Ethnic and Traditional Iranian Breads: Different Types, and Historical and Cultural Aspects

J Ethn Foods - (2017) 1e7

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Journal of Ethnic Foods

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Original article Ethnic and traditional Iranian breads: different types, and historical and cultural aspects

* Vahid Mohammadpour Karizaki

Chemical Engineering Department, Quchan University of Advanced Technology, Quchan, Iran article info abstract

Article history: Background: Bread making has a long history in Iran. Because of the inseparable relationship between Received 21 December 2016 Iranian people and bread, an increasingly wide variety of this healthy and nutritious food is prepared and Received in revised form consumed throughout the country. The present work aims at documenting and providing information 14 January 2017 about breads of Iranian cuisine. Accepted 20 January 2017 Methods: The required information was obtained via a direct face-to-face questionnaire-based survey Available online xxx among housewives, domestic people, and Iranian bakers. The statistical society was selected by random sampling among people from the top eight most populous cities in the country. Keywords: bread Results: More than 30 types of ethnic and traditional bread of Iranian cuisine are introduced in two main ﬁ ethnic food categories: the rst group includes breads that are consumed all around the country, and the second Iran group consists of those that are prepared in special regions, or by ethnic groups. Conclusion: The historical and cultural aspects of the Iranian foods showed that bread is the most common and popular food in the country. © 2017 Korea Food Research Institute. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/).

1. Introduction antioxidants, and micronutrients [10]. It is produced by cooking fermented dough, basically made from wheat flours, yeast, and Wheat is the most important and essential staple food crop in water [11,12]. the world [1,2]. Due to its good taste, low price, and high nutritional Several additives may be added to the wheat flour-yeast-water value, it is a food for more than 35% of the people around the world dough in order to increase shelf life of bread and improve its palat- [1,3,4]. Production of wheat by the top 50 countries was 548 million ability, quality, sensory perception, retainability, or even nutritional metric tons (MMT) in 2003, while the production increased to 696 value [9,11]. The most commonly used additives are vegetables (such MMT in 2013. China is the largest producer of wheat in the world as potato, onion, and spinach), fruits and nuts (such as raisins, wal- with production of more than 120 MMT. The other principal wheat nuts, and peanuts), seeds (such as poppy, cumin, and sesame), salt, producers are India, USA, Russian Federation, France, Canada, sugars, lipids, milk, egg, spices, and food starches [11]. In recent Germany, and Pakistan. Iran is also a big producer of wheat in Asia, decades, many researchers have worked on addition of different with production of more than 9 MMT [5]. ingredients to wheat flour-yeast-water dough [13e20]. Pontonio Bread is the most important wheat-based foodstuff that is et al investigated the use of sourdough starters for bread-making produced throughout the world [6]. It is also the most popular from eight Iranian wheat flours [7]. Coelho and Salas-Mellado product that is consumed in Iran [7]. The first bread was prepared (2015) added chia seeds to the formulation of wheat bread. They over 12,000 years in the past [8]. Findings show that the Egyptians, reduced the intake of saturated fatty acids in the new formulation. Greeks, Romans, and Babylonians consumed bread many decades Se˛czyk et al (2017) added flaxseed hulls to wheat flour dough. They BC [9]. Bread is known to be of global importance in nutrition, found that flaxseed hull is a beneficial food additive [21]. providing an important source of vitamins, dietary fibers, proteins, Also, many studies have addressed the incorporation of non- wheat flours in the bread-making process [22e27]. For example, 30% of wheat flour was replaced with sweet potato flour in the * Corresponding author. Chemical Engineering Department, Quchan University of bread-making process. Cardenas et al [28] showed that there is no Advanced Technology, Quchan, Khorasan Razavi, Iran. difference in protein quality or sensory properties of the wheat- E-mail addresses: [email protected], mohammadpour_vahid@yahoo. sweet potato bread. Olapade and oluwole [12] prepared bread com. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.01.002 2352-6181/© 2017 Korea Food Research Institute. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/ licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/).

