AN EMBARCADERO MEDIA PUBLICATION

EXPERIENCE MIDPENINSULA DINING

SPRING 2019

ON THE WHERE TO FIND GLUTEN-FREE GOODS ON THE RISE PENINSULA

WHAT’S NEW? LOCAL RESTAURANT OPENINGS, CLOSINGS AND ANTICIPATED ARRIVALS 2 „ DELISH „ SPRING 2019 FRIDAY 8:00 PM • CAMPBELL RECITAL HALL JAZZ INSIDE OUT JUN 21 WITH JIM NADEL & FRIENDS 29 BRILLIANT CONCERTS

SUN 4:00 PM • DINKELSPIEL AUDITORIUM INDIAN JAZZ JOURNEY JUN 21– 23 featuring Mahesh Kale, Stanley Jordan, George Brooks, & Subhankar Banerjee FRI 8:00 PM • CAMPBELL RECITAL HALL AUG 3 AKIRA TANA & FRIENDS: 28 THE MUSIC OF MICHEL LEGRAND

SAT 8:00 PM • DINKELSPIEL AUDITORIUM BIRD WITH STRINGS 29 Featuring Andrew Speight

SAT 10:00 AM • DINKELSPIEL AUDITORIUM EARLY BIRD JAZZ FOR KIDS: JUL 6 JIM NADEL & THE ZOOKEEPERS

SAT 2:00 PM • DINKELSPIEL AUDITORIUM PAMELA ROSE: GREAT WOMEN 6 OF THE AMERICAN SONGBOOK

FRI 8:00 PM • CAMPBELL RECITAL HALL ERIK JEKABSON SEXTET 12 FEATURING JOHN SANTOS

SAT 8:00 PM • DINKELSPIEL AUDITORIUM ANDREA MOTIS QUINTET 13 With Ken Peplowski & the SJW 50/50 Jazz Orchestra SUN 7:30 PM • DINKELSPIEL AUDITORIUM MATT WILSON’S CÉCILE 14 HONEY & SALT MCLORIN TUE 7:30 PM • CAMPBELL RECITAL HALL SARAH REICH: 16 TAP INTO JAZZ SALVANT

WED 7:30 PM • DINKELSPIEL AUDITORIUM THE DAYNA STEPHENS JUNE 22 BING CONCERT HALL 17 PERSPECTIVE

SAT 8:00 PM • DINKELSPIEL AUDITORIUM LISA FISCHER & 20 TAYLOR EIGSTI

SUN TWO SHOWS! 4:00 PM & 7:30 PM • DINKELSPIEL AUDITORIUM 21 JOEY ALEXANDER TRIO

SAT 8:00 PM • DINKELSPIEL AUDITORIUM ANAT COHEN & 27 TRIO DA PAZ brazilian jazz supergroup SUN 8:00 PM • DINKELSPIEL AUDITORIUM DAFNIS PRIETO PROVERB TRIO 28 PRESENTED BY

TUE 8:00 PM • DINKELSPIEL AUDITORIUM 30 TAYLOR EIGSTI GROUP

SAT 8:00 PM • BING CONCERT HALL TICKETS 650-725-2787 JOSHUA REDMAN: AUG 3 STILL DREAMING STANFORDJAZZ.ORG SPRING 2019

EXPERIENCE

6 MIDPENINSULA DINING A vanilla cake soaked with elderberry syrup, frosted with lemon curd and vanilla elderflower buttercream from Sweet Diplomacy. Photo by Veronica Weber.

On the rise 6 A look at where to find gluten-free goods on the Peninsula

What’s new? 14 Local restaurant openings, closings and anticipated arrivals

Persian market is here to stay 24 Rose International Market’s grand reopening

The eight best Peninsula dive bars 30 Check out these classic watering holes

14 ON THE COVER: A steak-and-egg kimchi banh mi sandwich served on gluten-free bread at Gracie Jones Bake Shop. Taro San Japanese Bar serves fresh custom made on Photo by Veronica Weber. a specialty machine from Japan. Courtesy of Taro San Japanese Noodle Bar.

Publisher: William S. Johnson Vice President Sales/ Delish Editor: Elena Kadvany Marketing: Tom Zahiralis Art Director: Kristin Brown Advertising Sales: Tiffany Birch, Elaine Clark, Writers: Kate Bradshaw, Elena Connie Jo Cotton, Janice Kadvany, Anna Medina, Alicia Hoogner and Jillian Schrager Mies and Charles Russo Photographers: Michelle Le and Veronica Weber

Embarcadero Media: The Almanac, Mountain View Voice, Palo Alto Weekly 450 Cambridge Ave., Palo Alto, CA 94306 „ 650-223-6500 24 AlmanacNews.com, MountainViewOnline.com, PaloAltoOnline.com

Rose water and other extracts are among the specialty items at Rose ©2019 by Embarcadero Media. All rights reserved. Reproduction without International Market in Mountain View. Photo by Veronica Weber. permission is strictly prohibited.

4 „ DELISH „ SPRING 2019 PALO ALTO WEEKLY „ MOUNTAIN VIEW VOICE „ THE ALMANAC „ 5 FOOD & DRINK

Gluten-free goodies at Gracie Jones Bake Shop include cookies, vegan streusel muffins, donuts, -apple gallettes and strawberry and jam donuts. Photos by Veronica Weber.

