Raan – The Price of Stardom

Raan Jay Fai Bangkok – The Price of Stardom

Charoenchai Agmapisarn* Received: June 5, 2018 Revised: June 5, 2019 Accepted: June 26, 2020

Abstract When Michelin, the French tire company that distributes the prestigious international dining guides, first announced their intention to publish a guide to Bangkok, many questioned whether any of the street food vendors would receive a star. Indeed, Jay Fai, whose real name is Supinya Junsuta, a 73-year-old female chef, won this award with her famous dish: “crab omelet” After the announcement of Michelin Guide in 2018, the one-star award brought about a surge of customers for Jay Fai, who had never heard of the guide before and had to be persuaded to attend the ceremony. The restaurant continues to serve mainly wok-cooked seafood dishes. Following the announcement, Raan Jay Fai Restaurant became extremely busy and is highly popular among food enthusiasts despite its high prices. Due to this Michelin-starred fame, she has encountered several challenges ranging from a dramatic increase in customers to unwanted attention from the tax men.

Keywords: Michelin Star, Bangkok, Street Food, Culinary, Jay Fai

* Graduate School of Tourism Management, National Institute of Development Administration 118 Moo 3, Serithai Road, Klong-Chan, Bangkapi, Bangkok 10240, . E-mail: [email protected]

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รานเจไฝ กรุงเทพ- ราคาของการเปนดารา

เจริญชัย เอกมาไพศาล*

รับวันที่ 5 มิถุนายน 2561 สงแกไขวันที่ 5 มิถุนายน 2562 ตอบรับตีพิมพวันที่ 26 มิถุนายน 2562

บทคัดยอ เมื่อ “มิชลิน” บริษัทผลิตยางรถยนตของฝรั่งเศส ไดจัดทําคูมือแนะนํารานอาหารระดับ นานาชาติ หลังจากที่ประกาศวาจะมีการจัดคูมือแนะนําอาหารสําหรับกรุงเทพมหานครเปนครั้งแรก กอใหเกิดคําถามมากมายวารานอาหารริมทางใดจะไดรับรางวัล ในที่สุด “รานเจไฝ” ภายใตชื่อจริง สุภิญญา จันสุตะ เชฟผูหญิงอายุ 73 ป ไดรับรางวัลมิชลินสําหรับรานอาหารของเธอ หลังจากที่ได มีการประกาศคูมือแนะนําอาหารมิชลินประจําป 2561 การไดรับรางวัลมิชลินหนึ่งดาว ทําใหราน มีจํานวนลูกคาเพิ่มมากขึ้น โดยเจไฝเปนผูที่ไมรูจักคูมือมิชลินมากอนและถูกเชิญไปรับรางวัล ราน (เจไฝ) ยังคงใชเตาถานในการประกอบอาหารและขายอาหารทะเล หลังจากที่ไดรางวัล รานเจไฝ ตองพบกับความวุนวายและไดรับความสนใจเปนอยางมากจากผูที่ชื่นชอบเรื่องอาหารแมวาราคาจะ แพง เพราะชื่อเสียงของมิชลินสตาร ทําใหเจไฝตองเผชิญกับปญหาจากการเพิ่มขึ้นของจํานวนลูกคา ที่มากจนถึงการไดรับความสนใจที่ไมพึงประสงคจากเจาหนาที่สรรพากร

คําสําคัญ: ดาวมิชลิน กรุงเทพฯ อาหารริมทาง การทําอาหาร เจไฝ

* คณะการจัดการการทองเที่ยว สถาบันบัณฑิตพัฒนบริหารศาสตร เลขที่ 118 หมู 3 ถนนเสรีไทย แขวงคลองจั่น เขตบางกะป กรุงเทพมหานคร 10240 อีเมล: [email protected]

