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Insider’s guide to & Phuket Welcome

One of the most-visited destinations in the world, is an explosion of scents, flavours and experiences, bursting with places to see, things to do and to eat. The Thai , Bangkok, is a cosmopolitan metropolis that boasts a fascinating juxtaposition of ancient spired sitting alongside glittering high-rise structures; buzzing night markets set amid modern malls; is also to luxurious resorts, world- and shophouse eateries coexisting with class spa retreats, an incredible food swanky restaurants. scene and a vibrant nightlife. Bangkok serves as a gateway to This handy guide to Bangkok and many other parts of Thailand, including Phuket fleshes out popular places of Phuket, the country’s biggest and interest as well as off-the-beaten-track busiest island. An irresistible draw for gems, and rounds up where to eat, what beach lovers for its azure-blue waters to do, where to get your massage fix, and and powdery stretches of sand, Phuket how to make the most of your visit.

Creative Guide Editor Nick Dent Contributors Ana Kalaw, Jonathan Cook, Nicola Dowse, Cass Knowlton, Top Koaysomboon, Rebecca Russo Designer Robert Polmear Executive Managing Director Michael Rodrigues General Manager Jason Woodards Associate Publisher Phil Bunting Sales Director Elise Bucholtz Editorial Director Nick Dent

Produced by Print & Digital Publishing Pty Ltd’s Custom Guide Division on behalf of Tourism Authority of Thailand

© Print & Digital Publishing Pty Ltd (ABN 50 125 441 812), a company owned by Time Out Group Plc. All rights reserved. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily the views of the publisher. Reproduction in whole or in part is not permitted without the written permission of Print & Digital Publishing Pty Ltd. The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for errors or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. Readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information contained in this publication, which is provided for general use and may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances. Printed by Webstar, Bluestar Group, 83 Derby Street, Silverwater, NSW 2128. www.bspga.com.au.

Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |3 Events calendar Things to do p6 p8

Food & Drink Art & Culture Bangkok p12 p20

Action & Adventure Relax p22 p24

Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |5 Bangkok Events calendar 2019 When should you time your trip to Thailand’s capital? We’ve compiled a list of some of the important festivals and events to help you make the most of your visit

Amazing Thailand Marathon Vertical Marathon Mar 10 New Year’s Eve Feb 3 Runners race vertically up the 1,093 This famous endurance race ends at the steps (61 storeys) of the Banyan Tree Amazing Thai Taste Festival Monument, where runners Bangkok Hotel. This will be the 20th year Jun 7-9 can enjoy Thai food and entertainment. the race has been held. This festival in promotes Thailand’s diverse gastronomy with more Chinese New Year Feb 5 Festival Apr 13-15 than 100 food stalls as well as live music Ring in the Year of the Pig in Yaowaraj, Celebrate the Thai New Year with an epic performances and famous chefs giving Bangkok’s Chinatown. Expect fireworks, street water fight the entire length of cooking demonstrations. Songkran Festival acrobatic dancers and dragon parades Silom Road or Khao San Road. Vendors in the street, and wear red and eat along the way will sell you water pistols Vegetarian Festival lakes and small canals as a symbol of and noodles for prosperity and balloons, as well as plenty of food Sep 28-Oct 7 letting go of bad luck and honouring the and good health in the new year. and drink, to take part in the festivities. Participating businesses hang yellow flags Goddess of Water. and serve a dazzling array of vegetarian dishes. By night, Chinese opera is New Year’s Eve Dec 31 performed in the streets of Chinatown. Hundreds of thousands of people gather everywhere from bars to plazas to party BDMS Bangkok Marathon and ring in the new year. Nov 17 Bangkok’s famous annual marathon involves a course that traverses historical monuments of the city, starting and finishing in front of the Royal Grand . Loy Krathong Nov 13 One of the most beautiful festivals in Bangkok is Loy Krathong, when people release lotus-shaped rafts decorated with BDMS Bangkok Marathon candles, incense and flowers onto rivers, Chinese New Year

6 | Bangkok Events calendar Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |7 Bangkok The & The of the Things to Do This complex of buildings in the heart of Bangkok is the city’s architectural and Bangkok assaults the senses with majestic sights. spiritual treasure. Nearly two kilometres We’ve homed in on the most memorable experiences of with lotus-shaped crenellations enclose what was once a self-contained this exuberant city has to offer city of throne , royal chambers, servants’ quarters, ministries and a prison. Allow at least a two-hour visit; sandals, shorts and bare shoulders are forbidden. The Temple of the Emerald Buddha ( Phra Kaew) is the country’s Wat most important and houses Phra Kaew Morakot, a Buddha the remains of kings II and III. The that has been carved from a single block temple remains a repository of traditional of jade.à www.royalgrandpalace.th/en/home. medicine and nuad paen boran (ancient massage), and you can book a massage for during your visit. à 2 Sanamchai Rd, Pra This vast temple houses the magnificent Nakhon, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 226 0335. golden . Made from brick and gilded plaster, it measures 46 by 15 metres and depicts the posture of Seen on 10-baht coin, this five-spired the Buddha while entering . Wat landmark of around 80 metres in height and the Pho also has 99 , two of which hold has been known as the ‘Temple of Dawn’ ever since the soon-to-be King Wat Suthat and the governess immortalised in The King and landed by the then Wat Magog at sunrise Giant Swing I and a teacher in the Siamese court in October 1767. Wat Arun features a pair Standing in City square, the Giant of King Rama IV. In 2006, the rickety of yaksa (giant) statues, ceramic gables Swing (Sao Ching Cha) was originally timbers were replaced by the structure and 120 Buddha images. Don’t rush erected in 1784 as part of the adjacent you see today. Looming behind the Giant a visit on a canal tour: instead, access Devasathan, a compound of Swing, the temple of Wat Suthat houses the temple via the public ferry from Tha shrines to , Ganesha and . the awe-inducing, eight-metre, 800-year- Tien and wander the temple grounds for In the past a ceremony celebrating the old Phra Sri Sakyamuni Buddha. One as long as you wish.à 34 Arun Amarin Rd, god Shiva would require four brave men of the largest surviving Sukhothai-era , Bangkok. +66 (0)2 891 1149. to swing from this lofty red frame to grab bronzes, this statue contains the ashes at pouches of coins (the ritual ceased in of King Rama VIII at its base. Begun the 1930s due to fatalities). The poles by in 1807, the temple took Clad in Italian Carrara marble, Wat were erected in 1919 to honour the son three reigns to complete. à 268 Dinso Rd, Benchamabophit is a well proportioned of , the contentious Bangkok. +66 (0)2 222 6951. Wat Arun meld of East and West designed by

8 | Bangkok Things to Do Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |9 Now a museum, it exhibits Thompson’s Asian artefacts and looks much like it did when he mysteriously disappeared into ’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. à 6/1 Kasemsan Soi 2, Rama I Rd, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 216 7368. www.jimthompsonhouse.com. Lhong 1919 Lhong 1919 is a sprawling space preserving and promoting ancient Sino-Siamese architecture and culture. Restaurants retain the crumbling walls and murals of the original structures, and craft shops and galleries are also appealing draws. à 248 Rd, Italian architect Hercules Manfredi. Klong San, Bangkok. +66 (0)9 1187 1919. Commissioned in 1899 by Rama V (one www.lhong1919.com. room contains his ashes), the temple features stained-glass windows depicting King Power Mahanakhon scenes from Thai mythology and a replica Skywalk of Thailand’s much-venerated Buddha Set atop Thailand’s tallest building, the image.à Cnr Si Ayutthaya & Nakhon Pathom Rds, Skywalk comprises an observation deck Dusit, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 281 2501. and a rooftop bar that offer 360-degree www.watbencha.com. Wat Benchamabophit views of the City of Angels. Put your courage to the test by walking out to a jeans to a kitten, as well as clothing, Bang Kra Jao glass floor that looks down over 300 Thais are able to seamlessly fuse ceramics, furniture, food and drink, This protected wooded peninsula seems metres. à 74/F-78/F, King Power Mahanakhon, modernity with spiritual beliefs. This gardening accessories, books and like the countryside, yet it’s just 15 114 Narathiwas Rd, Silom, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 677 ability is encapsulated at the frenetic antiques. à Kamphaeng Phet 2 Rd, minutes by road and ferry from the Klong 8721. kingpowermahanakhon.co.th/skywalk/. Hindu shrine to , erected in 1956 Chatuchak, Bangkok. Toey MRT. Explore Bangkok’s ‘green lung’ to appease displaced spirits who were by bicycle. Frequent boats from Wat Klong Experience local transport blamed for mishaps in the building of the Night markets Toey Nok Pier stop at a pierside shop that Bangkok offers a plethora of choices for old Erawan Hotel. Pilgrims gather here to A key part of any trip to Bangkok is a visit rents them out for B100/hr.à Kasemrat Rd, getting around. The iconic Tuk Tuk, a three- make wishes. à Intersection, to the night markets. Sift through piles of Klong Toey, Bangkok. wheeled, motor-propelled conveyance, Ratchadamri Rd, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 254 1234. pre-loved goods and vintage collectibles is the tourist’s favourite way of travel, at one of the Rod Fai markets (a large Jim Thompson’s House but there’s also the elevated BTS rapid Chatuchak Weekend Market market is on Srinakarin Soi 51, while a Jim Thompson was a US architect who transit system and the underground MRT, This 14-hectare market hosts an smaller, more accessible market is on settled in Thailand at the end of World War both of which have stops at major points astonishing 8,000 stalls every Friday Ratchada Road). You can also make the II and started a company selling luxurious in the city. Bangkok also has a network of night and all day Saturday and Sunday. trek to Chang Chui, which features trendy fabrics. In 1959, he adapted six teak klongs (canals), which you can traverse You can find everything from a pair of stalls and artisanal products. houses into a modern living compound. aboard traditional long-tailed boats.

