All Business It Is Ready to “Close the Book” on What Had Become
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KINDLY KORS MICHAEL KORS GIVES $5 MILLION TOKYO’S TURN TO GOD’S LOVE THE FIRST FEW DAYS OF JAPAN FASHION WE DELIVER. WEEK GO FROM TEDDY BEARS TO FUTURISM. PAGE 10 PAGE 6 NEIMAN’S TIE-UP KEY Target Unveils Slew Of Holiday Promotions By SHARON EDELSON NEW YORK — Target believes American consumers are feeling more upbeat — and is planning an aggressive push for the holidays to make sure they stay that way. “If you look at consumer sentiment, it’s ticked up,” Gregg Steinhafel, Target Corp.’s chairman and WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER17, 2012 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 chief executive offi cer, told WWD at its second annual WWD Media Day here. “Postelection, there will be less un- certainty. We work on a bipartisan basis and hope a [fi scal] compromise will be reached. “I don’t see the guest racing ahead,” he added, speaking of Target’s customers. “The guest gets value. Our apparel business has been very healthy all year. We’re seeing signs and glimmers of hope.” Steinhafel said he is somewhat optimistic about the holiday season because Target has a string of in- centives planned and distinctive merchandise — from a special holiday gift assortment of accessories, nail polish and clutches in distinctive colors and packag- ing to the Target and Neiman Marcus holiday collec- tion, which was kept under wraps in the next room of the presentation space until it was time for the big reveal, when a curtain parted and the dramatically lit products could be seen surrounding a larger-than- life-size red gift box. Prior to opening the curtain, Steinhafel and MERCER Karen Katz, president and ceo of the Neiman Marcus Group, shared the podium. “Strange bedfellows, EMILY huh?” Katz said under her breath. Then, she added, “Target is without peer in their ability to source and manufacture. This will resonate with those who shop ASSISTANT: at Target or Neiman Marcus or both. It’s the perfect match in every way.” FASHION The groundbreaking partnership called for an un- expected advertising and marketing campaign, said Jeff Jones, executive vice president and chief mar- keting offi cer of Target, and Wanda Gierhart, senior DECERVANTES; vice president and chief marketing offi cer of NMG, offering a fi rst look at the collection’s campaign shot ADRIANA SEE PAGE 8 ASSISTANT: PHOTO YSL, Louboutin Truce By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD COSMETICS; NARS NEW YORK — Fashion’s battle over red has ended FOR with a white flag. After a highly publicized legal tug of war that MIYAKE lasted a year and a half, Yves Saint Laurent SA said Tuesday that it will drop its lawsuit against Christian MISUZU Louboutin SA. BY Claiming it won a “conclusive” victory, YSL said All Business it is ready to “close the book” on what had become MAKEUP Suits made a major statement on the New York runways this one of the most widely scrutinized legal cases in the season, from traditional blazer-trouser combos to unexpected fashion world. JUAN; Louboutin sued YSL in April 2011, claiming the pairings, like Rachel Comey’s silk and linen cargo jacket and dress, fashion house infringed on the footwear brand’s SACHA shown here with Swarovski sunglasses, Leatherock belt, Tory Burch trademark when it sold red pumps with red soles. FOR Presiding New York federal court judge Victor iPad case and Stuart Weitzman pumps. For more, see pages 4 and 5. Marrero disagreed with Louboutin, and allowed YSL GROUP to continue to sell the monochrome shoes. The judge went a step further by questioning the validity of WALL Louboutin’s trademark. THE AT With its mark in jeopardy, the French shoemaker appealed the decision, and in January, Louboutin GOULD lawyer Harley Lewin argued his client’s case before a packed courtroom, which included industry fi gures OWEN such as Council of Fashion Designers of America BY president Diane von Furstenberg, CFDA chief ex- HAIR ecutive offi cer Steven Kolb and an apprehensive Christian Louboutin. Nearly a year of deliberating ensued and came to a head last month when the Court of Appeals ruled FRANCES/MUSE; that YSL had the right to make and sell the mono- chromatic shoes. In doing so, the court whittled PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY MODEL: SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2012 Gap Reorganizes Executive Ranks THE BRIEFING BOX ers, delivering consistently great ness unit at Gap but also of the By ARNOLD J. KARR product around the world.” online division. Toby Lenk, who’d IN TODAY’S WWD Jack Calhoun, the president of served as president of online, will GAP INC.’S executive structure Banana Republic North America, leave the company in February has gone global. will become