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ARTGENE zamTarizamTari // WINTeRWINTeR 20112011 ##33 redaqtori: Tamar meliqiSvili 4-5 redaqtoris werili// Jurnalisti: nuca erisTavi FROm THe eDITOR

dizaineri: nia mSvidobaZe 6 -17 ostatebi foto: mASTeRS giorgi baramiZe maria lanevski sofi siTveli 18 - 21 Targmani: mzis margalitebi marina qoreli THe PeARLS OF THe SUN

editor: Tamar melikishvili 22 - 25 Jounalist: qarTuli xelnawerebi Nutsa eristavi GeORGIAN mANUScRIPTS Designer: Nia mshvidobadze

Photo: 26 - 39 Giorgi Baramidze saqarTvelo nawili Cemi gulisa maria Lanevski sufra - svetlana sabuckaia - buaCiZe Sophie Sitwell - PIece OF my HeART SUPRA - Svetlana Sabutskaia - Buachidze Translation: marina Koreli 40 - 51 mezRvauris monaTxrobi aleqsandre WavWavaZe STORIeS OF THe SAILOR Alexander chavchavadze saavtoro uflebebi daculia. JurnalSi gamo- qveynebuli masalebis gamoyeneba redaqciis nebarTvis gareSe akrZalulia. kvartaluri Jurnali art-geni.

tel: +995 32 91 70 78, [email protected], [email protected], www.artgeni.ge veni mogzaurobis ganmavlobaSi gvqonda bedniereba, piradad gavc- CnobodiT im adamianebs, romelTa ojaxebSic ase kargad igrZnoba namd- vili mTis Taflis gemo, xis suni da gavarvarebuli foladis simtkice. yvela am adamianis kera cal-cal- ke da erTad saqarTveloa, romlis SegrZnebac qalaqSi ase rTulia. am nomerSi warmodgenili por- tretebi mcdelobaa yvela moqalaqeSi gavaRviZoT survili ara mxolod maTi gacnobisa, aramed piradad stum- robisa, adgilze, maT sofelSi, maT samyaroSi. redaqtoris werili Tamar meliqiSvili

uring our journey we were lucky enough to meet the kind of people who Dmade their family homes our home, where one can experience the taste of real mountain honey, the smell of wood and the incredible tranquility. each one of these people’s hearths unites Georgia, something that is so diffi cult to have a real sense and understanding of in a city. The portraits presented in this edition are an attempt to arouse your interest, not only to get acquainted with them through the texts and photographs, but also to visit these people at home in their villages and enter into their world. Tamar melikishvili THe eDITOR’S LeTTeR THe eDITOR’S

4 5 akaki laSqaraSvili eze muSaobis niWi winaprebisa- gan gadmomeca, Cemi papa, romel- qarTuli xalxuri ic 1916 wels daRupula, Turme sakravebis ostati. xis saxlebs awyobda avlabarSi, xsomxuri dramis Teatris win rom dab.1938 q. TbilisSi. MASTERS saxlia misi brigadis mier yofila agebuli. im dros TbilisSi ori vaso yofila cnobili, TeTri vaso, romelic CxeiZe iyo gvarad da meore AKAKI LASHKARASHVILI wiTeli vaso, romelic papaCemi iyo. maT TavTavianTi brigadebi hyoliaT master of Georgian musical instru- da erTmaneTs lamazi saxlebis Sene- ments baSi ejibrebodnen. rac Seexeba musika- Born 1938 in Tbilisi. lur sakravebs, arsebobda mxatvruli nawarmisa da suvenirebis fabrika, romelic daixura 1968 wels, ai iq vi- muSave 1962 wlidan daxurvamde, mas y great grandfather, who died in mere dRemde damoukideblad vmuSaob. 1916, was a famous carpenter and ise bavSvobidan fandurs vukrav. deda the house in front of the Armenian xevsuri qali myavda, imaTTvis piani- theater in Avlabari was built by him. noc fanduria da yvelaferi. xalxuri mThey say in those days there were two Va- sakravebi eris sulieri saxea, am mxriv sos in Tbilisi. White Vaso, who last name was bevr did erebze mdidari varT. Cven 13 chkheidze and Red Vaso, who was my great saxis instrumenti gagvaCnia, erTmane- grand father. They both had their own team of Tze unikaluri da TviTmyofadi, rac carpenters and had a sort of competition go- gadaSenebulia imaTze rom araferi ing on. As for me, I ended up making tradition- vTqva is kidev sxvaa. dResdReobiT al musical instruments. There was a factory vamzadeb yvelanair qarTul sakravs: producing artistic souvenirs, which shut down fandurs, Congurs, salamurs, , in 1968 where I worked for 10 years. Since stvirs, gudastvirs. axla vapireb fSa- then I’m self-employed. I played the vuri stviris damzadebas, svanur Cangs- from an early age. my mum was Hevsuretian Wunirs, raWul xemian sakravs Wianurs, and for them even a piano was a panduri. Tra- romelic samwuxarod aRar moixmare- ditional musical instruments show the spiritual ba. am yvelafers erT patara sardafSi face of the nation and in that sense we are far vamzadeb, sadac davixrCe ra. samwuxar- richer then many bigger countries. We have od moswavleebi ara myavs _ ise, erTi thirteen remaining varieties of musical instru- 3-4 bavSvs aviyvandi, axalgazrdebi yve- ment in Georgia and each one is unique within lafers advilad swavloben, magram its own right. Unfortunately there were more, ra vqna, Zalian pataraa Cemi sardafi, which no longer exist. I make almost every- marto samuSaod erTi 150 kv.m. haeriv- one of these instruments: panduri, chonguri, iT mWirdeba. Cems Svilebs musikaluri , duduki, stviri, gudastviri, pshavian ganaTleba aqvT miRebuli, magram arc stviri, Svanetian changi, , Rachvelian erTi ar misdevs Cems saqmianobas, Tu chianuri, (which sadly is not used anymore). moveswari iqneb imaT Svilebs mainc I create all of these in my little cellar where I vaswavlo. can hardly breathe. Unfortunately I have no students but could have managed 3-4 young- sters. As I said, my cellar is tiny and I’m in desperate need of space. my children all have

a musical education but none of them have ostatebi taken up my craft, so my only hope is that my future grandchildren will.

7 Temur arZnaZe - meWipone cxovrobs sofel dandaloSi. (qedis raioni). e-4 klasSi viyavi, pirvelad vinme was in the fourth grade at school the fi rst time Saban beriZis Wiponis xma rom gav- I heard the magical sound of the chiponi and igone, ise momxibla am uZvelesma was so enchanted, that I became determined TemUR ARDZNADZe instrumentma, rom misi gakeTe- to make one for myself. First I made a sala- mbis survili aRar masvenebda. jer sala- muri (a Georgian wind pipe) and as I didn’t have a chiponi player and craftsman, Village of Dandalo, Keda region I muri gavakeTe, Semdeg gudis uqunlobis sheep skin bag, I was mounting it on to children’s gamo saTamaSo buStze davabi salamuri, balloons and imitating how to play it. So that’s how

MASTERS rom gamebera da damekra. ase daiwyo yve- it all started….. laferi, mosmeniT da dakvirvebiT... Here I’d like to pay my respects by remem- madlierebiT minda gavixseno vaso bering Vaso Iremadze, an old chiponi player, who iremaZe, Zveli meWipone, romelsac mTel was the best in and who taught me a lot.

aWaraSi badali ara hyolia, misganac bev- Temur Ardznadze is still trying to perfect ri ram viswavle... his craft of making chiponis, is a keen performer, Temur arZnaZe dRemde muSaobs has his own group and never misses any opportu- Wiponis damzadebis daxvewaze, ukravs nity to participate in all kinds of traditional festivals araCveulebrivad, hyavs gundi da ocnebobs and concerts in Adjara, so that Adjarians will never rac SeiZleba xSirad miiRos monawileo- forget the magical sound of the chiponi. ba koncertebsa da festivalebSi, ar daavi-

wyos qarTvelebs Wiponis lamazi xmovane- ostatebi ba.

8 9 jaxSi sami da-Zma viyaviT, mere gavmravldiT, sami Svi- li myavs da eqvsi SviliSvi- li, mWedloba mamaCemisgan ismailisgan viswavle. Cemi biWebico dainteresebulebi iyvnen, mexmare- here were three brothers and three sisters bodnen, magram damefantnen, exla erTi in our family, now I’ve got three children

myavs sofelSi, manqanac hyavs da xelobac of my own and 6 grandchildren. my father ostatebi kargad icis. aq unda iyos, colic aq unda Ismael taught me how to be a “smithy” and movuyvano. sofelSi samWedlo yovelT- thenT my boys became interested, until two of them vis saWiroa, cxoveli Cveni marCenalia, left the village and now only one remains with me cxensac da xarsac nali sWirdeba, xelis and he is the master of the craft. He has to be here iaraRebze, rom araferi vTqva culs, na- and he promised to get married here. A blacksmith jaxs, Toxs axlac vakeTeb; adre feCsac va- is always needed in the village, as we have horses keTebdi ubralod fizikurad aRar Semi- and bulls, which need shoes, not to mention all Zlia. ai es sabervelic Cemi gakeTebulia the other work tools like axes, shovels and hoes. oRond CvenTan qvanaxSiri ar aris da xis I even made steel ovens, but now I’m running out naxSirs viyeneb. saqme samWedloSi yov- of steam─ getting too old ─but I still managed to elTvis aris. rac Seexeba Semosavals aba make this bellow. As we don’t have coal here, we ra giTxraT, vSromobT, magram fuli aq use charcoal. There is always something to do in a yvelas uWirs, xalxs araferi aqvs da me ra forge, but as for my income, there is not much you unda momcen. can earn here. People around here are desper- dagvecala sofeli. me aq dabade- ate themselves for money, so what can I ask for? buli, gazrdili da daberebuli kaci var, Our village emptied out. I was born here, grew up mtkiva guli dacariebul sofels rom and grew old here. I feel so much pain in my heart vxedav. es erTi biWi, romelic aqa myavs when I see our empty village. even my son, who gaqcevaze iyo da Cemi gulisTvis darCa. was desperate to leave, stayed just for my sake. erTs visurvebdi: neta xalxis ukan dab- I have one dream, to live just long enough to see runebas momaswro da mere Tu ginda, mom- people return and then I can die in peace. kla. MASTERS WiWiko lobJaniZe - mWedeli dab. 1921 wels. cxovrobs raWaSi, sofel RebSi. cHIcHIKO LOBJANIDZe - BLAcKSmITH Born in 1921 Ghebi village .