Gracie Jones the ri Gluten Free Bakery, n se Palo Alto O find g e to luten graciejonesbakeshop.com er -fr h on the Pen e A 4-year-old boy inadvertently W ods insu e go la brought celiac disease to the attention of chef Gracie Jones, just under a de- cade ago when she was transitioning from working as a fine-dining chef to opening up the fast-casual Asian Box aiters no longer look at you like you’re an alien chain. She learned that the boy was life-form when you inquire about their gluten-free unable to eat gluten — a substance W commonly found in breads, baked options. goods, and cereals — because In the Bay Area, gluten-free food choices abound from baked his body couldn’t process it. goods that don’t crumble in one bite to pizza crusts that stand up While cooking at this family’s home, Jones and the team decided to ̜Ì iˆÀyœÕÀ‡i˜ÀˆV i`Vœ“«ï̈œ˜° keep the menu gluten-free, eliminat- Read on for some of the region’s best gluten-free baked goods and ing soy sauce and noodles. dining options. “It just worked, and we just kept with it ever since,” she said.

6 „ DELISH „ SPRING 2019 FOOD & DRINK

Left: Gracie Jones, owner of Gracie Jones Bake Shop, prepares tiramisu, right, made with a gluten-free vanilla spongecake soaked in Vietnamese coffee with cinnamon egg cream and toasted marshmallow meringues.

In what was meant to be a In addition to an assortment commissary and test kitchen of baked goods — the popular for Asian Box in Palo Alto’s chocolate chip cookies and Midtown neighborhood, Jones sprinkle donuts regularly sell out has opened her own gluten-free — she also serves savory lunch bakery. She enjoys the challenge items, including a Vietnamese of baking without grains. bahn mi sandwich, a recipe she “My goal is, I want to make has been working on for years. sure that people can’t tell the Jones was clear on one thing: difference,” Jones said. “I won’t She’s not baking for the gluten- serve it until it tastes exactly the free skeptics. way I want it.” “I would suggest for them not To start, Jones refers to recipes to try it; they’re going to try it, with gluten and then, through but then they’re always going to trial and error, goes through be negative about something,” many iterations of a single item she said. before she is satisfied with the Instead, she’s focused on mak- gluten-free result. Because ing delicious food, in its own gluten-free recipes call for right. many different ingredients to —Anna Medina create the flour equivalent, she has created her own pre-mixed The crispy -cake bowl with spring vegetables, scallions, tofu, shallots, gluten-free flour. (continued on page 8) peanuts and herbs at Gracie Jones Bake Shop. PALO ALTO WEEKLY „ MOUNTAIN VIEW VOICE „ THE ALMANAC „ 7 FOOD & DRINK

(continued from page 7) butter blondies, vegan raspberry thumbprint cookies and coconut Clean Sweets chocolate chip cookies. by Sasha, When she was living in New Redwood City York in 2014, a doctor told Lipton to cut out grains, gluten, dairy, cleansweetsbysasha.com refined sugar and soy from her Sasha Lipton makes a living diet to remedy her cystic acne. selling cakes, muffins, cookies She quickly realized there were and other desserts with no grains, few truly healthy sweets avail- gluten, soy, dairy or refined sugar able. Motivated by a major sweet — basically, the ingredients that tooth, Lipton, who has baked and people associate with baked goods. cooked throughout her life, start- “There are a ton of gluten-free ed to experiment in the kitchen, and vegan bakeries, but vegan and making healthier variations of her gluten-free doesn’t mean healthy favorite sweets. in any sense. There are tons of As her skin started to clear up sugar and gums and thickeners and she started to feel more ener- and weird oils added to make getic, she said she started sharing those baked goods be the texture her baked goods with family and and taste that you would expect,” coworkers. she said. “I think the more simple, Lipton said she hopes to help the better. I’m staying true to that.” other people who are trying to be After plenty of trial and error, more conscious of the ingredients Lipton created a base recipe for that they put into their bodies while her baked goods. She uses almond also making a delicious product. flour, which she said makes her “I don’t want to make baked desserts more dense, and replaces goods that taste good for being butter and cream with coconut oil. healthy,” she said. “I wanted to make baked goods that taste She sweetens her desserts, made Top: Sasha Lipton, creator of Clean Sweets by Sasha, mixes brownie in her home kitchen, with maple good and happen to be healthy.” batter made with almond flour, cocoa powder, eggs, vanilla, coconut syrup. She makes everything —Alicia Mies sugar and coconut oil in her home kitchen. Above: Raspberry from lemon poppyseed muf- thumbprint cookies made with homemade raspberry jam are among fins and banana bread to peanut (continued on page 10) her healthy baked goods. Photos by Veronica Weber.

