One of the most successful innovations to come out of the Black Forest.

And a cuckoo clock.

The difference is Gaggenau. In the Black Forest, some things never change. Others have been evolving since 1683. Ever since our company was founded as a hammer and nail works, innovation has become a tradition for us. Such as the ovens 400 series, shown here with oven, Combi-steam oven and warming drawer – uniting cutting-edge technology with superior design. Finally, our appliances have been constantly evolving. What stays the same: they just keep looking better and better. For more information please call 0344 8928988 or visit www.gaggenau.com

Northcote_BlackForest_210x297_SP_UK.indd 1 05.10.16 11:20 TRUEfoods-AD-SEPT16-PRINT.qxp_Layout 1 27/09/2016 12:44 Page 1

Nigel Haworth introduces Obsession 2017 Monday 20th January to Sunday 5th February

From Europe we have Hans Neuner from his name as one of the Young Turks Ocean restaurant, two-star, Austrian by birth, co-operative in East – my daughter his roots are firmly in Portuguese cuisine. Keeley was one of their biggest fans – and From Italy we have Gennaro Esposito from John Williams, Chairman of the Royal restaurant Torre del Saracino, with his amazing Academy of Culinary Arts, brings his team flavours of seafood and pasta. from The Ritz, again congratulations in We’re very fortunate to have Ana Roš from receiving a well-deserved Michelin star. Slovenia, she is also someone ’ve admired for This year we’re also celebrating Chinese a long time. Anna cooked with Lisa in India New Year with Zhao Guang You and Lu Yao, at a major charity event. Lisa will be cooking two of China’s top chefs. From Japan we have her own night with Claire Clark, Anna Hansen our two Michelin star chef Shinichiro Takagi and Chantelle Nicholson – that will be a really from Ashiya, a small city between Osaka and elcome to Obsession 17. special night. Kobe. Takagi specialises in Kaiseki cuisine. We have a fantastic line up We have serious young talent from Australia, Finally my old friend and Michelin star of 23 top chefs cooking over Daniel Puskas from restaurant Sixpenny in chef Atul Kochar joins us to cook his modern W 17 nights – a snapshot of Sydney and Pasi Petänen from his eponymous contemporary Indian cuisine. global cuisine. This year we’ve pushed the Café Pasi in Sydney. Pasi was my son Kirk’s head What started as a little celebration for our boundaries again, bringing an even greater chef when he worked at Marque in Sydney and customers, has become a monster event that variety of chefs from around the world. Daniel was Rene Redzepi’s head chef at . has gained real solidity and acclaim, a genuine It’s great to have Tony Baker of Montrio Our congratulations to James Close of Raby festival that people at the top of their profession Bistro in Monterey, who was instrumental in Hunt in Darlington, who has just won his want to take part in and be associated with. me cooking at the Festival of Food and Wine second Michelin star. He will also be joining I know your going to love Obsession 17! in Carmel, California, in 1999 – this was my us for Obsession 17. inspiration for Obsession. Tony is cooking with Also in the line-up is Michael O’Hare who good friends Justin Cogley from restaurant shot to fame over the last two years with Aubergine at L’Auberge, Carmel and Ben appearances on and Spungen executive pastry chef from Post then gaining a star for his Leeds restaurant Ranch in the Big Sur, one of the most iconic Man Behind the Curtain. hotels in California. Isaac McHale of the Clove Club made

HEADLINE SPONSOR THE CHEf TAbLE SPONSOR Electrolux Professional provides globally renowned kitchen solutions and Gaggenau is a manufacturer of high-quality home appliances and innovative products to meet the needs of chefs at Northcote; the home acknowledged as an innovation leader in design and technology. of Obsession 17. 0344 8928988 0844 375 3444 • www.electrolux.co.uk/professional www.gaggenau.com/gb UNCOMPROMISING KITCHEN SPONSOR KITCHEN SPONSOR TRAVEL SPONSOR FRESH STOCK A specialist supplier of sous vide and vacuum The UK’s top chefs can’t all be wrong, Gold Medal Travel’s Pure Luxury provide packaging equipment and authorised distributor TRUEfoods stocks, made without compromise. personally tailored worldwide holidays to of a great range of domestic sous vide equipment 01765 640 927 exact specifications of individuals, couples by Sous Vide Supreme. www.truefoodsltd.com or family groups. 01524 770060 • www.sousvidetools.com 0800 747 0000 • www.pureluxuryholidays.co.uk

Skipton TRUEfoods • Hallikeld Close • Melmerby • North Yorkshire • HG4 5GZ TEL: +44 (0)1765 640 927 • [email protected] • www.truefoodsltd.com Chef Profiles written by food journalist and writer Andy Lynes, www.andylynes.com

QUOTE: NO2017

NORTHCOTE OBSESSION 47 2001 2012 TERRY LAYBOURNE 21 Queen Street, Newcastle CLAUDE BOSI , London PHILIP HOWARD , London BRYN WILLIAMS Odettes, London NICK NAIRN Nairn’s, Glasgow MADALENE BONVINI-HAMEL The British Larder, Suffolk NIGEL HAWORTH & CHARLES METCALFE Northcote, Lancashire LISA ALLEN Northcote, Lancashire SIMON RIMMER Greens, 2002 HANS NEUNER Ocean, VilaVita Parc, Portugal MICHAEL SMITH The Three Chimneys, Isle of Skye GERMAIN SCHWAB Winteringham Fields, Lincolnshire AKTAR ISLAM Lasan, Birmingham PHILIP HOWARD The Square, London Hand and Flowers, Buckinghamshire ROBBIE MILLAR Shanks Restaurant, Bangor ANTONIN BONNETT Capital, London BRIAN TURNER Turners Restaurant, London NIGEL HAWORTH Northcote, Lancashire DANIEL COUET Fredsgaten 12, Stockholm NIGEL HAWORTH & CHARLES METCALFE Northcote, Lancashire

2003 CHRIS & JEFF GALVIN Orrery & The Picasso Room, London CHRISTIAN OLSSON Vassa Eggen, Stockholm PHILIP HOWARD The Square, London , Berkshire JOHN TORODE Smiths of Smithfield, London NIGEL WIGGLESWORTH Twin Farms, USA NIGEL HAWORTH & CHARLES METCALFE Northcote, Lancashire 2007 ANDREW PERN The Star Inn at Harome, Yorkshire RAYMOND BLANC Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons, Oxford 2013 JNR , London PHILIP HOWARD The Square, London PAUL CUNNINGHAM The Paul, Copenhagen DIEGO GUERRERO El Club Allard, Mardrid, Spain MICHAEL CAINES Gidleigh , BRUNO LOUBET Bistrot Bruno, London PHILIP HOWARD The Square, London DIETER KOSCHINA Vila Joya, Portugal NIGEL HAWORTH Northcote, Lancashire CYRUS TODIWALA Café Spice Namaste, London TOM CATHERALL Here 2 Serve Restaurants, USA AGNAR SVERRISSON Texture, London 2008 LISA ALLEN Northcote, Lancashire ANTHONY FLINN Anthony’s Restaurant, Leeds ANNA HANSEN The Modern Pantry, London 2004 MARK EDWARDS Nobu, London ASHLEY PALMER-WATTS Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, London PETER GORDON The Providores and Tapa Room, London Pierre Koffmann at The Berkley, London NIGEL HAWORTH Northcote, Lancashire JOHN CAMPBELL The Vineyard at Stockcross, Berkshire Restaurants, London 2010 ROWLEY LEIGH Kensington Place, London PHILIP HOWARD The Square, London 2014 DARINA ALLEN Ballymaloe Cookery School, Ireland SHANE OSBORN Pied à Terre, London TOM KITCHIN The Kitchin, Scotland PHILIP HOWARD The Square, London NIGEL HAWORTH Northcote, Lancashire MATTHEW FORT & TOM PARKER BOWLES Journalistic Duo PAUL AINSWORTH Number 6 Restaurant, Cornwall GIORGIO LOCATELLI Locanda Locatelli, London THEO RANDALL Theo Randall at The Intercontinental, London ERIC CHAVOT Brasserie Chavot, London NIGEL HAWORTH Northcote, Lancashire KEN HOM Maison Chin, Bangkok, Thailand GARY JONES Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons, Oxford LISA ALLEN Northcote, Lancashire PAUL CUNNINGHAM Henne Kirkeby Kro, Denmark ANGELA HARTNETT Murano, London ADAM BYATT Trinity, London 2005 NATHAN OUTLAW , Cornwall JONRAY AND PETER SANCHEZ Casamia, Bristol ERIC CHAVOT The Capital, London PHILIP HOWARD The Square, London MICHAEL WIGNALL Micheal Wignall at the Latymer, Surrey Restaurant Sat Bains, Nottingham JACOB JAN BOERMA Restaurant De Leest, Holland ADAM SIMMONDS Adam Simmonds at Danesfield House, Bucks DIETER KOSCHINA Vila Joya, Portugal ANDREW FAIRLIE Restaurant Andrew Fairlie, Scotland LISA ALLEN Northcote, Lancashire ROY BRETT Seafood Restaurant, Cornwall NIGEL HAWORTH Northcote, Lancashire NIGEL HAWORTH Northcote, Lancashire PHILIP HOWARD The Square, London RICHARD CORRIGAN Lindsay House Restaurant, London 2011 NIGEL HAWORTH Northcote, Lancashire KENNY ATKINSON The Orangery, Rockliffe Hotel, Durham 2009 MARTIN BURGE , Oxford 2006 DANIEL CLIFFORD , Cambridge MARTIN WISHART Restaurant Martin Wishart, Scotland CLAUDE BOSI Hibiscus, London SHAUN RANKIN Bohemia Bar and Restaurant, Jersey SIMON ROGAN L’Enclume, Cartmel DAVID THOMPSON Naham, London GLYNN PURNELL Purnell’s 55, Birmingham HUGH FEARNLEY-WHITTINGSTALL River Cottage, Dorset FERGUS HENDERSON St John Restaurant, London PHILIP HOWARD The Square, London LISA ALLEN Northcote, Lancashire ANDONI LUIS ADÚRIZ Mugaritz, Spain BRETT GRAHAM , London CLAIRE CLARK Formerly of The French Laundry, USA MARK HIX Caprice Holdings, London ATUL KOCHHAR Benares Restaurant and Bar, London JAMES MARTIN , BBC BRUCE POOLE , London JASON ATHERTON Maze, London SAT BAINS Restaurant Sat Bains, Nottingham PHILIP HOWARD The Square, London PAUL HEATHCOTE Heathcotes, Longridge VIVEK SINGH The Cinnamon Club, London NIGEL HAWORTH Northcote, Lancashire NIGEL HAWORTH Northcote, Lancashire NIGEL HAWORTH Northcote, Lancashire

