WESTERN WAY BLOOMINGDALE’S UNVEILS A FULL-LINE STORE IN GLENDALE, CALIF. PAGE 5 TAKING A TOUR BIGGER BASSO SIR PHILIP GREEN AND NORDSTROM EXECUTIVES CROSS THE DENNIS BASSO OPENS A 10,500-SQUARE-FOOT U.S. FOR TOPSHOP SHOPS-IN-SHOP IN NORDSTROM. PAGE 12 FLAGSHIP ON MADISON AVENUE. PAGE 5

JOINING THE LVMH STABLE Ghesquière Era Dawns at Vuitton

By MILES SOCHA

PARIS — Nicolas Ghesquière is expected to bring a WWD gust of experimental fashion — and that all-important buzz factor — to as the brand’s new ar- tistic director of women’s collections. TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Confirming a widely expected hire, Vuitton said the designer — who catapulted to the forefront of the fashion agenda — would show his first collection here next March. The appointment on Monday afternoon came al- most a year to the day that the Frenchman exited Balenciaga after a 15-year career, sparking a guessing game about where he might land. He had also con- ducted talks with Japanese retail giant Fast Retailing The Suit Ltd., parent of the chain, as reported. Vuitton said Ghesquière would bring “a modern, creative vision to the house’s women’s collections, building on the values of refinement, savoir faire and extreme quality.” He is the latest fortysomething fashion modern- Gets Cute ist tapped by luxury kingpin , who last year named Belgian Raf Simons to become Christian ’s sixth couturier, and who in recent Dial down the serious power suit — way years brought in British designer Phoebe Philo to

MARTIN energize Céline. down. For spring, contemporary designers Known for his exacting, couturelike approach,

EMMIE turned up the fun with playful shorts Ghesquière could help Vuitton in its quest to build a more upscale and elite reputation after years of suits like this linen one by Harlyn worn rapid global expansion and a heavy reliance on

ASSISTANT: with Levi’s Made & Crafted’s silk top. monogram canvas. Reporting third-quarter results last month, LVMH Collina Strada clutch; Calleen Cordero Moët Louis Vuitton said revenues in the FASHION shoes. For more shorts suits, see fashion and leather goods division slipped 3.8 per- cent to 2.43 billion euros, or $3.22 billion, with Vuitton GROFT; WWD.com/fashion-news. “slightly” underperforming other brands in the busi- ness group, which includes such names as ,

KATHERINE and . Signaling an upscale drive designed to stem that sales slide, last month Vuitton tapped accessories

ASSISTANT: SEE PAGE 4 PHOTO

BEAUTÉ; ’s U.S. Push

CHANEL By MARC KARIMZADEH FOR NEW YORK — The transformation of Gucci’s North America business is in full motion.

KOHLHAGEN During an exclusive interview here last week, Patrizio di Marco, Gucci’s worldwide president and ANNE

BY chief executive officer, outlined key changes the brand has been making here — a strategy aimed at strengthening its U.S. presence with the ultimate goal MAKEUP of surpassing $1 billion in sales in the region. Mainly, Gucci started looking to “drastically BEAUTY; change our presence in the country by taking over the wholesale partners that we had,” di Marco said.

ARTMIX “Our intention wasn’t to cut the stores out of the pro- AT cess, because they have been our partners for many years and they’re still our partners. There’s simply a change in the relationship, from coming to us and TRESEMMÉ buying our merchandise to, together with us, manag-

USING ing the business, although the business is run directly by the company here.” SYFU The takeover of the Gucci business at Saks Fifth Avenue is now complete, having converted its whole- JEANIE sale presence into directly operated departments. BY Now the company is looking to study its presence in HAIR its Saks doors to maximize opportunities. “The first step was to take over our presence there, and the second step is to consolidate our presence [at Saks], because sometimes we don’t need to have, say, three different points of sale in the same depart- IEROKHINA/MAJOR; ment,” di Marco said. “We can actually consolidate

JENIA categories under one roof, because that’s much more efficient saleswise and, most importantly, because PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY

MODEL: SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2013 WWD.COM Hudson’s Bay Closes on Saks Deal THE BRIEFING BOX Hudson’s Bay expects the deal will create roughly By EVAN CLARK $100 million in annual cost savings within three years. IN TODAY’S WWD To fund the all-cash buyout, Hudson’s Bay sold SAKS FIFTH AVENUE has moved into its new about $1 billion in equity, which included common home at Hudson’s Bay Co. stock and warrants that were issued to HS Investment Hudson’s Bay said its deal to buy Saks Inc. for $3 L.P., an affiliate of Ontario Teachers’ Pension Plan, billion, which includes debt and expenses, closed and funds advised by West Face Capital Inc. Tina Veshaguri today. Saks stockholders get $16 for each of their The debt financing included a $2 billion senior is the subject of shares, and Hudson’s Bay’s chief executive offi- secured term loan, a $300 million junior secured “Model Call” on cer Richard Baker gets a third, and more upscale, term loan and a $950 million asset-based loan. WWD.com.

chain for his retail business, which already included Saks shareholders gave the final thumbs-up MANAGEMENT Hudson’s Bay and Lord & Taylor. to the deal on Friday, after which the retailer de-

Much of the money from the sale will go to tailed which executives would leave the firm, fol- MODEL Mexican telecom billionaire Carlos Slim Helú, who lowing Stephen I. Sadove, chairman and ceo, and held 23.1 million Saks shares, valued at $370 mil- Ron Frasch, president and chief merchant. Among TRUMP lion, and Tod’s SpA chairman and ceo Diego Della those moving on were Robert Wallstrom, executive OF Valle, who held 22.7 million shares, valued at $362.4 vice president and president of Saks Off 5th; Denise million, as of last count. Incandela, executive vice president and chief mar- All together, the Toronto-based Hudson’s Bay now keting officer, and Terron Schaefer, executive vice COURTESY has 320 doors, including 179 full-line specialty de- president and chief creative officer. PHOTO partment stores, 72 outlet stores and 69 home stores. Saks will remain headquartered in New York.

Louis Vuitton has named Nicolas Ghesquière its new artistic Men’s Wearhouse Rejects Latest Offer director of women’s collections. Page 1

THE POSSIBILITY of a sweeter offer from Jos. A. Bank represented a 42.4 percent premium to MW’s clos- The transformation of Gucci’s North America business is in Clothiers Inc. hasn’t altered The Men’s Wearhouse ing price of $33.71 on Sept. 17. full motion. Page 1 Inc.’s firm opposition to its competitor’s takeover bid Shares of MW closed Monday at $42.14, down 2.8 or the idea of letting its suitor see its books. percent. Bank shares declined 0.5 percent to $47.71. Dennis Basso has opened a store on Madison Avenue which Men’s Wearhouse said Monday that, after consulta- Robert Wildrick, chairman of Jos. A. Bank, said is triple the size of his old store a few blocks away. Page 5 tion with its financial and legal advisers, it concluded the company was “disappointed” by MW’s refusal “it is not in the best interest of the company’s share- to supply a limited amount of information and Bloomingdale’s on Friday will open a 115,000-square-foot holders to provide Jos. A. Bank with access to non- its choice “not to explore the potential of Jos. A. unit in the Glendale Galleria in . Page 5 public information concerning Men’s Wearhouse.” Bank’s proposal for the benefit of their sharehold- The retailer reiterated its earlier position that the ers. Their board’s position is a matter for consider- Sweet Pea’s manufacturing capabilities have shot up like $48 a share, or about $2.4 billion, offered for the com- ation by the shareholders of Men’s Wearhouse. Jack’s giant beanstalk. Page 6 pany “significantly undervalues Men’s Wearhouse.” “For our part, we stand by our previous state- Jos. A. Bank Thursday said it would consider ment and will keep our proposal open until Nov. 14, Marvin Klapper, who had an illustrious 45-year career with raising its original bid if provided with the opportu- 2013,” he concluded. Page 7 nity to conduct “limited due diligence” of its archri- “It is difficult to understand why the board took Fairchild Publications and WWD, died on Sunday. val men’s specialty store chain. Jos. A. Bank said this position, especially in view of the many Men’s the offer to boost the price would expire on Nov. 14 Wearhouse shareholders who have asked that IMG Fashion plans to outsource production of its fashion if “good faith discussions” with MW hadn’t begun. the company meet with our client,” said Gilbert week events in New York and Miami. Page 7 “Our board and management teams are committed Harrison, chairman of Financo Inc., which is advis- to creating value for our shareholders,” said Douglas ing Jos. A. Bank on the offer. The Los Angeles County Museum of Art’s Art + Film Gala on Ewert, president, chief executive officer and a director Harrison said Jos. A. Bank is not walking away Saturday night drew stars from both worlds. Page 9 of MW. “We are enthusiastic about Men’s Wearhouse’s just yet. “It’s not over until the fat lady sings, and prospects and are confident that our strategic plan will we’re not singing yet,” he said. Fred Segal next year will launch its first designer collaboration deliver more value to our shareholders than Jos. A. Wildrick said last week that there are no plans with Kravitz Design called Fred Segal x Kravitz Design. Page 10 Bank’s inadequate, highly conditional proposal.” to launch a hostile takeover bid should MW adhere The unsolicited $48-a-share offer, originally to its earlier rejection of Jos. A. Bank’s offer. Men’s on Friday launched “WSJ Shops,” proposed on Sept. 18 and made public on Oct. 9, Wearhouse is receiving financial guidance from an e-commerce site. Page 10 would be funded from cash on hand, financing and BofA Merrill Lynch and J.P. Morgan Securities and $250 million in new equity capital from private legal advice from Willkie Farr & Gallagher LLP. AmfAR will launch its first foray into India when it hosts equity firm Golden Gate Capital. MW rejected the — ARNOLD J. KARR, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS amfAR India in Mumbai on Nov. 17. Page 11 bid at the time it became public. The original offer FROM JEAN E. PALMIERI Sir Philip Green and his team last week visited around 25 Nordstrom stores with Topshop departments. Page 12