8 „ DELISH „ SPRING 2019 Free and open Proceeds benefit to the public local nonprofits 1-6pm

Save the Dates 2019

May 18 - Cajun Carnival Food Farmers Mardi Gras/Blues Festival Proceeds benefit hunger and homelessness orgs Trucks MArket June 22 – Red, White & Brew Americana, Country & Craft Beer Fest ́Ÿ× ––ü Proceeds benefit veterans and local health services Wine & Cocktails Aug 17 – Island Vibes Artisans ųº’ crafts Reggae Fest & Summer celebration Proceeds benefit environmental and sustainability causes ܺ’́¦Ñ–ü Sept 21 – Bands on the Bayfront 3¦å–ƒÜѦ All Genre Music Festival Proceeds benefit school music and art programs Oct 19 – Fall Fiesta Kids Zone Free Latin cultural celebration with Halloween activities Proceeds benefit youth mentoring and sports programs Cooking for a Cause

@FacebookFestivals www.FBCommunityEvents.com

1 Hacker Way, Menlo Park PALO ALTO WEEKLY „ [email protected] MOUNTAIN VIEW VOICE „ THE ALMANAC „ 9 FOOD & DRINK

(continued from page 8) Sweet Diplomacy, Los Altos

sweetdiplomacy.com Melody Hu has infused her baking business with global ele- ments that reflect flavors tied to her own history as a Taiwanese- American woman: mochi cup- cakes, cakes and madeleines. A fitness instructor with a mild sweet tooth, Hu was born in Taiwan and moved to the Peninsula as a teen. In 2017, she began experi- menting with baking using sweet rice flour. Her pastries fuse cultures, blending Asian mochi with the American cupcake and the French madeleine cookie. “I think that’s very representa- tive of who we are in California and in the world. We’re all com- binations of different cultures, celebrating coming together at the table,” Hu said. Her creations, beyond being inclusive of different cultures, are inclusive for another reason — they’re naturally gluten-free, and some versions also are vegan, meaning that people with dietary restrictions can partici- pate in the pleasure of patisserie. She recently renamed her bakery from Petit Bakery Co. to Sweet Diplomacy. Unlike other gluten-free bases, Above: Melody Hu, owner of Sweet Diplomacy, outside the site of her future bakery in Los Altos with a which she noted can be grainy gluten-free vanilla cake. Below: Her cupcakes are gluten free and paleo friendly. Photos by Veronica Weber. and crumbly, the rice-based mochi texture gives her cup- Other gluten- cakes a satisfying chewiness. free options They also have less sugar — her Swiss meringue buttercream in the area recipe, she said, has just enough sugar and butter to be silky- • Zest Bakery, San Carlos smooth, but a lot less sugar than • Ducks and Dragons a regular buttercream frosting. Bakery, San Carlos (also All animal-based ingredients in available at Bare Bowls her recipes, she said, are organic. in Palo Alto and local The glutinous rice flour creates a farmers markets) texture in Hu’s cupcakes that is • Pita at Oren’s Hummus, less bready, and more dense and all locations chewy than traditional cupcakes. Combined with the elegant icing, • Pizza and pasta at the cupcakes are a surprisingly Pizzeria Delfina, all filling and rich treat. locations She’s planning to open a • Pizza at Blue Line Pizza, brick-and-mortar bakery in all locations downtown Los Altos in summer • Select pastries at Manresa 2019. Bread, Los Altos —Kate Bradshaw

10 „ DELISH „ SPRING 2019 VOTED BEST ITALIAN RESTAURANT!

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2 0 1 8 Voted Voted Top 7 Most Best Pizza! Authentic Neapolitan- Style Pizzerias www.terunpizza.com 448 S. California Avenue Palo Alto 650.600.8310

PALO ALTO WEEKLY „ MOUNTAIN VIEW VOICE „ THE ALMANAC „ 11 12 „ DELISH „ SPRING 2019 TH ANNUAL ALTO 38 OF PALO CITY

COOKCOOK OFFOFF

AND SUMMERCALLING FESTIVAL ALL TEAMS!  THANKS TO OUR EVENT SPONSORS JULY 4, 2019 7 NOON TO 5PM 7 MITCHELL PARK 7 600 E. MEADOW DRIVE, PALO ALTO Chili lovers…Pull out your best recipe and get ready to compete in the heated competition of the City of Palo Alto’s 38th Annual Chili Cook Off & Summer Festival on the 4th of July! Sign up today!

The judges will award over $2,000 in cash and prizes to the Best Chili Division and Best Overall Chili Winners. There’s also the coveted Best Booth and Best Spirit Awards up for grabs so pull your team together and start planning a great day of cooking, decorating and fun. The public will also vote for the People’s Choice Award, so let the battle begin! FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT PALOALTOCHILICOOKOFF.COM OR EMAIL [email protected] PALO ALTO WEEKLY „ MOUNTAIN VIEW VOICE „ THE ALMANAC „ 13 FOOD & DRINK

What’s new in Midpeninsula dining

Local openings, closings and anticipated arrivals BY ELENA KADVANY

t’s already been a busy year milk tea is made in small Ion the local food-and-drink batches using real tea leaves beat, with high turnover and instead of powders, with the departure of some long- Straus Family Creamery time businesses — but also the organic milk and a house- return of one and the promise made, all-natural sweetener. of other exciting new projects The typical Boba Guys menu on the horizon. We’ve got the is available in Palo Alto, such details on the eateries that have as the best-selling strawberry closed, opened and are headed matcha latte with matcha, to the Midpeninsula this year. milk and a housemade straw- berry purée. Customers can What’s Opened build their own drinks to their preferences, from type of tea Boba Guys, Palo Alto and milk to sweetness level. There’s been a line out the Boba Guys also serves pastries door at Boba Guys since the and some food, including moment it quietly soft opened Hong Kong milk toast. Top: Strawberry jasmine tea fresca and strawberry matcha latte at at Town & Country Village in 855 El Camino Real #120, Boba Guys. Above: Boba Guys has attracted a line of customers out January. It’s the 15th location Palo Alto; bobaguys.com the door since opening its 15th location at Town & County Village. for the -born Photos by Veronica Weber. Boba Guys, whose popular (continued on page 16)

14 „ DELISH „ SPRING 2019 FLIGHTS is excited to announce the arrival of Chef Kyle Kingrey, previously of Lavo Las Vegas, as well as Beauty & Essex in NY, Hollywood, and Las Vegas. Please sample our new menu now at every location!