48 NORTHCOTE OBSESSION NORTHCOTE OBSESSION 49 Sous Vide Obsession Advert October 2016 v5.qxp_Layout 1 10/10/2016 09:24 Page 1

S R LS O O S O N T O 17 E P 0 ID S 2 V N S E N U H IO O TC S S I ES K S D B U O O F PR O THE ART OF SOUS VIDE EXCLUSIVE OFFERS FOR OBSESSION

2015 2016 CHRIS & JEFF GALVIN Galvin Restaurants, London JEAN-LUC ROCHA Chateau Cordillean – Bages, Bordeaux, France MARTIN KLEIN Ikarus Das Restaurant, Hangar 7, Austria MARK JORDAN Ocean Restuarant, Jersey JACOB JAN BOERMA Restaurant De Leest, Netherlands TOM SELLERS Restaurant Story, London ENRICO & ROBERTO CEREA Da Vittorio, Brussaporto, Italy ANNIE FEOLDE Enoteca Pinchiorri, Florence, Italy PHILIP HOWARD The Square, London AKTAR ISLAM Lasan, Birmingham BRETT GRAHAM The Ledbury, London ANGELO SABATELLI Angelo Sabatelli Ristorante, Monopoli, Italy VIVEK SINGH The Cinnamon Club, London MARCO STABILE Ora D’aria Ristorante, Florence, Italy DIETER KOSCHINA Vila Joya, Portugal LANSHU CHEN Le Moût, Taichung City, Taiwan MATTEO FERRANTINO Vila Joya, Portugal ANDRÉ GARRETT André Garett at Cliveden, Berkshire MIGUEL LAFFAN L’And Vineyards Restaurant, Portugal HIDEAKU MATSUO Kashiwaya, Osaka, Japan VITOR MATOS Casa Calcada, Amarante, Portugal PETER TEMPELHOFF Greenhouse at the Cellars-Hohenhort, JOSÉ AVILLEZ Belcanto, Lisbon, Portugal Cape Town, South Africa TSUYOSHI MURAKAMI Kinoshita, Sao Paulo, Brazil ARNAUD BIGNON The Greenhouse, London GAGGAN ANAND Gaggan, Bangkok, Thailand ROBERT ORTIZ Lima, London KLAUS ERFORT GästeHaus, Saarbrücken, Germany DIEGO HERNANDEZ Corazón de Tierra, Ensenada, Mexico MARGOT JANSE Le Quartier Français, South Africa WOJCIECH MODEST-AMARO Atelier Amaro, Warszawa, Poland ANGELA HARTNETT Murano & Limewood, London LISA ALLEN Northcote, Lancashire LISA ALLEN Northcote, Lancashire CHANTELLE NICHOLSON Restauarants, London KEN HOM OBE Internationally acclaimed Chinese Chef NIGEL HAWORTH Northcote, Lancashire SHAUN HERGATT Juni, New York, USA SAVE AN EXTRA 10% WITH OBSESSION QUOTE OBSESSION17 SHAUN RANKIN Ormer Restaurant, Jersey GLYNN PURNELL Purnell’s, Birmingham KENNY ATKINSON House of Tides, Tyne & Wear DANNY MILLAR Balloo House Bistro, Newtownards, NI NIGEL HAWORTH Northcote, Lancashire SAVE SAVE SAVE 10% 10% 10%

SOUSVIDE SUPREME SOUS VIDE SUPREME OBSESSION 2016 DEMI OBSESSION PROMOTION SVS-10LS OBSESSION PROMOTION COOK BOOK (BY NIGEL HAWORTH) WITH SAVING ONLY £269.99 WITH SAVING ONLY £359.98 WITH SAVING ONLY £35.99 OBSESSION BOOKING HOTLINE OPENS 8am TUESDAY 1st NOVEMBER 2016 SOUS VIDE TOOLS 0333 999 7762 PROUD KITCHEN SPONSORS OF OBSESSION 2017 Please do not try to book before the hotline opens For your personal assessment of what sous vide equipment will be right for your business, contact Sous Vide Tools: call 0800 678 5001 or visit: www.sousvidetools.com 50 NORTHCOTE OBSESSION email: [email protected] tweet: @sousvidetools FRIDAY 20TH JANUARY 2017 SATURDAY 21ST JANUARY 2017 MICHAEL WIGNALL GARETH WARD YNYSHIR Chagford Eglwysfach, Machynlleth Devon TQ13 8HH Powys, Wales SY20 8TA +44 (0)1647 432 367 +44 (0)165 478 1209 [email protected] [email protected] www.gidleigh.co.uk www.ynyshirhall.co.uk

7.30pm for 8.00pm 7.30pm for 8.00pm Louis Roederer Brut Premier and canape reception Louis Roederer Brut Premier and canape reception Five- signature menu Five-course signature menu £130 per person £130 per person Wines to complement every dish are carefully Wines to complement every dish are carefully selected by Craig Bancroft and the wine team selected by Craig Bancroft and the wine team Please enquire for exclusive wine package price Please enquire for exclusive wine package price