Bangladesh Board Proposes 77% Wage Hike A Fendi eyewear capsule collection designed by Thierry Lasry “It is a reasonable increase, and the workers’ will bow for spring 2015. Page 12 By MAYU SAINI representative should be happy with this,” Rubana Huq, managing director of the Mohammadi Group, Didier Dubot Joaillerie today in New York will present the THE WAGE BOARD set up in June in Bangladesh on said. “The wage market is not standardized in Nicola Formichetti x Didier Dubot collection. Page 12 Monday recommended a 77 percent increase in the Bangladesh, and many sectors draw a lot less, and minimum wage for textiles and apparel industry work- many don’t even have a minimum wage ceiling.” ON WWD.COM ers to 5,300 taka, or $68, a month, from $38 a month. Industry analysts said the final number will be ap- The second-largest garment exporter in proved by the Ministry of Labour and Employment, the world after , the garment industry in which could have a say in raising or lowering MODEL CALL: WWD recently sat down with 20-year-old Bangladesh has been under pressure from workers the proposed amount. Given that elections in Tina Veshaguri, fresh off her debut New York season, as well as international organizations after a series Bangladesh are coming up in the next three months, where she walked the likes of Theyskens’ Theory, of disasters in the past year have taken the lives of the government must factor in the financial support A Détacher and Delpozo. For more, see WWD.com. more than 1,250 workers. of the business community as well as a large mass of Workers have been demanding higher wages and votes from the four million workers employed by the better working conditions with a series of protests garment industry, according to analysts. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. that have intensified over the last two months. They The wage has been calculated to include various ex- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. have been seeking 8,112 takas, or $102, as a minimum penses, including 3,200 takas as the basic salary, 1,280 COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. wage, a figure that employers say is unacceptable. The takas as house rent, 300 takas for food subsidy, 320 takas VOLUME 206, NO. 93. TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters as medical expenses and 200 takas for transport. additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Association had proposed a minimum wage of 4,200 Wages were last increased in 2010, when they Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, takas, or $54, on Friday, prompting a fresh round of went up from 1,662 takas ($21.39) to the present Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, discussion before coming up with the 5,300 takas. 3,000 takas ($38.62). and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver The six-member wage board, which is made up Reactions to the plan will be tempered over the Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North of representatives of the government, labor and the next few days by the 60-hour shutdown that has Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. 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First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt workers,” said A.K. Roy, chairman of the wage board. The wage increase was partially based on a visit of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request After the BGMEA made its latest proposal on to and Vietnam that representatives of the for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at Friday, workers again staged protests, with blockades board took in October. Organized by the International www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that on the highway on Sunday as well as violent attacks on Labor Organization, “the study tour was a good opportu- we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at factories. Meanwhile, employers feel that this amount nity for us to better understand each other’s arguments,” P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED is higher than what they can factor into their budgets. said Fazlul Haque Montu, executive president of the ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER The wage board’s proposal on Monday was met by Jatiya Sramik League, who is a member of the board. 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The fi rst award show honoring creativity for advertising and marketing in fashion, beauty and retail. 4 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2013 Ghesquière Takes the Reins at Vuitton

{Continued from page one} designer Darren Spaziani to spearhead new lines of “very high-end” leather goods to complement existing collec- tions. Spaziani, who worked at Vuitton from 2004 to 2006, was previously di- rector of accessories design at Proenza Schouler, and he had also been design director of accessories at Balenciaga under Ghesquière. “Louis Vuitton has always incarnated for me the symbol of ultimate luxury, inno- vation and exploration,” Ghesquière said Monday. “I am very honored of the mission that I am entrusted with, and proud to join the history of this great maison. We share common values and a vision.” Ghesquière, 42, succeeds , the American designer who stepped down from Vuitton last month after a storied 16- year tenure to focus on developing his signature brand and ready his namesake company for an initial public offering. Hired by Vuitton in 1997 to bring the company into the modern fashion age, Jacobs introduced ready-to-wear, shoes, fashion jewelry and eyewear to a brand known primarily for luggage and handbags. A darling of the media, Jacobs brought lots of attention and fashion credibility to the brand, tapping celebrity pitchwom- en including Madonna, Jennifer Lopez, Uma Thurman and Sofia Coppola. The American designer took a freewheel- ing approach to Vuitton’s women’s rtw, trotting out lacy French confections one season; hip-hop-inspired streetwear the next. His all-black swan song collection last month was inspired by showgirls and featured dramatic feathered headdresses. Ghesquière is expected to crystallize a new feminine image for the heritage brand, which will mark its 160th anniver- sary in 2014. While leather goods continue to ac- count for the vast majority of Vuitton’s sales — estimated at as much as 90 per- cent — it is understood the rtw business operates at a slight profit and ranks as one of the most sizable in the LVMH empire. At Balenciaga, Ghesquière cultivated an aura of hyper-exclusivity, staging rap- id-fire shows, accentuating an experimen- tal approach that widely influenced other

runways and made him a popular figure SADLI among editors and retailers — at least the happy few invited to his fashion party. KARIM

