E Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) Is Published 10 Times Each Year by People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 Upcountry Publishing, 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520

Dear GEMüTLICHKEIT Subscriber The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria & Switzerland Trip Planning, Part V: Currency Exchange Of the approximately 2,200 pages MURNAU of the Gemut.com website, the one “We came here together, on a brief In the summer of 1908, Russian- that draws the fifth most visitors is visit, for the first time in 1908, in June, born painter Wassily Kandinsky a page on currency exchange. That’s and we were both delighted with the town and his German pupil and mistress, understandable. To many travelers and its surroundings.” Gabriele Münter, discovered Mur- the money changing business, one in – Gabriele Münter nau on a day trip from Munich. The which the “house” always has the estled in the foothills of the couple fell in love with the town’s advantage, is mysterious and confus- Bavarian Alps, Murnau is the bright colors and the surrounding ing. In some cases there’s even a bit N center of a region that has landscape and, in the fall, returned to of sleight-of-hand involved…more on come to be known as the “Blue Land.” live. With them came Russian paint- that later. It lies on a sweeping green-gold moor, ers Alexej Jawlensky and Marianne There are several issues to consid- and near it the blue waters of a lake von Werefklin. Münter purchased er when changing dollars to euros or —the Staffelsee—sparkle. Classical- a hillside house with a view of the francs or forints, but the central one is town’s onion-domed St. Nikolaus by Phyllis Meras style houses - pink, the exchange rate. To make a dollars- green, gold, and Church and of the castle that today is to-euros decision without taking into blue – with gaily decorated facades, the Schlossmuseum. account the rate of exchange—or line its cobblestoned Marktstrasse. The 42-year-old Kandinsky and assuming one seller’s exchange rate is It is an ideal base for visiting many 32-year-old Gabriele were soon living the same as the next—can cost more sites in the region, including Linder- in a little yellow house that neigh- than just a few dollars. hof, Neuschwanstein, and Hohen- bors called the “Russians’ House.” I find it amazing that there re- schwangau castles. The town itself Kandinsky painted the sides of the mains any difference of opinion at was the backdrop for one of the im- stairs with pictures of horsemen and th all about the best way to deal with portant artistic movements of the 20 the couple filled their rooms with money while traveling in Europe. As century—The Blue Rider. I see it the cheapest, most convenient, Continued on page 3… and safest way is to carry an ATM card and for daily “walking around” money get a couple of hundred euros German Wine Festivals as needed from Europe’s ubiquitous veryone loves a party and the the road, or even closer. Skilled tast- ATM machines. For larger transac- Germans are no exception, es- ers can distinguish not only among tions, such as hotel bills, use a credit E pecially when food and drink wines from the Ahr, Rheingau, Fran- card. are involved. Public partying is a conia, Pfalz, and Baden regions, but Let’s take a look at the ATM’s tradition in Germany, from Munich’s also identify the differences between “competitors:” annual Oktoberfest beer bash to more wines from adjacent vineyards. than 1,250 wine festivals held through- Traveler’s Checks Although Germany exports wine, out the country every year. much of its production never leaves Because they can be replaced if Germany is the eighth largest the country, and is usually consumed lost or stolen, old-fashioned trav- wine-producing country in the world, not far from where the wine was eler’s checks are indeed safe but their known for its excel- made. A fun way to sample these lo- by Sharon Hudgins downside is overwhelming. Even if lent white wines and cal wines is to attend one of the many the checks are euro-denominated they an increasing number of reds. Wine in wine festivals held annually in each are often difficult to cash (it seems Germany comes from 13 designated region. Most occur between March to be a rule in Europe that banks are wine regions and each has its own and the end of harvest, in late Octo- always closed when you need cash character, depending on the grape va- ber. Some are quiet little fests in small and, because of wide-spread t-checks rieties, the climate and terrain, and the villages, held on only one day. Others fraud, many European banks simply skill of the winemakers. Even wines