10 | Bangkok Things to Do Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |11 Bangkok teakwood-house setting. Look out for nicely balanced dishes such as Gaeng Mussaman Gai (chicken curry) and Seau Food & Drink Rong Hai (Thai-style grilled rib-eye steak). à 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd, Bangkok. In Bangkok, you can get Michelin-starred excellence +66 (0)2 612 3601. jimthompsonrestaurant.com. and some of the best street food in the world – and 2 Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin sometimes, both at once An extraordinary experience for food lovers, this Michelin-starred restaurant in Siam Kempinski Hotel has a molecular approach to Thai food. Here, red curry is Old City transformed into ice cream and Tom Yum (hot and sour ) comes in jelly form.à Paste Bangkok Siam Kempinski Hotel, 991/9 Rama I Rd, Bangkok. Siam Chidlom, Ploenchit +66 (0)2 162 9000. www.srabuabykiinkiin.com/en. Street Baking Company, or go for more & Lang Suan Chinatown affordable options from the food stalls 3 Siam Square in the sprawling basement-situated Ratchadamri & Located in Bangkok’s most popular food court. Ratchaprasong Sukhumvit à 991/1 Rama I Rd, Bangkok. Chao Phraya shopping district, the Siam Square www.siamparagon.co.th. River complex is a central hub for teenagers. Silom Simple eateries such as Inter and Som 6 CentralWorld Bangkok Tam Nua line the streets, peddling Run your errands at the shops, then Sathorn unpretentious, home-style Thai fare. chomp on goodies from renowned à Rama I Rd, Bangkok. www.siam-square.com. culinary names including Din Tai Fung and Honmono Sushi. Another highlight? 4 Cocktails with stunning views at rooftop You’ll find great food choices at this bar Red Sky in the adjoining Centara Siam and cutting-edge downtown mall such as Grand at CentralWorld Hotel. à 999/9 Ratchadamri/ Thai fusion food from renowned local Rama I Rd, Bangkok. www..co.th. Ratchaprasong restaurants like Kang Ban Phe and Petite Find eats in retail surrounds and the Audrey. The bustling Food Republic, its 7 Ginza Sushi Ichi classiest food courts you’ll ever see fourth-floor food court, is an excellent Sublime sushi awaits at this 14-seat spot to grab international bites.à 989 Michelin-starred restaurant, where Rama I Rd, Bangkok. www.siamcenter.co.th. disciples from the original Tokyo outpost 1 Jim Thompson Restaurant serve traditional cuts of mouth-watering and Wine Bar 5 toro nigiri and heavenly like A slice of old Thailand right in the While you’re enjoying the opulence of venus clam and sea urchin.à Lower Ground heart of the city, Jim Thompson has this luxury mall, you can eat like a king Fl Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ploenchit Rd, Lumpini, silk-upholstered chairs and greenery- at upscale venues like Bankara , Bangkok. +66 (0)2 250 0014. www.ginza-sushiichi. Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin decorated chandeliers in an old Bombyx Jim Thompson and Clinton jp/english/shop/bangkok.html.

12 | Bangkok Food & Drink Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |13 8 Paste Bangkok with foie gras and grilled cod with sake zesty Gaeng (curry) renditions.à 131 This Michelin-starred restaurant delivers and soba risotto.à 25th Fl, Okura Prestige, 57 Sukhumvit Soi 53, Klong Tan Nuea, Bangkok. classic regional Thai food with twists. Top Wireless Rd, Ploenchit, Bangkok. +66 2 687 9000. + 66 (0)2 059 0433. www.r-haan.com. dishes include a lobster salad with fried www.okurabangkok.com/en/elements-book.html. fish skins and edible flowers, belly 20 Canvas buns with chilli jam, and soft-shell crab 15 Gaa At this Michelin-starred dining room with green apple and mango. à3/F, Gaysorn At Michelin-starred Gaa, chef Garima attentive waiters describe the parade of Village, 999 Ploenchit Rd, Lumpini, Bangkok. Arora’s tasting menus reveal a new- fare made from local ingredients.à 113/9- +66 (0)2 656 1003. www.pastebangkok.com. school take on Indo-Siamese cuisine. 10 Sukhumvit Soi 55, Klong Tan Nuea, Bangkok. à 68/4 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit Rd, Lumpini, +66 (0)99 614 1158. www.canvasbangkok.com. Bangkok. +66 91 419 2424. www.gaabkk.com. Chidlom, Ploenchit, 21 Thonglor Lang Suan & Sukhumvit 16 Sorn Soi Thonglor is a stretch of boutiques Expect Michelin-starred dining Michelin-starred Sorn has a tasting menu and some of the city’s most popular rooms and the city’s trendiest eats highlighting refined versions of authentic restaurants, brunch spots and cafés. recipes, such as sour yellow curry with When the sun sets, it’s also the place to Spirit Jim Thompson young mangosteen and gu fish.à 56 converge for bars, clubs and live music. 9 Spirit Jim Thompson Sukhumvit Soi 26, Klong Toey, Bangkok. +66 (0) 99 à Sukhumvit Soi 55, Klong Tan Nuea, Bangkok. The menu offers innovative twists Lumpini, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 252 8001. 081 1119. www.sornfinesouthern.com. on traditional plates, such as duck www.restaurantsavelberg.com. 22 Upstairs at Mikkeller confit with red curry sauce served with 17 Chim by Siam Wisdom Chef/owner Dan Bark shows his chops peaches and curried tomatoes. à 16 Soi 12 Gaggan Iron Chef Thailand alum Thaninthorn with progressive American plates at this Somkid, Lumpini, Bangkok. +66(0)2 017 7268. Gaggan Anand’s two Michelin-starred “Noom” Chantrawan runs this one Michelin-starred dining room.à 26 Ekkamai www.spiritjimthompson.com. restaurant highlights complex flavours Michelin-starred destination, notable Soi 10, Ln 2, Phra Khanong Nuea, Bangkok. +66 (0) in a tasting menu featuring molecular for uncompromising curries. à 66 Soi 91 713 9034. www.upstairs-restaurant.com. 10 Saneh Jaan versions of familiar Indian recipes. Sukhumvit 31, Klong Toey, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 260 Bearer of one Michelin star, Saneh Jaan à 68/1 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit Rd, Lumpini, 7811. www.siamwisdomcuisine.com. unleashes a monsoon of flavours via Bangkok. +66 2 652 1700. eatatgaggan.com. dishes such as Gaeng Ranjuan (shrimp 18 Bo.lan paste-based pork soup) and an aromatic 13 Eathai This Michelin-awarded restaurant offers Tom Kha Gai (chicken ). A grand hall brings together vendors from modernised Royal and draws à 130 Wireless Rd, Lumpini, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 Bangkok’s top street kiosks serving from hyper-local sources including its own 650 9880. www.glasshouseatsindhorn.com/ noodles, spicy northern salads, Pad Thai backyard garden.à 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, restaurant/saneh-jaan. and vegetarian options. à Lower Ground Fl, Klong Tan Nuea, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 260 7811. , 1031 Ploenchit Rd, Bangkok. www.bolan.co.th. 11 Savelberg www.centralembassy.com/store/eathai/. Dutch chef Henk Savelberg matches 19 R-Haan premium ingredients with technical 14 Elements This Michelin-starred venue reinvents the sleight of hand at his Michelin star- This stylish venue lives up to its Michelin traditional samrub (set of shared dishes), awarded, French-inspired restaurant. star with Japanese-influenced New from the flavourful krueng jim options à Oriental Residence Bangkok, 110 Wireless Rd, French cuisine such as Hokkaido scallops (dips with assorted vegetables) to the R-Haan

14 | Bangkok Food & Drink Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |15 Wagyu beef Panang curry with peanuts, Silom & Sathorn shallots and Thai basil.à Metropolitan Chao Phraya These upscale dining rooms will Bangkok, 27 South Sathorn Rd, Sathorn, Bangkok. Riverside require a bit of your time and a bit +66 (0)2 625 3333. www.comohotels.com/en/ Head to the market – and a stop at more from your pocket metropolitanbangkok/dining/nahm. legendary dining institution

