Publisher: Naturpark Schwarzwald Mitte/Nord www.naturparkschwarzwald.de

Design: xxdesignpartner Images: the communities involved © Naturpark 2012

Naturpark Schwarzwald mitte/nord

We are partners and supporters of the Nature Park: Timber rafting trail www.duravit.de Kinzig valley www.alpirsbacher.de Karlsruhe Lossburg Stuttgart Alpirsbach Strasbourg Offenburg Schenkenzell www.aok-bw.de Kinzigtal Schiltach Wolfach Freiburg Constance Basel www.ausgezeichnet-geniessen.de

Zurich

Information board texts This project was sponsored by the Nature Park Black Forest Central/North of the state Baden-Württemberg, the lottery Glücksspirale in English and the European Union (ELER). Stops between Lossburg 1 Information board Lossburg and Alpirsbach 2 Source region of the Kinzig and Lossburg community Length: 10 km 3 The beginning of timber rafting in the upper Kinzig valley For more information: Lossburg 1 4 Forestry 2 5 The raft www.floesserpfad.de 6 “The mills are a'clacking in the Kinzig valley” Lossburg-Information im KinzigHaus 7 Information board Ehlenbogen Hauptstraße 46, Lossburg, Tel. +49 (0)7446 950460 3 [email protected] 8 The mini weir www.lossburg.de 4 9 History of Ehlenbogen Stops between Alpirsbach 5 10 Information board Alpirsbach Stadt-Information Alpirsbach eile 6 orfm and Wolfach Krähenbadstraße 2, Alpirsbach D 11 The Kinzig valley in the “wooden ages” Length: 22 km Tel. +49 (0)7444 9516 281 7 12 Skipper guilds and raftsmen [email protected] 13 How the Kinzig became “wooden” www.alpirsbach.de 14 The Black Forest sectional raft Tourist-Information Schenkenzell 8 15 The load – what was transported on the rafts Reinerzaustraße 12, Schenkenzell 9 16 Lashing and dam site Tel. +49 (0)7836 9397 51 [email protected] 17 Raft hands, river criers and flaziers (vulgar people) www.schenkenzell.de 18 “Our water for rafting is fetched at night” Tourist-Information Schiltach 19 Preparing the timber rafts Marktplatz 6, Schiltach 20 When the timber is ready ... Tel. +49 (0)7836 5850 21 Information board Schiltach [email protected] 22 Schiltach – the city of half-timbered houses, www.schiltach.de raftsmen and tanners Tourist-Information Wolfach 23 Traveling through the countryside Hauptstraße 41, Wolfach 10 24 Rafting through hell Tel. +49 (0)7834 8353 53 11 25 A chute for timber [email protected] www.wolfach.de Alpirsbach 26 Every raftsman who belongs … 27 What happened to the timber that was not rafted? 12 28 Raftsmen in demand as experts! Train station 29 Sawing, plank rafts and vine poles 13 Bus stop 30 Border country Kinzig valley? 31 Parking Hard work– good food! 32 Refreshments Wolfach in the days of rafting 14 33 Tourist information Wolfach the final stop? Not by far! 15 34 Information board Wolfach

16 Schenkenzell Wolfach 17 32 18 33 31 34 30 25 24 19 27 26 21 22 20 29 23 28 Schiltach

Tour the Black Forest free of charge with the KONUS guest ticket – of course, including the Kinzig valley! Ask your host or your tourist office. Stops 1, 10, 21, 34 Stop 10

Johann Staiger recounts his eventful life as a raftsman: Welcome to the timber rafting trail “On board everybody! I'll take you down the Kinzig to Wolfach Kinzigtal ! on my raft if you wish. And if you then offer to buy me a jug of wine then I'll tell you a tale or two as we ride down the river. Experience one of the most beautiful sections of the Between you and me: the landlord of the Crown, the skipper who owns this raft, timber rafting trail between need not know! But please let me introduce myself. I am Staiger Johann, born Lossburg and Alpirsbach in 1810, the year when my home town Schiltach passed from the kingdom of and join the travels of Württemberg to the grand duchy of Baden. Aged forty-five, I am the foreman on Johann Staiger, a raftsman this raft and also its navigator. I stand at the front and steer the raft. You need a lot from the 19th century, along of strength and skill, but above all experience, and of that I have plenty. the second section from There is many a tale I can tell you about timber rafting on the Kinzig and the timber Alpirsbach to Wolfach. business. So: make yourselves comfortable on the pile of planks behind me – and off The trail can be divided into as we go! And don't forget: we stop off for my jug of wine!” many single stages as you like. Excellent train connections are available. Comprehensive information on timber rafting is provided all along the trail.

Detailed information on routes by bus, rail or automobile is available at www.floesserpfad.de.

A timber rafting trail for everybody The timber rafting trail between Halbmeil and Wolfach can be traveled without obstructions. For the return trip we recommend taking the Kinzig valley railway which can accommodate prams or wheelchairs without problems. Further information on barriers or obstructions is available at www.floesserpfad.de/barrierefrei.

Geo-Caching Between Lossburg and Wolfach a total of four GPS treasure hunts await old and young along the rafting trail, in Wolfach even free of obstructions! Each solved puzzle will be awarded with a stamp in the rafting quiz card and, of course, there will be a small prize for the successful treasure hunters!

Geocaching is presently only available in German. Please check our website www.floesserpfad.de/geocaching, to see if other languages have since been added.

Rental GPS equipment is available from the tourist offices in Lossburg, Schiltach and Wolfach. Timber rafting in Wolfach (Eduard Trautwein) Stop 11 Stop 12 The Kinzig valley in the Skipper guilds and “wooden ages” skippers