Continued on page 10… won’t deal with them). More im- from a small microclimate within a Exchange rates as of 6/4/12 portant, the exchange rate is lousy. specified wine region will differ from 1 euro = $1.25 American Express traveler’s checks those made just a kilometer down Swiss franc = $1.04 Continued on page 2… 1 gal. diesel, Germany=$6.74 www.gemut.com June 2012 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com like a credit card. It’s secure, convenient earn American Airlines AAdvantage DEAR SUBSCRIBER Continued from page 1 and can be easily replenished, but fees miles and with American Express I get are high and the exchange rate is not the Membership Rewards points which can be purchased through Bank of inter-bank rate. The main players are can be easily transferred to several America. On June 7, their price to Visa’s TravelMoney Card, the Trav- frequent flyer programs. In addition, purchase one euro was $1.3246. Thus elex/MasterCard Cash Passport and the they are convenient, I have a record of €3,000 cost $3,974. Use your bank’s Pass from American Express. each purchase, and often don’t have ATM card, however, and you get the to pay until several weeks after the Chip and Pin Credit Cards inter-bank exchange rate of about actual transaction date. Most impor- $1.256, making the €3,000 cost $3,768, a A small advantage to the Travel- tant, of course, is I get the best possible difference in your pocket of $206. Some Money Card is that it contains a chip exchange rate, the key element in cur- banks, notably Capital One, don’t which, unlike 99-percent of U.S.-issued rency swap. credit cards, works in European credit charge for overseas ATM withdrawals, However, I could avoid the two card machines, which may be your but many do. The range is about $1 to or three-percent fees, have credit card only option where the purchase is $6 per transaction. The European bank convenience and still get the interbank entirely automated such as at 100-per- whose ATM you use may also levy exchange rate. Capital One and several cent self-service gas stations, parking a small fee, though if your bank is a other credit card issuers (see www. lots, toll roads, and rail station ticket member of the Global ATM Alliance nerdwallet.com for a list) don’t charge sales kiosks. Our magnetic strip credit you won’t be charged at member bank extra for foreign transactions. Some cards are still accepted by ATMs and at overseas. As to my sleight-of-hand readers complain about Capital One’s hotels, restaurants, and retail outlets. comment, what else does one call it poor customer service (clueless phone However, you may have to insist that when currency sellers’ ads tout ”free” support personnel and long waits on the clerk or waiter manually punch in or “no fee” traveler’s checks but fail to hold) but for the traveler who will rack your card number. mention the exchange rate? up $5,000 in overseas charges, a no-fee Several major U.S. card issuers Purchasing Euros credit card will save as much as $150. have recently introduced “chip and Continued on page 12… Some travelers simply buy a pin” credit cards, though you can quantity of euros and carry the cash expect to pay an annual fee. Among Using Gemütlichkeit to Europe. That might be handy but them are: U.S. Bank’s FlexPerks Visa, • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Dis- counts are often available for longer stays. it’s neither safe nor economical. One British Airways Visa, J.P. Morgan Se- Travelex • All hotel prices include breakfast unless popular online seller is . Their lect Visa, Hyatt Visa, and Citibank’s otherwise noted. exchange rate for the same €3,000 is a Executive/AAdvantage MasterCard. • Local European telephone area codes whopping $1.40 making your out-of- carry the “0” required for in-country dialing. Credit Cards To phone establishments from outside the pocket a tidy $4,200. That’s $432 more country, such as from the USA, do not dial than if you used an ATM card. Wells Like many travelers I carry credit the first “0”. Fargo at $1.32 is better but you are still cards that charge for foreign transac- Back Issues Website $192 ahead of the game with the ATM. tions. On a €300 euro hotel bill Ci- Many back issues are available free to subscribers tibank Visa nicks me three-percent—€9 Pre-paid Travel Cards at www.gemut.com. To access the issues, enter the or about $11.25. With Amex it’s password published in this space each month. Go to The idea here is the traveler is is- two-percent— €6/$7.50. So why do http://www.gemut.com/csub.html sued a card pre-loaded with foreign cur- I stick with these cards? With Visa I Password: rnau rency. It is presented for payment just