10 11 xalgazrdobaSi 40 weli manqanaze vmuSaobdi. rac pensiaze gavedi, viyide ram- denime ojaxi futkri da mas mere vaSeneb. miyvars mefutkreoba. maqvs Tafli, zogs vCuqni, zogs vyidi. karg Taflis arays vamzadeb. Cven varT qedis raio- nis sofel namonastrevidan, imaze maRla mamali aRar yivis, magram futkris mosaSeneblad Zalian kargi pirobebia. CvenTan cacxvi da wabli xarobs, bal- aaxebia - maTi yvavilisgan gakeTebuli Tafli Zalze sasargebloa janmrTelobisaT- MASTERS vis da samkurnalod gamoiyeneba. bevri akacia movaSene da kidev minda movaSeno. .me- futkreobis tradicia mamaCemisgan gadmomeca da mas ki ufro Zvelebisgan, gamigonia ,,ufrosi mokvda da skebic gayvao - ase ityvian xolme mefutkreze, romelsac Tavisi saqmis gamgrZelebeli aRar rCeba.

myavs ojaxi da yvelaze metad is maxarebs, rom Cems SviliSvilebs ainteresebT da moswonT Cemi saqmianoba, mexmarebian da swavloben. wynarad var, isini ukve me- futkreebi arian. GURAm TURmANIDZe Bee keeper Namonastrevi village, Keda region.

s a young man I worked as a driver but when I retired, I bought a couple of bee families and since then I have farmed them. I love bee keeping, as I always have honey to give as gifts or sell and I make excellent honey vodka too. We are from the village of Namonastrevi and it is said that our village is so high up that even Athe cock does not crow here but as for the bees they are in an excellent habitat. We have lots of chestnuts, lime trees and wild fl owers. Honey made from these fl owers carry high medicinal properties, which I also grow for this purpose. I inherited the ways of bee keeping from my father and he did from the other elders. We have a saying ‘the old one died and took his bee hives with him’- we say this about the man who hasn’t got anybody to inherit his job. I have a large family and my grandchildren take great interest in what I do. I can be peaceful because they are the bee keepers now. ostatebi guram TurmaniZe mefutkre. cxovrobsQqedis raionSi.

13

avSvobidan vewevi mefutkreobas, metad mniSvnelovan da RvTiur dargs. mTelma ’ve been a beekeeper since I can remember and I’m still continuing this work which is blessed by god. ojaxma viciT futkari da erTad vmuSaobT futkarTan. Cven gvyavs grZelxorTumiani All my family knows about bees and helps me out. We cultivate Georgian long proboscis bees, which are qarTuli futkari, romelic ganTqmulia mTel msoflioSi. Iworld famous. ZiriTadad safutkreebi gvyavs onSi, aq vazamTrebT, mere migvyavs glolaSi, mere ma- The majority of our beehives are kept in Oni, where bees stay over winter. Then we take them to Gnola bmisonis uReltexilze adgil oqoyanaSi. Cemi Tafli aris unikaluri, nebismieri Tafli and afterwards over the mamisoni Ridge to Okrokhana. The honey we produce is unique, as most of the honey SeiZleba iyos naturaluri, erT adgilze mopovebuli, magram xarisxiT aTjer ufro nat- on the market, even though it’s natural, is gathered from one location but honey produced by nomadic bees

uraluria Tafli, roca ewevi momTabareobas, migyavs sxvadasxva adgilze da asjer meti is ten times more superior and has extra medicinal qualities, as it contains nectar from a massive variety of ostatebi mcenaridan iRebs Tafls. rac onSi, glolaSi, uweraSi, uReltexilze mcenarea, yvela Cem plants. All the plants that are in Oni, Gnola, Utsera and mamisoni Ridge are present in my honey and that’s TaflSia, swored amitom aris is unikaluri. myavs ojaxi: erTi gogo da tyupi biWi. Cveni what makes it so exceptional. my twin boys and daughter are a great help in this intensive work. Our production saqme Zalian Sromatevadia da mTeli ojaxi erTad varT CarTuli.. is increasing every year and today we are in a situation to export our honey abroad.

KLImeNTI BITSISHVILI - BeeKeePeR klimenti melitonis Ze biwiSvili - mefutkre. Born in1937, Gnola village, Oni region dab. 1937 wels. O sofel gnolaSi. amJamad cxovrobs onSi. MASTERS

16 17 gandobili saidumlo dRemde moitana, beauty), old cupboards, an antique chandelier in the mec imis imediT, rom qeTevan abaSiZe, kita shape of a crown and the historical wall covered with abaSiZis SvilTaSvili, tkbili saidumlos scriptures. The portraits of our revered ancestors – ( orbelianebis samefo kanfetis - ,,mzis King erekle, Tekle Batonishvili and Vakhtang Orbeliani mzis margalitebi margalitebis) mcire nawils mainc gaman- are all an inseparable part of this house. The rooms dobda, pirdapir mas vestumre. high ceilings almost made me dizzy. Ketevan told me saxlSi SesvlisTanave Cemi respo- they had made such high ceilings to make it possible dentebi wuTiT usulo sagnebi gaxdnen, to ride into the house on horse. This is when I truly felt the grandness of that era and for a short time I imag- RmerTma icis, risi momswreni arian...: ined myself at a large table together with Ilia chavcha- erekle mefis xis skivri, sadafis magida, vadze who had visited this house shortly before his romelmac veneciaSi silamazis konkurze