Please cite this article in press as: Karizaki VM, Ethnic and traditional Iranian breads: different types, and historical and cultural aspects, Journal of Ethnic Foods (2017), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jef.2017.01.002 2 J Ethn Foods 2017; -:1e7 with composite flour of wheat, ach, that was enriched with 0e15% 3. Results and discussion cowpea flour. The potential of bread-making with composite flour of wheat-chia was investigated by Coelho and Salas-Mellado 3.1. Historical background (2015). Traditional and ethnic Iranian breads are famous for their taste, The Persian word for bread is nan. The Sasanian inscriptions of quality, and varieties [29]. There are two main reasons why Iranian the 3rd century have mentioned this word. Also, analyzing historical national cuisine has a wide variety of breads: (1) bread is consid- documents show that the word “nan” is mentioned in the Pahlavi ered as the first food of the Iranian people and its consumption in texts of the 9th century. A definition of sangakdone of the most the daily diet is very common; and (2) Iran as an integrated country popular Iranian breadsdwas found in the comprehensive Persian accommodates various ethnic groups. The ethnic and racial di- encyclopedia “Borhan-e-Ghate” in 1651. One of the oldest bakeries versity significantly includes fars, tork, kord, torkman, arab, balooch, of Tehran is located in Luti Saleh. It is the name of an old passage in gilak, lor, and tabari. The remainder consists of minor groups, Tehran that was founded in the 19th century during the Qajar mainly comprising armenians, assyrians, and georgians. In addition period. to countless kinds of bread that are prepared throughout the country, there are also numerous types of bread that are produced 3.2. Bread types by these ethnic groups. Sangak, barbari, taftoon, and lavash are the most popular breads in Iran [7,29]. Iranian breads are prepared in There are numerous types of breads in Iranian national cuisine. different composition, shape, size, texture, color, and flavor. Due to the wide varieties of products and different favorites of Recently, there has been increased attention to the issue of people, several categorizations of bread types may be used traditional and ethnic foods [30e37]. The main causes of using throughout the country. Iranian breads may be categorized in these foods have been mentioned in [2,38,39]. To the best of the different ways as below: (1) by the type of flour: wheat-based, author’s knowledge, few reports have been published about the barley-based, rice-based, etc.; (2) by size and volume: flat, raised, ethnic and traditional Iranian breads in literature. The present work and semiraised; (3) by method of cooking: hot stone-baked, aimed at introducing and documenting the most popular of the tandoori, oven-baked, steam-baked, etc.; (4) by the type of in- ethnic and traditional Iranian bread prepared in Iran. gredients added to wheat flour-water-yeast dough: sesame bread, potato bread, etc.; (5) by texture: doughy, soft, crispy, brittle, and 2. Materials and methods dry; and (6) by whether or not the bread contains sugar: sweet and nonsweet. Also, the Iranian breads can be classified into two major A random sample of people from the top eight most populous types according to the geographical distribution (observed spread cities in the country was selected. Tehran, Mashhad, Isfahan, Karaj, range) and popularity of breads throughout the country. Tabriz, Shiraz, Ahvaz, and Qom have the largest populations in Iran, The first group include those breads that are commonly pro- respectively. These cities have a combined population of about 20 duced and used in all urban and rural areas. Sangak, barbari, taftun, million people, almost 25% of the total population. and lavash are the most favorite. In other words, the breads of this A direct face-to-face questionnaire-based survey was conducted group are the most popular and may be baked in each district of the among housewives, domestic people, and bakers to find the country. More than 20 types of breads can be found in the first required information. Also, a data gathering process was completed group. The second group consists of breads that are prepared and by searching online databases, reviewing scientific publications and consumed in a special zone, or by an ethnic group. For example, literature, as well as by looking in historical documents. All the lako is the name of a popular bread that is baked in some parts pictures presented in this study were taken after buying breads along the Caspian Sea coast. Lako is usually unfamiliar for people of from the bakeries of the cities mentioned above. central and south provinces. Another example is the favorite bread

Table 1 The most popular and common breads consumed throughout Iran.