Vol. 26, No. 5 Hotel Restaurant Rating Key June 2012 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria & Switzerland Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers:Publishers: RobertRobert H. H. & & Elizabeth Elizabeth S. S. BestorBestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Editor:Editor: RobertLaura H. Bestor Riedel Contributors:Writers: Doug Linton, C. Fischer,Tom Bross, R. Holliday, Margie Jim Gibson,Johnson Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Web Master: Karsten Horn, Sharon Hudgins,Paul T. Phyllis Merschdorf Meras Adequate 4 - 7 Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Unacceptable 0 - 3 SubscriptionSubscriber Travel Dept: Services: Andy Bestor,Kurt Laura Steffans Riedel SubscriberGemut.com Webmaster:Travel Services: Andy Bestor,Charles Laura Brockman Riedel Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 10 times each year by People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 UpCountry Publishing, 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521-6722 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail travel@ Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 gemut.com. Web site: www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $69 per year Guestrooms 30% Average Value 9 - 11 for 10 issues, $49 via e-mail. While every effort is made to provide correct information, the publishers can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: Facilities/Restaurant 20% A Rip-Off 0 - 4 Gemütlichkeit, 288 Ridge Road., Ashland OR 97520

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MURNAU Murnau Basics as The Blue Rider art. There are also documents and pictures relating to Continued from page 1 Population: 12,000 the life of the 20th-century playwright, hand-painted furniture. On the walls, Elevation: 2,264 feet (690 meters) Odon von Horvath, who lived for a Münter hung Hinterglasmalerei (re- Visitor information: Tourist Informa- time in Murnau. (Schlossmuseum, verse paintings on glass). Kandinsky tion Murnau/Tourist Consortium Schlosshof 4-5, tel. +49 (0) 8841/47 62- liked their bright colors and simplicity DAS BLAUE LAND, Kohlgruber Str. 01, www.schlossmuseum-murnau. which reminded him of the religious 1, 82418 Murnau am Staffelseetel, de. Open daily 10am-5pm, except art of his birthplace. Creating them 08841/61 41-0, fax 08841/61 41-21 Monday. Guided tours June 1-October had been a popular cottage industry [email protected], 31 on Saturdays at 2pm.) in 18th century Murnau and soon both [email protected], www.mur- Münter and Kandinsky found them- More art from the period can be nau.de, www.theblueland.de selves painting glass art pieces. seen at the Franz Marc Museum in Driving distances: nearby Kochel am See which displays Inspired by the clear mountain Garmisch-Partenkirchen 25 km/15 mi personal writings and objects of the air where colors were brighter and Kochel am See 17 km/10 mi artist as well as paintings by his col- the light stronger, Münter gave up Lindenhof 30 km/19 mi leagues of The Blue Rider. (Franz Marc her Impressionist painting style and Munich 70 km/43 mi Museum, Franz Marc Park 8-10, 82431 began painting boldly. Kandinsky, Neuschwanstein 50 km/31 mi Kochel am See, www.franz-marc-mu- overwhelmed by the light that now Oberammergau 25 km/15 mi seum.de. Open daily except Monday, surrounded him out-of-doors, painted Nearest airport: 10am-5pm in winter and until 6pm “unhindered by the attempt to repro- April through October.) duce nature,” according to Münter. Munich 71 km/44 mi The couple painted pictures of their Rail connections: Hourly train con- Murnau remains much as it was garden, the stones in the cemetery, the nections from Munich, Innsbruck, in those days of the excited, inspired church, the lake, the moor, and the and Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Blue Rider artists. There is automo- houses of the town. Unfortunately, bile traffic, of course, but the heart of Kandinsky’s new non-objective Mur- Macke were killed, Kandinsky and the market town, the Obermarkt is a nau paintings did not meet with ac- Münter split and Kandinsky returned pedestrian mall. Facades of the his- claim from either the public or the to Russia. Münter, seeking another art toric houses are still the happy colors critics. Only a young, Munich-born environment where she would thrive, of Kandinsky’s and Münter’s day. artist who had moved out to the coun- moved first to Stockholm; then to Ber- They are sometimes decorated with try championed his work. Franz Marc, lin and Paris before she returned to the ornamental figures. Munich architect had moved to Sindelsdorf near Mur- little yellow house in Murnau in 1931. Emmanuel von Seidl built a villa in th nau, and he and Kandinsky became She remained there until she died in Murnau in the early years of the 20 great friends. 