Quick Soups Start Here Pantry Items, Match Them with Ingredi- Ents They Usually Have on Hand and Devise Recipes That Take Less Than 30 Minutes to Prepare

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F4 Wednesday, February 20, 2008 MG PG VA blank line of text The Washington Post

Experienced cooks know that a well-stocked kitchen can yield dinner on most weeknights. That is espe- cially true when it comes to soups. We asked some of our favorite cooks to start with their three favorite Quick Soups Start Here pantry items, match them with ingredients they usually have on hand and devise recipes that take less than 30 minutes to prepare. Each requires a large soup pot or Dutch oven. Pantry/fridge/freezer items are marked in bold. Besides the 12 recipes you see here, our contributors came up with 24 others, for a total of 36 quick soups. That should be more than enough to see you through the rest of whatever cold weather we’re having. You can find all 36 recipes on the Food & Dining home page at washingtonpost.com, along with a printable pantry list of all the ingredients used. KIM O’DONNEL writes A Mighty Appetite, washingtonpost.com’s food blog. Her “Kitchen Witch” column appears in the Atlanta newsweekly Creative Loafing. — Bonnie S. Benwick

SPECIAL INGREDIENTS SHE LIKES TO HAVE ON HAND: cumin seeds (toasted), chipotle en adobo, toasted pumpkin seeds. ISTOCKPHOTO

PANTRY FAVORITE CANNED TOMATOES PANTRY FAVORITE SWEET POTATOES PANTRY FAVORITE CANNED WHITE BEANS SOUP 1 Tomato (Sorta) SOUP 1 Sweet Potato-Apple Puree SOUP 1 Bean ’n’ Bacon Mediterranean Style 2 to 3 servings 2 to 3 servings 2 to 3 servings Peel and dice (or finely chop) 2 large Dice a few thick strips of bacon and cook in Heat a few tablespoons vegetable oil or ol- sweet potatoes. Place in the pot with a the pot with at least 1 tablespoon vegetable 1 ive oil in the pot. Add ⁄2 diced medium on- cleaned, chopped leek or 1 medium onion, oil or olive oil (to keep from sticking) until ion, a few chopped garlic cloves, a diced quartered, plus a peeled and seeded ap- crisp. Remove and drain on a paper towel. 1 medium carrot and/or ⁄2 diced red bell pep- ple, quartered, and a cinnamon stick. Add To deglaze, add a few splashes of white 1 per and ⁄2 seeded, diced habañero chili pep- enough liquid (water or chicken or vegeta- wine or broth, and use a wooden spoon to per. Cook for about 5 minutes, until the ble broth) to barely cover the ingredients. scrape up any bits stuck to the bottom. 1 onions are translucent. Add a splash of Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and Add ⁄2 diced medium onion, 1 diced celery rib white wine or a jigger of bourbon. Let the al- O’Donnel’s cook, with the mixture barely bubbling, and 3 finely chopped garlic cloves. Stir to cohol cook off (2 to 3 minutes), then add preferred until the sweet potatoes are fork-tender. combine and add two 15-ounce cans of 28 ounces canned tomatoes (plus juices), a brand. Use a blender or immersion blender to drained and rinsed white beans. Add a sprig bay leaf and a few sprigs of thyme. Bring to puree until smooth. Season to taste with of rosemary, if possible. Add water or broth, PHOTOS BY JULIA EWAN — THE WASHINGTON POST ASSOCIATED PRESS a boil, then reduce the heat and cover, allowing the tomatoes to break salt and black pepper. Add 1 chipotle chili en barely covering the ingredients. Bring to a boil, then cook, with the mixture 1 down. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Discard the herbs. adobo, ⁄2 teaspoon cayenne pepper or a few glugs of hot pepper sauce. barely bubbling. (For a thicker broth, allow liquid to reduce.) Discard the rosemary. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. GARNISH: with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and a few toasted baguette GARNISH: with toasted walnuts or pecans, or a drizzle of honey and a lime wedge. slices rubbed with a garlic clove. A hint of lemon zest or some chopped an- This soup goes great with beer and a hunk of crusty bread for dipping. GARNISH: with the crisped bacon, plus chopped fresh parsley, grated lemon chovies add a kick. zest and a sprinkling of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. See SOUP 2 Sweet Potato Hummus and SOUP 3 Sweet Potato-Coco Loco online at See SOUP 2 Tomato With an Indian Twist and SOUP 3 Tomato With a Mexican Twist on- www.washingtonpost.com/food. See SOUP 2 White Bean and Roasted Pepper Puree and SOUP 3 White Beans and line at www.washingtonpost.com/food. Greens online at www.washingtonpost.com/food.

ALIZA GREEN, a Philadelphia-based food writer, chef and culinary instructor, is the author of “Starting With Ingredients” (Running Press, 2006). SPECIAL INGREDIENTS SHE LIKES TO HAVE ON HAND: Korean red pepper flakes, dried oregano on the branch, Japanese curry powder.

