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Follow us on WeChat Now Advertising Hotline 400 820 8428 城市漫步北京 英文版 06 月份 国内统一刊号: CN 11-5232/GO China Intercontinental Press ISSN 1672-8025 JUNE 2015 2015 BEST BEIJING AWARDS VOTING ENDS JUNE 19 June 2015.indd 1 15/5/25 下午3:19 主管单位 ：中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China 主办单位 ：五洲传播出版社 地址 ：北京市海淀区北三环中路31 号生产力大楼 B 座 602 邮编 100088 B-602 Shengchanli Building, No. 31 Beisanhuan Zhonglu, Haidian District, Beijing 100088, PRC http://www.cicc.org.cn 社长 President of China Intercontinental Press 李红杰 Li Hongjie 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department 邓锦辉 Deng Jinhui 编辑 Editor 刘扬 Liu Yang 发行 / 市场 Distribution / Marketing 黄静，李若琳 Huang Jing, Li Ruolin Editor-in-Chief Stephen George Deputy Editor Oscar Holland Senior Editors Marianna Cerini, Noelle Mateer Designers Tin Wu, Xiaoran Li Staff Photographer Holly Li Contributors Andrew Chin, Dr Jonathan Chatwin, Mia Li, Trevor Marshallsea, Sarah E. Weber, Qiao Zhi, Karoline Kan, Fahy Yen, Jiaming Wang, Randy Richardson, Sophi Pederson Urbanatomy Media Shanghai (Head office) 上海和舟广告有限公司 上海市蒙自路 169 号智造局 2 号楼 305-306 室 邮政编码 : 200023 Room 305-306, Building 2, No.169 Mengzi Lu, Shanghai 200023 电话 : 021-8023 2199 传真 : 021-8023 2190 (From February 13) Beijing 广告代理 : 上海和舟广告有限公司 北京市东城区东直门外大街 48 号东方银座 C 座 9G 邮政编码 : 100027 48 Dongzhimenwai Dajie Oriental Kenzo (Ginza Mall) Building C Room 9G, Dongcheng District, Beijing 100027 电话 : 010-8447 7002 传真 : 010-8447 6455 Guangzhou 上海和舟广告有限公司广州分公司 广州市越秀区麓苑路 42 号大院 2 号楼 610 房 邮政编码 : 510095 Room 610, No. 2 Building, Area 42, Lu Yuan Lu, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou, PRC 510095 电话 : 020-8358 6125, 传真 : 020-8357 3859-800 Shenzhen 广告代理 : 上海和舟广告有限公司广州分公司 深圳市福田区彩田路星河世界大厦 C1-1303 C1-1303, Galaxy Century Building, Cai Tian Road, Futian District, Shenzhen 电话 : 0755-8623 3220, 传真 : 0755-8623 3219 Operations Manager Ning Zhu Sales Manager Louise Chen Sales Emma Cao, Lucy Denton, Morri Qin, Christina Zhuang Marketing Manager Justin Culkin Marketing Assistant Vivid Zhu Distribution Manager Yang Juan 朝阳店 CHAOYANG PARK STORE Web & IT Amul Qiu, Ken Zhou TEL: (010) 65016249 \ 65931220 东湖别墅店 EAST LAKE STORE West Gate of Chaoyang Park, Management TEL: (010) 84511168 Chaoyang District B1 of East Lake Villa Club, Dongcheng 朝阳区农展南路 1 号（朝阳公园西门南 60 米） CEO Leo Zhou District Financial Manager Laura Lu 东城区东湖别墅东湖俱乐部地下一层 三里屯店 SANLITUN STORE HR Manager Penny Li TEL: (010) 64616928 \ 64635156 观湖国际店 GREEN LAKE STORE No.6 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang Digital Project Manager Bridget O’Donnell TEL: (010) 59283525 \ 59283723 District A1 Building of GreenLake International 朝阳区三里屯北小街 6 号 General enquiries (010) 8447 7002 Apartment, Chaoyang District Editorial (010) 8447 7069 [email protected] 朝阳区观湖国际甲 1 号楼 芳草地店 RITAN STORE TEL: (010) 85630626 Events (010) 8447 7069 [email protected] 新城国际店 CENTRAL PARK STORE No.4 Ritan North Road, Chaoyang Distribution/Subscription (010) 8447 7002 [email protected] TEL: (010) 65336791 District Marketing (010) 8447 7603 [email protected] 朝阳区日坛北路 4 号 No. 101, Tower 17, Central Park, NO.6, Advertising (010) 8447 7073 [email protected] Chaowai Ave. Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝外大街 6 号新城国际 17 栋 101 香江花园店 RIVERA GARDEN STORE Fax (010) 8447 6455 TEL: (010) 84701557 \ 84704095 海晟店 SEASONS PARK STORE No.1 Laiguangying East Road, TEL: (010) 64175815 Chaoyang District First floor of Dongchengyishu No.6, 朝阳区来广营东路 1 号 Shizipo Street, Chaoyang District 朝阳区十字坡街 6 号东城逸墅 1 层 建外 SOHO 店 JIANWAI SOHO STORE TEL: (010) 58692326 \ 58692253 广告经营许可证 : 京海工商广字第 8069 号 逸盛阁店 EAST AVENUE STORE 0413 of Building 4, Jianwai SOHO, 法律顾问 : 大成律师事务所 魏君贤律师 TEL: (010) 64602658 No. 39 Middle Dongsanhuan Road, Legal Advisor: Wei Junxian, Dacheng Law Firm Room 108 ,East Avenue, No.10 Chaoyang District 