No. Persian name Geometric shape Bread type Price ($ per loaf Main ingredients Texture type Image of bread)

1 Barbari Pseudo-ellipse Nonsweet, semiraised 0.1e0.3 Wheat flour, water, salt, leaven, sesame Crispy, soft Fig. 2 2 Lavash Rectangle, pseudo-ellipse Nonsweet, flat 0.05e0.15 Wheat flour, water, salt, leaven Soft, crispy Fig. 4 3 Nan-brenji circle Sweet, semiraised 1.5e2.7 * Rice flour, egg yolk, cardamom, sugar Soft d 4 Nan-esfenaj Circle Nonsweet, semi-raised 0.4e0.5 Weat flour, water, salt, spinach Soft, doughy d 5 Nan-fantezi Pseudo-ellipse Nonsweet, raised 0.25e0.5 Wheat flour, water, salt, leaven Crispy d 6 Nan-ghagh (ghandi) Circle Sweet, flat 1.0e1.3 * Wheat flour, sugar, water, leaven, sesame, oil Crispy, brittle d 7 Nan-hamberger Circle Nonsweet, raised 0.07e0.15 Wheat flour, water, salt, baking powder Doughy d 8 Nan-jow Circle, rectangle Nonsweet, semi-raised 0.4e0.65 Barley flour, water, salt, leaven Stiff, dry Fig. 5A 9 Nan-khoshk Circle, rectangle Nonsweet, flat 0.1e0.15 Wheat flour, water, salt, leaven Dry, brittle d 10 Nan-mashini Rectangle, pseudo-Elipse Nonsweet, Flat 0.07e0.13 Wheat flour, water, salt, leaven Soft d 11 Nan-sabzijat circle nonsweet, semiraised 0.4e0.5 Wheat flour, water, salt, leaven, dill, parsley, tarragon Soft, doughy Fig. 5B 12 Nan-sandvichi Pseudo-ellipse Nonsweet, raised 0.07e0.25 Wheat flour, water, salt, leaven Soft, doughy Fig. 5C 13 Nan-sibzamini Circle Nonsweet, semiraised 0.4e0.5 Wheat flour, water, salt, leaven, potato Soft, doughy Fig. 5D 14 Nan-sokhari Rectangle, square Sweet, semiraised 1.1e1.5 * Wheat flour, water, salt, sugar, leaven, vanilla, oil Dry, brittle d 15 Nan-tost Rectangle, square Nonsweet, semiraised 1.2e1.7 * Wheat flour, water, salt, leaven, oil Soft d 16 Sangak Pseudo-triangle Nonsweet, semiraised 0.17e0.4 Wheat flour, water, salt, sour paste, sesame Crispy Fig. 1 17 shah-abbasi Circle Nonsweet, raised 0.13e0.26 Wheat flour, water, salt, leaven Doughy Fig. 5E 18 Shirmal Circle Sweet, semiraised 0.18e0.5 Wheat flour, water, sugar, vanilla, baking powder Doughy Fig. 5F 19 Taftun Circle Nonsweet, flat 0.13e0.26 Wheat flour, water, salt, leaven Crispy Fig. 3 20 Tanuri Circle, rectangle Nonsweet, flat 0.13e0.26 Wheat flour, water, salt, leaven Crispy d

* Per kg of bread.

