 most outlandish, but somehow he can take photos of skateboarders from still full of tiny nuances, it meant over pants, collared and cropped the 1970s or his grandma’s routine of wearing over her track button-downs, and tufts of what looked like goat hair seeming to sprout bottoms and pick up on things others don’t. There are nostalgic elements out of a coat collar. *In Anderson’s men’s-wear collection for the same to his pieces – a paisley printed collar, a doily sewn onto a dip-dyed top, season, models wore flowing pleated skirts, shrunken cardigans layered an image of a teenage boy trying to look tough – even if you can’t remember over longer ones, and tied around the , each side connected exactly where you first saw them. *On top of how personal his designs by a strap of fabric at the knees. If it sounds awkward, well, it is – but in the feel, and his ability to draw on seemingly mundane inspiration, Anderson’s so-wrong-it’s-right kind of way. I guess that’s what happens when someone clothes are just plain cool. The proportions can be slightly off-kilter, but takes something seemingly unnoticeable and makes sense of it. in the best way. For Spring/Summer 2011, this meant T- layered

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full vinyl skirt, quilted pvc jacket, pre- fall 2012

navy stripe top and trousers (sketch), spring/summer 2012 ...... J.W. Anderson / London, United Kingdom...... 018/019......

leather chain-mail detail, ‘craft goes machine’, spring/ summer 2012

‘the fear of naturalism’, men’s wear, autumn/ winter 2011

op-art-inspired prints, men’s wear, autumn/winter 2012 ...... Rachel Antonoff / New York, United States...... Tavi Gevinson...... 020/021......

Rachel Antonoff is a storyteller. Her clothes look as if they come out of and her vision is so elaborate that they always bring her designs full circle. a Sweet Valley High book, an Edward Gorey story or an old-fashioned murder Such detailed presentations could easily distract from the clothing, but mystery. One collection was presented in a Nancy Drew crime scene and instead perfectly compliment it. The clothes hold their own. They take another in a black-and-white-all-over haunted house. *A favourite the wearer back to a more childlike place in which fashion is about make- of mine was in a rickety house full of pillow forts and books, with blanket believe and taking on a character. *Antonoff pulls this off without teepees and a Wendy house. Girls in saddle shoes and rompers wrote ‘No looking twee or as if she’s copying vintage looks. Her clothing surprises in adults allowed!’ on their clubhouse walls and played with a Ouija board its details in a way few designers can manage so subtly. It’s not cheeky or on the bed. It was the ultimate slumber party. Another presentation took ironic or overly cute, just sweet details like cat-eared pockets or the hearts place in a high-school gym. Girls in adorable looks that took away any on a pair of Bass loafers kissing one another at the tip. In this way, Antonoff negative connotation attached to ‘prom dress’ danced to The Like under leaves enough versatility and wearability for the character to make it her balloons and stars. *Antonoff’s collections beg for storybook settings own. The result? A perfect balance between make-believe and reality.

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plaid minidress, autumn 2010

kelsy from lookbook, autumn/winter 2011

lauren pantin as a magical queen, lookbook, autumn/winter 2011 ...... Rachel Antonoff / New York, United States...... 022/023......

show invitation by emma kelly, spring/summer 2011

lookbook, spring/ summer 2011

show images, spring/ summer 2011

...... Graeme Armour / London, United Kingdom...... Keegan Singh...... 024/025......

I remember standing at Graeme Armour’s first-ever show at Milk Studios be unisex worn on a teenage boy. He thinks in an abstract way to make in 2010 and being blown away by what he was doing with leather. As a garment, and often generates something very unexpected, such as a a stylist, I’m always looking for things that will photograph in an amazing skirt that has details of a motorcycle jacket on it. Although he presents his or unexpected way, and that collection had it in spades. Armour has pieces worn very straight, up and down, in a certain way they can be the an amazing sense of architecture in his clothes, and his aesthetic with greatest party clothes that you could ever imagine. *When you look leather is extraordinary. For his first season he made these French pants at clothes for a living, you don’t tend to get surprised very often, but every with leather ruffles. He used to work with leather for McQueen, and these time I see Armour’s looks, there will also be one or two things that throw were so beautifully made that just the technical feat itself was amazing. me. Sometimes it’s a new proportion, or an unexpected sheer panel, or a *There are elements of men’s wear in his work: and motorcycle cut out or a radical slit – but whatever it is, I’m happy that he is always that are quite square and boxed, or little leather jackets that could finding something to keep my attention.

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black wool coat with back slit, leather , autumn/ winter 2011

metallic top, spring/ summer 2010 ...... Graeme Armour / London, United Kingdom...... 026/027......

wool and leather bomber jacket with ruffled shoulders, autumn/winter 2010

minidress, spring/ summer 2011 sketch by david poole, autumn/ winter 2011

leather minidress, leather trousers frill , with tiered ruffles, spring/summer 2010 autumn/winter 2010

...... Jordan Askill / Sydney, Australia...... Yasmin Sewell...... 028/029......