ichael Wignall has had a Hotel, Michael’s Nook in the Lake District and the finest local ingredients with the hotel’s chairs and vivid artworks by former owner food is far from being fusion). star studded career, literally, The Burlington Restaurant at The Devonshire own produce, dishes such as pastrami of Anjou Rob Reen looks out onto the beautifully Ward also makes optimum use of the winning the coveted awards Arms in the Yorkshire Dales. squab pigeon with celeriac, nasturtium leaves, maintained gardens. abundance of fresh local ingredients, from M from the for In his youth, Wignall was a talented BMX watercress, smoked fresh ricotta and hen of Ward’s impressive CV includes Hambleton Cardigan Bay seafood to Welsh Wagyu no less than six different establishments. He rider and could have turned professional but the woods mushrooms or loin of Dartmoor Hall, Rutland and Seaham Hall, County Durham, beef and local Welsh lamb, wild game and currently holds two Michelin stars as head decided on catering college instead. Following lamb and haslet with spiced young parsnip with but it was his time at Restaurant Sat Bains in fermented pickles and preserves, foraged chef of Gidleigh Park, one of Britain’s finest a stint working in restaurants in Spain, puffed rice, cauliflower and sweetbreads are Nottingham that has proved to be the most wild food as well as produce from the country house hotels, winning them within Wignall returned to the UK to work with evidence of a truly original, creative culinary influential on Ward’s highly creative style. In her restaurant’s kitchen garden. nine months of taking over the kitchens. Paul Heathcote at Broughton Park Hotel in brain at work. He previously held two stars as head chef Lancashire and at Heathcote’s in Longridge. The Gidleigh Park restaurant is currently listed of The Latymer Restaurant at Pennyhill Park He headed south to take a position at L’Ortolan in the Guide’s Top 50 for 2017. Ward’s playful side comes out in dishes like ‘Lager & Lime’ in Surrey and a one star for Old Beams in near Reading with John Burton Race before Wignall has appeared on BBC TV’s Masterchef (lager jelly with lime yoghurt) and ‘Not French Onion Soup’ Staffordshire, Waldo’s Restaurant in Cliveden moving back up north to begin his unbroken and Masterchef: The Professionals. areth Ward has ushered in a Michelin star winning run of head chef positions new era at one of Wales’ most 9/10 review for the Telegraph, critic Fiona Since taking the reins at Ynyshir, Ward has at the Old Beams. prominent culinary destinations. Duncan described Ward as ‘a rising star’ who is won a Michelin star and four AA rosettes for Previously known as Ynyshir ‘always coming up with new ideas and loves the restaurant. The Good Food Guide awarded ‘Technically dazzling, G surprises’ while olive magazine said Ward’s it a 7/10 marking and a place in its list of the Hall and styled as a country house hotel, the compellingly complex, totally historic building was re-christened ‘Ynyshir’ food is ‘sensational’. Ward’s playful side comes top 50 restaurants in the UK. But he’s hungry modern but always delicious’ last autumn and re-born as a restaurant with out in dishes like ‘Lager & Lime’ (lager jelly with for more, stating in a recent interview that his luxury rooms. Nestled beneath the Cambrian lime yoghurt) and ‘Not French Onion Soup’ ambition is to run the first two Michelin-starred Nestled deep within Dartmoor, Gidleigh Mountains amid tranquil, spectacular West that’s made with slow-cooked onions and miso, restaurant in Wales. With all that talent and Park is a magical setting for Wignall’s prodigious Wales scenery, Ynyshir has been a place of tofu and dashi (Japanese ingredients crop up ambition, it will surely only be a matter of time culinary talents. The century old stately home foodie pilgrimage since the early 90s when it a lot on Ynyshir’s tasting menu although the until that happens. on a hill, set in 100 acres of stunning grounds was named among the Top 10 Restaurants on the upper reaches of the River Teign, is in Wales by the Good Food Guide and has accessed by lanes that are so long, narrow and boasted a string of talented chefs including twisting that there’s a famous sign halfway up Les Rennie and Adam Simmonds. that says ‘Keep Heart, You Are Still En-Route’. Originally built in the 15th century, the hall Perseverance is more than rewarded with and extensive gardens were refurbished by the sight of the magnificent black and white Queen Victoria. More recently, the hall was timbered house that has been lovingly restored sold to William Hubert Mappin of jewellers, by owner Andrew Brownsword. Mappin and Webb. On his death in 1966, And then of course there’s Wignall’s food. 1,000 acres of the estate became an RSPB Technically dazzling, compellingly complex, bird reserve that still exists today. The dining totally modern but always delicious. Combining room, with its turquoise walls, green flock

52 NORTHCOTE OBSESSION NORTHCOTE OBSESSION 53 SUNDAY 22ND JANUARY 2017 MONDAY 23RD JANUARY 2017 JOHN WILLIAMS GENNARO ESPOSITO THE RITZ LONDON TORRE DEL SARACINO 150 Piccadilly Via Torretta, 9, 80069 Marina d’Aequa London W1J 9BR Vico Equense (NA), Italy +44 (0)207 493 8181 +39 081 802 8555 [email protected] [email protected] www.theritzlondon.com www.torredelsaracino.it

7.30pm for 8.00pm 7.30pm for 8.00pm Louis Roederer Brut Premier and canape reception Louis Roederer Brut Premier and canape reception Five-course signature menu Five-course signature menu £130 per person £130 per person Wines to complement every dish are carefully Wines to complement every dish are carefully selected by Craig Bancroft and the wine team selected by Craig Bancroft and the wine team Please enquire for exclusive wine package price Please enquire for exclusive wine package price

ohn Williams MBE is one of the most ennaro Esposito has carved out an historic exterior gives way to a starkly concept of Mediterranean cuisine’ while admired and respected chefs in the UK. enviable reputation within the modern and beautifully minimalist white influential foodie website Opinionated About The announcement of the Michelin star Italian restaurant scene, winning two on white interior where Esposito applies Dining said that Esposito’s signature dish Jaccolade for The Ritz Restaurant, where G Michelin stars for his progressive his uniquely inventive style to local and of fish soup thickened by 10 different types he has been executive chef for the last cooking at Torre del Saracino, the restaurant seasonal ingredients. It takes a high degree of pasta cooked in the broth is ‘something 13 years, was met with a standing ovation from he’s run for the last 25 years in his hometown of technical flair to produce the restaurant’s that every gourmand should experience at his peers at the guide’s live launch in central of Vico Equense near Naples. seven and nine course seafood heavy least once’. London in October 2016. He oversees a huge Growing up in the 1970s, Esposito began kitchen brigade of 65 chefs and is responsible his culinary career at the tender age of nine, His dishes are ‘an explosion of creativity that have inspired for the menus for The Ritz Restaurant, The working in his uncle’s pastry shop. Working Palm Court, The Rivoli Bar, Room Service and Dinner in the magnificent dining room of Duck Liver and Apricot; the Côte de Boeuf and at local pizzerias and restaurants as a teenager and influenced the whole concept of Mediterranean cuisine’ and the private dining rooms at William Kent The Ritz Restaurant, considered by many to Crêpes Suzette, showcase the harmonious led to a lifelong career in food, but it was House at the hotel. be the most beautiful hotel restaurant in the pairing of the kitchen and front of house teams. experience in the Michelin-starred kitchens of tasting menus of modern and visually Torre del Saracino was awarded its first The son of a Tyneside fisherman, Williams world, is a genuine gastronomic treat. You want Save room for desserts made by pastry chefs Gianfranco Vissani at Casa Vissani in Umbria stunning dishes such as ‘candle’ pasta with Michelin star in 2001 followed by a second was first taught to cook by his mother and went lobster, turbot, caviar and ? You could with skills of the highest order – hazelnut semi- and Alain Ducasse at his world famous three roasted artichokes and cod’s tripe, paccheri star in 2008. The restaurant has also held on to study at South Shields College and the bathe in them here. freddo with chocolate and vanilla sounds simple Michelin starred restaurants in Monaco and pasta with white turnip mousse, eel and three Gambero Rosso forks since 2003, prestigious College in London. but is an architectural marvel and tastes stunning. Paris, that kick started his career. After his green sauce or local Laticauda lamb with and was named best Campania restaurant His first job in a professional kitchen was in the ‘Williams has been a member A longstanding member of The Royal travels, Esposito returned to his coastal caramelized Nocerino onion cream and in 2006. Since 1999, Esposito has been a early 70s as commis chef at the Percy Arms of the Academy of Culinary Academy of Culinary Arts, John Williams was hometown in 1992 to open Torre del Saracino. black olive tapenade. member of Jeunes Restaurateurs d’Europe, Hotel in the tiny Northumbrian village of appointed Executive Chairman in 2004 and is He was still just 22 years old. The Michelin guide says that Esposito is, the association of young restaurateurs that Otterburn. He then moved to London where Arts for over the Committee Chairman for the Academy’s Set in a medieval watchtower right on the ‘always at the forefront of culinary trends’ and promotes high-quality culinary craftsmanship, he worked his way through the ranks at the 20 years and was appointed Annual Awards of Excellence and he continues beach, the restaurant boasts glorious views that his dishes are ‘an explosion of creativity passion for European gastronomy and local Royal Garden Hotel in Kensington and was Executive Chairman to work tirelessly to promote the education and over the Gulf of Naples. The characterful, that have inspired and influenced the whole traditions and produce. appointed Chef de Cuisine of the hotel. [ in 2004’ ] training of young chefs. In 1984, he became of Chef Director of the nearby, and very fashionable, Restaurant With his menus, Williams continues to build Le Crocodile (now closed) before spending on the principles and beliefs of Auguste Escoffier, 18 years with the Savoy Group of hotels and drawing inspiration from classic dishes and restaurants. His positions in the company making them relevant to today’s diner using included Maitre Chef des Cuisines at both the very best quality British produce in season, and Claridge’s. always precisely executed and impeccably Stepping off Piccadilly and through the presented. The evolution of signature, classic hallowed doors of The Ritz is like entering dishes such as the Wild Seabass with Sentiments another world, where traditional elegance and of the Sea, Oscietra Caviar and Braised Leeks; unfettered luxury are the watch words. Lunch the Canard à la Presse with Heritage Beetroot,