“Now, in the With a length of 92 km and numerous “Today the forest farmers are Already in the Middle Ages, the sovereigns summer season I make my tributaries, the Kinzig has the greatest catch- allowed to raft on their own assigned the rights to timber trade to living as a raftsman as you ment area of all rivers in the Black Forest account. But in earlier days, selected subjects. They were called skippers can see, and in the winter I am (1422 sq km). It is the only river to cross the when I learned rafting from which indicated how they solved the a lumberjack. This is when the mountains completely from east to west. my father, only the skippers problem of timber transport: by utilizing the trees are felled and trimmed From its source near Lossburg at 680 m were allowed to run rafts. rivers, the natural path to the Rhine. and taken to the collection height it drops by a massive 550 m until They owned the privilege and Such means of transport required organiza- points on the Kinzig and its reaching its estuary into the Rhine at Kehl. exercised rigid control over tion and considerable financial means: the tributaries. timber rafting. Its many branches shape the countryside, waterways needed to be cleared, weirs had And I can tell you, this is hard a “valley Black Forest” with high mountain By trade, many of them were to be constructed – and repaired often! This and dangerous work on the tops and deep valleys, the vegetation being landlords of inns. They were was not possible by individuals, which led to steep slopes. Nonetheless it mainly woods. all members of guilds – and the establishment of “skippers guilds”. In the is fun. Letting the logs race that is where the money was. Kinzig valley they were based in Wolfach and Even in the Middle Ages these forests down the icy chutes into the And it's not that different Schiltach. In 1544 it was said: “The people attracted the attention of the cities on the valley, so fast that you can today either. Money attracts of the Kinzig is fed by wood which they raft Rhine which needed timber in all its forms, hardly see them. money. And we, the raftsmen to Strasbourg and make a lot of money”. whether as building timber for timber-framed who receive a daily wage for Fortunately there is plenty houses or lofts, as working material for In 1766 ten skippers had been appointed in trimming the trees, building of forest in the upper Kinzig craftsmen, as firewood or charcoal for heat Württemberg's Kinzig valley, 12 in Schiltach, the rafts and then get a fixed valley. Here it is not as bad or energy. six in Alpirsbach and two in Lehengericht. wage for bringing the goods as in other parts of the Black The sovereign Fürstenberg allowed The fast-expanding cities, located in forest- to their destination, can see Forest where the mountains 20 Wolfachers to trade in timber, so that this free areas, had an enormous appetite for how we make ends meet. are often bare as the towns region had a considerable number of timber timber. Even in the 14th century timber need so much wood. And, as the skippers assemble traders. traders from Strasbourg cam to the remote their crews for the next Strasbourg for example, now upper Kinzig valley to acquire the rich timber They were usually merchants or innkeepers journey in the pubs – their there's a city that just seems reserves. Wood was so important in those for whom the timber trade provided own pubs, of course, if they to devour building timber days, that the period prior to 1800 was called additional, if risky, income. A skipper was own one – you have to spend and firewood from the Kinzig the "Wooden Ages”. to call his own the sum of 300,000 thalers, money in the pubs to earn valley. Even the Dutch 100,000 as forest, 100,000 on the water and The oldest map of the Upper Rhine and the Kinzig valley anything. need our timber. The most (Martin Waldseemüller, 1513) 100,000 in cash – just in case! magnificent Black Forest fir Nothing against a nice Strasbourg in the late Middle Ages Wolfach's raft owner Roman Armbruster and trees adorn the Dutch sailing pub though – don’t forget, (Schedel’s World Chronic, 1493) his raftsmen (1887) ships as masts across the my jug of wine!” “The timber rafts at Wolfach” Seven Seas – places I will (unknown painter, around 1823) never ever see. ”

“Sammel Isaac”, Lumberjacks a Schiltach raftsman (before 1917) (around 1885) Stop 13 Stop 14 How the Kinzig became The Black Forest “wooden” sectional raft

“When I was a boy In 1398 Strasbourg sent carpenters to “See that cliff over there Even today a tall fir tree is referred to as a there was no better opportu- Schramberg in the Schiltach valley to buy protruding into the river? That “Dutchman” in the Black Forest: trees in this nity of earning good money timber and turn it into firewood. But how to is the Hanging Stone. Steering category (minimum size 18 m long and 48 cm than when we drifted fire- transport the volume of timber over a raft past this narrow section circumference at the narrow end) were wood down the Kinzig: 120 kilometers? The roads were too bad a is an art in itself. You need a transported all the way to Holland where they you throw chopped logs for state for carts, the distance too great. practiced eye and a good sense were sought after for civil engineering, and firewood into the river of judgement – and, of course, the building of harbors and ships. The river proved to be the solution: it and fish them out at their a raft that will do as it is told. flows into the Kinzig which flows into the It was impossible to just let these giants destination. Rhine, which in turn passes Strasbourg. Have no fear, I know my work, drift. The were tied to give “sections” and It is tough work for a kid to This provided a waterway which made the the raft is well constructed, manouvered by raftsmen. Connecting 20 to 35 carry large chunks of wood operation possible. the way my father built it: of these sections resulted in “vehicles” from morning to nightfall the flexible joins between the of up to 450 m length. This was an amazing Letting timber drift was the easiest form from the stock piles to the individual sections of the raft new capacity, so that the sectional raft is of transport: blocks of wood and logs river bank and throw them are the most important parts regarded as being a major development of the were simply thrown into the river and moved into the water. Every piece for navigating a raft along Black Forest raftsmen. downstream in their thousands, accompanied has its own weight. the narrow bending rivers and by lumberjacks who broke up dangerously This required considerable knowledge about streams here. It is this flexi- In the evenings every single congesting wood with poles. This form of the behavior of timber in such large volumes: bility that allows the raft to muscle hurts, and it is only “wild rafting” took place in spring when the specially twisted branches were used to make manouver through the tight then that you realize how water is plentiful and carries well. flexible ropes. Shorter sections were placed bends. I steer the first section many muscles you have! at the front of the raft, wider and stronger Up to 8,000 fathoms of wood drifted down and the others follow. But I was certainly proud sections in the middle to give the raft stability. the Kinzig annually towards Strasbourg. They when I received my wages and The raft is built with the The branch ropes made the raft so flexible that also supplied the iron foundries in Schiltach counted the coins! narrower ends of the logs next it was possible to navigate bends and weirs. and Wolfach with wood, as well as the paint to each other at the front of However, I had to give them mill in Alpirsbach and the ironworks in A raft was highly efficient in terms of econo- the raft section. This makes to my mother, but so what. Hausach. mics and ecology: a vehicle and goods in one, the front of the following raft Once I was given a penny it was taken apart at its destination and all its Even in 1860, some 11,000 fathoms (30,000 section narrower then the end extra as I had worked really parts were sold. Once on the water, the timber m) were drifted down the Rhine. This equals a of the preceding section which hard at throwing firewood required no other means of transportation, the wooden wall 30 kilometers long and 1 meter ensures that the raft does not into the Kinzig and I thought I moving river provided the energy required – high, making the Kinzig look “wooden”. connect with the river bank. could keep it for myself. free of charge! I'll tell you more later on, now Raftsmen bringing drift wood to the stream, But my mother found out. I have to pay attention during with the flush in the background (around 1865). Tip: the “hanging stone”, a natural monument And I am not going to tell you this tight bend!” was already mentioned as the “Wagodenstein” Drifting: the drifting timber is recovered and stacked what happened then.” (around 1720). around 1100 as a border stone of the Alpirsbach monastery.