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Introduction On December 6, 2017, at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok Hotel, the Michelin Guide editors unveiled for the first time its Michelin Guide Thailand. The inaugural 2018 edition revealed 17 Michelin starred restaurants. Leading the charge were Gaggan, Le Normandie, and Mezzaluna with two stars each, while Jay Fai was the only one of Bangkok’s impressive street eats to win a Michelin star. When Michelin, the French tire company that distributes international dining guides, first announced they would be publishing a guide to Bangkok, many wondered whether any of the street food vendors would receive a star. Indeed, Jay Fai (in Thai it means Sister Mole; she has a big mole on her face), whose real name is Supinya Junsuta, a 73-year-old self-taught female chef (as of May 2018). Her restaurant, Raan Jay Fai occupies a shophouse on Maha Chai Road, in the neighbourhood known as Samran Rat or Pratu Phi, which sits within Bangkok’s Phra Nakhon District. This small open-air and barely decorated restaurant, with green tiled walls and simple tables and stools for seating, could not have anticipated the challenges and consequences that are to follow (Holmes, 2017). Raan Jay Fai opened in 1980, she initially served and dishes such as kitiao khua ka (stir- noodle with chicken) and (broad rice in gravy) based on her mother’s recipes. After that, she continuously expanded her repertoire, experimented with fresh ingredients, and developed her techniques. She began using locally sourced seafood and travelled extensively to procure better ingredients and charging accordingly. Over the years her restaurant gained a steady stream of followers and had since become one of the most famous street-side restaurants in the city of Bangkok. Some would argue that she is the victim of her success because Raan Jay Fai was famous even before it received Michelin’s approval, despite its relatively high prices (Ono, 2018). A Star is Born After the announcement of Michelin star guide in 2018, the one-star award brought about a surge of customers for Jay Fai, who had never heard of the guide

NIDA Case Research Journal Vol. 11 No. 1 (January-June 2019) 80 Charoenchai Agmapisarn before and had to be persuaded to attend the ceremony. The restaurant continues to serve mainly wok-cooked seafood dishes. Following the announcement, Raan Jay Fai Restaurant became extremely busy and attracted many food enthusiasts from around the world despite its high prices. Based on a 2018 Michelin star guidebook, Raan Jay Fai is the world’s third “street food” restaurant to gain a Michelin star, following Hong Kong soya sauce chicken rice and noodle and Hill Street Tai Hwa noodle in Singapore whom each has a star (McLaughlin, 2017). Unlike other Michelin-star chefs, Jay Fai has never had an apprenticeship or received formal professional training in a culinary school. Her reluctant cooking apprenticeship started when she was helping her mother to cook at her local food stall after a personal misfortune. When she was growing with her seven siblings, they lived together in this sleepy part of Old Town and her parents made a meager living by selling jook (congee) and rad na (broad in gravy) from a cart. Nevertheless, Jay Fai steps up to make ends meet by doing odd jobs (Hubbell, 2017). As a middle child, she learned quickly to look after everyone else. Her family circumstances did not allow her to further her studies. Although she was a good student, she was too concerned with supporting her parents and helping her siblings. She went on to open a successful tailoring business until she lost it all in a fire that burnt her shop to the ground. Based on her interview, she explained with her exciting voice that “At the beginning, our family business was in making and importing clothes for the Central department until we lost our business in a fire” (S. Junsuta, personal communication, May 21, 2018). She recalled making good money from her clothing business, but after the fire, she was so depressed that she found that cooking made me feel better because it was something different (Hubbell, 2017). Her first main dishes were congee, fried rice noodle with chicken and fried vermicelli that she cooked with woks over hot charcoal fires. At that time, she was no interested in cooking but had to help her mother. In general, Michelin-star chefs have two education paths before becoming a professional chef. The former is the professional on-the-job training, which many chefs in Europe do. Such

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hands-on training is designed to make Michelin star cooks more competent in restaurant operations and cooking techniques. It is also a common path for chefs whose aims are to run a Michelin-starred establishment. The latter is to attend culinary school to earn a degree in culinary arts or hospitality. Many young Michelin star chefs in Europe follow this route compared with the apprenticeship passage because on completing their studies, they intend to open their restaurants (Johnson, Surlemont, Nicod, & Revaz, 2005). The route of being a chef for Jay Fai has been an intimate and pragmatic journey. She said, “I personally do not like cooking while my sister does. Yet, to help the family business, I must learn how to cook by watching my mom and doing it several times” (S. Junsuta, personal communication, May 21, 2018). This self-taught method forces her to develop a unique approach to mastering her unique culinary skills. She further explained that a top chef must have a personal characteristic such as stamina, creativity, and a focus on customers. Jay Fai said (personal communication, May 21, 2018), “I am up by noon each day and open my restaurant from 2 pm till 2 am the next day; now, I would go to bed after 2 am and before I would stay till the shop is closed”. However, she often works long hours, and in some cases, she is up early in the morning to check the raw materials sent from suppliers. Lately, she has delegated those tasks to her staff who arranges all things before the shop opens and stay late evenings to accommodate customer demands. While cooking in her outdoor kitchen, Jay Fai wears goggles to protect her eyes from blazing fires from burning charcoal. She has some sous-chefs and cuisiniers to help her prepare mis-en-place, and at times, to cook some easy dishes. She explained, “It is an exhausting work because I am the main cook. My sous chef can cook just only simple dishes, not the main dishes such as Goong (sour prawn soup), Poo Phad (stir-fried crab curry), Homemade Prawn Cake, and Yum Woon-Sen-Spicy Thai salad with glass noodles and mixed seafood. These main dishes need a professional who knows how to measure the ingredients and cook in the right method. Even someone who has been working

