Aurélie Hazak's guide to South America Stop thinking your life: live it ! 203 days Table of Content Argentina...... 11 San Martin de los Andes...... 12 Lago Lácar...... 12 Puma Youth Hostel...... 12 Tourist Office...... 13 Dublin Bar...... 13
Villa La Angostura...... 15 Los Arrayanes National Park...... 15 Hostel La Angostura...... 15
San Carlos de Bariloche...... 18 Parque Llao Llao...... 18 Cerro Campanario...... 18 Pudu Hostel...... 19 Restaurant Don Juan...... 19
El Bolson...... 21 Lago Puelo...... 22 Tourist Office...... 22 Refugio Patagónico...... 22 Feria artesanale...... 22 Apunto...... 22
Buenos Aires...... 24 Barrio di Palermo...... 24 Barrio de Recoleta...... 25 Cultural Center, Ricoleta...... 25 Barrio de San Telmo...... 25 Jardín Zoológico, Palermo...... 26 Jardín Botànico Carlos Thays...... 26 Flee Market, San Telmo...... 26 Delta del Paraná...... 27 Hostel Suites Florida...... 27 La Giralda...... 27 El Antaneo (bookstore)...... 27 Laundry service...... 28 Montaña Ranch...... 28 Fabrica del Taco...... 28
1 Table of Content
Bomba del Tiempo...... 28 Maluco...... 28 La Guapachoza...... 29 Club Severino...... 29 Freddo (Ice Cream)...... 29 Persicco...... 29 San Telmo Shokudo...... 29 Museum...... 30 Chan Chan...... 30
Las Lenas...... 32 Skiing...... 32 Apertur...... 32
Mendoza...... 35 Parque San Martin...... 35 Backpacker Mendoza...... 35
San Miguel de Tucuman...... 37 Dique El Cadillal...... 37 Cerro San Javier...... 38 San Pedro de Colalao...... 38 Backpackers Tucuman...... 38 El Portal...... 38 Villecco...... 39 Hostel San Javier...... 39 Oh! Hostel...... 39 Cafayate (bakery)...... 39
Tafi del Valle...... 41 Cerro de la Cruce...... 41 Los Menhires...... 41 La Cascada...... 42 Hostel Nomades...... 42
Cafayate...... 44 Quebrada De Las Conchas...... 44 Ruinas de los Quilmes...... 45 Río Colorado...... 45
2 Table of Content
Backpacker Hostel...... 45 Goat cheese tasting...... 45 La Estancia...... 46 La Casa de las Empanadas...... 46
Salta...... 48 Bosque de San Lorenzo...... 48 Museo de Arqueologia d'Alta Montaña...... 48 Parque San Martin...... 49 Quebrada de Humahuaca...... 49 Cerro San Bernardo...... 49 Backpacker's Suites...... 50 Patio de Las Empanadas...... 50 Hostel De La Linda...... 50 XXJ...... 50
Tilcara...... 52 Pumahuarca...... 52 La Andaluz...... 52 La Chacana...... 53 La Peña de Carlitos...... 53
Resistencia...... 55 Parque Nacional del Chaco...... 55 Hotel Alfil...... 56
Mercedes...... 58 Hotel los Sobrinos...... 58
Corrientes...... 60 Costanera...... 60
Puerto Iguazu...... 62 Cataratas del Iguazú, Brazil...... 62 Hito de Tres Fronteras...... 63 Hostel Inn Iguazu...... 63
Cataratas del Iguazu...... 65 Aventura Nautica...... 65
3 Table of Content
Paseo Ecologico...... 66
Brazil...... 68
Curitiba...... 69 Linhea Turistica...... 69 Roma Hostel...... 70
Rio de Janeiro...... 72 Praia de Ipanema...... 73 Favela tour...... 73 Monumento ao Cristo Redentor...... 73 Pão de Açúcar...... 74 Sambódromo...... 74 Escadaria de Selarón...... 74 Rio Backpackers...... 75 Panda...... 75 Grill Inn...... 75 Aipo Aipi...... 75 Haré Burger...... 75 Barthodomeu...... 76
Parati...... 78
Recife...... 80 Recife Antiguo...... 80 Parque de Escultura Brennaud...... 80 Lampion...... 81
Jericoacoara...... 83 Taste caïpirinha in the street...... 83 Buggy Tour...... 84 Sunset from the sand dune...... 84 Jericoacoara Hostel...... 84 Café Brasil...... 84
Belem...... 86 Estação das Docas...... 86
4 Table of Content
Mercado Ver-o-Peso...... 86 Amazônia Hotel...... 87
Alter do Chao...... 89 Ilha do Amor...... 89 Festa do Cairé...... 90 Albergue da Floresta...... 90 Candeeiro...... 90
Manaus...... 92 Teatro Amazonas...... 92 Encontro dos Aguas...... 93 Jungle trip...... 93 Manaus Hostel Trip Tour...... 93 African House...... 94 Skina dos Sucos...... 94 Bar do Armando...... 94 Splash Pizza...... 94
Colombia...... 96
Bogota...... 97 Catedral Primada...... 97 Donacion Botero...... 97 Barrio La Candelaria...... 98 Museo del Oro...... 98 Musicology hostel...... 98 Tourist office...... 99 Lavanderia...... 99 Flee market...... 99 Crepes & Waffles...... 99
Cali...... 102 Iglesia de la Merced...... 102 Sunflower Pacific Hostel...... 103 la colina...... 103 Rodeo Bar...... 103
Popayan...... 105 5 Table of Content
Catedral...... 105 Iglesia Santo Domingo...... 106 Puente del Humilladero...... 106 Volcano del Puracé...... 106 Pueblo de Silvia...... 106 Parklife Hostel...... 107 La Fontana...... 107 Carmelita...... 107 Mora Castilla...... 107 Frutijugos...... 108 La Semilla Escondida...... 108 Rapiarepa...... 108 Pan Tolima...... 108 Wipala...... 108 MalaBar...... 108 El Sotareño...... 109
Tierradentro...... 111 Segovia...... 111 Church of San Andres de Pisimbala...... 112 Hostel La portada...... 112
Desierto de la Tatacoa...... 114 Observatory...... 115 Laberintos del Cusco...... 115 Yararaca...... 115
Villavieja...... 117 Museo Paleontológico...... 117 Paraiso...... 117 Restaurante Monterrey...... 118
Villa de Leiva...... 120 Plaza Mayor...... 120 El Fosil...... 120 L'Infiernito...... 121 Renacer Guesthouse...... 121 Carne & Olives...... 121
San Gil...... 123 6 Table of Content
Parque El Gallineral...... 123 Cascadas San Juan de Curi...... 124 Cathedral Santa Cruz...... 124 Parque La Libertad...... 124 Sam's VIP Hostel San Gil...... 125 Gringo Mike's...... 125
Barichara...... 127 Catedral la Immaculada Concepcion...... 127 El Camino Real...... 128 Guane...... 128 Restaurante Guayubi...... 128
Santa Marta...... 130 Bello Horizonte...... 130 Taganga...... 130 La Brisa Loca...... 131 Agave Azul...... 131 Ouzo...... 131 Umi Sushi...... 131 La Paila Caliente...... 132 Hostal El Noctambulo...... 132 Magic Tour...... 132
palomino...... 134 Hukuméizi Hotel...... 134
La Ciudad Perdida...... 136
Cartagena...... 138 Plaza de los Coches...... 138 Plaza de la Aduana...... 138 Volcan de Lodo El Totumo...... 139 Casa Viena...... 139 El Bistro...... 139
Medellin...... 141 El Poblado, Zona Rosa...... 141 Cable cars...... 141 7 Table of Content
Black Sheep Medellin...... 142 Verdeo...... 142 Babylon...... 142
Guatape...... 144 Piedra del Peñol...... 144 Iglesia de Santa Barbara...... 145
Salento...... 147 Horseriding to Cascadas San Rita...... 147 Valle de Cocora...... 148 Parque de Los Nevados...... 148 Hostel Tralala Salento...... 148 Pizza Punto y Coma...... 149 Alegra...... 149
8 9 10 Argentina
68 days & 17 stops Months: June |...| August
11 Step 1/41: San Martin de los Andes
About San Martin de los Andes Nice place to enter the Lakes' District. Very quiet, at least in low season, you can easily hike or bike around. Mountains, forest, lake, chocolate... You'll find all of that and more in San Martin de Los Andes ! Hotspots
Lago Lácar I arrived by 1 Bus/Coach It costed 20€
Travel time: 5 hours Got a bus from Pucon (Chili), direct to San Martin de Los Andes. Stop possible in Junin de Los Andes
Good points Not too many tourists Writer's opinion 10/10 Discovering Dulce de Leche ! Easy place to hitchike Situated in the middle of the city, Bad points basically, it's definitely a nice place to chill. If the wind gives you a break it's Empty hostel, low season even much better ! Very cold winter, snowy (June) Tips & Tricks Do go around by yourself in the Practical forest : the viewpoint over the city is amazing Puma Youth Hostel If you go in low season it's 1 definitely better to speak decent Price 10 € Spanish (obvious) Address
12 Step 1/41: San Martin de los Andes
...... Fosbery 535 ...... san martin de los andes ...... My opinion 6/10 ...... Niceplacetostaybuthardifyoudon't ...... speak english. No one around during ...... low season though (June). Nice ...... common area ! ...... Tourist Office ...... 2 ...... Address ...... cnr San Martin & Rosas ...... San Martin de Los Andes ...... My opinion 7/10 ...... Nice staff, basic information ...... Dublin Bar 3 ...... My opinion 6/10 ...... Don'ttrytheircaipirinhas.Butthebeer ...... is good. Quiet place, perfect to have a ...... drink and chat while watching a ...... soccer game ...... Notes ......
13 Step 1/41: San Martin de los Andes Map
14 Step 2/41: Villa La Angostura
Los Arrayanes 1 National Park 2 €
I arrived by Bus/Coach It costed 7€ Writer's opinion 10/10 Travel time: 3 hours Student discount. When I reached the Bus to Bariloche, stop midway in Villa park I was alone for the 12km hike la Angostura (one way). Beautiful view from the Mirador and then at the lake. Possible to take a boat there or back. Tips & Tricks 1€ = 5pesos, more or less Practical About Villa La Angostura Definitely a touristic place you will find Hostel La Angostura there everything you need to go skiing ! It 1 is kind of charming though, with its wood and stone alpine buildings. It takes its name from the "angosta", Address which is a 91m neck of land connecting it Calle Barbagelata 157 to the Peninsula Quetrihué. 8407 Villa La Angostura Hotspots My opinion 8/10 HI Network. Comfy hostel next to the center. Easily reached walking from
15 Step 2/41: Villa La Angostura
...... the bus station ...... Notes ...... 16 Step 2/41: Villa La Angostura Map
17 Step 3/41: San Carlos de Bariloche
to do there. The main attraction is the beautiful Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi. If you are into winter sports don't miss the skiing season on the Cerro Catedral, from mid-June to October.
Despite its touristic feeling Bariloche is definitively the perfect place to hang around, relax and enjoy nature. Hotspots
I arrived by Parque Llao Llao Bus/Coach 1 It costed 5€
Travel time: 1 hours Easy scenic ride
Good points Spirit of a Swiss village Awesome chocolate ! Sight of the lake Writer's opinion Bad points 10/10 Take your picture with a St Sweet easy hike to do around Bernard dog? Bariloche. Tips & Tricks Plan to have good hiking shoes and warm clothes Cerro Campanario Don't hesitate to go in some 2 3 € chocolate shops : you can always try some ! Writer's opinion You just have to pay for the bus to go About San Carlos de Bariloche there, than it is a 1 hour hike, Amazing view waiting for you at the top !! This With a European feeling in an amazing Mirador has been classified as one of setting, San Carlos de Bariloche attracts a lot of tourists all year round. Buying chocolate or doing rafting you have a lot
18 Step 3/41: San Carlos de Bariloche
most spectacular in the world by My opinion 9/10 National Geographic. it totally worth Menu del dìa available for quite a this reputation ! cheap price. nice atmosphere, good quality. A pretty nice moment !