The Frenchman’s challenge will be BY to adapt to Vuitton’s massive scale, vast Nicolas Ghesquière global audience and a brand image some- PHOTO times linked to travel and sporty pursuits, including sailing and fine automobiles. at the cash-cow brand of LVMH. Last And today I would say it would be in ad- than a decade ago for Givenchy. As reported Analysts peg Vuitton’s 2012 rev- December, Vuitton welcomed a new dition to Balenciaga,” he said at the time. in WWD, Dior heavily courted Ghesquière enues at around 7.4 billion euros, or chief executive officer, LVMH veteran “If I want to start my own line, I have to as it sought to replace its disgraced coutu- $10.2 billion at average exchange, mak- Michael Burke, previously ceo at find a very specific and special concept. rier John Galliano, ousted in the wake of ing it the luxury sector’s biggest brand and Fendi, and with prior experience at We are far from this.” racist and anti-Semitic outbursts. by sales — and roughly 25 to 30 times Vuitton in the U.S. One of the stars of the brand reinven- Ghesquière joins LVMH as a legal the size of Balenciaga. Burke in turn tapped Delphine tion era, Ghesquière exited Balenciaga battle with his former employer is Vuitton accounts for roughly half of Arnault, daughter of Bernard Arnault last November after clashing with man- slowly grinding its way through French LVMH’s earnings before interest and and longtime deputy general manager at agement about the future direction of courts. Balenciaga is seeking damages taxes, analysts estimate, and boasts an Dior, to become his second-in-command the company. of 7 million euros, or $9.2 million at cur- EBIT margin of around 42 percent. at Vuitton, responsible for all product- Hailing from the small French town rent exchange, for published remarks Ghesquière must also acclimatize to a related activities. of Loudun and without any formal fash- by Ghesquière it deemed harmful and sprawling company with many creative A key talent scout within LVMH, she ion training, Ghesquière got his start in in violation of its separation agreement and business chiefs across a plethora of is said to have championed Ghesquière fashion by filing, photocopying and cata- with the designer. product categories. for the linchpin Vuitton post. Arnault was loguing fabrics at , On Oct. 15, a legal representative Among Vuitton’s visible designers are also instrumental in recent transactions ultimately landing at Balenciaga and de- for Ghesquière and Sauvé, who is also Kim Jones, men’s studio and style direc- that brought buzzy British designers signing lowly licensed lines, including of- named in the suit, appeared before the tor; Julie de Libran, women’s creative Nicholas Kirkwood and J.W. Anderson fice uniforms, bridal gowns and widows’ Tribunal de Grande Instance of Paris to director and the front woman for cruise into the LVMH fold. dresses for . table its defense. and other collections; Lorenz Baümer, Sources suggested Ghesquière, a Once promoted to the helm of the A date for pleadings has yet to be set, fine jewelry designer, and Jacques tough negotiator, likely fought for the main rtw line in 1997, succeeding but sources familiar with the case said Cavallier-Belletrud, a master perfumer right at LVMH to launch a signature fash- Josephus Thimister, he quickly won ac- it could take up to two years before it brought in to thrust Vuitton into the fra- ion house, long an ambition of his. His claim for sculpted designs straddling fu- winds up completely. grance arena, though a launch is not ex- most recent contracts at Balenciaga in- turistic and Parisian chic. For three sea- Court documents say the French fash- pected before 2016. cluded a clause permitting him to pursue sons, he also designed collections for the ion designer was paid 6.6 million euros, Sources said they expect Ghesquière a namesake brand, giving parent Milan-based house of Callaghan. or $8.7 million at current exchange, as to bring some of his key collaborators, first right of refusal in the event the de- At Balenciaga, he had a penchant compensation for breaking his latest including designer Natacha Ramsay- signer found another business partner for futurism and the Eighties, while ex- employment contracts with Balenciaga, Levi and stylist Marie-Amélie Sauvé. willing to set up a fashion house for him. ploring key silhouettes and themes from signed in 2010 and 2012. Footwear guru Pierre Hardy is also part In a 2005 interview, the designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, a Spaniard who He also walked away with 32 million of his inner circle. (Fabrizio Viti is cur- spoke openly about that eventuality. founded his couture house in 1919 and euros, or $42.3 million, for the purchase rently Vuitton’s style director of shoes.) “It’s one of my dreams. I would love to established himself in Paris in 1936. of his 10 percent stake in the company, Ghesquière’s arrival at Vuitton com- do my own line. I don’t know when and I LVMH has had its eye on Ghesquière for granted to him when then-parent Gucci pletes an overhaul in top leadership don’t know how, but I would like to do it. some years, making overtures to him more Group bought Balenciaga in 2001. WwD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2013 5 WWD.COM Bloomingdale’s Glendale Store Sets New Focus look books, and a “denim seeker” to help By David Moin The Los Angeles unit find the best jean fit. A by-invitation pri- marks Bloomingdale’s vate preview day will donate a portion of Bloomingdale’s is back on the ex- first department store the proceeds to 10 local charities. pansion path, with a 115,000-square-foot opening in three years. Bloomingdale’s executives said unit in the Glendale Galleria in Los they’ve eyed the Glendale Galleria for Angeles set to open Friday. years. The turning point came when The Glendale site advances the mall began a major redevelopment Bloomingdale’s strategy for opening and upgrading. The 1.5-million-square- scaled-down department stores and foot mall, owned by General Growth for trading up. It also marks the retail- Properties Inc., created an outdoor pub- er’s first department store opening in lic plaza, new entrances, new restau- three years. rants and signs, and modernized the food With 86,500 square feet of selling court, the floors, lighting, elevators, esca- space and two levels, Glendale is ex- lators and added chandeliers and water pected to generate about $40 million in features. The mall was built in 1976, and annual volume. The store is comparable is known for housing the first Apple Store in size to Bloomingdale’s units in Santa and the first Disney Store. Monica, Calif., and New York’s SoHo The last department store opened by neighborhood. Aside from that, the ap- Bloomingdale’s, which generated north proach is different: There is greater of $3 billion in revenues last year in 36 glamour inherent in the store design locations, was in Santa Monica in August and in the assortment at Glendale. The 2010. That same month, Bloomingdale’s tone is set right at the outset with Louis began opening outlets and currently Vuitton and Gucci boutiques, 1,800 and shops include Boss Hugo Boss, Moncler board tiling running through the B’way has 13. Earlier in 2010, Bloomingdale’s 1,600 square feet, respectively, flanking and John Varvatos. beauty area with the skylight above, opened its first and only international the entrance from inside the mall, where By comparison, the Santa Monica gold-trimmed fixtures, and 30- to 40-foot- store, in Dubai. the highest traffic is anticipated. store has three vendor shops. The con- high ceilings above women’s footwear Glendale is Bloomingdale’s eighth “Those are two big statements,” said centration in Glendale, explained Jack on the second level. At 4,000 square unit in Southern , 10th in the Michael Gould, Bloomingdale’s chairman Hruska, executive vice president of feet, the jewelry department is pro- state, and 37th in the entire chain. After and chief executive officer, who is step- creative services, elevates the appeal portionally larger than those in other Glendale, the next Bloomingdale’s open- ping down on Feb. 1. “From an assort- to shoppers in the area, particularly Bloomingdale’s locations. There are gen- ing will be in Stanford, Calif., in fall ment point of view, the store is dramati- all the film and television studio work- erously spaced classification areas for 2014, replacing an existing unit. In fall cally more upscale than Santa Monica. ers at Disney, DreamWorks, Pixar and shoes, with 8,500 square feet, as well as 2015, a store will open in the Ala Moana The quality of the lines parallels our San Universal Studios. “Customers in this for denim and T-shirts. mall in . Francisco flagship,” where the appeal is market are very brand-conscious,” Boutiques occupy about 40 percent of “People are talking to Bloomingdale’s also decidedly elevated. “Glendale shows Hruska said. “This is more of a flagship the center core space (cosmetics, foot- about locations in lots of places. We’ve very clearly how the luxury market views presentation. Usually in our smaller wear, jewelry and accessories) while 80 had good growth over the last number of the evolution of Bloomingdale’s, how we locations we don’t have this degree of percent of the ready-to-wear floor is oc- years, so why not? We have fewer stores continue to trade up in value and ser- brand penetration.” cupied by boutiques, and the remainder than either Nordstrom or Neiman’s,” vice, and how we continue to evolve as “The challenge is always how do you is for men’s and kids. The store will be Gould said. The Neiman Marcus Group an upscale, accessible luxury brand,” bring the excitement of our 59th Street manned with personal shoppers called operates 41 Neiman Marcus stores, two Beyond Gucci and Vuitton, brand bou- store [in Manhattan] to a building that is style advisers, in addition to the sales Bergdorf Goodman stores and 36 Last tiques continue to reign. The store is 15 percent of the size,” Gould added. “It’s associates, as well as a Studio Services Call clearance centers. Nordstrom has filled with them, 48 to be precise, primar- not simple. You have to be sensitive to department to help movie studios outfit 117 full-line stores and 131 Nordstrom ily situated around the store’s perime- the local tastes and the customer.” their actors and actresses. Rack outlets. “We have opportunities.” ters. Key designer accessories boutiques Still, executives say the new Bloomingdale’s in Glendale took over Among the most likely targets are the include Chloé, Burberry, Tory Burch and Bloomingdale’s sustains its own brand a former Mervyn’s store, gutted the box Pacific Northwest, Arizona and Texas, Ferragamo. In cosmetics, there are bou- DNA and energy, and isn’t getting over- and expanded the footprint deeper into where Bloomingdale’s has no depart- tiques for Chanel, Illamasqua, La Mer, La run by brand boutiques. “We still have the mall, giving it greater space and tak- ment stores. Prairie, MAC, Sisley and Jo Malone. strong classification presentations in ing over an existing skylight. At night, The retailer could also open addi- Women’s ready-to-wear shops in- denim, T-shirts, shoes and jewelry,” the store will be visible from afar, with a tional freestanding home stores, like the clude All Saints, Burberry, Diane von observed Tony Spring, president and combination of LED illuminated squares Medinah unit in Chicago, Gould suggest- Furstenberg, Helmut Lang, Karen Millen, chief operating officer, who will succeed and pale gray, silver, green and black ed. “We don’t have a separate home-store Maje, Rag & Bone, Sandro, Ted Baker, Gould as ceo. tiles. Inside, associates will be equipped strategy but that doesn’t mean there isn’t Theory, Tory Burch and Vince. Men’s They also cited the familiar checker- with mobile checkout devices and digital an opportunity.” Dennis Basso Reveals Madison Ave. Unit ment in rent this year, Basso which previously was occupied By Rosemary Feitelberg is far from winding down his by a Dolce & Gabbana store. career. “Most people would be Sawicki Tarella is handling the NEW YORK — Having had a looking to ease up after 30 years historic facade, John Lindell is Madison Avenue store here for in business, but I have never felt taking care of the interior and the past 10 of the 30 years he more excited,” he said. “I always Kenneth Alpert will handle the has been in business, Dennis say that when you are doing interior design of the offices. Basso has upped the ante by re- something that you love, it’s not Alpert has created all of Basso’s locating a few blocks north to a work. When I moved to Madison homes. Each of the three sales 10,500-square-foot space. Avenue 10 years ago, I thought floors will have dark gray slate Over the weekend, the de- that was the pinnacle of my busi- floors and glass walls so that the signer quietly opened the doors ness career. Now here I am in a emphasis is on the clothes, and to 825 Madison Avenue. While space three times the size with the first floor features screens a shopper browsed through the an expanded accessories line.” playing runway show footage. fur jackets, sequined evenin- His wholesale showroom will The boutique also has 30 feet of gwear and crocodile clutches on be housed on the fourth floor, frontage on Madison Avenue.

the first floor on Monday morn- and on-site seamstresses were The new monochromatic aquino ing, a crew of contractors was sewing away in what will be contemporary layout should Dennis Basso wants to busy plastering and hammering an atelier, which he noted was help boost 2014 sales by 10 per- john put the emphasis on the by the three floors above. During a uncommon for the neighbor- cent, according to Basso, who is clothes in the new unit.

