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Raan Jay Fai Bangkok – the Price of Stardom Raan Jay Fai Bangkok – The Price of Stardom Raan Jay Fai Bangkok – The Price of Stardom Charoenchai Agmapisarn* Received: June 5, 2018 Revised: June 5, 2019 Accepted: June 26, 2020 Abstract When Michelin, the French tire company that distributes the prestigious international dining guides, first announced their intention to publish a guide to Bangkok, many questioned whether any of the street food vendors would receive a star. Indeed, Jay Fai, whose real name is Supinya Junsuta, a 73-year-old female chef, won this award with her famous dish: “crab omelet” After the announcement of Michelin Guide in 2018, the one-star award brought about a surge of customers for Jay Fai, who had never heard of the guide before and had to be persuaded to attend the ceremony. The restaurant continues to serve mainly wok-cooked seafood dishes. Following the announcement, Raan Jay Fai Restaurant became extremely busy and is highly popular among food enthusiasts despite its high prices. Due to this Michelin-starred fame, she has encountered several challenges ranging from a dramatic increase in customers to unwanted attention from the tax men. Keywords: Michelin Star, Bangkok, Street Food, Culinary, Jay Fai * Graduate School of Tourism Management, National Institute of Development Administration 118 Moo 3, Serithai Road, Klong-Chan, Bangkapi, Bangkok 10240, THAILAND. E-mail: [email protected] NIDA Case Research Journal Vol. 11 No. 1 (January-June 2019) 78 Charoenchai Agmapisarn รานเจไฝ กรุงเทพ- ราคาของการเปนดารา เจริญชัย เอกมาไพศาล* รับวันที่ 5 มิถุนายน 2561 สงแกไขวันที่ 5 มิถุนายน 2562 ตอบรับตีพิมพวันที่ 26 มิถุนายน 2562 บทคัดยอ เมื่อ “มิชลิน” บริษัทผลิตยางรถยนตของฝรั่งเศส ไดจัดทําคูมือแนะนํารานอาหารระดับ นานาชาติ หลังจากที่ประกาศวาจะมีการจัดคูมือแนะนําอาหารสําหรับกรุงเทพมหานครเปนครั้งแรก กอใหเกิดคําถามมากมายวารานอาหารริมทางใดจะไดรับรางวัล ในที่สุด “รานเจไฝ” ภายใตชื่อจริง สุภิญญา จันสุตะ เชฟผูหญิงอายุ 73 ป ไดรับรางวัลมิชลินสําหรับรานอาหารของเธอ หลังจากที่ได มีการประกาศคูมือแนะนําอาหารมิชลินประจําป 2561 การไดรับรางวัลมิชลินหนึ่งดาว ทําใหราน มีจํานวนลูกคาเพิ่มมากขึ้น โดยเจไฝเปนผูที่ไมรูจักคูมือมิชลินมากอนและถูกเชิญไปรับรางวัล ราน (เจไฝ) ยังคงใชเตาถานในการประกอบอาหารและขายอาหารทะเล หลังจากที่ไดรางวัล รานเจไฝ ตองพบกับความวุนวายและไดรับความสนใจเปนอยางมากจากผูที่ชื่นชอบเรื่องอาหารแมวาราคาจะ แพง เพราะชื่อเสียงของมิชลินสตาร ทําใหเจไฝตองเผชิญกับปญหาจากการเพิ่มขึ้นของจํานวนลูกคา ที่มากจนถึงการไดรับความสนใจที่ไมพึงประสงคจากเจาหนาที่สรรพากร คําสําคัญ: ดาวมิชลิน กรุงเทพฯ อาหารริมทาง การทําอาหาร เจไฝ * คณะการจัดการการทองเที่ยว สถาบันบัณฑิตพัฒนบริหารศาสตร เลขที่ 118 หมู 3 ถนนเสรีไทย แขวงคลองจั่น เขตบางกะป กรุงเทพมหานคร 10240 อีเมล: [email protected] Vol. 11 No. 1 (January-June 2019) NIDA Case Research Journal 79 Raan Jay Fai Bangkok – The Price of Stardom Introduction On December 6, 2017, at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok Hotel, the Michelin Guide editors unveiled for the first time its Michelin Guide Thailand. The inaugural 2018 edition revealed 17 Michelin starred restaurants. Leading the charge were Gaggan, Le Normandie, and Mezzaluna with two stars each, while Jay Fai was the only one of Bangkok’s impressive street eats to win a Michelin star. When Michelin, the French tire company that distributes international dining guides, first announced they would be publishing a guide to Bangkok, many wondered whether any of the street food vendors would receive a star. Indeed, Jay Fai (in Thai it means Sister Mole; she has a big mole on her face), whose real name is Supinya Junsuta, a 73-year-old self-taught female chef (as of May 2018). Her restaurant, Raan Jay Fai occupies a shophouse on Maha Chai Road, in the neighbourhood known as Samran Rat or Pratu Phi, which sits within Bangkok’s Phra Nakhon District. This small open-air and barely decorated restaurant, with green tiled walls and simple tables and stools for seating, could not have anticipated the challenges and consequences that are to follow (Holmes, 2017). Raan Jay Fai opened in 1980, she initially served congee and noodle dishes such as kitiao khua ka (stir-fried rice noodle with chicken) and rat na (broad rice noodles in gravy) based on her mother’s recipes. After that, she continuously expanded her repertoire, experimented with fresh ingredients, and developed her techniques. She began using locally sourced seafood and travelled extensively to procure better ingredients and charging accordingly. Over the years her restaurant gained a steady stream of followers and had since become one of the most famous street-side restaurants in the city of Bangkok. Some would argue that she is the victim of her success because Raan Jay Fai was famous even before it received Michelin’s approval, despite its relatively high prices (Ono, 2018). A Star is Born After the announcement of Michelin star guide in 2018, the one-star award brought about a surge of customers for Jay Fai, who had never heard of the guide NIDA Case Research Journal Vol. 11 No. 1 (January-June 2019) 80 Charoenchai Agmapisarn before and had to be persuaded to attend the ceremony. The restaurant continues