The most appropriate adjective for Jordan Askill would be ‘angelic’. It could it has a story behind it that gives it another angle. I think this is something describe him as a person – an ethereal, auburn-haired creature with a beatific that enchants women. is aways very personal, and Askill taps smile and dreamy aura – but it also applies to his jewellery, which seems into this with his heartfelt inspirations. *Askill is a true artist. to come from another world. Askill grew up in Sydney, where he comes from He makes sculptures as well as jewellery, and they are mind-blowing. But a creative family – his brothers are filmmakers. *Askill started he also makes jewellery that is subtle and simple. It’s considered. He’s his own ready-to-wear label while working for Ksubi. After three years thought about the exact size and shape of the heart on the Jordy ring that at Dior Homme, he launched his jewellery line in 2009. What he does is became such a hit. Everyone I know wants one. The clever thing is that heavenly: I love the imagination in the pieces. He brings a sensitivity and he combines his artistic sensibility with a gut feeling of what girls want to a fragility to everything. There’s a softness and a delicacy that perhaps wear. He’s intuitive as well as angelic. comes from looking at nature as inspiration. A bracelet isn’t just a bracelet:

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panther and hand-carved swallow ring, rubies rock-crystal panther and diamond eyes, pendant, autumn/ spring/summer 2011 winter 2011

hand-carved rock-crystal panther ring, spring/summer 2011 balloon ring

swallow neckpiece,

autumn/winter 2011 ...... Jordan Askill / Sydney, Australia...... 030/031......

horse wave sculpture, 2010 silver and amethyst swallow , spring/summer 2012

silver and amethyst horse wave cuff swallow necklace displayed in silver, 2010 inside a swallow bust, spring/ summer 2012

...... Band of Outsiders / Los Angeles, United States...... Imran Amed...... 032/033......

Born and raised in Los Angeles, California, Scott Sternberg grew up living and on his website. ‘It’s this wonderful environment in which to work the West Coast lifestyle that is embodied in his brand, Band of Outsiders. that’s outside of the fashion dialogue,’ says Sternberg. ‘Hopefully there’s He offers a relaxed take on preppy styles – signature skinny ties, dip-dyed a freshness and singularity in what we’re doing that people appreciate.’ sky-blue madras shirts and slim-line oxford shirts with shrunken collars. *What makes Sternberg’s clothes particularly remarkable is their *Band of Outsiders began as a capsule men’s-wear collection of craftsmanship and quality. His take on Americana reflects a belief that reinterpreted American classics. Sternberg has subsequently created two luxury products can be fun, quirky and relaxed, while also being successful women’s collections, Boy and Girl, designed under the Band impeccably made and expertly tailored. *With his entertainment of Outsiders name, which stick to his signature of ‘basics-with-a-twist’. background, Sternberg also knows how to put on a great show. When *Along with Sternberg’s first-hand experience in the entertainment he was invited to be the guest designer at the prestigious Pitti Uomo business, part of Band of Outsiders’ distinctive point of view has come from trade fair in Florence in June 2011, he presented a spectacular cinematic being based in Los Angeles, bringing a relaxed, light-hearted attitude to the show based on the musical West Side Story, featuring forty-six dancers brand, reflected in the quirky, washed-out polaroids he uses in his lookbooks and models.

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jason schwartzman wears wool peacoat, cotton chambray , cotton terry , top-sider rubber trompe l’oeil boat shoes, autumn/winter 2009

john dewis wears cotton gabardine trench, cotton broadcloth shirt, silk repp tie, vintage , spring/summer 2008

...... Band of Outsiders / Los Angeles, United States...... 034/035......

james marsden wears cotton broadcloth pajama shirt, cotton chinos, needlepoint , spring/summer 2011

patchwork dress, silk georgette sleeveless dress, silk/cotton gathered v-neck sweater and georgette bloomers, silk habotai tied dress, spring/summer 2011

kirsten dunst wears ripstop nylon trenchcoat, cashmere gathered-hem , cotton/silk travel print skirt, spring/summer 2011

opening, new york fashion week show, autumn 2011

sarah silverman wears linen coat and fedora, spring/summer 2009 ...... Umit Benan / Milan, Italy...... Fantastic Man...... 036/037......