walk-through — which at times hood, “very much like Paris in predicting a 6 percent gain this photo was a bit precarious — Basso the Fifties,” said Basso, adding year. The midcentury home fur- motioned toward what he de- that an attendant will always nishings, blankets and throws was quick to note “not a navy is used for a design studio and scribed as a floating glass stair- be at the ready with silver-tray — something Basso has done on blazer because you don’t need to manufacturing. With five other case, an expansive area for his espresso service for shoppers. a customized basis for interior come to Dennis Basso for a navy boutiques and concept shops, first mink-covered midcentury “We’re back to customers really designers in the past — will now blazer.” (Retail prices would the designer is still getting used furniture and a residential-type, wanting to be treated like cus- be offered to shoppers. range from about $150 to $500.) to his new Madison Avenue ad- fourth-floor office with a Juliet tomers again. When customers Having introduced ready-to- The boutique will be open dress. “This location is signifi- balcony. “It’s going to be like a are treated well, they really want wear six years ago, which now seven days a week through the cant to where the Dennis Basso mini Dennis Basso department to return to that store, or maybe includes resort and pre-fall, the holidays, and its grand opening brand is going,” he said. “Let’s store,” he said. “Being a true even call before to see if that designer plans to introduce more party is set for Dec. 10. While put it this way: The day I went salesman, the dressing rooms salesperson is working,” he said. daytime pieces. A bridge line for 16 staffers are based in the into business in 1983, I did not are already in.” Basso has enlisted four archi- department stores and specialty uptown location, the company imagine having a store next to With a 15-year lease that will tectural and interior specialists stores is also in the works po- also has a 30,000-square-foot Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino be nearly a $3 million commit- to design the landmark building, tentially for next year, but Basso facility in Long Island City that a door away.”

w05a005a;7.indd 5 11/4/13 7:03 PM 11042013190348 6 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2013

TEXTILES Sweet Pea Embraces Made in USA

By REBECCA KLEINMAN

MIAMI — Sweet Pea’s manufacturing capabilities have shot up like Jack’s giant beanstalk. In February, the Miami-based women’s apparel firm relocated from a 40,000-square-foot factory where it had produced a portion of its signature

nylon mesh separates and private label FERNANDO since the late Nineties, to a nearby 140,000-square-foot vertical operation on JUAN the border of Miami proper and Hialeah, BY a city to the northwest that was once a re- gional hub of manufacturing. PHOTOS Though assembly continues to be The switchover has created more outsourced to Latin America, the $26 demand for technicians, while some million investment in state-of-the-art, departments have been downsized. green technology and machinery made Whereas extracting water from dyed in and Germany gives founders fabric ropes formerly required two Mario and Stacy Frati hands-on control workers, a single employee merely ob- of raw materials, from spinning of yarn serves the step’s new computerized to cutting garments. Corino machine. A few steps must still Like many U.S. companies, the Fratis be done by hand: Fabric spreaders train had grown disillusioned with the infe- Stacy Frati six to 12 months to qualify as an assis- rior quality and late deliveries that can tant, while a cutter takes even longer. often result from outsourcing. Forced Many of the 74 full-time employees have to choose between retiring and going That their own collection has been car- the Zara model to turn around garments worked there for 20 years. vertical, they bet that others were will- ried at Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom and in weeks versus months.” “Our biggest challenge is filling labor ing to spend a few extra dollars a unit Anthropologie for many years cemented Beyond reorders and scrambling positions,” Mario said. “If I place a clas- for top-notch quality control and speed their reputation. to jump on missed trends — the fac- sified ad for a dyer, no one under 75 to market, particularly fill-in orders, “We are truly fast in the fast-fashion tory holds a position on other fabrics would apply.” which have become their calling cards. era,” said Mario. “We’re influenced by including rayon spandex jersey and The Fratis said a key factor in firms polyester chiffon — retailers can tweak like theirs successfully competing Sweet Pea designs for a desired look against global sourcing Goliaths is to such as cropping peplums or lowering guarantee the same level of code compli- necklines. Executives with their design ance. Their desks are piled with exhaus- teams in tow turned the factory and its tively thick contracts regarding safety, 3,000-square-foot showroom into a hot ethics and garment testing. spot during Miami swim week this sum- “Dotting your i’s and crossing your t’s mer. Many visitors had never seen a fac- to become a validated vendor is how you tory and when showing them around, stay in this game,” Stacy said. “Exceeding Mario, a fourth-generation textile manu- these expectations is our slingshot.” facturer whose Florentine family owned Beyond their current annual pro- factories making fabrics for markets from duction of 2.1 million units with five to automotive interiors to cashmere world- eight times growth capacity, the Fratis wide, compared before-and-after results consider their mission much more than between his new and old machines. business-minded. They don’t believe all “This Brazzoli dyeing machine re- manufacturing is lost to Asia, but that duces water by 90 percent and cuts the U.S. has a greater opportunity than the process in half, the warper’s RPMs Europe to reclaim a piece of the pie if Here and upper have been increased from 400 to 1,000, entrepreneurs pony up and take risks. right: inside the and fabric printers have gone from 10 “We’re already proving you can beat Sweet Pea factory. to 21 yards per minute on a quarter less China in Miami, and we’re not even at electricity,” he said. our best level yet,” said Mario. ‘Factory Floor’ Event Features NYC Firms ficer of Manufacture New York, said, “There is By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN such a talented generation of new fashion entre- preneurs.…These designers want their products NEW YORK — The ongoing rejuvenation of to say ‘Made in USA,’ and to be manufactured in the city’s apparel manufacturing and design a sustainable and socially responsible manner. communities will serve up a special event — This event will introduce shoppers to a wide range “Fashion on the Factory Floor” — taking place of cutting-edge emerging designers, which will for two weekends this month in the Sunset Park have the added benefit of creating and supporting area of Brooklyn. skilled jobs in . What a great gift for The event is being organized and curated by the holiday season.” the Pratt Center’s Made in NYC initiative with New York City is home to a diverse and vibrant support from Manufacture New York, Save the manufacturing sector with nearly 6,000 manufac- Garment Center and other leaders in New York’s turing businesses employing about 75,000 people, fashion industry. “Fashion on the Factory Floor” organizers noted. These jobs pay an average of will present an opportunity for up-and-coming $54,000 a year, significantly higher than service designers who are committed to local manu- sector or retail jobs. facturing to sell their goods directly to a large In addition to being able to purchase goods at consumer audience. Jamestown Properties, one the Factory Floor, visitors will learn about the of New York’s largest owner of industrial real manufacturing sector through live demonstrations, estate, will host the event at Industry City, a six- information sessions and interactions with an in- La Lame, Exclusive Suppliers of Stretch Fabrics million-square-foot industrial waterfront campus dustrial landscape. This exposure to manufactur- at 241 37th Street in Sunset Park. The event will ing processes is intended to inform visitors on the run for two weekends, Nov. 23 and 24 and Nov. 30 importance of local manufacturing and what it (Small Business Saturday) and Dec. 1. takes to make a product in New York City. STRETCH AND RIGID ALLOVER AND NARROW LACES, PVC LEATHER, SPACERS About 80 designers will showcase their ap- Made in NYC is the leading hub for industrial POWER MESH, MICROFIBER KNITS, METALLIC TULLE AND LACES, FOIL parel, accessories and jewelry at the event. and manufacturing information in the city, with GLITTER, FLOCK, EMBOSSING, BURNOUT PRINTS ON: MESH, TRICOT AND VELVETS NOVELTY ELASTIC TRIM: METALLIC, SHEER RUFFLES, LACE, PRINTS AND RHINESTONES Interested designers can apply through an on- a comprehensive directory of businesses that line, open-call application form, and a group of manufacture within the five boroughs. The group leaders from New York’s fashion industry will supports more than 1,000 designers and manu- make the selection. The event aims to promote facturers by connecting them with customers and the Made in NYC brand and drive sales to local services to grow business and create jobs. More La Lame, Inc. manufacturers during one of the most important information about the programs and event can be consumer spending periods of the year. found at madeinnyc.org, factoryfloorbrooklyn.com Bob Bland, founder and chief executive of- and manufactureny.org. WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2013 7 WWD.COM