Fig. 1. Two types of sangak bread. (A) Without sesame. (B) With sesame. This type is more expensive (about 30e50% more) than the bread without sesame. More people Fig. 3. One type of taftun bread. Before the baking process, the baker makes dimples are interested in sangak with sesame in comparison with the other type. Sometimes, all over the dough with fingertips or a metal jagged blade. Piercing the dough results in both sides of sangak are sprinkled with sesame. production of a homogenous bread. Also, excessive puffing will be prevented. of Kurdish people, called shelkine. Particularly, there are over 40 of the Iranian cuisine. Historical documents show that this bread types of ethnic and traditional breads that are prepared in Hor- was probably invented by the scholar and chief architect Shaykh mozgan province at the south of the country. Countless numbers of Bahai during the Safavid dynasty. What is unique about the sangak breads can be considered in this group. bread is the way of baking in a traditional oven. Sangak in Persian Table 1 introduces 20 types of traditional and ethnic breads means “pebble” or “small stone.” This bread is baked on a bed of hot prepared and consumed all around the Iran. It shows the Persian pebbles in an oven. At least two bakers are required to prepare name, geometric shape, and the price range of each bread. Addi- sangak. The dough is flattened on a slightly convex slab and is tionally, some information about the type of bread, main in- quickly thrust into the oven by the first person. Another baker gredients of dough, and hardness of texture are presented removes sangak with a double-prong fork or skewer after a few according to the different categorizations mentioned above. The minutes. Fig. 1 shows the two types of sangak bread. most important and popular breads of the first group are discussed below. 3.2.2. Barbari Barbars were an ethnic group indigenous to northeastern Iran 3.2.1. Sangak that borders Afghanistan. Barbari implies of or related to barbars. Sangak, a thin and flat bread, is one of the most common and Dehkhoda dictionary of Persian language has mentioned a type of popular breads in Iran. It is considered as one of the national breads bread that was baked by a barbars group called barbari. The barbars

Fig. 2. Some types of barbari bread. Fresh barbari can be used with all types of foods. The staling process results in a very hard and dry texture, and the bread can only be used with watery and soupy foods. (A) Soft, without sesame. (B) Crispy, with sesame. (C) Crispy, without sesame.

Fig. 4. Some types of lavash bread. Due to low thickness of different types of lavash, it is not correct to use this bread in watery and soupy foods. (A) Soft. (B) Crispy. (C) Very thin and crispy. This type of lavash will be dried quickly. The shelf-life of dried bread is several weeks. If lavash is put into plastic bags, not only will the bread not be dried, but also a pasty and very soft texture will be achieved.

Fig. 5. Some types of common breads. (A) Nan-jow. This is a barley-based bread. Although barley is cheaper than wheat in Iran, barley bread is more expensive than wheat bread due to low production of barley breads in the bakeries. (B) Nan-sabzijat. The required vegetables for preparation of this bread often include parsley, dill, and tarragon. (C) Nan- sandvichi. This is similar to baguette bead. (D) Nan-sibzamini. This bread alone can be used as a full meal. (E) Shah-abbasi. This bread is proper for those people who are interested in very soft and pasty breads. (F) Shirmal. This bread alone or accompanying butter or milk can be used as a full meal.

Table 2 The most common breads prepared in special region or by an ethnic group.

No. Persian name Province Major ingredients Main property/characteristic

1 Chepotin Semnan Wheat flour, water, salt Having long shelf-life 2 Kukeh East Azerbaijan Wheat flour, oil, salt, milk, turmeric, egg yolk Nourishing 3 Hashjin Ardabil Wheat flour, sugar, salt, oil, walnut, cinnamon Nourishing 4 Khitab West Azerbaijan Wheat flour, oil, salt, turmeric, onion, spinach Nourishing 5 Shelkineh Kordestan Wheat flour, oil, sugar, milk, turmeric, egg yolk, saffron One of the popular souvenir of this province 6 Tiry Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad Wheat flour, water, salt, oil Having long shelf-life 7 Fatir Khorasan (east, west, central), Wheat flour, water, sugar, salt, oil, walnut, cinnamon, sesame Having long shelf-life Markazi 8 Komaj Hamedan Wheat flour, water, oil, walnut, egg, sugar, butter, cinnamon Appetizing 9 Borsagh Lorestan, Kermanshah Wheat flour, oil, sugar, milk, turmeric, cumin Having simple recipe 10 Agardak Ghazvin, Zanjan, Hamedan Wheat flour, oil, egg yolk, milk, baking powder Having simple recipe 11 Balatovah Fars Wheat flour, water, egg, turmeric, sesame Nourishing 12 Tamushi Hormozgan Wheat flour, water, oil Appetizing

brought this bread to Tehran during the Qajar period. The baker that the word “taftan” has been used for several centuries. In the rests the ﬂattened dough on a table for preparation for the baking past, the only way of making taftun was the baking of bread dough process. Sprinkling seeds such as sesame over the dough is very in a tandoor or clay oven. However, the baking of taftun in a rotary common before baking. Finally, the dough is carefully inserted with oven or baking machine has been common in recent years. Some- a long wooden paddle into a heated oven. Some types of barbari times, taftun is made with a little salt or without it. Salt-free bread is bread are shown in Fig. 2. a proper food for those people who suffer from hypertension. One type of taftun bread is shown in Fig. 3.