FLIGHTS is the hottest addition to the Bay Area dining scene. Serving comfort food tapas style. Shared plates #FLIGHTSFOOD are the perfect way to eat out on a date night, girls’ night out, family outing, or business meeting. www.FlightsRestaurant.com

CAMPBELL e LOS GATOS e BURLINGAME e MOUNTAIN VIEW PALO ALTO WEEKLY „ MOUNTAIN VIEW VOICE „ THE ALMANAC „ 15 FOOD & DRINK

on a specialty machine from Japan. Beyond a traditional beef udon, the noodles are served in nontraditional ways: one with a -like chicken paitan broth and another with a vegan broth made from shiitake stock, vegetable stock and miso. Tsuke- men, traditionally served with ramen noodles and a dipping broth, comes instead with udon, duck breast and a rich fish dip- ping broth. Owner Jerome Ito, a former sushi chef who also runs Go Fish Poke Bar, plans to open more Taro San locations in the future. 717 Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto; tarosanudon.com

Roost House, Palo Alto Frank Klein, co-founder and now former CEO of fast-casual Employees of Rose International Market stand in the new Mountain View store. From left are general chain Asian Box, is onto a new manager Ebi Nasiri, stock clerk Ahmad Alfagem, manager Ramin Mehranfar, stock clerk Abdullah Alamoush venture: a chicken restaurant and cashier Saghar Norouzi. Photo by Veronica Weber. in downtown Palo Alto. Klein opened Roost House earlier this tahdig (crispy-bottomed rice), person for every additional half (continued from page 14) year, which he described as a wraps, salads and other dishes. hour. No leftovers allowed. “neighborhood chicken restau- Rose International Market, 801 W. El Camino Real, 210 Hope St., Mountain View; Mountain View rant that offers massive amounts Suite B, Mountain View; 650-963-9819 of veggie alternatives, some February marked the much- rosemarketcatering.com anticipated return of Rose Inter- Taro San Noodle Bar, on-trend dietary dishes and national Market. The longtime Superhot Hot Pot & Korean Palo Alto amazing beer, wine and ciders.” Persian market reopened after BBQ, Mountain View Taro San Japanese Noodle Bar Dishes include fried-chicken closing temporarily in 2015 The menu at Superhot Hot opened at Stanford Shopping sandwiches, wings and pickled while an apartment complex Pot & Korean BBQ, as the name Center in January, channel- vegetables. was built at the corner of Castro suggests, is extensive. Udon, ing the art of udon-making in 461 Emerson St., Palo Alto; Street and El Camino Real. The ramen and biang biang noodles. the heart of . The roosthousepa.com renovated market is larger and Beef tripe, popcorn chicken restaurant serves three types of updated but carries the same and spicy lamb. Quail egg, raw fresh udon noodles custom made (continued on page 19) specialty grocery items, fresh egg. Chinese donuts. Bean curd produce and prepared foods knots. Tom yum soup. Beef that have made it a local favorite bulgogi. For $29.95 per person, for decades. The kitchen, led by you can get all-you-can-eat hot Rose Market’s longtime Iranian pot, Korean BBQ and dim sum. chef, is again churning out ke- The restaurant limits meals to babs, koubideh, (stews), 90 minutes and charges $10 per

Flavored non-alcoholic malt beverages are among the specialty items sold at Rose International Market in Mountain View, which recently Taro San Japanese Noodle Bar serves three types of fresh udon reopened after closing temporarily in 2015. Photo by Veronica Weber. noodles. Courtesy Taro San Japanese Noodle Bar. 16 „ DELISH „ SPRING 2019 “THE BEST DISPENSARY” “IN CALIFORNIA”

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(continued from page 16) Menlo Tavern, Menlo Park What was once Menlo Grill has reopened with a new name, chef and menu at the Stanford Park Hotel in Menlo Park. General Manager Patrick Lane said in a previous interview that he decided to run the restaurant as its own business separate from the hotel, which prompted the revamp. Menlo Tavern’s new menu skews toward American comfort food, like skillet cornbread, deviled eggs, cast iron-seared salmon, burgers (including a meatless Impossible Burger), pasta, roasted chicken and filet mignon. The restaurant is meant to serve the local com- munity as much as hotel guests, Lane said. 100 El Camino Real, Menlo Park; menlotavern.com