obituary

“Marvin epitomized the industry dur- Marvin Klapper ing that era, which was all about interper- Marvin Klapper, WWD Textile Editor, 91 sonal relationships and understanding sary of the industry’s language and a and communicating the complexities that By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN guide to its intricacies, and several other were going on,” said Nicholas Hahn, who industry books. now runs his own consulting company MARvIN KlAppER, who retired in 1992 “As an editor, Marvin was among but knew Klapper as president and chief after a 45-year career with Fairchild Fairchild’s best,” said Edward Nardoza, executive officer of Cotton Incorporated. publications and WWD, died Sunday at editor in chief of WWD. “Aside from his “When you had a question or had an the age of 91. journalistic talents, his colleagues loved opinion that needed to be expressed, you His daughter, Sherry, said Klapper him. We remember his wonderfully bois- called Marvin. He had a great sense of succumbed to a multitude of ailments at terous personality and those famous humor and could present complex issues Grandelle Rehabilitation and Nursing Klapper business lunches — typically at in a light-hearted but meaningful way. He Center in long Beach, N.Y. Nicola paone — of multiple courses and was a great guy and an institution for so Klapper was a fixture in the WWD wide-ranging conversation, always in- many years at WWD.” newsroom, a mentor to many young re- corporating some kind of fish story. His Bruce Roberts, former president of porters, liked by all and affectionately natural warmth and gravelly wit man- the Textile Distributors Association, said, called “The Great One” by some for his aged to take the tension right out of any “Marvin was a real people person. He was vivacious and amiable personality, his pressured situation, inside or outside a guy you could trust — when you told him booming voice and his resemblance to the newsroom. something was off the record, you knew Jackie Gleason, with whom he shared “In addition to his insightful coverage that would be honored. He really knew the nickname. of the tug-of-war between free trade and the industry so well. He was also one of When he retired, Klapper was an as- protectionism, or the high-stakes battle the great lunch people of all time.” sociate editor and senior textile editor between man-made and natural fibers, When he retired, Klapper said, “I am for WWD. Marvin’s instincts were uncanny. In fact, leaving the world of fashion for the world Born in New York City on Sept. 5, he was the first to seize upon the techno- of fish.” He owned an 18-foot Sea Ox that 1922, Klapper served with the U.S. Army logical revolution that transformed not was berthed in Freeport, N.Y., on long artillery in World War II before gradu- only the global supply chain but the en- and he didn’t worry about stubbing the Island, near his home. The name of the ating from New York University with a tire industry,” added Nardoza. toes of major advertisers as long as he boat was Marvelous Marv. bachelor of science degree in biology Mort Sheinman, retired managing got the story right. He once covered a After he retired, Klapper was the in 1946. He started at Fairchild on Jan. editor of WWD and a longtime col- luncheon where some big-shot textile ex- guiding spirit behind a memoir enti- 2, 1947, as a member of the research de- league of Klapper’s, said, “Marvin ecutive made a speech railing against im- tled “Fashion, Retailing and a Bygone partment. He moved to the editorial staff Klapper was one of the main reasons I ports and saying how important it was to Era: Inside WWD,” published in 2005 in 1951 as a reporter and a year later loved working at WWD. When I joined buy American. Everyone at the lunch got by Beard Books. It was a look back found his true calling when he moved to the paper in 1960, he was a one-man some cheap little tchotchke as a souve- by Klapper and six other former edi- the textile department. welcoming committee, a mentor to me nir. Marvin looked at it closely and real- tors: Isadore Barmash, Ed Gold, Sandy In 1996, Klapper was named editor of and to many others who came after, ized it was made in Japan, a fact that did parker, Sid Rutberg, Sheinman and HFD, or Home Furnishings Daily, guid- and one of the great storytellers, an not go unreported in his article.” Stanley Siegelman. ing that newspaper until he returned to ebullient, joyous man who made every- Klapper built a reputation in the in- In addition to his daughter, Klapper WWD three years later to direct coverage one smile. I always looked forward to dustry for his wide expertise and large is survived by a sister, Bertine Fields. of the textile industry. Klapper embraced having lunch with him, and he always personality. He could often be heard He was predeceased by his wife, this position with grace and aplomb, and looked forward to having lunch. across the newsroom as he discussed in- Blanche, who died in 2002. The family his writing was prolific and informative. “He knew the textile industry as few tricate textile issues with sources, or lis- said a private, graveside service will be Klapper wrote “Fabric Almanac,” a glos- people did, he reported what he knew, tened to their jokes. held on Tuesday. IMG Sets Fashion Week Changes reduce our U.S.-based management produc- By ROSEMARY FEITElBERG tion staff,” Bennett wrote. “While it’s tough to see longtime members of our team leave, NEW YORK — IMG Fashion on Monday we are excited to continue growing our net- informed designers of plans to outsource work and strengthening our division.” production of its Mercedes-Benz Fashion An IMG spokesman declined to comment Week events in New York and Miami. other than to say additional announcements As a result, longtime New York- will be made in the coming weeks. based IMG Fashion production staff- Another staffer, Jarrad Clark, is now ers Christina Neault and Jason Brandt vice president, creative director. have been laid off, as well as Heather Going forward, IMG Fashion will tighten Stamm. Taryn O’Meara will help through its ties to longtime partner laurie DeJong the transition, according to an e-mail and her firm, lDJ productions. DeJong will from senior vice president and manag- take on a more prominent role, overseeing ing director Catherine Bennett of IMG all key aspects of production for MBFW in Fashion & Retail properties. The deci- New York and Miami. Reached via e-mail sions were made after completing com- Monday in Rwanda, where lDJ is working prehensive due diligence, she wrote. on an initiative to help build a school for “We view this as a key step in trans- the arts and a fashion week, DeJong said, forming our business and major progress “lDJ has been providing venue and lobby towards delivering our vision: Our vision management for many years and [we] look is to be the global gateway of fashion. We forward to our expanded role that now con- aim to inspire, present and unite fash- sists of overseeing all key areas of produc- ion’s key constituents from creation to tion. The IMG Fashion team will be unveil- end consumer,” Bennett wrote. ing some exciting plans in the next couple “As part of this transformation, it was weeks and we look forward to sharing them necessary for IMG Fashion to immediately with the fashion community.” PVH, G-III Close on Bass Deal pvH CORp. said Monday it completed the of putting sales and gross margin pres- $50 million sale of its G.H. Bass & Co. foot- sure on the business.” wear division to G-III Apparel Group ltd. Bass’ 160 outlet stores generated about The firm opted to sell Bass following $250 million in volume, accounting for its acquisition of The Warnaco Group about 40 percent of the retail sales of Inc. in February in order to focus on pvH’s heritage brands retail business. the Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger That heritage retail business suffered a 9 brands, which have provided the bulk of percent drop in same-store sales during its growth in recent years. the first six months of 2013, with softness at Kristin Burrows, president of Bass, Bass the leading contributor to the decline. will report to Bill Hutchison, president G-III projected the acquisition would of G-III’s Wilsons leather unit. subtract 10 cents a share from its earnings Emanuel Chirico, chairman and chief for the year but be accretive afterward. executive officer of pvH, told WWD last pvH expects to incur a pretax loss of month that Bass “is a heritage brand about $20 million in connection with the that is well known, but we have not been transaction. The divestiture will dilute investing in the brand from a marketing fourth-quarter earnings by 5 cents a share point of view. That has the ramification on a non-GAAp basis. — ARNOLD J. KARR

w05a007a;9.indd 7 11/4/13 7:31 PM 11042013193308 8 WWD tuesday, november 5, 2013 WWD.COM Gucci’s di Marco Outlines Plans for North America {Continued from page one} whole, the signs have been positive. The only reason it gives the right and proper presentation of the why the sign is not as positive as it could be is be- brand. That’s the process we started and will be cause in the States you also have Hawaii, which has continuing in the next months and years.” obviously been affected by the decrease in Japanese Asked how he envisioned such in-store consoli- traffic and the depreciation of the yen. But if you dation, di Marco elaborated, “It depends on stores look at mainland U.S., it’s been positive. What is and space. At the end of the day, you have hand- interesting to note is that our growth with the local bags and small leather goods, and you have belts in clientele is over 14 percent in North America.” another spot on the floor, and then silks and jewel- De Pous said that in the product mix in the ry. If you combine these categories, you walk into a U.S., “Ready-to-wear is actually one of the stron- store and there’s a proposition which says who you gest categories in growth for both men and wom- en’s. We still have potential for double-digit growth.” Gucci is planning to add sev- eral new stores in the near fu- ture. Next year, it is set to open a second unit in Seattle, at The Shops at The Bravern in the up- scale Bellevue area of the city. Gucci has plans for four addi- tional freestanding stores in 2015, and six more in 2016. Next year, the company will also renovate its Beverly Hills store on Rodeo Drive, which still features an interior concept from 1999, when was at the brand’s creative helm. There are also plans to recon-

figure the Chicago location by designating its second floor for retail, which is how the store was when it first opened during the era of the brand. “We’re planning to reach and

possibly exceed the $1 billion mark in the country, which I think is achievable,” di Marco said. To better serve customers, Gucci is fine-tuning the shopping experience. “Inevitably, you have ’’ certain customers who want to have a certain shopping expe- rience,” di Marco said. “We all talk about traffic, and traffic is definitely important…sometimes you walk into a store and want to have a shopping experience. This goes beyond VIP rooms. “We have great sales associ- ates, we have great artisans,” he IANNACCONE IANNACCONE added. “The best thing would be to have our own people meet