“Rafting timber in the Black Forest” (Karl Roux, 1868)

Raft construction in Drift wood rafting Schiltach's “Harzwägle” Stop 15 Stop 16 The load – what was Lashing and dam site transported on the rafts? “Now this is where it counts. Here in Schenkenzell was where the rafts from “Right, we've When the old Earl of Fürstenberg was invited We are approaching a weir. I Alpirsbach passed through, but also where passed through this dan- to medieval games at Offenburg in 1483 he only hope that my raft boy, new rafts were joined together. Once the heavy gerous bend! Now you can was to “come on the water” by raft. Travelers Uli, who runs ahead of the logs had been brought to the stream from the relax again on the piles of often used the Kinzig for this purpose in raft has opened it in time. Not forests, the raftsmen joined them together planks. But please stay clear those days. too early, so that the dammed to raft sections and lashed them to make of the barrels! They are not water has already drained new rafts. Such a “lashing station” was found The rafts also transported products, “the full of beer! They contain off before we get there. But wherever timber had been transported from load”, which could be transported down the cobalt from the mines in this not too late either with the the mountains and valleys, always fronted by valley cheaply: heavy oak trees for building area. The cobalt is en route to water still dammed before a weir. houses and ridges, saw mill products such Holland. the weir instead of covering as beams, planks, boards, sticks and poles. A the same time it formed a “dam” for the the stones below the weir – or Cobalt blue – does that mean Craftsmen supplied spokes, handles, barrel water. This was necessary to provide water even worse, with us ramming anything to you? And Delft? staves, wheels and slates and their sales areas levels which would carry the rafts on rivers the closed weir which would The landlord of the Crown Inn, increased dramatically with transportation which were often too shallow for the rafts. endanger not only the raft but the skipper who owns this raft, by river. This involved an elaborate water damming also our lives. decorates his home with the technique consisting of weirs and dams where Resin was gained from spruce trees which blue tiles from Delft. With a Uli has to open the weir at just the water was “dammed”. was then processed in resin boiling houses, wide grin he always says this the right time so that our raft pine carbon black huts and tar kilns. Packed The created swell was never enough to is how the cobalt returns to is carried along on the wave in barrels, their products (resin, turpentine, provide a complete journey to the Rhine. In the Black Forest. It is easy for and the released water carries carbon black, tar) were transported to the times of water shortage this could take up him to smile! He can buy a us over stones and shoals. users on rafts who then used them to make to six days, and “rewatering” was a frequent lot of tiles with the money he shoe and saddle pitch, resins, pigments, inks But one thing I can tell you: exercise. This was the task of the raft boys: earns from transporting the and printing ink. this is going to be a wet expe- early in the morning they went upstream, barrels of cobalt, at least that rience for my passengers. I raised the water traps and opened the is my opinion. Other forestry products included the barks often stand up to my hips in gambers, the large lifting beams which blocked of oaks and spruce which the tanners used The skippers are always the swirling spray at the front the passageways for the rafts. as tanning agent as well as potash and keen on earning a bit extra of the raft when we shoot buckthorn which was used for making gun As soon as a swell came, the “raft crew” joined by taking on extra loads. down the ramp, and the rear powder. The cobalt pigments of the paint together and prayed for a successful journey. And for the traders it is still raft sections get their fair mills in Alpirsbach and Wittichen were also Once the water lifted the raft sections, the cheaper and easier to have share too plus a nice wave as fated to Holland where the gained fame as “retaining lashing” was chopped in two with their planks, beams and other well. So, here we go!” “Delft blue” in the local ceramics. an axe – the wave took the raft with it and the goods transported on the raft “journey through the lands” was on its way. rather than using the poor The oldest illustrations of rafting (around 1600): Old raft weir in Schiltach: roads with horse-drawn carts.” raftsmen navigate a sectional raft from the Kinzig into the raft channel is opened by Tip: a reconstrcuted original gamber is on the Rhine, Strasbourg on the left. swiveling the gamber (drawing by H. Eyth, 1902) display at the Flößerwiese (raft site) in Schiltach. Tedious rafting on a narrow stream

Stream installations for rafting Three-sectional raft with load and passengers, on the Upper Kinzig the landing pier in the back with stacks of timber. (design: Luise Herrmann-Jehle)

Kinzig raftsmen passing a weir Delft tiles (around 1885) Stop 17 Stop 18 Raft hands, river criers and “Our water for rafting is flaziers (vulgar people) fetched at night”