PANTRY FAVORITE CANNED BLACK BEANS PANTRY FAVORITE FROZEN WHITE CORN KERNELS PANTRY FAVORITE DRIED MUSHROOMS SOUP 1 Velvety Black Bean Puree SOUP 1 Zucchini, Corn SOUP 1 Italian Clam and Porcini Mushroom*

With Sherry and Tomato 1 Makes 2 ⁄2 quarts, about 8 servings 1 Makes 2 ⁄2 quarts, Makes about 1 gallon, 1 1 about 8 servings about 12 servings Soak ⁄2 cup (about ⁄2 ounce) dried porcini mushrooms in just-boiled water to cover until softened, about 1 Heat 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in Grate 1 ⁄2 pounds (3 medium) 10 minutes. Lay a dampened paper towel in a the pot. Add 1 cut-up medium onion, 1 zucchini and/or yellow squash and sieve set over a bowl. Scoop out the soaked porci- cut-up carrot and 1 sliced celery rib; 1 red onion. Combine the vegeta- ni, chop into small bits and set aside. Strain the cook until soft. Add three 15-ounce bles with 2 small (8-ounce) mushroom “liquor” through the paper towel to re- cans black beans with their juices, 1 cans cream-style corn, 1 package move grit and set it aside. 1 quart chicken broth and ⁄2 cup crum- frozen white corn kernels rinsed to Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons unsalted butter; add bled precooked bacon or 1 table- remove the frost, 2 teaspoons 1 diced red onion, 1 teaspoon dried thyme and 2 spoon smoked Spanish paprika. Add the dried tarragon, one 28-ounce can crushed garlic cloves; cook until soft. Stir in 2 table- Green prefers dried porcini juice and finely grated zest of 1 diced tomatoes with the juices, spoons flour and cook for 2 to 3 minutes to get rid mushrooms from Europe and the lemon, a few scrapings of nutmeg and/ one 12-ounce can V-8 Juice and 1 of the raw-flour taste. Add two 10-ounce cans dried shiitakes (whole), or mace, and salt and black pepper. quart chicken or vegetable broth; chopped clams or whole baby clams with the juic- available in Asian markets. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes. Puree in a blender or with bring to a boil. If you have a bottle of Pernod, add a splash, or else add a es, two 8-ounce bottles clam juice, the chopped an immersion blender. (For the most velvety texture, put the puree splash of dry white vermouth or dry white wine. Bring to a boil, then reduce porcini and mushroom liquor, 2 cups chicken or vegetable broth and 1 cup dry white wine. through a fine-mesh strainer.) the heat and cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes or until the Bring to a boil and add 1 cup light or heavy cream (or 1 cup evaporated milk, in a pinch). zucchini is soft. Cook for 5 minutes to blend the flavors, season to taste with black pepper and serve. GARNISH: with chopped hard-cooked egg and a splash of dry sherry, (The clams and clam broth are salty, so taste before adding salt.) Madeira or Marsala. Freezes well. GARNISH: each portion with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. GARNISH: with chopped flat-leaf parsley. *25 minutes’ cooking time. See SOUP 2 Southwest Black Bean and SOUP 3 Chunky Black Bean online at See SOUP 2 Pennsylvania Dutch Corn and Potato Chowder and SOUP 3 Northwest www.washingtonpost.com/food. Salmon and Corn Chowder online at www.washingtonpost.com/food. See SOUP 2 Hungarian Mushroom* and SOUP 3 Shiitake Hot & Sour Mushroom* online at www.washingtonpost.com/food.

DOMENICA MARCHETTI wrote today’s Food section feature on chowders. She can be reached at [email protected]. SPECIAL INGREDIENTS SHE LIKES TO HAVE ON HAND: Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, dried porcini mushrooms, smoked Spanish paprika.