54 NORTHCOTE OBSESSION NORTHCOTE OBSESSION 55 TUESDAY 24TH JANUARY 2017 GIRLS’ NIGHT WEDNESDAY 25TH JANUARY 2017 Claire Clark www.claire-clark.com MICHAEL O’HARE CHantelle niCHolson – MarCUs wareinG restaUrants THE MAN BEHIND THE CURTAIN Marcus, The Gilbert Scott and Tredwells • www.marcuswareingrestaurants.com 68-78 Vicar Lane anna Hansen – tHe Modern PantrY Clerkenwell • +44 (0)207 553 9210 • [email protected] Top floor Flannels, Leeds LS1 7JH Finsbury Square • +44 (0)203 696 6565 • [email protected] • www.themodernpantry.co.uk +44 (0)113 243 2376 lisa Goodwin-allen – nortHCote [email protected] Northcote Road, Langho, Blackburn BB6 8BE • +44 (0)1254 240555 • [email protected] • www.northcote.com www.themanbehindthecurtain.co.uk 7.30pm for 8.00pm • Louis Roederer Brut Premier and canape reception • Five-course signature menu • £130 per person Wines to complement every dish are carefully selected by Craig Bancroft and the wine team • Please enquire for exclusive wine package price 7.30pm for 8.00pm Louis Roederer Brut Premier and canape reception Five-course signature menu Claire Clark CHantelle niCHolson £130 per person laire Clark MBE is the UK’s s Group Operations Wines to complement every dish are carefully best known pastry chef. Director for Marcus selected by Craig Bancroft and the wine team Most recently appearing Wareing, Chantelle Please enquire for exclusive wine package price Cas a judge on the BBC’s A Nicholson oversees some Bake Off Crème de la Crème series, of London’s highest profile restaurants her career has taken her from The Ritz, including the two Michelin-starred Claridges and House of Commons Marcus, The Gilbert Scott and to three Michelin starred The French Tredwells. In 2009, Nicholson won Laundry in California. She has been the prestigious Acorn Award that Photography: Peter Powell Senior Pastry Lecturer at Le Cordon recognises 30 rising stars of the Bleu Culinary Institute, won numerous hospitality industry under the age of ichael O’Hare is one of the only see a menu when they are presented medals for the British Olympic Culinary 30, and went on to help judge the most exciting young talents with a bill, so must put their trust in O’Hare’s Team and was one of the youngest awards the following year. She is to emerge on the British culinary genius. “People say I put odd flavours examiners for City & Guilds Advanced the co-author with Marcus Wareing culinary scene in recent years. together – I don’t,” O’Hare told Restaurant Pastry. She is the only female recipient of two cookery books Nutmeg and M His bold, dramatic style is as much inspired by magazine. “We focus on familiar flavours, step of the Meilleur Ouvrier de la Grande- Custard and The Gilbert Scott Book modern art and contemporary music as seasons it up a few notches and present it in an avant Bretange, the highest recognition of of British Food. or ingredients. Outspoken and outlandish, he’s garde way.” professional excellence. been known to sport silver boots and a leather O’Hare has appeared on BBC TV’s Great apron and his nick name of Hair Metal Chef British Menu where his dish ‘Emancipation’, a has been well earned with a series of striking modernist take on fish and chips, was served mullets, quiffs and dye-jobs. But behind the at the finale banquet celebrating the Women’s dazzling facade is a serious cook who won Institute, and has also appeared as a judge on a Michelin star within a year of opening his the programme. He was a chef mentor on anna Hansen lisa Goodwin-allen first restaurant. Yes Chef, a day time cookery show, also on orn in Canada and raised ancashire born Lisa After studying classical and modern ballet, the BBC. In 2016, O’Hare was appointed in New Zealand, Anna Goodwin-Allen has been O’Hare took a degree in aerospace engineering ‘We focus on familiar creative director of GG Hospitality, owned by Hansen MBE is one of head chef of Northcote before deciding on a career in the professional flavours, step it up a few footballers and . His the leading exponents of for more than a decade kitchen. He worked at Seaham Hall in Durham and notches and present it in projects with the company include The Rabbit B L John Burton-Race’s Landmark Hotel in London in the Moon restaurant in Manchester’s National fusion cooking in the UK. She is chef/ and was named Executive Head an avant garde way’ patron of The Modern Pantry in Chef in 2015. She has been named and Noma in Copenhagen before taking his first Football Museum and two hotel projects in Clerkenwell and has recently opened Restaurant Chef of the Year by the head chef position at The Blind Swine in York. the city. a sister restaurant in Finsbury Square. Craft Guild of Chefs, Best Chef of Opened on the top floor of the stylish and She worked for Margot and Fergus the Year at the Northern Hospitality upmarket Flannel’s department store in central Henderson at The French Dining Awards and has reached the finals Leeds in 2014, The Man Behind the Curtain Room in Soho before a formative of the Roux Scholarship and Young (named after both The Wizard of Oz and a period with Peter Gordon at the Chef Young Waiter competitions. song of the same name by obscure American influential Sugar Club in Notting Hill Her wild rabbit and leek turnover heavy metal band Valient Thorr) with its grey and Providores and Tapa Room in was served at the banquet of the resin floor, wool-upholstered Masculo chairs . She is the author of BBC’s Great British Menu TV series and outsized canvases by modern artist Schoph The Modern Pantry cookbook. in 2010. Schophield, gained critical acclaim from the offset. In her Guardian review, Marina O’Loughlin noted O’Hare’s ‘manic creativity’ and called a pork jowl encrusted with flakes of dehydrated squid ink as ‘flawless’ and ‘brilliant’. Diners at The Man Behind the Curtain