“Done. We have The request for prayers on the wayside shrine “We are approaching the The Schenkenzell weir was of special signifi- passed the weir. Everything are dedicated to a certain Matthis Bühler Schenkenzell weir. Can you see cance: this is where the water was dammed went the way it should. But who “staid in the water following death by the men there standing in the for the large rafts. But often there was only that is not always so. I have accident”. He had a fatal accident. water between the floating enough water to travel 20 to 30 km, then the experienced a number of hairy logs in their hip-high boots? rafts grounded. This meant that one of the Reports of such accidents are common. Some situations during my rafting raftsmen had to go back up the river, dam were crushed between the logs, another They manouver the logs into career. water again and release a new swell. Because slashed his carotid while luffing. The writer the right position for making this was done at night and he missed out on When the rear raft sections Hansjakob writes “they all ended up with raft sections. his sleep, he was given the “night gilder”. move faster than the front disabilities, usually broken legs”. That is no easy job I can sections and cannot be slowed The weir was a massive river installation: The raftsmen were subjected to the sheer assure you, standing in the down in time, then the situati- behind the wooden constructions the river force of the elements in the forests and on cold water for fourteen hours on becomes precarious. was dammed to form a “pond” behind the the rivers. They had a hard and dangerous job every day, even if the boots weir. To release the swell water, the raftsmen Even worse when the raft with the forces they unleashed and are waterproof! And quite retracted the weir panel and loosened the hits an obstruction and the controlled. a few raftsmen end up with planks. There was a separate channel for sections slide over each other rheumatism in their older Their standing in society as “raft hands” was rafting. and break. In the worst case days. low: they were regarded as violent, hard scenario you could get crushed Whereas the Alpirsbach skippers had the drinking and vulgar. Because of their loud I have often been a party to by the logs. right to pass through, the forest farmers had voices the were called “river criers”, and their joining the raft sections here to stop and offer their timber for sale to the Thank God nothing serious robust character resulted in sayings such at the Schenkenzell weir as it skippers from Wolfach and Schiltach. These has ever happened to me. I as “swear like a flazier”, “coarse as a flazier”, is one of the more important then converted the small “forest rafts” to have been lucky, many rafts- “thirsty like a flazier”. joining points. According to longer and wider rafts. men have broken a leg or two. the new rafting regulations, It was only when they no longer existed And I know of more than one rafts can be wider and longer The Schenkenzell weir belonged to the state that they were glorified, their work declared lethal accident. from here on than on the of Baden and was supervised by the river adventure which could only be handled by upper parts of the Kinzig. bailiff. Like the Kinzig as “road for rafting”, Once, the gamber (opening real mean: true characters, courageous and the weir had to be serviced annually to stay in a weir) was not luffed in strong. It was largely painters and writers And I have earned many a in a “rafting condition”. This was referred to time and the raft could not of the time that transformed the reality of penny here – and spent most as “cleaning the river” and “sealing the weir”. be stopped. The bow section rafting with poetic glory. of them at the regulars' table The costs were divided among the skipper jammed between the beam for raftsmen in the Schiltach Raftsmen from Alpirsbach-Rötenbach with their tools guilds of Wolfach and Schiltach. and the planks and the pubs. After all, after a long day (around 1880) raftsman was crushed. in icy water the body needs Ride over the weir at Hochmutsteich Schenkenburg, Schenkenzell and Schenkenzell weir (Eduard Trautwein, 1942, town hall Schiltach) some warm refreshment from (Maximilian von Ring, 1828) I always say the Lord's Prayer the inside. But my wife does Plan of the Schenkenzell weir (1840) when I go rafting.” not understand that, women, is all I can say.”

Raftsmen on the Kinzig above Raftsmen working the river Schiltach (around 1885) (around 1885) Stop 19 Stop 20 Preparation – with a raftsman's “Here at the Harzwägle the “Once the timber is prepared, axe and lashing drill logs from the Häberlesberg are launch it.” joined to raft sections in the “We are now While the logs were transported to the river After preparation, the logs are rolled into the water and the sections then approaching Schiltach, with carts or via chutes (lowered), they had water (launched) and lashed together. This joined to form a raft. And not where I live with my Luise and to be prepared for rafting: it was hard work was done at the lashing site, also called the with ropes made of hemp as the boys. assembling logs of the same size and length. “Waag” (a deep place in the river). you might think. A very capable woman, is The next step was “holing”: holes had to There were four of these sites, the Harzwägle, my Luise, and educated too. Such a raft is subjected to be drilled at the top and bottom of each log the Scheidwaag, the LeubacherWaag, and the She knows a lot of sayings. enormous forces, and especially (thin and thick ends) through which the Brückenwaagteich. The heavy logs are easier My favorite is: “An axe in the joins between the indivi- lashings could be threaded. to manhandle in the water, so the raftsmen the house saves paying the dual raft sections really take worked in the water, in teams of up to twelve carpenter.” Luise always uses To this end, triangular recesses were chopped a beating, no rope can handle men. it when something is broken. with the axe before using the sharp lashing this. This is why we use lashings And then I know, it is my turn drills. These recesses avoided sharp edges for joining, largely made from As soon as 20 to 35 of these raft sections had to get things fixed. which would have otherwise splayed the long strong hazelnut branches been lashed, they were joined together with lashings. One can still find such lashing holes or also from young firs or lashings. The first section was the guiding And handle an axe, that is (“rafter's eyes”) in old timber frames and lofts spruce trees. section with the rudder. The brakes were something I am certainly which indicate that these timbers had been placed on on the rear sections: mechanical capable of. After all, it is my If I can't find a job rafting, rafted originally. brakes made of sturdy beams, which, when most important tool. To get then I am glad to earn money pushed into the river bed, either extended the one of these proud trees out Next to the lashing drill and the axes, other making lashings so I can bring raft or brought it to a standstill. of the forest and float it down tools were also used for preparation: the something home to my Luise the river as a raft takes a lot of sapie (hammer and cant hook) for rotating in the evening. Once the It was this invention which made safe blows with an axe! And once the logs, cantilevers for lifting, turning branches have been properly navigating of larger rafts possible. the tree is felled, the branches rings for moving. The diameter of a log was immersed in water they are There were regulations for the length and need to be trimmed off, the determined with a timber measuring placed in a pre-heated kiln the crew: in 1850 the rafts from Schenkenzell bark removed, the tip of the instrument, the length was determined using right next to the fire and truly to Schiltach were allowed to be 18 feet wide log needs to be rounded off the “river crop” which measured 10 feet (3 m). heated, we call it “gebäht”. and 1600 feet long (1 foot = 30 cm), they had and holes made with a drill Immediately after they need to While lumberjacks worked in the forests, to be equipped with two brakes and a crew so that the log can be lashed be twisted to make a sort preparation was the work of the raftsmen. of eight. to make a raft. We call it of rope. To do this, we fix the prep-work and what would I Utensils and tools used by raftsmen thicker end of these heated From Schiltach onwards, a width of 20 feet be without my axe. I also like Schiltach raftsmen during preparatory work (1889) rods to a solid tree trunk, the and a length of 2000 feet were permitted, using my axe to reign in logs lashing anchor, and wrap them with three brakes and a crew of twelve. It is although there are explicit round a wooden pole starting said that a raft with an amazing 750 m length raft hooks to do the job. from the thinner side. once left Wolfach.

You are welcome to lift my This requires quite some Raftsmen joining rafts at the “Harzwägle” in Schiltach (1889) tools! And then you can feel muscle power and experience I Weir and trap of the “Harzwägle” (Karl Eyth, 1907) that my job is nothing for fine can tell you, as does everything gentry with no muscles!” to do with my job. But any lashing I make will hold just about anything together, and at least I know what I have.”