global president of “to return to his entrepreneurial Reflecting worldwide expan- the brand and expand his pur- roots,” Gap said, after putting the Dancers at the American Apparel event in Tokyo. sion that’s seen it move into 40 view to all channels and regions, company on track to surpass its countries, up from eight in 2006, as will Julie Rosen in her capac- 2014 goal of $2 billion in online the San Francisco-based apparel ity as the brand’s top merchant. sales. In fiscal 2011, Gap’s direct- specialty retail giant has reorga- In a preview of the organi- to-consumer sales totaled $1.56 nized its executive ranks along zational structure put in place billion, 11 percent of the total rev- brand lines, integrating interna- Tuesday, Gap in May named enue figure of $14.55 billion. They tional, online, outlet and franchise Stefan Larsson the first global accounted for $1.3 billion in 2011, operations into four silos — Gap, president for Old Navy, a post he 9 percent of the company total of Old Navy, Banana Republic and a assumed this month. Larsson’s $14.66 billion. new Innovation, Digital Strategy appointment coincided with A Gap spokeswoman noted and New Brands division. The Gap’s plans to begin a rollout that Peck “has been successful in new unit is to be headed as presi- of Old Navy into international every role he’s had at Gap, lead- GIANNONI dent by Art Peck, current presi- markets starting this summer in ing our outlet division and being dent of Gap North America, and Japan. Jill Stanton, who’s served instrumental in the Athleta ac- will include Gap’s newest, small- quisition [in 2008]. The thinking GIOVANNI est brands, Athleta and Piperlime. here is that the Innovation unit BY Responsibility for the Gap will act as an incubator for new PHOTO brand will be in the hands of brands and new technology. He’ll Steve Sunnucks, who joined Gap basically be quarterbacking and Target believes American consumers are feeling more in 2005 after working as chief ex- sharing intelligence and innova- upbeat — and is planning an aggressive push for the ecutive officer of New Look and tion for the entire organization.” holidays to make sure they stay that way. PAGE 1 most recently served as presi- Peck was president of Gap’s dent of the international unit. As outlet division when he was Yves Saint Laurent SA said Tuesday it will drop its red sole global president of Gap brand, tapped by Murphy in February trademark lawsuit against Christian Louboutin SA. PAGE 1 he will be based in New York 2011 to succeed the ousted Marka and report to Glenn Murphy, Hansen as president of Gap Chanel said Tuesday it acquired Scottish cashmere Gap chairman and ceo. Mark North America. North American specialist Barrie Knitwear, maker of the French fashion Breitbard, named president of Gap sales continued their down- house’s iconic two-tone cardigans. PAGE 3 Gap North America, will report ward trajectory last year, falling to Sunnucks and work from San 6.1 percent to $3.56 billion and Tumi Holdings Inc.’s shares fell 3.3 percent after investors Francisco. Breitbard had been Steve down 4 percent on a same-store began digesting information that some shareholders plan to senior product leader for Gap Sunnucks basis. However, like Gap’s other hold a secondary offering. PAGE 3 brand in the U.S. and Canada. North American businesses, With international duties in- they’ve been up so far in 2012, Weibo is slowly turning into a cesspool of fake fans, tegrated into the brand organiza- as a creative adviser to the culminating in a 13 percent in- organized fan attacks by competing brands, and huge tions, the international unit will brand, will join full-time as exec- crease in July. Year-to-date same- price tags on so-called Key Opinion Leaders. PAGE 3 effectively cease to exist. utive vice president responsible store sales are in fact up 6 per- The transition to these new for global product design and de- cent at all three North American For its 125th anniversary, Pratt Institute had the Empire roles begins Nov. 5, Gap said, velopment, reporting to Larsson. operations while down 4 percent State Building illuminated in gold and then welcomed guests and will be fully implemented at Nancy Green, who has been in the international unit. to its annual gala at the Waldorf-Astoria. PAGE 6 the start of the 2013 fiscal year. executive vice president and Randal Konik, analyst at It also comes as Gap goes into chief creative officer of Old Navy, Jefferies & Co., said the recon- A healthy turnout of buyers is expected at the upcoming the homestretch of 2012 sport- will assume a new role provid- figuration “should help Gap Inc. fashion market at the Dallas Market Center, which features ing greatly improved same-store ing product assortment and to expand its international busi- a special show of resources from Italy.