Notes ...... Practical ...... Pudu Hostel ...... 1 ...... Price 12.8 € ...... Address ...... Salta 459 ...... 8400 Bariloche ...... My opinion ...... In renovation when i was there. Very ...... good vibes, people working there are ...... pretty cool. Nice view on the lake ! ...... Restaurant Don Juan ...... 2 ...... Price 9 € ...... Address ...... 8400 Bariloche ......
19 Step 3/41: San Carlos de Bariloche Map
20 Step 4/41: El Bolson
Its population made it a "non-nuclear zone" and "ecological municipality". You'll find a lot of wwoofing around the village, a lot of eco-farms are appearing there. Its local fiera artesanal is well representative of the spirit of the place. You'll find everything there, from pies to love philters. If you're more into hiking, it is the right place for you as well ! The mountains around offer a great variety of trekking, from one to multiple days. I arrived by Bus/Coach To sum it up: Una Bella Vida ! It costed 7€ Hotspots
Travel time: 3 hours Lago Puelo 1 Ticket booked with Via bariloche 2 €
Good points Hippie village, very relax ! Random metal street festival Only old fashion cars around Bad points Too much snow to enjoy the trekking Hard to go around without decent spanish Writer's opinion 10/10 Tips & Tricks Take a bus there and enjoy the walk ! Try the local alcool : the Fernet... the sight on the lake is, once again, They are mad about it here quite amazing. To find your bus timetable : plataforma10.com
About El Bolson This is definitively a must-see destination. Surrounded by mountains this hippy village has everything you can look for.
21 Step 4/41: El Bolson
Lago Puelo Refugio Patagónico 2 2 € 2 Price 18.47 € Address
Islas Malvinas s/n 8400 El Bolson My opinion 10/10 Really nice place to stay and relax, just a couple of minutes away from the mainplaza.Thecommonareaandthe kitchen are quite big and warm. Writer's opinion 10/10
Take a bus there and enjoy the walk ! Feria artesanale the sight on the lake is, once again, 3 quite amazing. My opinion 10/10 Awesomeempañadasandnicecakes! Practical Different specialties available as well for a very decent price. Tourist Office 1 Apunto 4 Address
Next to Plaza Pagano Address El Bolson Sarmiento 2434 My opinion 10/10 8400 El Bolson Very useful information, helpful staff. My opinion 8/10 We went there only for a tea. Nice place to chill and grab something to eat !
Notes ......
22 Step 4/41: El Bolson Map
23 Step 5/41: Buenos Aires
About Buenos Aires The Argentinian capital is one of South America's most electrifying city. My feeling is you love it or you hate it, but it wont let you indifferent. There is a European feeling there especially in the architecture, but also a busy nightlife and charming neighborhoods. Its residents, the porteños, can be hard to approach at first but once you come to know them they will be amazing. I arrived by Bus/Coach To go around the city is pretty easy as It costed 124€ well. Metro is convenient and buses are working 24 hours. Most of the historic sites are Downtown and all the other Travel time: 22 hours neighborhood are easily accessible with Company Via bariloche. Very common transportation. comfortable, they even give you food every few hours. Movies and toilets in Love it or hate it, in any case you wont be the bus. Blankets available. A bit too the first nor the last ! warm though. Hotspots
Good points Barrio di Palermo Dulce de leche ! 1 El Maté. You'll try it on your way ! 20/06. Dià de la Bandera Bad points Crazy on the road ! Prices quite high Always have change for buses Tips & Tricks Timetables of buses from Retiro Terminal : omnilinea.com.ar Don't hesitate to use the subway ! Safe, modern and convenient. Guia-T for buses
24 Step 5/41: Buenos Aires
Cultural Center, Writer's opinion 10/10 3 Ricoleta Nice place to walk around. If you're looking for young designers clothing, that's the place ! On the main square and around you just need to take a small walk to meet a lot of them. Every styles are represented ! Also the greenest area of the city. On the week ends you will meet a lot of porteños enjoying the large parks of the area !
Barrio de Recoleta 2 Writer's opinion 8/10
To have an overview of current artistic movements in Buenos Aires. Do not miss it ! Its temporary exhibitions are usually amazing or at least interisting.
Barrio de San Telmo 4
Writer's opinion 8/10
Upper class neighborhood, you get there with the bus (#17). Nice to walk around, specific architecture and population.
Writer's opinion 10/10
25 Step 5/41: Buenos Aires
Arty people and students are here afternoon that's the place ! you're mixed with tourists. It is also the birth likely to meet a lot of Porteños there, place of tango in Buenos Aires. If you especially during the week-end. The hang around you'll have the chance to nearby Jardìn Japonese is pretty cool spot some of the best graphs of the as well. city as well!
Jardín Zoológico, 5 Palermo 9 €
Flee Market, San 7 Telmo
Writer's opinion 7/10
Human size zoo with an architecture quite original. Every animals' shelters have its own characteristics !
Jardín Botànico 6 Carlos Thays Writer's opinion 10/10
Writer's opinion 10/10 You´ll find anything and everything there ! From jewelries to antiques you If you want to relax on a sunny just have to find the right street !
26 Step 5/41: Buenos Aires
Hostel Suites Florida Beware of pickpockets as Porteños 1 and tourists are crowding the area Price 14.93 € every Sundays. Address
Florida 328 Delta del Paraná Buenos Aires 8 My opinion 8/10 A lot of people, makes it easy to meet other travelers. Situated in the central area. Nice during the day, very busy especially during the week ends. Bar/restaurant downstairs.
La Giralda 2 Price 7 € Writer's opinion 8/10 Address
Go to Tigre (train from Retiro : Mitre Avenida Corrientes line. 1h journey. or Touristic train : Buenos Aires Tren de la Costa, more expensive) as a My opinion 10/10 onedayexcursion.Everything'sclosed Don'tmisstheirsubmarino!Verytasty on Monday. The rest of the time this with a churro al dulce de leche small city of Tigre is pleasant and relaxed. You can cruise on the Delta del paraná or just go to the Mercado de Frutos, really colorful ! El Antaneo 3 (bookstore)
Practical Address
1860 Santa Fe Buenos Aires
27 Step 5/41: Buenos Aires
Fabrica del Taco My opinion 10/10 6 One of the most beautiful bookstore in the world. Possible to have a coffee and eat quickly there. It is in a former Address theatre, really amazing. Large choice of books in English as well, Gorriti 5062 Buenos Aires My opinion 10/10 Laundry service Cocina mexicana & bar. Good food 4 and nice cocktails. Perfect place to Price 7 € chill at a reasonable price. Address
577 Esmeralda Bomba del Tiempo Buenos Aires 7 Price 10 € My opinion 10/10 closed to the hostel, quite cheap Address
Konex, Sarmiento 3156 Buenos Aires Montaña Ranch 5 My opinion 10/10 Price 40 € Every monday, 7pm. Basically a drum Address session, improvisation show with a different guest every week. Really esq. Ortiz & Guido, Recoleta impressive, totally worth it ! Buenos Aires My opinion 10/10 Upscalerestaurantbutdefinitivelythe Maluco best Bife de Chorizo I had. Price for a 8 full menu, including wine. Typical gaucho atmosphere. Address
Sarmiento 1728 Buenos Aires My opinion 8/10
28 Step 5/41: Buenos Aires
Freddo (Ice Cream) Brazilian nightclub, Zouk classes at 11 9pm every Sunday.
Address
La Guapachoza Everywhere 9 Buenos Aires My opinion 10/10 Address Try their different mix of dulce de Jean Jaures 715 leche. Great quantity for reasonable Buenos Aires prices, you gonna adopt it quickly ! My opinion 10/10 Teatro-Bar. Comic shows going on Persicco regularly, check the program. Perfect 12 place to eat after la Bomba del Tiempo ! Address
Migueletes 868 Club Severino 10 Buenos Aires My opinion 10/10 Some of the best ice cream ever ! Address Don't miss these home-made flavors 851 Hipolito Yrigoyen St. that will make sweet lovers the Buenos Aires happiest people ever ! My opinion 8/10 Commercial music. You'll find here as San Telmo Shokudo manytouristsasportños.Funplaceto 13 end the night ! Its plus : open on Monday night Address
Defensa 910 San Telmo, Buenos Aires My opinion 10/10
29 Step 5/41: Buenos Aires
...... Sushishaveneverbeencheapbutyou ...... will have quality and quantity here. If ...... you're a sushi lover don't miss the ...... place ! ...... Museum 14 ...... Address ...... Perù 355 ...... Buenos Aires ...... My opinion 7/10 ...... Brazilian night when I was there...... Funny crazy nights, with Brazilian ...... dancers and musicians...... Chan Chan ...... 15 ...... Price 10 € ...... Address ...... esq. Hypolyto & Iriguozen ...... Buenos Aires ...... My opinion 10/10 ...... Peruvian food. A bit kitsch this place ...... haseverythingyouneed!Fromcheap ...... but tasty food to nice cocktails. A ...... must in the area ! ...... Notes ......
30 Step 5/41: Buenos Aires Map
31 Step 6/41: Las Lenas
About Las Lenas Open from approximately July to October Las Leñas is the country's most prestigious ski resort. Ski tickets are quite expensive, more or less the same as in Europe, and will change depending on the season. Hotspots
Skiing I arrived by 1 50 € Bus/Coach It costed 100€
Travel time: 17 hours Company : Nueva Chevallier. Take a bus to San Rafael and catch one for Las Leñas
Good points So much snow ! Writer's opinion 8/10 Nobody on the slopes Good tourist office Disappointed as much of the place was closed but still worth coming Bad points there ! Amazing sights on the Andes, Prices of lodging and tickets perfect snow... A real pleasure ! Half of the slopes closed for security Very small resort, not much to do Practical Tips & Tricks Book your lodging in advance ! Apertur Even out of season it can be 1 tricky to get a bed Price 50 € Go to a supermarket before as Address everything is expensive here. European prices
32 Step 6/41: Las Lenas
...... Las leñas ...... My opinion 9/10 ...... Price for 2 people in a 4 people ...... appartment. We were lucky as it was ...... the only thing available on the resort...... Notes ...... 33 Step 6/41: Las Lenas Map
34 Step 7/41: Mendoza
Parque San Martin 1
I arrived by Bus/Coach It costed 18€ Writer's opinion 9/10
The lake and the Cerro de La Gloria Travel time: 7 hours worth the walk up there. Ideal to relax Good points on a sunny afternoon or a lazy day. The asado, local barbecue : a tradition! Practical Tips & Tricks Don't forget to tip the guy who Backpacker Mendoza will put your luggage in the bus, 1 or put it out Price 10 € Night market Plaza Independencia Address Mendoza About Mendoza My opinion 8/10 Surrounded by the wineries Mendoza is Part of the HI network. Clean, well the perfect spot to visit the surroundings situated, with a bar upstairs and and test some of the best wines in the occasional asados. world. Most of the people stopping there end up staying longer than expected... The city is pretty nice to walk around as Notes well, with large avenues and great squares...... Hotspots ......