26 Saawaan Saawaan translates to ‘heaven’ in Thai 29 and, true to its name, the menu at this Come with an empty stomach during the Michelin-awarded dining room is out day and feast on delicious northeastern of this world, deconstructed food at Som Tam Jae Yupin, Thai-style Sook Siam versions of ubiquitous Thai favourites. folded pancakes at Pa Tim’s Tank Taek à 39/19 Soi Suanplu, Sathorn, Bangkok. Pancake, grilled pork from every fair-themed food hall hosting 77 stalls +66 (0)2 679 3775. www.saawaan.com. other stall, tropical fruits and sweet Thai that represent every region of Thailand. desserts. à Soi Wang Lang, Siriraj, Bangkok Noi. à 299 Charoen Nakhon Soi 5, Charoen Nakhon 27 Sühring Rd, Klong San, Bangkok. www..com. There’s a tangible air of expectation (the 30 Nahm restaurant has two Michelin stars, after all) This tourist-friendly riverside night 32 Rattanakosin for a tasting menu that blends elaborate market has brewpubs, steakhouses and Eatery and Bar 23 Le Du plates with rustic German cooking. à 10 seafood restaurants, as well as a clean, Dining options at the lavish Sala A seamless, Michelin-approved Yen Akat Soi 3, Chong Nonsi, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 well-lit food court hawking favourite Thai Rattanakosin hotel are split between succession of innovative dishes includes 287 1799. restaurantsuhring.com. street eats.à 2194 Charoenkrung Rd, Wat the swish Eatery and Bar, which serves Wagyu beef with pickled cabbage, Phraya Krai, Bangkok. www.asiatiquethailand.com. east-meets-west plates, and the Roof, prawns cooked on a hot stone and pork 28 J’aime by Jean-Michel Lorain a more laidback rooftop hangout tongue and pork blood pudding. à 399/3 This upscale restaurant, recognised by 31 Iconsiam that offers cocktails with Thai flavour Silom Soi 7, Bangrak, Bangkok. +66 (0)92 919 Michelin with one star, combines French This newly opened riverside shopping profiles. Both enjoy panoramic views. à 9969. www.ledubkk.com. cuisine with the shared dining concept complex has seven dining zones and Sala Rattanakosin, 39 Maharat Rd, Rattanakosin typical of Asian meals. à U Sathorn Bangkok, more than 100 restaurants. SookSiam, Island, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 622 1388. www. 24 Mezzaluna 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli, Sathorn, Bangkok. +66 located in the lower ground level, is a salahospitality.com/rattanakosin/en/dine/ Soy-glazed snapper with foie gras or (0)2 119 4899. www.jaime-bangkok.com. eatery-and-bar/. grilled Nagasaki Wagyu beef rib-eye with Perigord truffle, plus views of the Chao 33 Le Normandie Phraya River, add up to an exquisite two- At this legendary two Michelin-starred Michelin-starred experience.à 65th Fl, dining room, dishes such as Oscietra Tower Club at Le Bua, Silom Rd, Bangrak, Bangkok. caviar with sea urchin and potato, and +66 (0)2 624 9555. www.lebua.com. lamb Allaiton with eggplant and black garlic are a perfect match for the full- 25 Nahm bodied Rhône reds on the wine list. The dishes that earned Nahm its à Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave, Michelin star include smoky prawn salad Bangrak, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 659 9000. with tea tree leaves and star fruit, and Saawaan Le Normandie www.mandarinoriental.com.

16 | Bangkok Food & Drink Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |17 stir-fries and sugary Thai desserts. à Klang Mueang Rd, Khon Kaen, Bangkok.

37 Khaosan and its adjacent alleys are a thrilling exhibition of Thai street food. Neon signs promise jok (rice porridge), Khao Ka Moo (pork leg braised in sweet soy and spices), fruit shakes, banana pancakes and Pad Thai. Jay Fai à Khaosan Rd, Talat Yot, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok. El Chiringuito

38 Jay Fai flour, eggs and fresh, plump oysters. Old City Customers queue for Michelin-starred Chinatown à 539 Phlap Phla Chai Rd, Samphanthawong, Go here for street food street food: a bursting-at-the-seams crab Come with an open mind for some of Bangkok. +66 (0)89 773 3133. omelette and mouth-watering Poo Phad the best food in the city Pong Kari (crab curry with scrambled 43 Jek Pui Curry 34 Phraeng Phuthorn eggs). The owner/chef wok-fries orders, Look beyond the plastic stools and the This long, narrow street is densely packed her head wrapped in protective goggles 40 rickety cart and you’ll find reliable, tasty with cheap food stalls. Those in the and a ski cap.à 327 Mahachai Rd, Phra Vendors line Chinatown’s main drag, all fare. All the curry staples and stir-fries the know make a beeline for the Cantonese- Nakhon, Bangkok. +66 (0)92 724 9633. in the shadow of dilapidated shophouse stall specialises in are likely to sell out. style egg noodles at Phraeng Phuthorn structures. Diners take their seats on à 427 Mangkon Rd, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 222 5229. Noodle, while the more daring seek out 39 Methavalai Sorndaeng plastic stools at makeshift tables and the Tom Samong Moo (pig’s brain soup) It opened more than 50 years ago, was tuck into , stir-, 44 Guay Jub Ouan Pochana at Samong Moo Thai Tham. à Phraeng recently awarded one Michelin star and grilled fish, sweetened and This street-food stall is famous for its Phuthorn Rd, , Bangkok. retains the iconic waiters in stuffy white glutinous desserts.à Yaowarat Rd, Chinese-style Guay Jub (rolled rice jackets and 1950s soundtrack.à 78/2 Samphanthawong, Bangkok. noodles), the epitome of rainy-day comfort 35 Ratchadamnoen, Bowonniwet, Phra Nakhon, food with silky rice noodles and pork belly At this throbbing street food centre, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 224 3088. 41 T & K Seafood steeped in piping hot, peppery . sidewalk vendors and shophouse What’s probably the most famous à 408 Yaowarat Rd, Samphanthawong, Bangkok. eateries vie for attention. Follow the seafood joint in Chinatown has generous +66 (0)86 508 9979. smells, the smoke and the locals portions, fresh ingredients, and brisk towards Krua Apsorn for its fluffy crab service. Try the boiled cockles and 45 Soi Nana meat omelette, and Nai Ouan Yentafo, mussels or the grilled fish that’s cooked A lively Chinatown area (not to be confused proud purveyor of Ba Teng (braised pork right on the street. à 49-51 Phadung Dao Rd, with the one along Sukhumvit Road), Soi belly).à Dinso Rd, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok. Samphanthawong, Bangkok. Nana has eateries, bars and cafés. A cool atmosphere pervades Thai-influenced 36 Bang Lampu Market 42 Nai Mong Hoy Tod speakeasy Tep Bar, gin haunt Teens of All the classic Thai street food dishes are This storefront provides some of the Thailand, postmodern lounge Today, represented at this market. Get your fill of best Hoy Tod (oyster omelette) in the city. and tapas spot El Chiringuito.à Soi Nana, steaming Tom Yum (aromatic clear soup), Khaosan Road Here, the springy dish is made with tapioca Pom Prap Sattru Phai, Bangkok.

18 | Bangkok Food & Drink Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |19 Bangkok Museum Siam Learn how Siam became Thailand, and more. The museum uses interactive Art & Culture exercises and tech-driven methods.à 4 Sanam Chai Rd, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 Immerse yourself in Thailand’s unique culture via 225 2777. www.museumsiam.org. these creative things to see and do in the capital The Loom Weaving Workshop A boutique that doubles as a DIY Bangkok Art & Culture SookSiam at Iconsiam workshop offers the chance to learn how Center (BACC) Styled like an ‘indoor floating market’, to make those intricately woven Thai silk Bangkok’s burgeoning contemporary art the 15,000m2 space features a warren bags and scarves. à 3rd Fl, Gateway Ekamai, scene has the home it deserves in BACC, of street food stalls and boutiques that 982/22, Sukhumvit Rd, Phra Khanong, Bangkok. a multi-storey, modernist structure that highlight the cultural specialties of a +66 (0)2 001 5715. www.silkweavinghobby.com. hosts perspective-shifting exhibitions, different regions. It’s truly impossible shows and performances by local to leave empty-handed or with an empty MOCA Bangkok talents alongside works by international stomach. à G/F Iconsiam, 299 Charoennakhon More than 800 works of art call the artists.à 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan, Bangkok. Soi 5, Klong San, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 495 7000. Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) +66 (0)2 214 6630. en.bacc.or.th. www.iconsiam.com. BACC home. The museum displays paintings and installations by local artists The Artist’s House depicting mostly mythological or religious (Baan Silapin) Buddhist themes. The museum itself Situated on the Thonburi side of the river, is an architectural delight, its grounds within a maze of canals, this restored snaking through glass and sliding doors canal house is dedicated to the art of to a manicured garden out back. à 499 puppet performance, with shows at 2pm Kamphaengphet 6 Rd, Ladyao, Chatuchak, Bangkok. Thursday to Tuesday. Apart from quirky, +66 (0)2 016 5666. www.mocabangkok.com. hand-controlled dolls, the teakwood house also features gorgeous handicrafts Thailand Creative and Design and interesting sculptures. Center (TCDC) à www.facebook.com/Baansilapin/. A dedicated entity for art, design and the creative process, the five-storey Silom Thai Cooking School TCDC has a wealth of resources within This experience takes you to a traditional its walls, including a library that houses market to shop for ingredients before about 50,000 design-related books, whisking you back to a classroom for an an innovation centre that affords immersive lesson that will impart the accessibility to a range of Thai-made how-tos of making curry pastes, Tom Yum materials, and an exhibition hall. soup, Thai fried rice and Pad Thai.à 68 à The Grand Postal Building, 1160 Charoenkrung Silom Soi 13, Silom Rd, Bangrak, Bangkok. +66 Rd, Bangrak, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 105 7400. (0)8 4726 5669. www.bangkokthaicooking.com. Museum Siam web.tcdc.or.th/en/.

