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Follow us on WeChat Now Advertising Hotline 400 820 8428 城市漫步北京 英文版 06 月份 国内统一刊号: CN 11-5232/GO China Intercontinental Press ISSN 1672-8025 JUNE 2015 2015 BEST BEIJING AWARDS VOTING ENDS JUNE 19 June 2015.indd 1 15/5/25 下午3:19 主管单位 :中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China 主办单位 :五洲传播出版社 地址 :北京市海淀区北三环中路31 号生产力大楼 B 座 602 邮编 100088 B-602 Shengchanli Building, No. 31 Beisanhuan Zhonglu, Haidian District, Beijing 100088, PRC http://www.cicc.org.cn 社长 President of China Intercontinental Press 李红杰 Li Hongjie 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department 邓锦辉 Deng Jinhui 编辑 Editor 刘扬 Liu Yang 发行 / 市场 Distribution / Marketing 黄静,李若琳 Huang Jing, Li Ruolin Editor-in-Chief Stephen George Deputy Editor Oscar Holland Senior Editors Marianna Cerini, Noelle Mateer Designers Tin Wu, Xiaoran Li Staff Photographer Holly Li Contributors Andrew Chin, Dr Jonathan Chatwin, Mia Li, Trevor Marshallsea, Sarah E. 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This month, the magazine is undergoing some significant changes of its own – with the departure of Senior Editor Karoline Kan and the arrival of new Food and Drink Editor shows and talks Noelle Mateer. Karoline was at the magazine when I arrived over two years ago – and it has been a great- throughout June, pleasure of mine to have worked alongside her during that period. A veracious journalist, - with a great skill for story telling (and an infectious sense of humor) – Karoline was respon alongside a whole sible for some of the magazine’s all-time great stories. From her long and nuanced explora tion of the plight of the city’s small Mahdi Muslim refugee community (‘Seeking Fortune and other host of free Asylum in Beijing,’ August 2014), to her personal account of family life inside the secretive - world of PLA military compounds (‘The Last of the Gilded Citadels,’ January 2014), Karoline’s work was not only a great joy to help develop and edit – but also central to the magazine’s at meals, drinks tempts to redefine its voice. Karoline is no doubt set for great things – and I look forward to one day having an opportunity to work with her again. discounts and Change is the topic of this month’s Imagazine Ching too. In our cover story (page 36), Dr Jonathan Chatwin explores the enduring influence of giveaways. All you China’s oldest philosophical text, the , or as it’s known in English, the Book of Changes. On pages 42 to 45, Oscar Holland and I attempt – withLonely varying Planet degrees of success – to apply its teachings to everyday life. have to do is scan On page 10, I brush off a dusty copy of the 2005 Guide to China and set about exploring the Sanlitun, Gulou and Dashilar of yesteryear – just how much can one city change the QR code below, in a decade? (Hint: a lot). On page 35, we welcome new music columnist Sophia Pederson, as she goes in search of follow us on WeChat the city’s psychedelic underground, while on pages 46 to 59, our newest member of the team, Noelle Mateer takes control of the Food and Drink section – and lets rip on new restaurant J Da Xia. and stay alert for So, until the next time your chance to win. Stephen George Editor-in-Chief Below left | A Beijing subway ticket uncovered from my 2005 copy of the Lonely Planet Left | The spirit of the age; me and Bugs Bunny kicking it in Gulou Below | New Food and Drink Editor Noelle Matter and outgoing Senior Editor Karoline Kan FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA Thats_Beijing twitter.com/Thats_Beijing facebook.com/pages/Thats-Beijing WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2015 | 3 QUOTE OF THE MONTH “It was a wild, wild place in those early days. There was nowhere else like it at the time. It was unique. No-one really knew what they were doing – everyone was just making it up as they went along” Koryo Tours founder, Nick Bonner, discusses the early days of Sanlitun’s bar scene, page 15 6 CITY 8 SHE’S A MODEL Can real-dolls plug Beijing’s gender9 CONFUCIAN imbalance? CREDIT Our agony uncle tackles mounting debts17 URBAN and difficult DICTIONARY truths Maimeng 8 something, sell it – if cuteness is worth 18 LIFE & STYLE 18 OPENS IN NEW WINDOW Founders of Sanlitun start-up, Pop-Up20 SHADY Beijing DEALS Our pick of summer sunglasses for him27 PORTRAIT and her OF CHINA 20 An essential look from novel- writing sommelier, George 28 ARTS 30 GO WEST Are Beijing quartet Chui Wan about32 CROSSING to break out? CONTINENTS Sino-Dutch duo AM444’s long- distance33 DEEPER relationship UNDERGROUND 30 Our new music column in association with Wooozy.cn 46 EAT & DRINK 47 BARTISANS Brewmaster and original hutong barman48 ACCOUNTING Xiao Biar FOR TASTE Unraveling some of the myths surrounding52 (ONE) STAR MSG QUALITY 47 Popstar Jay Chou opens a restaurant. And it’s bad 4 | JUNE 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM THE WRAP 10 THE LONELY DECADE We try navigating Beijing with a 2005 guidebook to see what’s changed and what still stands 36 DIVINE INTERVENTION soothsayer, I Ching We explore the classic text-cum- , to find out how it works and – more importantly – whether it still does 22 GRAND DESIGNS Chinese fashion is having a moment, but can it become a true style giant? WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2015 | 5 THE BUZZ RANDOM BATTLE OF NUMBER THE BANNED Large quantities of baijiu and research bacteria have joined a growing list of substances banned from the That’s the number of Weibo hits garnered Beijing subway. The regulations, updated last month, by Narendra Modi’s selfie with Premier Li now include a host of other prohibited items, such as Keqiang. Taken during a joint yoga/tai chi hair gel, kitchen knives, and a type of scented water used demonstration at the Temple of Heaven, the to repel mosquitoes and protect against heat-rash. post helped the Indian Prime Minister gain Small-scale Baijiu-drinking commuters will be exempt, over 165,000 followers on Chinese social with those carrying less than 2 liters of the liquor being media. Modi’s Twitter account boasts more given the all-clear to travel. Similar allowances will be than 12 million followers and is fuelled by made for passengers wishing to bring fewer than five viral pictures with politicians, celebrities cigarette lighters or under 10 boxes of matches into the and Bollywood stars.