KINDLY KORS GIVES $5 MILLION TOKYO’S TURN TO GOD’S LOVE THE FIRST FEW DAYS OF JAPAN FASHION WE DELIVER. WEEK GO FROM TEDDY BEARS TO FUTURISM. PAGE 10 PAGE 6

NEIMAN’S TIE-UP KEY Target Unveils Slew Of Holiday Promotions

By SHARON EDELSON

NEW YORK — Target believes American consumers are feeling more upbeat — and is planning an aggressive push for the holidays to make sure they stay that way. “If you look at consumer sentiment, it’s ticked up,” Gregg Steinhafel, Target Corp.’s chairman and WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER17, 2012 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 chief executive offi cer, told WWD at its second annual WWD Media Day here. “Postelection, there will be less un- certainty. We work on a bipartisan basis and hope a [fi scal] compromise will be reached. “I don’t see the guest racing ahead,” he added, speaking of Target’s customers. “The guest gets value. Our apparel business has been very healthy all year. We’re seeing signs and glimmers of hope.” Steinhafel said he is somewhat optimistic about the holiday season because Target has a string of in- centives planned and distinctive merchandise — from a special holiday gift assortment of accessories, nail polish and clutches in distinctive colors and packag- ing to the Target and Neiman Marcus holiday collec- tion, which was kept under wraps in the next room of the presentation space until it was time for the big reveal, when a curtain parted and the dramatically lit products could be seen surrounding a larger-than- life-size red gift box. Prior to opening the curtain, Steinhafel and

MERCER Karen Katz, president and ceo of the Neiman Marcus Group, shared the podium. “Strange bedfellows, huh?” Katz said under her breath. Then, she added, “Target is without peer in their ability to source and manufacture. This will resonate with those who shop EMILY ASSISTANT: at Target or Neiman Marcus or both. It’s the perfect match in every way.” The groundbreaking partnership called for an un- expected advertising and marketing campaign, said Jeff Jones, executive vice president and chief mar- keting offi cer of Target, and Wanda Gierhart, senior FASHION DECERVANTES; vice president and chief marketing offi cer of NMG, offering a fi rst look at the collection’s campaign shot SEE PAGE 8 ADRIANA ASSISTANT: YSL, Louboutin Truce

By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

NEW YORK — Fashion’s battle over red has ended with a white flag. After a highly publicized legal tug of war that lasted a year and a half, Yves Saint Laurent SA said Tuesday that it will drop its lawsuit against Christian

FOR NARS COSMETICS; PHOTO MISUZU MIYAKE Louboutin SA. Claiming it won a “conclusive” victory, YSL said All Business it is ready to “close the book” on what had become

MAKEUP BY Suits made a major statement on the New York runways this one of the most widely scrutinized legal cases in the season, from traditional blazer-trouser combos to unexpected fashion world. Louboutin sued YSL in April 2011, claiming the pairings, like Rachel Comey’s silk and linen cargo jacket and dress, fashion house infringed on the footwear brand’s shown here with Swarovski sunglasses, Leatherock belt, Tory Burch trademark when it sold red pumps with red soles. Presiding New York federal court judge Victor iPad case and Stuart Weitzman pumps. For more, see pages 4 and 5. Marrero disagreed with Louboutin, and allowed YSL GROUP FOR SACHA JUAN; to continue to sell the monochrome shoes. The judge went a step further by questioning the validity of Louboutin’s trademark. THE WALL With its mark in jeopardy, the French shoemaker appealed the decision, and in January, Louboutin

GOULD AT lawyer Harley Lewin argued his client’s case before a packed courtroom, which included industry fi gures OWEN such as Council of Fashion Designers of America president Diane von Furstenberg, CFDA chief ex- ecutive offi cer Steven Kolb and an apprehensive Christian Louboutin. Nearly a year of deliberating ensued and came to a head last month when the Court of Appeals ruled that YSL had the right to make and sell the mono- chromatic shoes. In doing so, the court whittled PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY HAIR MODEL: FRANCES/MUSE; BY SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2012