“Glaser Ulrich”, a Schiltach raftsman Lashings join logs and around 1885 raft sections Stop 21 Stop 22 Stop 22 Schiltach – “The city of half-timbered houses, raftsmen “And over there, that “Rafts have the right of way. and tanners” is where my stepson No matter how irritated they The medieval townscape and the old trades Jacob works in the tannery. He may be, the millers: when are characteristics of Schiltach and are wants to become a foreman like I, as “commander” of a raft maintained as cultural heritage. The old part his father who has passed away. demand they close the locks of the town with its half-timbered houses is to their mills so that enough That surprises you, that I married both picturesque and busy, even if rafting is water can accumulate in the the widow of a tanner? Without something of the past. weir to provide a swell for the the inheritance of my Luise we raft, then they have to obey. In 1894, when the last raft was launched, the would barely have managed to majority of the population made their living survive the bad years when famine This always spells trouble, but from trading timber, and reminders of those reigned and the timber trade had that's not my pigeon. Let the The rafting town of Schiltach days abound: memories of skippers and in the 19th century (surveyor virtually come to a standstill due millers and the skippers guilds Weber, 1843) raftsmen, the remainders of weirs and ponds. to the revolution. sort this out with regard to A visit to the old town center damages due to lost income as And writers like Hansjakob and painters like is well worth doing. Cross the But now things are looking bridge and walk up the steps. the mills have to stop working the brothers Eyth, Hasemann and Trautwein brighter again and Luise has no Follow the rafting trail in because of the timber rafts. have done everything to keep memories of reason to complain. Which she direction of Wolfach and you And as of late, factories are timber rafting alive. will reach the raft site after actually never did. She knows what now being built along the approx. 100 m. Here you can she has in me. And she would not A tawery – the only one far and wide – view a real “gamber”. Kinzig. To get to the highly interesting really have known how to manage still tans skins and leather the old way in rafting museum, follow the life together with Jacob, who was The industrialists holler even Schiltach's tradtion as a city of tanneries. rafting trail in the direction missing a father. louder than the millers when of Wolfach, cross the bridge In 1998, the “Schiltach raftsmen” revived after approx. 400 m and their machines stop running then proceed left for 100 m. I took him with me into the forests rafting: they twist lashings, build rafts and as the water is diverted for The museum is located directly and showed him how to remove journey down the river demonstrating the old on the Kinzig. rafting. But who was there the bark from logs so that he techniques. They have a gamber, a chute and first? The factories? Where do could see where the tanning agent a “Dutchman” on display at the raft site. The factory owners take the right comes from which he will use later rafting museum on the river bank possesses a from to complain when their on to tan animal skins to leather. collection of rafting paraphernalia: tools, rare Schiltach in the year 1885. new fancy machines are at And then I told him to drive the photos, models of rafts and chutes. A raft with eight sections on loggerheads with a trade that the Kinzig. sled packed with bark into the has been inherent to the Black valley. In the evening he was tired Forest and fed its people for but happy, no time to come up hundreds of years. Can you with any silly ideas!” explain that to me?”

A tanner demonstrates his historical craft (Picture: D. Albert) Stop 23 Stop 24 All about rafting – Rafting through “hell” a journey through the lands “Fortunately the river carries So-called river associations were established “ ‘Abraham, brake!‘ The writer Hansjakob referred to the raftsmen enough water today so there for the tributaries to the Kinzig. These included Yes, Abraham our brakeman as “prehistoric musclemen”, and indeed, is no risk of stranding and the major forest farmers, and the sovereign has heard me. Together with they needed their strength when navigating spending hours if not days to Fürstenberg for their forests. However, they only his braking assistant he rams their rafts on the rapid swells at speeds up get the raft afloat again. had the right to raft their timber to the Kinzig. the brake, a strong beam, to 15 km/h. This required courage and fast But rafting is not always To this end, a dam was erected at the upper through a hole on the raft into reactions to bring the wet and wobbly vehicle plain sailing like today. And Heubach: a wall with a water gate and a trap the bed of the river, the raft safely to its destination Willstätt some 70 km on some of the tributaries which was retracted for damming. The lashing starts to slow down. away. you can sure break out in a site was positioned in front so that the raft could You sure need a loud voice to The “driver” was at the helm who had to sweat! Especially here at the be carried away by the water swell. Rafting on carry from one end of the raft direct the raft into the rafting channels and Heubach, every raftsman looks this narrow, 6 km long section of the river was to the other where the brake avoid any collisions. Other raftsmen shoved death straight into the eye, only possible by using this installation. The raft is located. But we are still too the rafts from the river banks. Two of the they say. sections were only 4 to 5 logs wide, the rafts fast, we need to stop and dock crew manned the brakes and waited for 150 to 200 m long. Rafting through the dark steep the raft (we call it ‘hobbling’): orders, for example, to prevent the raft from ravine is hell – and that is why Before reaching the Kinzig, the raftsmen had to I can already see the rings on jack-knifing. Then they rammed the “brake the gorge is called just that! I pass through “hell”, a narrow gorge, and “catch” the wall at the river. ‘Abraham, peg” into the river bed to allow the raft to find it difficult to find grip on the raft several times: the river is so steep that brake!’ Now we need to steer stretch. However, if they braked too much, the wet logs in the swirling the raft became faster than the current and this the bow of the raft that it the water could speed ahead of the raft, mist, and yet I have to navi- had to be prevented to avoid grounding. The comes alongside the wall grounding the raft. The fresh water had to gate through the narrowest of “catcher” jumped onto the river bank with a rope, without ramming it. I have be supplied and this could cost a complete gaps and the most dangerous wound it round a tree trunk and thus stopped to steer and Abraham needs day's work. bends as we speed along. the raft. Once the water had caught up with the to brake and all the other In 1850, the daily wages for raftsmen at the raft, he jumped back on board, a risky procedure raftsmen in the middle of the But that is the way it is: no lashing site – which started and ended with which had to be performed more than once on raft need to guide the sections stream is too narrow, steep or daylight – were 40 creutzers. The raft journey, each journey. along the river bank with their rocky for a rafting trail! This regardless of duration, was remunerated with poles so that we can dock means, removing stones, bla- Nobody gives greater insights into timber rafting a sum of 3.5 to 4.5 gilders, plus “soup money” safely. sting rocks and leveling river than the local author Heinrich Hansjakob in his for food and accommodation. banks just to fit a timber raft book “Forest people” (1897). We have to take on some load Raftsmen on the Kinzig through! And we have to risk here, a few crates with leather The “swell” at the Upper Heubach, (Wilhelm Hasemann, around 1890). our lives for that.” and furs from the tanneries. erected of sandstone (1980) Braking section with protruding brake A good time for a quick break (Wilhelm Hasemann, 1889) Raft building on the Kinzig at Hohenstein (Heinrich Eyth, 1923) in the pub for a mug of wine, what do you think?”