Capelo’s Barbecue, Oren’s Hummus Shop is opening a new “express” shop at Town & Country Village this spring. The site will Redwood City offer quick, grab-and-go service for many of its popular menu items, such as its classic hummus dishes. Fans of Capelo’s Barbecue can Photos by Michelle Le. now get the popular food truck’s Oren’s Hummus Express, smoked meats at a to-go counter Palo Alto at the business’ commercial More news for Town & kitchen in Redwood City. It’s a Country Village patrons: Popular quick-service operation; order Israeli restaurant Oren’s Hum- a selection of wood-fired meats, mus is opening a new “express” meats by the pound and side outpost this spring. This will dishes from a limited menu and be the first of several Oren’s be on your way. Owner John Hummus Express locations in Capelo plans to open a full-ser- the Bay Area that will focus vice restaurant there in 2020. on quick, grab-and-go service. 2655 Middlefield Road, The 855-square-foot space Redwood City; at the back of the shopping capelosbarbecue.com center (the former home of Fast Tony’s Chicken) will be open Mendocino Farms, Palo Alto seven days a week with a counter Southern California-based the corner of California and Ash Belcampo Meat Co., Palo Alto where customers can order hot sandwich chain Mendocino Street, where the Hotel Califor- Hyper-sustainable meat items made for pick up as well Farms opened in May in down- nia is. Matt Larson, director of company Belcampo has closed as to-go orders. Look for Oren’s town Palo Alto, according to the public affairs for Sand Hill, said its Palo Alto and San Francisco creamy hummus, rice bowls, pita company’s website. The fast-ca- the Simply Sandwiches owner locations to make way for its sandwiches and more. sual restaurant, which took over informed the company “earlier first commissary kitchen and a the former LYFE Kitchen space, 855 El Camino Real in February that they intended to major new project in San Mateo. serves sandwiches and salads us- Suite #162, Palo Alto; leave. The shop closed its doors The outpost at Town & Country ing locally sourced ingredients as orenshummus.com at the end of last month.” The Village closed on March 2. The well as vegan sandwiches, gluten- owner had been on a month-to- company plans to open the com- free options and seasonal dishes What’s Closed month lease, Larson said. The missary kitchen in San Francisco that rotate throughout the year. longtime, original owners of the this spring, then a 7,000-square- Mendocino Farms operates more Simply Sandwiches, Palo Alto 250-square-foot sandwich shop, foot restaurant at Hillsdale than 17 locations in Southern Simply Sandwiches, the af- Rob and Jeannie Wimmel, sold Shopping Center in San Mateo California and four in Northern fordable, pocket-sized sandwich the business and retired in 2014. this summer. The shift will allow California, with more on the way shop off California Avenue, has They bought the shop from Belcampo to focus on grow- in both regions. closed. Sand Hill Property Com- friends in 1985, when each of ing other parts of its business: 167 Hamilton Ave., Palo Alto; pany owns the building Simply the menu’s five sandwiches cost mendocinofarms.com/ Sandwiches was located in at $2.25. (continued on page 20) palo-alto

PALO ALTO WEEKLY „ MOUNTAIN VIEW VOICE „ THE ALMANAC „ 19 FOOD & DRINK

restaurant, “focused on an au- Sweet Diplomacy, Los Altos thentic German beer garden,” co- The owner of Sweet Diploma- owner and Hamburg native Nicole cy, a gluten-free baking company Jacobi said. Along with drinks, that makes fusion pastries like there will be food that draws on mochi madeleines, is opening Jacobi’s roots and family recipes: her first brick-and-mortar bakery imported pretzels, sausage salad, this summer in downtown Los and German meats and cheeses. Altos at the former site of Cho’s 383 Castro St., Mountain View; Mandarin Dim Sum. Everything ludwigssj.com Sweet Diplomacy serves will be gluten-free, from cakes and Telefèric Barcelona, Palo Alto cupcakes to muffins. The bakery The owners of Telefèric Barce- will also offer paleo, vegan and lona, who run three well-known dairy-free desserts, plus coffee, restaurants in Barcelona, Spain, tea, dairy-free lattes and boba. and a fourth in Creek, are 209 1st St., Los Altos; opening a new location at Town sweetdiplomacy.com & Country Village this year. Tele- fèric is currently renovating the Selby’s, Redwood City former Calafia Cafe space, which Selby’s, the latest restaurant includes a next-door market project from the local Bacchus that will be stocked with Spanish Management Group (Mayfield wines, cheese, cured meats and Bakery, The Village Pub, Spruce), other imported products. The will be a fine-dining affair “in- restaurant serves Spanish tapas, spired by Hollywood’s glamorous pintxos and paella. dining scene of the 1930s and 855 El Camino Real, Palo Alto; 1940s.” The 10,000 square-foot telefericbarcelona.com restaurant is set to open at 3001 El Camino Real in Redwood Head butcher Joey Ada, left, and his apprentice, Patrick Siemon, Daigo Sushi, Palo Alto City this summer. There will be stand at the counter of Belcampo Meat Co., which has closed its Palo Palo Alto’s Hidden Garden dishes prepared table-side, like Alto location to make way for its first commissary kitchen. Photo by Sushi, which carried on its Ciera Pasturel. a dry-aged duck for two and predecessor’s tradition of serving flambéed desserts, plus a roving brown-rice sushi, has closed and martini cart. Vegetables will Honcho Bar, Los Altos (continued from page 19) will be replaced by a traditional come from Bacchus’ private farm After three years of serv- sushi restaurant. Eric Peng, e-commerce, food delivery and in Woodside, which supplies all ing beer, wine and low-proof who owns Daigo Sushi in San “large-format premier dining of its restaurants. The team is cocktails in downtown Los Francisco, has taken over the experiences,” the company said hopeful to earn a Michelin star Altos, Honcho Bar shuttered in space and plans to open a second in a release. Belcampo opened in “right out the gate” at Selby’s, February. Owner Rod Newman location there this spring. The Palo Alto in 2014, part of a retail said Bacchus founding partner declined to comment on the Palo Alto Daigo Sushi will serve expansion push in northern and Tim Stannard. reasons for the closure but cited teishoku, a Japanese meal set, for southern California. the “cost of doing business in lunch and omakase for dinner. Staff Writer Elena Kadvany the Bay Area.” A veteran of the can be emailed at ekadvany@ Cho’s Mandarin Dim Sum, 2363 Birch St., Palo Alto; paweekly.com Los Altos food and drink industries, he daigosushi.com After nearly four decades opened Honcho in 2016 to create in business, Cho’s Mandarin a “gathering space for people Dim Sum closed for good in to work or get to know each late January. The owners of the other or share a meal or just have longtime, unassuming dim sum happy hour,” he said at the time. spot moved to Los Altos in 2015 after receiving a 60-day notice Coming Soon from their landlord in Palo Alto, which sparked outrage in the Ludwig’s German Table, community and even a peti- Mountain View tion to save the hole-in-the-wall The owners of Ludwig’s restaurant. “After 39 long years German Table in San Jose are of serving the community his bringing their traditional German beloved food, Cho is finally restaurant and biergarten concept moving on with his retirement,” to downtown Mountain View this a Facebook post announcing the summer, taking over the former final closure reads. “There are no Bierhaus space on Castro Street. immediate plans for reopening The Mountain View location will Telefèric Barcelona will serve Spanish tapas and paella, pictured here, at in the near future.” be more casual than the San Jose its new location at Town & Country Village. Courtesy Telefèric Barcelona.