56 NORTHCOTE OBSESSION NORTHCOTE OBSESSION 57 THURSDAY 26TH JANUARY 2017 PASI PETANEN & DANIEL PUSKAS FRIDAY 27TH JANUARY 2017 Pasi Petanen Twitter: Pasi_Petanen • Instagram @pasip • www.cafepaci.com.au HANS NEUNER Daniel Puskas – siXPennY OCEAN RESTAURANT 83 Percival Road, Stanmore NSW 2048, Australia • +61 (0) 29 572 6666 • [email protected] • www.sixpenny.com.au Vila Vita Parc, Rua Anneliese Pohl 7.30pm for 8.00pm • Louis Roederer Brut Premier and canape reception • Five-course signature menu • £130 per person Wines to complement every dish are carefully selected by Craig Bancroft and the wine team • Please enquire for exclusive wine package price Alporchinhos, 8400 – 450 Porches, Portugal +351 282 310 100 [email protected] number 67 in the extended top 100 listing. The tasting menu of progressive Finnish cooking Petanen also helped Best write the restaurant’s with Asian influences included the likes of www.restaurantocean.com coffee table cookbook, published in 2012. lamb leg tartare with smoked capsicum and www.vilavitaparc.com togarashi (a Japanese spice blend). Petanen has recently shown off his mastery ‘In 2016, Petanen was 7.30pm for 8.00pm of vegetarian cookery at a one-night-only guest Louis Roederer Brut Premier and canape reception named the Good Food Guide’s spot at Yellow restaurant in Sydney where Five-course signature menu Chef of the Year’ the menu included potato, truffle, mushroom £130 per person and coffee. In 2013, Petanen (whose career has also In 2016, Petanen was named the Good Food Wines to complement every dish are carefully selected by Craig Bancroft and the wine team included stints at Chez Nico in London and Guide’s Chef of the Year, calling him a ‘chef’s Quay in Sydney) struck out on his own and chef and in possession of one of the most Please enquire for exclusive wine package price opened Cafe Paci, a two year pop up restaurant forward-thinking, idiosyncratic food brains in in Sydney’s vibrant Darlinghurst neighbourhood. the city’. Pasi Petanen or eight years, Finnish born chef Pasi Petanen headed up the kitchens for Mark Best at Marque restaurant, one ans Neuner is one of only three and white décor with its feature wall of shelves and herb garden that’s tended by the kitchen F of Sydney’s finest restaurants. During chefs in the whole of Portugal decorated with coral and floor to ceiling windows team. A daily supply of fresh fish and seafood Petanen’s tenure, the restaurant achieved to boast two Michelin stars. with magnificent sea views. Here Neuner serves comes from the Algarve coast while the hillsides three ‘hats’ in the Sydney Morning Herald’s Twice named Portugal Chef of his nine and 13 course tasting menus that the provide fresh herbs and an abundance of influential Good Food Guide (roughly the H the Year, Neuner became head chef at the Telegraph has called ‘a culinary work of art’, other local products. The estate at Hotel Vila equivalent of three Michelin stars), and was five star Hotel Vila Vita Parc luxury hotel and while the chef himself describes his food as Vita Parc’s sister resort Herdade dos Grous named ‘breakthrough restaurant’ in the 2010 beach resort in the Algarve in 2007. He won product-oriented modern Portuguese. His in the Alentejo provides organic fruit and World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards, making his first star after just two years in the position strikingly colourful and flavour-packed creations, vegetables, meat and even produces its own with the second bestowed in 2011. predominantly seafood, are served on a plethora olive oil and wine. Born in to a family of cooks in Tyrol, Austria, of beautiful bespoke serving pieces that help From this natural, local larder, Neuner and Sepia, as well as stints in two of America’s with radicchio and fermented cucumber and Neuner worked in the Dorchester Hotel in turn the meal into an event. creates opulent yet perfectly balanced dishes leading modern kitchens: WD-50 in New York lightly smoked duck with witlof and plum. London and two Michelin-starred Tristan such as crab with wagyu, grapefruit, carrots and and Alinea in Chicago. Puskas is a recipient of the prestigious Restaurant in Mallorca as well as restaurants imperial caviar; seabass served with morels, The name ‘Sixpenny’ is a reference to the Josephine Pignolet Best Young Chef award ‘His strikingly colourful in St Moritz and the Bermudas before settling and flavour-packed creations smoked egg and codfish sauce and ray with mid-19th century Australian restaurants that given to chefs under 30 making a difference to in Germany. As sous chef to two Michelin-star parsley and Jerusalem artichoke. served simple meals to the working classes for Sydney’s culinary landscape. Other recipients chef Karlheinz Hauser, he spent 10 years in are served on a plethora In an interview with Port magazine, sixpence each. You’ll have to pay a bit more include Brett Graham, now chef/proprietor Berlin (at the Hotel Adlon) and Hamburg (at of beautiful bespoke Neuner summed up what he’s trying to achieve to enjoy Puskas’ ingredient-led tasting menus of two Michelin-starred The Ledbury in the Seven Seas restaurant) before relocating serving pieces that turn the at Ocean. “I want our diners to experience in Sixpenny’s intimate, minimalist dining room, Notting Hill. to Portugal. meal into an event’ some really traditional Portuguese food but dishes such as venison tartare with boudin Set within subtropical gardens with lakes brought into our times. At the end of the noir, baked beetroot and hazelnut are worth it. ‘Puskas is a recipient of the and fountains, the hotel’s typically Portuguese Neuner has assembled a network of day if you want to experience some really Puskas pickles, smokes and ferments his ingredients, prestigious Josephine Pignolet whitewashed exteriors and tiled interior gives producers, farmers and fishermen to supplement kick-ass Portuguese dishes, you have to come some of which he grows himself, and presents Best Young Chef award’ way to Ocean’s modern shades-of-Med blue the produce from the hotel’s own vegetable to our place.” them in assemblies such as Spanish mackerel

Daniel Puskas n the charming and historic Sydney suburb of Stanmore, Daniel Puskas runs one of the most creatively ambitious I and critically lauded kitchens in Sydney. Set in a characterful corner building built in 1907, Sixpenny is the culmination of Puskas’ culinary career so far. He’s worked in some of Australia’s finest restaurants including Tetsuya’s

58 NORTHCOTE OBSESSION NORTHCOTE OBSESSION 59 SATURDAY 28TH JANUARY 2017 CHINESE NEW YEAR SUNDAY 29TH JANUARY 2017 Zhao GuanG You – JE ManSIon West Garden, 100025 Beijing (Chaoyang District), China • + 86 105 139 8739 • [email protected] • www.relaischateaux.com ANA ROŠ Lu Yao – YIhE ManSIonS HIŠA FRANKO No 3 Jiangsu Road • 210009, Nanjing (Jiangsu), China • + 86 258 486 8888 • [email protected] • www.yihemansions.com Valter Kramar s.p. 7.30pm for 8.00pm • Louis Roederer Brut Premier and canape reception • Five-course signature menu • £130 per person Wines to complement every dish are carefully selected by Craig Bancroft and the wine team • Please enquire for exclusive wine package price Staro selo 1, 5222 Kobarid, Slovenia 00386 5 389 4120 n 2017, Saturday 28 January is Chinese of the Chinese New Year (also known as 12 year cycle of the animal zodiac and 2017 [email protected] New Year so who better to mark the Spring Festival) marks the turn of the Chinese is the year of the fire rooster, a time of www.hisafranko.com occasion at Obsession than Zhao Guang lunar calendar, celebrated by those famously awakening, triumph and success – sounds just I You and Lu Yao, two of China’s finest colourful dancing paper dragons, firecrackers like Obsession itself. 7.30pm for 8.00pm chefs. The centuries old 15 day-long festival and great food. Each year falls under the Louis Roederer Brut Premier and canape reception Five-course signature menu Zhao GuanG You current role at JE Mansion. £130 per person hao Guang You is the Executive “I am very lucky to inherit China’s traditional Wines to complement every dish are carefully Chef of the luxurious JE Mansion imperial cuisine from an experienced teacher. selected by Craig Bancroft and the wine team hotel in Beijing. He studied the My dream is protecting China’s traditional Please enquire for exclusive wine package price complexities of imperial Chinese culture. I think traditional is classical,” says the Z chef, who serves dishes inspired by China’s most cuisine with master chef Wang Xifu, whose grandfather was a royal chef in the Forbidden important culinary traditions in the refined City. Zhao Guang You was the personal chef surroundings of the restaurant at JE Mansion. to a leader of the Chinese central government ‘Zhao Guang You serves and went on to become Executive Chef of dishes inspired by china’s most the Chinese People’s Political Consultative Conference member club before taking his important culinary traditions’ na Roš is a polymath. She speaks five languages, skied for Yugoslavia from the age of seven A and has studied both dance and diplomacy. But it’s food that’s she dedicated her life to, inspired by the spices, aromas and fragrances she first discovered during childhood family holidays. After meeting her husband Valter while studying in Italy, the couple embarked on a gastronomic trip that took them to the best restaurants in the world including , Lu Yao the 1920s when Nanjing was the seat of the The Fat Duck and El Cellar de Can Roca. dining room is decorated in warm, earthy pepper the menu such as fallopia japonica u Yao is the Chinese Executive Chef Nationalist government. No expense has been After an intense period of experimenting in tones while outside, the large terrace overlooks (Japanese knotweed) that Roš serves with of Yihe Mansions, a luxury 26 villa spared restoring the yellow walled buildings that her own kitchen, Roš opened Hiša Franko the breathtaking valley. trout accompanied by wild berries and hotel in Nanjing in China. Yao has a now boasts an elegant interior composed of with Valter (taking the restaurant over from The completely self taught Roš says she buttermilk; or pimpinella (a plant in the long and distinguished career in China, traditional artefacts and contemporary objects, Valter’s parents) in a country house outside takes an ‘almost scientific’ approach to dishes carrot family) that complements a dish of L fine woods, precious fabrics and Iranian green the town of Kobarid in the thickly wooded like mountain dog-rose with fermented cottage langoustine and watermelon. working for several five-star hotels belonging to Jinling, one of the top luxury hotel groups in China. marble. In the luxurious surroundings of the and stunningly beautiful countryside of the cheese, millet and roe buck that focus on local Roš has emerged as a leading national and He has displayed his mastery of Chinese cuisine hotel’s Dongyin/Yuanxia restaurant, Yao serves Soca Valley in the far west of Slovina, the ingredients sourced from within walking distance international culinary figure with her own series at banquet receptions, cooking for top dignitaries refined versions of authentic local dishes. region where she and Valter both grew up. of the restaurant, but that also incorporate on Slovinian TV and a number of documentaries including Chinese President Xi Jinping, Premier influences from nearby Italy and spices from about her and the restaurant including an Li Keqiang and former President Jiang Zemin. ‘He has displayed his ‘Roš has emerged her travels. Pasta might be topped with sheep’s episode of the acclaimed Netflix series Chef’s Opened in 2014, Yihe Mansions occupies the mastery of chinese cuisine at as a leading national milk cottage cheese, langoustines, black trumpets Table. She is the only female chef to have former private estates of ambassadors, the banquet receptions, cooking and international and bone marrow or , smoked apples, participated in the international Cook it Raw wealthy and the military elite that date back to for top dignitaries’ culinary figure’ tonka sauce and long pepper. Foraged ingredients experimental culinary programme. At various times over the last century, Hiša Franko has been a roadside inn, a village mill, a First World War hospital and an agricultural estate. For the last 16 years, it’s been home to three generations of Roš’s family in addition to being an idiosyncratic restaurant with rooms complete with herb, flower and vegetable garden and trout creek. Inside, the