35 Step 7/41: Mendoza Map
36 Step 8/41: San Miguel de Tucuman
international tourists there you can be sure that the city is improving its infrastructures ! Historically Tucuman is the city where was hosted the congress that declared Argentinian Independence in 1816. The celebrations, on the 9 of July, are therefore very important there and a lot of Colombians come especially at this occasion. If you are around the city at this date it is best to book your hostel early. I arrived by Bus/Coach Hotspots It costed 80€ Dique El Cadillal 1 Travel time: 14 hours Good points 09.07. Independance Day. Music all over! Easy to find your way in the city Market near the terminal Bad points Local times : closed from 1.30 till 5pm Hard to get a hostel on Independance Day Writer's opinion 7/10 Tips & Tricks Take a bus to El Cadillal/ Rio Loro. Tucumàn is a great base to Once there you can get touristic explore the surroundings : let information in the museum. Possible you bag at the hostel! to walk a couple of hours on the road 09.07. Independance Day. Meet or to take a chairlift to the top of the the Argentinian president in cerro. Tucumàn !
About San Miguel de Tucuman Tucuman is a large city but you wont feel it. It is pretty easy to go around, walking or by bus. If there are not too many
37 Step 8/41: San Miguel de Tucuman
Cerro San Javier 2
Practical Writer's opinion 6/10 Backpackers Could easily be a 2 days excursion 1 from Tucumàn. Different hikes await Tucuman for you there. 28m high, El Cristo attracts mainly local tourists. Situated Price 12.09 € 1km from the Hostel San Javier La Universidad de Tucumàn is a nice hike Address to do. Abandonned under the military government it is situated close to the Laprida 456 Bosque de la Memoria San Miguel de Tucuman My opinion 9/10 Helpful staff, nice patio to hang San Pedro de Colalao 3 around. Offer cheap meals at night regularly. Even asados some time ! Writer's opinion 9/10
2 hours bus from Tucumàn. This small El Portal village hosts some of the best people I 2 met ! It is also possible just to walk around and have a glimpse of the Address Argentinian countryside. Avenida 24 de Septiembre San Miguel de Tucumàn
38 Step 8/41: San Miguel de Tucuman
Oh! Hostel My opinion 9/10 5 Perfect place if you want to try the Price 18 € local specialties, from empañadas to humitas Address Santa Fé 930 4000 Tucuman Villecco 3 My opinion 9/10 Nice place, a bit far from the center. Swimming pool opened in summer. Address
Avenida Aconquija, 1341 Yerba Buena Cafayate (bakery) 6 My opinion 7/10 Perfectplacetograbasandwichwhile waiting for the bus Address XXV de Mayo, 100-200 4000 Tucuman Hostel San Javier 4 My opinion 10/10 Price 15 € Some of the best bread and best pastries I had in South America ! Address
Calle 8 Cerro San Javier Notes My opinion 10/10 ...... Opened a year ago this hostel is the ...... perfect place to relax. Barbara & ...... Sergio are offering you a place where ...... you can feel at home ! If you want tips ...... to do paragliding, Sergio is your man ! ......
39 Step 8/41: San Miguel de Tucuman Map
40 Step 9/41: Tafi del Valle
Hotspots
Cerro de la Cruce 1
I arrived by Bus/Coach It costed 9€
Writer's opinion 8/10 Travel time: 2 hours Hike of a couple of hours, easy to go. Company Aconquija. The road is You will have a nice view over the lake beautiful and the village from there. It is a pleasant mirador ! Good points Good goat cheese ! People here very helpful Los Menhires Home made chocolate 2 Bad points Expensive place Tips & Tricks Do not trust the tourist office about the time needed for a hike
About Tafi del Valle Tafi del Valle is the place where folks from Tucuman come for the week ends in summer. Surrounding by amazing Writer's opinion 5/10 valleys it is a charming village, where everybody is relaxed. Definitively worth to hikes around, with view over the lake.
41 Step 9/41: Tafi del Valle
Hostel Nomades Take a bus there (5pesos AR). The 1 Parque de Los Menhires in itself has Price 15 € nothing really special. The Menhires, huge rocks, are where the Address government decided they should be. Las Palenques not where they used to be. That's not Tafi del Valle helpful to know what they were supposed to be, to do. My opinion 10/10 HI network. Includes Breakfast and Dinner included, home made. A bit La Cascada out of everything it is a very quiet 3 place. You quickly have the impression that you're alone there. Perfect place to relax !
Notes ...... Writer's opinion 9/10 ...... 2 hours hike instead of 6 hours as the ...... tourist office told me. Very nice ...... waterfall, half water half ice in the ...... winter ...... Practical ......
42 Step 9/41: Tafi del Valle Map
43 Step 10/41: Cafayate
About Cafayate Cafayate is a small village situated in the middle of incredible natural landscapes and of some of the country's best vinyards. You have the road of wine there with different bodegas to visit. Hotspots
Quebrada De Las 1 I arrived by Conchas Bus/Coach 16 € It costed 13€
Travel time: 4 hours Company El Aconquija
Good points People I met at the hostel Possible to volunteer at the hostel Writer's opinion 10/10 Mercado Municipal, to eat cheap Bad points We organized the excursion through Change of hostel prices if the hostel. Amazing views and a lot of nobody fun. The guide was really cool as well ! Cold and windy in July, but Even if you don't do it in a tour rent a sunny bike and go for it : it is the best thing to do around here ! Tips & Tricks Be flexible : you'll always meet someone who gonna change your plans Try all the Northern gastronomic specialties : locro, humitas, empañadas...
44 Step 10/41: Cafayate
Ruinas de los 2 Reach the trail by remis (cab) or Quilmes biking. 3 €
Writer's opinion 9/10 Practical Take a bus there and walk (or hitchike) the last 5km. The guide is included in Backpacker Hostel the price and is very useful as there is 1 Price 9 € literally no indications on what the ruins are. After the visit and the Address explanations you can walk up to a mirador to have an amazing view of Cordoba 155 the place. Try to go early to avoid the Cafayate numerous touristic buses. My opinion 9/10 Verycoolgardenwithhammocksand a barbecue. Most of the dorms have a Río Colorado private bathroom. Rent bikes and 3 organize excursions.
Writer's opinion 10/10 Goat cheese tasting The trail of the 7 waterfalls. Nice hike. 2 They'll tell you that you can't do it Price 7 € without a guide (35pesos), which is not really true especially if you have Address some previous hiking experience. Cordoba, at the end of the road Cafayate
45 Step 10/41: Cafayate
My opinion 10/10 Possible to taste the different goat Notes cheese and their home made bread for 10 pesos, which include as well a ...... visit of the Estancia and an ...... explanation of how they make cheese...... La Estancia ...... 3 ...... Price 8 € ...... Address ...... Plaza Principale ...... Cafayate ...... My opinion 8/10 ...... Local dishes eaten on the outside ...... patio...... La Casa de las ...... 4 ...... Empanadas ...... Price 2 € ...... Address ...... Mitre 24 ...... Cafayate ...... My opinion 10/10 ...... Some of the best empanadas you'll ...... have the chance to try. In Argentina ...... they cook them in the oven instead of ...... in the oil, which is much healthier and ...... tastier, as far as I'm concerned ......
46 Step 10/41: Cafayate Map
47 Step 11/41: Salta
best you'll find in the area. You have to try its food specialties as it is a mix of everything you can find in the Northern half of Argentina. Hotspots
Bosque de San 1 Lorenzo
I arrived by Bus/Coach It costed 12€
Travel time: 4 hours Company El Indio. Road really nice, you pass through the Quebrada de Cafayate. Writer's opinion 9/10 Good points Possible to horseride in the jungle The colorful market there. Everything you need - snacks, Atmosphere at night drinks - is available there. Wine tasting Tips & Tricks If you arrive by bus talk to the Museo de hostels' guys there : they pay for 2 the cab ! Arqueologia d'Alta Try to be in the area for the Day Montaña de la Pachamama : 01 of August 8 € Writer's opinion 10/10 About Salta Salta is the main meeting point for most One of the best museum I did on my of the backpackers who want to explore trip. They found a few Incas the Northern part of Argentina. The city is busy but not too much, crowded but just enough, and its night life is one of the
48 Step 11/41: Salta
Quebrada de mummies at 1700m high which are 4 exposed there. Really interesting to Humahuaca see how they manage to lead archeological expeditions up there !
Writer's opinion 8/10
Possible to do as an excursion or by Parque San Martin 3 yourself, by bus or renting a car. Cool small villages to visit, very touristic. Tilcara, Humahuaca, San Salvador de Jujuy are some of the places you'll want to visit. Including the Cerro de los siete Colores.
Cerro San Bernardo 5
Writer's opinion 4/10
Just a regular park, not much there
49 Step 11/41: Salta
Writer's opinion 8/10
You can take the teleférico in parque Hostel De La Linda San Martin up or down there for 15 3 Price 10 € pesos. You'll find an outside gym up there, with sometimes some free Address classes (aero-boxing...). Possible to go down with mountain bikes as well. Alberdi 695 4400 Salta My opinion 9/10 Practical I had a lot of fun in this hostel ! People working there are really helpful, the Backpacker's Suites owner even called the pharmacy for 1 me when I was stuck in my bed. Nice Price 12.09 € atmosphere in the common area. Address
1045 Urquiza St, Salta, Salta, Argentina XXJ 4400 Salta 4 My opinion 9/10 Super classy hostel ! Some of the Address nicest dorm ever. Balcarce 915 4400 Salta Patio de Las My opinion 8/10 2 Empanadas Cool place to finish the night dancing and sharing a last drink.
Address Notes Salta ...... My opinion 8/10 ...... Different restaurants there, selling ...... only specialties and especially good ...... empanadas. Possible to order to go......
50 Step 11/41: Salta Map
51 Step 12/41: Tilcara
Pumahuarca 1
I arrived by Bus/Coach It costed 12€ Writer's opinion 9/10
Go there easily by bus. Another part of Travel time: 2 hours the Quebrada de Humahuaca. Good points The incredible surroundings Local market and handcraft Practical Bad points La Andaluz Touristic prices 1 Price 6 € About Tilcara Address Tilcara is the best spot to put your Tilcara backpack and explore the surrounding Quebrada de Humahuaca. Probably the My opinion 4/10 most comfortable and one of the far from the best place to stay. Noisy, prettiest place aound. It has a reputation bathroomnotreallyclean...Onenight of being an artists colony, which attracts was enough for me ! a lot of people. If you're looking for trekking you are in the right place ! With a tour operator or by yourself it is the main activity around here. Hotspots
52 Step 12/41: Tilcara
...... La Chacana ...... 2 ...... Address ...... Belgrano 472 ...... Tilcara ...... My opinion 10/10 ...... Reallygoodbreakfast,withanoutside ...... patio if the weather is not too cold...... They have the wifi as well and let you ...... stay around as long as you want...... La Peña de Carlitos ...... 3 ...... Address ...... Tilcara ...... My opinion 8/10 ...... A lot of fun especially if you want to ...... try the folkloric dances. They serve ...... only beer or Fernet ...... Notes ......
