THE BEST OF 1

rom the temples of Wat and The Grand Palace through to Thailand’s Khao Yai and Doi Inthanon national parks and FKo Hong rock, to scuba diving in Ko Pha Ngan and the white, sandy beaches of Hua Hin, Thailand is a land of variety. The country has plenty to satisfy single travelers, couples, or families, from Bangkok’s shopping and nightlife to adventure sports in the northern hills or a pam- pering spa at a beach resort. All topped off with the famous Thai hospital- ity; their smiles and irresistible, laid-back attitude.

CITIES & TOWNS Begin in Bangkok, with its chaotic mix of ancient temples and modern glass towers, street markets and stylish shopping malls, tuk-tuks, and river taxis. Then head north to the venerable, walled city of Chiang Mai for a peek at the capital of the region once known as “the Kingdom of a Million Rice Fields,” but leave at least a few days to sprawl on a beach on Ko Samui or Phuket. COUNTRYSIDE Go trekking or white-water rafting in the northern hills that are home to brightly dressed hill-tribes, cycle round the ancient cities of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai in the Central Plains, pick from over a hundred national parks to explore, or cruise along the Andaman or Gulf coast in search of stunning dive sites. EATING & DRINKING is enough reason to visit the country in itself, and whether you crave the brow-mopping challenge of a fiery tom yam or an aromatic bowl of in broth, you’ll find it all here. Learn to eat like the Thais, squatting on low stools at street-side food stalls, but treat yourself at least once to a gourmet feast served on starched tablecloths by waiters in traditional dress. THE COAST Thailand’s long coastline is peppered with beautiful beaches, and presents some tough choices for visitors. Do you head for one of the mainstream beaches, like Patong Beach on Phuket, where you’ll find aCOPYRIGHTED huge choice of hotels, restaurants, shopping, MATERIAL and nightlife, or do you look for somewhere quiet that’s off the tourist radar, like Prach- uap Khiri Khan on the Gulf coast or Ko Kradan near Trang? The deci- sion rests with you.

004_9781118119983-ch01.indd4_9781118119983-ch01.indd 1 33/23/12/23/12 11:57:57 PMPM 1 THE most unforgettable THAI EXPERIENCES W Speaking Thai for the first time: You’ll probably feel like an idiot, and your hosts will probably roll around laughing as you splutter out your first “sawasdee” (hello) or “khop khun” (thank you). Yet you’ll notice how much your effort is appreciated, and you’ll be encouraged to try it again. See p. 390. W Seeing the sun rise over a sea of mist: It’s only possible in the north and during the cool season, but it’s a sight to remember—the sun emerging from a sea of mist in the valley below. Spectacular sights include the Mae Hong Son loop (p. 331) and from the summit of Doi Luang Chiang Dao (p. 324). W Going eye to eye with a parrotfish: Diving is one of the most popular activities in Thailand, but even snorkelers will be blown away by the colorful wonderland that lies just below the surface of the Andaman Sea and the Gulf of Thailand. Best place to learn to dive? Ko Tao (p. 206). Best spot for snorkeling? Ko Surin (p. 248). W Riding an elephant:

The Most Unforgettable Thai Experiences The Most Unforgettable It may be corny, but there’s an inescapable thrill at being

transported by such a huge creature, and any time spent with elephants will con-

firm all you’ve heard—they’re gentle, sensitive, and intelligent animals. Rides are available in tourist areas countrywide; check out the Thai Elephant Conservation Center near Lampang. See p. 322. W Chatting with monks: Thai temples rank high on most people’s hit list, but few expect to have a meaningful conversation with the resident monks. Fortunately the Thais’ outgoing, friendly nature means many monks are eager to practice their English, and some temples even have set times when visitors can visit for a “monk chat.” See p. 309. W Watching a bout of Thai boxing (muay thai): If you’d like to see Thais acting pas-