1962. century and oversaw a cheerful embel- lishment of the old facades as well as In time, along with other artists Today, the Münter House is a the renovation of the little 17th-centu- disenchanted with the staid Munich magnet for art lovers. It has been re- ry Maria Hilf Church (the Church of art scene, they organized their own stored and contains some of the color- Our Lady of Perpetual Succor) on the show in Munich in December 1911 and ful furniture the couple painted and Untermarkt. Von Seidl also designed called it Erste Ausstellung der Redaktion examples of their painted glass. Much an English-style park that bears his Der Blaue Reiter (First exhibition of of Kandinsky’s early work survived name, and its winding paths make the editorial board of the Blue Rider), The Third Reich and the World War lovely exploring on a sunny day. Back although there was no publication of in the cellar of the house. (The Münter streets, too, can be interesting. Onion- that name at that time. They made up House, Kottmueller Allee 6, tel. +49 domed, Baroque St. Nikolaus Church the name Blue Rider, Kandinsky said, 8841/62-88-80, www.murnau.de/en/ is particularly known for its stucco because they both liked blue; Marc mnter-haus-1_p2. Open daily, except work and Rococo altar. liked horses and he liked riders. Monday, 2-5pm.) Murnau began as a Roman settle- They held a second Blue Rider Münter gave most of her work ment in the 4th century. It was in the show in early 1912 and a Blue Rider al- and Kadinsky’s to Munich (now on 13th century that its fortified castle manac of writings by artists for artists display at the Lenbachhaus Gallery), was built and a century later, Murnau was produced. The public response but some pieces remain in Murnau’s was granted market rights. A fresco to both was enthusiastic. Along with Schlossmuseum. The Schlossmuseum of Ludwig the Bavarian who gave the work by Münter and Kandinsky and also tells the history of Murnau’s town those rights, adorns the 1842 their friends, Marc, Jawlensky and von moor, its products - feather flowers, Rathaus on the Untermarkt. Because Werefkin, were paintings by Henri reverse glass paintings, candles, wax it lay on the trade route between Italy Rousseau, Robert Delauney, Albert tapers, gingerbread, honey pastries, and Augsburg, many trades people Bloch, and August Macke. But then and mead - and shows the work of and craft workers had businesses in World War I broke out and Marc and 19th-century Murnau painters as well Gemütlichkeit 3 June 2012 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com the center of town, while its farms, of age in honor of St. Leonard, each outdoor terrace for summer dining. course, were outside. Situated as it is November 6 when local horses are Rooms, all with showers and TV, are in the foothills of the Bavarian Alps it paraded through the center of town to furnished in modern style. Many have became an appealing summer holiday the chapel at neighboring Froschhau- balconies. th th spot in the late 19 and early 20 cen- sen where the animals are blessed. Daily Rates: Singles €62-78.50, dou- turies. bles €116-140. Before artists discovered the area, Murnau Hotels Contact: Hotel Ludwig, Am Seidlpark, this was Bavarian King Ludwig II’s 82418 Murnau, tel. +49/8841-61-59-0; country, with the Mad King’s beloved Hotel Post fax +49/8841-61-591 00; seidlpark@ Castle Neuschwanstein only 31 miles This 16-room hotel that was Lud- hotel-ludwig.de, www.hotel-ludwig.de. away, and his Linderhof Castle even wig II’s favorite resting place has Rating: Quality 14/20, Value 17/20 closer. Indeed, Murnau was often a occupied its Obermarkt site since the stop for the king on his way to Linder- 17th century. The rooms are cozy and Hotel Angerbräu hof from Munich and the Hotel Post traditional. Its historic past is reflected A decade ago, this 27-room heart- where he always stayed still receives in a cabinet of tin soldiers and old uni- of-town hotel, with a history s guests. It is said that Ludwig, who forms on display at the foot of its stairs dating back to the 17th century, ’ Editor died a mysterious death by drown- (there is no elevator), and in copies of was renovated to become a Choice ing when he was only 41, was so fond the portraits from Ludwig I’s Gallery very modern three-star hos- of Murnau that he intended to build of Beauties at Schloss Nymphenburg in telry. The views of the town and coun- another of his castles on an island in Munich that decorate the breakfast tryside from