53 Step 12/41: Tilcara Map
54 Step 13/41: Resistencia
busy city in which i didn't feel like staying more than a night... Hotspots
Parque Nacional del 1 Chaco
I arrived by Bus/Coach It costed 75€
Travel time: 10 hours Company Flecha Bus. Arrival time : 4am. Not the best ! Writer's opinion 9/10
Take a bus to Capitan Solaris and from Good points there you can walk or catch a cab to Helpful people in the street the park. Possibility to camp in the Bad points park. Different hikes to do, pretty nice Bus timetable area and a lot of wildlife. You'll No cheap hostel probablyspotmonkeysspyingonyou! Terminal far from center : If you're tired ask at the entrance of expensive cab the park and you might be able to come back to the bus with the Tips & Tricks parks'workers. Better to leave your luggages in Resistencia terminal when you go in the park Practical
About Resistencia Over 500 sculptures in the street of the city. If your a sculpture lover you might find Resistencia far more interesting than the others. It might depend how you end up there but for me it was only a very
55 Step 13/41: Resistencia
...... Hotel Alfil ...... 1 ...... Price 24 € ...... Address ...... Santa Maria de Oro 495 ...... Resistencia ...... My opinion 4/10 ...... One of the only opened place when I ...... arrived, late, at Resistencia. It is ...... supposed to be one of the cheapest ...... place around... No breakfast, nasty ...... room. Try to go anywhere else if you ...... can ! ...... Notes ...... 56 Step 13/41: Resistencia Map
57 Step 14/41: Mercedes
were no rooms there for under 200pesos (40€). If you have a tent though it worth the price you will put in the excursion ! Plenty of wildlife in this quite unknown and remote area. Practical
Hotel los Sobrinos 1 Price 20 € Address I arrived by Bus/Coach Belgrano It costed 11€ Mercedes My opinion 10/10 Travel time: 4 hours The same price as every other hotel I walked in, with a nice kitchen. Price Take a bus to Corrientes (local bus9 for a "private" dorm. The only hostel, and from there to mercedes : cheaper, of the village was closed Company Nuevo Expreso when I was there.
Good points Notes very relax place, not much traffic No tourist at all, only locals ...... Bad points ...... Tourist office closed from 12 to ...... 3pm ...... Tips & Tricks ...... Possible to let your luggages in ...... the taxi office at the terminal ...... About Mercedes ...... Not much is happening in this small ...... village of Northeast Argentina. It is mainly ...... the departure point for the Reserva ...... Provincial Esteros del Ibera. I finally didn't ...... go up there as I learned that the only ...... hostel closed a while ago and that there ......
58 Step 14/41: Mercedes Map
59 Step 15/41: Corrientes
Costanera 1
I arrived by Bus/Coach It costed 12€ Writer's opinion 8/10
Nice walk along the water, a good way Travel time: 4 hours to enjoy a sunny afternoon in Good points Corrientes while waiting for your bus Charming city despites its size
Bad points Notes Only "monedas" accepted in the bus ...... Hard to get change ...... Tips & Tricks ...... Tourist office (avenida XXV de ...... Mayo) really helpful ! ...... About Corrientes ...... Really not much to do in this city quite ...... expensive for backpackers. It is a nice ...... spot if you only have a day or half a day ...... to wait in transit. Apart from that no real ...... reasons to stop there...... Hotspots ......
60 Step 15/41: Corrientes Map
61 Step 16/41: Puerto Iguazu
About Puerto Iguazu This small relaxed village is full of tourists but doesn't really show it. You will meet there a bunch of people doing just a one or two days excursion, coming from far, just for the amazing main attraction of the place : the Iguazu falls. Hotspots
Cataratas del Iguazú, I arrived by 1 Bus/Coach Brazil It costed 43€ 27 €
Travel time: 9 hours Semi cama with the company Rio Uruguay
Good points Easy bus system Finally back in a warm weather ! Contagious happiness feeling Writer's opinion 8/10 here ! Bad points Bus with Crucero del norte : 10€ Helicopters flying on the roundtrip (leaves at 8.10am, 10.20am Brazilian side and later). You will only need a couple Couatis tend to steal your lunch... of hours to visit this part of the park, not even half the size of the Tips & Tricks Argentinian part, Amazing view of the If you can try to start by the waterfalls, seen from far. You will have Brazilian side an overview of the all Garganta del Go early, to any side of the Diablo from there. border, to avoid the main crowd of tour buses
62 Step 16/41: Puerto Iguazu
Possible to pay in Argentinian pesos From the bus terminal bus "Cataratas" there, no need of visa. is leaving every 20minutes for the hostel. Very nice staff, clean hostel andanamazingswimmingpool.They Hito de Tres also have a bar with cheap prices for 2 drinks and food Fronteras
Notes ...... Writer's opinion 9/10 ...... the perfect spot for the sunset. From ...... there you'll have a view, at the same ...... time, of Paraguay and Brazil. From ...... Argentina. Easy to go by bus...... Practical ...... Hostel Inn Iguazu ...... 1 ...... Price 14.22 € ...... Address ...... Ruta 12 KM 5 ...... 3370 Puerto Iguazu ...... My opinion 10/10 ......
63 Step 16/41: Puerto Iguazu Map
64 Step 17/41: Cataratas del Iguazu
About Cataratas del Iguazu An international must seen as anybody who've been there will tell you. The Guarani legend says that a jealous forest god made the land collapse in front of the canoë of a warrior, who was leaving with his lover. She fell down in the water and turned into a rock while the warrior supposedly turned into a tree on the top of the Garganta del Diablo, watching his lover forever. I arrived by Bus/Coach One thing is sure there : you will never be It costed 5€ alone enjoying the show. Argentinians, backpackers, families, tours... Everybody is coming around to enjoy the park. You Travel time: 1 hours will see everybody smiling and giggling Catch the bus just in front of the there, supposedly because of the hostel ! negative ions generated by the waterfall. Believe it or not, people are anyway generally happy to come visiting this part Good points of the world. I wont blame them for that ! Everything around ! Hotspots Free bus and train to go around Meeting people to share with Aventura Nautica Bad points 1 Queue even to take pics in good spots Part of the park closed Entrance : 130pesos (25€) Tips & Tricks Pasaporte Verde : 200pesos for the Aventura Nautica and the Paseo Ecologico Take your lunch and a poncho. you can buy it there but it's not cheap
65 Step 17/41: Cataratas del Iguazu
...... Writer's opinion 10/10 ...... Take a boat and go splash under some ...... of the waterfalls. You will be amazed ...... by the strength of it ! Don't forget to ...... take a poncho or buy one there, ...... except if you have changing clothes ! ...... Booked with Jungle Adventure ...... Paseo Ecologico 2 ...... Writer's opinion ...... A relaxed way to go back to the ...... entrance from the Garganta del ...... Diablo, avoiding the train you took to ...... come there. You might have the ...... chance to spot some crocodiles on ...... the way and the guide will explain you ...... more about the place Booked with ...... Jungle Adventure ...... Notes ......
66 Step 17/41: Cataratas del Iguazu Map
67 Brazil
52 days & 8 stops Months: August September
68 Step 18/41: Curitiba
historical buildings and not too much traffic it makes it pleasant to walk around. The city's leaders are doing a lot to educate the population in an eco-friendly objective so that everybody feel concern with the preservation of environment. Beyond that you will see most of the touristic spots in a few days, not many more reason to stay around especially with some amazing places around, like the Ilhia do Mel or the Pantanal.
I arrived by Hotspots Bus/Coach It costed 41€ Linhea Turistica 1 9 €
Travel time: 11 hours Bus from Foz de Iguazu to Curitiba. Plan 1 or 2 hours more to pass the border and reach the terminal. Bus almost cold
Good points The importance given to ecology Open minded people Walking through the city Writer's opinion 8/10
Bad points For 27Reals you can stop up to 4 times Feeling of insecurity when with this touristic bus. Nice to see for people talk instance the Museum Oscar Niemeyer Tips & Tricks (picture below), the Opera de Arame, the Mercado, Memorial Ucraniano, 1€ for 3 reals Parque Barigui; jardim Botanico. All of Spanish is not enough here... them worth the stop, especially the Better to plan learning latter. portuguese
About Curitiba Parana's capital is known as a urban success. Eco friendly, with a lot of parks,
69 Step 18/41: Curitiba
...... Practical ...... Roma Hostel ...... 1 ...... Price 3 € ...... Address ...... Barão do Rio Blanco 805 ...... Curitiba ...... My opinion 9/10 ...... Nice hostel with dorms and private ...... bathrooms. The kitchen is always ...... clean and the breakfast huge ! ...... Notes ......
70 Step 18/41: Curitiba Map
71 Step 19/41: Rio de Janeiro
Ipanema)
About Rio de Janeiro Rio de Janeiro, known as the Cidade Meravilhiosa (marvelous city), is a multiple sides city. Full of surprises Rio is surrounded by white sand beaches, mountains, luxuriant rainforest in front of the deep blue sea, which makes it a cinematic destination. There is a wide gap between rich and I arrived by poor. On the one side, the part of the city Bus/Coach you are most likely to know, you'll meet It costed 50€ one of the sexiest population in the world, chilling on white sand beaches or in the streets of Ipanema, Lebanon and Travel time: 12 hours Copacabana. On the other side Rio has its reputation of violence, mainly due to Company : Penha. the on-going war between the police and Comfy bus. Pauses for food, most of the drug traffickers in the favelas, and the the time at a buffet al kilo population of these areas.
Good points Despite the dark side of the city the Cariocas, inhabitants of Rio, would not Friday nights in Lapa change their city. They developed an art Caïpirinhas and agua de coco of living that as a gringo you can not Street food: corn, tapioca, ice match. They even issued a book about cream... it,"How to become a Carioca", which Bad points teach you a lot about their way of doing ! Visible difference between Hotspots population Feeling that you can't go around safely Hard to book a flight without a local ID Tips & Tricks Try their Buffet Al Kilo in which you can eat almost every and any thing Pastel and sugarcane juice to try on the food market (Tuesday in
72 Step 19/41: Rio de Janeiro
Praia de Ipanema 1 part of the city you wouldn't know without it. Very interesting culturally, and helps financing the rehabilitation of the place, according to the guide
Writer's opinion 9/10
Perfect place to relax and discover the Brazilian fashion : only take a sarong to the beach, no towel, and wear a Monumento ao 3 mini bikini if you're a girl, and a Cristo Redentor Speedo short if you're a man. Expect to make part of your shopping there as well : bikinis, sarongs, jewels, food... there is always someone selling it there
Favela tour 2 22 € Writer's opinion 9/10
Booked at the hostel with "Don't be a Writer's opinion Gringo, be a local". This tour are part 9/10 of the government project of You can go up there by bus and then rehabilitation of the favelas, for the withafunicular.Worldwideattraction, next Soccer world cup and of the worth the trip up there. Nice view of Olympic Games. It is the chance to the city. actually have a glimpse of Rio, of a
73 Step 19/41: Rio de Janeiro
Part of a "one-day tour" of Rio, can even try an outfit of your choice booked at the hostel for 5 Reals.