THE BEST OF THAILAND sionately about something, attend any Thai boxing contest. You’ll probably watch the audience more than the boxers themselves, as they flail their fists in the air and scream encouragement for their chosen fighter. See p. 117. THE best CITY EXPERIENCES W Riding the Skytrain in Bangkok: It was built as an attempt to alleviate Bangkok’s traffic problems, but it could just as easily have been designed to help visitors get to know Bangkok. Grab a window seat and watch the city sail by from 20m (65 ft.) above ground. See p. 64. W Getting lost in Chiang Mai’s Old City: Not all experiences need an itinerary, and it’s fun to take an improvized stroll through Chiang Mai’s Old City. Start at any corner and wander along narrow lanes, through peaceful temple compounds and squares, until you reach the moat on the other side. Then get a tuk-tuk to take you back to your hotel. See p. 288. W Watching a cabaret in Pattaya: Thailand is famous for its lady-boys (transsexuals), and Pattaya has a reputation as the country’s sex capital, so why not see what all the fuss is about by attending one of the cabaret shows in town? Don’t forget the camera—you’ll be faced with a clutch of sumptuously dressed, over-eager models who pose on stage and after the show. See p. 145.

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004_9781118119983-ch01.indd4_9781118119983-ch01.indd 2 33/23/12/23/12 1:571:57 PMPM W Imagining how Ayutthaya used to be: The former capital of Siam, Ayutthaya was razed by the Burmese in the 17th century and was never rebuilt. Fortunately, 1 enough remains of the ruins to imagine how it looked to early European emissar- ies, who reported the city more beautiful than Paris or London in its heyday. THE BEST OF THAILAND See p. 133. W Exploring Lampang in a horse and carriage: Put on your best Stetson and hop aboard for a canter round town in one of Lampang’s colorful horse and carriages. An hour’s tour of the main temples costs around $10 and you might just feel like the Lone Ranger as there are rarely any other tourists in town. See p. 321. THE best FOOD & DRINK

EXPERIENCES

W Eating at a food stall for the first time: Many Westerners are reluctant to squat The Best Ways to Experience Thailand Like a Local on a low stool and eat at a street-side food stall, but once you’ve done it, you’ll find this is one of the tastiest (and cheapest) ways to enjoy Thai food. Don’t worry about language problems—just point to an appealing dish, settle down, and dig in. See p. 27. W Discovering dishes: Thai cuisine is lauded for its stir-fries and curries, generally eaten with rice, but there are hundreds of exquisite noodle dishes, too. Try a phad thai (literally “Thai fry”), a delicious combination of , beansprouts, peanuts, egg, and shrimp, or rat na, a plate of flat noodles topped with vegetables, meat of your choice, and a thick gravy. See p. 24. W Eating in food courts: For a crash course in Thai cuisine head to one of the food courts that are found in every department store and shopping mall. Buy a fistful of coupons (200B should be plenty) and choose something tasty from one of the many stalls that specialize in different dishes. See p. 24. W Tasting durian for the first time: The range of tropical fruits in Thailand is enor- mous, but don’t miss the chance of tasting durian, which to most Thais is simply “the king of fruits.” It might smell like a pair of old socks, but the creamy taste and smooth texture is nothing short of heavenly. See p. 24. W Joining a cookery class: Once you’ve got a taste for Thai food, you’ll probably want to learn how to prepare it yourself, and fortunately there are hundreds of places throughout the country where you can try your hand and taste the results. In Bangkok, head for the Blue Elephant (p. 93), or in Chiang Mai, the Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School (p. 310). THE best WAYS TO EXPERIENCE THAILAND LIKE A LOCAL W Respecting elders: Though Thais are very easy-going people in general, they abide by a fairly rigid social code that affords great respect to seniority, and you will accrue much merit with the locals by showing respect to anyone older than you. Give them a wai (bow), open a door for them, let them go first, and be rewarded with a broad grin of thanks. See p. 20.

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004_9781118119983-ch01.indd4_9781118119983-ch01.indd 3 33/23/12/23/12 11:57:57 PMPM W Shopping in local markets: Early morning is the best time to visit local markets, 1 when there’s a bustle in the air and all the produce is fresh. As a visitor, you may be more interested in taking photos than actually shopping, but keep your eyes open for a bunch of bananas for a snack or some fresh-cut flowers. In Bangkok, check out Pak Klong Talad. See p. 124. W Bargaining: Many Western visitors are shy about offering a lower price than adver- tised for goods, but bargaining is the norm in Thailand. Start by offering 50–70% of the item’s stated price and increase your offer as the vendor decreases the sale price to reach an agreement, but don’t haggle about just a few baht. W Riding in a tuk-tuk: Thais do it out of necessity, while foreigners do it for the thrill of roaring round town in these screaming, open-sided, brightly decorated vehicles. Savvy drivers know there’s money to be made from foreigners, so bargain to get a