NIDA Case Research Journal Vol. 11 No. 1 (January-June 2019) 82 Charoenchai Agmapisarn with me for several years, he/she cannot cook as do I.” (S. Junsuta, personal communication, May 21, 2018). Throughout the Michelin-star history, it has been quite tricky for Thai restaurants to be awarded Michelin star. Fifteen years ago, Nahm in London was awarded one star after it opened in 2001 and then it closed to reopened at Como Metropolitan Bangkok, with one Michelin star award in 2017 as does Raan Jay Fai. Chef David Thomason, who won one Michelin star for his restaurant, named Nahm, told CNN that Thai restaurants with Michelin stars are still a bit of a rare breed. He provided two other one start Michelin restaurants: Kin Khao in San Francisco and Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen as examples (Hsiao, 2017). The Michelin Star Back in the days before the Internet and Google, two brothers, André Michelin, an engineer, and his younger brother, Édouard came up with the idea of creating a guidebook for French hotels in the countryside to encourage people to climb into a car and equipped with Michelin tires to explore the French countryside. In 1900, the first edition had a five-hundred-and-seventy-five-page alphabetical listing of towns throughout France and the distances between them. The guide provided recommendations for hotels and places to refuel, and instructions on how to change a flat. André wrote in the preface of the first edition, “This work comes out with the century; it will last as long.” In 1936, the Michelin brothers introduced the first countrywide restaurant listings and unveiled the star system for ranking food, with one-star denoting “a very good restaurant in its class”; two stars “excellent cooking, worth a detour”; and three stars “exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey.” Today, the Michelin guide has taken to the digital age and social networks, but the content developed over a century ago is still relevant to today’s tech-savvy travellers.

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Michelin Stars Shine in Bangkok On December 6, 2017, in a gala dinner at Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, the winners of the first Michelin Guide Bangkok 2018 were announced. On that night, Michelin Guide awarded 17 restaurants in Bangkok with 20 stars. However, out of that, was only awarded seven stars. Six Thai fine-dining restaurants were awarded one-Michelin star. They are Bo. lan, Chim by Siam Wisdom, Nahm, Paste, Saneh Jaan and Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin. Some believe that there are several street vendors across Bangkok worthy of a two star, and merely must ask any of the hungry locals who drive across town for their favorite food carts or hole-in-the-wall joints. Bangkok Michelin Guide 2018 recommended a total of 28 street food stalls, but Raan Jay Fai was the only one awarded one star. Beyond this, only three establishments were awarded two stars: Gaggan; Le Normandie; and Mezzaluna. Bangkok is the seventh Asian city awarded with the Michelin guide. To get this stage, Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) had partnered and spent over 123 million Thai baht on a five-year Michelin star project. The project has successfully placed Bangkok as one of the top ranking culinary city, joining the rank of Tokyo, Singapore, Hong Kong, and Macau (Hsiao, 2017; Suchiva, 2017). Under this enterprise with Michelin Guide, both TAT Governor Yuthasak Supasorn and Tourism and Sports Minister Kobkarn Wattanavrangkul agreed that it would effectively promote Thailand as a quality leisure destination, serving as one of the top prominent gastronomic places in the world. With this Michelin award, it would benefit the Thai tourism industry, increase business for local restaurants, and expand overall economic development. Since the publication of the Bangkok Michelin Guide, information on several culinary attractions and activities, ranging from fine dining restaurants to the finest of food hawker destinations are beginning to reap its benefits. Moreover, TAT Governor Yuthasak further explained that “Along with Bangkok, Phuket and Phang Nga are another two fantastic gastronomic destinations in Thailand, and it is only natural that the 2019 Michelin Guide be expanded to cover all three cities.