Pão de Açúcar 4
Escadaria de Selarón 6
Writer's opinion 10/10
Amazing view of the city ! You can easily take a cable car to reach the summit. A tourist classic but it would be a shame to miss it Part of a "one-day tour" of Rio, booked at the hostel
Sambódromo Writer's opinion 10/10 5 You can reach it in metro (Gloria Writer's opinion 10/10 station), in Santa Teresa area. A Chilean artist decided, in 1990, to It is the place where most of the cover the 215 steps from Santa Teresa Samba defiles takes place during to Lapa with over 2000 tiles. Since this Carnaval. You can go there and visit date he is always changing the tiles, the small shop where they have a lot depending on what people send to of articles linked to the Carnaval. you
74 Step 19/41: Rio de Janeiro
Grill Inn him. It is a work made to be in 3 perpetual movement. If you go there during the day you'll meet the artist himself on the stairs. Address
Rio de Janeiro (Copacabana) Practical My opinion 10/10 One of the numerous Buffet Al Kilo in Rio Backpackers Copacabana. One of the best I tried. 1 Price 23.28 € Address Aipo Aipi 4 Travessa Santa Leocadia St. 38, End of Price 13 € Barao de ipanema, st., Copacabana 22061050 Rio de Janeiro Address (Copacabana) Avenida Copacabana My opinion 10/10 Rio de Janeiro Nice hostel and decent breakfast. My opinion 10/10 Some of the dorms even have a Not the cheapest from far (price for private balcony with hammocks 1kg) but really good as well, with a lot of choice
Panda 2 Haré Burger Price 8 € 5 Address Price 3 €
Rua Barata Ribairo Address 22061050 Rio de Janeiro 67 Rua Francisco Otaviano (in the (Copacabana) gallery) My opinion 10/10 Rio de Janeiro (Ipanema) The author hasn't written a My opinion 9/10 description yet. Their veggie burger and cold mate
75 Step 19/41: Rio de Janeiro
...... make a good and healthy lunch for a ...... reasonable price ...... Barthodomeu 6 ...... Address ...... Rua Maria Quitéria, 46 ...... Rio de Janeiro (Ipanema) ...... My opinion 9/10 ...... Their cocktails are really good, so are ...... their snacks. Possible to eat properly ...... there as well...... Notes ......
76 Step 19/41: Rio de Janeiro Map
77 Step 20/41: Parati
If you're in the area around mid-august check the dates of the festival da Pinga, 4 days to try freely all different kind of cachacas made by the local alembics. 24 hours a day the booths are open and serve cachaca, while music bands relay on the main scene. Book your hostel ahead as Brazilian all come for this event ! You're unlikely to meet a lot of Gringos there.
I arrived by Notes Bus/Coach ...... It costed 20€ ...... Travel time: 4 hours ...... Good points ...... Small fishing village on the beach ...... Old fashion streets and buildings ...... Bad points ...... All hostels booked for the festival ...... Tips & Tricks ...... 17-20/08. Festival da Pinha ...... (cachaca). Free tasting of ...... cachacas, gigs, party...... About Parati ...... Paraty, crowded in some period but quiet ...... most of the year, is one of the gem of Rio ...... de Janeiro state. This colonial village is ...... both charming and picturesque, and give ...... you the chance to explore some of the ...... best beaches in Brazil...... The village of Paraty is second only (after ...... Minas gerais) in cachaca's fame if you're ...... an amateur. Cachaca is the local liquor (a ...... high-proof sugarcane spirit) mostly used ...... in the Caipirinhas......
78 Step 20/41: Parati Map
79 Step 21/41: Recife
Recife Antiguo 1
I arrived by Plane It costed 133€ Writer's opinion 8/10
Travel time: 3 hours A walk in the historic part of the city Price directly at the airport with give you a glimpse of the atmosphere, Avianca of the character of the city
Good points Parque de Escultura Specific tags throughout the city 2 Debussy Festival in August Brennaud Quite animated at night 3 € Bad points Not a particularly beautiful city
About Recife Recife is mostly known for its dance and music heritage. Its Carnaval is quite famous as well, being the third most important in Brazil ( after Rio and Saõ Paulo). Hotspots Writer's opinion 7/10
80 Step 21/41: Recife
...... The Officina Brennaud being closed ...... on week-ends it is a nice alternative...... You can go there with a small boat, ...... the entrance is free ...... Practical ...... Lampion ...... 1 ...... Address ...... Mercado Municipal ...... Recife ...... My opinion 9/10 ...... Nice and cheap place to eat ...... specialties surrounded by locals...... Situated in Espinheiro neighbourhood...... Notes ......
81 Step 21/41: Recife Map
82 Step 22/41: Jericoacoara
wind sports' spots, interesting nightlife, varied cuisines and other activities. If you're there on a Wednesday or a Saturday night don't miss the Forro nights : easy to dance the locals will gladly show you how. The relax atmosphere might make you stay longer than expected...
Be aware that there are no banks there. The nearest ATM is in Jijoca.
I arrived by Hotspots Bus/Coach It costed 67€ Taste caïpirinha in 1 the street Travel time: 15 hours 1 € Stop at Fortaleza to change bus
Good points Good vibes all around Some of the best caïpirinhas I had Forro nights ! Bad points The machismo of our guide Writer's opinion Price of kite surf classes 10/10 Tips & Tricks A full "street" with caipirinhas cabañas Don't miss the caipoera circles on both side, heading to the beach on the beach, after sunset and a large bonfire. If you're curious walk around the few streets of about trying different kind of this local the city to meet fellow travelers cocktail, this is your place ! easily
About Jericoacoara Jericoacoara is a special place. Based in a remoted area accessible with jeep only, you will find there a combination of good
83 Step 22/41: Jericoacoara
Buggy Tour Writer's opinion 10/10 2 10 € Walk up there, grab a caïpirinha or a beer directly at the top, watch the sunset, and run down the dune. Perfect moment !
Practical
Jericoacoara Hostel 1 Price 11 € Writer's opinion 8/10 Address We met the guy in the street, booked the tour and he appeared no to be R. São Francisco, 202 really cool, especially with girls. 62598000 Jericoacoara Except for that the tour definitely My opinion 10/10 worth it. You'll see beautiful lagoons, HI discount. Huge breakfast and nice relax in a hammock with your agua de dorms with private bathrooms. Cool coco and run on white sand beaches... hammocks to chill in the patio
Sunset from the sand 3 Café Brasil dune 2
Address
btwn Prinvipal & São Francisco Jericoacoara My opinion 9/10 Sweet little café, the place to have a caïpirinha on the beach with an acai (local fruit, often served as ice cream)
Notes ......
84 Step 22/41: Jericoacoara Map
85 Step 23/41: Belem
Theater, cathedral... you'll find there much more than expected. It is a compulsory gateway for everything and everyone who wants to go further in Amazonia without taking a plane. Hotspots
Estação das Docas 1
I arrived by Bus/Coach It costed 150€
Travel time: 40 hours A long journey from Jericoacoara, increased by traffic and accidents on the road. If you can go for the plane ! Writer's opinion 8/10
Good points These former warehouses have been Finally on the Rio Amazon successfully transformed. You'll now The boat trip to Santarêm find there fancy restaurants, shops, Artistic graphs all over the place ATMs, cafés, exchange office... The transformation is interesting to see ! Bad points Feeling of poverty in some areas The weather, too warm ! Mercado Ver-o-Peso Tips & Tricks 2 When around the market of Ver o Peso be even more careful with Writer's opinion 10/10 pickpockets Buses are easy to get from the Colorful, busy, full of weird things... bus terminal, no need of a cab This market is everything you could imagine. You'll find there hammocks, About Belem Belém is isolated but still has a cultural sophistication you wouldn't expect.
86 Step 23/41: Belem
...... living chicken, vegetables, rice or ...... special "potions" for approximately ...... everything. Possible to grab a quick ...... lunch or just a juice there as well for a ...... cheap price...... Practical ...... Amazônia Hotel ...... 1 ...... Price 11 € ...... Address ...... Av Gov José Malcher 592 ...... Belém ...... My opinion 7/10 ...... HI discount. Breakfast is good, the ...... hostel is clean even if the atmosphere ...... is not the best to meet people...... Outside the center but easily reached ...... by foot...... Notes ......
87 Step 23/41: Belem Map
88 Step 24/41: Alter do Chao
crowd, except during the Festa do Cairé in September. Thanks to its remote location it has been well preserved and still has a taste of paradise. White sand beaches, rainforest all around, tropical ambiance and dolphins in the Rio, Alter do Chão has everything you can wish for. If you stop there be aware that you'll probably want to extend your stay.
Next to a hippie community you deeply I arrived by Boat feel its influence in here. Almost no cars, It costed 33€ barely no tourists, but always smile and music around. That's the place where you want to lose yourself ! 3 days and a half on the boat. Company : Marcamazon. Internet is available for free on the main Don't forget to buy your hammocks square of the village. Be aware that the and some cords beforehand. You can only ATM in town scarcely work... arrive earlier as well, some even slept Hotspots for free on the boat the night before Ilha do Amor Good points 1 Some of the best vibes i met on my trip! The setting with almost nobody Dolphins all around while kayaking Tips & Tricks Don't miss their Festa do Cairé if you're there mid-September Enjoy your stay there to take your time, relax, and live at the local pace Writer's opinion 10/10
About Alter do Chao One hour South of Santarêm with a local bus this small village doesn't attract the
89 Step 24/41: Alter do Chao
Albergue da Floresta Just in front of the village you can 1 reach it swimming or by boat (3reals). Price 6 € An idyllic island where you can walk up to the mirado, rent a kayak or sip a Address beer while eating fresh fried fish Travessa Antônio Pedrosa Alter do Chão
Festa do Cairé My opinion 10/10 2 Setawayfromthecenterofthevillage this retreat is as peaceful as you can hope.Hangyourhammocktherefora few days and enjoy the forest around : a sloth might pay a visit to your dorm...
Candeeiro 2
Address Writer's opinion 10/10 Alter do Chão Held mi September la Festa do Cairé is a lively folkloric festival, with My opinion 10/10 processions and dancing. It is Restaurant Slow food and vegetarian. somehow their local Carnaval, with a Owned by a German-Colombiano dance contest : Boto tucuxi (grey couple the place is chill and serve dolphins) against Boto Cor de Rosa good food, inspired partly by Indian (pink dolphins). It is also the occasion specialties. They also have a small to party all day all around : music in book exchange the street non stop, small festival village with food and alcohol are set for the occasion Notes ...... Practical ......
90 Step 24/41: Alter do Chao Map
91 Step 25/41: Manaus
riverside. To understand where this city comes from you have to go back a few decennies, during the rubber boom. Discovering how to use the rubber present in the forest Manaus starts to exploid it as much as possible and to buil an upscale city. The Praça São Sebastião and its nobles buildings, like the Teatro Amazonias, are somehow somehow symbols of this period. When the boom suddenly stopped the city lost its I arrived by Boat perspective of wealth. It took it a few It costed 34€ years to get back on the trail.
Today Manaus is becoming more and Travel time: 48 hours more friendly. It is a major transportation Boat: Ana Karolina II hub in the Amazonia and the most When in a boat avoid the closed floor popular place to organize jungle tour on with air conditioning if you don´t the Brazilian side of the Amazonia. want to be freezing. Hotspots
Good points Teatro Amazonas 1 The boat journey The main square, very good looking Bad points Long to charge the boat (bananas, horse) Very industrial city
About Manaus Manaus, port 1500km from the sea, is located in the heart of the Amazon jungle Writer's opinion and fascinates a lot of people. The truth 8/10 is you can't expect such a huge industrial city to be there, especially when coming by boat, through desertic landscapes with only a few wood houses on the
92 Step 25/41: Manaus
The theatre dates from the 30's, when Really worth it, especially when you the rubber economy was booming. It sleep in the jungle. Sight of birds, is probably one of the finest you'll fine crocodiles and monkeys especially. across Brazil. Possible to do a guided Food is good and most of the guides tour in English speak english, which is a plus !
Encontro dos Aguas 2
Practical
Manaus Hostel Trip Writer's opinion 9/10 1 Tour Amazing to see the Rio Negro meeting the cafe-au-lait Rio Solimoes. The two Price 10.09 € flow side by side during a few kilometers before melting : Address differences of temperature, acidity, speed. If you're doing a Jungle Trip Rua Costa Azevedo 63. centro. you'll pass there. 69010230 Manaus My opinion 9/10 Nice breakfast and location, very Jungle trip closed to the main square in a safe 3 150 € area.. Wifi available as an extra daily cost. Possible to walk there from the Writer's opinion 10/10
Booked with Jungle Tour, 4 days trip.