its windows are superb. the Staffelsee. Every August 20 his room. All rooms have shower or bath. All rooms have showers or baths, TV, birthday is celebrated in town with a Daily Rates: Singles €59-64, doubles and internet connection. There is a parade and band concert. €98-126. wellness center with a sauna and a Other festive events in Murnau are Contact: Hotel Post Garni, Obermarkt solarium. The staff is welcoming, and at Corpus Christi in the spring when 1, 82418 Murnau, tel. +49/8841-48- restaurant, Fifty Fifty, serves interna- a parade of boats goes out to an island 78-00; fax +49/841-48-79-13, info@ tional fare. in the lake where a Mass is celebrated; hotel-post-murnau.de, www.hotel- Daily Rates: Singles from €65, dou- the annual Christmas Market in the post-murnau.de. bles from €98 Obermarkt; and Leonhardi, a pilgrim- Rating: Quality 13/20, Value 17/20 Contact: Hotel Angerbräu, Untermarkt 44, 82418 Murnau, tel. +49/8841-62- Key Websites for the Traveler Griesbrau zu Murnau 58-76; [email protected], www.angerbraeu.de. • www.gemut.com Gateway site for It was in this 26-room hotel that travelers to Germanic Europe, including car Rating: Quality 17/20, Value 17/20 rental, rail passes, hotel bookings, travel tips, Kandinsky and Münter and their and past issues (free access to back issues for Munich artist friends stayed in 1908 Alpenhof Murnau subscribers; see log-on info on page 2). and ecstatically painted the views • www.viamichelin.com The Michelin This 71-room super-luxury hotel, database of hotels and restaurants, plus great through their respective windows. a 20-minute walk from the center of interactive trip planning tools Today, rooms in this three-star hotel town sits on the Murnauer Moos • www.travelessentials.com Guide- are simple and gemütlich, with cable —Murnau’s endless moor—and all books, maps, travel accessories, luggage, all TV and internet access. All rooms have at 10 percent off for subscribers. Use dis- rooms and suites have terraces that count code gemut2012. showers. look out to the mountains. Room décor • maps.google.com Amazing map re- Daily Rates: Singles €50-65, doubles is modern, but with Bavarian touches. source. Driving & walking. Zoom in-out. Great €70-99, studio €110. There is a wellness center with a spa, detail city & country. Satellite & terrain views. • bahn.hafas.de/bin/query.exe/ Contact: Griesbrau zu Murnau, sauna, and indoor and outdoor pools. en German rail website, with train schedules Obermarkt 37, 82418 Murnau, tel. The sun terrace has views of both the throughout Europe, as well as Germany. +49/8841-14-22; fax +49/8841-39-13; Alps and the moor, the largest nature • www.sbb.ch/en/ Swiss and Euro- [email protected], ww.griesbraeu.de. preserve in central Europe. Arrange- pean rail schedules Rating: Quality 13/20, Value 16/20 ments can be made for nearby golfing. • www.ski-europe.com Top Web re- source for skiers with much info on Alpine resorts Guests have a choice of two restau- • www.myswitzerland.com Website Hotel Ludwig rants—the gourmet Reiterzimmer of Switzerland’s national tourist authority with one Michelin star, and the sim- • www.germany-tourism.de Ger- The location of this 60-room, three- pler Hoffman’s Restaurant. In winter, many’s national tourist authority star hotel on the park that Emmanuel hearty Bavarian fare is offered in the • www.austria.info/us Austria’s Seidl designed, is charming, though cozy Alpenstuber. national tourist authority a bit far from the town center. The • www.historicgermany.com Web- 30-year-old hostelry, recently refur- Daily Rates: Singles €147-222, dou- site for an alliance of historic German cities bished, has a spa with a sauna and bles from €195-297, apartments, mai- • www.thetravelinsider.info Info on elec- sonette, and suites from €312. tronics for travelers — cell phones, computers, etc. an indoor pool, a restaurant, and an

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36 block RFID signals and keep your personal info $5. safe. (Reg. $5.95) $5.35 - $26.99 (Reg. $5.95 - $29.99) Get the Latest Rail Prices at Gemut.com Austria-Czech Pass Germany-France Pass buying rail passes in 2012 Adult Saver* Youth 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1st Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl Because of currency fluctuation, pass 4 days in 2 months $264 $225 $173 4 days in 2 months $429 $388 $388 $351 $301 Avg Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 36 $ 30 $ 23 5 days in 2 months $475 $428 $428 $386 $332 prices change frequently. Prices listed 6 days in 2 months $520 $469 $469 $416 $367 CZECH-GERMANY Pass 1 Adult Saver* Youth 8 days in 2 months $609 $550 $550 $478 $429 here are approximations. At www. 