The Best Family Experiences reasonable price. See p. 370. W Getting stuck in Bangkok traffic: It may not be the most thrilling experience, but if you want to live like a local, you just have to get caught in gridlock at least once. If it happens, don’t panic, just sit back and take it like a Thai would by saying “Mai pen rai” (“It doesn’t matter”), even if it does. W Taking an overnight train: Given the number of low-cost airlines around, it per- haps doesn’t make good economic sense to travel great distances by train. Yet the experience of heading somewhere new, being rocked to sleep by the chugging train and waking to views of misty paddy fields makes for a memorable experience. Good rides are from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, Nong Khai, and Had Yai. See p. 370.

THE BEST OF THAILAND THE best FAMILY EXPERIENCES W Relaxing on a sandy beach: If there’s one thing that kids and adults have in com- mon, it’s a love of being on a sandy beach by the sea, though parents should beware of bays with steep drop-offs. Two of the gentlest beaches in Thailand that also have roving vendors selling snacks are Patong Beach on Phuket (p. 217) and Chaweng Beach on Ko Samui (p. 179). W Befriending restaurant staff: In fact, you won’t need to befriend them as they’ll befriend your kids first, and they’ll probably amuse the children while you enjoy your dinner in peace. This simple feature of Thailand makes so much difference to many family holidays, and a small token of your appreciation in the form of a tip would not be amiss. W Visiting the Siam Museum: Kids are often bored silly by museums, but Bangkok’s newest offering is not so much about ancient history as what it means to be a Thai, and as such is interesting to all ages. There are lots of hands-on exhibits, plus chances to dress up in period costume and see how accurately you can fire a can- non. See p. 109. W Visiting a floating market: In bygone days, much of Thailand’s commerce took place on canals, and floating vendors sold everything from farming implements to bowls of noodles. These vendors’ skills have not been lost, and though floating markets such as the one at Damnoen Saduak (p. 129) are now geared mostly to tourists, a ride round the canals looking at the fruits and flowers on sale is a great adventure for kids.

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004_9781118119983-ch01.indd4_9781118119983-ch01.indd 4 33/23/12/23/12 1:571:57 PMPM W Watching a festival parade: If possible, time your visit to coincide with one of Thailand’s national or local festivals. These are inevitably accompanied by spec- 1

tacular parades with elaborate floats and locals dressed up in their best. See p. 29. THE BEST OF THAILAND W Watching wildlife: It’s worth making the effort to visit the national parks and see wildlife as it should be; I recommend signing up for a tour in Khao Yai National Park. See p. 30. THE best FESTIVALS W Songkran: Thailand’s traditional New Year festival is a celebration that lasts for a week or more, though it’s officially only April 12 to 14. Often called the Water- Splashing Festival, it involves lots of playful fun with spray guns and buckets. Kids love it and it’s worth planning a holiday around this event. See p. 28.

W Loy Krathong: Thailand’s second-biggest festival, usually in November, involves The Best Beach Experiences floating candle-lit krathong on rivers and waterways throughout the kingdom. Without doubt the most visually beautiful of all Thai festivals, it marks the end of the rains and beginning of the cool season, a great time to be there. See p. 331. W Visakha Bucha: Celebrating the Buddha’s birth, death, and enlightenment, this countrywide festival is celebrated in May in temple compounds, where locals walk three times clockwise round the stupa carrying candles, incense, and flowers. Feel free to join in. See p. 330. W Phuket Vegetarian Festival: The highlight of this eye-popping spectacle is when devotees parade the streets with skewers, swords, and drill bits stuck through their cheeks. Don’t attend if you’d be disturbed by such scenes; do attend if you’ve got a strong stomach and want to see some unforgettable sights. See p. 220. W Chiang Mai Flower Festival: Taking place in February, when the maximum num- ber of flowers is in bloom in North Thailand, this festival features floats smothered with bright-colored and sweet-smelling flowers, accompanied by proud representa- tives from local schools and businesses dressed in elaborate costumes. See p. 330. W Surin Elephant Roundup: A can’t-miss event for elephant lovers, this pachyderm party sees hundreds of elephants converge on Surin in in November for a weekend of parades, mock battles, and a blow-out buffet. Humans are welcome, too. See p. 366. THE best BEACH EXPERIENCES W Dining on Chaweng Beach (Ko Samui): Good for sunbathing, jogging, swimming, and partying, Chaweng isn’t Samui’s most popular beach for nothing. If you don’t want to be kept awake by rowdy night owls, pick a spot at the north or south end of the beach. There’s good snorkeling off the south end and about a hundred ven- ues for a romantic, beachfront dinner. See p. 179. W Partying at Had Rin (Ko Pha Ngan): The now-infamous Full Moon parties on Ko Pha Ngan’s Had Rin have been attracting crowds of raving revelers for years, though many of the revelers have had their fun curtailed by drug busts or monster hangovers. There are also half-moon and black-moon (no moon) parties in case you can’t make it for the full moon one. See p. 202. W Relaxing on Nai Thon Beach (Phuket): Patong may be Phuket’s best-known strip of sand, but Nai Thon gets this beach bum’s vote for prettiest on the island (and