93 Step 25/41: Manaus
harbour. My opinion 8/10 Lively place crowded with locals and tourists. Live music regularly at night. African House 2 Splash Pizza 5 Address Price 8 € Pç São Sebastião Address Manaus Pç 10 de Julho My opinion 4/10 Manaus Juice and snacks. Not a good service and better try the juice in other places My opinion 9/10 AllyoucaneateveryThursdaysnights. Theirpizzas,saltyandsweet,arereally good Skina dos Sucos 3 Price 2 € Notes Address ...... cnr Av Eduardo Ribeiro & 24 de Maio ...... Manaus ...... My opinion 10/10 ...... Theirjuicesandsnacksarereallygood ...... andquitecheap.You'llfinditoftenfull ...... with locals. That's the place to try new ...... fruits or new mix ! ...... Bar do Armando ...... 4 ...... Address ...... 10 de Julho 953 ...... Manaus ......
94 Step 25/41: Manaus Map
95 Colombia
82 days & 16 stops Months: September |...| December
96 Step 26/41: Bogota
Colonial buildings, modern museums and classic churches, you'll find all of it and more in this area, closed to each other. The perfect exemple of this diversity is the Plaza de Bolivar, which still has the Capilla del Sagrario that dates from the Spanish era. The rest of the buildings are from more recent periods (neoclassical...). Hotspots
I arrived by Plane Catedral Primada It costed 200€ 1
Travel time: 3 hours Good points La Candelaria neighborhood Atmosphere, population open minded Bad points The huge size of the city Be careful walking around at night Writer's opinion 10/10 Cold weather because of the altitude Built in 1823 it is the largest church in Tips & Tricks Bogota. The water is drinkable To go to the airport, take local bus on Calle 19 for less than 1€ Donacion Botero 2 About Bogota Writer's opinion 10/10 Bogota is the heart of Colombia. a lively and vibrant capital, a mix between the Botero is one of the most famous Andes tradition and the urban current Colombian artist. Half of the sophistication. The historic downtown, La Candelaria, hosts buildings from all different periods of the Colombian history, some being there for 300 years.
97 Step 26/41: Bogota
Museo del Oro collections is made of the artist's 4 works. 1 €
Writer's opinion 10/10 Barrio La Candelaria Apparently the most beautiful gold 3 museum in South America it deserves its reputation. Not too much information given, just what you need. Interesting and well presented.
Practical
Musicology hostel 1 Price 10 € Address Writer's opinion 8/10 Cll. 9 # 3 -15, La candelaria/Historic The most touristic place in Bogota, La Center Candelaria is also the cultural center Bogota of the cities. Student and artist My opinion population. Most of the hostels, 10/10 museums and restaurants are located Hammocksinthepatio,nicedorms,tv in this area. lounge and bar. The place makes
98 Step 26/41: Bogota
you feel like you're out of the city Carrera 7 while in the hert of La Candelaria. Bogota They also give a lot of importance to My opinion ecology. 7/10 The perfect place to buy everything and anything Tourist office 2 Crepes & Waffles 5 Address Price 9 €
Plaza Bolivar Address Bogota airport My opinion 10/10 Bogota Very competent. They will give you My opinion 9/10 any information you need, about the One of Bogota's restaurant chains. city, its surroundings, the bus system... Really good, especially if you're looking for a nice dessert.
Lavanderia 3 Notes ...... Address ...... Cr 3 & Calle 10-11 ...... Bogota ...... My opinion 9/10 ...... Much cheaper than the hostel if you ...... don't have a lot of clothing with you ...... Flee market 4 ...... Address ......
99 Step 26/41: Bogota
...... 100 Step 26/41: Bogota Map
101 Step 27/41: Cali
About Cali Except for the nightlife you wont find a lot of reasons Cali. At first sight. The city is hot and industrial, focused on business. But as soon as the night is coming, the heat of the day decrease and it is time to walk around San Antonio neighborhood. You'll find nice restaurants there and a varied nightlife. Locals are getting crazy with salsa every night, you'll always find something to do if you want to. I arrived by The women there are also nationally Bus/Coach known to be beautiful and stylish, And It costed 50€ there are ! Quite a lot probably have implants, boobs and bum, but it doesn't keep them from being among the most Travel time: 12 hours beautiful women in the country. Company Expreso Nuevo. Colombian women being known for their Comfortable but cold ! Take a blanket beauty... or sleeping bag to sleep with air Hotspots conditioning Iglesia de la Merced Good points 1 Salsa everywhere all the time ! Amazing nightlife Really good rhum : Ron Viejo de Caldas Bad points Weather too hot ! Not a lot to do in the city Drugs offered at every corners Tips & Tricks Walk through the city Historical Downtown in half a day Writer's opinion 8/10 Enjoy the nightlife here, the real attraction in Cali !
102 Step 27/41: Cali
Rodeo Bar Oldest church in Cali 3
Practical Address Cali Sunflower Pacific 1 My opinion 8/10 Hostel In the barcrawl street I guess. Fun bar to go, more for guys though : all the Price 8 € waitressesareyoungandhot,noguys serving. Address
Carrera 27 # 3-07 Notes Cali ...... My opinion 7/10 ...... HI discount. Good hostel but a bit far ...... from the center. Not a lot of people ...... there during low season. Personal ...... balcony in the big dorm with private ...... bathroom ...... la colina ...... 2 ...... Address ...... San Antonio ...... Cali ...... My opinion 8/10 ...... Nice to have a few drinks before ...... partying ......
103 Step 27/41: Cali Map
104 Step 28/41: Popayan
most impressive settlements. The town, founded in 1537 by Sebastiàn de Belalcàzar, rapidly became the main shopping stop between Cartagena and Quito. Thanks to its friendly climate the town attracted a lot of wealthy families from Cali.
In September the town hosts a worldwide food festival, attracting chefs from all over the world. The perfect occasion to discover the local I arrived by gastronomy ! Bus/Coach It costed 5€ Hotspots
Catedral Travel time: 3 hours 1 Company Cootranar.
Good points Quiet atmosphere in the city The local gastronomy ! Volunteering at ParkLife hostel Bad points Almost nothing opened on Sundays Tips & Tricks Writer's opinion 10/10 Gastronomic city (UNESCO) : They have a lot of local Beautiful cathedral on the Parque de specialties you should try Caldas: With its neoclassical Lose yourself in the center area architecture it is the youngest church and run into random churches of the center (19th century) : the and colonial house previous one has been destroyed by an earthquake About Popayan This small colonial town, nicknamed La Ciudad Blanca or " the White City", is second only after Cartagena as Colonial
105 Step 28/41: Popayan
Iglesia Santo 2 This 140 years old bridge is still the Domingo same and still in use, next to the old bridge : Puente de la Custodia ( built in 1713).
Volcano del Puracé 4
Writer's opinion 8/10
Ceremonies there are more animated than in Europe ! Much more singing.
Writer's opinion 10/10 Puente del 3 Humilladero Accessible by bus (10€ roundtrip). This 7 hours walk is definitely a must if you'e not afraid of climbing up to 4750m high. The weather is changing quickly and can be chilly. Better get a warm jacket with you
Pueblo de Silvia 5
Writer's opinion 9/10
Writer's opinion 8/10 Accessible by bus (5€ roundtrip). This village is quite peaceful with nice viewpoints. Every Tuesday the market
106 Step 28/41: Popayan
La Fontana gathers all the local indigenous in the 2 village, coming from all around. Very typical Address
Calle 6 Cr 8 Popayán My opinion 10/10 Really good ice creams and pastries !
Carmelita 3
Practical Address Calle 5, Cr 10 Parklife Hostel Popayàn 1 Price 8 € My opinion 7/10 Good and cheap food Address
Calle 5 # 6-19 (parque Caldas) Popayán Mora Castilla My opinion 10/10 4 One of the best hostel I stayed during this trip. Not a party hostel but Address everything you need to relax and enjoy the peaceful city. The owners Calle 2 Cr 6 are as well a rich source of touristic Popayán information ! My opinion 10/10 The best place to try the local drink, el Champus. It is made of cinnamon, honey, cloves, panela honey, local
107 Step 28/41: Popayan
fruits and corn. My opinion 9/10 Some of the best arepas you'll taste !
Frutijugos 5 Pan Tolima Price 3 € 8 Address
Carrera 6 #5-78 Address Popayàn Calle 4, Parque Caldas (main square) My opinion 8/10 Popayan Awesome and cheap fresh fruits My opinion 8/10 juices, basic food Breakfast place
La Semilla Escondida 6 Wipala Price 13 € 9 Address Address Calle 5 cr 3 Popayàn Carrera 2 #2-38 Popayan My opinion 10/10 French restaurant owned by a French My opinion 9/10 couple. A taste of home ! Really good Run by a scottish guy, this is a place food, his chocolate mousse is just wheretorelaxed.Tryitsveggieburger perfect, so are his crepes. before getting a few beers.
Rapiarepa MalaBar 7 10 Price 3 €
Address Address
Calle 5 Cr 9 Carrera 5 #2-41 Popayàn Popayan
108 Step 28/41: Popayan
...... My opinion 8/10 ...... The bar is situated in a former hostel ...... and every rooms have been kept. It ...... gives an impression of privacy when ...... you sit there with a few friends. They ...... always have good music, and ...... sometimes some live...... El Sotareño ...... 11 ...... Address ...... Calle 6 #8-05 ...... Popayan ...... My opinion 10/10 ...... This bar could be found in a Tarantino ...... movie.Asinglebarmansurroundedby ...... hundred of vinyls, low light, small ...... tables and great rhum. Probably my ...... favorite bar here ! ...... Notes ......
109 Step 28/41: Popayan Map
110 Step 29/41: Tierradentro
villages of Tierradentro and San Andres de Pisimbala are tranquility, friendly locals and a very important archeological site. The main difference with San Augustin is that you will find more tombs than statues there and the opposite, with more tourists, in San Augustin.
Wake up early in the morning to enjoy the sun and have time to explore as many tombs as you want ! Some are still left unexplored because of a lack of funds I arrived by but moste still wear the traces of their Bus/Coach former decoration. These burial sites are It costed 8€ said to belong to a disappeared indigenous Colombians who lived around the 7th and 9th centuries. As the current Travel time: 5 hours population is not related to them it Company Sotracauca. Take the bus up makes it hard to know the origins and to San Andres de Pisimbala. age of the sites. Hotspots Good points Segovia Almost no tourists at all 1 Possible to rent a horse for cheap price Nature all around Bad points Rainy most of the afternoon Not a lot of place to buy cheap food Tips & Tricks Festival Nuestra Sinora de Guadaloupe early October
Writer's opinion About Tierradentro 10/10 To get there you'll have to get through rough ride and dirt roads with mountains and cliffs on the side, but you'll be well rewarded. What you can expect in the
111 Step 29/41: Tierradentro
You,ll need half a day to do the "small San Andres de Pisimbala loop" that will leads you to most of the My opinion tombs : Segovia and its 28 tombs, El 8/10 Duende (4 tombs with nice Nice hostel, somewhat possible to decorations) and El Tablon where negotiate.Theyhaveanicerestaurant statues have been gathered together opened from breakfast till dinner, thoughnotsocheap.Largequantities. Decent rooms, share bathroom. Camping available Church of San 2 Andres de Pisimbala Notes ...... Writer's opinion 10/10 ...... You'll find this very simply decorated ...... 400 years old church on the square of ...... the village ...... Practical ...... Hostel La portada ...... 1 ...... Price 7 € ...... Address ......