to serve mainly wok-cooked seafood dishes. Following the announcement, Raan Jay Fai Restaurant became extremely busy and attracted many food enthusiasts from around the world despite its high prices. Based on a 2018 Michelin star guidebook, Raan Jay Fai is the world’s third “street food” restaurant to gain a Michelin star, following Hong Kong soya sauce chicken rice and noodle and Hill Street Tai Hwa pork noodle in Singapore whom each has a star (McLaughlin, 2017). Unlike other Michelin-star chefs, Jay Fai has never had an apprenticeship or received formal professional training in a culinary school. Her reluctant cooking apprenticeship started when she was helping her mother to cook at her local food stall after a personal misfortune. When she was growing with her seven siblings, they lived together in this sleepy part of Old Town and her parents made a meager living by selling jook (congee) and rad na (broad rice noodles in gravy) from a cart. Nevertheless, Jay Fai steps up to make ends meet by doing odd jobs (Hubbell, 2017). As a middle child, she learned quickly to look after everyone else. Her family circumstances did not allow her to further her studies. Although she was a good student, she was too concerned with supporting her parents and helping her siblings. She went on to open a successful tailoring business until she lost it all in a fire that burnt her shop to the ground. Based on her interview, she explained with her exciting voice that “At the beginning, our family business was in making and importing clothes for the Central department until we lost our business in a fire” (S. Junsuta, personal communication, May 21, 2018). She recalled making good money from her clothing business, but after the fire, she was so depressed that she found that cooking made me feel better because it was something different (Hubbell, 2017). Her first main dishes were congee, fried rice noodle with chicken and fried vermicelli that she cooked with woks over hot charcoal fires. At that time, she was no interested in cooking but had to help her mother. In general, Michelin-star chefs have two education paths before becoming a professional chef. The former is the professional on-the-job training, which many chefs in Europe do. Such Vol. 11 No. 1 (January-June 2019) NIDA Case Research Journal 81 Raan Jay Fai Bangkok – The Price of Stardom hands-on training is designed to make Michelin star cooks more competent in restaurant operations and cooking techniques. It is also a common path for chefs whose aims are to run a Michelin-starred establishment. The latter is to attend culinary school to earn a degree in culinary arts or hospitality. Many young Michelin star chefs in Europe follow this route compared with the apprenticeship passage because on completing their studies, they intend to open their restaurants (Johnson, Surlemont, Nicod, & Revaz, 2005). The route of being a chef for Jay Fai has been an intimate and pragmatic journey. She said, “I personally do not like cooking while my sister does. Yet, to help the family business, I must learn how to cook by watching my mom and doing it several times” (S. Junsuta, personal communication, May 21, 2018). This self-taught method forces her to develop a unique approach to mastering her unique culinary skills. She further explained that a top chef must have a personal characteristic such as stamina, creativity, and a focus on customers. Jay Fai said (personal communication, May 21, 2018), “I am up by noon each day and open my restaurant from 2 pm till 2 am the next day; now, I would go to bed after 2 am and before I would stay till the shop is closed”. However, she often works long hours, and in some cases, she is up early in the morning to check the raw materials sent from suppliers. Lately, she has delegated those tasks to her staff who arranges all things before the shop opens and stay late evenings to accommodate customer demands. While cooking in her outdoor kitchen, Jay Fai wears goggles to protect her eyes from blazing fires from burning charcoal. She has some sous-chefs and cuisiniers to help her prepare mis-en-place, and at times, to cook some easy dishes. She explained, “It is an exhausting work because I am the main cook. My sous chef can cook just only simple dishes, not the main dishes such as Tom Yum Goong (sour prawn soup), Poo Phad Yellow Curry (stir-fried crab curry), Homemade Prawn Cake, and Yum Woon-Sen-Spicy Thai salad with glass noodles and mixed seafood. These main dishes need a professional who knows how to measure the ingredients and cook in the right method. Even someone who has been working NIDA Case Research Journal Vol. 11 No. 1 (January-June 2019) 82 Charoenchai Agmapisarn with me for several years, he/she cannot cook as do I.” (S. Junsuta, personal communication, May 21, 2018). Throughout the Michelin-star history, it has been quite tricky for Thai restaurants to be awarded Michelin star. Fifteen years ago, Nahm in London was awarded one star after it opened in 2001 and then it closed to reopened at Como Metropolitan Bangkok, with one Michelin star award in 2017 as does Raan Jay Fai.
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