60 NORTHCOTE OBSESSION NORTHCOTE OBSESSION 61 MONDAY 30TH JANUARY 2017 TUESDAY 31ST JANUARY 2017 JUSTIN COGLEY JAMES CLOSE AUBERGINE INN & RESTAURANT L’Auberge Carmel Summerhouse, Near Darlington Monte Verde at Seventh County Durham DL2 3UD Carmel-by-the-Sea, California 93921 +44 (0)132 537 4237 +1 831 624 8578 [email protected] www.auberginecarmel.com www.rabyhuntrestaurant.co.uk

7.30pm for 8.00pm 7.30pm for 8.00pm Louis Roederer Brut Premier and canape reception Louis Roederer Brut Premier and canape reception Five-course signature menu Five-course signature menu £130 per person £130 per person Wines to complement every dish are carefully Wines to complement every dish are carefully selected by Craig Bancroft and the wine team selected by Craig Bancroft and the wine team Please enquire for exclusive wine package price Please enquire for exclusive wine package price

ames Close has recently been quiet hamlet of Summerhouse in the North visually stunning dishes, all ‘inspired by simplicity’ recognised as one of the leading chefs East of , Raby Hunt is a 30-seat restaurant might start with something raw, perhaps a slice of in the UK with the award of two with rooms. The cosy dining room is clean, scallop with grapefruit and be counter balanced JMichelin stars. He was the only new modern and inviting with white painted walls, by a richly tempting salt crust cooked artichoke two starred chef in the 2017 guide and polished wood flooring and floral patterned skin stuffed with an offal ragu and topped with is one of only 21 chefs in the entire country upholstered chairs. frozen duck liver parfait. Vegetables are as core to hold the prestigious accolade. In addition, to the menu as meat and fish, as exemplified Close was named Chef of the Year 2017 ‘James Close has recently by the exquisite signature salad made of 28 by the Good Food Guide for his ‘talent and been recognised as one different, carefully prepared vegetables, herbs commitment to excellence’. and flowers. Not bad for a self-taught chef who started of the leading chefs in In his review, Observer restaurant critic out as a pro-golfer at Thirsk golf course before the UK with the award of Jay Rayner called Close an ‘impressive young ustin Cogley is the king of Californian Elysian Hotel in Chicago (now the Waldorf Cogley created the Rediscovering Coastal moving to London to work as a labourer. two Michelin stars’ chef with some very good ideas’, picking out coastal cuisine. Since taking over the reins Astoria) before relocating to Carmel. Cuisine culinary event where he invites chefs His only professional chef experience before duck breast with ragu of offal with crushed at Aubergine, the fine dining restaurant With the ocean just five blocks from his from around the US to collaborate on a opening Raby Hunt with his family in 2009 Close cites a meal at leading avant garde hazelnuts and sea bream with cod’s roe cream of the luxury L’Auberge hotel in the kitchen door, Cogley is a keen forager, collecting 12-course tasting menu that celebrates the was catering weddings at Headlam Hall Spanish restaurant El Celler de Can Roca and spinach for particular praise. J in Darlington where his main duties were in Girona as the experience that made him In addition to holding two Michelin stars, picturesque beach city of Carmel-by- seaweeds and wild mussels from the shore and biodiversity of the California Central Coast. the-Sea on the Monterey Peninsula, Cogley even stopping during his tri-athlete training Cogley’s contemporary and sophisticated ‘washing up and cutting carrots’. Within three decide to become a chef. His five and ten- Raby Hunt is placed at 42 in the Top 50 of has scooped up numerous awards for his runs from Carmel to Big Sur to pick red sorrel, seafood-led dishes served in the hotel’s intimate years of opening the restaurant, Close bagged course seasonally-led tasting menus created the Good Food Guide and has been named modern, inventive cooking. Not bad for a nasturtium and mushrooms along the trail. and smartly appointed dining room might his first Michelin star. from local ingredients share the modernist 17th best restaurant in the country by the former professional international figure skater. Such is his passion for the bounties of the sea, include oyster with seawater and caviar; crab Occupying a handsome, ivy-clad 19th century sensibilities of the establishment that inspired Sunday Times and is Living North Restaurant Cogley skated away from touring Asia, with green strawberry and mussel ‘frost’ and inn located on an old drovers road in the him. The perfectly balanced progression of of the Year. James Close is listed in Debrettes. Australia and Europe with Disney on Ice with Forbes Travel Guide abalone with lettuce and white tea. Forbes a wealth of culinary experiences, picked up describes a meal Travel Guide describes a meal at Aubergine from visits to restaurants and food markets at Aubergine as a as a ‘gastronomic adventure’ in which Cogley during his travels. On his return to the US, ‘gastronomic adventure’ displays ‘artistry and imagination’ while Travel he enrolled at the Western Culinary Institute and Leisure said dinner at Aubergine is a and began working in restaurants in Portland, ‘Don’t miss’ on a trip to Carmel. Oregon. After graduating with honours in 2005, Cogley’s numerous accolades include Grand he went to work for the late Charlie Trotter Chef Relais and Châteaux, Food and Wine at his fine dining restaurant in Chicago, one magazine’s Best New Chef and James Beard of the most acclaimed and influential in the Foundation Awards Best Chef nominee. Under history of American cuisine, where he rose to Cogley’s direction Aubergine has won Wine the position of Chef de Cuisine. Cogley went on Spectator’s Best of Award of Excellence and to become executive sous chef of the high-end Forbes Travel Guide’s highest ‘five-star’ rating.

62 NORTHCOTE OBSESSION NORTHCOTE OBSESSION 63 WEDNESDAY 1ST FEBRUARY 2017 CALIFORNIA BOYS THURSDAY 2ND FEBRUARY 2017 JUSTIN CoGLEy – L’aUBErGE see page 62 for profile BEN SPUNGIN – SIErra Mar rESTaUraNT ISAAC McHALE Post Ranch Inn • 47900 Highway 1, Big Sur, California 93920 • +1 831 667 2800 • [email protected] •www.postranchinn.com THE CLOVE CLUB ToNy BakEr – MoNTrIo BISTro Shoreditch Town Hall 414 Calle Principal, Monterey, California 93940 • +1 831 648 8880 • www.montrio.com • www.bakersbacon.com 7.30pm for 8.00pm • Louis Roederer Brut Premier and canape reception • Five-course signature menu • £130 per person 380 Old Street, London EC1V 9LT Wines to complement every dish are carefully selected by Craig Bancroft and the wine team • Please enquire for exclusive wine package price +44 (0)207 729 6496 [email protected] www.thecloveclub.com

7.30pm for 8.00pm Louis Roederer Brut Premier and canape reception Five-course signature menu £130 per person Wines to complement every dish are carefully selected by Craig Bancroft and the wine team Please enquire for exclusive wine package price