20 „ DELISH „ SPRING 2019 $ ANY HAPPY HOUR • 3-6pm 2.00 OFF SMALL PIZZA Monday - Friday PALO ALTO PIZZA CO. | TWO COUPONS PER ORDER Draft Beer & House Wine 1/2 OFF $ ANY 3.00 OFF MEDIUM PIZZA — All Pizzas Available Gluten Free! — PALO ALTO PIZZA CO. | TWO COUPONS PER ORDER Mon - Sat 11am-9pm • Sun - 12 noon-9pm $ ANY 650-328-1662 4.00 OFF LARGE PIZZA 2450 Park Blvd., Palo Alto www.paloalto-pizza.com PALO ALTO PIZZA CO. | TWO COUPONS PER ORDER CASP AN mediterranean cuisine caspianeats.com | 650-967-7752 | Mountain View

1910 El Camino Real, Suite D, Mountain View, California 94040

PALO ALTO WEEKLY „ MOUNTAIN VIEW VOICE „ THE ALMANAC „ 21 Delicious Italian Food in Beautiful Downtown Los Altos Enjoy Our , Pizzas, Salads, Entrees And Daily Specials Prepared With The Freshest Seasonal Ingredients. 100 State Street • Los Altos • 650.949.2400 www.pompeiiristorante.com Open Tuesday-Sunday

K-POT & GRILL Korean BBQ & Hot Pot

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22 „ DELISH „ SPRING 2019 w Farm ie e V r s n ’ i M a t a

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Caltrain Station (West Evelyn & Hope) Sundays 9am - 1pm Rain or Shine cafarmersmkts.com 1-800-806-FARM @mountainviewfarmersmarket PALO ALTO WEEKLY „ MOUNTAIN VIEW VOICE „ THE ALMANAC „ 23 FOOD & DRINK Persian market is here to stay

Rose International reopens, bringing back the ‘best in the Bay’

BY ELENA KADVANY PHOTOS BY VERONICA WEBER

t’s a familiar script in Silicon Valley. IDeveloper builds project. Existing tenants, often longtime mom-and-pop businesses, lose their homes. The com- munity bemoans the closures. Trendy, bigger-name tenants move in and even- tually, everyone moves on. Mountain View’s Rose International Market represents a rare, happy plot twist in that script. After the com- munity stood up against a proposed four-story apartment complex at the desirable corner of Castro Street and El Camino Real in 2014, the developer agreed to sign affordable, long-term leases for several small businesses then at the site, including the decades-old Persian market, so they would remain in the ground floor of the new building once it opened. Five years later, loyal customers have quickly returned to the new and im- proved Rose Market, which reopened in February. The space is larger and updated, but the food and the people cooking it remain the same. Mally Attar has been leading the Rose Market kitchen since its earliest days in its original location on Castro Street, which native Saied Meh- ranfar opened with his brothers. Attar left her native Tehran, Iran, 30 years ago for a better life for her 4-year-old son, she said in an interview. A self-taught cook, she quickly earned a reputation around Rose Market for her food and started cooking for the own- ers when they added a kitchen, she said.