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Gastronomy tourism is the main element of our latest Amazing Thailand’s ‘Open to the New Shades’ communication concept, and we are thrilled to have such an important benchmark as Michelin to help us promote Thailand as a world-class dining destination.” (Tourism Authority of Thailand, 2018). The ongoing partnership between Michelin and TAT would further position Bangkok as a global gastronomic destination through the famed Michelin Guide and further increase the number of quality tourists who have passion for culinary discovery and dining. Hence, TAT has confirmed that Michelin Guide will expand two more tourist destinations: Phuket and Phang Nga. With her unique local culture and beautiful natural environment, Phuket, the first city in Thailand and ASEAN region to be on the list of the UNESCO creative cities of gastronomy is well placed along with Phang Nga, located to the north of Phuket, to offer many more gastronomical experiences for local and global visitors. Bangkok’s claim to the best street food city in the world is made up of many areas such as Chinatown, Old Town, Sukhumvit, Saphan Lueng, Silom and Sathorn; these areas offer many exciting cuisines such as , noodles, and chicken rice (Nualkhair, 2015). Based on Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA) data, almost 20,000 registered eateries in this city, varying from noodle stands that sell 30-baht bowls of noodles to high-end Italian and sushi restaurants where international chefs provide varieties of high-end cuisine (Ono, 2018). In 2017, CNN awarded Bangkok as one of the most famous cities on street food (Hsiao, 2017). With its exciting attractions from sidewalk vendors, push carts, holes in a wall, Bangkok provides a range of street foods from the breakfast crowd with sweet soymilk and bean curd to dish up fragrant rice and poached chicken for lunch to the late-night crowd, with everything from noodles to grilled satay are on offer. BMA announced in 2017 that it attempted to rid the city’s sidewalks of street vendors, who sell anything from Pad Thai noodles to clothes. Such actions might make Bangkok no longer one of the best cites for street foods. By the end of the year 2017, hawkers plying their trade on the streets of Bangkok was forced to pack up for good, except for those two areas - Khao San Road and Yaowarat in

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Chinatown. This ban on street vendors is to improve safety and cleanliness in Bangkok as BMA claimed (Hincks, 2017; YK, 2017). However, in a 2016 Nielsen survey (Ono, 2018) revealed that 22% of Thai respondents said they dined out at least once a day, compared with the global average of 9%. Such an increase in spending on eating out in Thailand may be the result of increased in urbanization and overall living standard. Signature Dish: A Future Challenge As people talk about “signature dish” in Raan Jay Fai, all must mention “crab omelet.” This dish makes her internationally famous as Bangkok’s “crab omelet queen” on the Michelin guide (Rose, 2018). Jay Fai mentioned, based on her interview, that she accidentally created this dish when she went to visit her daughter in Australia. She tried to make her daughter dinner by cooking whatever that she could find in her refrigerator. She disclosed (S. Junsuta, personal communication, May 21, 2018) that “I first make an omelet with Japanese cooking style, frying in the deep-pan. Then I keep practicing my cooking till my omelet does not absorb too much oil when breaking out”. Her first omelet tasted incredibly delicious as her daughter gave her great compliment, and then she started to make the omelet with crab. She further explained that “I always use top-quality ingredient when cooking my crab omelet and the crab has been specially sourced from Nakhon Si Thammarat (the city in southern Thailand).” Many people said that Jay Fai’s prices are not in keeping with the rest of the street food, which locals put down to her large portions. A Jay Fai favorite dish is her browned, thick crab omelet for which she charges about 800 baht (USD 25) (Holmes, 2017). Many customers come here for her signature dish, crab omelet. As one customer complimented, “The ingredients are so fresh, and Jay Fai herself is so generous that it is worth the price.” (Kupferman-Sutthavong, 2017). On one occasion, she had a question raised regarding the expensive crab omelet; she quickly replied (S. Junsuta, personal communication, May 21, 2018) that “I do not care whether people are concern about the price. If they do, they do not have to dine here because all the dishes I made are from superior ingredients”.