20 | Bangkok Art & Culture Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |21 Bangkok hands-on experiences, including a glass- bottomed boat, underwater tunnel and shark diving. No experience is necessary Action & Adventure to go scuba diving with the sharks, though if you’re a regular diver you will get a Skip the spas for an adrenaline rush in sweet discount.à Sea Life Bangkok Ocean Thailand’s bustling capital World, B1-B2 Fl, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 687 2000. www.sealifebangkok.com/en. Discover the excitement of FlowRider Go indoor rockclimbing Thailand’s national sport should be For the days when Bangkok’s heat and the first thing on the list for adrenaline one- or two-day courses that will give you humidity become too much you can junkies in Bangkok. Muay Thai fighters confidence in the cars and some serious always head inside for a thrill. Urban use their elbows, knees, feet and shins in bragging rights on your return home. Playground has lots of climbing walls, addition to their fists. If watching a match à www.takiracing.com. a bouldering cave and a 12-metre top is enough thrill for you then head to either rope and lead climbing course. There Rajadamnern or Lumpinee stadiums. Dive with sharks are more than 10,000 handholds in There are also plenty of gyms offering Come face to face with the toothy grin of the gym and routes for climbers of all Thai training.à , a shark in the middle of Bangkok. Sea levels. à Urban Playground, 8 Soi Sukhumvit Rajadamnern Nok Rd, Pompab Satroo pai, Life Bangkok Ocean World is the largest 49, Klong Toey, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 119 7200. Bangkok. rajadamnern.com. à Lumpinee Stadium, aquarium in South East Asia. They offer urbanplaygroundclimbing.com. 6 Ramintra Rd, Anusawaree, Bang Khen, Bangkok. www.lumpineemuaythai.com. Go wakeboarding Taco Lake is Bangkok’s oldest cable wakeboarding centre and welcomes Indoor rockclimbing at Urban Playground anyone with the urge to skate over the surf. No matter your age or skill level, The result is an artificial wave that riders Taco Lake will get you out on the water and can surf on. Wiping out is just as much having a blast. Expect to get wet.à Taco fun as riding. à Flow House, A-Square 120/1 Lake, 175/1 KM 13, Bangna-Trad Rd, Bangphli Yai, Sukhumvit 26, Klong Tan, Klong Toey, Bangkok. Bangphli, Samutprakarn. +66 (0)2 316 7809. +66 (0)2 108 5210. flowhousebangkok.com. www.tacolake.com. Drive a Formula One car Try indoor surfing Dream of zooming around the track like Bangkok’s on-water action continues at Daniel Ricciardo or Lewis Hamilton? Flow House. The main attraction here is The city’s Taki Racing track lets people the FlowRider – a water ride that runs a aged 16 and over get behind the wheel thin sheet of water quickly over a slope. of a Formula One race car. They offer Muay Thai

22 | Bangkok Action & Adventure Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |23 Bangkok on your knots and stretching your limbs. in riotous markets and crowded malls. à 2 Sanamchai Rd, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok. At Bangkok Float Center, you can find +66 (0)2 226 0335. your in a tank pod filled with a high Relax concentration of salt that causes you Rasayana Retreat to float weightlessly. Studies show that Rejuvenation is one of Thailand’s hallmarks as If you’re looking to combine a detox hour-long floats lower stress-causing a destination. Enter the Zen zone at Bangkok’s temples holiday with an introduction to raw food cortisol levels and elevate happiness- beyond piles of salad leaves, consider inducing dopamine and endorphins. to health and wellbeing going to Rasayana Retreat, a wellness à Show DC Entertainment Mall, 99/6-9 Rama centre that advocates natural detox by IX Rd, Bangkok. +66 (0)98 628 9599. www. combining colon hydrotherapy treatments bangkokfloatcenter.com. and herbal massages with organic, uncooked food. At this retreat, you’re Wat Mahathat encouraged to discover true health with One of Bangkok’s oldest temples is also food that makes you feel energised and the centre for Vipassana meditation alive. The centre also has a raw food café in the city. Traditional silent, seated where you can order fresh juices, sessions are practiced, with a focus on and vegetarian dishes.à 57 Soi Prom-mitr, breathing and the realisation that all Sukhumvit Soi 39, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 662 4803. beings are ephemeral. The daily one-hour www.rasayanaretreat.com. guided meditation sessions are a perfect place for beginners to start, although Bangkok Float Center longer periods of study, which include Float tanks are nothing new, but they’re accommodation and food, can also be probably the best way to claim much- arranged by the centre. à 3 Maharat Rd, Panpuri Wellness needed peace and quiet after days spent Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, Bangkok.

Thai massage meets Soi 55, Klong Tan Nua, Wattana, Bangkok. +66 Yoga Elements Japanese onsen (0)2042 8045. letsrelaxspa.com/bangkok/. Though it’s located slap bang in the Some Bangkok spas offer Japanese middle of the capital, Yoga Elements is onsen facilities. The plush Panpuri Wat Po Traditional Thai the ideal space for clearing your over- Wellness offers pampering massages Massage School stimulated mind and sweating and and wellness programs as well as It doesn’t get much more authentic than stretching it out for at least an hour. At segregated onsen baths. Let’s Relax a massage at the Wat Po Traditional this studio, hailed as one of the best yoga Spa & Onsen features mineral bath tubs, School. The venerable studios in the world, there’s a class for sauna, steam, warm and cold room, temple is also the headquarters for the every level of flexibility or focus. Beginners and an extended menu of massage teaching and preservation of traditional can start with the Elements class, which and spa treatments. à Panpuri Wellness, Thai medicine. Treatments here are focuses on the fundamentals, while 12th Fl, , 999 Ploenchit Rd, performed in a large communal space advanced students can join the Flow Lumpini, Bangkok. +66 (0)2 253 8899. www. lined with mattresses on the floor (no and Bliss Vinyasa classes. à 7th Fl, 185 panpuriwellness.com. à Let’s Relax Spa & Onsen, partitions). You forget the lack of privacy Dhammalert Building, Sukhumvit Rd, Bangkok. 5th Fl, Grande Center Point Hotel, 300 Sukhumvit once the trained masseurs start working Yoga Elements +66 (0)2 255 9552. www.yogaelements.com.

24 | Bangkok Relax Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |25 Events calendar Things to do p28 p30

Food & Drink Art & Culture Phuket p34 p42

Action & Adventure Relax p44 p46

Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |27 Phuket this week. The motorcycle exhibition and Patong Carnival Nov 1-3 custom bike show attract big crowds. This three-day festival celebrates the beginning of the high tourist season, and Events calendar 2019 Songkran Festival Apr 13-15 20,000 visitors flock to Patong to enjoy Ring in Thai New Year with an epic street entertainment and sporting events. Time your trip to Thailand’s beach paradise for thrilling water fight, particularly in Bangla Road. festivals and events and make the most of your visit Loy Krathong Nov 11 Phuket Pride Festival Lotus-shaped rafts decorated with Apr 27-29 candles, incense and flowers are One of the best queer festivals in Asia has released onto rivers and lakes. floats, outrageous outfits and plenty of out-and-proud queer people and allies. Laguna Phuket Triathlon Nov 23-24 Laguna Phuket Marathon Asia’s longest running triathlon event Jun 8-9 brings hardy competitors to the Laguna Fitness enthusiasts can sign up to run Phuket resort each year. the marathon, half marathon, 10k or 5k. There is also a relay version of the Phuket King’s Cup Regatta marathon, so you don’t have to run the Dec whole thing yourself. Asia’s biggest sailing race includes more than 90 boats and 2,000 sailors. Cape Panwa Hotel Phuket Raceweek Jul 17-21 New Year’s Eve Dec 31 Phuket King’s Cup Regatta There are four days of world-class yacht Revellers gather everywhere from bars to racing – and four nights of beachside plazas to party and ring in the new year. parties at Cape Panwa Hotel. Wat Chalong Fair Feb 4-10 The Bay Regatta Feb 13-17 This seven-day festival celebrates Wat About 50 yachts sail around Koh Yao and Kathu Cultural Street Chalong, Phuket’s largest and most down the Krabi coastline to Laem Nang, Festival Jul 19-21 visited temple. There are performances then to Chalong Bay for a huge party. Celebrate traditional Chinese culture with and games in the streets, singers and Chinese-influenced food, lion dances, puppeteers, and plenty of food. Thao Thepkasattri-Thao Sri , street stalls and parades. Suntorn Festival Mar 13-15 Chinese New Year and Phuket This festival commemorates the victory Vegetarian Festival Old Town Festival Feb 10-12 of the people of Phuket, led by two local Sep 29-Oct 7 About a third of Phuket’s population women, over the Burmese army. The Over the nine days, ethnic Chinese has Chinese roots, so Chinese New highlight is a big open-air re-enactment. people abstain from meat, alcohol and Year celebrations are very special here. other things in order to purify themselves. Festivities include dragon processions Phuket Bike Week Apr 12-20 On the last day men carry altars of and fireworks, and make sure you wear More than 50,000 visitors and 10,000 the Nine Gods in a procession, red for luck in the new year. motorbikes descend on Phuket during accompanied by fireworks. Vegetarian Festival