Umit Benan draws inspiration from ordinary people, yet his designs are line, such as ‘Older Turkish men gathering in a coffee house’ or ‘An older too specific and opulent to be ordinary. Benan’s silhouettes are strong, gentleman who has been travelling around the world for the last 40 years.’ bold and striking. He claims that he loves the 1980s, and not just because Benan’s interest in older gentlemen as style icons is a characteristic of a that’s when he was born. The pronounced shoulders, vivid colours and young label that is gaining momentum with each season. Benan shows in giant pleats of that era find their way into his men’s-wear collections. Milan using street-cast models of all ages. That immediately marks him out *Benan was born in Germany but grew up in Istanbul. He went among the commercial fashion giants of the city. *Since the Spring/ to school in Switzerland and studied marketing and PR in Boston before Summer 2012 season, Benan has been working as ‘fashion consultant’ for moving to Italy to study design. This international background is reflected the traditional leather house Trussardi. For his debut collection there, in his designs: Benan has a liberating scope beyond the Western world. models arrived in a fleet of limousines at the Trussardi flagship store next *What is most apparent in Benan’s clothes is his desire to tell to the Scala theatre. The clothes looked highly appealing, of course, but it stories. His collections are based on a story that can be summed up in one was the narrative that made it such a typical Benan event.

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‘retired rockers’ collection, autumn/ winter 2010 ‘third generation italian’, inspired by nino cerruti, spring/summer 2012

...... Umit Benan / Milan, Italy...... 038/039......

‘military’ collection with ‘tankman’ trousers, autumn/winter 2012 ...... Eddie Borgo / New York, United States...... Yasmin Sewell...... 040/041...... sketches by eddie borgo, autumn/ Sometimes fashion is just about having a great eye – and that’s what but still versatile. They add an element of surprise. There’s a sense of his winter 2010 Eddie Borgo has. He started out in 2009 making one-offs for stylists designs having a hard look but a luxury that means they’re never trashy. such as Camilla Nickerson and Tabitha Simmons, and his bold, opulent *Borgo is one of the most exciting talents in jewellery but he’s also pieces started to gain a cult following that’s only likely to grow. I first charming and vivacious. You can see that in his whole brand. His lookbooks became aware of him when he created great spiked bracelets: they don’t star any regular models. Instead, he gets a major photographer and girls were a beautifully made, luxury item – but with an edge. *This is like Vogue Homme Fashion Editor Giovanna Battaglia or Tabitha Simmons Borgo’s skill. His pieces bring just enough to whatever you might be to model for him, and Julia Restoin Roitfeld to art direct. *Moves like wearing. They catch the eye. They’re kind of punk while staying pretty. that up his kudos with the cool girl even more – he’s one of them, and that You have to be confident to wear a silver spider, say, or a cuff of jewelled appeals. With the launch of his men’s collection inspired by rock gods studs, but there’s a girl out there that loves that. The designs are bold like Mick Jagger and David Bowie, her boyfriend won’t be far behind.

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pave cone bracelet in gold with clear pave crystal

four-layer tinsel gauntlet in gold two-tone shield necklace in gunmetal and rose gold

...... Eddie Borgo / New York, United States...... 042/043......

sketches by eddie borgo, autumn/ winter 2010

overlapping gemstone pyramid triangle bracelet in silver ring in silver and sapphire glass

long-hinged step in jet and clear pave crystal

plate collar in silver

...... Natalia Brilli / Paris, France...... A.F. Vandevorst...... 044/045......

A Belgian based in Paris, Natalia Brilli is absolutely one of our favourite perfection, it’s mad. We picked up on her work over ten years ago, when we designers for leather accessories. Having often worked with leather in our saw her signature leather-covered pearls, which at the time she made by hand own collections, we feel really drawn to her gorgeously detailed trompe for hours on end, together with her friends and family. We suppose she l’oeil bags and wallets, in which day-to-day objects like laptops, lipstick, now has people making them for her. The pearls – a typically bourgeois keys or gardening material are sculpted in vacuum-pulled monochrome symbol – covered in black leather were so striking and visionary that we leather. The leather objects are like bas reliefs depicting the contents of started to follow her work. *We especially like Brilli’s extracurricular the containers. One of our favourites is the painter’s kit, with the brushes installations, like the leather-covered drum kit and skeletons. Her Vanitas- and tubes perfectly carved out of or, should we say, sucked into the leather. themed pieces are dark yet humorous and immaculately beautiful. There *We worked with Brilli on the leather accessories for our 2007 is a narrative aspect to her work that really appeals to us. That, coupled collections; she is a warm, enthralling woman. Her work is so detailed to with her masterful use of leather, makes her work particularly magnetic.

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shop window with skeleton, designed with flower master thierry boutemy

leather , spring/summer 2012

...... Natalia Brilli / Paris, France...... 046/047......

le sautoir, spring/ summer 2012 pineapple purse, autumn/winter 2009

, sioux, autumn/ winter 2011

skateboard, classic collection

bracelet, sioux, autumn/winter 2011 multiple, autumn/ winter 2012

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