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl 10 days in 2 months $699 $631 $631 $550 $496 5 days in 2 months $415 $342 $340 $293 $293 gemut.raileuorpe.com you can se- 6 days in 2 months $463 $380 $378 $324 $324 Germany-Switzerland Pass curely buy the listed passes, as well as 8 days in 2 months $537 $447 $445 $388 $388 1 Adult Saver* Youth 10 days in 2 months $618 $517 $515 $450 $450 1st Cl. 1st Cl 2nd Cl many others, plus book individual tick- 5 days in 2 months $453 $386 $318 EUROPEAN EAST PASS 6 days in 2 months $499 $424 $351 ets. Or, for current prices, and to place Austria, Czech Republic, Hungary, Poland, Slovakia 8 days in 2 months $588 $504 $415 5 days in 1 month $315 (1Cl) $217 (2Cl) 10 days in 2 months $680 $582 $478 a rail pass order, call 800-521-6722x3. Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $38 $32 ITALY Rail Pass 1 Adult Saver* Youth We also book city-to-city tickets by FRANCE RAlL PASS Adults Senior Youth 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 3 days in 2 months $279 $228 $239 $196 $186 phone but charge a service fee. For Eu- 3 days in 1 month $291 $235 $254 $209 $177 Avg Extra Rail Day $33 $27 $28 $23 $22 Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 43 $37 $37 $ 31 $27 ropean timetables go to www.bahn.de. Austria-Switzerland Pass FRANCE SAVER PASS 2 Adults* Adults Saver* Youth EURAILPASS 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 3 days in 1 month $248 $202 4 days in 2 months $404 $344 $284 15 consecutive days $750 $638 $489 Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 37 $ 31 Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 44 $38 $31 21 consecutive days $967 $823 $630 1 month $1191 $1014 $776 FRANCE-ITALY PASS SWISS SAVERPASS & SWISS PASS 2 months $1680 $1429 $1094 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1 Adult Saver* Youth 3 months $2073 $1763 $1349 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl 1st 2nd 1st 2nd 1st 2nd 4 days in 2 months $401 $343 $343 $293 $261 Class Class Class Class Class Class EURAIL FLEXIPASS 1 Adult Saver* Youth 5 days in 2 months $447 $382 $382 $324 $293 4 consec. days $493 $308 $417 $262 $370 $231 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 6 days in 2 months $493 $420 $420 $356 $321 8 consec. days $711 $445 $604 $377 $533 $334 10 days in 2 months $885 $753 $576 7 days in 2 months $540 $461 $461 $393 $351 15 consec. days $862 $538 $732 $458 $647 $404 15 days in 2 months $1161 $988 $756 8 days in 2 months $590 $501 $501 $426 $382 22 consec. days $993 $620 $844 $529 $744 $466 EURAIL SELECTPASS 9 days in 2 months $634 $539 $539 $458 $413 1 month $1093 $683 $930 $581 $821 $513 10 days in 2 months $680 $578 $578 $491 $443 3 adjoining countries 1 Adult Saver* Youth SWISS SAVER FLEXIPASS & SWISS FLEXIPASS 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. France-Switzerland Pass 2 or more Adults* 1 Adult 5 days in 2 months $475 $404 $310 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1st 2nd 1st 2nd 6 days in 2 months $524 $447 $342 1st Cl. 1st Cl 2nd Cl Class Class Class Class 8 days in 2 months $620 $527 $404 4 days in 2 months $426 $363 $301 3 days in 1 month $399 $251 $470 $294 10 days in 2 months $718 $611 $468 Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 46 $40 $33 4 days in 1 month $486 $303 $570 $356 GERMAN RAILPASS 5 days in 1 month $561 $351 $659 $412 4 adjoining countries 1 Adult Saver* Youth 6 days in 1 month $637 $398 $751 $469 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 1 Adult Youth Twin Pass* 5 days in 2 months $531 $452 $347 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 2nd Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. SWISS CARD 6 days in 2 months $580 $494 $378 3 days in 1 month $344 $263 $210 $265 $194 1 month - 1 round trip $319 (1-Cl) $216 (2-Cl) 8 days in 2 months $651 $575 $440 Avg. Extra Rail Day (7) $ 42 $28 $15 $29 $21 plus 50% discount on rail tickets 10 days in 2 months $772 $657 $503 AUSTRIA-Germany Pass SWISS TRANSFER TICKET 5 adjoining countries 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1 month - 1 round trip $241 (1-Cl) $151 (2-Cl) 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl (*Prices per person, based on two or more traveling together at all 5 days in 2 months $585 $498 $381 5 days in 2 months $424 $366 $366 $312 $313 6 days in 2 months $634 $539 $414 times. **Junior & Youth fares apply only to passengers under 26. 