112 Step 29/41: Tierradentro Map
113 Step 30/41: Desierto de la Tatacoa
the jewel of Colombia. What we know call a desert is definitely a curiosity 330-sq-meters surrounded by lushes green fields. The land used to be, a few millions years ago, as luxuriant as the Amazonian forest, with a rich wildlife. Today you'll still meet goats and foxes between the cactus. The history of the place makes it a very interesting place to see and explore, by foor, horse or motorbike.
I arrived by Hotspots Bus/Coach It costed 50€ Observatory 1 5 €
Travel time: 7 hours Complicated to come from Tierradentro : stop in La Plata, in Neiva and in Villa Vieja (moto taxi)
Good points The amazing landscape The family living in the observatory Stargazing Writer's opinion 7/10
Bad points El Astronomo, Xavier Restrepo, will Bikers meeting: once a year, i show you planets and stars alike if the was there weather permit it. It is known as one Obligation to go by moto taxi of the best spot to do stargizing. Call Tips & Tricks ahead to be sure the tour is going on, as during the week it might been Note that there is the Fiesta de cancelled if there are not enough las Estrellas in July people You can drink tape water here
About Desierto de la Tatacoa Largely ignored by tourists el Desierto de la Tatacoa could be considered as one of
114 Step 30/41: Desierto de la Tatacoa
Laberintos del Cusco Observatory 2 2 Price 5 € Address
Desierto de la Tatacoa My opinion 10/10 Possible to rent a hammock or put your tent there for a very reasonable price
Notes Writer's opinion 10/10 ...... The author hasn't written a ...... description yet...... Practical ...... Yararaca ...... 1 ...... Price 5 € ...... Address ...... Desierto de la Tatacoa ...... My opinion 8/10 ...... Possible to eat there all the time...... Good and large quantities but not ...... cheap as not much around ......
115 Step 30/41: Desierto de la Tatacoa Map
116 Step 31/41: Villavieja
Museo 1 Paleontológico 1 €
I arrived by Motorbike
Writer's opinion Travel time: 1 hours 8/10 A friend of the family working at the Very interesting to understand what observatory drove me for free and the Tatacoa desert used to be and showed me around how it turned from a forest to a desert.
Good points Friendly locals Practical Chatting w/ old men on the main square Paraiso 1 About Villavieja Price 7 € Villavieja is a small desert town, ignored Address by the majority of international tourists. Fonded in 1550 the town is mostly liked Villa Vieja by inhabitants of Bogota, who are My opinion 7/10 coming there on weekends and holidays Niceswimmingpool,cleanroomsand to warm up. If you want to try cactus sharedbathrooms.Notmuchmoreto sweets, cactus wine or any other ask for. Only private rooms. products coming from the plant, this is the place ! Hotspots
117 Step 31/41: Villavieja
...... Restaurante 2 ...... Monterrey ...... Price 2 € ...... Address ...... Villa Vieja ...... My opinion 8/10 ...... Best for dinner, breakfast so so...... Typical restaurant with local food...... Great quantity...... Notes ...... 118 Step 31/41: Villavieja Map
119 Step 32/41: Villa de Leiva
Bogota and in the same time so different. Fortunately, if it is busy during the weekends, the village remains peaceful and very typical the rest of the week. It is definitely one of the most charming place I've been in Colombia. A must see. Hotspots
Plaza Mayor 1
I arrived by Bus/Coach It costed 10€
Travel time: 4 hours From Bogota. Renacer Guesthouse actually pay for your first taxi drive from the bus terminal
Writer's opinion 9/10 Good points Colonial village, very chill With its surface of 120m per 120m it is Bus ride through the countryside one of the largest squares of the Americas. Only a small fountain is to Tips & Tricks be found in the middle of it Book horseriding trip with the hostel, their guide is awesome El Fosil About Villa de Leiva 2 Considered as a national monument since 1954, Villa de Leyva is a colonial Writer's opinion village you won't want to miss. The place This fossil of a baby kronosaurus, 120 has been entirely preserved with millions years old, has been found on cobblestones streets and whitewashed this very spot in 1977. A small museum buildings. It used to be a "hidden had been built around this 7m long treasure" in Colombia, known only by locals. For a few years now it became a stop for most tourists as well, closed to
120 Step 32/41: Villa de Leiva
"baby", which used to be 12m long : displayed there. It is supposed to be the tail is missing. It is the world's one of the cult area of an ancient most complete fossil of this specimen civilisation. Something to do with and worth it. It is surrounded by other fertility as well. smaller fossils : just walking around the area you might easily bump into one. Practical
Renacer Guesthouse 1 Price 15 € Address
Villa de Leyva My opinion 10/10 Price for a double room with private bathroom. This "boutique Hotel", 1.2km north-east of the main square, reallymakesyoufeellikeyou'rehome. L'Infiernito Their on-site restaurant has good 3 food as well
Carne & Olives 2 Price 4 € Address
Villa de Leyva My opinion 10/10 Large quantity and very good food in Writer's opinion 8/10 the Menu del Dia. Definitely the perfect place for lunch after a Better to go there with a guide as horseriding tour ! there are not a lot of information
Notes ......
121 Step 32/41: Villa de Leiva Map
122 Step 33/41: San Gil
will discover why a lot of people ended up extending their stay here. Best known for white-water rafting (the Rio Suarez is one of the best spot for that) the extreme-sports amateurs will find something that suit their humor : paragliding, caving, mountain biking, buggy jumping... San Gil will offer you a lot of possibilities. Hotspots
I arrived by Parque El Gallineral Bus/Coach 1 2 € It costed 13€
Travel time: 6 hours From Villa de Leyva take a bus to Tunja (45min). There you'll get a direct bus for San Gil.
Good points Squirrels in the Parque ! Defilé in the street Writer's opinion 10/10
Bad points Peaceful place for a walk. This 4 Rainy season: raft cancelled hectares park deserves a look. Most of Look as an industrial city its trees were planted back in 1876 Tips & Tricks and are still here, decorated with "barbas de viejo" Go up the city to have a better viewpoint of the area Don't forget your swimming suit and reef shoes if you have some
About San Gil San GIl is considered like the Adventure Capital of Colombia. And it plenty deserves this title ! The city itself might not be amazing but go around it and you
123 Step 33/41: San Gil
Cascadas San Juan 2 Writer's opinion 8/10 de Curi 2 € This 18th century cathedral is just in front of the Sam's VIP hostel, on the North end of the main parc, Parque La Libertad.
Parque La Libertad 4
Writer's opinion 10/10
Take the bus for Chrata (3000pesos) and walk the 20 minutes path leading you there. This 180 meters high waterfall is worth the trip there. You can swim as well if the current is not too strong. Writer's opinion 7/10
The centre of the city social life. In Cathedral Santa Cruz weekends and at nights this is the 3 place to meet locals. Everybody is gathering there to enjoy the atmosphere. Street food vendors are always present there as well.
Practical
124 Step 33/41: San Gil
...... Sam's VIP Hostel San 1 ...... Gil ...... Price 10.76 € ...... Address ...... carrera 10 # 12-33 top floor ...... 57 San Gil ...... My opinion 8/10 ...... The staff is really helpful, the hostel ...... clean and and well located on the ...... main square. They can also book ...... activities for you...... Gringo Mike's ...... 2 ...... Price 10 € ...... Address ...... Calle 12 No 8-35 ...... San Gil ...... My opinion 9/10 ...... Mostly american food, the portions ...... are huge and the prices quite ...... reasonnable. Good cocktails as well...... Notes ......
125 Step 33/41: San Gil Map
126 Step 34/41: Barichara
upscale as well. If you're traveling cheap better stay in San Gil and make it a one day trip. The village is highly liked by film makers, looking for an authentic place. The 300 years old buildings are still doing well, giving the impression of being almost brand new ! It probably shares the title of the most beautiful colonial village with Villa de Leyva. Do not miss it ! Hotspots
I arrived by Catedral la Bus/Coach 1 It costed 2€ Immaculada Concepcion
Travel time: 1 hours Easy from San Gil. You can go back from there or from Guane. Check the timing !
Good points Bohemian lifestyle Photogenic place and amazing viewpoints Bad points Writer's opinion 10/10 Not a lot to do if you want to stay Tips & Tricks Made of sandstone this cathedral is to be found on the Parque Principal. It Bring sunblock, hat, water and dates from the the 18th century. good shoes if you plan on doing the Camino Real Try their local licor... Almost as much to eat than to drink !
About Barichara Small colonial village, it has been classified as national monument in 1978. A bit smaller than Villa de Leyva it is
127 Step 34/41: Barichara
El Camino Real 2 Writer's opinion 9/10 Tiny hamlet, very cute and peaceful.
Practical
Restaurante Guayubi 1
Address
Writer's opinion 10/10 Guane My opinion 2 hours hike to the small village of On the main square, good menu del Guane. This paved road, built by the dia indigenous Guane people, has been classified as national monument in 1988. It is an easy walk from Barichara, and you can get a bus there back to Notes Barichara or directy to San Gil...... Guane ...... 3 ......
128 Step 34/41: Barichara Map
129 Step 35/41: Santa Marta
La Ciudade Perdida, el Parque Nacional Natural di Tayrona, la Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, the small village of Taganga... It is also appreciated by Colombians who fill the city for holidays and on weekends. Hotspots
Bello Horizonte 1
I arrived by Bus/Coach It costed 28€
Travel time: 14 hours From San Gil, with the company Expreso Brasilia
Good points Writer's opinion 5/10 Being close to the sea ! Grilled fish on the beach in Go there with a cab. The place where Taganga all the 5 stars hotels are. Not really Very smiling people all the time worth it... Bad points Street vendors always calling you Taganga Tips & Tricks 2 Looking for a cheap purse ? Go to the street vendors, up to 10 Writer's opinion 10/10 times cheaper Very popular spot on the Gringo Trail. About Santa Marta The village is considered kind of a party spot as well as a good base to go The oldest surviving city and second to La Ciudade Perdida or get your most important colonial city on Colombia's Caribean cost, Santa Marta is a good starting point. From there you can easily explore the amazing surroundings :
130 Step 35/41: Santa Marta
scuba diving qualifications. A lot of Calle 12 #3-17 incredible beaches around, and easy Santa Marta access point to the PNN Tayrona. My opinion 10/10 Just downstair from the Brisa Loca, this Mexican/seafood restaurant is awesome.Thefoodisgood,theplates are quite big and the prices fairly reasonable.
Ouzo 3 Price 12 € Address
Practical Carrera 3 #19-29, Parque de los Novios La Brisa Loca Santa Marta 1 Price 10.76 € My opinion 9/10 Italian/Greekfood.Greatservice,nice Address designed interior. A good place for an Calle 14 #3-58, Centro Historico almost fancy dinner ! Santa Marta My opinion 4/10 Umi Sushi If you like party hostel this place is 4 made for you. If you're looking for a place to sleep you might prefer looking elsewhere. Their bar stays Address open late Carrera 3 #16-12 Santa Marta Agave Azul My opinion 10/10 2 On the pedestrian street, their sushis
Address
131 Step 35/41: Santa Marta
worth the try. Not that expensive Calle 16 #4-41 neither. Santa Marta My opinion 10/10 Tour agency. Can organize trips all La Paila Caliente around, especially La Ciudade Perdida. 5 Price 4 €
Address Notes Calle 20 #6-82 ...... Santa Marta ...... My opinion 9/10 ...... Menu del Dia cheap and very good ! ...... Hostal El ...... 6 Noctambulo ...... Price 6.8 € ...... Address ...... Calle 20 n°6-55, Centro historico ...... Santa Marta ...... My opinion 9/10 ...... Empty out of season, they have a very ...... nicepatiowithhamocksandthedorm ...... is really well done : a lot of space, a ...... couch, large windows...... Magic Tour 7 ...... Address ......