death. TRADITIONS FAmILy gaimarjva, Zveli karadebi, uZvelesi There was little time left before New year and gvirgvinis formis WaRi da warwerebiT Keto, in order to create the New year’s spirit, told me aWrelebuli istoriuli kedeli. Rir- about the “Pearls of the Sun”… seuli winaprebis mefe erekles, Tekle ba- I remember the New year’s preparation, when toniSvilis da vaxtang orbelianis por- my grandmother was putting the walnut pieces on the THe PeARLS OF THe SUN tretebic, am saxlis ganuyofeli nawilia. small balls of dough (according to my perception at oTaxebis maRalma Werma ki lamis Tavbru that time) on each side and then stored them in a cool damaxvia, qeTevanis TqmiT am simaRle Weri area. Then the long process of preparation, of the Tavis droze imisaTvis gaukeTebiaT, sax- melted sugar would start. At this time I knew that there lSi cxenebiT, rom yofiliyo Semosvla should be silence and that I should be nowhere near SesaZlebeli, ai am frazis Semdeg kargad the kerosene stove where this amber colored sugar SevigrZeni diadi epoqis siZvirfase da was cooking on a low heat. cota xniT Cemi Tavi am saxlSi sikvdilis The authors of the secret recipe were the daughter of the poet Vakhtang Orbeliani, mariam Jam- win, ramdenime dRiT adre stumrad mo- bakur-Orbeliani and her cook Pelagia. Peliagia was sul ilia WavWavaZesTan erTad did magi- sent to Paris previously for culinary classes by the Or- dasTan warmovidgine. belianis and after this they started creating the “Pearls axal wlamde cota dro rCeboda of the Sun” with the famous Grenoble wall-nuts. da qeToc saaxalwlo ganwyobis Sesaqm- each peace of a wall-nut needed to be cleaned nelad ,,mzis margalitebze miyveboda... with a special brush- continued her story Ketevan, so - maxsendeba saaxalwlo samzadisi, roca that the nuts are dust free , then the ground nuts are bebiaCemi, comis patara burTulebze, rolled up into small balls and after dipping them with bilisis erT-erTi Zveli ub- stopped near an old building on Kita Abashidze (maSindeli Cemi warmosaxviT) aqeT-iqiT the special fork into the melted sugar, they are placed nis, axlandeli kita abaSiZis Street in one of the old districts in Tbilisi, near the nigvzis lebnebs awepebda da gril adgi- on a marble tray covered lightly with oil. saxelobis quCis Zvel sax- house where mariam Jambakur-Orbeliani and oth- Now when Ketino makes the candies herself, lTan SevCerdi, im saxlTan, ers lived and created history with their lives. The las inaxavda. Semdeg iwyeboda mamalos sadac cxovrobdnen da Tavi- IGeorgian public fi gure and benefactor, Ivane Javakh- TanTi cxovrebiT istorias qmnidnen: mari- ishvili, the great Georgian historian and founder of am jambakur-orbeliani, qarTveli sazoga- Tbilisi State University, Kita Abashidze, Georgian liter- do moRvawe da qvelmoqmedi, Tbilisis ary scholar and political fi gure and Guram Rcheulish- saxelmwifo universitetis damfuZneneli, vili, the writer. It is hard to fi nd a true Georgian, who didi qarTveli istorikosi ivane javax- does not know about these admirable people’s lives and merits which were dedicated to the Georgian na- iSvili, qarTveli literaTuraTmcodne, tion, however very few know about the traditions kept kritikosi, publicisti da sazogado da by their descendants, which imply they safeguarded politikuri moRvawe kita abaSiZe da mw- the heritage of these great people and protected their erali guram rCeuliSvili. Znelad Tu family secrets. Such people are Ketevan Abashidze, moinaxeba namdvili qarTveli, romelmac who passed down to us the family traditions and se- ar icis am Rvawlmosili adamianebis gan- crets discovered by her ancestors. Therefore I hoped vlili gzisa da maTi damsaxurebebis Ses- that Ketevan Abashidze(the great granddaughter of axeb qarTveli eris winaSe, Tumca cotam Kita Abashidze), would share the sweet secret with me Tu icis maTi STamomavlebis mier Cvenamde of the Orbeliani royal candy -“The Pearls of the Sun”, moRweuli im tradiciebis Sesaxeb, romel- and so I decided to visit her. ic am bumberazi adamianebis danatovaris As soon as I stepped inside the house, I movla-patronobiT iwyeba da ojaxuri was greeted by inanimate objects - God knows what saidumloebis SenaxviT mTavrdeba... they have experienced: The wooden chest which be- aseTi gaxlavT qeTevan abaSiZe, vinc longed to the King erekle, the table made of mother of ojaxuri tradiciebi ojaxuri tradiciebi da winaprebis mier pearl(which won a prize in Venice for its outstanding 18 momzadebis xangrZlivi procesi, am dros she knows why she had to be so careful while prepar- vicodi, rom unda yofiliyo siCume da im ing the amber colored melted sugar… when the sugar adgils, sadac navTis quraze, dabal cecx- turns into the caramel and the bubbles slow down, the lze es qarvisferi mamalo ixarSeboda, boiling will start and the number of millions of bubbles araviTar SemTxvevaSi ar unda mivkarebo- will gradually be reduced to 18, this is exactly when di. the nut ball needs to be dipped into the sugar. The saidumlo receptis avtori, poet bubbles of sugar explode like a lava, one needs to vaxtang orbelianis qaliSvili mariam take care here, to avoid dangerous burns. Once I experienced a painful burn, which meant I could not jambakur-orbeliani da misi mzareuli meet with the Patriarch of constantinople. He loved pelagiaa, romelsac orbelianma parizis the “Pearls of the Sun” and used to say- the walnuts FAmILy TRADITIONS FAmILy kulinaruli kursebi daamTavrebinda da is a fruit, which is touched by a sacred man only. my swored amis Semdeg daiwyes maT grenob- burns were treated with the Turmanidze balm and I am lis cnobili nigvziT, ,,mzis margalite- so grateful to the creators of this magic balm and their bis~ damzadeba. ancestors. TiTo lebans isini funjiT wmend- This secret recipe makes the royal candy of nen, - ganagrZo Txroba qeTevanma, raTa the Orbelianis, the “Pearls of the Sun” so attractive nigvzisaTvis, mtveri da uReli moeSore- and splendid. Nowadays Ketevan makes them with binaT, Semdeg gatarebuli nigvzis farSs the royal coat of arms on it for the Literature cafes and saTuTad amrgvalebdnen nigvzis burTule- on special occasions for the members of her house- bad da mamaloSi amovlebuls zeTwasmul hold in the memory of their ancestors. marmarilos filaze awyobdnen. I must admit that after the delicious story told axla roca qeTino Tavad amzdebs by Ketevan I cannot pass by the Literature café on the kanfetebs, xvdeba Tu ratom unda yofil- Abashidze street without dropping in. iyo frTxilad am qarvisferi mamalos momzadebis dros... - roca Saqari kara- melad iqceva da misi buStebic Seaneleben Nutsa eristavi sirbils, iwyeba duRili da milionobiT buStis ricxvi nel-nela mcirdeba 18-amde, swored maSin unda amoevlos specialur Cangalze damagrebuli nigvzis burTula. lavasaviT skdeba cxeli mamalos buStebi, am dros aucilebelia sifrTxile raTa damwvroba ar miiRos adamianma. - erTxel, Tavadac ganmicdia damwv- robis simware, ris gamoc konstantinopo- lis patriarqTan ver SevZeli Sexvedra, mas Zalin moswonda ,,mzis margalitebi~ da ambobda, - nigozi aris xili, romel- sac mxolod wminda adamiani exebao. Cems damwvrobas TurmaniZis malamom uSvela ris gamoc madlobas vuxdi am jadosnuri malamos Semqmnelebsa da maT STamomav- lebs. albaT swored damzadebis es said- umlo recepti sZens mimzidvelobasa da didebas orbelianebis samefo kanfetebs ,,mzis margalitebs~ romelsac qeTevani ukve orbelianebis gerbiT amzadebs ,,literaturuli~ kafeebisaTvis xolo gansakuTrebuli dReebisaTvis sayvareli winaprebis mosagoneblad. me ki qeTevanis ,,mzis margalite- biviT~ gemrieli monaTxobis Semdge ar SemiZlia abaSiZis quCaze ,,literaturul~ kafes gulgrilad Cavuaro. ojaxuri tradiciebi nuca erisTavi 20 0193 Tbilisi, m. aleqsiZis 1/3. tel: 36 41 85 www.manuscript.ge qarTuli xelnawerebi [email protected] Georgian manuscripts 1/3 m. Aleksidze st., Tbilisi 0193. Tel: 36 41 85 22 23 qarTuli xelnawerebi 24 w wyarosTavis saxareba xelnaweris mTavar Rirsebad beqa mxatvruli tendenciebis mimaniSnebelia. ani formebisSeqmnis mcdeloba _axali msubuqi monasmebiT damuSaveba, moculobi- eris, iisferisadaSabiamnisferisTeTras monasmebi), saerToferadovanigama_cisf- ra (oqrozeamowerili momwvanodawiTeli xazi; formaTasirbile, saxeTawerismane- saukunis wyarosTavis oTxTaviXII fasovnad gamoCnda stilis ganviTarebis mniSvnelovani Zeglia, romelSic srul- mTagoriani peizaJisasociaciasiwvevs. pir miwazeagaSlili.lurjimiwiszoli wignSi wers.sawerimowyobilobebipirda- rdaa, borcvzezisdamuxlebzegaSlil karnaxobs. proxoreuwv¬eruliaxalgaz- RvTaebrivi STagonebiTgadmosulsityvas warmoadgens; igiTavismowafeproxores gamonakliss mxolodwm.ioanemaxarebeli warwerebi oqrosfonzesinguriTiwereba. Ta saxelismimaniSnebeli asomTavruli arqiteqturul konstruqciaSi.maxarebel- areblis savarZeli TiTqos gaWedilia am masze aRmarTulipiupitriT;magidadamax- mimsgavsebuli garemo, saweri magidiTa da toriumis anTundacmonastriskelias wminda maxareblebikamarisTaRovan dros ariangamosaxulni.iqmnebaskrip- moCarCoebaSi oqrosfonze, saxarebisweris sxva dekoratiulisamkauliaraxlavs. suraTebia CarTuli.xelnawerskamarebida TiToeuli TavisdasawyisSimaxareblebis xelnawerigadaweriliakargad gamoyvanil etratze, klasikuri nusxuriT. zusti TariRic1195 weli. xelnawers axlavsgadawerisdaSekazmvis Zisa, mnaTisaÁTa da giorgi seTaÁsZisaÁTa”. iTa orTa mweralTaÁTa iovanse fukarelis saxarebagadaiweramweralTa io- aÁsZis xeliT: “daiwera da gasrulda Ãel- vane fukarelisZis, mnaTisadagiorgiseT- CuenTa _TamarisdadaviTsTÂs”. salocvelad RvTi¬vgÂrgÂnosanTamefÀTa ie yovlad, srulebiT ..... sadideblad da wmidaÁ eseoTxTavida¬vaweriedamovaWed- sawyalobeli iovanesafarel-mtbevarida “saxeliTa RmrTisaÁTa.....me, ara¬Rirsida monastrisaTvis gadaiweradaSeimko: safarel-mtbevaris dakveTiTwyarosTavis kuli; xelnawerimRvdelTmTavarioane dros, 1195 welsaagadanusxulidaSem- yarosTavis oTxTaviTamarismefobis xelnawerTa erovnuli centri nino qavTaria mxares usvamsxazs. iaTi Wedurobisdekoraciul-ornamentul daxvewiloba daSesrulebissaerToxas- ruli figurebi, ornamentuli motivebis “oqromWedeli beqaÁopizari.” skulptu- nili. TandarTul warweraSi vkiTxulobT: wm.ioane naTlismcemeli) scenebia warmodge- mi qriste, aqeT-iqiTkiRmrTismSobelida tradiciuli “vedrebis” (saydarze mjdo- zia gamosaxuli), xolo ukana mxares ki jvris mklavebisTavzekioriangelo- ydiswinamxares“jvarcmis” (cen- ares RmrTismSobelidaioanemociquli; trSi jvarcmulimacxovari, misorivemx- cxlis moWediliydaiTvleba. opizaris Sesrulebuli, mooqrovili ver- and decorating –1195. script isaccompanied by theexact date ofrewriting ane sonofPukareliandGiorgi Setadze”. The manu- TheGospelwas written inthenameofwrit- written andcompleted by thehandoftwowritersIo- ers Ioane son ofPukareli and Giorgi Setadze: “was glorify godsentkingsofours– Tamar andDavid”. ten thissacredFourGospelsandhaditembossed,to and wretched, Iovane Safareli-Mtbevari, have writ- Safarel-Mtbevari: In thename of God…I,unworthy with the orders of the church spiritual leader Ionae T TSKAROSTAVI GOSPEL script was created for Tskarostavi Monastery the reignofKing Tamar, in1195; The manu- skarostavi FourGospelswerewrittenduring National Center ofManuscripts Nino Kavtaria side ofembossing. performance emphasizes the decorative –ornamental istrication of ornaments and the general character of fisoph- Sculptural the Opizari”. gures, Beka’ smith accompanying inscription we canread: “The Gold- and Mother Mary on his sides)are presented. In the Johnas and Jesus, (sitting cover back the on cration” depicted above the crucificrucifiof scenes x), The and of cover traditional front the on xion “obse- are angels two the Apostle; Jonas and Mary Mother sides his of both on crucifi Jesus, center ed the (in Thegoldplated silver cover, performedby virtue oftheBook. Beka Opizarioisconsideredasthemostimportant the signsofnewartistictendencies. attempt to ceate the voluminous shapes –these are palette – skyblue,purpleand torquise light strockes, strockes onthegoldenbackground),diversecolour the manner of painting of faces (greenish and redish The Four Gospelsisthe most important mas- velopment line of the style; the softness of the forms, terpiece of XII century, which fully revelaed the de- still. blue stipe of land resembles the mountaneous land- knees. The writingtoolsarerightontheground. The on ahill and writesintothebook spreadopenonhis St.Ioaneevangelist is theonlyexception; Prokhore. Prokhoreisabeardlessyoungman,hesits he dictates the heavenly inspired words tohispupil are writtenincinnabaronthegoldenbackground. The scriptsindicated the namesofEvangelists like they areminted in thisarchitectural construction. tre; the desk and the armchair of the evangelist look cell feeling, with writingdeskandthemountedpupi- refling monastery the even or scriptorium the ecting Thesacredevangelists are depicted, while on thegoldenbackground. The readergetsthefeel- writing the Gospel, in firmament dome shaped frame are notinplace. chapter. Firmaments andotherdecorative ornaments The manuscript is rewritten on awell pro- gian alphabet. The picturesofEvangelists start each cessed parchment in classical Nuskhuri, old Geor- 25