Cheese and yogurt at the new Rose International Market in Mountain View. (continued on page 26)

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PALO ALTO WEEKLY „ MOUNTAIN VIEW VOICE „ THE ALMANAC „ 25 FOOD & DRINK

(continued from page 24) She had also run a bakery in Iran. “I love it,” she said of cook- ing. In Persian culture, food, she added succinctly, is “everything.” The market’s ever-popular khouresh (stews), herb-forward soups, fluffy basmati rice and succulent are the foods Attar has cooked at home for decades. During the lunch rush at the new Rose Market, custom- ers wait eagerly for steaming takeout boxes stuffed with saf- fron rice and kebabs or satisfy- ing beef-and-lamb koubideh wrapped in pillowy soft bread. Cooks make the rice in enormous vats in the new, larger kitchen while kebabs and vegetables char on two massive grills nearby. Work your way through the Ebi Nasiri, general manager of Rose International Market, walks the aisles of the new Mountain View khoresh bar for an education location. in the Persian palate’s affinity a side of hummus or mast-o- peel, barberries and toasted proudly boasts that Rose Market for tart flavors and herbs, like khiar, a creamy yogurt dip with and almonds. Other offers the Bay Area’s largest of- fesenjan (a thick stew of ground cucumber and mint. While specials include tahchin, baked fering of halal meat cuts, with chicken, and pome- you wait for your food, peruse rice with yogurt, eggs everything from chicken thighs granate), bademjan (, the market’s aisles of imported and chicken; and , and goat to New York steak and tomatoes, bell peppers and sour goods for D.I.Y. add-ons like dill and fava bean rice, topped lamb hearts. grapes) and , a pickled cucumbers, whole sour with a juicy lamb shank (Attar’s Rose Market continues to fragrant herb stew. There’s also cherry jam and fresh herbs. For favorite dish to cook at home). be a draw for local Iranians as ash reshteh, a nourishing bean dessert, grab plump dates or a Almamorr said that food well as the broader community, and eaten during container of shole zard, saffron was central to his assimilation. which has happily celebrated Nowruz, the Persian New Year. rice pudding. When he first arrived in San the return, rather than the loss It’s filled with lentils, garbanzos, Don’t sleep on the daily spe- Francisco from Iraq, he found of a much-beloved, family-run pinto beans, , spinach cials. On a recent Friday, Attar comfort in what he said was the business. and noodles, then topped with made heaping piles of shirin city’s only halal butcher at the kashk (whey) and crispy fried Staff Writer Elena Kadvany polo, a sweet, orange-hued rice time, a small store in downtown. can be emailed at ekadvany@ and mint. studded with slivers of orange More than two decades later, he Everything goes well with paweekly.com.

Above: Employees at the Rose International Market stock the freezer with chopped herbs, which are used to make , a Persian rice dish, before the store’s reopening. Right: Imported grains at the market. 26 „ DELISH „ SPRING 2019 FEEL GOOD. EAT WELL.

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PALO ALTO WEEKLY „ MOUNTAIN VIEW VOICE „ THE ALMANAC „ 29 FOOD & DRINK

Antonio “Tony” Montooth, the late founder of Palo Alto’s neighborhood hangout Antonio’s House, mingles with customers from behind the bar in 2015. Photo by Michelle Le.

onsider us crazy, or drunk, or don’t care about your assessment The eight best Ccrazy drunk, but it seems to of them on Yelp. us that Bay Area bars have gotten We hope you like cheap really predictable and homoge- bottled beer and shots of Old dive bars neous over the last few years. You Crow, because these are our eight know the formula: the typical inte- favorite dives on the Peninsula. rior design with Edison light bulbs May they outlast us all. on the Peninsula and repurposed wood, as well as those high-brow cocktail menus APPLE JACK’S INN, with coy drink names and $15 LA HONDA price tags. It’s all gotten real cookie Located among the redwoods Need a break cutter — the same look and feel, along Highway 84, Apple Jack’s same approach, same experience. occupies a 139-year-old building from $15 Don’t get us wrong, we love a (and former 19th-century black- smith shop), which feels like it cocktails and good cocktail in a swanky set- ting. But in the effort of gaining could conceivably tilt, lurch and Yelp-obsessed some much-needed balance in collapse somewhere between the drinking world, we’d like your first and fourth drink. But weekend to focus on the opposite end of that’s a big part of why we love it. A perennial hangout for La warriors? Keep the spectrum by featuring our favorite dive bars in the 6-5-0, Honda locals, bikers of all stripes it easy and old where the most commonly used and other curious creatures who light bulb is a neon beer sign, seem to have just emerged from school at these the most sophisticated cocktail the nearby woods, Apple Jack’s classic Peninsula is Jack and ginger and the only is like the addled offspring of repurposed wood is a floorboard Ken Kesey’s ‘60s-era acid parties watering holes that was used to patch a hole in (which happened about a half the roof. Most of these establish- mile down the road) and David ments don’t have Twitter or Ins- Lynch’s off-kilt Twin Peaks TV BY CHARLES RUSSO tagram accounts (or websites for show. that matter), and they genuinely (continued on page 33)

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32 „ DELISH „ SPRING 2019 FOOD & DRINK