PANTRY FAVORITE CANNED CHICKPEAS PANTRY FAVORITE COCONUT MILK PANTRY FAVORITE PASTINA SOUP 1 Chickpea and Chestnut SOUP 1 Virginia Peanut SOUP 1 Pasta and Potato 4 main-course servings With Coconut Milk With Paprika 4 main-course servings 4 to 5 main-course servings Heat 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in the pot. Add 2 crushed garlic cloves and 1 teaspoon chopped Heat 2 tablespoons unsalted butter Heat 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil fresh sage leaves. When the garlic begins to sizzle, in the pot; add 1 cup chopped cel- and 1 tablespoon finely chopped pan- 1 add ⁄4 cup chopped yellow onion and cook, stirring, ery and 1 cup chopped yellow onion. cetta or bacon in the pot until the meat for 7 to 8 minutes, until the onion is soft. Add two Cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 sizzles, then add 1 bunch thinly 15-ounce cans drained chickpeas and 2 cups chicken minutes, until the vegetables are sliced scallions, 2 diced carrots and 3 1 broth; stir and heat through. Transfer half of the soft. Add 3 tablespoons flour, 1 cup diced potatoes. Stir in ⁄2 teaspoon salt, 1 1 chickpeas, and some of the broth, to a blender and creamy peanut butter, a generous ⁄2 teaspoon sweet Hungarian paprika, ⁄4 puree until smooth. Use a potato masher to pinch cayenne pepper and 1 table- teaspoon smoked Spanish paprika and a coarsely process the remaining chickpeas in the spoon tomato paste mixed with 1 generous pinch cayenne pepper; stir to 1 pot (or use an immersion blender). Return the pu- cup chicken broth. Mix well, then coat the vegetables. Add ⁄2 cup reed chickpeas to the pot and reduce the heat. transfer to a blender; add 1 cup canned diced tomatoes and 3 cups chick- Warm 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in a skillet. chicken broth and puree until en or vegetable broth. Bring to a boil, Stir in 1 tablespoon finely chopped sage leaves and 4 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto, cut smooth. Return the mixture to the pot. Add 1 cup chicken broth, then reduce the heat, cover partially and cook for about 10 minutes, until into thin ribbons. Cook for 2 minutes, then add 1 cup coarsely chopped peeled and one 13.5-ounce can unsweetened coconut milk (may use “lite”) the potatoes and carrots are tender. Pour in 3 more cups broth and bring 1 1 cooked chestnuts and ⁄2 cup chicken broth. Stir for about 2 minutes, then add the chestnut and 1 teaspoon salt or to taste. Bring just to a boil and stir in 2 to a boil; stir in 1 ⁄2 cups small uncooked pasta, such as pastina, shells or dita- 1 mixture to the pureed chickpeas, along with the remaining ⁄2 cup broth. Season to taste teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon or lime juice. lini. Cook until the pasta is done (5 to 10 minutes, depending on the pasta 1 with salt and black pepper. The soup should be thick. Bring to a boil just before serving. shape and brand). Stir in ⁄2 cup freshly grated pecorino Romano cheese and 2 GARNISH: with chopped scallions and chopped salted peanuts, if de- tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley. GARNISH: with a generous drizzle of your best olive oil and toasted croutons, if desired. sired. See SOUP 2 Pastina in Chicken Broth and SOUP 3 Quick Minestrone online at See SOUP 2 Chickpea and Pasta With Rosemary and SOUP 3 Cream of Chickpea and Shrimp online See SOUP 2 Chicken-Coconut and SOUP 3 Spicy Butternut Squash and www.washingtonpost.com/food. at www.washingtonpost.com/food. Coconut online at www.washingtonpost.com/food.

MITCHELL DAVIS, vice president of the James Beard Foundation, is the author of “Kitchen Sense” (Clarkson Potter, 2006). SPECIAL INGREDIENTS HE LIKES TO HAVE ON HAND: trahana (Greek pasta), pancetta and dried porcini mushrooms.

PANTRY FAVORITE FROZEN PEAS PANTRY FAVORITE ISRAELI COUSCOUS PANTRY FAVORITE FROZEN SHRIMP

SOUP 1 Chunky Potato Pea SOUP 1 Lemony Spinach With Couscous SOUP 1 Shrimp and Egg Drop 4 to 6 servings 4 to 6 servings 4 to 6 servings Heat 3 tablespoons unsalted butter Heat 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive Bring 6 cups chicken broth to a boil; add 3 in the pot. Add 1 diced-then- oil in the pot. Add 1 diced onion and 1 tablespoons soy sauce, 2 whole garlic washed leek and cook until tender. minced garlic clove; cook until cloves and a 1-inch (sliced) piece ginger Then add 2 diced Yukon Gold pota- tender. Add 2 teaspoons ground root. Cook, covered, for 10 minutes; 1 toes, 1 shredded carrot, 5 cups wa- cumin and a pinch cayenne pepper; discard the garlic and ginger. Add ⁄2 ter or broth and a generous pinch cook 1 to 2 minutes. Add 6 cups broth pound frozen peeled and deveined uncooked 3 salt. Cook for 10 minutes. Add 2 and bring to a boil. Add ⁄4 cup Israeli shrimp and cook until heated through. cups frozen peas and a handful of couscous and cook for 5 minutes. Combine 3 teaspoons cornstarch and 3 chopped flat-leaf parsley. Bring to a Add one 10-ounce package frozen tablespoons water in a small cup (to boil; season to taste with black pep- chopped spinach and bring back to a make a slurry). Stir into the soup along per. For a thicker consistency, pu- boil. Add the juice of 2 lemons; with 1 beaten egg and 2 chopped scallions. Cook until slightly thickened and ree one-third of the soup and re- season to taste with salt and black egg is done; season to taste with salt and white pepper. turn it to the pot. pepper. GARNISH: with fresh cilantro. See SOUP 2 Minty Pea and SOUP 3 Mediterranean Pea online at See SOUP 2 Couscous and Mushroom and SOUP 3 Minestrone online at

See SOUP 2 Curried Shrimp and Tomato and SOUP 3 Shrimp Chowder online at www.washingtonpost.com/food. www.washingtonpost.com/food. www.washingtonpost.com/food.

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