GEORGIAN MANUSCRIPTS saqarTvelo Georgia - Piece vetlana-sabuckaia-buaCiZe daibada ukrainaSi q. kievTan axlos (qalaq nawili belaia cerkovSi), ukrainul-po- of my Heart slonur mravalSvilian ojaxSi (xuTi dani iyvnen). Semdeg mSoblebi dasavleT ukrainaSi gadasaxldnen, sadac daamTavra Cemi saSualo skola, Cairicxa lvovis uni- versitetSi da daamTavra filologiis vetlana Sabutskaia-Buachidze was born fakulteti. Ooci wlis asakidan misi cxovre- in the near Kiev (the town of Be- gulisa ba mWidrod daukavSirda saqarTvelos. laia Tserkov) in a large Polish-Ukrainian universitetSi swavlis dros gaicno amave family (five sisters). Later her parents universitetis studenti gaston buaCiZe da Smoved to the western part of the Ukraine, there masTan erTad Seqmna stumarTmoyvareobiT she graduated from secondary school and was ganTqmuli ojaxi. momavalSi gaston buaCiZe admitted to the Lvov University, where she gradu- gaxda franguli literaturis specialis- ated with a degree in philology. At of the age of ti, mTargmneli da mwerali. 20 her life became connected with Georgia. While svetlana buaCiZe wlebis ganmavloba- studying at University she met a student Gas- Si muSaobda Tbilisis qoreografiul ton Buachidze, who she started a family with in saswavlebelSi, rusuli enisa da litera- qalbatoni svetlana sabuckaia-buaCiZe da Georgia, so famous for its hospitality. Later Gas- turis maswavleblad. mravalmxrivi niWisa gaston buaCiZe ojaxTan erTad nantSi ton Buachidze became a prominent specialist in da farTo erudiciis pirovneba, SesaniS- Mrs. Svetlana Sabutskaia-Buachidze and Gaston French literature as a translator and writer. navi lirikuli leqsebisa da ferweruli Buachidze with family in Nantes Over the years Svetlana Buachidze taught tiloebis avtori, igi, amave dros, sani- and literature in Tbilisi choreo- muSod mzrunveli, Tavdadebuli meuRle, graphic school. She is a multi talented and widely deda da bebiaa, SesaniSnavi qal-vaJis - an- educated person, the author of beautiful lyrical etas da andres da ori SviliSvilis, sabasa poems and paintings, at the same time was an da lukas, aRmzrdeli. exceptionally caring, dedicated wife, mother and 1991 wels, isini gadasaxldnen gas- grandmother to her daughter and son- Anetta and ton buaCiZis deduleTSi, safrangeTSi, sa- Andre and two grandchildren, Saba and Luka. dac nantis universitetSi profesorad mi- In 1991, like many other Georgians the iwvies da dRemde moRvaweobs b-ni gastoni. Buachidze family was also forced to leave the magram saqmianobiT, fiqriT Tu grZnobiT country. They moved to France the motherland of maT arasodes dautovebiaT TavanTi mameu- Gaston Buachidze’s mother, where he was invited li - Tbilisi, romelic nantis megobari to Nantes University as a professor, and where he qalaqia. periodulad Camodian leqciebis, is still academically occupied. But with his work konferenciebis Tu sxva kulturul-saqmi- and in his thoughts he has never left his home city ani SexvedrebisaTvis an isec, monatrebiT. of Tbilisi, which is the twined city to Nantes. They 30 wlis ganmavlobaSi (1960 -1990ww) come back periodically for conferences or other saqarTveloSi cxovrebis dros ukrai- cultural events or meetings, and also for no good nul-polonuri warmoSobis am SesaniSnav- reason, just because they miss it here. ma qalbatonma guliT Seiyvara da gaiTavi- Over the 30 years (1960-1990) of her life sa qarTuli kultura da yofa, SeiTvisa qarTuli sufris Taviseburebani da yove- in Georgia, this amazing woman of Ukrainian-Pol- live es, xangrZlivi ganSorebis Semdeg ish descent, lovingly took Georgian culture and its saqarTvelosTan (sadac, man, rogorc way of life close to her heart, accepted the pecu- TviTon ambobs, gaatara mTeli Segnebuli liarities of the Georgian feasts and after a separa- cxovreba da, sadac datova nawili Tavisi tion with Georgia (where as she says she spent all gulisa), gulsa da gonebaSi dagrovili her conscious life and where she left piece of her da gadaxarSuli, didi mxatvruli ostato- heart) described all that accumulated in her heart biTa da gulwrfeli siyvaruliT gadmoR- and mind with great mastery and sincere love in vara Tavis am sruliad ucnauri da origi- this absolutely distinguished and original piece en- qalbatoni svetlana sabuckaia-buaCiZe naluri Janris nawarmoebSi, romelsac titled “Supra”, an extract of which you can enjoy Mrs. Svetlana Sabutskaia-Buachidze `sufra~ hqvia da romlis nawyvetsac qvemoT below. gTavazobT. 26 27 начале была пища, затем она стала едой, позже появился стол, и только потом уже – скатерть, на которую ставили еду как угощение. УВ каждой страны – своя еда, свое вкусовое разнообразие, свой ритуал гостеприимства.

* * * SUPRA Table cloth –The Lady На протяжении столетий в Грузии SUPRA создавался ритуал угощения не только дошедший до нашего времени, но и сохранивший языческую свежесть предков с их закодированной мудростью бытия. Любопытно, кто и как повседневно управлял этим ритуалом? Люди или irst it was just food, then it became предметы ими созданные? a meal, later there was a table and Вопрос вполне закономерный, a table cloth on which the food was потому что с незапамятных времен (никто offered as a treat. не скажет точно, когда это случилось) стало every country has its own food, its очевидным, что предметы, созданные variety of fl avours, and its traditions of hospi- людьми, особенно ритуальные, скажем, F tality. обыкновенная скатерть, начинают жить самостоятельной жизнью. Они становятся * * * взыскательными, требовательными, властными, у них появляются почти The ritual of treating the guest was de- тиранические повадки. Они диктуют, что и veloping over several centuries in Georgia. It как следует делать. Так надо! Вот так! По- did not only reach us these days, but also pro- другому нельзя... vided a novel spectacle for our ancestors, with И люди, как ни странно, не спорят their coded wisdom of living. с ними, начиная священнодействие – Interesting, but who and how was this убранство стола, не сопротивляются им, ritual managed? Was it the people or the things а весело и беззаботно, или озабоченно, в made by them? зависимости от ситуации, повинуются, не This is a very relevant question, be- беспокоясь об успехе, зная заранее, что cause from ancient times (no one can tell СКАТЕРТЬ себя в обиду не даст. Речь ведь when it happened exactly) it became obvious пойдет о ней, о скатерти, самом прозаичном, that things created by people, especially ritual на наш взгляд, предмете. items, such as the ordinary tablecloth, start to Если вы так думаете о грузинской have a life of their own. They become demand- скатерти, то глубоко ошибаетесь. Чтобы ing, arrogant, they develop nearly despotic в этом убедиться, вам рекомендуется habits. They dictate what and how things need перевести слово СКАТЕРТЬ на грузинский to be done. This is how it should be! And not in СУПРА язык и увидеть, как оно у вас на глазах any other way…. или тут же преображается, приобретая And strangely enough, people do not ar- sufra совершенно новое качество, присущее gue with them when they start the ritual –when Скатерть-повелительница сказочной скатерти-самобранке, то setting the table, they do not argue, but instead есть, слово становится обладателем joyfully or sometimes anxiously, depending on сверхъестественных свойств. the situation, obey, without being worried about

28 29 Скатерть по-грузински – СУПРА, и the success, knowing in advance that the table- звучит это короткое слово, как заклинание cloth will be able to defend her-self. And this is и повеление, торжественно и даже грозно; what we are going to talk about- the tablecloth, с ним не шутят – ему повинуются. В Грузии a very prosaic thing in our opinion. это известно всем, ибо давным-давно If this is what you think about the Geor- слово стало загадочным, даже волшебным, gian tablecloth, you are very wrong. To prove преображенным изнутри, наполненным this it is recommended that you translate this тайных смыслов – отсюда известное word into Georgian and you will see that it changes its meaning right in front of you, at- гостеприимство. SUPRA В отличие от скатерти-самобранки, taining a completely new quality, typical to the которая появляется вдруг сама по себе как “magic tablecloth” from the fairy tale. This word заветная мечта путника поесть и попить, obtains supernatural features. Супра – сотворение чуда – создается The tablecloth in Georgian is – SUPRA организованно и осмысленно на глазах and this short word sounds like an invocation пораженного и очарованного путника, ибо and command, solemn and even ferocious; она – дело рук человеческих и его доброй you don’t joke with it – you obey to it. Every- воли. По-грузински Супра – обыкновенная body knows this in Georgia, because the word скатерть, а в более широком смысле – это has long become enigmatic, even magical, застолье, т.е. сидение за столом, покрытом transformed from the inside, full of mysterious скатертью и уставленном всевозможными meanings - hence the well-known hospitality. яствами. А яств на скатерти должно быть Unlike the magic tablecloth, which appears by itself in the dream of a hungry and thirsty sufra видимо-невидимо, чтобы глаза разбегались traveler, Supra – magic in making- is created и не знали, с чего начинать, чтобы и скатерть in an organized manner and is thoroughly не была видна, ведь она – не виновница 30 31

торжества, а всего лишь – повелительница, thought through right in front of an astonished – всему свое время. Стол, покрытый можно и не высовываться. and charmed traveler, because Supra is made скатертью, заполняется изысканной, Безмолвие и скромность скатерти by man, by the will of man. In Georgian Su- украшенной зеленью и зер¬нами граната говорят сами за себя, ее достоинства pra means a regular table cloth, and in a wider едой и превращается в Супру. непререкаемы. sense of the word – this is a feast, meaning Священнодействие начинается! Как и все столы мира, грузинский sitting at the table covered with the table cloth Занавес поднимается, и перед изумленным стол рассчитан на хороший аппетит? Не and full of different vitals. And the food should взглядом путешественника (а так как все только... Странный вопрос для Супры... be so plentiful that ones eyes should not know мы - путешественники в каком-то смысле) Еда на столе – это изобилие и where to start. One should not be able to see предстает накрытый до приема гостей и для щедрость в их первозданном виде, а the tablecloth itself, because it is not the center их приема стол. сидение за столом – ритуал многовековой of the festivity, only its master, in such a posi- Салаты из нарезанных овощей, культуры. tion one might afford to remain invisible. приправленные пряной зеленью, которая Избирается тамада – полновластный The silence and modesty of the tablecloth произрастает в Грузии круглый год, – speak for itself, its virtues are undisputed. sufra хозяин застолья, его организатор, ведущий, бессменное блюдо на столе, объединяющее управляющий, назовите его как хотите, от As all tables of the world, is the Geor- все сезоны. Помимо этого стол украшается этого суть дела не меняется, одним словом, gian table meant only for a good appetite? Not целыми овощами: огурцами, помидорами, – режиссер театрализованной постановки only for this… a strange question for a Supra. редиской, сверкающими свежестью и Food on the table – it is abundance and gen- под будничным для живущих названием – красками, пучками съедобных, целебных и erosity in its primordial state, and sitting at the «Дело житейское». Тамада – назначенный благоухающих «трав» – тархуна, цицматы, table –ritual of the multi-century culture. или избранный хозяин застолья – серьезно петрушки. The Tamada is being elected- the sov- и с большой ответственностью отнесется Нетронутые овощи – натюрморт ereign master of the table, its organizer, its к своим обязанностям (иногда тамадой и одновременно своеобразный запас – leader, name him whatever you can, this would может быть и хозяин дома, совмещая таким на всякий случай. Хотите ешьте, хотите not change the gist of the theme, in short – the образом два статуса). любуйтесь! Всегда находятся любители и director of the dramatic performance under the table set for the guests appears. ordinary title – “everyday matters”. The Tama- того и другого. * * * The salads from cut vegetables, sea- da- appointed or elected master of the table- Маленьких тарелок на столе, как soned with spicy greens, which grow in Geor- takes his duties very seriously and with great звезд на небе, а в них – чего только нет! gia all year around- limitless quantities of food, Как уже сказано, не грех и повторить, responsibility (sometimes Tamada is also the В первую очередь, – разнообразие пхали uniting all seasons of the year. Apart from this что еда на столе – это спектакль изобилия и host of the home, thus combining two different из жареных и вареных овощей: бакла- the table is decorated with whole vegetables: щедрости, полноты бытия. На столе должно positions). жана, шпината, зеленой фасоли, свеклы, быть ВСЁ. капусты моркови, словом – всех ово- cucumbers, tomatoes, radishes, all sparkling with freshness and colour, with bundles of edi- * * * щей. Породнившись с орехами, то есть, соединившись с неповторимым ореховым ble, wholesome and fragrant “herbs”- tarragon, celery, parsley. As it was mentioned before, and I will соусом, (молотые орехи, заправленные Untouched vegetables are like a still repeat it again that the food on the table- it is соответствующими пряностями и зеленью) life and at the same time a sort of reserve- just the display of abundance and generosity, the овощи преображаются и превращаются в in case. Whatever you decide, you could eat fullness of life. EVERYTHING should be on the кулинарные деликатесы с неповторимым them or enjoy looking at them! There are al- table. вкусом. Сколько бы вы ни пробовали, их вкус ways the lovers of one or the other. Not quite clear? Absolutely everything, не повторяется. (Ну, примерно, то же самое, Small plates on the table are countless whatever the wallet and season of year will как нельзя дважды ступить в одну и ту же like the stars in the sky, and on them – anything allow you to afford: vegetables, meat, fish, воду). Пхали – это импровизации, вариации you wish! In the first place-the variety of Pkhali fruits, sweets and of course not everything at на одну и ту же тему, маленькие шедевры made of fried and boiled vegetables: eggplants, the same time, but gradually and increasingly. грузинской кухни, покоряющие всех, кто их spinach, green beans, beetroot, cabbages, car- There is no rush at the table- everything has пробует. Их едят с лепешками из кукурузной rots, in short – all sorts of vegetables. Merging its right time. The table covered with the table- муки – мчады. Сочетание бесподобное! with the walnuts, that is with the walnut sauce, cloth is being filled with exquisite food, deco- Рядом с пхали – сыры: сулгуни, (grounded nuts, mixed with spices and greens) Непонятно? Абсолютно всё, что может себе rated with greens and the seeds of a pome- имеритинский, гуда, нарезанные краси- the vegetables transform into a culinary deli- позволить кошелек и предло-жить сезон: granate and gradually turns into the Supra. выми ломтиками, разложенные на тарелке cacy with unique flavor. Each time you try them овощи, мясо, рыба, фрукты, сладости, And the ritual service begins! The cur- так, чтобы каждый без труда мог выбрать по the flavor is still unique. (Well, it is something

разумеется, не всё сразу, а постепенно, tain rises and in front of the astonished traveler SUPRA собственному вкусу. like “you cannot step in the same water twice”). по восходящей. За столом не торопятся (and in some ways we are all travelers) the А кто в Грузии не любит сыр, если он

32 33 тоже неповторимый? Кто откажется от него? Pkhali means improvising, variations on the (Если не есть, то хотя бы попробовать). theme, little masterpieces of Georgian cui- Затем на столе обязательно должна sine, conquering everyone who ever gets to try быть рыба– цоцхали, грузинский дели- them. you eat them with cornbread- mchadi. катес, или форель – жареная или вареная– The combination is unbelievable. или какая-нибудь другая рыба, например, Next to the Pkhaili there are cheeses: сом, залитый соусом киндзмари. Холодные Sulguni, Imeretian, Guda, cut into pretty little мясные блюда представлены кучмачи, pieces, placed on a plate in such way that any- измельченной печенью с соответствующими one can pick the piece they prefer. ей приправами, отварной курицей под Who in Georgia does not like cheese? ореховым соусом – бажи или сациви, Who will say no to it? (If not eat it, at least try знаменитым гру-зинским поросенком it). Then there should be fi sh on the table:

со СЛИВОВЫМ соусом - ткемали, тоже SUPRA неповторимым (сколько хозяек – столько же Tsotskhali, Georgian delicacy, or trout, grilled и вкусового разнообразия). or boiled-or any other fi sh, for example catfi sh, Всё это уже на столе ждет in Kindzmari sauce. cold meat dishes are застигнутого врасплох гостя. Стол до represented by Kuchmachi, minced liver with specifi c spices, boiled chicken with the walnut его прихода был заполнен невидимыми sauce- Baji or Satsivi, famous Georgian piglet кудесниками по распоряжению with the plum sauce -Tkemali, also unique in Супры – требовательной хозяйки и its own way (different fl avor with each house- распорядительницы, скрытой от глаз wife). несметным количе-ством тарелок и потому All this is expecting the perplexed guest. невидимой неискушенному взгляду. The table was fi lled by invisible magicians ac- На этом внешнее сходство со скатертью- cording to the orders of Supra – demanding самобранкой кончается. hostess, hidden from the eyes by uncountable Где хозяин – тамада, там хозяйка number of plates and thus invisible to the inex- – Супра. У Супры нет и не может быть perienced eye. соперниц, поэтому хозяйка дома за столом Here ends the resemblance with the не сидит, она только изредка появляется, magic tablecloth. и тут же исчезает, чтобы беспрекословно If the host is Tamada - the hostess is выполнять повеление всезна-ющей Супры. the Supra. Supra does not have and cannot Стол начинает работать. Приносят have any competition, this is why the hostess горячие хачапури, лепешки с сыром. Они of the home does not sit at the table, she ap- покоряют всех, кто их пробует, на всю жизнь pears only rarely and immediately disappears (по собственному опыту знаю). Можно in order to fulfi ll the command of the omniscient сказать, что с их появлением начинается Supra. магия грузинского стола, проявление его The table starts to work. The hot могущества и слабости (в смысле – трудно Khachapuri is brought in, cheese baked in the устоять). Одним словом, Супра начинается! dough. It conquers anyone who tries it, for the Приносятся разнообразные яства, rest of their life (I know it from personal expe- уносятся только пустые тарелки, и опять rience). you could say that by their appear- несут и несут. ance the magic of the Georgian table begins, И так становится интересно, что its strengths and weaknesses are revealed могут возникнуть незатейливые, праздные, (meaning – hard to resist). In short the Supra и, возможно, даже неуместные вопросы. А begins! чего же на столе нет? Неужели всё?! The different dishes are brought in, Что же еще можно принести, ничего only empty plates are taken away, they keep не убирая со стола? Неужели это всего лишь bringing more and more. ловкость рук накрывающих стол кудесников And it gets so interesting that some- и одновременно телохранителей Супры? times innocent, idle and maybe inappropriate sufra Почему же на столе не должно questions arise. What is missing from the ta-

34 быть просветов? Неужели чтобы скрыть с ble? Is that all ?! глаз скатерть-повелительницу, сделать ее What else can be brought in without tak- невидимой и неуязвимой? ing anything out? Is it just a trick of the magi- Или просто, по-житейски, не уносят, cians hand setting up the Supra, who are her чтобы никто не пожалел, что не успел чего- guardians? нибудь попробовать, распробовать из того, Why shouldn’t there be clear spaces? Is что стоит на столе? Пустые тарелки тут же it to conceal the tablecloth-the master, make it SUPRA снова наполняются, чтобы изобилие было invisible and invincible? явным и очевидным? Чтобы всё оставалось Or is it because they simply don’t want нетронутым для прихода новых гостей, anybody to regret that they did not have time to потому что нужно создать полную иллюзию, try something else that was on the table? empty что именно их и ждали? Ведь каждый plates are fi lled immediately, is it because the гость – это продолжение праздника, его abundance should be clear and obvious? To непрерывность. leave them untouched for the guests to create the illusion that these guests were the ones who А, может быть, стол заполнили, чтобы we expected? every new guest is a continua- остановить время, чтобы никто никуда не tion of the festivity. вздумал торопиться и попытался прожить But maybe they fi lled the table in order отпущенное ему за столом время в другом to stop time, so that no one would hurry, and измерении? everyone would have an opportunity to live the Много вопросов может возникнуть у time at the table in a different dimension? гостя издалека, а тем временем кудесники Lots of questions could come to the far away sufra начинают приносить «горячее»: мясные guest’s mind, while the magicians start bringing соусы, зажареную в духовке индюшку с the “hot” dishes: meat sauce, turkey grilled in 36 37 айвой, затем отварную говядину, хашламу, the oven with quince, then boiled beef, Khash- Праздник – это святое! Еда и питье – Festivity- it’s sacred! Food and drink- посыпанную зеленью петрушки, или lama, with greens sprinkled on the top, or the неотъемлемые составляющие праздника, inseparable parts o the festivity, this is why отваренную целиком лопатку – бечи, потом whole boiled shoulder peace- Bechi, than grilled поэтому и еды, и питья должно быть много, there should be plenty of food and drink, so that шашлык, хинкали, затем фрукты, сладости. meat-Shashlik, Khinkali, then fruits, sweets… чтобы хватило на всех и всем. everyone can enjoy them. Уф! Gosh! Что значит на всех? Сколько их? What does “everyone” mean? How Сколько можно съесть? Можно ли How much can one eat? Is one allowed Могут быть сотни приглашенных, если это many of them are they? There can be hundreds всё съесть? Нужно ли всё съедать? to eat all? Is it a must to eat it all? свадьба, или поминки. Но кто считает? of invitees, if it is a wedding or a funeral. But Это вопросы рациональные. These are rational questions. Georgian Вам никто не скажет точно сколько! Это не who counts? No one can tell you how many ex- Грузинский стол – грузинская Супра -такими table-Georgian Supra- does not ask such ques- принято, и бесполезно спрашивать, всех не actly! This is not appropriate, there is no point вопросами не задается. У нее свои законы, tions. She has her own laws, rules of the game сосчитаешь! asking, who can count them all! правила игры, и свои интересы. and her own interest. На праздник приглашены ВСЕ. everyone is invited to the festivity. sufra SUPRA mezRvauris monaTxrobi aleqsandre WavWavaZe

gazeTi `kavkazi~ - 1893 wlis 11 maisi (gagrZeleba)

armoidgineT Cveni aRtaceba, rodesac mexuTe dRes, gamTenii- sas davinax-eT ucnobi napiri. sa-

bednierod Relvam gagvtyorcna saojaxo arqivi xmeleTze. didxans veyareT qancga- wmoclilebi, adgomac ki ar SegveZlo. mTeli sxeuli dabeJili gvqonda, maril- iani wylisgan iarebi gagviCnda. dagvisivda STORIeS OF THe SAILOR fexebi. xoxviT moviZieT saWmeli, vWam- diT kiborCxalebs, zRvis balaxs, raTa ALeXANDeR cHAVcHAVADZe raRaciT mainc amogvevso carieli kuWi. Cvengan or nabijze iwyeboda xSiri tropi- From the Newspaper “Kavkaz” – may 11th, 1893 kuli tye, gadaxlarTuli ekal-bardebiTa (continiu) da lianebiT. tyidan raRac xmebi ismoda, xeebze maimunebi daxtodnen. mezizReboda maimunebis cinikuri moZraoba da mixvra- moxvra, magram axla isini Semiyvarda. es pirveli cocxali arsebebi iyvnen, rom- lebic Segvxvdnen da esalmebodnen Cvens gaTavisuflebas talRebisgan da mobrune- bas sicocxlisaken. Cven fxizlad vadevneb- diT Tvals xom arafers Wamdnen, an xom ar Ca-moagdebdnen romelime nayofs,

magine our excitement, when on the fi fth day at dawn we saw an unknown coast. Luckily the waves drew us towards the shore. We lay there for a long time, exhausted; we could not even stand on our feet. Our bodies were bruised and covered in sores fromI the salty water. Our feet were swollen. We had to crawl to fi nd some food for ourselves; we ate crabs and sea grass to somehow fi ll our stomachs. A couple of steps away from us we saw a thick tropical forest, which was full of thorny bushes and lianas. Strange noises were coming from the forest and the monkeys were jumping up and down on the trees. I usually despised the mocking gestures and movements of the monkeys, but now I was happy to see them. These were the fi rst living creatures that we had seen in a very long time

FAMILY ARCHIVE FAMILY and they were a welcome escape from the waves. We watched them carefully to see what they ate, or if they would drop any fruits, which were plentyfull in the palm trees above us. The coconut palms seemed within our reach and their dark green nuts looked so appetising, but none of us had the strength to climb the tall, smooth trunk of these trees and collect the nuts.

40 41 romelic mravlad esxa palmebs. qoqo- Out of the blue we heard human voices. We mofenili iyo uricxvi qoqosis palmebiT took us to another village and over the next 10 days we sis palmebi ise axlos iyo, muqi mwvane kak- jumped to our feet, turned around and saw three dark da maT Soris Svenoda maRal ximinjebze visited one village after another. The villagers were look- lebi ise madis aRmZvrelad gvimzerdnen, brown naked men in a long black boat approaching us. Semdgari naTeli, TiTqmis TeTri qoxebi ing for someone who might be able to talk to us in our magram romel Cvengans Seswevda qoqosis They spotted our white canoe from a distance and ap- malaelebisa. es maTi sofeli iyo da Cven own tongue as so far we had only managed to commu- palmis gluv da maRal tanze acocebis da peared to be quite frightened. They thought it must be a erT-erT aseT sofels mivadeqiT. nicate through hand gestures. We were received very warmly everywhere we went. nayofis Camogdebis Zala. Sultan’s boat, because only a Sultan travelled in a white Semogvegebnen SiSveli mamakacebi malayan villages are built in coconut tree for- boat (we later learned about this). As soon as they saw da qalebi. cnobismoyvareobiT gvaTva- ucbad adamianebis xma Semogvesma, wa- ests. The huts are nicely woven from willows and are movxtiT da ras vxedavT, Sav, grZel navSi us they retreated, even though we were desperately lierebnen. migviyvanes saxlebTan, gamoi- gesturing to them to come over to us. When they even- see-through like baskets, so the wind passes through tanes wyali da pitnis msgavsi raRac nayeni. mjdom sam muq yavisfer, SiSvel adamians. tually realised that we were just helpless, unwell people, the walls easily. The kitchenware is made out of co- es malaelebi iyvnen. maT Soridan mohkres who could not harm them, they approached, allowed us Semdeg mogvces cotaodeni umi brinji da conut shells. They use very beautiful, mostly colourful Tvali Cvens TeTr kanjos da SeSfoTdnen. to board their boat and took us with them. As we sailed qoni. qalebma dagviziles tani cximiT, wy- rice mats as beds but sometimes they use woven plant egonaT, rom es sulTanis navi iyo, radgan closer to their island we beheld a beautiful view. Infront lulebi mogviSuSes, gvacxes malamo da Seg- mats. FAMILY ARCHIVE FAMILY maTTan TeTri naviT mxolod sulTani of us were small islands covered with coconut trees and vixvies. gvasves, gvaWames, Tumca mSier kuWze The malayans are muslim, but they are mo- mgzavrobda. (es yovelive mogvianebiT gav- among them one could see light coloured, almost white, bevri saWmeli mogvarides. mogvces mo- nogamists. They fi sh, grow rice and sugar cane and igeT). dagvinaxes Tu ara, gagvecalnen, Tum- malayan huts on tall stilts –this was their village. xarSuli brinji, Cveneburi flavis msgavsi, take care of Sago trees (the Sago tree looks very much like a coconut palm, but it does not produce any fruit). ca JestikulaciiT vevedrebodiT CvenTan Naked men and women greeted us, observing magram Seukmazavi. gamTeniisas wagviyvanes All of the inhabitants are naked; they only wear short mosvlas. rodesac darwmundnen, rom Cven us with curiosity. They brought us to their homes, gave sxva sofelSi da ase gvatares daaxloe- us water and some sort of mint extract. Then they gave skirts. It needs to be mentioned that all women, even the ususurni da sneulni viyaviT da verafers biT aTi dRe navebiT erTi kunZulidan us some raw rice and fat. Women helped us to cover elderly ones are in good physical condition and it would meoreze, eZebdnen adamians, romelic davuSavebdiT, mogviaxlovdnen, Cagvsves our bodies with grease to treat our sores, which were be excellent if european women would care about the saojaxo arqivi TavianT navebSi da wagviyvanes. roca kun- then bandaged. They gave us food and drink, but not dagvelaparakeboda, radgan urTierToba damage they infl ict upon their own fi gures with corsetes Zuls mivuaxlovdiT mSvenieri sanaxao- too much since it was dangerous on an empty stomach. mxolod Jestebis eniT gvqonda. yvelgan and narrow clothing. ba gadagveSala: patar-patara kunZulebi They gave us plain boiled rice. On the next morning they gvRebulobdnen gulTbilad. After almost two weeks visiting the malayans, 42 43 malaelebis sofeli qoqosis tyeebSia ga- they brought us to the island of “Linga” to meet one Brit- Seebuli, qoxebi lamazadaa dawnuli ler- ish trader who had apparently lived here for a long time. wmisagan, kalaTiviT gamWvirvalea da qari He greeted us very warmly and gave us some clothes. Tavisuflad qris maTSi. saojaxo Wur- He gave some underwear to one of us and some out- Weli qoqosis naWuWisgan aris damzade- erwear to another. We were of course very happy. We buli, loginad Zalian lamazi, xSirad spoke to him and fi nally found out our own whereabouts. mravalferi brinjis Calis Wilofebia It gave us the hope that we would return home. This Brit- ish gentleman was very happy with his life here. He had gamoyenebuli, gvxvdeba agreTve boWkovani some plantations and was also a trader. He took us to a mcenareebisgan moqsovili fardagebi. malayan Sultan of Linga. malaelebi mahmadianebi arian, ma- The Sultan welcomed us very warmly, treated gram mravalcolianoba ar aris maTSi us with cigars and excellent tea and invited us to his gavrcelebuli. misdeven meTevzeobas, lux-urious palace. Here one could fi nd European lamps, brinjis, Saqris lerwmis moSenebas, sculptures, paintings, different Japanese items made of FAMILY ARCHIVE FAMILY gamoyavT sago. (sagos palma uzarmazaria shells of various forms however it was all stacked in no da Zalian hgavs qoqosis palmas, Tumca nay- particular order. The following day he took us on his sail- ofs ar isxams). ing boat to another island “Rio” to visit his brother, also a Sultan. This sultan was dressed in the european man- yvela macxovrebeli SiSvelia, acvia ner. He also gave us an extremely friendly welcome. He mxolod mokle qvedaweli. aRsaniSnavia, presented us each with 10 mexican dollars and sent us rom yvela qals, xniersac ki SenarCunebu- to the Dutch Viceroy of the malayan islands. Ths was li aqvs sxeulis swori forma, rac cudi the fi rst time that we had eaten baked bread. One had ar iqneba rom gaiTvaliswinon evropel- a sense of “civilization” about everything. Small ships ma qalebmac, romlebic korsetebiT da vi- were sailing to Singapore daily from here and we took one of them. All the time we had stayed with the malay- ans we had received nothing but warmth and politeness. It was very hard to part with this hospitable tribe. With the money we had been given by the Sul- tan of the island of Rio, we bought clothes and some necessary effects in Singapore. Here we learned that our crew had not waited for us and after 8 days they had arrived safely to Singapore. Some of the crew had joined the ship while others simply wandered away. So by the time we arrived there, we could not fi nd any of wro tansacmliT ifuWeben formebs. either. They brought me to the chief of the “prisoners them. malaelebTan yofnis meore kviris table”, who ironically offered me an “apartment” which I reported to the American and then Russian bolos wagviyvanes kunZul `linga~- ze erT I was taken to. I followed them eagerly because I could consulates and expressed our wish to return home. inglisel vaWarTan, romelic Turme not imagine what kind of “apartment” they meant and Both councils gave me a document proving that the had a dreadfull surprise when I found myself in the po- ship, all my documents and belongings were lost. At didi xania aq cxovrobs. man Zalian gulT- bilad migviRo, Cagvacva rac hqonda. lice station locked up with six other homeless street beg- that time the military ship “Dimitri Donskoi” was berthing gars. erT CvenTagans misca TeTreuli, meores there, getting ready for its trip to Algiers, so I arrived in One can imagine how angry I was. I demanded Port-Side on it. tansacmeli. ra Tqma unda gavixareT. gave- to be interviewed, but instead I was made to wander the In Port-Side I visited the Russian council of to saubreT da bolos da bolos gavigeT, streets together with an escort from 8 am till 2 pm who verify the documents provided to me in Singapore. Then sad viyaviT. samSobloSi dabrunebis ime- yelled at me and did not even allow me to smoke. No- I joined the ship “Likhachev”, which belonged to the di Cagvesaxa. es ingliseli mSvenivrad iyo body even asked me who I was and where I came from. Russian Society of Seafarers and Sea Traders, which mowyobili. hqonda plantaciebi, vaWroba. When I demanded to be brought to the chief of police I was also heading to Odessa. This was the fi rst Russian man wagviyvana kunZul lingas malael sul- was answered rudely: “We grew old without seeing the saojaxo arqivi city after four years of wanderings abroad. Imagine my TanTan. chief and now you want to meet him just like this?” In excitement when I saw a familiar land, after I nearly lost the evening they brought me to the head of the “prison- any hope of ever returning home. Then I am standing in a man alersianad migviRo, sigarebiT gagvimaspinZlda, dagvalevina mSvenieri ers’ table” in the Boulevard, who interrogated me in the long line waiting impatiently to get off the ship. Suddenly presence of a district police supervisor. The supervisor Cai, Segviyvana sasaxleSi sadac igrZno- a gendarme comes up to me and asks for my passport. asked me why my documents, which arrived in the after- I innocently reply that I don’t have a passport, as the boda fufunebisken midrekileba. aq iyo noon, were not delivered to the chief of police. The head Captain has the certifi cate describing the shipwreck that evropuli lampebi, qandakebebi, suraTebi, of “Table” could not reaply. The next day they brought I had to go through, which was issued in Singapore. sxvadasxvanairi niJarebisgan damzadebu- me to the head of “prisoners’ desk” asked me what I was The gendarme sent me to the chief of the city, li iaponuri nivTebi, oRond yovelive es planning to do. When I told him that I wanted to go back who was at the same time head of the sea rescue com- uwesrigod iyo daxvavebuli. meore dRes to my motherland, he asked me surprised: “Do you have mittee. I sat in a waiting room for fi ve hours, without man Tavisi ialqniani barkasiT wagviyvana money?” I answered: “everybody knows that I have lost seeing anyone, until the gendarme came back with all everything and I must count on the generosity of any aleqsandre WavWavaZe my documents. He sent me to the chief of police under kunZul `rio~-ze Tavis ZmasTan, agreTve sulTanTan. es sulTani evropulad iyo captain who would take a sailor free of charge to Batumi Alexander chavchavadze the escort of a policeman presumably to be interrogated Cacmuli. manac gulTbilad migviRo. yve- port.” and then released, but I did not meet the chief of police The following day the head of the desk offered 44 45 las gvaCuqa aT-aTi meqsikuri dolari to go to town with me under escort, to look for a cap-tain kreiseri `dimitri danskoi~ romelic da malaelTa kunZulebis holandiel gu- that I might know in person who might take me on his alJirSi miemgzavreboda. am kreiseriT bernatorTan gagvgzavna. aq pirvelad mi- ship. He told me as if he was doing me a great favour! Cavedi port-saidSi. I did indeed fi nd a ship that was sailing that same night virTviT gamomcxvari puri. civilizacia port-saidSi mivedi ruseTis kon- yvelaferSi igrZnoboda. aqedan yovel and which would take me to Batumi. But then again the head of the desk demanded I waited for an hour and sulTan singapurSi mocemuli qaRalde- dRe patara gemebi singapurSi gadiodnen, promised then he would let me go. After an hour he an- bis dasamowmeblad. Semdeg davjeqi gemze sadac Cvenc gagvgzavnes. malaelebTan Cveni nounced that the chief of Police hadn’t let me go and `lixaCevi~, romelic ruseTis zRvaosno- yofnisas alersisa da Tavazianobis meti that he had decided to send me by “etap”. When I asked bisa da vaWrobis sazogadoebas ekuTvnoda araferi gvigvrZnia. gviWirda kidec am what “etap” meant, he cynically replied: “you will be sent da odesaSi midioda. es pirveli rusuli stumarTmoyvare tomTan ganSoreba. to the village prisons where you’ll spend two weeks or qalaqi iyo, romelSic me sazRvargareT kunZul rios sulTanis naCuqari so, then you will be taken to another place for two or oTxwliani yofnis Semdeg movxvdi. war- fuliT singapurSi viyideT tansacmeli da three weeks more and so on.” I was surprised as for moidgineT Cemi aRtaceba mSobliuri mi- such a long time they had misled me and now they had aucilebeli nivTebi. aq gavigeT, rom Cveni wis danaxvisas, me xom ar mqonda samSob- made such an awful decision. I asked them to send a ekipaJi ar dagveloda da 8 dRe-Ramis Sem- loSi dabrunebis imedi. vdgavar rigSi da deg mSvidobianad Camovida singapurSi. telegram to my father, but the head of the desk refused. I asked again to let me go to Batumi, even with an escort, mouTmenlad veli gadmosvlas. uecrad ekipaJidan zogi sxva gemze moewyo, dan- and that my father would cover all the expenses, but the modis Jandarmi da mTxovs pasports. gu- arCenebi wavid-wamovidnen. ase rom, iq answer was again no. They took me to the town prison lubryvilod vpasuxob, rom pasporti ar ukve aRaravin dagvxvda. as part of a convoy where I was supposed to wait for gamaCnia, rom kapitans aqvs singapurSi kon- rodesac gamovcxaddiT amerikis, the prisoners from“etap”. you can imagine what kind of sulis mier gacemuli cnoba Cemi katastro- Semdeg ki ruseTis konsulTan, me ga-movTq- a state I was in. I was like a caged animal, suffocated faSi moxvedris Sesaxeb. vi survili samSobloSi dabrunebisa. with anger, without even enough money to send a tele- Jandarmma gamgzavna qalaqis Tav- orive konsulma momca Cemi pi-rovnebis, gram home. I created a small riot to attract attention and Tan, romelic amave dros wylebze xsnis quickly achieved my goal. Cveni bedkruli gemis da yvela dokumen- komitetis Tavmjdomarec iyo. misaRebSi tisa da nivTis dakargvis damadasture- The supervisor suggested that I should appeal to the head of the prison who was quite a kind man. I xuTi saaTi vijeqi, aravin minaxavs, vidre beli mowmoba. im dros iq iyo samxedro ar gamovida Jandarmi, xelSi Cemi sabuTe- FAMILY ARCHIVE FAMILY biT da policielis Tan-xlebiT gamgza- vna policmeisterTan, sadac TiTqos unda explained my predicament to him. He suggested that I davekiTxe da gaveSvi, magram policmeis- wrote to the chief of the city, describe all my misfortunes teri ar minaxavs, Camabares patimarTa ma- to him and ask him not to send me by “etap” which I gidis ufross, romelmac ironiulad Se- duly did. The next day my old school friend appeared and bailed me out with the help of the head of the city. momTavaza `binaSi~ wasvla, sadac wamiy-vanes The ship, on which my friend worked as an assistant to kidec. me siamovnebiT mivdiodi, radgan the navigator, was leaving for Poti in two days. I had to verc warmovidgendi, Tu rogor binaSi spend two nights somewhere. my friend took it upon mivyavdi da saSinlad gavocdi, rodesac himself to help me fi nd accommodation, but I had to policiis ubanSi mimiyvanes da eqvs mawan- present proof of residencey. I had to return to the notori- walasTan erTad Camketes. ous Boulevard district, but this time the head of the desk advili warmosadgenia, Tu rogor told me that I did not need such a certifi cate, because gavbrazdi. viTxovdi davekiTxe, radgan the documents issued by the council were enough. This dilis rva saaTidan oramde damatarebd- time I laughed irritably: “If these documents were good enough before and according to them I could stay in nen quCaSi dacvasTan erTad, miyvirodnen Odessa, why did I have to go through this terrible ordeal da mowevis nebas ar maZlevdnen. aravin and stay in prison for four days?” When I fi nally got out, mekiTxeboda vin var da saidan movdivar. following my friend’s advice, I contacted a greatly re- Cems moTxovnaze, miveyvane policmeis- spected old admiral G.Jhidkov. He received me, listened terTan, guSagma uxeSad mipasuxa: `Cven ise carefully, treated me kindly like a father would do and davberdiT, rom policmeisteri ar gvi- gave me a free ticket home. So my troubles were fi nally naxavs da Sen ginda naxoo?!~ saRamos wamiy- over. vanes bulvaris ubnis patimarTa magidis I was longing to return to Georgia but instead I ufrosTan, romelmac damkiTxa boqau- was treated brutally. The savage’s treatment of me was lisa da ubnis zedamxedvelis Tandaswre- far kinder, curing my sores and taking my personal suf- ferings to heart. However, as soon as I stepped on to biT. boqaulma SeniSvna misca mas, Tu ubanSi, my motherland I was confronted with rudeness instead SuadRisas mosuli Cemi sabuTebi aqamde, of the kindeness I had hoped for and felt I deserved. ratom ar iyo gadagzavnili policmeis- terTan. amaze magidis ufrosma veraferi saojaxo arqivi upasuxa. meore dRes, diliT kvlav mim- iyvanes patimarTa magidis ufrosTan, Prince Alexander chavchavadze romelmac mkiTxa, Tu ras vapirebdi. 46 47 rodesac vuTxari, rom vapireb samSob- loSi wasvlas, gakvirvebulma Tqva: `Tqven gaqvT fuli?~ me vupasuxe: cnobilia, rom me yvelaferi davkarge, magram maqvs did- sulovnebis imedi nebismieri kapitnisa, romelic ufasod Caiyvans gasaWirSi mox- vedril mezRvaurs baTumSi. meore dRes magidis ufrosma Se- momTavaza, dacvis TanxlebiT gamevlo qalaqSi, raTa momeZebna nacnobi kapitani, romelic wamiyvanda. amas ambobda iseTi toniT, TiTqos didi pativi damdo da mavaldebulebda madloba gadamexada. me marTlac mivageni gems, romelic im saRa- mos gadioda da wamiyvanda baTumSi. magram magidis ufrosi iTxovda, rom erTi saa- Ti mimeca da mere gamiSvebda. erT saaTSi ki gamomicxada, rom policmeisteri ar miS- vebs da gadawyvetili aqvs Cemi etapiT gag- zavna. rodesac vikiTxe, ras niSnavs etapi, man damcinavad mipasuxa: `Tqven gatareben ori-sami Tve, sadac mixvalT ijdebiT ori kvira, sxva adgilas samiode kvira, soflis cixeebSi.~ (gamikvirda, amden xans ratom mabriyvebdnen dapirebebiT da axla erT saaTSi aseTi gadawyvetileba ratom miiRes. vTxove gaegzavnaT depeSa mamaCemisTvis, magram ufulod magidis ufrosi amaze ar Tanxmdeboda. isev vTx- ove, gaveSvi, Tundac aTi gamcilebliT baTumSi, davpirdi rom mamaCemi xarjebs dafaravda, magram amazedac uari miTxra. dacviT wamiyvanes qalaqis sapatimroSi, sa- dac unda davlodebodi oTxi dRis Sem- FAMILY ARCHIVE FAMILY deg patimarTa etapis gasvlas. rogori unda yofiliyo Cemi iq yofna?! galiaSi gamomwyvdeul nadirs vgavdi, brazi maxr- Cobda, depeSis gasagzavni fuli ar mqon- da. SfoTi avtexe yuradRebis misaqcevad da male sawadels mivaRwia. zedamxedvelma mirCia, mimemarTa cixis ufrosisaTvis, keTili da kargi ka- cisTvis. cixis ufross marTlac avuxseni Cemi gamouvali mdgomareoba. man miTana- grZno da mirCia, mimewera qalaqis Tav- isTvis, momexsenebina yove-live, rac ga- damxda da meTxova, ar gavegzavne etapiT. es Sevasrule. meore dRes gamoCnda erTi Cemi amxanagi saswavleblidan, damidga Tavdebad da qa-laqis Tavis brZanebiT gam- omiSves cixidan. gemi, romelzec es Cemi saojaxo arqivi

WavWavaZeebis saxli kojorSi The Chavchavadze family house in Kojori

48 49 amxanagi Sturmanis TanaSemwed msaxurob- da, or dReSi gadioda foTSi. Oori Rame sa-dRac unda gameTenebina. amxanagma Tavs ido Cemi mowyoba Tavis nacnobTan, magram me unda warmedgina binadrobis mowmoba. isev wavedi im avadsaxsenebel bulvaris ubanSi, magram amjerad magidis ufrosma miTxra, rom aseTi mowmoba ar mWird- eba, radgan sakmarisia konsulis mier gacemuli pirovnebis damadasturebeli sabuTio. axla ki brazmoreulma gada- vixarxare: `Tu es sabuTi vargoda da mis safuZvelze odesaSi cxovreba SeiZlebo- da, ratom mawvaleT da oTxi dRe cixeSi mayuryuteT?~ rodesac gavTavisufldi, Cemi amxanagis rCeviT, veaxle didad pa- tivcemulsa da yvelasgan dafasebul mx- covan admirals g. Jidkovs. man mimiRo, FAMILY ARCHIVE FAMILY momismina, mama-Svilurad momefera da momca ufaso mgzavrobis bileTi. ase damTavrda Cemi tanjva-wameba. miviltvodi, miviswrafodi sam- SobloSi da ase Seubraleblad Semipyres. me momialerses, mimkurnales velurebma, yvelgan TanagrZnobiT mekidebodnen da mexmarebodnen da ucbad, mSobliur miwa- ze fexis dadgmisTanave, gadaveyare uxeSo- bas, nacvlad guliTadobisa, romelsac vimsaxurebdi amdeni gaWirvebis gadamtani mezRvauri.

princi aleqsandre WavWavadze

gadmocemiT 1900-ian wlebSi al. WavWavaZe erTxans md. volgaze samdinareo samsaxuris inspeqtorad msaxurobda. am dros mas `zarnicaze~ Teodor SaliapinTan erTad umogzauria da gembanze

samaxsovro suraTi gadauRia. saojaxo arqivi

As they say in 1900-ies Alexander chavchavadze served as an inspector of river services on the River Volga. At this time apparently he sailed together with The- odor chaliapin on “Zarnitsa” and have taken a photo with him on a deck.

50 51 art-genis foto arqivi eqspedicia svaneTSi

2007 eXPeDITION INSVANeTI

ART-GeNe PHOTO ARcHIVe This projectisfundedby theeuropeanUnion proeqti dafinansebulia evrokavSirismier [email protected]

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