Gap Reorganizes Executive Ranks THE BRIEFING BOX ers, delivering consistently great ness unit at Gap but also of the By ARNOLD J. KARR product around the world.” online division. Toby Lenk, who’d IN TODAY’S WWD Jack Calhoun, the president of served as president of online, will GAP INC.’S executive structure Banana Republic North America, leave the company in February has gone global. will become global president of “to return to his entrepreneurial Reflecting worldwide expan- the brand and expand his pur- roots,” Gap said, after putting the Dancers at the American Apparel event in Tokyo. sion that’s seen it move into 40 view to all channels and regions, company on track to surpass its countries, up from eight in 2006, as will Julie Rosen in her capac- 2014 goal of $2 billion in online the San Francisco-based apparel ity as the brand’s top merchant. sales. In fiscal 2011, Gap’s direct- specialty retail giant has reorga- In a preview of the organi- to-consumer sales totaled $1.56 nized its executive ranks along zational structure put in place billion, 11 percent of the total rev- brand lines, integrating interna- Tuesday, Gap in May named enue figure of $14.55 billion. They tional, online, outlet and franchise Stefan Larsson the first global accounted for $1.3 billion in 2011, operations into four silos — Gap, president for Old Navy, a post he 9 percent of the company total of Old Navy, Banana Republic and a assumed this month. Larsson’s $14.66 billion. new Innovation, Digital Strategy appointment coincided with A Gap spokeswoman noted and New Brands division. The Gap’s plans to begin a rollout that Peck “has been successful in new unit is to be headed as presi- of Old Navy into international every role he’s had at Gap, lead- dent by Art Peck, current presi- markets starting this summer in ing our outlet division and being dent of Gap North America, and Japan. Jill Stanton, who’s served instrumental in the Athleta ac- will include Gap’s newest, small- quisition [in 2008]. The thinking GIANNONI GIOVANNI est brands, Athleta and Piperlime. here is that the Innovation unit Responsibility for the Gap will act as an incubator for new PHOTO BY brand will be in the hands of brands and new technology. He’ll Steve Sunnucks, who joined Gap basically be quarterbacking and Target believes American consumers are feeling more in 2005 after working as chief ex- sharing intelligence and innova- upbeat — and is planning an aggressive push for the ecutive officer of New Look and tion for the entire organization.” holidays to make sure they stay that way. PAGE 1 most recently served as presi- Peck was president of Gap’s dent of the international unit. As outlet division when he was Yves Saint Laurent SA said Tuesday it will drop its red sole global president of Gap brand, tapped by Murphy in February trademark lawsuit against Christian Louboutin SA. PAGE 1 he will be based in New York 2011 to succeed the ousted Marka and report to Glenn Murphy, Hansen as president of Gap said Tuesday it acquired Scottish cashmere Gap chairman and ceo. Mark North America. North American specialist Barrie Knitwear, maker of the French fashion Breitbard, named president of Gap sales continued their down- house’s iconic two-tone cardigans. PAGE 3 Gap North America, will report ward trajectory last year, falling to Sunnucks and work from San 6.1 percent to $3.56 billion and Tumi Holdings Inc.’s shares fell 3.3 percent after investors Francisco. Breitbard had been Steve down 4 percent on a same-store began digesting information that some shareholders plan to senior product leader for Gap Sunnucks basis. However, like Gap’s other hold a secondary offering. PAGE 3 brand in the U.S. and Canada. North American businesses, With international duties in- they’ve been up so far in 2012, Weibo is slowly turning into a cesspool of fake fans, tegrated into the brand organiza- as a creative adviser to the culminating in a 13 percent in- organized fan attacks by competing brands, and huge tions, the international unit will brand, will join full-time as exec- crease in July. Year-to-date same- price tags on so-called Key Opinion Leaders. PAGE 3 effectively cease to exist. utive vice president responsible store sales are in fact up 6 per- The transition to these new for global product design and de- cent at all three North American For its 125th anniversary, Pratt Institute had the Empire roles begins Nov. 5, Gap said, velopment, reporting to Larsson. operations while down 4 percent State Building illuminated in gold and then welcomed guests and will be fully implemented at Nancy Green, who has been in the international unit. to its annual gala at the Waldorf-Astoria. PAGE 6 the start of the 2013 fiscal year. executive vice president and Randal Konik, analyst at It also comes as Gap goes into chief creative officer of Old Navy, Jefferies & Co., said the recon- A healthy turnout of buyers is expected at the upcoming the homestretch of 2012 sport- will assume a new role provid- figuration “should help Gap Inc. fashion market at the Dallas Market Center, which features ing greatly improved same-store ing product assortment and to expand its international busi- a special show of resources from Italy. PAGE 7 sales in recent months and com- merchandise guidance to a new ness in a way that best suits each pletes a third quarter in which it team based in Shanghai that will concept. We also like the creation More than 600 guests piled in Monday night at the God’s is expected to generate signifi- focus on what Gap termed “the of the new Innovation, Digital Love We Deliver annual Golden Heart Awards in New York cantly improved earnings. significant long-term opportu- Strategy and New Brands divi- City, including honoree Michael Kors. PAGE 9 “Our strong performance gives nity in China for its brands.” The sion which should help…main- us the confidence to make this Shanghai team will be headed tain its best-in-class e-commerce French financial daily Les Echos, which already has a move to bring each brand togeth- by Redmond Yeung, who reports division.…We view ceo Glenn glossy monthly magazine, will also publish its first 12- to er with the goal of gaining mar- to Murphy, and Jeff Kirwan. The Murphy’s oversight of China posi- 16-page weekend supplement starting Nov. 16. PAGE 9 ket share around the world and Gap brand has encountered tively as it indicates the company enhancing shareholder value,” struggles as it’s entered China is taking the large market oppor- Nothing pulls in the star power like the promise of a Murphy said. “The global teams but remains on track to have 45 tunity in China very seriously.” magazine cover, or in the case of Monday night’s Elle’s will move even faster in antici- units there by the end of the year. Gap shares Tuesday were up 68 Women in Hollywood event, nine covers. PAGE 10 pating and responding to the The moves spell the end of cents, or 1.9 percent, to $36.96 in ever-evolving needs of custom- not only international as a busi- New York Stock Exchange trading. Hudson Bay Co. filed paperwork Tuesday to go public on the Toronto Stock Exchange, while a new owner may be LVMH Looks to Allay Slowdown Fears on the horizon for Piazza Sempione. PAGE 11 ON WWD.COM cent in the third quarter, versus 10 percent in the By MILES SOCHA second quarter and 14 percent in the first three FASHION: American Apparel added a bit of international months of the year. flavor to Japan Fashion Week by hosting a party that PARIS — After reporting a deceleration in its third- On Tuesday, LVMH provided additional data that attracted hundreds. For more photos, see WWD.com/ quarter sales versus the first half, LVMH Moët underscored contrasting business in various regions. fashion-news. Hennessy took pains to allay fears of In the first nine months, revenues in local cur- a major slowdown at Louis Vuitton, its cash cow. rencies advanced 7 percent in Japan and Europe, “Our third-quarter figures reflected a tougher en- 11 percent in Asia and 12 percent in the U.S., ex- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. vironment and I will not deny it,” Jean- cluding Hawaii. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. Jacques Guiony, LVMH’s chief financial Business in Asia was varied, with COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. officer, told a conference call on Tuesday. sales of wines and spirits advancing 24 VOLUME 204, NO. 81. WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues He blamed record levels of Chinese and percent versus only 5 percent for fash- in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Japanese tourism in the year-ago quarter ion and leather goods. Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: 8% S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, for creating onerous comps. Regarding the latter division, Guiony Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, “We are relatively confident for the blamed modest organic growth of 5 per- and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax AMOUNT BY WHICH Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver near future,” he stressed. “One shouldn’t LOUIS VUITTON cent in the third quarter to weakness on Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: see the glass half empty, in my view.” RAISED ITS PRICES the wholesale side of the business, some Please He noted that Vuitton raised prices in of it deliberate as brands including write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. IN EUROPE. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or Europe by 8 percent on Oct. 1, primarily to Bulgari, Celine, Chaumet, Tag Heuer inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine address a price discrepancy that has been and pursue a more selective dis- is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. driving Asians to make purchases on the Continent. tribution policy. He stressed there was “no major You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt Guiony’s assurances helped shares in LVMH slowdown” at Vuitton in the third quarter, with of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request close up 3.6 percent to close at 128.25 euros, or European growth slightly higher than the second- for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at $174.38 at current exchange, on the Paris Bourse. quarter and Asia slightly lower due to tourist flows. www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that Citing a “mixed business environment,” LVMH Gains of 14 percent in Asia for perfumes and we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at on Monday said sales advanced 14.8 percent in the cosmetics point to the fact that “the appetite for P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED third quarter to 6.9 billion euros, or $8.63 billion, luxury goods is there,” he added. ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER versus 6.01 billion euros, or $8.51 billion, in the Guiony declined to give any forecast for the cru- UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR year-ago period, as reported. cial holiday sales period, but noted, “The compara- DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A In organic terms, revenue growth stood at 6 per- tive basis will be quite tough in Q4 as well.” SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2012 3 WWD.COM ChinaFile Tumi Plans Secondary Offering A Marketing Cesspool nancial officer Michael Mardy and Doughty Hanson, By VICKI M. YOUNG a fund that owned the company before its April ini- ARE YOU VERY excited about I thought, what a mess, and I tial public offering and which still owns a majority using social media to market really could not care less. In NEW YORK — Shares of Tumi Holdings Inc. fell 3.3 stake in Tumi. your products? Are you very the end I did not go to see ei- percent after investors began digesting informa- When the upscale luggage and accessories keen to start a corporate Weibo ther film. However, it does tell tion from a regulatory filing that some sharehold- firm went public, shares climbed 61.7 percent account and just weibo away to me that Weibo is less about ers plan to hold a secondary offering. to $29.10 in intraday trading before closing at marketing heaven? marketing and more about According to a registration $26.50, still a 47.2 percent jump from Don’t go there. Don’t even mud-slinging. statement, or Form S-1, filed with the opening price of $18 a share. The think about going there. The 3. Opinions for Sale: I have the Securities and Exchange public offering raised $338 million. much-touted new media mar- no proof whatsoever, but I Commission Tuesday, slightly more Shares of Tumi fell to as low keting platform is think KOLs are than 11.6 million shares are being as $21.65 in Tuesday’s trading ses- slowly turning into a ChinaFile bought and sold sold at a proposed offering price sion before climbing back to close cesspool of fake fans, all the time. Three of $22.87, with a maximum aggre- at $22.43. organized fan attacks weeks ago, I got an- gate price range of $265.6 million. It’s not unusual for stockholders by competing brands, other eyes-only mes- The 11.6 million shares include to sell additional shares once the and huge price tags sage asking me, very 10.1 million shares of common lock-up period expires following a on so-called KOLs politely, to forward stock from the selling stockhold- CHRIS BENJAMIN successful IPO. (bloggers and other (retweet) a message ers plus an option for the under- Michael Kors Holdings Ltd. went digital pundits for BY HUANG HUNG by various Chinese writers to purchase an additional PHOTO BY public in December and already hire, known as “key pop stars for char- 1.5 million shares. has had two secondary offerings as opinion leaders”). ity. I didn’t do it. Then I got a The selling stockholders will re- original stockholders have elected There are so many dirty second message, followed by ceive the proceeds from the stock to sell more shares. The first sec- tricks that it is not worth men- a third and a fourth message. sale, not the company. Among the ondary offering was in March, and tioning all of them. I will just Finally, the sender pleaded selling shareholders are chief execu- the second one was last month. tell you the most common ones that I must forward the mes- tive officer Jerome Griffith, chief fi- Luggage from Tumi. employed by local companies sage by the end of the day; oth- and celebrities alike. erwise the sender’s company 1. Pour Dirty Water (on a would be in big trouble with competitor): This means you the client. I still ignored it. The Survey Sees Social Media Stragglers companies said they were in- pay a local company to send next day, my assistant got a call creasing their budgets in social insanely rude and obnoxious from a man claiming to be the should be deploying social media and digital; 35.7 percent comments on product post- boss of a social media market- By LISA LOCKWOOD media in a strategic way and not said it would remain the same, ings by your competitors. The ing company offering 30,000 as an after-thought or an add- and 7.7 percent said they were claims are wild, so if they don’t renminbi for me to forward a NEARLY A QUARTER of global on,” said Christine Boehlke, decreasing their budget. alarm consumers, they’ll defi- message. He told my assistant companies have yet to embrace ceo of Grayling North America The survey also found that nitely give your competitor’s the offer is only valid for 24 social media. Public Relations. “Our results companies located in Western digital marketing manager hours. It took me a nanosec- According to the latest demonstrate there are un- Europe are most likely to have a enough of a runaround. ond to recognize it’s the same Grayling Pulse survey of in-house tapped opportunities for many digital strategy (78 percent), com- 2. Fake Posting: I was caught song, written by a very wealthy communications professionals companies to more effectively pared with 61 percent in Central between two warring actresses Chinese man, and backed by a worldwide, 22 percent of commu- communicate with their audi- Eastern Europe and Eurasia. two weeks ago. A fan sent me popular local beverage. nications and marketing heads ences and stakeholders.” Victor Benady, global head of an eyes-only message with a I don’t mean to sound snob- report their companies have no The Pulse survey indicated social media for Grayling, said, photo of a posting by a film bish and full of myself, but social media strategy. Of those that the two most common ob- “The chasm between the ‘haves’ critic claiming I trashed a re- honestly, the speed of which that do, only 39 percent said it is jectives for a company’s digital and ‘have-nots’ has grown in- cent film by a leading actress. Weibo became commercial- integrated with a broader com- strategy are “improved reputa- creasingly wider in 2012. It seems Lets call her A. This was totally ized is very scary. It was really munications strategy. tion” (21.4 percent) and “aware- remarkable that 22 percent of the untrue and I immediately post- a good thing; I enjoyed reading Globally, only 23 percent of ness” (22.1 percent). “Increase in companies we surveyed have no ed a statement. Five minutes all the comments, there are a chief executive officers person- sales” was reported as a driver social media strategy whatsoever later, the agent for the other lot of smart people out there. ally participate in corporate by 11 percent, and “customer ser- whilst at the opposite end of the actress, let’s call her B, called But lately, it’s really worri- social media via a blog, Twitter vice” by 10 percent. scale, 71 percent have a strategy me and said the eyes-only mes- some as I realize it’s become or other platform, and 44 per- As far as business sectors, and are getting under the skin of sage was a ploy to generate at- a garbage dump, a zero-sum cent of ceo’s have no involve- technology, media and telecom- the reputational challenges of so- tention for A’ s film by getting game played up by marketers ment in their company’s social munications led the way in social cial media. What does that mean me to post something about it. — a cesspool where compa- media presence, according to media with 83 percent having a for the ‘have-nots’? Only time Of course, A’ s agent immediate- nies pay for vicious attacks on Grayling’s research with 1,100 digital strategy, compared with will tell if their lack of digital ly denied such allegations and their competitors. leading communications and 68 percent in the consumer and voice will negatively impact on said it’s because B is jealous It’s really a shame how a marketing directors. retail sector, according to the their business but why are they that A’s film is doing way better good thing can quickly turn bad “Like with any communi- quarterly survey. even waiting to find out? It seems at the box office. Oh my God! in China. So watch out. cations channel, companies Globally, 43.5 percent of like a huge risk to take.” Chanel Acquires Barrie Knitwear Borders region, a heartland of ers, the Hong Kong-based S.C. By MILES SOCHA cashmere and merino wool manu- Fang & Sons Co. Ltd. GIANNONI GIOVANNI facturing since the late 18th cen- Also in the Scottish vein,