(continued from page 30) football over bottles of PBR, or locally caught seafood paired and going until 2 a.m. — every just hanging out with friends in with your favorite drink before day. The interior boasts pool and the larger space out back. stepping back out into the fresh It’s “owner-operated,” which foosball tables, a potbelly stove It might be situated right ocean air. in industry lingo means that you and a small food menu (buyer within the shadow of a huge 17 Johnson Pier, El Granda; can smoke inside, so embrace or beware). The outdoor porches bank building but something 650-728-3747 avoid as your lungs dictate. are roomy, rustic and might be tells us the Saddle Room will still All inclinations toward chain occupied by various canines or be around in Redwood City after PIONEER SALOON, smoking in the morning hours have a horse tethered nearby. many other trendy bars have WOODSIDE aside, Bucky’s is a classic neigh- Apple Jack’s is known to have long since fallen by the wayside. We’re a little reluctant to clas- borhood joint calibrated for live music on weekends, though Cash only. sify the Pioneer Saloon as a dive bottled beer and down-to-earth it’s anyone’s guess as to what the 1607 Woodside Road, bar per se, because there’s some- patrons. Bring cash and keep the schedule is. Redwood City; 650-361-9756 thing about the stained-glass jukebox going. Be aware, current operating windows and tiled ceiling of this 101 South Blvd., San Mateo; hours run from Wednesday to FRED’S PLACE, 19th-century building that just 650-349-4711 Sunday, and the bar accepts cash MOUNTAIN VIEW seems very worthy of classier ad- only, so plan accordingly. We feel like that there’s a won- jectives. Factor in a website that THE DOG HOUSE, 8790 La Honda Road, derful paradox at play with Fred’s posts a live music schedule, plus SAN BRUNO La Honda; 650-747-0331 Place, because it manages to some kind of magical device Rounding out our list is anoth- simultaneously be a classic Sili- that accepts credit cards, and the er fine 6-2 a.m. local wateringhole ANTONIO’S NUT HOUSE, con Valley meeting place while Pioneer can seem like an entirely that draws all kinds of patrons, PALO ALTO also making you feel like you just different animal than the other from Bay Area bikers to held- Antonio’s, our after-work des- stepped outside of Silicon Valley. spots on this list. over SFO passengers. Yes, the tination and preferred place to Maybe it’s the tall cans of PBR That said, its live music, Dog House on El Camino in San watch the Warriors trounce the served with a shot of Old Crow heavy-drinking atmosphere Bruno is a low-key locale to have opposition, is still a classic neigh- bourbon on the side (the defacto and 126-year history speaks to a Monday-morning Bloody Mary borhood hangout, even after the house special for $6), or the fact some genus or species (we forget or watch the Sharks game at night passing of the man himself, Tony that owner Pauli Partti once told which) that more squarely falls with other like-minded fans. Montooth, in 2017 (R.I.P.). us, “We don’t even have mojitos,” into a dive bar classification than With pinball, free popcorn Antonio’s draws an eclectic that makes us think Fred’s has any of the more modern outfits and an all-around super-friendly crowd in an easy atmosphere, figured out some booze-driven we’ve seen in the area — or staff, the Dog House is our go-to where peanut shells cover algorithm that has enabled the maybe it’s the ghosts of whiskey hangout on the northern end of the floor like a hay barn. And bar to transcend the place it guzzlers gone by. We can’t tell the 6-5-0. though their bar is well-stocked, exists in. It’s weird, and we can’t exactly, but there’s an inebriated 130 El Camino Real, the pitchers of beer are our totally explain it. Point is, Fred’s beauty to the Pioneer Saloon, so San Bruno; 650-588-5601 preference, and they go well with is as down-to-earth of a drinking if you’ve never been ... the enchilada plates served at the establishment as you’re gonna 2925 Woodside Road, Charles Russo is editor of attached Taqueria Azteca. find in the heart of the tech uni- Woodside; 650-851-8487 The Six Fifty, a sister website of Game day can get packed, verse, which is why we love it. Embarcadero Media covering the especially during playoffs, so ar- 2534 Old Middlefield Way, BUCKY’S COCKTAIL best of what to eat, see and do on rive early if you want a seat — or Mountain View; LOUNGE, SAN MATEO the Peninsula. For more, just set up on a beer keg and get 650-940-9838 Formerly a hang out for Bay go to thesixfifty.com. going on those peanuts. Meadow horse jockeys, Bucky’s 321 South California Ave., THE HARBOR BAR, still holds down the old-school Palo Alto; 650-321-2550 EL GRANADA atmosphere by opening at 6 a.m. A mainstay for local fishermen THE SADDLE ROOM BAR, working off the nearby boats, REDWOOD CITY big-wave surfers coming in from Not sure why exactly, but Mavericks and in-the-know the Saddle Room in Redwood tourists traversing Highway 1, City has always reminded us of the Harbor Bar (attached to the Moe’s Tavern from the Simpsons, Ketch Joanne Restaurant) is a which also means that we love it coastside institution known for and would like to hang out there its early-morning Bloody Mary’s on a nightly basis. The drinks and late-night blue-collar drink- here are strong, cheap and ing sessions. served without pretension. The space packs out quickly Billed out front as “The Last for Giants and 49ers games, and Neighborhood Bar in Redwood can morph into a rowdy local City,” the Saddle Room has a hangout on weekends as well as classic dive-bar feel that works weeknights. as a boozy antidote to the city’s Best of all, the Harbor Bar recent inclination toward craft serves a full menu from Ketch cocktail bars. We’ve adopted it as Joanne, so get it going on the a prime spot for Monday night

PALO ALTO WEEKLY „ MOUNTAIN VIEW VOICE „ THE ALMANAC „ 33 Everything you crave about home • Everything you love about Europe

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