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004_9781118119983-ch01.indd4_9781118119983-ch01.indd 5 33/23/12/23/12 11:57:57 PMPM there’s some stiff competition!). It’s a perfect, 500-m (1,640-ft.) arc of golden sand 1 lapped by turquoise waters and protected by two rocky headlands. Oh, and I almost forgot the best thing about it—there’s hardly anyone there. See p. 231. W Wading at Loh Dalam Beach (Ko Phi Phi): The north-facing beach of Phi Phi Don’s two back-to-back beaches forms a perfect horseshoe and is fringed by blind- ing white sands. It’s very shallow, so not too good for swimming, but if you take a walk out in the bay as the sea recedes at low tide, you’ll enter a wonderland of corals, sea urchins, and sea anemones, without even needing a mask and snorkel. See p. 258. W Taking boat trips from Ao Nang (Krabi): Though it’s known to most people as a jumping-off pier for nearby Railay Beach, Ao Nang is much less crowded and has more options for dining and shopping, so is better suited to families. The beach

The Best Gifts to Bring Home itself is fine and safe for kids, but it’s also easy to take boat trips to the many islands

in Phang Nga Bay from here. See p. 251. W Watching sunsets on Had Sai Khao (White Sand Beach, Ko Chang): This west- facing beach, with its gorgeous powder-soft sand and fringe of palm trees, fits anyone’s notion of paradise, particularly when there’s a sinking sun setting the sky ablaze. There’s a wide choice of places to stay and eat, and it’s long enough to get away from the crowds. See p. 152. THE best GIFTS TO BRING HOME THE BEST OF THAILAND W Textiles: Thai silk has a reputation for high quality, and different regions of the country are famed for different weaving styles and designs; tailored items of cloth- ing make great souvenirs. Don’t overlook garments made of local cotton and hemp, which is more comfortable to wear in a hot climate. W Home decor: Thai designs display a flair that is admired worldwide, and small, packable items of home decor make ideal gifts. Pick up a bamboo and sa paper lantern that weighs next to nothing, a set of table mats in a striking design, or a compact set of coasters that will slip in any bag. W Lacquerware: Though the process of making lacquerware is long and laborious, the finished product is both distinctively Thai and very light to carry. Bowls and plates, trays, jewelry boxes, and decorative animals are just a few top picks. W Silverware: Thai silverware, particularly that made by the northern hill-tribes, is highly valued for its comparative purity and quality workmanship. Common items include jewelry (earrings, pendants, and bracelets, and even belts) and embossed bowls showing scenes from Thai history. W Woodcarvings: While woodcarvings are generally too bulky and heavy to consider taking home, you’ll see a huge variety of items on sale, including Buddha images and cute, palm-sized elephants. Also keep your eyes open for attractively designed picture and photo frames that pack easily and weigh little. W Ceramics: Like woodcarvings, ceramics are bad news when it comes to baggage allowance, but some items are so beautiful that you may be tempted to take them home. Look out in particular for vases, plates, and trays made of celadon, which has a distinctive pale-green color and a cracked glaze. If you can’t resist buying, I’d suggest you pay to have them shipped home.