THOMAS our customers, and offer them BY whatever we could.” That could include opening NEW FOR FALL/WINTER 2014/15 PHOTO stores during special hours just

are as a brand. Saleswise, it’s also much more efficient to have DOME BEAD cross-selling opportunities.” We all talk about traffic, and traffic A similar change in ap- proach has taken place at Holt is definitely important...sometimes With its spiky character, rock ‘n’ roll glamour, and Renfrew in Canada. “The most important thing cool romanticism, Swarovski’s new Dome Bead gives is that at Saks and at Holt you walk into a store and want jewelry, fashion accessories, and DIY an edgy chic. Renfrew, what we’re seeing is just the beginning of the story, to have a shopping experience. Softer and more highly faceted than its famous forbear, and we are seeing double-digit the Artemis Bead, it comes as Dome Bead Large growth,” di Marco noted. This goes beyond VIP rooms. Gucci is currently in nego- and Dome Bead Small in six colors and nine effects. tiations with Neiman Marcus — Patrizio di Marco, Gucci Create a contrast by putting it with round elements for the same kind of takeover and consolidation to ultimately such as Globe Bead, 5000 Bead, and Crystal Pearls. strengthen the Gucci business at the specialty for specific customers. Improving the company’s store chain. communication — from its humanitarian efforts to Call now for details +1.800.463.0849 “The end result will be a net number of stores corporate social responsibility — provides anoth- or email [email protected] which is lower than the number we have now in er channel to connect with consumers. The Chime terms of presence within Neiman’s, but a much for Change campaign, which kicked off in higher consolidation so that, at the end, the pres- earlier this year, is planning to mark its first anni- WWW.SWAROVSKI.COM/PROFESSIONAL ence will be more significant and the business will versary next year in the U.S., though the company still be quite healthy,” di Marco noted. didn’t disclose further details. In January, the company moved Christophe Another way the brand has been reaching consum- de Pous, previously president and ceo of Gucci ers is Gucci Kids, which is largely a wholesale busi- Japan, to the same role at Gucci America Inc. ness but, stressed di Marco, one that didn’t exist two De Pous said of Neiman’s, “We will keep some years ago and now rakes in more than $100 million. wholesale and convert some to leased operations. We Asked whether his baby daughter Greta, who was born will create the world of Gucci where the consumer in early March, has a closet full of Gucci,’’ di Marco hes- finds the Gucci environment, not only one category.” itated. “Well, actually no,” he said. “Her mom [Gucci But, he added, “the shoes remain mostly a wholesale creative director ] is quite democratic. business because of the business model in America. She is choosing a number of different brands, but yes, “The business in the U.S. has been very good,” we placed an order with the company just recently de Pous said. “If you look at the U.S. business as a and should be receiving some Gucci soon.”

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DICAPRIO PHOTO BY JASON MERRITT/GETTY IMAGES FOR LACMA; ALL OTHERS BY AMY GRAVES 10 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2013 Fred Segal to Team With Kravitz Carlos Falchi Returns The collection marks Kravitz The deal between Fred Segal To Contemporary Arena By LISA LOCKWOOD Design’s first collaboration with and Kravitz Design was brokered a retailer. “I grew up shopping at by Culture + Commerce, a Sandow FRED SEGAL, the California re- Fred Segal and have always felt company and design management By ROXANNE ROBINSON tailer owned by Sandow, will next connected to the brand and what agency that represents both brands. year launch its first designer col- it stands for — a vibe of laid-back “With a shared pulse on the lat- FOR CARLOS FALCHI, the second time around is in the bag. laboration with Kravitz Design luxury that resonates far beyond est trends and a background in Two years after the Brazilian designer launched a contem- called Fred Segal x Kravitz Design. Los Angeles,” said Kravitz, found- California style, putting Kravitz and porary collection with sourcing firm Li & Fung that failed to The offering will feature er of Kravitz Design, who wears Fred Segal together was a natural take off, Falchi is at it again, this time with new partner L & at least 10 unisex items span- many hats as a rock musician, connection,” said Michele Caniato, Leung, which also produces handbags for brands that include ning fashion accessories, cloth- writer, producer, designer and president of Culture + Commerce. Iris by Iris Apfel, Carlos by Carlos Santana and Emma Fox. ing, travel accessories and a Fred Segal, known for The former Falchi by Falchi contemporary line of limited-edition motorcycle. dressing celebrities, rock bags, shoes and jewelry had one shipment to Macy’s for Each item will be designed by Lenny stars and locals, is rooted in its Brazil promotion. Falchi had also tapped Li & Fung Kravitz Design as envisioned Kravitz Hollywood culture. Founded to take on production and distribution for his main “cou- by Lenny Kravitz. Prices range in 1961, the retailer was ac- ture” collection. “The Macy’s promotion from $100 for accessories up quired by Sandow in 2012. Bags from did well at retail, but when it came to to $100,000 for the limited-edi- Last month, it opened a the new production, we both realized that tion motorcycle. 2,200-square-foot location collection. small U.S. production was not their Supporting the launch is at the new international niche and my couture line has al- Mark Styler Co. Ltd., which is terminal at Los Angeles ways been made in the U.S.,” said opening several Fred Segal International Airport. In the Falchi, who also sells his retail locations in Japan be- works are branded products, moderately priced Chi ginning next year. Fred Segal e-commerce and lifestyle des- by Falchi brand of bags, x Kravitz Design will be sold tinations around the world, jackets, watches and hats at Fred Segal stores in starting with Tokyo in fall exclusively on HSN. and Los Angeles, as well as the 2014. Sandow said Fred Segal For Falchi’s second go Philippe Starck-designed SLS plans to open another store in at contemporary, he’s Las Vegas, where Fred Segal Los Angeles next year and is focusing exclu- will open seven boutiques next actively looking for space in sively on bags year, including stores for wom- Miami. As for the Los Angeles AQUINO with leather

en’s, men’s jeans, jewelry, shoes stores, he said, “Santa Monica JOHN and home. The collection will is doing well, and Melrose is BY also be sold at fredsegal.com. doing even better.” PHOTO

“When we thought about BITTON Sandow said the Fred Segal launching Fred Segal’s first store at LAX is the largest designer collaboration in 50 store in the airport, except for years, we approached Lenny MATHIEU the multibrand duty-free mall. and calf hair looks that mimic his main collection’s concepts BY and his team at Kravitz He noted that LAX is at 40 per- (even the brand name is the same) but with prices that retail

Design,” said Adam I. Sandow, PHOTO cent retail capacity and it’s al- from $228 for a cross-body camera style to $348 for a North/ chairman and chief executive ready exceeding expectations. South tote, capping out at $598 for an oversize calf hair bag. officer of Sandow. “With his L.A. actor. (He plays the role of Cinna Over the next 12 months, it will be L & Leung president Lisa Nunziata said her goal is to cre- roots, sense of style and impec- in “The Hunger Games” films). at 100 percent capacity. “It’s been a ate a collection that’s strong on brand, leather and function. cable eye for design, Lenny really Kravitz Design has done huge success so far,” said Sandow. When asked if she was concerned that customers might con- understands the Fred Segal brand multiple projects ranging from “Price does not seem to be a barri- fuse the main line and the contemporary one, she replied, and aesthetic. He was the perfect chandeliers for Swarovski’s er,” he said, citing strong sales with “We don’t want them to know the difference.” partner for our inaugural exclu- Crystal Palace Collection to re- custom leather jackets by Gregory Design director Steve Quiles, formerly of Lucky Brand, sive collection.” inventing Starck’s classic Kartell Siff retailing for between $2,000 said the contemporary line’s interest is in the details, Sandow said the first products Mademoiselle chair. It has also and $3,000, and sunglasses by from the adjustable buckle on the Y-shaped shoulder will be launched in the stores in designed suites at the SLS Hotel Anna-Karin Karlsson and Leisure straps of a cross-body style to an appliqué in a chevron the second quarter of next year. Miami Beach, as well as a two- Society, ranging in price from $600 pattern on a crescent-shaped hobo. A python print, a croc There will be 10 products on a story penthouse recording studio to $900. He said the store is mostly embossment and a cobra pattern burnout have a similar rolling schedule over the course of at the Setai Hotel and Residences catering to international travelers exotic look of the main collection. All the leathers are 12 months. Eventually, they plan to and the 47-story bayfront condo- who are leaving Los Angeles. “They sourced in Brazil, with the bags produced in China. build a wholesale business around minium project Paramount Bay, want to take a piece of L.A. home The line makes its debut in market this week and is it, starting in 2015, said Sandow. both in Miami. with them,” he said. slated to hit retail for a May-June transitional delivery.