6 days in 2 months $467 $399 $399 $343 $343 Where senior fares are offered, 60 is qualifying age. Children 4-11 pay 8 days in 2 months $731 $622 $476 8 days in 2 months $556 $475 $475 $409 $410 10 days in 2 months $824 $701 $537 10 days in 2 months $648 $551 $551 $475 $474 half the adult fare including Saverpass fares except Switzerland where 15 days in 2 months $1045 $889 $681 kids under 16 travel free with a parent.) Germany-Benelux Pass AUSTRIAN RAILPASS 1 Adult Saver* Youth IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT PRICES: The US dollar prices on this page are 1st Cl 2nd Cl Child 1st Child 2nd 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl based on the euro and are subject to change with currency fluctuation. Pass 3 days in 1 month $236 $166 $120 $85 5 days in 1 month $445 $336 $336 $272 $272 orders will be processed in dollars, but amounts charged may vary from Avg Extra Rail Day (5 max.) $27 $19 $14 $9 Avg. Extra Rail Day (5 max.) $46 $35 $36 $27 $27 prices shown on this page. Product # Days 1st/2nd Class Circle one Passenger Name (First and Last as on Passport) Country of Residence Price

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Special Considerations (Specify countries for countries Method of Payment (Visa MC AmEx Diners) chosen for Selectpass, additional rail days, etc.) Card #:______Exp. Date______Est. total amount: $______Name ______TERMS & CONDITIONS: Prices on this page sub- Order online at ject to change. Canceled orders refunded 85% of Street______total charge. Handling fee for cancels is $25. City______State____ Zip______gemut.raileuorpe.com Fax form to 541-488-8468 or mail to: 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520 Daytime Phone______U.S. Depart. Date______or phone 800-521-6722 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com Cruising through Europe GemütlichkeitGemütlichkeit Special Special Offer Offer SubscriberSubscriber DiscountsDiscounts On 2012 EuropeanEuropean River Holiday Cruises River Cruises ChooseChoose from dozens ofof itinerariesitineraries and and sailings sailings. Here Here are are just just a few:a few: CENCHANTINGlassic Christmas DANUBE Markets 8 daysdays, NürnbergBudapest to to Frankfurt. Passau From From $2199* DDANUBEanube DISCOVERYHoliday Markets 8 daysdays, BudapestVienna to to Nürnberg Passau. From From $2199*  EurRHINEop DISCOVERYean Holiday Markets 8 daysdays, ViennaNürnberg to Nürnberg. to Basel FromFrom $2199*  Early booking GrCASTLESand cALONGhrist THEmas RHINE & New Year’s cruidiscountsse as much 13 days days, Basel Nürnberg to Amsterdam to Budapest. From From $3999 as $900 per PaLEGENDARYrisian W RHINEinter & H MOSELoliday couple 8 days, days Paris Amsterdam to Paris. Fromto Basel $1999 From  EUROPEAN JEWELS on Rhine Holiday Markets Additional discounts 8 days, days Paris Buapest to Paris. to Amsterdam From $2249* From  Gemut Readers EUROPEAN SERERANDE for Big Savings for Early Booking These 2013 Cruises select 2012 cruises days Vienna to Amsterdam From  LEASTERNegenda EUROPEry Rhin EXPLORERe & Mosel 13 daysdays, ViennaAmsterdam to Bucharest to Basel. From From $4199**  EurPARISo p&ea EUROPEANn Seren RIVERade ROMANCE 13 days days, Paris Vienna to toNürnberg Amsterdam. From From  $4399** Some 2 for 1 deals on GrPARISan &d THEDANUB HEARTE & OF PR EUROPEAGUE bookings prior to 17 daysdays, ParisPrague to to Vienna Belgrade. From From  $5899** GRAND EUROPEAN DISCOVERY August 31, 2009 Gran ddays Eur Baselop toea Viennan Riv Fromer Voyage 27 days, Amsterdam to Istanbul. From $9299*** GRAND EUROPEAN SERERANDE Gra nd days Eur Amsterdamopean toH IBucharestGHLIGH FromTS  22 days, Belgrade to Basel. From $7899*** GRAND EUROPEAN EXPLORER (* $300 days per couple Basel discount to Bucharest in select categories From if paid in full at the time of booking- Expires June 30) (** $2000 per couple in select categories if paid in full at the time of booking - Expires June 30) (*** $2400 per couple in select categories if paid in full at the time of booking - Expires June 30) When you sail with Uniworld When you sail with Uniworld • Shore excursions included • Email available stay in touch • Excursions included • Email available - stay in touch • Nonsmoking ships • Small ship ambiance ( to guests) • Non-smoking ships • Small ship ambiance (100 to 138 guests) • English language only • Hotelstyle beds • English language only • Hotel-style beds • Unpack only once • Terry cloth robes • Unpack only once • Terrycloth robes • Most deluxe ships in Europe • Satellite TV in cabins • Most deluxe ships in Europe • Satellite TV in cabins • Europe’s youngest fleet • Fitness Center • Europe’s youngest fleet • Fitness Center