3.2.3. Taftun Taftun or taftoon, is a Persian word that is derived from “tafan”, 3.2.4. Lavash meaning “heating”, “burning”,or“kindling.” Analyzing the literary Lavash is a soft and thin ﬂat bread that is prepared in a clay oven, documents and the Iranian national epics such as Shahname show rotary oven, baking machine, or tandoor. It is one of the most

Fig. 6. The common breads of ethnic groups. (A) Bishmeh bread. This is prepared by Torkman groups that live in the north of Iran. (B) Aghoz bread. Due to using sesame and walnut, aghoz is nutritious. It is a bread of Tabari groups. (C) Lako bread. This is a rice-based bread that is baked by the Gilak group in some parts along the Caspian Sea coast. (D) Tandir chureh bread. This is baked by Turk groups in northwestern Iran. (E) Kalaneh bread. This is bread of Kurdish people. Kalaneh is a delicious and appetizing bread. (F) Chezenak regho bread. This is baked by Lor groups. Guests are given freshly baked chezenak regho as a sign of hospitality. (G) Siah bread. Siah is a rice-based bread that is baked by Arab groups in west of Iran. (H) Halekary bread. This bread is prepared by the Balooch group in the east of Iran.

Table 3 Bread in Persian literature.

No. Poet's name Book Birth-death date The mentioned point

1 Ferdowsi Tusi Shahnameh c. 940e1020 If the breadwinner is a strange person, the family will be disintegrated. 2 Khwaja Abdullah Ansari Resale-ye Varedat 1006-1088 Do not withhold bread from the people. 3 Mawlan a Rumi Dıwan-e Shams 1207e1273 God provides us our daily bread. 4 Saadi Shirazi Gulistan c. 1210e1291 The satisﬁed person does not seek bread from others. 5 Ebne Yamin e 1286e1368 Life satisfaction is possible by satisfying own bread. 6 Saib Tabrizi Dıwan-e Saib 1601e1677 The satisﬁed person wets the dried bread in own blood. 7 Iraj Mirza Dıwan-e Iraj Mirza 1874e1926 Although the Sangak bread is not cotton candy, it is crisp and tastes pretty good. 8 Sohrab Sepehri Hasht Ketab 1928e1980 The happiness is possible by satisfying own bread.

widespread types of bread in Iran. The origin of lavash is most bread from the well-known poets, both modern and classics. Now, probably from Iran, according to the state of the encyclopedia of these points are an inseparable part of the Iranian culture. Jewish food. There is a tremendous variety in flavor and texture of Bread has a long history in Iran. A wide variety of this wheat- this bread in Iranian cuisine. Some types of lavash are so thin that based product is available in the Iranian cuisine. More than 30 they will be dried quickly and a brittle and hard texture will be types of the most popular traditional breads consumed in Iran were achieved. Also, lavash varies in size from about 30 cm in length to introduced and documented in this work. Also, the social and cul- over 0.5 m, and in shape from circular to oblong or square. Fig. 4 tural aspects of the Iranian breads were considered. Further studies shows some types of lavash bread. Other common types of breads on healthy, medicinal, and nutritional properties, and the baking consumed all around the country are shown in Fig. 5. methods of the Iranian breads are required. As mentioned earlier, there are numerous types of bread that are considered in the second group. Detailed studies are required to Conflicts of interest more precisely identify how many and which types of breads can be included in this group. Table 2 presents a list of 12 traditional and The author has no conflicts of interest. ethnic breads that are limited to special provinces of the country. It gives the Persian name, the main characteristic, and the major ingredients of each bread, and identifies the geographical areas in Acknowledgments which the special types of breads are baked. Also, Fig. 6 introduces the most common breads of the top eight most populous ethnic This work is supported by the Quchan University of Advanced groups in the country. 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