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Her shophouse is very famous even before being awarded the one Michelin star because of her high prices (Ono, 2018). Based on a study by Johnson et al. (2005, p. 181), it stated that the most future challenge among Michelin-starred chefs is to develop new culinary products and concepts, which is indispensable for all Michelin-rated chefs, who should keep their high-level consistency and serve every dish with “zero defects.” Presenza, Abbate, Casali, & Perano (2017) further explained several Michelin-starred chefs work tirelessly at developing their own recognizable and unique culinary style and identity over time. The formulation of a unique and original culinary style allows them to stand out in the market. New dishes help to defend their competitive position. Hence, Michelin chefs believe that their recipes and dishes are a valuable form of intellectual property that needs protecting. Regarding Raan Jay Fai, many locals and visitors have long made the trek to her small, no-frills shophouse, where diners perch on stools under fluorescent lights, and where Jay Fai with her make-up, jewelry, and pink rubber boots, cooks seafood specialties over traditional charcoal stoves. It has been like this for years (Gluckman, 2017).

Other Challenges Based on a survey of 36 Michelin starred-restaurants with two or three Michelin stars over the period of ten years in France, Belgium, the United Kingdom, and Switzerland, it revealed that most difficulty which all Michelin-starred chefs face with is human resources. In this respect, it is challenging to recruit, retain, and motivate employees, who have competencies and developed social skills for long-term success (Johnson et al., 2005). Likewise, Jay Fai (personal communication, May 21, 2018) emphasized that it is very burdensome to find someone working in this business. Even her two daughters are reluctant to take on the business. She said, “My daughters love their work, the older one works for Bangkok Post once she graduated from Australia, while the younger one still works at Ital-Thai (construction company). None of them is interested in my shophouse business. They do help me when they are free, yet most of the time they follow their own works”.

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Jay Fai has encountered insurmountable difficulties in her labor force. She could hardly find any Thai to help her in the kitchen. Instead, she must recruit Khmer employees to assist her. She explained “It becomes tough to recruit any local people to work and I still do not understand why Thai do not like to work in this business, even when I pay an extra 1,000 baht per day, nobody is interested. Moreover, now I have to hire more foreign workers from Cambodia”. However, it is very challenging to hire foreign labor staff because Thai law now has capped the migrant labor at 20% in the service industry since the National Legislative Assembly passed the act on the management of migrant labor in April 2018 (Charoensuthipan, 2018). Business Orientation One study by Lane (2010) in Michelin-starred restaurant business found that getting one Michelin star will generate the restaurant business an increase of 20-30 percent if more stars will even be higher. However, once a restaurant loses its Michelin star/s, its revenue could potentially fall around 10-20 percent. After having Michelin star for one week, Raan Jay Fai has attracted a diverse crowd: foodies, bloggers, and curious onlookers and self-appointed critics. So now, the officials from the Revenue Department (RD) has joined her list of the fan base. Since her restaurant become the focus of all the media attention, the RD has taken a keen interest in how much she makes per day (Kupferman-Sutthavong, 2017). Jay Fai said, “I am very frustrated with RD staff. The Thai government is interested in my revenue for tax collection but never helps my business even before I got Michelin-award. Unlike in Thailand, I had been invited by the Japanese government to see their gastronomic tourism. There [in Japan] the government tried to help the culinary business to survive or assist their set up”. Jay Fai added, “Years and years; I have been struggling to keep this business afloat. Now that we’ve been singled out and interviewed by journalists, they [RD staff] are coming at us.” (Kupferman-Sutthavong, 2017). After earning a Michelin star, Jay Fai has attracted unwanted attention from government auditors, and her employees have struggled to cope with the increased pressure