132 Step 35/41: Santa Marta Map
133 Step 36/41: palomino
Taganga and the city feeling of Santa Marta. It's so quiet that the only thing to do is walking along the beach, watching indigenous fishermen and waiting for the sunset. Practical
Hukuméizi Hotel 1 Price 80 € Address I arrived by Bus/Coach Palomino It costed 2€ My opinion 10/10 A luxury in my trip. Price include 3 Travel time: 1 hours meals a day, a private house on the beach, and all non alcoholic Take the Mamatoko bus from the beverages you want. With a private market, in Santa Marta. Stop at the gas beach. station and walk toward the beach or get a moto taxi. Notes Good points ...... Nothing to do but relax ...... Coco water in front of the sea ...... Feeling like we're the only ones ...... there ...... Tips & Tricks ...... Plan to have your bikini ready ...... and a few books ...... Most of the places offer 3 healthy ...... meals a day. Stop grocery ...... shopping for once ...... About palomino ...... Peaceful, offering great food and white ...... beaches, Palomino is the place to stay if ...... you wanna escape the party vibes of ......
134 Step 36/41: palomino Map
135 Step 37/41: La Ciudad Perdida
somewhere between the 11th and the 14th centuries and it is the largest Tayrona city known today. In early 70s the city has been rediscovered by grave robbers. The word spread quickly, leading to conflicts. In 1976 the government sent militaries and archeologists there to protect and preserve the area. The city itself is made of stones, the wooden habitations have disappeared a long time ago. The 170 terraces served as I arrived by Foot the foundations of these houses. Some of the largest were probably used for ritual ceremonies. There is even the spot of a former shaman school there ! With the tour company The hike is usually done in 5 days, but you can ask to do it in 4 or 6 days. It is Good points accessible to everybody but do not The landscapes all the time expect an easy hike ! Depending on the Aweome guides ! season you'll cross the river up to 9 times Just making it to the end on some days and will walk in mud. Bad points Definitely a must do in Colombia ! The rain every day Notes Agressive mosquitoes day and night !! ...... Non negotiable and quite ...... expensive ...... Tips & Tricks ...... Get a raincoat, a change for the ...... nights, and a lot of bug repellent ...... If you have a card or dice game ...... bring it on ! ...... About La Ciudad Perdida ...... The Lost City has been called that way for ...... four centuries. Built by the Tayrona ...... people it was probably their biggest ...... urban center. The city was built ......
136 Step 37/41: La Ciudad Perdida Map
137 Step 38/41: Cartagena
alleys and massive churches. Just walk around the Old town day and night to see it changing, still staying amazing. Hotspots
Plaza de los Coches 1
I arrived by Bus/Coach It costed 20€
Travel time: 4 hours Hostel to hostel transportation
Writer's opinion 10/10 Good points The old city This place used to be a slave market. Atmosphere really chill Surrounded by colonial arches you Sun and warm city, but not too will meet the founder of the city in the much middle of the square : Pedro de Heredia Bad points Prices in restaurants and bars Tips & Tricks Plaza de la Aduana Buy fruits to the ladies in the 2 street; they have everything ! In early november don't miss: Writer's opinion 10/10 Miss Colombia election and Independance festival This is the largest and oldest square of this part of the town, with a statue of About Cartagena Christopher Colombus on the middle Cartagena de Indias is a gem on the Caribbean coast. The old town is Unesco World Heritage site and it deserves it : with its old colonial buildings, its cobbled
138 Step 38/41: Cartagena
Casa Viena 1 Price 9 € Address
Calle San Andrés #30-53, Getsemani Cartagena My opinion 10/10 Convenientlocation,thissmallhouse is a very friendly hostel. They can also help you organize trips around the city, especially if you wanna cross to Volcan de Lodo El Panama 3 Totumo 18 € El Bistro 2 Price 15 € Address
Calle de Ayos #4-46, El Centro Cartagena My opinion 9/10 Price for dinner with cocktails. This German run restaurant is a sure value. Food is good, cocktails as well, and of Writer's opinion 8/10 course the beers are great. Menu changes daily Tour organized by the hostel. Possible to do alone. Climb into the crater and take a mud bath, it feels like a warm cream... Avoir weekends and holidays Notes if you want to have the crater almost ...... to yourself ...... Practical ......
139 Step 38/41: Cartagena Map
140 Step 39/41: Medellin
everywhere here. In the busy streets, when you go out at night, there is always something going on around you. This and its Spring like weather are what make the city of Medellin so amazing. But be careful ! A lot of people can never live the city once they had a taste of it ! Hotspots
El Poblado, Zona 1 I arrived by Rosa Bus/Coach It costed 50€
Travel time: 14 hours Company Expreso Brasilia. Two terminals in Medellin
Good points Efficient metro system Salsa party every night Writer's opinion 9/10 Bad points The "fancy" party places, very Nice to walk in during the day, you european really want to visit the place at night. Most of the bars and clubs are to be Tips & Tricks found around here. Go to the Plaza de la Luz at night Don't miss the Pablo Escobar tour, organized by Black Sheep Hostel Cable cars 2 2 € About Medellin Writer's opinion 8/10 Medellin is a busy metropolis located in a Give you a nice view of the city. If you narrow valley. When you look at it from the sky you realize how big a city it is ! If you're staying there for a few days you will soon feel the energy that is
141 Step 39/41: Medellin
Verdeo take the cable car K up to Santo 2 Domingo Savio you can enjoy a walk in the nature. You will feel like you're not in the city anymore ! The other Address line, linde J, will drive you up to La Aurora, for another mirador on the Carrera 35 #8A-3 city. Medellin My opinion 10/10 Vegeterian creative restaurant. Even meat lovers will love the place
Babylon 3 Price 5 € Address
Carrera 41 #9-22, Parque Lleras Medellin Practical Medellin My opinion 9/10 Black Sheep Medellin 1 Mixed music, open bar on Thursday, Price 10.76 € the place is usually crowded after midnight. If you want to "get drunk Address and party" that's your place ! Transversal 5A #45 - 133 Medellin Notes My opinion 10/10 This hostel, next to the Poblado, is ...... friendly,withgoodvibes,andthestaff ...... provideseveryinformationyoumight ...... need on Medellin. The owner is even ...... doing a barbecue every sunday ! ......
142 Step 39/41: Medellin Map
143 Step 40/41: Guatape
About Guatape The holiday town of Guatapé was founded in 1811. Ghost town for a while the tourism is coming back in Guatapé, with locals and international travelers. The week end is usually crowded and gives the town a filling of festive holidays. Definitely a good place for a one or two days trip. If you feel like it enjoy the zipline on the lake or just take a boat (sometimes with I arrived by bar and dancefloor) for another sight on Bus/Coach the place. It costed 5€ Guatapé is also famous for its typical houses. Very colorful they all have some Travel time: 2 hours bas-relief, handmade, on the lower part. Bus from Medellin. In the week end If you take time to look at them you'll see buy your ticket back as soon as you how amazing some are. arrive ! Hotspots
Good points Piedra del Peñol Holiday feeling 1 4 € Amazing view all around ! So much colours in the village Bad points 659 steps up the Piedra... Worth it ! Price to go up El Peñol/la Piedra Tips & Tricks Take a jeep from the Piedra to the village of Guatape if you feel tired or lazy Lose yourself in the village and Writer's opinion 7/10 enjoy the relaxed vibes of the place
144 Step 40/41: Guatape
...... Long walk up the "Piedra" 659 steps...... But it totally worth it. The view up ...... there is amazing...... Iglesia de Santa 2 ...... Barbara ...... Writer's opinion 7/10 ...... This Baroque church was built by the ...... Jesuites in the 18th century. It is the ...... most interesting of the town ...... Notes ......
145 Step 40/41: Guatape Map
146 Step 41/41: Salento
About Salento Set 24km North of Armenia, this small town has been founded in 1850. Its economy is based on coffee production, trout farming and on tourism. The tourists come more and more numerous to visit this small gem, far from any big cities, and its amazing surroundings. Salento is known as a good base to go visit the Valle de Cocora. But it is also a perfect place to explore the South of the I arrived by Parque de Los Nevados, especially when Bus/Coach the Northern entrance, in Manizales, is It costed 15€ closed for volcanic activities. It is possible to cross the park, from Salento to Manizales, in 5 days. Travel time: 7 hours Hotspots Bus to Pereira, and then to Armenia : stop in Salento. Horseriding to 1 Cascadas San Rita Good points 19 € Horseriding in an incredible setting Like Guatapé, very colorful Friendly feeling all around the place Bad points Rainy, almost every afternoon Tips & Tricks Wake up early to get to Valle de Cocora. You'll get a better weather ! Writer's opinion 10/10 If you plan on going to the Parque de Los Nevados plan at We went there with horses. Definitely least 3 days to enjoy worth it ! The guide working with the
147 Step 41/41: Salento
Parque de Los hostel is amazing and his horses are 3 like his babies. After the ride he invited Nevados us for a coffee and we had a chance to actually talk about Colombia, its history, and the guerilla/ farcs problem with someone who lived it. Only for that it would have worth it ! The ride itself was really fun as well.
Valle de Cocora 2 4 €
Writer's opinion 10/10
The Northern entrance in Manizales was closed so we enjoyed the walk south of the park. If you can plan at least 3 days : one to go up, one to come back, and one up there. The weather was not good enough to go touch the snow, but we enjoyed a walk to the Laguna Encantado. You Writer's opinion 10/10 can sleep at the refuge Primaveira In the lower part of the Parque de Los (10000pesos / night). They also Nevados you can easily take this 5 provide food and cold shower. hours hike. It will take you through the forest, in the middle of a green valley full of wax palms (palma de cera), the Practical Colombian national tree, and you will meet numerous colibris. Try the Hostel Tralala Aguapanela if you stop at the Reserva 1 Natural Acaime Salento
Price 8.96 €
Address
148 Step 41/41: Salento
Carr 7, No 6-45 Salento Notes My opinion 10/10 ...... You'll find here everything one can ...... hope : friendly staff, hot showers, ...... patio with hammocks, dvd library, ...... kitchen... even plastic boots renting ! ...... Their dorms are large and not ...... crowded. A must...... Pizza Punto y Coma ...... 2 ...... Price 3 € ...... Address ...... Carrera 6 #5-02, main square ...... Salento ...... My opinion 9/10 ...... Good and cheap breakfast. Ideal ...... before a long day hike ! ...... Alegra ...... 3 ...... Price 12 € ...... Address ...... cnr Calle 4 & Carrera 7 ...... Salento ...... My opinion 10/10 ...... Home-made international dishes, ...... frompastatoveggieburger.Excellent ...... fruit juices as well......
149 Step 41/41: Salento Map
150 "Dynamic, easy going, sportive, and open minded, I am a student in transit in Paris when I am not travelling. I never had the occasion to leave for a long period of time but it is my next objective : a world tour ! In the meanwhile I am partying with friends, skiing a lot, having fun as much as I can, and working from time to time. I'm also doing some couchsurfing in order to keep meeting other travellers, even when being stuck in Paris ;)"
Aurélie Hazak
The BackpackMojo team
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