国际标准刊号 ISSN 1672-8025 Xindong Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环中路 39 号建外 SOHO4 号 朝阳区新东路 10 号逸盛阁 108 室 楼 0413 国内统一刊号 CN 11-5232/GO 定价 : 25.00 元 邮发代号 : 2-930 部分非卖品 , 仅限赠阅 2 | JUNE 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITOR’S DEALS NOTE We‘re giving away tickets to some of JUNE the very biggest LIVING IN A CITY LIKE BEIJING IS A GOOD REMINDER THAT NOTHING IS PERMANENT, Beijing events, parties, openings, or to quote the ancient Greek philosopher Heraclitus: everything flows and nothing stays. This month, the magazine is undergoing some significant changes of its own – with the departure of Senior Editor Karoline Kan and the arrival of new Food and Drink Editor shows and talks Noelle Mateer. Karoline was at the magazine when I arrived over two years ago – and it has been a great- throughout June, pleasure of mine to have worked alongside her during that period. A veracious journalist, - with a great skill for story telling (and an infectious sense of humor) – Karoline was respon alongside a whole sible for some of the magazine’s all-time great stories. From her long and nuanced explora tion of the plight of the city’s small Mahdi Muslim refugee community (‘Seeking Fortune and other host of free Asylum in Beijing,’ August 2014), to her personal account of family life inside the secretive - world of PLA military compounds (‘The Last of the Gilded Citadels,’ January 2014), Karoline’s work was not only a great joy to help develop and edit – but also central to the magazine’s at meals, drinks tempts to redefine its voice. Karoline is no doubt set for great things – and I look forward to one day having an opportunity to work with her again. discounts and Change is the topic of this month’s Imagazine Ching too. In our cover story (page 36), Dr Jonathan Chatwin explores the enduring influence of giveaways. All you China’s oldest philosophical text, the , or as it’s known in English, the Book of Changes. On pages 42 to 45, Oscar Holland and I attempt – withLonely varying Planet degrees of success – to apply its teachings to everyday life. have to do is scan On page 10, I brush off a dusty copy of the 2005 Guide to China and set about exploring the Sanlitun, Gulou and Dashilar of yesteryear – just how much can one city change the QR code below, in a decade? (Hint: a lot). On page 35, we welcome new music columnist Sophia Pederson, as she goes in search of follow us on WeChat the city’s psychedelic underground, while on pages 46 to 59, our newest member of the team, Noelle Mateer takes control of the Food and Drink section – and lets rip on new restaurant J Da Xia. and stay alert for So, until the next time your chance to win. Stephen George Editor-in-Chief Below left | A Beijing subway ticket uncovered from my 2005 copy of the Lonely Planet Left | The spirit of the age; me and Bugs Bunny kicking it in Gulou Below | New Food and Drink Editor Noelle Matter and outgoing Senior Editor Karoline Kan FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA Thats_Beijing twitter.com/Thats_Beijing facebook.com/pages/Thats-Beijing WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2015 | 3 QUOTE OF THE MONTH “It was a wild, wild place in those early days. There was nowhere else like it at the time. It was unique. No-one really knew what they were doing – everyone was just making it up as they went along” Koryo Tours founder, Nick Bonner, discusses the early days of Sanlitun’s bar scene, page 15 6 CITY 8 SHE’S A MODEL Can real-dolls plug Beijing’s gender9 CONFUCIAN imbalance? CREDIT Our agony uncle tackles mounting debts17 URBAN and difficult DICTIONARY truths Maimeng 8 something, sell it – if cuteness is worth 18 LIFE & STYLE 18 OPENS IN NEW WINDOW Founders of Sanlitun start-up, Pop-Up20 SHADY Beijing DEALS Our pick of summer sunglasses for him27 PORTRAIT and her OF CHINA 20 An