NIDA Case Research Journal Vol. 11 No. 1 (January-June 2019) 88 Charoenchai Agmapisarn from the new-found fame (O’Connell, 2018). Based on personal interview, Jay Fai ended her sentences about how she feels about her business after having Michelin star, “Oh, I wish I could return the star since now many tax revenue staff always come to see me and check my revenue” (S. Junsuta, personal communication, May 21, 2018). Raan Jay Fai – The Price of Stardom Jay Fai is the newest food hawker to receive one star from Michelin. Beforehand in 2016, two simple Singapore food stalls (Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle and Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice and Noodle) made history by becoming the first street hawkers to be awarded stars by the prestigious guide. In 2015, Michelin announced a new street food category for the 2016 Hong Kong Macau Guide (Tonon, 2018). With its Michelin star reputation, Jay Fai has not increased her food rates since being included in the Michelin guide. Nonetheless, she has increased her food cost since by purchasing more ingredients to meet the ever-increasing demand. Regrettably, she has lost many loyal customers because of the long queue and lengthy wait time. In some days, customers must wait up to four hours. Heretofore, her restaurant had not been overly busy, but she still has time to talk with her customers in between preparing her famous dishes such as crab omelets and rad na noodles. Jay Fai has said to the press that she wishes to return the star because she feels so annoyed by the sudden surge of attention on her restaurant and the constant demands from journalists for interviews. She said, “Many people come just to see and take pictures and not necessarily to eat.” (O’Connell, 2018). Similarly, another 3-Michelin-star chef, Sebastien Bras withdrew from this prestige award due to the “huge pressure” of running a restaurant business. Chef Bras is the first that Michelin recipient to successfully ask for a withdrawal from the Michelin Guide (AFP, 2018). Nowadays, the restaurant business has become more highly competitive, and the pressure for many chefs to develop their unique dining experience is higher

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than ever. With a Michelin star award, a restaurant will gain high respect for their food quality and their service standard worldwide. However, nobody knows if Raan Jay Fai will keep its ‘star’ for next year or if Jay Fai wants to keep her ‘star’ or not. Case Problem Even after receiving the Michelin star, Jay Fai has not increased her food prices. She must buy a more considerable amount of supply each day to meet with the increased customer demand. There are mixing intense criticism from TripAdvisor, an American travel and restaurant website company, disclosing hotel and restaurant reviews. Some love her food, while others bitterly commented on website, one customer, visiting on March 2019, posted that “I am not sure what this place was like before it got its star but I can’t imagine this place having been popular before if it was at the same price point. The noodle dishes start at 500 baht. The famed crab omelet is a 1000 baht and the crab curry are at 1500 baht. Those are just astronomical prices. I can see on the menu that prices have increased recently since they have like tape over the old prices and I wonder what they were before it got its star. The food is good but at that price point I can go to a much nicer setting with food that is comparable and eat there 5 times without the wait. This isn’t like those places that have lines of locals waiting to eat either. There are no locals eating there at all which is a terrible sign - just tourists and foreigners who don’t mind paying the extreme prices at this hole in the wall. I can’t ever imagine going back here even if the prices were half of what it was.” (Overrated tourist trap, 2019) Jay Fai’s primarily concerned is that she may not have sufficient knowledge to make a valid decision about which direction to go, but she knows that if she does not act soon, her business could suffer and that what she has built over the years may no longer exist in ten years. She calls you in to help her by assessing the situation and recommending a realistic and practical course of action. How can she handle many strident criticisms regarding her expensive price, slow service, long queue, and complacent from customers? (Naylor, 2019). The deliverable

NIDA Case Research Journal Vol. 11 No. 1 (January-June 2019) 90 Charoenchai Agmapisarn is a three-page report summarizing the issues, analyzing the alternatives, and making a recommendation. Think about the situation and prepare an annotated plan of how you would approach advising Jay Fai and her family. References AFP. (2018). Michelin lets French chef Sebastien Bras give up 3 stars. DW. Retrieved from http://www.dw.com/en/michelin-lets-french-chef-sebastien-bras-give- up-3-stars/a-42365338 Charoensuthipan, P. (2018, May 7). Foreign labour cap set at 20% under new law. Bangkok Post. Retrieved from https://www.bangkokpost.com/news/ general/1459641/foreign-labour-cap-set-at-20-under-new-law Gluckman, R. (2017, December 15). Bangkok Michelin Guide: Chinatown crab omelette queen on earning her star alongside fine-dining restaurants. South China Morning Post. Retrieved from https://www.scmp.com/lifestyle/ food-drink/article/2124278/bangkok-michelin-guide-chinatown-crab-omelette- queen-earning Hincks, J. (2017, April 18). The World’s Street-Food Capital Is Banning Street Food. CNN. Retrieved from http://time.com/4743955/bangkok-street-food-ban/ Holmes, O. (2017, December 6). “Queen of Thai street food” wins Michelin star in Bangkok guide. The Guardian. Retrieved from https://www.theguardian.com/ lifeandstyle/2017/dec/06/queen-of-thai-street-food-jay-fai-wins-michelin- star-bangkok-guide Hsiao, T. (2017, December 7). First Bangkok Michelin Guide recognizes Thailand’s best restaurants. CNN. Retrieved from https://edition.cnn.com/travel/article/ michelin-guide-bangkok-2017/index.html Hubbell, D. (2017, August 11). Bangkok’s Most Expensive Street Food Is Totally Worth It. VICE. Retrieved from https://www.vice.com/en_id/article/9kkwk7/bangkoks- most-expensive-street-food-is-totally-worth-it Johnson, C., Surlemont, B., Nicod, P., & Revaz, F. (2005). Behind the stars: A concise typology of Michelin restaurants in Europe. Cornell Hotel and Restaurant