PARIS — Adding to its arse- tury, Barrie currently employs Pavlovsky confirmed that Chanel PHOTO BY nal of specialty manufacturers, 176 people. Its portfolio of brands and its couturier, , Chanel said Tuesday it acquired includes Barrie, Glenmac, John would stage a fashion show in Scottish cashmere specialist Laing and Kinross, and it manu- Edinburgh on Dec. 4, unveiling its Barrie Knitwear, maker of the factures for other high-end brands latest métiers d’art collection, a French fashion house’s iconic such as Hermès. pre-fall range embellished by the two-tone cardigans. It has been a key supplier to couture ateliers that Chanel owns. Chanel purchased the busi- Chanel for more than 25 years, The company added to its com- ness and assets from Dawson and Pavlovsky noted that Barrie’s plement of ateliers last month International Trading Ltd., which particular expertise can be found and acquired French glove maker was placed under administration nowhere else in the world. Chanel Causse. That acquisition brought on Aug. 15. Financial terms were also has knitwear suppliers in Italy. to nine the number of specialty not disclosed. Jim Carrie is to continue as ateliers in its Paraffection af- “Our objective is to keep managing director of Barrie, and filiate. (The others are embroi- this know-how alive,” Bruno Clive Brown as sales director. dery firm Montex, the embroi- Pavlovsky, president of Chanel Dawson had been struggling der Maison Lesage, gold and fashion, told WWD. with a pension debt of 129 million silversmith Goosens, shoemaker He noted that knitwear repre- pounds, or $208 million at current Massaro, hatmaker A. Michel, sents about 30 percent of Chanel’s exchange, and when the U.K.’s feather house Lemarié, button ready-to-wear business in unit pensions regulator and its Pension specialist Desrues and flower terms, and characterized it as an Protection Fund refused to help, house Guillet.) important area of development for the company collapsed. Asked if Chanel was stepping the company. Dawson, once one of the up its acquisitions, Pavlovsky re- “It’s a way to enter the brand,” world’s largest manufacturers of plied: “It’s a question of opportu- Pavlovsky said, explaining that cashmere fiber and knitwear, is nity. We want to protect and de- sweaters are roughly half the the former owner of Pringle of velop key know-how, not only for A Chanel sweater made by price of a woven Chanel jacket, Scotland, which it purchased in today, but for the next 20 years.” A Chanel sweater and skirt Barrie for the pre-fall 2012 and “very fashionable.” 1967 and held until 2000 when it — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM made by Barrie for the resort collection. Based in Hawick in the Scottish sold the brand to its current own- SAMANTHA CONTI, 2013 collection. 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2012