28 | Phuket Events calendar Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |29 Phuket Things to Do Make the most of your time on Thailand’s largest island with our guide to the best things to see and do in this slice of heaven

Phuket Elephant Sanctuary At this safe haven and “retirement home” for elephants, they believe that people are not meant to work the gentle giants nearly to death, parade them in city streets or even ride on their backs. Visitors to the sanctuary are instead invited to feed, scrub down and bathe or just generally Bangtao Beach chill with a handful of injured, aged and traumatised elephants rescued from all deserve a mention – but Bangtao high marble Buddha statue can be seen logging camps and circus-like attractions. Beach is the pick for many in the know. from just about anywhere in the south This is one of the most ethical ways to An 8km-long stretch of soft white sand of the island. But climb up the hill in see elephants up close in Phuket. No trick Big Buddha lapped by crystal clear water, Bangtao Karon and you’ll be treated not only to shows, no tourist rides – just elephants Beach is home to some of Phuket’s best- an impressive close-up of the colossal being elephants. You can book for a Islands of Phang Nga Bay regarded restaurants and resorts. religious icon but also stunning views of morning, afternoon or full-day experience. Jump aboard a speed boat and take a the mountains and Andaman sea.à Karon, à www.phuketelephantsanctuary.org. day trip (or two) out to explore some of Bangla Road Amphoe Mueang Phuket, Phuket. +66 (0)81 891 the hundreds of tiny paradise islands. Running from the beach to the centre of 3827. www.phuket-big-buddha.com. Dozens of tour operators offer many Patong is Bangla Road, the notorious different day trips out from Phuket. 400-metre strip that’s the beating heart Wat Chalong If you’ve only got one day, head out of Phuket nightlife. You’ll pass everything The most important and largest Buddhist on a Phang Nga Bay/James Bond Island from beer bars and live music spots (Red temple on Phuket is a grand trip, which takes you to the jaw-dropping Hot, Rock City) to enormous nightclubs housing a splinter of bone from Lord limestone cliffs jutting out of the sea that (Illuzion, Tiger Disco). You probably won’t Buddha himself. The beautiful buildings were made famous by the 007 movie have a civilised night out here; but come and grounds of Wat Chalong are the The Man with the Golden Gun, plus with the right attitude and you’ll definitely perfect place to take a break from the a few other small islands. have a great time. beach. It’s always bristling with local worshippers and curious tourists and Bangtao Beach Big Buddha it can get really crowded here, so make There are dozens of beautiful beaches You can’t go to Phuket and miss the Big an effort to time your visit for as early in Phuket Elephant Sanctuary on Phuket – Mai Khao, and Karon Buddha. Quite literally, as the 45-metre the day as you can if you want time and

30 | Phuket Things to Do Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |31 space to take it all in – or get that perfect Promthep Cape photo for the ’gram. Remember: this is You can’t really visit Phuket and not make a sacred site, so make sure you cover your way up the viewpoint on Promthep up.à Chao Fah Tawan Tok Rd, Chalong, Amphoe Cape for at least one sunset. The most Mueang Phuket, Phuket. +66 (0)76 381 226. southerly point of Phuket is where you www.wat-chalong-phuket.co. can breathe in the most awe-inspiring views on the island. It can get incredibly Monkey Hill busy, but the views more than make up for Forget the tourist-packed, more famous the constant stream of camera-clicking Monkey Beach and take a walk from tourists that arrive in the adjacent car park Phuket Town up Toh Sae Hill for a close every evening. At nightfall, grab a table at encounter with our furry cousins. the nearby Promthep Cape restaurant for Head up the hill and you’ll soon meet a serene sundowner meal.à Rawai, Amphoe macaques looking for food. Bring some Mueang Phuket, Phuket. nuts or fruit along and you’ll make plenty of friends. But remember, these Phuket Old Town aren’t tame monkeys, so don’t get too The picturesque historical quarter of intimate. And if it’s raining, don’t bother Phuket Town is where you’ll find beautiful – monkeys dislike the rain just as much old buildings, museums, boutique shops as we do. A viewing platform near the top and a thriving night market. A world away of the hill affords good views of Phuket from the tourist-packed beaches and Town. à Soi Muensri, Ratsada, Amphoe Mueang night-time hedonism elsewhere in Phuket, Phuket, Phuket. this antiquated area of town is steeped in heritage and small enough to explore Bang Pae Waterfall, Khao on foot. There’s a strong old colonial Phra Thaeo National Park Chinese and Portuguese influence here, Phuket’s largest waterfall attracts plenty Wat Chalong especially along the particularly charming of locals and tourists alike throughout the Soi Rommannee. year. This small but beautiful and tranquil waterfall is surrounded by dense tropical Gibbon Rehabilitation Project jungle in Khao Phra Thaeo National Park Set within the the island’s Khao Phra on Phuket’s sparsely populated eastern Thaeo National Park, this project rescues side. It’s best visited in the wet season, and rehabilitates white-handed gibbons, when the rock pools are full enough to slow lorises and dusky langurs that take a dip in and the lush jungle is at its have been been illegally kept as pets or verdant best. There’s a couple of good traumatised by the photo-prop tourist local restaurants nearby for when you get trade. As much as possible, the animals hungry, but make sure you bring decent are reintroduced back into their natural shoes and plenty of mozzie spray – and habitat after a long healing process. the 200 baht entrance fee to the park. à 104/3 Moo 3 Paklock, Thalang, Bangkok. à Thep Krasatti, Thalang, Phuket. Bang Pae Waterfall White-handed gibbon +66 (0)7 626 0492. www.gibbonproject.org.

32 | Phuket Things to Do Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |33 Phuket 3 Tu Kab Khao Tu Kab Kao is packed most evenings thanks to its local reputation for serving Food & Drink cocktails made with the freshest local fruits and nearly 100 menu items of Savour the extra-hot curries and chilli-inflected dishes authentic Phuket fare. Interesting of Southern Thai cuisine in between sunbathing options include a zingy crab curry, a spiced pork belly stew and a fragrant sessions and pool time shrimp paste with fresh vegetables. à 8 Phang Nga Rd, Phuket Town. +66 (0)76 608 Raya 888. www.facebook.com/tukabkhao/. Phuket Old Town goodness. Equally impressive is the Work up an appetite by walking the 4 Ko Benz Tumis curry, a traditional, rarely found Mai historic streets and lively alleys This is a modest local joint with a limited Peranakan curry made with fresh okra. Khao menu (only seven dishes) and looks that à 93 Dibuk Rd, Phuket Town. +66 (0)76 530 199. you can’t fawn over. However, the food 1 Blue Elephant Phuket is fresh, the cooking is honest and the 6 Thalang Road Housed in a historic Chinese colonial- prices are keen. A battalion of customers Come for the shopping, stay for the food Nai Yang style mansion, this restaurant offers drops in each night for signature dishes – and the ambience. Hip shops and batik oriental spice and bold sophistication. Khao Lao Lued Moo (pork intestines boutiques line Phuket Town’s vibrant Naithon Try next-level dishes like the massaman and pork ) and Khao Tom main avenue, alongside cosy cafés, lamb curry and lime sea bass topped with Haeng (brothless porridge with crispy small restaurants and casual bars. lemongrass and chilli. Recreate them in pork bits and pork entrails), both cooked For a quick snack, try the roti with curry Bang Tao your own kitchen by enrolling in a class according to old family recipes.à 163 at Abdul’s Roti or sample traditional at the restaurant’s very own cooking Patiphat Rd, Phuket Town. Nyonya fare at Kopitiam by Wilai. Further school.à 96 Krabi Rd, Phuket Town. +66 (0)76 down the stretch, you have cake shops 354 355. www.blueelephant.com/phuket/. 5 The Charm and the renowned café that’s called Phuket The Charm’s culinary underpinning Since 1892. à Thalang Rd, Phuket Town. 2 Raya is Thai-, a mix of Laem Hin This family-run restaurant has been Chinese, Malay and local flavours. The 7 Lock Tien popular with locals and visitors for nearly Penang-style fish curry is a bowl of spicy On the corner of Yaowarat and Dibuk Patong 20 years. Properly honest home cooking Roads, right in the centre of Phuket Phuket Old Town served in generous portions dominates, Town’s dazzling Sino-Portuguese and a successful formula of seafood, architecture, you will find Lock Tien, an Chalong curries and spiced meats presented in open-air courtyard market packed with a fuss-free manner has held its appeal local food vendors. Whooshing woks Kata & Karon over the years. Dishes like crab meat and bubbling pots dole out Phuket street with curry and coconut milk and stewed food staples such as Hokkien-style Rawai pork belly hit the spot.à 48 Dibuk Rd, Phuket fried noodles garnished with a fried egg, Town. +66 (0)76 218 155. and spicy with shrimp. Blue Elephant Phuket à Cnr Yaowarat Rd & Dibuk Rd, Phuket Town.