“It kind of goes back to that Scott and Banana Republic have MEMO PAD separation of church and state thing,” collaborated on a 50-piece holiday he said. “We make news first. Everything collection that hits stores worldwide and that is digital is a complement to it.” online on Dec. 5. BLURRED LINES: The Wall Street Journal — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD Catherine Sadler, global chief marketing is selling more than the news. On Friday, officer of Banana Republic, said that the newspaper launched “WSJ Shops,” an PARTY TIME: A holiday ad campaign “L’Wren is very much about glamour,” e-commerce site that is now a permanent ushering in the arrival of Banana and the collaboration is based on addition to its homepage and the broader Republic L’Wren Scott kicks off this party dressing. The campaign was Dow Jones family of publications. week. Carter Smith photographed the photographed at The Plaza hotel in New Running year-round, “The Shops” is ads, featuring party shots of L’Wren York and styled by Adam Glassman, creative essentially a souped-up version of the Scott surrounded by a bevy of models director of O, The Oprah Magazine. The e-commerce gift guide the newspaper including Svieta Nemkova, Ashley Scott, collection has a glamorous holiday- unveiled last holiday, according to Maritza, Lydia Carron, Ryan Bertroche, Sean at-home theme and includes black Zachary Martz, WSJ retail development Altemose and Bobby N. velvet jackets, ruffled blouses, sequin manager, who noted that the site may be cardigans, skinny accessed from the homepage of a variety jeans, tweed jackets, of Dow Jones’ properties. shift dresses and Calling the site a “second step,” Martz pajama sets. Prices noted that the online catalogue showcases retail from $39.50 to “curated” picks from the newspaper’s $165. Accessories, various staff members — including its including clutch bags, editorial team. Asked how the newspaper chains, berets and intends to remain objective with editors totes, are priced from handpicking items from their favorite $39.50 to $198. brands, Martz said: “There is a definitive Ads will break in A screenshot of WSJ Shops. line between church and state, between the December fashion editorial and content.” Journal bringing in from this project, magazines and in Martz added, “We’re still exploring which already exists at a handful People, and there the line between editorial and content. of consumer magazines, including will be an outdoor We are not accepting money from brands Harper’s Bazaar and Lucky? component in major or retailers.” “We aren’t the type of place to throw cities. Sadler declined Underscoring the importance of money into the wind and hope it sticks,” to reveal the ad “curation” over “brand recognition,” said Martz, who declined to provide budget. The campaign he added that shoppers won’t be aware revenue projections. He did offer that, will also feature an of the product’s label until they click in addition to product sales, business is hour-long chat specifically on the desired ware. garnered from advertisers — and those with Scott. The exact That aside, the larger question has to advertisers, for the most part, are not date hasn’t been set. do with revenue. Just how much is the selling their wares on the site. L’Wren Scott and models in an ad for her Banana Republic line. — LISA LOCKWOOD WWD tuesday, november 5, 2013 11 WWD.COM Bronfman, James Carpenter and Toshiko in the , to design luxury Mori, Ambassador Ron Dermer, Luis Gispert, residential units, common areas and Ninah and Michael Lynne, Linda and Harry amenities for its latest landmark project, Fashion scoops Macklowe, Madge and Martin Miller, Eleanor . The project is scheduled Heyman Propp, Ambassador Ron Prosor, to be completed by the end of 2018. Ingeborg and Ira Leon Rennert, Doug and Located in , Century Spire is HEADING EAST: AmfAR will launch its first where she has served as vice president Mike Starn, Judy and Michael Steinhardt, being designed by Studio Daniel Libeskind. foray into India when the Foundation of global communication since August Liz Swig and Alice Tisch. This year’s “If the architect’s aim is to create for AIDS Research will host amfAR 2012. Prior to The Row, dos Reis Nunes event raised more than remarkable spaces, then it is India, its inaugural fund-raising gala in spent two-and-a-half years as executive $2.2 million for the Israel For more my aim to bring these to life Mumbai on Nov. 17. The centerpiece of director of public relations at Chanel Museum, Jerusalem and scoops, see through my interior-design the Love Gold and American Airlines- Inc., and, before, rising to public the event’s theme, “Time & aesthetic,” said , sponsored evening will be a gold-themed relations director for Louis Vuitton Again,” highlighted precious WWD.com president and chief executive fashion show showcasing wares from top North America. At Coach, she will report treasures from the museum’s officer of his group, adding Indian designers. The bash, which will to senior vice president of global brand collections, which include that he felt the combination of take place at the Taj Mahal Palace, will communications Jason Weisenfeld. unique prehistoric objects and cutting Daniel Libeskind’s vision and his own be hosted by Sharon Stone with amfAR Also at Coach, Sandra Hill, executive edge works of contemporary art and “will result in a truly remarkable place to chairman Kenneth Cole in attendance. vice president of women’s design, is design. — WWD STAFF live, full of elegance and wonder.” Ke$ha is slated to perform. leaving the company to pursue other Some of the Armani/Casa Interior — TAYLOR HARRIS interests. Stuart Vevers recently took over RETAIL PALACE: The Benetton family’s Design Studio’s most recent projects the creative helm of the company as holding, Edizione Property, include the Maçka Residences in ROWLEY DOES BEAUTY: After dipping her Coach’s executive creative director. confirmed Monday it is in advanced Istanbul and The World Towers in feet into the e-commerce world with — MARC KARIMZADEH negotiations with an undisclosed Mumbai. — LUISA ZARGANI an eyewear business she launched retailer to rent Venice’s Palazzo Fontego this summer, Cynthia Rowley is taking on GALA NIGHT: The American Friends of dei Tedeschi. According to market VIVIENNE’S VALUABLES: Vivienne Westwood color cosmetics in a similar fashion. the Israel Museum held its annual gala sources, DFS Group, the luxury and has teamed with five British heritage Beginning today, consumers will be able at New York’s Cipriani 42nd Street duty-free retailer majority-owned by brands for a capsule “collaboration” to preorder debut items from a new on Oct. 28. Among the 450 guests were LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, collection, called Vivienne Westwood makeup range by Rowley, exclusively Charles Bronfman, Stacey and Matthew could be in pole position to secure [Heart], which celebrates British quality via the online shop Birchbox. She will the lease for the 18th-century palazzo, and craftsmanship. roll out additional items, including a which the Benetton family bought from Luggage brand Globe Trotter; spring collection, in a monthly Birchbox the Italian postal service in 2008 for outerwear specialist Gloverall; for subscribers as well as through the about 60 million euros, or $84 million at cashmere and knitwear label Johnstons subscription service’s e-commerce site. average exchange. of Elgin; traditional hatter Lock & Co., “The eyewear site is a very similar After a five-year negotiation with and luxury sock brand Pantherella model to what we are doing now in Venice’s municipality, the Benetton are Westwood’s chosen brands, all of beauty,” said Rowley, who was also family last March got authorization to which are between 75 and 346 years old. Birchbox’s first designer collaborator. restore the 101,507-square-foot palazzo. According to Westwood, these brands “We’re launching only online, creating The restoration project, valued at 18 were chosen because they “epitomize a dialogue with our consumer, so we’re million euros, or about $24 million at Vivienne’s ‘quality over quantity — buy able to react and gather data and really current exchange, has been given to less, choose well, make it last’ ethos.” use social media to have immediate Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas. The collaborative items will be feedback. Rather than just throwing — ALESSANDRA TURRA available from next week in Westwood’s more product in the world, it’s about Conduit Street and King’s Road stores in influencing design in a new way.” PHILIPPINES PROJECT: The Armani Group London, at selected international stores Cynthia Rowley Beauty will launch has inked a partnership with real estate and at viviennewestwood.com. with three products: a 12-hour liquid developer Century Properties, based — JULIA NEEL eyeliner for $18, as well as two limited- edition items, a $24 Eye Shadow Palette and a $15 Gilded Canvas Bag. Rowley said she is open to growing

her range into “a cohesive collection” Gaboury/PatrickMcMullan.coM that could be more widely available over

the next year or two. — BELISA SILVA Sylvain by COMINGS AND GOINGS: Coach Inc. named Iana dos Reis Nunes vice president of Photo public relations, a new role effective The American Friends of the Israel Museum Dec. 2. She will join from The Row, gala raised more than $2.2 million. small space Macy’s Meets With Sharpton Over Racial Profiling Issue lice apprehension cases in and around By LISA LOCKWOOD Macy’s Herald Square store. The meet- ing included a healthy exchange of in- NEW YORK — The Rev. Al Sharpton formation and ideas for continuing to met with Macy’s officials at the Herald foster equal treatment for all customers. Square flagship Monday over racial pro- Macy’s considers its loss prevention poli- filing allegations at the retailer. cies to be among the very best and most The meeting follows one last Tuesday progressive in the retailing industry, and that Sharpton had with Barneys New the company expressed its intention to Big York officials at the Harlem headquar- continue to hold itself to a very high stan- ters of National Action Network, a civil dard in its relationships with customers rights organization he founded. and law enforcement authorities toward As reported, Robert Brown, an actor an objective of providing the best possible who stars in the HBO series “Treme,” shopping experience. The company reit- said he was racially profiled at Macy’s erated its deep commitment to diversity Business Herald Square on June 8. He alleged and inclusion, and that it does not toler- he was stopped by at least three plain- ate discrimination of any kind.” clothes police officers, accused of using After the meeting, Sharpton told the a fraudulent credit card and was de- Associated Press that he had a “brutally WWD Marketplace is the premier destination tained at the store. He has filed a lawsuit honest” meeting with Macy’s and that against Macy’s and the New York Police Macy’s needs to quickly make clear how Department. Macy’s has said that pre- it can guarantee racial profiling won’t for the industry’s classified and career listings. liminary findings of its own investigation happen because “we are not going to go showed no involvement of store person- through the holidays and have people nel in Brown’s detention, which was char- shop where they are going to be profiled.” acterized as an NYPD action. NAN had no further comment, and of- The retailer said Monday, “Macy’s ex- ficials at the National Urban League 800.423.3314 ecutives, led by chairman, president and couldn’t be reached at press time. chief executive officer Terry Lundgren, New York Attorney General Eric T. met this afternoon with a group of com- Schneiderman, who is investigating racial wwd.com/marketplace munity leaders from the National Action profiling at both Macy’s and Barneys, has Network, National Urban League and begun receiving documents from both retail- other organizations to discuss recent po- ers and is actively interviewing witnesses.