Working Class GONE ARE THE DAYS OF STODGY WORKWEAR. TODAY’S POWER SUITS ARE BEING REINTERPRETED WITH THOROUGHLY MODERN COMBOS THAT ARE ALL WOMAN. MERCER EMILY ASSISTANT: FASHION ADRIANA DECERVANTES; COSMETICS;NARS FOR ASSISTANT: PHOTO MIYAKE MISUZU BY MAKEUP JUAN; SACHA FOR GROUP WALL THE

AT GOULD OWEN Photos by George Chinsee Styled by Kim Friday

Line & Dot’s elongated polyester jacket with Uke’s viscose and cotton top and shorts. Streets Ahead belt; Isa Tapia sandals. BY HAIR FRANCES/MUSE; MODEL: WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2012 5 WWD.COM

DKNY’s cotton and nylon vest and perforated leather skirt with Erin Barr’s beaded silk top. Alexis Bittar bangle; Tor y Burch Rodebjer’s wool pantsuit and Kain’s iPad case; DKNY shoes. silk tank. Dita glasses; Vanessa Lianne earrings; Bally Belts Studio belt.

Steven Alan’s cotton linen blazer and Odylyne’s rayon tunic and dress. DKNY bag.

L’Autre Chose’s jute, cotton and linen coat and shorts with Ainsley’s silk blouse. Dita glasses; Streets Ahead belt; MCM briefcase; Isa Tapia sandals. 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2012 FOR MORE FROM JAPAN FASHION WEEK, SEE WWD.com/ TOKYO COLLECTIONS runway. JOHN CALABRESE Spring 2013 PHOTOS BY

Facestasm Phenomenon Shiroma Matohu Eddie Shieh, Christiane Seidel and Mark Tallman. Pratt Celebrates 125th Anniversary er, Charles Pratt. Vice ▲ Russell By ROSEMARY chair Mike Pratt re- Simmons FEITELBERG minded the crowd how Charles Pratt never got past NEW YORK — For its 125th the 10th grade but he champi- anniversary, Pratt Institute oned education nonetheless. arranged to have the Empire Russell Simmons said, State Building illuminated in “Pratt means so much to the gold — a first for the iconic world, not just to New York. Ne-net Jun WC Tiit landmark — and then wel- The arts in general are es- Okamoto comed guests Monday night to sential to the continuation of its annual gala at the Waldorf- society. I don’t think people Astoria. The address was fit- understand how important it ting for the Brooklyn-based is for us to have imagination, school, since Pratt alumni creativity, art and excellence. Lloyd Morgan helped design Not enough people appreciate the historic building more that, but Pratt does.” than 80 years ago. Alluding to the current po- Pratt president Thomas litical tug-of-war about federal Schutte and chair Bruce Gitlin funding for the arts, Taymor were joined by 500 guests in- made a point of saying, “Some cluding Juan Montoya, Karim people feel the arts and cul- Rashid, Pamela Auchincloss, ture are expendable. I am Stefan Sagmeister, Kurt all for any institution that Gutenbrunner, “Boardwalk supports the arts.” Empire” actress Christiane Well aware that Mitt Seidel, Sylvia Plachy, Agnes Romney supporters were Gund and Marjorie Kuhn. also gathered at the Pratt being Pratt, the Waldorf, Taymor told MIYAZAKI YUKIE AND KOSKI GIANNONI, ONNIE GIOVANNI school’s communica- guests that while tions team designed the presiden- the table lamps, tial candidate BY PHOTOS chocolate wrappers threatened to JAPAN FASHION WEEK, WHICH BEGAN OVER THE WEEKEND AND RUNS THROUGH and 125 other prod- cut off Big Bird ucts solely for the financially, a OCT. 18, IS BECOMING AN INCREASINGLY IMPORTANT EVENT ON THE FASHION gala. Gigantic gold Pratt alum created CALENDAR. FOR SPRING, DESIGNERS ARE OFFERING AN ECLECTIC MIX — FROM TUTUS balloons and metal- the yellow-feathered lic centerpieces an- character. “Without AND TEDDY BEARS TO DELICATE SHIRTDRESSES AND FUTURISTIC FABRICS. chored the Renny & the beauty of the arts, Reed-decorated ball- we don’t have a coun- Facestasm: Hiromichi Ochiai technique to achieve a texture and voluminous separates in room, where dinner con- tr y. We don’t have a produced a futuristic reminiscent of crocodile skin. featherweight fabrics like cotton versation covered such culture. We’re not Facestasm collection that gauze and matte jersey. There design-minded topics as human,” she said. played with layering and Matohu: Matohu designers were several variations on the history of the Lazy Being honored made contrasting textures — a nod Hiroyuki Horihata and Makiko trenchcoats, including cropped Susan and a crime spree Wiley feel a little less to his background in textiles. Sekiguchi provided innovative lengths, oversize collars and for Rashid-designed man- than human. “I have to say, The clothes, shown on models takes on kimonos and ballooned sleeves. The men’s hole covers. (Rashid, who off the cuff, this is terrify- sporting masses of oversize traditional Japanese apparel. tailored wear seemed a bit static designed the Bobble water ing. Being up here in front curls and shimmery lips, Inspired by a trip to a Kyoto in comparison. bottle for guests’ goodie of all these people makes included patchwork dresses antique fair and their discovery bags, is at work on new me nauseous.” and skirts, slim pants with of an old iron tool repurposed WC: Celebrity model Chinatsu condo projects in six cit- Once the Brooklyn- slits in the knees and ruffled as wall art, they worked Wakatsuki launched WC in 2009, ies and boutique hotels in based artist got his foot- ▲ Julie tartan bustles. with unusual fabrics like a a line that embodies Japanese Tel Aviv and Hamburg.) Taymor ing, he spoke of how, rubberized material adept for women’s obsession with all that The gathering raised growing up in South Phenomenon: Designed by a tablecloth and a loose knit is cute — the label’s mascot is a more than $1 million Central Los Angeles, his Takeshi Osumi, Phenomenon resembling a fishing net. teddy bear wearing overalls, for for student scholarships. mother got him into art school is one of the hottest men’s starters. The heaps of ruffled Photography student Kevin to get him away from the labels coming out of Tokyo at Ne-net: Ne-net’s Kazuaki tutus, a very generous use of Truong, a beneficiary of pre- threat of violence. the moment. This collection Takashima created a fantasy denim and some skin-baring vious scholarships, won over “In many ways, I did this art delivered elements of sporty world in the style of “Where the looks gave a Lolita-meets- the crowd with how he was thing not to have adulation or streetwear in the form of Wild Things Are.” Takashima farmer’s-daughter vibe. born into a refugee camp in to gain anything,” he said. “I baseball jackets, crest motifs showed his signature quirky Malaysia but is thriving on the studied cooking so that I would and mesh, all mixed in with a style via patchwork denim, Tiit: Pronounced “Tit-o” in Brooklyn campus. have a steady job. But it was range of punchy prints. distinctive knits and plaid Japanese, this brand name derives Reflective of the diverse to be curious about the world flannel pieces, with models from the initials of designer Sho range of talent, the black- I am surrounded by and to be Shiroma: Shiro Shiroma used a wearing knit masks and Iwata and his business partner tie event honored theater, constantly engaged by ideas silk-like polyester to turn out headdresses that transformed Hiroshi Takizawa. For spring, film and opera director Julie and people, to be challenged. a feather-light assortment of them into fantastical creatures. they showed several variations on Taymor, 11th-generation More than anything it led to a fluttery dresses and separates the shirtdress and some ruffled, glassware maker Maximilian feeling of gratitude. What we in pastel watercolor prints. The Jun Okamoto: For his Japan sleeveless blazers that looked Josef Riedel and visual artist have really is a responsibility real stars were the edgy jackets Fashion Week debut, Jun sharp — particularly a vibrant red Kehinde Wiley. But the real to take the riches that are in and vests that used a traditional Okamoto showed a summery one over a white dress with an guests of honor were family front of us and to tell the truth Japanese paper-making collection of breezy dresses asymmetric hemline. members of the school’s found- about what’s out there.” WWD.COM