Rafting in Wolfach on the occasion of a traditional costume “A ride through hell” festival in 1929 by Wilhelm Hasemann (1897) Stop 25 Stop 26 A chute for timber “Every raftsman who belongs …” “Can you see that man over “Another task The timber, the felled trees or the firewood The river installations, weirs and ponds there, surveying the river where I am had to be brought from the mountains to necessary at certain intervals had to be bank? That is the rafting always in fear for my life is the water. Often this was only possible using serviced meticulously. Supervised rafting supervisor from Wolfach, a working the chutes. artificial chutes along which the timber slid was only permitted from April till November. person who commands into valley – sometimes over distances over Supervised rafting was risky during winter, The chutes are constructed respect. 1000 meters! when the snow melted or in case of floods. on the slopes to let the logs He is just checking on the The weirs had to be in perfect working race down the mountains. But A chute was usually reinforced with logs on junctions to the industrial condition so that they could be opened often enough a log gets stuck both sides, uneven terrain was straightened channels and the field quickly for oncoming rafts and then closed halfway down. And if the with stone walls. The logs were pulled and irrigation. He also inspects again. following logs would smash manhandled – hard work indeed – into the the weirs every week, after into the stuck log – it hardly chutes and raced to the valley at high speed. One of the oldest statutes available for the all they need to function bears thinking about! A life-threatening job for the chute assistants Wolfach skippers' guild stems from the year perfectly every time. as the logs could jump from the chutes. 1527. This gives us insights on the establish- We men, as chute guides, have Chuting was done during the summer and In mid-summer, from July ment of the guild and its rights and duties: to stand at the side of the the winter as snow and ice made chuting to the middle of August, they “Each skipper in the guild is to pay a certain chutes and make sure we free easier. are overhauled completely sum, half of which is to be used by the guild every log immediately. Once as timber rafting is forbidden for providing the necessary river installations a log has reached its destina- There are few chute remains left as the during this time according (dikes, weirs, river bank installations), the tion in the valley a signal is timber used for construction was then used to the new rafting regulati- other half to be distributed equally between sounded and the next log is for other means or left to nature. Only the ons. The river banks are also the town and the sovereign!” launched. sandstone or granite walls can still be found maintained during this period. in the forests. This is why up to 100 m long Strangely enough, there is no evidence of But beware, should there ever A nice opportunity for a day and 4 m high walls or viaducts can still be raftig here in Sulzbach, at least no documents be a mistake! In the winter laborer like me to make some found on mountain slopes or in the forests are available. Timber transportation was these chutes turn into icy money during the raft-free for apparently no reason. possible by a chute next to the road. canals and the logs really pick period. up speed. This is when we find Such walls and viaducts are still in existence Rafting accident due to delayed opening of the weir So, there is always work to do, out if we had built the side- at Alpirsbach and Bad Rippoldsau. These at Schiltach (drawing by Heinrich Eyth, original in the except when there are floods. rafting museum Wolfach) walls high enough or if logs chutes were still in use up to 1950 when But then there is plenty of Excerpt from a geographical description of the Black will just shoot over the walls. modern transportation roads took their place. work after the floods to get Forest: “The people living near the Kinzig, especially in the vicinity of Wolfach, make their living from large You need a sixth sense to A timber chute made of logs the repairs done and every timber which they raft to the Rhine down the Kinzig know where to stand and to (Absbach in the forest near Bad Rippoldsau 1977) hand is needed – hands like to Strasbourg and make a considerable fortune.” (Sebastian Münster, “Cosmographia Universalis”, 1544) anticipate danger from an Demonstration chute in Bad Rippoldsau 1980 mine at any rate! oncoming log to make sure Remains of a sandstone wall which was used as substructure for a timber chute near Bad Rippoldsau After the big flood in the you can jump aside in time.” summer of 1851 all the rafts had been pulled from their moorings and all the bridges had been destroyed, and we had to work until October to repair all the damge.”

Timber chute in the winter (Bad Rippoldsau / forest Construction of a weir at the around 1950) Gießenteich in Wolfach (1895) Stop 27 Stop 28 What happened to the timber Raftsmen in demand that was not rafted? as international experts!

“We have to stop Of course, timber was not only transported “Everything I Compared with skippers and timber traders, again at the next saw- to the Rhine. The towns along the waterway know I pass on to my the raftsmen were true craftsmen. The mill and load some beams also had to be provided with timber and boy Uli so that he will once were day laborers, lumberjacks, craftsmen and planks to be taken to the firewood. Many old instructions and contracts become a fine raftsman and or farmers, who processed timber and lashed Rhine. also include a mandatory supply of firewood be respected by others. it to raft. They rafted along the Kinzig and to the population at large as well as to the delivered the timber to the Rhine. They But don't think that we export The same way my father sovereigns and authorities. The monasteries were not incorporated in associations. They all our timber! A large portion taught me everything I know, in Alpirsbach as well as Rippoldsau on the learnt their trade from their ancestors. Due remains in the Black Forest. and that was quite a lot. He Wolf traded with large volumes of firewood to their experience and knowledge of timber You would be amazed at the was a strong man, but a sick for use in the valley as well as for use in rafting they were in demand as experts amount of timber needed to man in old age, he was simply Strasbourg. and immigrant workers in other regions, for build a farmhouse! And the worn out. I only hope that my example, the southern Black Forest, Austria mines need pit props, at least Vast amounts of timber were used for the time is up before the same and even Romania (Transsylvania). the remaining mines in the many glassworks, melting furnaces, mines, happens to me. Black Forest. ironworks, for making charcoal, and, of The commercial aspects of marketing and Amassing a fortune to live course, for building purposes. financing was the task of the skippers guilds The big days of mining are off in old age is not possible in Alpirsbach, Schiltach and Wolfach. These over, same as the heyday of Paint mills, for example near Alpirsbach, for the likes of us. The skippers early guilds controlled the timber trade. Of charcoal burning. Charcoal required firewood to manufacture cobalt who own the rafts, yes, for course, the business had its ups and downs used to be a fuel in high pigment for “Delft blue” in Holland. Silver them life is a lot easier. and inherent financial risks. In the middle of demand, it was amazing mining was profitable and today former mine They can put plenty aside for the 19th century the end of timber rafting how much charcoal the shafts are open to the public as showcases. old age. And they can still was foreseeable, the skippers guild in Wolfach glassblowers used – and the do business even when they Tip: experience mining close-up in the went into liquidation. This also involved a melting furnaces and are frail. Kinzig valley: mines open to visitors “Grube bank in Frankfurt. ironworks! But demand is Wenzel” in Oberwolfach and “Segen Gottes” Some raftsmen have also decreasing more and more Kinzig valley skippers and raftsmen in contemporary in Haslach-Schnellingen, mining museum acquired another craft and and charcoal from the Black dress (Charles Lallemand, original painting in the rafting “Erzpoche” in Hausach, mineral stockpile of are bakers or butchers and the museum Wolfach) Forest is losing out to cheaper the mine “Grube Clara” in Wolfach-Kirnbach. like, this makes live easier for Group photo with Black Forest raftsmen in Transsylvania, coal from the Ruhr region. them in old age. But someone Romania (town archives Schiltach, 1871) Old Black Forest glassblowing and mining operation And this new-fangled demon, like me who rafts timber in Monumental raft with Schiltach raftsmen on the Ybbs (unknown artist) in Austria (photo Schiltach raftsmen) the railway which runs the summer and fells trees in Mining museum “Erzpoche” in Hausach (-village) through the Rhine valley is the winter – we can only pray also fired with coal – and I stay fit and in good health. some factories have steam Amen.” engines where water power is said to be insufficient. I tell you, the times are a'changing.”