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EXPERIENCES THE BEST OF THAILAND W Visiting Thailand’s origins: Few visitors get to visit Ban Chiang, in a remote cor- ner of Isan, but this is the country’s oldest archaeological site. Remains of an advanced civilization which made metal tools and pottery with haunting spiral patterns are on display in the local museum. See p. 361. W Stepping into the courtyard of a Khmer temple: Parts of modern-day Thailand, including vast tracts of Isan, once belonged to the Khmer Empire. If you need proof, go and look at the superbly restored temples at Pimai (p. 358) and Phanom Rung (p. 367), which, incidentally, are in direct alignment with Angkor Wat. The

Khmer style and craftsmanship is unmistakable, and the stone carvings in a class of their own. The Best Small-Town Experiences W Gazing at illuminated Ayutthaya: Just a hop and a skip from Bangkok, Ayutthaya is Thailand’s most visited historical sight, and this former capital of the kingdom doesn’t disappoint; its crooked stupas and broken Buddha images evoke a long-lost era. The main ruins are illuminated after dark, when they are particularly impres- sive. See p. 264. W Arriving at the Dawn of Happiness: Capital of the first true Siamese kingdom, Sukhothai (meaning “the dawn of happiness”) is an inspiring place to visit. Slender stupas pierce the sky and graceful, jointless Buddhas are sculpted in mid-stride. Don’t miss Wat Sri Chum and time your visit to coincide with the Loy Krathong Festival, when the clock seems to wind back almost 800 years. See p. 278. W Exploring the ruins at Chiang Saen: Sprawling beside the banks of the Mekong River, the ancient ruins at Chiang Saen are spread over a vast area, dwarfing the modern town. There has been a settlement here since the 7th century, and in the 13th century it was the birthplace of King Mengrai, who went on to found the Kingdom of Lanna. See p. 351. W Walking round the walls of Chiang Mai: Originally the capital of the Lanna King- dom, Chiang Mai is steeped in over 700 years of history, and a stroll round its ancient city walls, gates, and moat gives a sense of how things used to be. For a bit of an extra challenge, see if you can track down the outer ring of earthen ramparts (kamphaeng din), some parts of which still exist. See p. 288. THE best SMALL-TOWN EXPERIENCES W Looking down over Mae Hong Son from Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu: From this temple on a hill, the entire town of Mae Hong Son, including Jong Kham Lake and the Burmese-style temples on its shores, as well as the main road and the airport, is spread below you. That is, when the town isn’t socked in by cloud; its nickname is muang sam mork (“City of three mists”). See p. 340. W Exploring Thailand’s oldest town: Lamphun, just south of Chiang Mai in the north, claims to be Thailand’s oldest continually inhabited town. Wander round the largely intact city wall, pay your respects to the statue of city founder Queen Chamadhevi, and visit the temple named after her that has a couple of stupas built in the Dharavati period, over 1,000 years ago. See p. 320.

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004_9781118119983-ch01.indd4_9781118119983-ch01.indd 7 33/23/12/23/12 11:57:57 PMPM W Hiding out in Loei: If you want to give tourists the slip, make a bee-line for Loei 1 (p. 362), a sleepy but friendly town in Isan without any big attractions. If you get fed up with nothing to do, get on your bike for a ride along the Mekong Valley to Nong Khai (p. 364) or put on your hiking boots and trek to the top of Phu Kra- dung (p. 362). W Monkeying around in Lopburi: Situated just north of Ayutthaya, Lopburi was a favorite summer residence of former kings, particularly King Narai (r. 1656–88). It’s worth visiting King Narai’s Palace as well as Khmer-inspired Phra Prang Sam Yot, which is a favorite hang-out for the hordes of macaques that live here. See p. 272. W Crossing the bridge over the River Kwai at Kanchanaburi: Before you cross the bridge on a special train to Hellfire Pass, pay your respects at the town’s immacu- lately maintained Allied War Cemetery. You’ll work out from the gravestones that many of those who died building the “Death Railway” were only teenagers. Take a The Best Small-Town Experiences The Best Small-Town tour of the Thailand–Burma Railway Center to learn more about what happened

here. See p. 131. W Kicking back at Prachuap Khiri Khan: It’s getting more and more difficult to find a deserted beach in Thailand, but this little place south of Hua Hin attracts little interest apart from a few Thai weekenders. Wiggle your toes in the sand of local beaches, stuff yourself with seafood, and practice your Thai with the locals. See p. 169. THE BEST OF THAILAND

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