34 | Phuket Food & Drink Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |35 beetroot-cured salmon and lamb shank Patong massaman. à 182 Koktanode Rd, Kata Beach. Sumptuous meals are accompanied +66 (0)76 330 015. www.boathouse-phuket.com. by amazing bay views and the hypnotic lull of the rolling waves 17 Mom Tri’s Kitchen Part gallery, part diner, Mom Tri’s Kitchen has a menu taking inspiration 8 Acqua from both European and Southern Thai This flashy dining room showcases chef cuisine. Ravioli with Phuket lobster is a Alessandro Frau’s vision of elevated highlight. à Villa Royale Phuket Resort and Spa, Italian fare, with confident staples such Acqua Mom’s Tri Kitchen 12 Kata Noi Rd, Kata Noi Beach. +66 (0)76 333 as woodfired pizza and yellow fin tuna 568. momtriphuket.com/momtris-kitchen. carpaccio. à 324/15 Prabaramee Rd, Kalim Prabaramee Rd, Patong. +66 (0)63 078 5887. Bay, Patong. +66 (0)76 618 127. www.baanrimpa.com/seaside-restaurant. Kata & Karon 18 Kampong Kata Hill www.acquarestaurantphuket.com. Find upscale beachside dining and Decked out with dragons, sea serpents, 11 Kaab Gluay unusual interiors religious icons and red Chinese lanterns, 9 Baan Rim Pa Patong This affordable eatery offers a heartfelt this restaurant is impressive to look at, Expertly prepared renditions of Royal welcome. Staples such as Pad Thai, Tom and the menu covers the gamut of Thai Thai cuisine is one reason to visit; Yum Goong (spicy soup with shrimp), 14 Kata Rocks staples.à 4 Karon Rd, Kata Beach. +66 (0)7 magnificent views overlooking Patong stir fries and curries are lightly spiced This striking waterfront restaurant is set 633 0103. www.facebook.com/kampongkatahill. Bay is another.à 223 Prabaramee Rd, Patong. to appease western palates.à 58/3 within the ultra-luxe Kata Rocks resort. +66 (0)93 584 5563. www.baanrimpa.com. Prabaramee Rd, Patong. +66 (0)81 787 7830. Fuss-free seafood fare like steamed sea 19 Sabai Corner bass and grilled lobster are highlights The food is as authentic as the smiles 10 Joe’s Downstairs 12 Pan Yaah Thai and there are hearty dishes of lamb and of the waitstaff at this secluded spot Located right underneath Baan Rim Pa, Beautiful views of Patong Bay are Wagyu steak.à 186/22 Kok Tanode Rd, Kata bounded by the jungle and the sea. Joe’s Downstairs appeals to lethargic the backdrop to niftily executed Thai- Beach. +66 (0)76 370 777. www.katarocks.com. Enjoy flavour-rich curries, smoky rice holiday makers with all-white tropical influenced seafood dishes such as Hor and noodle dishes and woodfired pizza. furniture, views, small tapas-style plates Mok Kanom Kro (fish baked in clay pot) 15 Red Duck à Soi Laem Mum Nai 2, Kata Noi Beach. and modern continental fare.à 223/3 and Goong Ob Woonsen (rice vermicelli The food here is more cafeteria than +66 (0)89 875 5525. and prawn casserole).à 249 Prabaramee cuisine, but this cosy eatery has carved Rd, Patong. +66 (0)76 290 450. out a niche of its own for Thai classics cooked to perfection from the freshest 13 Banzaan Fresh Market locally sourced ingredients.à 88/3 The main floor of this two-storey market Khoktanod Rd, Kata Beach. +66 (0)84 850 2929. is dedicated to fresh meats and seafood www.facebook.com/redduckrestaurant. (lobsters are the cheapest in town), flowers and fresh produce. Choose your 16 The Boathouse preferred lunch, and it will be weighed, A large open-air restaurant on the edge wrapped and packed for you to take to of Kata Beach, the Boathouse features the upstairs restaurant for cooking. modern Pan-Asian dishes with a strong Baan Rim Pa Patong à 181 Rat-U-Thit 200 Pee Rd, Patong. Southern Thai inflection, including Kata Rocks

36 | Phuket Food & Drink Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |37 22 Kan Eang@Pier scrumptious fare amid an expanse of Rawai & Chalong This spacious waterfront restaurant Laem Hin tropical sea. Four moored restaurants Eat seafood straight from the has friendly service and seafood pulled Let the seafood marathon begin – Kruvit Raft, Bang Mud, Kru Suwit and source, or in striking settings straight off the boat. It draws diners with Black Crab – float side-by-side on the bordered on all sides by nature pocket-friendly prices and seafood grilled water, a five-minute longtail boat ride using coconut husks instead of the usual 25 Laem Hin Seafood from Laem Hin Beach. As expected charcoal. à 44/1 Moo 5, Wiset Rd, Chalong. Restaurant seafood features strongly, and each +66 (0)83 173 1187. www.kaneang-pier.com. Cheap, spankingly fresh underwater restaurant touts its own signature bounty earns raves at this simple seaside dishes: Yum Goong Siap, a salad 23 Mor Mu Dong eatery. Have your fill of Southern Thai made with smoked, dried shrimp, is a This rustic, out-of-the-way restaurant seafood fare like Koong Pad Ped Sator must at Kruvit Raft; steamed mantis serves Thai food that is made with care (stir-fried red curry with prawns and stink shrimps and horseshoe crab eggs but no affectation, and seasoned for beans) and Pla Pad Cha (spicy fish in thai are delicacies served at Kru Suwit; those who love their chillies and spices. herbs). à 90/11 Moo 7, Soi Baan Leam Hin, steamed squid with lemon keep diners Dishes include sea bass in plum sauce or Thepkrasattri Rd, Koh Kaew. +66 (0)76 373 349. coming back for more at Bang Mud, not stir-fried prawns in lime.à 9/4 Thanon Chao to mention a Halal Thai accreditation; Fah Tawan Tok, Chalong. +66 (0)88 766 1634. 26 Floating restaurants and soft-shell crab served with Chilean The effort needed to get to these chardonnay are the more elevated Rock Salt 24 Rock Salt seafood restaurants is well repaid by options at Black Crab. All this, plus a In a stunning beachside setting in the breezy, atmospheric setting and warm 20 Rawai Seafood Market Nai Harn resort, Rock Salt has a menu service, make for a dining experience Seafood can be pricey in Phuket, but not created by chef de cuisine David Attwater that’s hard to forget. àTake the boat from at this locals’ haunt at the fishermen’s combining Southern Thai dishes with Laem Hin Pier. village of Rawai, also known as the Sea contemporary European cuisine. Gypsies Fish Market. Choose what you Expect to find daily-caught fish and 27 Koko want from tropical fish, giant prawns, Fine de Claire oysters freshly delivered A fresh take on Japanese cuisine, lobsters and live crabs, and then head to from France.à The Nai Harn, 23/3 Moo 1, Viset this progressive spot impresses one of the restaurants across the street Rd, Nai Harn, Rawai. +66 (0)7 638 0200. gastrophiles with exciting regional to have it cooked. à Wiset Rd, Rawai Beach. www.thenaiharn.com/dining/rock-salt. cooking served with a flourish. Dishes like Akami tuna tartare with feta 21 Baan Noy cheese, capers and mint and Victoria Thai classics and a smattering of lamb tenderloin with Saikyo miso and European staples are cooked to gorgonzola take honest pleasure in perfection at this little tucked-away what a handful of premium ingredients restaurant. The owners, a Thai woman can accomplish, and don’t take and a German gent, are lovely, and Baan for granted time-honoured cooking Noy is an experience that leaves you with techniques. à The Village Coconut Island a belly bursting with food and a heart (a free water taxi leaves from Laem Hin Pier in full of warmth. à 58/12, Moo 10, Patak Rd, Phuket to the Village Coconut Island every 30 Chalong. +66 82 802 0162. minutes). +66 (0)81 326 2703. thevillage- www.baannoyrestaurant.com. Rawai Seafood Market Koko coconutisland.com/dining/#koko.