DALLAS PREVIEW FOR A MARKET CALENDER AND F.I.G. PREVIEW, SEE WWD.com/ City Touts Italian Fashion fashion-news.

materials in Africa and finished in Italy. By HOLLY HABER Fendi will show Carmina Campus bags — along with about 40 Italian fashion vendors — to buyers DALLAS — Get ready for Italian fashion, Texas-style. at the Italian Fashion Expo at the Dallas Market Italian Fashion Week, a series of shows, festivi- Center. (See related story below.) ties and seminars beginning here Oct. 22, has big Another highlight of the week is emerging de- ambitions to sell Italian goods and raise Big D’s signer Stella Jean, whose colorful spring collection profile as a fashion mecca. will be shown on the runway Oct. 24 at 129 Leslie, “Italian fashion has always concentrated on an event venue. A young Italian-Haitian designer the same three cities [in the U.S.] — New York, based in Rome, Jean is known for exuberant mul- Los Angeles and Las Vegas,” explained Silvia ticultural style and vibrant combinations of print, Raffa, director of the promotion for the Italian color and pattern. Jean showed at Fashion American Chamber of Commerce, Midwest divi- Week for the first time in September, and last year sion. “We think it’s time to move on, and we want she won the Who Is on Next contest cosponsored to develop Dallas as a fashion capital.” by Italian Vogue and AltaRoma. The Chamber and Italian Fashion Expo, a Jean’s spring collection will be followed by a run- company that organizes Italian food and way show of C.M.J., a high-end collection of embel- fashion exhibitions, plans to lished leather jackets for men produce Italian Fashion Week and women that’s been in busi- annually here for the next five A look ness more than two decades. years, Raffa said. The delega- from Another featured designer tion from Italy is expected to Stella is jeweler Lucia Odescalchi, an include about 40 vendors, the Jean. Italian noble whose showroom leaders of four major trade as- resides in her family’s palazzo sociations and seven journalists. in Rome. Odescalchi and her The city of Dallas is on modern jewelry handcrafted board with the project. of silver, chain mail, fossils, “Dallas has a long and suc- diamonds and other materials cessful history in the fashion will headline a cocktail recep- industry, being birthplace to tion Oct. 23 at Muzeion gallery Neiman Marcus,” said Dallas of art and antiquities. Mayor Mike Rawlings, noting A simultaneous party next the project is part of the city’s door at Samuel Lynne Galleries drive to develop new rela- spotlights the worldwide debut tionships within the industry. of Pump, a western-influenced “Because [fashion] plays a vital jeans line by Antonio D’Amico, role in our economy, the city is who was Gianni ’s long- working toward developing a time partner and a former de- sponsorship arrangement for signer of Versace Sport, and Italian Fashion Week in Dallas Ilaria Pump codesigner and co-owner and we look forward to devel- Venturini Massimo Lotti. oping a multiyear program Fendi Leaders of several major with the show coordinators.” Italian trade associations are The promotion targets re- also flying in for the event, in- tailers and consumers with cluding Cleto Sagripanti, presi- exhibitions and events at the dent of A.N.C.I., a national Dallas Market Center during association of about 1,000 foot- spring market, Oct. 25 to 28, wear manufacturers; Antonio and public fashion presen- Franceschini, national director tations in various galleries. of CNA Federmoda, which rep- It opens with a press lun- resents nearly 25,000 fashion, cheon Oct. 22 at the Nasher textile, fur and shoe producers, Sculpture Center. and Giuseppe Mazzarella, presi- “We think Texas is a good market for Italian dent of Confartigianato Moda, a fashion, textile, shoe companies,” said Maurizio Muzzetta, president of and eyewear group with about 28,000 members. IFE and a board member of the Italian American They are scheduled to appear at a round-table Chamber. “The economy is strong, and we think discussion on marketing high-quality fashions on there are the right people here to partner with. Yo u Oct. 26 at the Dallas Market Center. have Stanley Korshak and Neiman Marcus here be- Italian Fashion Expo, which hopes to add cause the people want to have beautiful style.” home furnishings to Italian Fashion Week next Ilaria Venturini Fendi, of the famous Roman year, is also hosting Robert Snaidero, president of fashion family, headlines the Italian entourage. The FederlegnoArredo, the furniture federation that designer will receive an award from Rawlings for launched the Milan Furniture Fair. “excellence in ethical business” on Oct. 26 at the The week of festivities expands on last year’s Forty Five Ten boutique. Her whimsical Carmina inaugural promotion that featured 45 Italian ven- Campus handbags are assembled from repurposed dors at the Dallas Market Center. DMC Readies for Buoyant Market IF PREBOOKED appointments and reorders are The Italian exhibit features many fashion any indication, sales representatives here proj- categories — including men’s and women’s con- ect a healthy turnout of buyers at the upcoming temporary clothing and shoes, fine and fashion fashion market Oct. 25 to 28 at the Dallas Market jewelry and leather handbags — from vendors Center, which features a special show of resourc- throughout Italy including Milan, Rome, Venice es from Italy. and Vicenza. “I think this will be our best market of the Among the fashion lines that plan to show are year,” said Allyson Cooke, owner of Launch con- Allagiulia espadrilles; embellished leather pumps temporary showroom at the DMC’s World Trade and boots by Phoe’N; Raggio Veneziano leather Center. “We’ve been calling stores and I’ve been handbags; 18-karat gold and gemstone jewelry on the road and everybody says they are coming. by Gabriela Rigamonti; handmade men’s hats by I’ve doubled my staff for market.” Barbisio, and detailed leather jackets for men and Traffic at the last two shows suffered from women by C.M.J. poor timing, she noted, with June falling close to A runway show of highlights is scheduled for Memorial Day weekend and August sandwiched 3 p.m. on Oct. 26, with informal modeling on the between shows in Los Angeles and Las Vegas. morning of the 25th and the afternoon of the 27th. “I definitely think business is getting better,” The group will also host daily lunchtime tastings said Rebecca Jacobs, a partner in the Shawn of Italian food and wine Oct. 25 to 27. Jacobs showroom of misses’ lines. “I’m getting In other news, the DMC plans to highlight the consistent reorders daily on Not Your Daughter’s roughly 75 Canadian resources that consistently Jeans, Erin London and Jana, a sweater line. The show in various permanent showrooms at the majority of our retailers are mom-and-pop stores.” World Trade Center. Grouped by the Quebec gov- For the second year running, the Italian Fashion ernment under the name Montreal Collections, Expo will showcase about 40 resources from Italy on they include L.A.M.B., Frank Lyman, Joseph the sixth floor of the World Trade Center. Ribkoff, Tribal, J.S. Collections and others. — H.H. 8 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2012 ’’ Target Plans Big Push for Holiday {Continued from page one} Target is starting to promote for Black made it the fastest-growing category across by Craig McDean, with illustrations by Friday early. The retailer last week the assortment. “Today, we sell as much Quentin Jones and featuring Karlie launched a commercial themed “Big Dog.” food as we do home goods and apparel,” Kloss, who sits in an oversize metal out- The decision to send the message out early said Kathee Tesija, executive vice presi- line of an ornament as if it were a swing. is “about launching our value proposition dent of merchandise and supply chain. The retailers, in “a TV first,” according and we want to put that foundation into n While home had been slightly lag- to Jones, partnered with ABC to promote place,” Steinhafel said. ging behind apparel, Steinhafel said the the new collection as the sole sponsor launch of Threshold, formerly Target of the midseason finale of “Revenge” on Home, should boost sales, an effect the Nov. 11. Target and Neiman’s are work- retailer saw when it relaunched Up & Up ing with series creator Mike Kelley to We absolutely want to private label consumables. produce a “‘Revenge’ episode inside a n Tesija said “health and beauty is ‘Revenge’ episode.” It will feature all 50 deepen our relationship where growth is particularly strong. products in the collection. Comp-store sales have grown 8 percent Asked whether shoppers will find the with our guests. We per year. In late summer, we started test- Target and Neiman Marcus holiday col- ing a beauty concierge in our Chicago lection priced too high, Steinhafel said, stores. They dispense advice agnostic “No. It goes from the very low range to sig- want to make her trip of brands, distribute samples and show nature items at higher prices. We learned guests product reviews.” from other designers what will sell. We more efficient, whether n Target wants to be the destination of will be delivering spectacular value on “Hollywood blockbusters,” Tesija said, these products, the vast majority of which she’s shopping for food and it’s selling exclusive versions of films are under $60.” such as “The Hunger Games.” It’s doing Holiday merchandise from the collaboration. The opening price point is $19.99 for a or apparel or home. the same with music, with ’s Christmas ornament by Rodarte, a statio- Target exclusive version of technology to let consumers navi- nery set by and a Tory — GreGG Steinhafel, “Speak Now,” with six bonus For more gate stores and find precise loca- Burch lunch box. Alice + Olivia’s color- tracks and 30 minutes of photos, see tions for specific items. ful bicycle is the most expensive at $499. tarGet COrP. video content. WWD.com/ Steinhafel said that Target In between there’s Proenza Schouler’s Asked how he feels about retail-news. will open its second City Target sweatshirt, $29.99; Brian Atwood’s leath- Beyond holiday, the nation’s second- being a showroom, where con- store in San Francisco. The small- er gloves, $49.99; Thom Browne’s blazer, largest discounter is plotting a string of sumers look at the product format, urban retail model made $129.99, and Jason Wu’s pair of girl’s initiatives, including: and then buy it on- its debut in that city dresses, $59.99. n Target has spent $3 billion on store re- line, Steinhafel said, this month, along Target hopes to further spur holiday models and has completed three out of “We love it when we with the first free- traffic with new rewards for holders of the four stores in its fleet. get to book the sale.” standing store for C-9 retailer’s proprietary credit and debit card, n The retailer is still focused on getting He noted that Target John Aquino by Champion, one the Red Card, who will qualify for free ship- its shoppers to cross the aisle from food to is partnering with of Target’s owned