w05a011a;9.indd 11 11/4/13 7:32 PM 11042013193339 12 WWD TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2013 WWD.COM Green and Topshop Team Tour Nordstrom

on Saturday, when he was at a By RACHEL BROWN Topshop at Los Angeles shop- ping center The Grove for an LOS ANGELES — A little more early holiday party that featured than a year since Topshop en- a performance by Natalia Kills tered Nordstrom, executives and was attended by Mandy from both retailers put in some Moore, Erin Wasson and Ashley serious face time last week dur- Madekwe, Green said, “We ing a tour of Topshop locations haven’t quite decided how we at Nordstrom to take stock of are going to do it. Yesterday, we their partnership and improve left on the basis of they were joint efforts going forward as going to think about how many Topshop’s presence within the stores, and do we do it on the department store expands. existing mat or separate? We Sir Philip Green, chief ex- are not quite finalized with the ecutive officer of Topshop par- plan, but the answer is yes, it is ent Arcadia Group, and his team going to be in Nordstrom.” visited around 25 Nordstrom Elaborating further on the stores with Topshop depart- rollout of the Kate Moss collec- ments, and Pete Nordstrom, tion, Green revealed the launch president of merchandising for would be in all of Topshop’s 39 Nordstrom Inc., met up with countries simultaneously. “I the traveling Topshop crew on want to get everything delivered, Friday at Nordstrom stores in all built and ready to go on the the Orange County, Calif., shop- same day. I just think there will

ping centers Irvine Spectrum LIPP be more impact. This time, it is Center, South Coast Plaza and Sir Philip Green at the right way to do it,” he said. Fashion Island. ZACH “There’s going to be one drop.

BY the Topman unit at Nordstrom explained those The Grove. No replenishment. We could sell

stores have Topshop setups PHOTO it in two days or a week.” from different phases of the The kind of buzz that British retailer’s short history selling or what could be selling Topshop intends to gener- with Nordstrom that began better, and he uses those as liv- ate with the launch of the with 14 doors in September ing examples.” Kate Moss collection is what 2012 and has spread to a total In one such example, Green Nordstrom is trying to capture of 41 Topshop and 18 Topman chatted with a Nordstrom em- at its stores with the brand. locations, including Nordstrom ployee in Irvine Spectrum at the “We wanted to do a better job stores that have only Topman shoe section about Topshop’s of being more relevant to young shops and no Topshop units. products. “Everyone was there: women. This brand has a lot of “It is necessary for us to Pete and his team. The girl resonance and credibility with spend this kind of time togeth- came over and I said, ‘How can I young fashionable women, so er,” said Nordstrom. “It can feel help?’ She said, ‘We want more.’ that was a great opportunity tedious at times, but they are in I said, ‘We like girls like you.’ In for us to bring this product in London and we are in Seattle, 10 minutes, I named her Miss and attract new customers. It and this is not a model that has More,” recounted Green. “We has worked for us that way. It really ever been done. This is are in the early days, and we are has made our existing custom- a unique partnership. It is not not delivering enough inventory. ers happy and has brought in like buying a line from a vendor. Where we have quite a tight col- a lot of new customers,” said It is much more of a collabora- lection, it is quite easy to see Nordstrom, adding, “The fact tive process. We were basically that we could do a lot more busi- that we are continuing to grow coming together saying, ‘We are ness. It is learning about alloca- Topshop units can together suggests that we are doing well, but if we did these tion, how do we react quicker, be found in 41 encouraged by the results that things better, how much better how do we get the data.” Nordstrom doors. we already have.” can the business be?’” Part of the solution to re- For Topshop, Nordstrom pro- He said Green was keen to acting quicker and leverag- vides exposure to consumers in check out the Topshop brand- ing Nordstrom sales data at We need to be live.” stores together in the spring, the U.S. market, where it aims ing, which has been elevated Topshop will be building an Those people will be cru- and really what we are looking to generate $1 billion in sales with enhanced imagery, and get organization at the U.K. chain cial as Topshop takes its next at is twice a year adding new in the not-too-distant future. a sense of how the merchandise to specifically manage the steps at Nordstrom. The U.S. stores. It should be in the ma- Green, who noted Topshop is is performing. “He cares first Nordstrom business. “Now that retailer hasn’t disclosed the jority of our stores. There is no currently in negotiations for and foremost about his brand we’ve scaled up, it’s going to exact number of doors Topshop doubt about that.” four or five stores to enlarge its and the presentation of his have a dedicated owner on our will increase to in upcoming Also expected in the spring U.S. fleet of four freestanding brand in our stores. That’s part side. That has to be somebody’s seasons, but it is considering are pop-up shops to house locations, proclaimed Topshop of it, the visual merchandising job,” said Green. “Some people up to 10 for spring and another the Kate Moss collection that has “a shot” at reaching that part,” said Nordstrom. “But he have to come in to work at 4 spate of doors for late fall. Pete Topshop is launching in April. revenue target “if we find the is a real merchant. He wants in the afternoon and work the Nordstrom said the department Green told WWD last month right locations. We are not run- to know what’s selling well. He night shift. I want to have some store is taking “reasonable bites that he’d like 60 to 70 pop-ups ning at 100 miles an hour. We always engages with the depart- people open when they’re open, at a time so that we can execute at Nordstrom for the collec- want to be careful and take a ment manager to know what is so we’re not playing catch-up. better. We are going to add more tion. Asked about that amount little bit of time.”

Didier Dubot Teams With Formichetti Fendi Links With Lasry for Eyewear

“The Nicola Formichetti x Didier MILAN — A Fendi eyewear capsule standing eyewear savoir faire and By LUISA ZARGANI Dubot capsule collection is inspired by collection designed by Thierry Lasry innovative product expertise to our cultural contrasts between punk and will bow for spring 2015. This is the trendsetting partnership with Fendi,” MILAN — Didier Dubot Joaillerie will prettiness, Western and Eastern iconog- first such venture for Fendi and the said Luisa Delgado, ceo of the Italian present its signature collection and raphy, and the 2013 Year of the Snake first time Lasry will collaborate with eyewear producer, describing this as a capsule line in collaboration with in the Chinese calendar,” said the com- a luxury brand. “an exceptional opportunity to further Nicola Formichetti at New York’s The pany. Gold snakes are entwined around Pietro Beccari, chairman and chief enrich the extremely precious Fendi Standard today. poppies, and Formichetti’s Nico Panda executive officer of Fendi, defined eyewear collection.” The Didier Dubot line of fine jewelry avatar charm is juxtaposed with inter- Lasry as “one of the most creative and Lasry, the son of an optician and was launched in March 2013 with ac- locking silver safety pins, bejeweled coolest eyewear designers of the mo- a designer, launched his namesake tress Lea Seydoux fronting its advertis- poppies, a lock and key, and pearl tear- ment.” He said the -based luxury line of sunglasses in 2006, and they ing campaign. drops, adding a whimsical, punk tone to brand shares with Lasry “common val- are entirely handmade in . The collection draws inspiration from the the line. ues, such as savoir faire, innovation, His designs are marked by a futuris- poppy flower and Parisian women. Bracelets Prices for the capsule collection tradition and experimentation, which tic twist on retro shapes, often with and rings are shaped like sculpted corsets in range from $1,800 for just silver and gold are at the core of Fendi’s DNA. We are an Eighties vibe and a rock ’n’ roll pink gold and silver, and the brand’s initials pieces, going up to $2,200 for pieces with sure this partnership will bring further touch. The collections are available at embellish the necklaces. Prices for the sig- pearls or diamonds. energy to our brand.” stores ranging from Colette, Bergdorf nature line range from $400 to $700 depend- The capsule line is available at The capsule will be produced by Goodman and Barneys New York to ing on the diamonds, but there are also more L.H.P. in Tokyo and, in New York at Safilo, Fendi’s eyewear licensee. Lane Crawford, Dover Street Market, expensive items, such as a diamond-encrust- Michele Varian and Otte, together with “At Safilo, we feel truly inspired to Liberty, Boon the Shop and 10 Corso ed bracelet that retails at $3,500. the signature collection. contribute the very best of our long- Como in Seoul. — L.Z.