BEN SPUNGIN in Montpelier, Vermont. His first job after Lodge in Carmel Valley, California, Spungin en Spungin is one of the leading culinary school was in the pastry section of built relationships with local foragers and pastry chefs on America’s West the world famous three Michelin-starred French farmers in order to create dishes that better Coast. His wildly inventive, playful Laundry in the Napa Valley. reflected the region. and surprising desserts that have Following a stint as Corporate Executive B Pastry Chef of Coastal Luxury Management, included ice cream infused with oak wood and The Paddington in Sydney) and James Lowe The Clove Club (customers travel from all ‘He started his culinary career working within the company’s portfolio of bark, ‘illicit sweets’ (chocolates that resemble at 16 working at Fosters Market’ (now chef/proprietor of Lyles, London) to form over the world to sample McHale’s food), recreational drugs) and candies modelled after restaurants that includes Restaurant 1833 in the Young Turks collective and cooking at pop bagging a table in the restaurant at short lipsticks have graced the tables of some of Monterey, Spungin has returned to the Post up events around London together. notice can be tricky. But that’s where the bar California’s best restaurants. Spungin developed an interest in wild and Ranch Inn where he serves his signature glass McHale found a permanent base for The comes into its own. Pull up a stool and enjoy He started his culinary career at 16 working foraged ingredients while working as pastry chef dome-covered Chocolate Terrarium made Clove Club in 2013 in the grand surroundings of the signature buttermilk fried chicken and at Fosters Market, an acclaimed gourmet food at the Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur, something that with chocolate mousse cake, garden ice Shoreditch Town Hall, a 19th century Grade pine salt with an inventive and carefully made market and cafe in North Carolina before has influenced his work ever since. During his cream, edible plants, herbs and flowers and a attending the New England Culinary Institute eight year stint as pastry chef at Bernardus chocolate streusel made to resemble earth. ‘McHale can be found in the kitchen, creating up-to-the-second, modern dishes such as raw Orkney scallop, clementine, brown butter and Perigord truffle’ II listed building with high-coved ceilings and cocktail such as Give Bees a Chance made with saac McHale has taken The Clove Club Doric columns. With business partners Willis honey, lemon, egg white and vodka. from it’s modest East London supper and Smith working front of house, McHale With so much achieved in such a short time, club origins to a Michelin star and 26th can be found in the bare, modern restaurant’s it seems churlish to wonder what McHale in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants open kitchen that’s simply decorated with might do next. He seems in no rush to exploit I cerulean-coloured ceramic tiles, creating the TV and book opportunities that have been rankings in just over five years. It’s an astonishing achievement, but like all overnight successes up-to-the-second, modern dishes such as coming his way and there is no news yet of it’s one based on hard work, drive and ambition. raw Orkney scallop, clementine, brown a second restaurant. But with a dynamic and The Scottish chef began his career working in butter and Perigord truffle. ambitious character like McHale, you’d be restaurants in Glasgow and went on to learn Such is the popularity and reputation of advised to watch this space. from the very best, spending six years in the ToNy BakEr and Lucknam Park Hotel before moving to ingredients supplied by the area’s local farmers, kitchen at two Michelin-starred The Ledbury ritish-born Tony Baker wears not America in 1994, where his first job was with ranchers and fishermen in dishes such as wild with Brett Graham and interning around the just the executive chef of Montrio Downtown Dining Group. Since 2000, Baker Salmon with carrot and potato confit and beer world at Marque in Sydney, In De Wulf in Bistro in Monterey but has carved has celebrated local produce as Chef and Partner braised veal cheeks. Belgium and Noma in Copenhagen as well as out a niche for himself as the baron at the award winning Montrio Bistro, set in an Baker’s many awards include the United with in London. B historic converted firehouse in Monterey. The Fresh Produce Excellence Award, the American of Californian bacon, supplying Baker’s Bacon In 2010, McHale launched The Clove Club to the food service industry since 2011. He’s seasonal menu puts the focus on sustainable Culinary Federation’s Celebrated Chef of the in the Dalston flat he shared with two former also known locally as the ‘Artichoke Chef ’ Year Award and Edible Magazine’s Chef of the DJs, Daniel Willis and Johnny Smith, serving because of his long-standing relationship with ‘Baker has celebrated local Year-Monterey. Baker is a popular figure on the likes of mackerel, nasturtium and burnt artichoke growers Ocean Mist. local Californian radio and television and has puree to an adoring crowd. The buzz around produce at the award winning appeared on national television as the face and Baker graduated culinary school in Bristol in Montrio Bistro’ McHale increased when he teamed up with 1989 and went on to work at Hintlesham Hall voice of the Ove Glove and the Pogo Whisk. chefs Ben Greeno (now executive chef of

64 NORTHCOTE OBSESSION NORTHCOTE OBSESSION 65 FRIDAY 3RD FEBRUARY 2017 SATURDAY 4TH FEBRUARY 2017 SHINICHIRO TAKAGI ATUL KOCHHAR ZENIYA BENARES 2-29-7 Katamachi, Kanazawa-shi 12a Berkeley Square House Ishikawa 920-0981, Japan Mayfair, London W1J 6BS +81 76 233 3331 +44 (0)207 629 8886 [email protected] [email protected] www.zeniya.co.jp www.benaresrestaurant.com

7.30pm for 8.00pm 7.30pm for 8.00pm Louis Roederer Brut Premier and canape reception Louis Roederer Brut Premier and canape reception Five-course signature menu Five-course signature menu £130 per person £130 per person Wines to complement every dish are carefully selected by Craig Wines to complement every dish are carefully selected Bancroft and the wine team by Craig Bancroft and the wine team Please enquire for exclusive wine package price Please enquire for exclusive wine package price

hef Shinichiro Takagi is chef/patron Fort has called Kochhar ‘the spice artist’. Fans of the acclaimed Zeniya restaurant of Kochhar’s distinctive cooking include fellow ‘Fans of Kochhar’s in Kanazawa, his native city on the Michelin starred chefs Gordon Ramsay and distinctive cooking include Cwest coast of Japan. Takagi uses Tom Kerridge. fellow Michelin starred fresh, local fish and other ingredients from his Step into the entrance hall of Benares and chefs Gordon Ramsay home region of Ishikawa prefecture for his you leave behind the thrum and thrust of and Tom Kerridge’ superlative Kaiseki-inspired cuisine. London for somewhere altogether more calm After completing a bachelor’s degree in and exotic. Walk past the traditional wood commercial science at Nihon University, carvings and the modern mural depicting a (Old Delhi-style tandoori chicken with mango Takagi followed the family passion for food scene on the banks of the river Ganges in the and mint dressed salad) on the menu too. (his late father was a chef, as is his younger holy Indian city of Benares that the restaurant Kochhar is a familiar TV face from his numerous brother who also works at Zeniya) and takes its name from and ascend the stairs to appearances on programmes such as Saturday undertook culinary training at Arashiyama the contemporary bar and restaurant with its Kitchen, Masterchef and Great British Menu. Kitcho in Kyoto, one of the most lauded and decorative pool, textured walls and private He is the author of four cookery books: Simple exclusive restaurants in Japan. Aged 27, Takagi with seven stools, where the chef spends the like to eat and if you’ve been to other chef’s table. Indian; Fish Indian Style; Atul’s Curries of the returned home and joined the kitchen brigade majority of his time, serving his 10-course tasting restaurants in the area so that chef Takagi Kochhar fuses British ingredients with Indian World and Benares: Michelin Starred Cooking. at Zeniya and was appointed executive chef menus on classic Japanese lacquerware directly can plan a bespoke menu based on seasonal tul Kochhar is one of the leading spicing to create carefully presented plates such In addition to his flagship London restaurant five years later. to diners. There are also eight private dining produce from the market that day. Favoured chefs of his generation. In 2001, as New Forest venison served with a pot of Benares, his growing restaurant empire now Named after Zeniya Gohei, a Kaga merchant rooms at the back of the restaurant for a more ingredients include the roe of fish caught he was the first Indian chef in venison biryani, sauteed kale with chestnuts and includes Benares Madrid; Rang Mahal, Dubai; from the late Edo period who was a pioneer intimate dining experience. in the Sea of Japan, abalone that’s slow- the world to win a Michelin star oyster mushrooms and a highly original and NRI (Not Really Indian) and Lima in Mumbai; of overseas trade, the restaurant boasts a A delicious chocolate curry or a witty starter of Sindhu in Marlow and aboard the Oriana, Aurora, Takagi’s multi-course dinners, paired with simmered until meltingly tender and rare which he achieved as head chef of Tamarind traditional Japanese interior with a counter sake, are inspired by the traditional meals served regional mushrooms. in Mayfair. He repeated the feat in 2007 at tandoori pickling spiced pigeon. You’ll also find Arcadia, Ventura at East, Azura and Britannia his own Berkeley Square restaurant Benares traditional Indian classics such as tandoori murg P&O cruise ships and Indian Essence in Kent. ‘A meal at Zeniya is a true zen moment, one never to be and has retained the award ever since. Born in Jamshedpur, eastern India, Kochhar trained repeated that requires the full presence of mind’ in Dehli with the world famous Oberoi hotel group before moving to London in 1994. before Japanese tea ceremonies and are created Takagi has lectured at the prestigious Tsuji Kochhar has elevated and refined Indian individually for each customer. So a meal at Culinary Institute in Osaka and Tokyo. He is food, recreating it for a fine dining experience Zeniya is a true Zen moment, one never to be active on the international gastronomic scene, without sacrificing any of its essential character, repeated and that requires the full presence travelling abroad to cook his Kaiseki food and changing perceptions about and increasing of mind of both chef and customer. participate in culinary events. He has cooked awareness of one of the world’s finest cuisines When you make a reservation at Zeniya, alongside Alain Ducasse and Guy Savoy at into the bargain. The Telegraph has described you will be asked a series of questions such a charity banquet in Paris to help victims of his food as ‘sensational’ and raved about the as where you come from, what you don’t Japan’s earthquake and tsunami. ‘outstanding quality’ of the ingredients, Matthew