Employees of the Schiltach “steam sawmill” (around 1920) Wolfach raftsmen (around 1865) Stop 29 Stop 30 Sawing, plank rafts and Border region vine poles Kinzig valley?

“Sawmills are Sawmills processed the rafted logs locally. “When I was a boy my father The numerous territorial dominions along growing like mushrooms What was not used for the local market, was told me there used to be a the Kinzig impeded the work of the raftsmen after a warm rain in the transported further as “load” and sold as customs house here. He was considerably over the centuries. Numerous region. Up ahead is the next far as Strasbourg. This is why rafts were also a raftsmen before 1810 when regulations between these houses governed one. And if I am not deceived, made from planks. the place was full of customs the traffic on the river and thus the taxes and I can see the lads of the houses. duties to be paid. Once a year the sawmill hands were allowed sawmill working on a raft of to run such a raft for their own account. There were countless baronies The monastery in Alpirsbach, the house of beams and planks. in the Kinzig valley then, I Fürtenberg, the Württembergers, the house Not only were there sawmills in Alpirsbach They are allowed to do that can't even tell you who many Baden, the Geroldseckers near Lahr, the (a museum today) and Wolfach, but once a year and take it down borders there were. And each Lichtenbergers of Willstätt, the Strasbourgers numerous small sawmills existed near the the Kinzig on their own one of these “authorities” and many other were involved in timber Kinzig, owned by farmers or the bigger account. I only hope they charged for passing, a real rafting. Disputes were difficult to avoid. forest farmers in the side valleys. Large don't cross my bow. pain my father told me. amounts of vine poles were produced for However, mutual intentions and the Rafting skills need to be the Rhine valley. Especially as there were acceptance that the Kinzig's water was the acquired and these once- always arguments about the only way to transport timber and thus earn There were seven sawmills below Wolfach, a-year raftsmen are best amount of tax to be paid if a money, eventually resulted in agreed tax with financial participation of the Wolfach avoided. Not that they enter customs officer calculated the and fee scales. skippers guild. Later on, a power plant a weir sideways and block amount of timber differently was erected which utilized the Kinzig's Here, at the entrance to Ippichen, it is said everyone's way! from the raftsmen or if the hydropower. A sawmill belonging to the that a customs house and chapel for raftsmen gentry simply decided to raise Then all one can do is help barony Fürstenberg and a cellulose factory once existed, however, there is no proof. the taxes without prior notice. and get that thing ship- were located on the other bank of the The Klausenbauer farm was erected in 1561. shape again. This could mean Kinzig, before Kirnbach. Meanwhile we can be glad The renovated farmhouse today serves as reaching our destination in that the business of the many farmed event location and overnight The sawmill Heinzelmann/Koch still exists today in Willstätt one day later and tax borders has come to an Wolfach/Halbmeil, depicted here around 1890 accommodation. A converted outbuilding we lose good money as we end and that we Schiltach could have been the remains of the Former “Sawmill of the Barony Fürstenberg” at raft for a lump sum. Wolfach/Kirnbach (photo town archive Wolfach) people can journey to raftsmens' chapel. But maybe the facade Whether we take two days or Willstätt without interrupti- also belonged to an old storage building. three, that's our business. on – one hassle less for me as Tip: Bartles farmhouse in the valley offers And after a journey of eight “commander” of the raft!” local snacks in an old converted farm store. days means there is nothing left for a beer, if you know Preserved facade after several conversions, what I mean.” presumed chapel for raftsmen or farm store. Historical map of the royal territories in the margraviate Baden (1771)

Raftsmen crossing the weir at the Plank raft of the “upper sawmill” at Schiltach “Wolfacher Kinzigflößer e.V.” (around 1885) Stop 31 Stop 32 Anyone who works hard, Wolfach in the days of needs to eat and drink well! timber rafting