essential look from novel- writing sommelier, George 28 ARTS 30 GO WEST Are Beijing quartet Chui Wan about32 CROSSING to break out? CONTINENTS Sino-Dutch duo AM444’s long- distance33 DEEPER relationship UNDERGROUND 30 Our new music column in association with Wooozy.cn 46 EAT & DRINK 47 BARTISANS Brewmaster and original hutong barman48 ACCOUNTING Xiao Biar FOR TASTE Unraveling some of the myths surrounding52 (ONE) STAR MSG QUALITY 47 Popstar Jay Chou opens a restaurant. And it’s bad 4 | JUNE 2015 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM THE WRAP 10 THE LONELY DECADE We try navigating Beijing with a 2005 guidebook to see what’s changed and what still stands 36 DIVINE INTERVENTION soothsayer, I Ching We explore the classic text-cum- , to find out how it works and – more importantly – whether it still does 22 GRAND DESIGNS Chinese fashion is having a moment, but can it become a true style giant? WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | JUNE 2015 | 5 THE BUZZ RANDOM BATTLE OF NUMBER THE BANNED Large quantities of baijiu and research bacteria have joined a growing list of substances banned from the That’s the number of Weibo hits garnered Beijing subway. The regulations, updated last month, by Narendra Modi’s selfie with Premier Li now include a host of other prohibited items, such as Keqiang. Taken during a joint yoga/tai chi hair gel, kitchen knives, and a type of scented water used demonstration at the Temple of Heaven, the to repel mosquitoes and protect against heat-rash. post helped the Indian Prime Minister gain Small-scale Baijiu-drinking commuters will be exempt, over 165,000 followers on Chinese social with those carrying less than 2 liters of the liquor being media. Modi’s Twitter account boasts more given the all-clear to travel. Similar allowances will be than 12 million followers and is fuelled by made for passengers wishing to bring fewer than five viral pictures with politicians, celebrities cigarette lighters or under 10 boxes of matches into the and Bollywood stars.
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    Tokyo's Culture Is Still Very Traditional with Its Customs, Food and Dress Still

    The Bronx Journal/February 2002 B 8 SHARON RODRIGUEZ Bronx Journal Staff Reporter okyo is located in the Kanto region on one of the four major islands of the archipelago of Japan. There are about 12 million people in this city, which is about 4 million more than the population of its sister city, New York. And just like New York City, Tokyo is considered to be one of the greatest cities in the world. This city has many charms and attractions hidden within. The urban landscape is an interesting mixture of old and new. It has everything a big city has, such as megamalls, FILE restaurants, major corporations in modern skyscrapers all around. You can find almost everything you have in NYC, from McDonald’s to Tower Record, and people you see on This city is located the streets of Tokyo are just as fashionable and crazy as New Yorkers. Many enjoy the lively nightlife of Tokyo, where streets on one of the four are bright with thousands of neon signs. Since Tokyo is a relatively safe place with a low crime rate, many bars and restaurants are open all night. major islands of Mixed with all the fashionable, high-tech stores, there File are many traditional sites in Tokyo, including a gorgeous Thai and Indian, and of course, the best sushi. the archipelago of palace, Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines with intricate Tokyo’s Central Wholesale Market, commonly known as architecture. Tsukiji fish market, is the largest fish market in Japan and Most Japanese people are not religious, but many reli- handles a larger volume of seafood than any other market Japan, in the Kanto gious rituals and customs have been adopted throughout in the world.