66 NORTHCOTE OBSESSION NORTHCOTE OBSESSION 67 SUNDAY 5TH FEBRUARY 2017 NIGEL HAWORTH NORTHCOTE Northcote Road Langho, Blackburn BB6 8BE +44 (0)1254 240555 [email protected] www.northcote.com

7.30pm for 8.00pm Louis Roederer Brut Premier and canape reception Five-course signature menu £130 per person Wines to complement every dish are carefully selected by Craig Bancroft and the wine team Please enquire for exclusive wine package price

chef’s job at Northcote Manor in March 1984 (as it was then known) and never looked back. Black pudding and buttered pink trout with mustard and nettle sauce is a longstanding signature dish that is robustly northern, yet retains a certain delicacy – it delivers big flavours but with refinement and cleverly balances tradition with modern sensibilities. It’s a good signifier for the Northcote culinary style that ranges from a highly seasonal milk fed Herdwick spring lamb with buttermilk, whey, garden peas and mint to a luxurious assembly of roasted Orkney scallop, Perigord truffle and chives. us to push to the next level and keeping a team together that’s harmonious.” It’s about partnerships In addition to retaining a Michelin star for in mind and soul over 20 years, Northcote was named AA Hotel that will allow us to push to of the Year 2017. Nigel has become a popular, jovial presence on British TV screens with igel Haworth has been the driving the next level and keeping appearances on shows such as Yes Chef, Saturday culinary force behind Northcote a team together that’s Kitchen, Sunday Brunch, Master Chef and a for more than 30 years and has harmonious’ winning appearance on the 2009 series of Great made Langho a place of gastronomic British Menu. Nigel is also planning to write a N “This year, the goal is to work with the garden British cookbook in the near future. pilgrimage for foodies from all over the country. His championing of regional British produce in a biodynamic way with all produce from and traditional British dishes has helped define an organic source. The garden will dominate the path of modern British cooking, inspiring the way forward with vegetables coming to countless chefs across the country to follow his the fore,” says Nigel. “I’ve got a great garden local, seasonal model. team here, led by Phill Dewhurst and we’re From humble beginnings as a student at working with Gazegill Organics in Rimington, Rossendale Catering College in Lancashire, a co-operative in Manchester and satellite Nigel worked at the Royal Berkshire Hotel in nurseries that are growing organic products. Serious injury Ascot, Gleneagles in Scotland and London’s We’re also becoming more self sufficient by Grosvenor House Hotel before spending five making our own butter and ricotta and curing years in Switzerland. After a three year sojourn more meat and fish ourselves. It’s all about It could happen to anyone. Even a famous chef like Heston Blumenthal. Thankfully, when lives fall apart Hospitality Action as lecturer at his old college, Nigel took the head partnerships in mind and soul that will allow is there to pick up the pieces. If you need support or would like to help visit www.hospitalityaction.org.uk

68 NORTHCOTE OBSESSION Registered Charity No. 1101083

HOS0026_CHEF_CAMPAIGN_A4_AW1.indd 1 02/07/2015 09:51 Electrolux Professional Kitchen Solutions As Obsession gears up for its “I split my time throughout the day In short, the kitchen at Northcote 17th event, we hear from Darren observing the chefs in the kitchen, is one of our flagship installations Lockley, Head of Region at before helping on the vegetable section in the UK. As a catering equipment Official Sponsor Obsession 2017 Electrolux Professional – the – which included practices as delicate manufacturer, we want to be able event’s headline sponsor for as removing leaves from Brussel to deliver much more than products the second year in a row sprouts without tearing them. I was also to customers; Northcote is a great and long-term partner involved with cooking the monkfish for example of this as we see both Nigel in the kitchens of Northcote. the fish course during service. and Lisa as partners in a constantly evolving relationship. The Obsession Reflecting on 2016 “Arnaud’s team were so well series epitomises this, and we hope organised they didn’t require much that our thermaline range goes above Last year was our first time at help, but it was fantastic to be a and beyond kitchen equipment, but Northcote for Obsession and it was a part of it on the day. Obsession is becomes a platform from which some fantastic experience to be part of. It’s a perfect description for the event. of the best chefs in the world can not often that so many of the world’s Without that level of ‘obsession’, the showcase their creations to UK diners, top chefs gather for a true festival of evening and food would not be up in one of the nation’s most highly- gastronomy, and we were delighted to the standard it was.” regarded restaurants. to play a part. Electrolux and Northcote: Electrolux Professional relationshop From an Electrolux Professional point the perfect partner – Nigel Howarth, Chef Patron at of view, we take particular pride in The relationship between Northcote Northcote the event given our long-standing and Electrolux Professional is much “We’ve been working with Electrolux relationship with Nigel Howarth and Our more than an event sponsor, or even for a number of years, and they Lisa Goodwin-Allen at Northcote, an equipment supplier. When Nigel were absolutely central to the following their decision to redesign and Lisa first approached us about redevelopment of our main kitchen the restaurant’s main kitchen with helping them redesign the kitchen at here at Northcote. From the initial our thermaline range of professional Northcote, we knew it would be the meetings, through to hosting us kitchen equipment. start of a long-standing partnership at their manufacturing site in that would, like the kitchen, keep Switzerland, we knew from the Northcote itself has been flying the evolving. outset that we could achieve the flag for British fine dining for 30 bespoke level design and robustness years, and it is incredibly exciting Nigel approached us for the kitchen needed to continue the evolution of to see the highly precise level of redesign following a number of Northcote and its food. This kitchen cooking Northcote’s chefs undertake collaborations in London, and we is truly put under the microscope on our own equipment. We saw this were delighted to be able be a part during Obsession, as we would not first hand during Obsession 16, when of the project. We invited both Lisa invite some of the best chefs of the the kitchen was visited and used by and Nigel to our Swiss thermaline world to cook in our kitchen if we ...is Kitchens factory to show how our equipment were not confident it would deliver some of the world’s most talented could be directly tailored to their – and culinary diverse – chefs. It everything needed to accommodate demands, and this proved crucial to each individual – and often wildly is not often you see your catering securing the contract. equipment being put through its different – cooking style. With our paces by a three michelin-star chef thermaline suite, I’d like to think our For example, Nigel was keen to limit guest chefs have everything at their cooking modern Italian food one the number of pans used and switch night, and then another three-star disposal to bring a taste of their own to a more direct cooking approach. restaurants here to Northcote.” chef cooking Japanese haute cuisine To accommodate this, we designed a few nights later, with a host of a bespoke made-to-measure island Electrolux Professional is the only featuring to planchas, each with four supremely talented chefs in between. food service solutions provider independently controlled zones; two worldwide offering a complete induction hobs; a bain marie; and a We took great pride that our range of high-performance rise and fall salamander grill. equipment was able to provide a products for professional kitchens platform for 18 chefs to deliver such Northcote’s thermaline system also and laundry under the same fantastic food over the course of brand. Electrolux Professional Obsession 16, and we are very much boasts two tilting ProThermetic braising pans, which act as an ideal provides best-in-class solutions and looking forward to seeing what innovative products with excellent culinary creations the 2017 line-up will ‘multipurpose system’ to boil, braise, griddle, steam or pressure cook; as features and services to meet the produce. well as create stocks and broths, all needs of even the most demanding in the same appliance. The control customers and which are frequently Beyond the Pass: Bradley Creese, panel also enables the extensive used under the same roof, working Training & Development Chef for team of chefs at Northcote to ‘hand in hand’ in businesses such Electrolux Professional, on his time add up to 1,000 recipes using the as hotels and in hospitals. in the Obsession kitchen programmable features, facilitating “I was there the day of two-Michelin consistency across staff rotations. starred chef, Arnaud Bignon (The Greenhouse, Mayfair). Finally, no modern kitchen would be complete without the backing of “I found the whole experience a state of the art combi oven and Haworth used this knowledge to fascinating. The meticulous detail of install an air-o-steam Touchline combi the dishes and professionalism of the oven from Electrolux Professional chefs in their preparation and service with an accompanying blast chiller in was amazing to see. stacked formation.

For more information Call: 08443 753 444 Email: [email protected] Visit: www.electrolux.co.uk/professional

Follow us on Twitter Follow us on LinkedIn @ElectroluxProUK Electrolux Professional UK