ping and an extra 30 days to return pur- discretionary categories. “We absolutely Apple and the retail- Photo by brands. “We’ve chases between Nov. 1 and Dec. 24. Target want to deepen our relationship with our er rolled out a pilot gained valuable ex- is also extending its price-match policy to guests. We want to make her trip more ef- with Best Buy’s Geek perience in modify- its e-commerce site, and, for the first time, ficient, whether she’s shopping for food Squad this month. ing our format by Target will enable consumers to compare or apparel or home,” said’’ Steinhafel. The Other trials in the opening stores in Los prices with Wal-Mart on target.com. investment in the fresh food business has works, according to Angeles, Seattle and Casey Carl, presi- Chicago,” he said, dent of multichan- adding that the retail- nel and senior er will unveil its first vice president of City Target unit in merchandising, Portland, Ore., in July. include testing The launch in an in-store pick- Canada, where Karen Katz and up service where Target will have 124 Gregg Steinhafel The Boutique guests order on- stores in place by the line or via mo- end of 2013, is going Wholesale Venue In bile device. The service, which sounds well. “There is some signature white space similar to a Wal-Mart delivery option, in Canada in home and apparel, they don’t will launch in 2013 in Minnesota. Target have the same numbers of competitors as Downtown Dallas is also piloting same-day delivery in we do here,” Steinhafel said. “We have an partnership with eBay. Now in a trial opportunity to gain market share.” Wal- that launched Oct. 10 in San Francisco, Mart has revealed a $750 million invest- Target is also rolling out free Wi-Fi to all ment in Canada and Steinhafel said that UPCOMING 2012 MARKET DATES its stores and working with wayfinding entire market is in a state of change. FOCUSED. october 25-27. spring 1 FRESH. UPCOMING 2013 MARKET DATES YSL, Louboutin End Legal Battle january 24-27 . spring 2 march 21-24 . fall 1 {Continued from page one} that granted Louboutin its mark had FASHION. down Louboutin’s trademark but did done so fraudulently. Not only would not cancel it. that be a lot of trouble but it would “From our perspective, the Appeals also further strain an already frayed Court decision was a complete vic- relationship between two leading in- Join us on October 25th and meet our Featured Guest Designer tory for us,” said YSL lawyer David dustry brands. Ending in a truce of Cynthia Vincent of Twelfth Street! Bernstein. “We got the right to sell the sorts may also help heal the precari- shoes and the court even narrowed ous personal relationship between Louboutin’s trademark. It’s our hope Christian Louboutin and François- that Louboutin will stop using the Henri Pinault, chairman and ceo of [trademark] registration in an anticom- PPR, YSL’s parent company, according petitive way.” to sources familiar with the matter. While YSL dismissed its counter- Now that YSL has a new direction claims that essentially called into under creative director Hedi Slimane, question how Louboutin procured its Lewin hopes that the house, which is trademark, Bernstein said his client now known as Saint Laurent, will steer still has a “very strong” case to cancel clear of producing shoes that ruffle Louboutin’s registration should the Louboutin’s feathers. While the lawyer brand attempt another lawsuit. noted that under common law his cli- “There’s little reason for us to pur- ent still has a case against brands that sue the cancelation at this point,” he produce all-red shoes, he too seemed said. “We’ve already won and there’s no content to call the legal battle a truce. reason to be vindictive.” “Now that Pepsi and Coke have But Louboutin’s Lewin shrugged off fought over the formula, I must say, in Bernstein’s aggressive words, calling my 40-year career, I’ve never seen a case

the claims “counter threats” that are go more wide than this one,” Lewin re- pinkyotto

yosi samra yosi haute hippie “not substantive” and difficult to prove. marked. “It had a celebrity, fashion and Essentially, YSL would have to legal side to it but once the consumer bring the matter to the United States got involved, that changed the face of WWW.FASHIONINDUSTRYGALLERY.COM Patent and Trademark Office and the case. It was tried in the courtroom make the case that the patent office and the court of public opinion.”

w17a008a;5.indd 8 10/16/12 7:59 PM 10162012200014 WRITE ON: Eva Green was among those at a lunch in Paris to celebrate Montblanc’s latest offering. WWD STYLE PAGE 11

PHOTO BY EVAN FALK MEMO PAD

LUXURY PAPER: French financial daily Les Echos, which already has a glossy monthly magazine called Série Limitée, will also publish its first 12- to 16-page weekend supplement starting Nov. 16. At a press conference in Paris on Monday, Groupe Les Echos SA, owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, also unveiled a revamp of its Web site (with more content behind the paywall) and a new layout for the paper set to hit newsstand on Nov. 14. The weekend supplement, dubbed W.E., will cover fashion, arts, travel and leisure. Les Echos managing editor Henri Gibier said it is hoped the new addition will boost circulation on Fridays by 30 to 50 percent and advertising revenues by 20 percent.

Page one of the weekend supplement.

Bénédicte Epinay, editor in chief of Série Limitée, who will also oversee W.E., said there won’t be any cannibalization between the two outlets. “We looked at the Anglo-Saxon such as the Financial Times, which has both a magazine, How to Spend It, and weekend pages, or with its WSJ. magazine and its weekend pages, as well as the New York Times with T and Delivery style coverage,” she explained, adding that the tone would be “mischievous, light and practical.” Sandrine Merle and Gilles Denis, who already contribute to Série Woman Limitée, will continue to cover fashion. Gibier said they would NEW YORK — Gwyneth take advantage of the group’s sister publication, the monthly Paltrow looked glam in Connaissance des Arts art the wings while waiting magazine, for the art content, while the trendy organization Le to honor Ryan Murphy at Fooding would have a section God’s Love We Deliver dedicated to new restaurants. Les Echos, whose circulation Golden Heart Awards on is around 120,000, according to France’s Circulation Audit Monday night. Paltrow was Bureau, has an editorial staff of decked out in the work of about 180 people. The group said it is investing Murphy’s fellow honoree around 3 million euros, or $3.9 Michael Kors, who made a million at current exchange, in the new developments plus sizable delivery of his own. 4 million euros, or $5.2 million dollars, in a communication For more, see page 10. and advertising campaign to accompany the launch. — LAURE GUILBAULT 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2012

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Michael Kors with Bette WWD.com/eye. Midler in a look by the designer.

Chanel Iman and Karlie

Kloss in FALK EVAN Michael Blaine Trump in Kors. Michael Kors. in Michael Kors. PHOTOS BY eye Signed, Sealed, Delivered “IT IS literally jam-packed,” $5 million contribution during appreciation of Paltrow, Council speaker the evening, which will be used sartorially speaking. “I almost Christine Quinn said Monday night towards building new kitchen wore that outfit, so glad I didn’t,” as she surveyed the Cunard facilities. The night raised $1.35 he said of Paltrow’s black cutout Building’s grand hall, which million in addition to his gift. Kors number. Murphy optimized teemed with tables set for the After cocktails, guests filed his podium time, reading a Brooklyn God’s Love We Deliver annual into the venue’s vast concourse heart-wrenching scene from the Decker in Golden Heart Awards. More to sit under a grand, hand- upcoming movie of Larry Kramer’s Michael than 600 guests (the largest painted ceiling and take in the “The Normal Heart” — but not Kors. turnout of any of the charity’s mermaids, tritons and sirens until after he made a play for events) piled in at the sold-out featured in the marine-themed one very A-list guest. event for the charity. mural above. Gwyneth Paltrow “Before I go any further,” The overcrowding issue presented Murphy’s award, Murphy said, “there’s something could be attributed to the opening her remarks by speaking I really want to say which is, Karolina Michael Kors Bette Midler Kurkova popularity of , who, to how “Glee,” her children’s , please be on ‘Glee’!” along with “Glee” creator favorite show, has improved Though Milder, who was in Michael Ryan Murphy Kors. and God’s Love’s the way the gay community and seated beside Kors, roared with star volunteer Cindy Little, minorities have been portrayed laughter, the actress didn’t bid was recognized for his 20- in the media. She said the show on the show’s walk-on role in year involvement with the has taught her kids “that there the auction following dinner (it organization. Karolina Kurkova, is no difference between gay fetched $50,000, bought by Kors , Olivia Munn, Seth and straight people, people who investor Lawrence Stroll). She had Meyers and Robert De Niro were believe in different ideologies other incentives for attending. among those who turned up or black and white people.” It “They promised me the God’s to support the cause, as was seems to be working. “My son Love brownie recipe if I showed Seth longtime champion Blaine Trump, actually asked me a few weeks up; so here I am,” Midler said Meyers in the subject of several shout-outs ago if I was black when I was shortly after taking the stage to Michael throughout the evening. Kors little,” the actress said. present Kors with his award. Kors. was feeling extraordinarily After his introduction, “Just drop it off by my chair.” supportive himself, pledging a Murphy expressed his — TAYLOR HARRIS