“Soon we will have This is the smelters meadow. As the name “Soon we will be reaching A smaller dam weir used to exist here at come to an end of our implies, a smelting furnace used to be located the raft harbor of Wolfach the Brückenwaag pond. This was used as joint travels and I am really here to smelt the ore from the mines in which is the final destination collection point for incoming rafts from looking forward to a good jug the vicinity. And some of the chutes from the for many rafts. Often the Schiltach and Alpirsbach. The raft dock was of wine! surrounding mountains also ended here logs transported here from situated somewhat lower down in the on the water. A sawmill was operated on the Wolf to the Kinzig will be estuary of the Wolf into the Kinzig. The Unfortunately the flask on the other side and was later converted to a joined to larger units with rafts landed there or were dismantled before board is already empty. Uli weaving mill, today it is a metal-processing the rafts from Alpirsbach and being assembled to make larger rafts. needs to fix that quickly, and company. Schiltach. Luise has provided us with Today's raft park gives information on timber enough bread and bacon so The raftsmen obtained their food from local But we will continue a little rafting with information boards, a raft model that the food money paid by sources. Pork was taken along as smoked further before saying goodbye and a lashing kiln. the skipper will suffice for bacon, wine, beer, and later on, cider were to each other. And tomorrow The high embankment walls were erected as the return journey. the fashion. However, only wine was allowed I will continue to the Rhine protection against the frequent floods and on the rafts. Imagine a barrel of beer being without you. If we are lucky They say: who works hard ice drifts. A channel above the present town “tortured” on a raft! An attempt at growing our raft will reach our final needs to eat well. And drink, I bridge diverted water to the various small vines, to which the skippers of the Wolfach destination, the Willstätt weir hesitate to add. Nothing will businesses, such as a mill, and the open canal Vorstadtberg had been ordered, was rather before Kehl by the day after come of nothing – and lashing flowing through the town, the Riesner. short-lived. Wine was generally obtained tomorrow in the afternoon. and rafting sap your energy from the Vorberg region near the Rhine. There we will receive our pay The main street of the 900 year-old town is and make you sweat. and then start our return framed by Fürstenberg Castle and large Once the raftsmen around Martini had All through the year I look journey on foot with the merchant houses. The old town hall was delivered the last raft of the year in Willstätt forward to the big rafting rafting pole, axe and lashings rebuilt after a fire in 1893 and is an indicator at the lower Kinzig, they all conversed for event in November after the over our shoulders. for the riches of population – last not least the legendary raftsmens' “booze-up”. This last journey, where even the to timber rafting! In the Vorstadt (town was paid for by the skipper who did not What happens later with the skippers are not stingy. The suburb), a pine needle bath flourished on the skimp on a few extra liters of wine following timber is not our business. landlady in Willstätt adorns mountain slope until the late 19th century, a good rafting season. Maybe it will be sold to a city our hats with a small bouquet an attraction for many guests from home in the vicinity or rafted further of flowers and the skipper Traditional “bacon snack” with meats and sausages and abroad. down the Rhine, to Mannheim drives us around in the cart from local agriculture. or Cologne or even to Holland. Wolfach with raft dock, dominated by Fürstenberg Castle and we stop over at every pub Raftsmen near the Rhine dismantling a Kinzig raft or building a Rhine raft. (panoramic view by Adolf Neef around 1855) we visited during our rafting These Rhine rafts are massive Main street in Wolfach with old town hall, destroyed journeys and get a free drink monstrosities, you need a by fire 1892 (engraving by Robert Geissler 1870) everywhere. I wish it were completely different technique Mineral and pine needle baths in Wolfach – already a November!” than on our narrow shallow tourist attraction in the early 19th century (illustration 1880, original painting in Wolfach museum) rivers and streams in the Black Forest.”

Wooden drinking and storage Raftsmen returning home, vessel of raftsmen in the forest photographed by W. Hasemann and on the raft, the “legel” (around 1888) Stop 33 Stop 34 Wolfach the final stop? Not by far!

“My grandfather on From here on the timber to be sold moved “Folks, this is where we reach the end of my father's side of the family down the river to Haslach, Gengenbach, our joint travels from Alpirsbach. I hope I still lived through the big days Offenburg, past Kehl into the Alsace and was able to entertain you well enough on of the Rhine rafts when there Strasbourg. The large logs, the Dutchmen, this journey and give you insights on the was still an abundance of went to Holland along the Rhine where they customs of raftsmen and everything to do ‘Dutchmen’. were used for building ships. with timber rafting.

He even hired aboard one of Some of the skippers, the trade merchants, You may have noticed: I understand timber these Rhine rafts. Floating even managed to travel to Basle, Strasbourg, rafting, you can't fool me on that score. villages further down the Cologne and Holland. They learned about And although I am not the youngest any Rhine he called them, with different cultures and traditions. They more I still have the energy to stand at an exclusive wooden hut for brought back paintings from Holland and the front of the raft and navigate it safely the raft's captain and control introduced the Christmas tree, to give some through weirs and dangers. And one day towers and sheds for the examples. Uli will also be able to follow in my foot- animals which were slaugh- steps, I will teach my boy everything he The railway came to Wolfach in 1878. This tered en route as well as with needs to know. forced the skippers and their raftsmen to quarters for a crew of five A smaller raft casting off in Wolftal finally give up their business. The Wolfach And, honoured guests, before we go our (original picture in the Wolfach museum) hundred men. skippers had already gone into liquidation separate ways, may I remind you kindly of Today, the Rhine rafts are with a short spell of recovery. Floods also our agreement – you know, the jug of wine nowhere as big, but still big destroyed many of the river installations. you promised me. Goodbye and I wish you enough and I do feel the itch a pleasant stay in Wolfach, the town of Fürstenberg Castle, erected in the 14/15 to travel on one of these rafts raftsmen and skippers. Your Staiger Johann, century, is located here, near the former raft and see the cities along the raftsman, from Schiltach, born 1810 – now dock on the Kinzig. Following numerous Rhine, to raft through the forty-five years ago. Goodbye!” conversions it protected virtually the entire infamous ‘Binger hole’ with valley against intruders. Today it houses its many tales of incidents, administration departments, a castle chapel The Nature Park Black Forest Central/North, right through to Dordrecht and the local history and timber rafting the largest nature park in Germany, is a paradise in Holland. Karlsruhe museum. The arduous work of previous for everyone who wants to experience the

It would be nice to see generations is presented here against a Black Forest and its nature actively. Pforzheim something of the world like historical background. Rastatt The aim of the nature park is to preserve the skippers and timber Baden-Baden Arrival of a large Rhine timber raft in Dordrecht harbor – the beautiful and intact Black Forest traders for whom it is no big timber for ship building in Holland countryside. At the same time the deal to do business abroad. (copper engraving approx. 1785) Calw region is active in sustainability Who knows, maybe one day Wolfach railway station with timber stockpile near the and supports projects which I will make my dream come rail tracks leading to Freudenstadt (around 1895) create a balance between Naturpark-Haus auf true …” Local history and timber rafting museum in the castle dem Ruhestein with historic displays and documents, not only from the nature preservation rafting period. and recreation, for example, Offenburg Freudenstadt

the timber rafting trail. Lossburg You can find further Alpirsbach leisure activities on the Schenkenzell Wolfach homepage of the nature Schiltach Rottweil park. Just click: Large Rhine raft at Unkel www.naturparkschwarzwald.de (copper engraving by J. Ziegler)