38 | Phuket Food & Drink Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |39 30 Sea Almond Chilled Restaurant and Bar Bang Tao & Naithon Sea Almond is right on Nai Yang Beach, Get mind-blowing cuisine in the where the water almost laps at the tables. most prestigious part of the island The menu ranges from fish grilled in the traditional southern Thai way to sweet steamed crustaceans swimming in tasty 33 Pru curry.à 90/10 Moo 5, Nai Yang Beach Rd, Nai Prepare to dine on an elevated plane at Yang, Sakhu, Thalang. +66 (0)86 398 2005. this one Michelin-starred destination (the only restaurant in Phuket to receive 31 Kin Dee such as accolade). Chef Jim Ophorst’s Ruen Thai Black Ginger Nestled in a magical setting atop dishes rely on premium local produce. mangrove swamps, this is one of the Thai crabmeat omelette is made with +66 (0)76 324 333. www.aman.com/resorts/ island’s destination eateries. The menu eggs from chickens that cluck about the amanpuri/nama-restaurant. Nai Yang & Mai Khao is a love letter to Southern Thai cuisine, resort grounds, and vegetables, herbs, Here’s where every meal comes prepared by a former five-star-hotel and edible flowers are picked from 35 Siam Supper Club with a gorgeous view chef.à Hin Look Diew Village, Mai Khao. their in-house farm.à Trisara, 60/1 Moo 6, Simple yet appetising classic American +66 76 328 293. www.kindeerestaurant.com. Srisoonthorn Rd, Cherngtalay. +66 (0)76 310 100. fare, including exquisitely tender steaks prurestaurant.com. and a highly praised cheesecake, makes 28 Black Ginger 32 Sala Phuket this busy spot on a Lagoon Road a local The restaurant stands on stilts in the This open-air restaurant by the beach treasure. à 36-40 Lagoon Rd, Cherngtalay. middle of a lagoon, accessible only by and under the shade of the casuarina +66 (0)76 270 936. www.siamsupperclub.com. water raft. It’s a romantic setting for trees offers magnificent views of Mai Panang curry and Pak Miang (stir-fried Khao Beach and the sunset. Produce 36 Ruen Thai miang leaves) paired with a chilled white is sourced every morning from the The full spectrum of Royal Thai cuisine, or a full-bodied red from the restaurant’s fishermen to create pan-Asian dishes. including spicy salads, satays and grilled sizeable wine selection. àThe Slate Phuket, à Sala Phuket Resort and Spa, 333 Moo 3, Mai meats, is judiciously served at Dusit 116 Moo 1, Nai Yang. +66 (0)76 327 006. Khao. +66 (0)76 338 888. www.salahospitality. Thani Laguna Phuket’s jewel restaurant. www.theslatephuket.com/en/black-ginger. com/phuket/en/phuket-wine-and-dine. à Dusit Thani Laguna Phuket, 390 Srisoontorn, Cherngtalay. +66 (0)80 385 9062. www.dusit.com/ 29 La Sala dusitthani/lagunaphuket/dining/ruen-thai/. Few places in Mai Khao do breakfast, Pru lunch and dinner, but this all-day 37 Suay Cherngtalay restaurant at Anantara Mai Khao Phuket 34 Nama Expect inventive dishes for seafood does. Breakfast is a serene affair with In a secluded cove of Pansea Beach, lovers at this respected restaurant. Main international buffet choices. At night, dim Japanese chefs assiduously slice, plate courses such as tandoori chicken are lights cast a romantic glow on delicately and create as if the fate of the island expertly cooked, and a side of luxurious handled Italian and Thai fare.à Anantara depended on the freshness of their nigiri Thai-style foie gras bites with tamarind Mai Khao Phuket Villas, 888 Moo 3, Mai Khao, and the grilled perfection of their Wagyu dip is ridiculously good. à Baan Wana Park, Thalang. +66 (0)76 336 100. www.anantara.com/ sirloin served with moshio (seaweed 177/99 Moo 4, Srisuntorn. www.suayrestaurant. en/mai-khao-phuket/restaurants/la-sala. salt).à Amanpuri, Pansea Beach, Cherngtalay. com/cherngtalay-branch.

40 | Phuket Food & Drink Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |41 Phuket The Chalong Bay Rum Distillery eschews the use of molasses in making the spirit, instead employing the traditional French- Art & Culture Caribbean method of using sugarcane juice. The distillery buys its sugarcane Gain insights into the Phuket way of life at some of the from sustainable local farms. à14/2 Moo island’s cultural attractions 2, Palai Soi 2, Chalong. +66 (0)93 575 1119. www.chalongbayrum.com. Phuket Art Village Pop-up street markets Home to a collection of quirky art studios There are markets all over Phuket set around a massive banyan tree, the selling local art, traditional tidbits and Phuket Art Village welcomes visitors handicrafts worth a visit to get an insight who want to immerse in local art amid into the local Phuketian culture. The hippie island vibes. It’s a place where Indy Market on Dibuk Road (Thursday both adults and kids are entertained with and Friday) is a great way to imbibe the Thai shadow puppetry, where plastic is Thai hipster scene and browse through upcycled into art installations, and where handmade jewellery, vintage clothes and the sound of a chisel whittling away at Chalong Bay Distillery Street art around Old Phuket Town crafts. Yaowarat Road’s funky Chillva wood is part of the background noise. Market (Thursday to Saturday) is a bit à28/68 Soi Naya 2, Rawai. +66 (0)84 946 2171. more organised, featuring eateries and bars in revamped shipping containers, Peranakan Phuket Museum and a flea market on weekends. For This compact museum introduces visitors the real deal, visit Talaad Yai (Phuket to the island’s unique Peranakan (Malay- Walking Street), a weekend market on Chinese) heritage. Engaging exhibitions Thalang Road where you can shop for include a recreation of a typical affluent artsy knick-knacks, vintage collectibles, Peranakan household, vibrant costumes and local snacks. worn by the Phuketians of old, and a virtual bicycle tour through Phuket Town Phuket Old Town street art as it was in late 1800s. Boutiques and a The closest thing Phuket would have to café painted in Peranakan day-glo colours a contemporary art museum is the Old offer souvenir items and refreshments. Town and its streets. The area’s Sino- à124/1 Moo 1 Thep Kasattri Rd, Thalang. Portuguese rowhouses serve as a canvas +66 76 313 556. peranakanphuketmuseum.com. for some of Thailand’s best urban artists, including Alex Face, Mue Bon and Rukkit. Chalong Bay Rum Distillery The cheery murals feature a central focus When a young French couple discovered on food – most of them were created that Thailand is the fourth-biggest as part of an initiative that celebrated producer of sugarcane they decided to Phuket’s status as a UNESCO City of start producing their own rum. Phuket Old Town Gastronomy in 2016.

42 | Phuket Art & Culture Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |43 Phuket can be catered for and you can buy all of the equipment you need on site. à Patong Boxing Stadium, 2/59 Sai Nam Yen Rd, Patong Action & Adventure Beach, Kathu, Phuket. +66 (0)81 737 7193. www.boxingstadiumpatong.com. Adventure seekers take note: there’s plenty of fun to be had outdoors in Phuket Get on your bike There are plenty of bike tours to be done along sandy Mai Khao Beach, down quiet country roads or past huge coconut and pineapple plantations. Whether you’re up for a full- or half-day tour, it’s a great way to Cycling on Mai Khao Beach see the island and skip the crowds. Don’t worry if your legs aren’t up to scratch – Zipline around a rainforest these tours take things pretty easy. Adventure lovers can climb, swing, fly, à www.phuket.com/tours/biking-tours/. soar and walk through beautiful natural rainforest at zipline adventure parks Kayak around Phang Nga Bay around the island including Jungle Xtrem On this kayaking tour you’ll get to weave Adventures Park, World and around giant stalactites, caves and Flying Hanuman. Punters can traverse limestone cliffs. The inflatable kayaks from tree to tree via suspended bridges, can also venture into tidal lagoons or walkways, nets and other fun challenges. what the locals call ‘hong’, which are Each person is provided a harness, a only accessible at certain tides when double lanyard, two carabiners, one sling the vessels can enter through cave Kayaking around Phang Nga Bay and a pulley as well as proper training openings that are otherwise underwater. to keep them safe. Expect glimpses of An experienced guide does the paddling Go deep spectacular scenery as you go. for you, so your hands are free to snap The submerged reefs of East Asia are pictures of the dramatic scenery. among the prettiest in the world and Watch (or perform) some à www.phuket.com/island/seacanoe.htm. teeming with life. There’s no better way authentic Muay Thai to see them than a close-up dive. Even if At Patong Boxing Stadium the fights are Sail away into the sunset you’ve never dived before, you’ll have a very real and hugely exciting, and the A host of yacht and sailboat operators blast exploring small caves, reefs, wrecks seats are packed with locals cheering will let you rent a crewed, barefoot, motor and coral gardens. Phuket has numerous their favourite fighters to victory. This is yacht or sailboat to suit your needs. Many diving instructors on hand at hotels, the place to go for the real deal. If you are locations around the coast have seasonal hostels and beach resorts ready to take game to get in the ring yourself there are anchorages but at Ao Po Grand Marina groups and private tours out. November several places you can get an introductory in north Phuket, there’s 24-hour access to April is the best time for diving in lesson, such as Tiger Muay Thai Training and zero tide restrictions. It’s also the Phuket. If snorkelling’s more your thing, Camp, Sinbi Muay Thai and Sumalee gateway to the gorgeous Phang Nga Bay. head to Nai Harn beach. Rainforest ziplining Boxing Gym. Boxers of all levels of ability à www.phuket.com/sailing/around-phuket.htm.