Kristen Wiig in Elle’s Belles Collection. SARDELLA DONATO NOTHING PULLS IN the star Host Joel McHale, who was power quite like the promise of game to meet the comedic a magazine cover, or in the case standard set by past host Alec PHOTOS BY of Monday night’s Elle’s Women Baldwin, got the evening rolling in Hollywood event, nine with jokes about the all-white magazine covers, to celebrate decor in the Four Seasons honorees Uma Thurman, Octavia Beverly Hills ballroom. “With Spencer, Cate Blanchett, Elle all the red wine already spilled, Fanning, Emma Watson, Kristen you have no idea how much Wiig, Sarah Jessica Parker, Susan club soda it takes to keep this Sarandon and Shirley MacLaine. place clean,” he said, referring Cate perhaps to the giant red splotch Blanchett Emma Watson and Sarah that was quickly removed in Proenza between his table and the one Schouler. Jessica Parker in Calvin Klein Emma Stone Collection. seating Spencer, , Allison Janney, Viola Davis and Ahna O’Reilly. Testing the audience’s great to see all the women in There were also tears from limits, he added, “These chairs our clothes,” he said, as Rashida Spencer and nervous laughs are so white some of them have Jones, Zoe Kazan, Teresa Palmer, from Wiig, who had the crowd already voted for Mitt Romney.” Jamie King and Julianne Hough took roaring when she admitted she It drew laughs, as did most of their seats at his table. was having digestive issues his one-liners except for a crack Susan Sarandon admitted she because of her nerves. about Lindsay Lohan and Amanda resorted to going on the Internet When MacLaine finally got Bynes working the valet. to find appropriate quotes. “I up on stage to accept the last The real draw at the yearly found one by Virginia Woolf; honor at 11 p.m., she said, “I event is typically the presenter I thought she’d be good,” she have so many people to thank, and honoree speeches, usually began. She ended with Mark but they’re all dead. Don’t worry, the most dreaded part of a Twain “who’s not a girl, but still I’ll catch up with them later.” Hollywood gala, but here a pretty great guy.” Fanning Speaking from years eagerly anticipated for their charmed the crowd with her of experience, MacLaine Emma emotional sincerity or comic youth, Watson with her poise described the benefits of Stone in relief. Francisco Costa, there to and Thurman with her moxie. approaching life like a movie Valentino. represent presenting cosponsor Thurman also had the benefit production, and ended with a Calvin Klein Collection (L’Oréal of being introduced by her “Bel graceful acceptance of aging Paris also sponsored), said it Ami” costar Robert Pattinson, who in Hollywood: “I’m ready to of entering the Jessica Tandy was one of his favorite events to quipped, “I’ve been learning to give up my key light and my phase of my future.” attend. “It’s fun and honest and read just for this. It’s terrifying.” filters because I like the idea — MARCY MEDINA WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2012 11 WWD.COM

where it showed editors from 13 countries its spring collections. Curleigh talked up the FASHION SCOOPS company’s new line of Waste

Elton John and Stevie David Furnish Nicks

For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com.

PARTNER WANTED ARTIST WANTED ABS/BLUE PEARL China-based factories specializing in Seeking CaD artist with min 3 years by ALLEN SCHWARTZ cold weather accessories seeking part- experience. Must have knowledge to ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE ner wanting to add these types of prod- spec and create prints. Max imports - Opportunity available for A/E in high ucts to their current lines. Contact: woman’s apparel. Contact Danny Sabz end contemporary sportswear and [email protected] [email protected] or 212-221-1161 fashion denim. Must have strong spe- cialty store background and relation- ships on a national level (50 states). FABRIC SOURCING & DEVELOPMENT Min. of 3 yrs experience. Send resume Women’s outerwear company looking to: [email protected] or Rock of Ages for an experience fabric sourcing and fax to 213-895-4402. development person. will work closely PATTERNS, SAMPLES, with design team, must have good PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY PRODUCTIONS communication skills, excellent follow- Full service shop to the trade. up, Placing and tracking all sampling Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 fabrics, Liaising with mills and build- “STEVIE’S COMING; it’s such a big And so I’m really proud of that. I’d like ing /maintaining strong relationships, responsible for lab dip, sampling yard- deal,” Courtney Love said Monday night to see her.…[It’s been] seven years. age color and quality approvals, also maintain fabric resource library. Email as she walked the rain-damp red Do you think she’ll recognize me?” [email protected] carpet at Cipriani Wall Street at the Nicks walked by the press line shortly Elton John AIDS Foundation’s Enduring thereafter, eschewing print reporters Domestic & Import Sweater/Sportswear Manufacturer (vertical operation) Vision benefit. Love was speaking for a rendezvous with a crowd inside with strong infrastructure seeks Stevie Nicks David MERCHANDISING/SALES Counterpart about . The Seventies rock that included John and partner Email: [email protected] siren would be performing later in Furnish, Brooke Shields, Matt Lauer, Julian the evening. The gala fund-raiser Schnabel and Anderson Cooper, who circuit is, of course, a playground played emcee for a sixth consecutive to rock legends of a certain vintage, year. All told, the night raised $2 the evening’s namesake very much million for John’s AIDS charity, much included, but Love seemed genuinely of which came at a post-dinner auction excited by the prospect of the that featured a pair of Warhols. Fleetwood Mac singer’s impending Shortly after the last lot moved, Nicks arrival. “We did this cover of ‘Gold Dust took the stage with her band as white- Woman’ that I’m really proud of,” she jacketed waiters passed coffee and said of Hole’s 1996 reinterpretation dessert. Sitting at a table slightly of the “Rumours” standard. “It really removed from the stage, Love donned helped her financially at the time. a pair of eyeglasses as she took in the (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] Well, whatever, it did really well.… performance. — MATTHEW LYNCH th

REGISTER FOR ABY SPECIAL NOVEMBER RATE 9

For a full list of speakers: wwd.com/jandigital2013 TO ATTEND: [email protected], 212.630.5926 TO SPONSOR: [email protected], 212.630.4425

SPONSORED BY: