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Meet the Westcountry's Michelin-Starred Chefs

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Meet the Westcountry's Michelin-Starred Chefs Food Meet the Westcountry’s Michelin-starred chefs | Eat more sustainable fish Plus Bites, the latest news and events from Devon and Cornwall’s vibrant food scene Crab and sweetpea pannacotta by Simon Hulstone, The Elephant, Torquay MANOR | Spring 2015 89 Trail of stars Anna Turns meets the Michelin-starred chefs shining bright across the region and finds out how the South West’s food identity is evolving hilst Michelin might make you grandiose country house and everything in between. imagine foams, jellies and fancy Cornishman Chris Eden realised his boyhood cookery theatrics, stars are not dream when he first received a Michelin star in 2012 necessarily synonymous with at The Driftwood Hotel. “The key to our success is white tablecloth fine-dining sourcing the finest ingredients from our phenomenal Wanymore. A star can simply indicate the best possible suppliers,” says Chris, who reacts to seasonality and pub food or stonking fish and chips. The seven adapts the menu accordingly. “Just this morning, my Michelin-starred chefs in the South West offer a mix friend James went diving and bought me hand-dived of show-stopping flavours – from village gastropub to scallops, so I called my veg supplier and found out Dish by Chris Eden, head chef at The Driftwood Hotel 90 MANOR | Spring 2015 food they have golden turnips and ice lettuce, and my dish for the day started to be created.” He continues: “We are clever with our food so we get empty plates back and that’s all I could ask for.” For years, Padstow has been a high-profile foodie centre. Chef Paul Ainsworth (right) retains his Michelin star at Number 6 for the third consecutive year. “This Michelin star means the world to me. Something fundamental changed when we got our star – it gave me more confidence and made us a better restaurant,” he explains. “Crucially, Michelin is the only guide that is non-trend led. For me, it’s the ultimate credit and every chef I know aspires to reach that standard.” This year, Paul and his Crucially, Michelin is the only guide that wife Emma open a boutique B&B nearby with six is non-trend led. For me, it is the ultimate luxury rooms. “I want to continue giving exciting credit and every chef I know aspires to challenges to my brilliant team.” Paul has seen the Cornish food scene “go through a revolution” and reach that standard he’s genuinely pleased that his customers take an PAUL AINSWORTH active interest in food provenance. This region has a strong fishing and farming heritage of which Nathan Outlaw is particularly proud. “Westcountry fish and seafood really is the best in the UK, and possibly the world, and we have fantastic meat, vegetables and artisan producers too,” says Nathan. “Cornwall’s food identity has changed dramatically from the pasty and clotted cream days (not that those things aren’t still wonderful!) to the very high quality foods being produced now.” To Nathan, who has one Michelin star at Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen in Port Isaac and two at Outlaw’s at St Enodoc Hotel in Rock, each star means the very best hospitality, food and drink. “I’m always looking for ways to improve. Retaining a Michelin star is much harder than gaining one,” he comments. This year, he and his wife Rachel are relocating Restaurant Nathan Outlaw to Port Isaac – the first restaurant they have set up totally on their own. One thing’s for sure, it will be a relaxed place to eat: “I can’t stand places where you’re MIKE ENGLISH PHOTO: frightened to breathe or snooty waiters glare at you for asking a question about the menu. I think Michelin- starred eating is much more accessible now. The whole point is for the customer to enjoy the experience!” Nathan Outlaw MANOR | Spring 2015 91 food When Anton Piotrowski of The Treby Arms, situation. It makes a lot of city chefs jealous.” near Plymouth, found out he had won his first Simon’s skill is finding suppliers who have the Michelin star last year, he “cried like a baby”. He’s same love for food as he does. “Local sourcing is the first BBC Masterchef contestant to ever reach this important and we pick our own farm produce, level. “No chef wouldn’t want a Michelin star, but I herbs and edible flowers every morning to order as have never been one for just chasing accolades for the we grow them on site.” Simon and his team work sake of it – I cook from the heart and if I followed closely with forager David Harrison who sources other people’s trends I’d lose that passion,” says herbs, mushrooms and wild fruits from the moors, Anton, a chef proud of his Devonshire upbringing. woodlands and shoreline. Whilst the kitchen at Treby is run like any Michelin- With 37 years’ experience, Mark Dodson starred establishment, front-of-house is a family-run knows that consistency is the key to success. “We country pub with stripped tables and paper napkins. offer 11 services every week and it’s essential we “Perception is changing – Michelin isn’t about fine- reach the same standard every single time we open dining, it’s about fantastic food, whatever that may our doors,” says Mark, who has held a Michelin star be. We serve pies, sustainable fish and chips with at the Mason’s Arms in Knowstone on Exmoor for white wine batter, and duck heart which is really 10 years. “There’s been an explosion of gastropubs popular.” As proprietor Anton has the freedom to across the country – these days it’s difficult for rural innovate, he and his landlady wife Clare are setting pubs to survive on wet sales alone, so we have to be up a gypsy caravan tasting room by the pub. food-led.” Mark enjoys letting the public into his Further along the coast, Simon Hulstone small kitchen for his regular masterclasses: “My aim has held one Michelin star at The Elephant since is to demystify the role of the chef and to break down 2006, the first restaurant in Torquay to receive this great cooking into small, achievable techniques. accolade. “Torquay is on the up and great restaurants Cooking shouldn’t be intimidating, and it’s only a are opening all around us,” says Simon, for whom matter of doing a few extra simple things to transform fantastic homegrown ingredients are the key to good food into excellent food.” success. “Torquay is surrounded by quality produce, With 16 hour days in the kitchen, staying at the the fish from Brixham market is world-renowned top is hard work and after 20 years at the prestigious and the farms on the Devon hills are fantastic; add Gidleigh Park on Dartmoor and two Michelin stars, to this our own farm produce and I’m in a win-win Michael Caines MBE is not one to rest on his Treby’s Gone Carrots, Anton’s Masterchef-winning dessert 92 MANOR | Spring 2015 food laurels. “It is a massive challenge to get Michelin stars and equally hard to keep them,” Michael tells me. “I focus on trying to achieve a third star – my motivation is to cook to the highest level and Gidleigh Park allows me to do that whilst celebrating what is great about the Westcountry. I want to serve the best and continue to be the best!” This region provides an inspiring larder of produce to work with, and Michael has witnessed a huge growth in homegrown talent and great destination restaurants. In addition to Michael’s new restaurants as far flung as Abu Dhabi and Shropshire, he’s adding a touch of Caines magic to Kentisbury Grange, on Exmoor. He has just bought his own country house hotel, Courtlands in Lympstone, and has plans to renovate the property into luxury accommodation with his passion for food and wine at the heart of it. Meanwhile, he continues to work tirelessly to keep Gidleigh at the top: “In my business, you are only ever as good as your last meal!” The stars of the West Chris Eden: Portscatho. driftwoodhotel.co.uk Paul Ainsworth: Padstow. number6inpadstow.co.uk Nathan Outlaw: St Enodoc Hotel and Rock and Fish Kitchen, Port Isaac. outlaws.co.uk Anton Piotrowski: Sparkwell. thetrebyarms.co.uk Simon Hulstone: Torquay. elephantrestaurant.co.uk Mark Dodson: Knowstone. masonsarmsdevon.co.uk Michael Caines: Chagford. gidleigh.co.uk PHOTO: DAVID GRIFFEN ONES TO WATCH Keep an eye on these MANOR favourites – chefs serving special food we think is worthy of a star in the future. Noel Corston, NC@EX34, Woolacombe – simple, honest food, with a seasonal tasting menu. Fiona Were, Mullion Cove Hotel, Lizard Peninsula – FOLLOW THE TRAIL modern British cuisine with by Sara Nunan features numerous classic South West The South West Michelin Trail international twists. landmarks as well as all the Michelin-starred restaurants in the region, beautifully illustrated exclusively for MANOR Magazine. See larger version overleaf. JP Bidart, Millbrook Inn, Readers can buy a 59.4cm x 42cm limited-edition fine art giglee print of The South near Kingsbridge – serving West Michelin Trail for £79.95 plus postage. Offer ends 30 April 2015. nose-to-tail meat, often from the pub’s farm Go to manormagazine.co.uk/specialoffers to purchase or for more information contact [email protected] MANOR | Spring 2015 93 94 MANOR | Spring 2015 The Michelin Trail 2015 MANOR | Spring 2015 95 food Stargazey pie from Nathan Outlaw's Fish Kitchen PHOTO: DAVID LOFTUS 96 MANOR | Spring 2015 food From hook to plate Anna Turns asks questions about buying and eating fish Local boats land at Sutton Harbour, the country's second largest fishing port.
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