44 | Phuket Action & Adventure Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |45 Phuket Phuket Cleanse Come here for a cleansing program surrounded by tropical greenery. Relax A physiotherapist and fitness trainer will tailor a program to suit your needs, Close your eyes, open your mind and find your ‘om’ and a nutritionist will design a customised away from home in one of the best islands in the world cleansing meal plan. à49/105 Moo 1, Soi Nanachat, Rawai. +66 (0)82 424 4976. phuketcleanse.com. Dharana Phuket Meditation Center Those who are looking for more than Banyan Tree Phuket Spa a standard meditation class may want to consider taking on the four-day program at this wellness retreat. Life enhancement mentors can teach you how to manage stress, deal with anxiety and grief, and cultivate happiness. à69/509, Chaofah Soi 5, Chalong. +66 (0)87 279 7655. phuket-meditation.com. Island Yoga Yoga workshops suitable for every level Wellness by Como Shambhala are available year-round at this retreat on the magical island of Koh Yao Noi. Enjoy Banyan Tree Phuket Spa Wellness by Como Shambhala daily yoga classes, guided meditation Dharana Phuket Meditation Center The treatments are as stylish as the at Como Point Yamu sessions and the company of like-minded beautifully designed spa, where regaining This transformative holistic spa, backed individuals in idyllic surrounds.à4/10 your emotional balance involves by one of the most renowned wellness Moo 4 Baan Tha, Koh Yao Noi. +66 (0)6 5771 2550. therapies that emphasise a ‘high-touch, centres in the world, offers a calming and thailandyogaretreats.com. low-tech’ approach and the use of natural cocooning atmosphere, exquisite plant- herbs and spices. You can choose to just based meals and seriously gifted healers Amatara Wellness Spa go for one of their holistic packages or, that can guide you to your journey to Amatara has holistic programs combining for a fully immersive experience, stay in physical well-being and mental quietude. gorgeous accommodation and nutritious a Banyan Tree Spa Sanctuary Villa and Balance body and emotions by combining food with muscle-melting massages that indulge in nutritious fare and unlimited meditative yoga and Pilates sessions with assist the natural healing power of the body. spa treatments. àBanyan Tree Spa Phuket, relaxing treatments, and early-morning Programs include the spa’s signature Thai 33 Moo 4, Srisoonthorn Rd, Cherngtalay. biking or walking tours.àComo Point Yamu, Hammam Experience. à84 Moo 8 Sakdidej +66 (0)76 372 400. www.banyantree.com/en/ 225 Moo 7, Paklok, Talang. +66 (0)76 360 133. Rd, Vichit, Cape Panwa, Phuket. +66 (0)7 631 8888. thailand/spa-sanctuary-phuket. www.comohotels.com/en/pointyamu/wellness. www.amataraphuket.com/wellness-programs/. Island Yoga

46 | Phuket Relax Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |47 Thailand operate direct flights from Australia to transit system, serving 35 stations. Trains Bangkok; Jetstar flies to Bangkok from arrive every 5-7 minutes, and connect to Melbourne and to Phuket from Sydney. the BTS Skytrain. There are two elevated Travel essentials Other carriers that provide connections BTS Skytrain lines: the running from Australia include Airlines, west to south, and the Malaysian Airlines, Scoot and AirAsia. running north to east. A train arrives every 3-6 minutes. Tickets for the MRT and BTS Getting around Thailand Skytain are available from machines at By Air: With more than 20 domestic stations. www.transitbangkok.com. airports in major cities, Thailand is well connected by air. Thai Airways By Bus: Long-distance buses reach (www.thaiairways.com), Bangkok Airways where trains don’t. The ordinary buses (www.bangkokair.com) and budget are suitable for short trips, as they have airlines Nok Air (www.nokair.com), Air Asia no air-conditioning and make virtually (www.airasia.com) and Orient Thai Airlines every stop along the way. Superior buses (www.flyorientthai.com) all run services range from a simple air-conditioned type between Bangkok and Phuket. to comfortable tour buses with reclining seats and hostesses serving drinks. By Train: All major rail lines originate in Always reserve your tickets in advance Bangkok, at Hua Lamphong, and cover the when travelling during major holidays. four regions of Thailand. When travelling during major festivals and holidays, always By Car: Major international brands purchase your tickets well in advance. provide rental services in popular tourist In Bangkok, the MRT is the city’s rapid cities. Local rental brands are often less expensive and have more flexible rental policies. Be warned, though, that driving When to go Tourist visas in Bangkok is not for the faint hearted. The best time to visit Thailand is Tourists from many countries, including between November and February, when Australia, New Zealand, the US, UK, Electricity and plugs the climate is relatively cool and dry Germany, France and Singapore, do not Voltage is 220 Volts with either two (25-32°C). Some of the most colourful require a visa when entering Thailand flat blades (NEMA 1-15 or JIS C 8303) festivals fall in December. The drawback and can stay for 30 days. Thai authority or round two-pin plugs (Europlug CEE for arriving during this period is that requires at least six months validity 7/16). You can buy an adapter at popular destinations are crowded, and remaining on the passport. Check most department stores. hotel rooms are in short supply. Arriving canberra.thaiembassy.org. between March and May will put you Time zone right through Thailand’s summer, when Getting into Thailand UTC/GMT +7 hours. temperatures can climb above 40°C. The Suvarnabhumi International Airport in monsoon season (June-September) is Bangkok is the main air gateway into Telephone services usually very wet and humid, and national Thailand. Thai Airways, Qantas and The international dialing code for Thailand parks and waterfalls are at their best. Emirates (till the end of May 2019) Suvarnabhumi International Airport is 66 and you must drop the 0 from the

48 | Thailand Travel essentials Insider’s guide to Bangkok & Phuket |49 area code. For directory assistance in Pubs and bars open at different times but the greater Bangkok Metropolitan area, close at 1am, except those located in the dial 13. For directory assistance in the designated entertainment zones. MyanmaJohorr Causeway Sembawang Malaysia provincial areas, dial 183. For operator- (Burma) assisted long distance calls, dial 101 for Language Woodlands domestic calls, 100 for international calls. Thai is the official language. English is Sungei Buloh widely understood and spoken in most Mandai Mobile phones tourist areas. Both Thai and English are Using your mobile phone in Thailand found on all road signs, BTS Skytrain and Singapore Zoo Pulau Ubin shouldn’t be a problem if you arrange MRT Subway stations and some buses. Night Safari for international roaming in your home Lim Chu Kang & River Safari country. If you will be staying in Thailand Emergency Phone Numbers for a while, it is worth considering Police: 191 Bukit Timah purchasing a SIM card with a prepaid Fire: 199 Nature Reserve option. Cards to upload credit are Ambulance: 1554 Thailand Ang Mo Kio available from convenience stores. Bumrungrad International Bangkok (emergency): +66 (0)2 667 2999 Business hours Samitivej Sukhumvit Bangkok Ambulance Tuas Second Link Bangkok Changi Shopping malls usually open around Hotline: +66 (0)2 712 7007 Jurong Singapore Tampines 10am and close between 8pm and 10pm. Bangkok Hospital emergency room: Bishan Banks open from 9am-3.30pm (Mon-Fri), +66 (0)2 310 3102 South China Sea except those located inside shopping Bangkok Hospital Phuket: MacRitchie Toa Payoh malls, which open and close a bit later. +66 (0)7 625 4425 Reservoir Jurong Bird Park Andaman Sea Little Dempsey Hill Kampong Glam Katong & JooVi Chiaetnat m Orchard Road Bras Basah & Bugis Chinatown Queenstown Tiong Bahru Marina Bay Jurong Island Gulf of Labrador Park Thailand Phuket Marina Bay Singapore Cruise Centre Cruise Centre Sentosa

06km 50 | Thailand Travel essentials Malaysia From the buzzing capital Bangkok, a city of food, festivals, temples and , to the island paradise that is Phuket, Thailand is one of the most dazzling holiday destinations in the world. Discover its secrets with Time Out’s Insider’s Guide.