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Administration Quarterly, 46(2), 170–187. https://doi.org/10.1177/ 0010880405275115 Kupferman-Sutthavong, A. (2017, December 19). A reluctant star. Bangkok Post. Retrieved from https://www.bangkokpost.com/lifestyle/social-and-lifestyle/ 1381587/a-reluctant-star McLaughlin, K. (2017, December 15). Best Thai street food: Bangkok restaurant Raan Jay Fai awarded with Michelin star. Traveller. Retrieved from http://www. traveller.com.au/bangkok-street-food-restaurant-raan-jay-fai-awarded-with- michelin-star-h03h7v Naylor, T. (2019). The problem with food tourism: the chefs fighting to keep their restaurants special. The Guardian. Retrieved from https://www.theguardian. com/food/2019/jan/24/the-problem-with-food-tourism-the-chefs-struggling- to-keep-their-restaurants-special Nualkhair, C. (2015, November 25). Bangkok’s best street food: a guide to dishes and districts. The Guardian. Retrieved from https://www.theguardian.com/ travel/2015/nov/25/bangkok-best-street-food-guide-dishes-districts-thailand O’Connell, R. (2018, February 19). The Bangkok chef who hates her Michelin star. News.Com.Au. Retrieved from http://www.news.com.au/travel/world-travel/ asia/the-bangkok-chef-who-hates-her-michelin-star/news-story/341b432fed 23b58e300bfdffd910b402 Ono, Y. (2018, January 14). Starred Bangkok eateries struggle with too many customers. Nikkei Asian Review. Retrieved from https://asia.nikkei.com/ Life-Arts/Life/Starred-Bangkok-eateries-struggle-with-too-many-customers Overrated tourist trap. (2019). Overrated tourist trap. Retrieved June 16, 2019, from https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g293916-d3703955- Reviews-Raan_Jay_Fai-Bangkok.html Presenza, A., Abbate, T., Casali, G. L., & Perano, M. (2017). An innovative approach to the intellectual property in haute cuisine. International Journal of Hospitality Management, 65, 81–88. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijhm.2017.06.009

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Rose, L. (2018, January 9). Bangkok’s “crab omelette queen” wants to give back her Michelin star. Los Angeles Times. Retrieved from http://www.latimes.com/ food/sns-dailymeal-1866019-eat-bangkok-crab-omelette-queen-wants- give-back-her-michelin-star-20180109-story.html Suchiva, N. (2017). Michelin, TAT plan guide for Bangkok. Bangkok Post. Retrieved from https://www.bangkokpost.com/business/tourism-and-transport/1236334/ michelin-tat-plan-guide-for-bangkok. Tonon, R. (2018, January 9). Bangkok’s Only Michelin-Starred Street Food Vendor Wants to Give Back Star. Eater. Retrieved from https://www.eater.com/ 2018/1/9/16865246/michelin-star-bangkok-raan-jay-fai-street-food-vendor Tourism Authority of Thailand. (2018, May 15). TAT announces new Michelin Guide Bangkok, Phuket and Phang Nga 2019. YK, R. T. (2017, April 19). Bangkok’s street vendor ban: 5 other places around the world famous for street food. The Straits Times. Retrieved from https://www. straitstimes.com/asia/se-asia/bangkoks-street-vendor-ban-5-other-places- around-the-world-famous-for-street-food

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