ForFor free free video catalog and catalogor to book or to space book phonespace phoneGemütlichkeit Gemütlichkeit ® 800-521-6722 x 2press option Gemütlichkeit 8 June 2012 “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com www.gemut.com Contact: Alpenhof Murnau, Ra- tel. +4988-46-93-00. Fifty Fifty maschstrasse 8, 82418 Murnau, tel. Rating: Quality 17/20, Value 17/20 Both traditional and Mediterra- +49/8841-491-0; fax +49/8841-491-100; nean cooking are offered in this mod- Gasthof Aehndl [email protected], www. ern restaurant in the Hotel Angerbräu. alpenhof-murnau.com. One of the oldest beer gardens in Spanish tapas and Italian spaghetti Rating: Quality 17/20, Value 16/20 Murnau, Gasthof Aehndl’s setting are among the less pricey items on the under the chestnut trees and on the menu where dishes start at €5. Open Am Eichholz ’s edge of the Murnauer Moos daily from 11am to 11pm. Galerie & Art-Hotel is almost unsurpassed. Before Editor Choice There are just four rooms and one or after a meal, diners should Contact: Fifty Fifty Restaurant, Un- apartment at this elegant hotel-garni not miss the opportunity for a walk on termarkt 44, tel. +49/8841-99-89-560. www.angerbraeu.de. built in 1919 by the present ’s the green-gold moor. Dishes are typi- Rating: Quality 13/20, Value 14/20 owner’s architect grandfather, Editor cally Bavarian and feature innards— Choice a professor of city planning in sweetbreads, brains, liver, etc., are a Gasthof Post Berlin. An artist herself, owner Gina specialty. Prices start around €6 for a There’s a splendid view of mead- Feder has decorated each room in main course. Open everyday except ows and the foothills of the Bavarian modern style and her art work, or art Thursday from 10am-10pm. Alps from this cozy, countryside res- painted by friends, decorates the walls. Contact: Gasthof Aehndl, Ramsach 2, taurant with a spacious beer garden The hotel has its own gourmet restau- tel +49/88-41-5241. about a 10-minute drive from Murnau. rant nearby. Rating: Quality 16/20, Value 17/20 Sometimes a band plays in summer. Daily Rates: Doubles from €120. Auszeit The menu is Bavarian and prices range Contact: Am Eichholz 21, 82418 Mur- from €8.50-14.50 for a main course. nau, tel. +49/8841-5863; fax +49/8841- Some of Murnau’s best food is of- Open from noon to 2pm and 6 to 9pm. 625-451; [email protected], ameich- fered at this pleasant, modern restau- Closed Wednesday and Thursday. holz.de. rant that features both local and Med- Contact: Familie Lampl, Dorftrasse 26, Rating: Quality 17/20, Value 16/20 iterranean-style dishes. Its location below the Murnau Tourist Office is Riegsee-Aidling, tel. +49/8847-62-25. convenient for both locals and tourists, [email protected], www. Murnau Restaurants but is in no way scenic. Main courses gasthof-post-aidling.de Since this is Bavaria, such hearty range from €14-20. Open Wednesday Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 15/20 dishes as Sauerbraten, red cabbage, through Sunday from noon until Gasthof Zum Stern pork roast, pork knuckles, and potato 2:30pm and from 6-10pm; and Tuesday Good traditional food is served dumplings are often on menus, but, from 6-10pm. in small intimate rooms or, in good increasingly, more international dishes Contact: Auszeit Restaurant, Kohlgru- weather, in the spacious garden of this are served. Whether the kitchen is berstrasse 1, tel. +49/8841-48-87-90. restaurant a short drive from Murnau international or traditional Bavarian, [email protected]. in Seehausen am Staffelsee. Main restaurateurs pride themselves on Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 16/20 courses start at €7. Open daily 12:30- their use of the freshest, locally grown 9pm. products. Restaurant Burgklause Pepper steak is the chef’s specialty Contact: Bruno Wallmeier, Dorstrasse Alpenblick at this welcoming restaurant in the 2, Seehasen a. Staffelsee, tel.+49/8841- Although a car is required to reach Hotel Klausenhof in the Kurpark. 33-04. [email protected], www. this charming restaurant on the Staffel- There is sunny dining in the Winter gasthof-stern.de. Rating: Quality 14/20, Value 15/20 see in neighboring Uffing, it’s ’s Garden, and a rustic atmosphere in the worth the effort. There is both Editor pine-paneled Stube and pub. The fare hoice Gourmetrestaurant a lake and a mountain view C is both regional (venison and white Reiterzimmer and such regional specialties as fish asparagus in season) and Mediter- fresh from the lake, white asparagus in ranean. The three-course daily special A five-course meal in this elegant the April-May asparagus season and is in the €18 range. The €22 pepper restaurant with a Michelin one-star hearty pork dishes are on the menu. steak is the most expensive item on rating in the Alpenhof Hotel is €95, For those seeking lighter fare, there are the menu. A Schnitzel or a salad might a six-course meal €115 and a seven- also Mediterranean-style dishes. Prices be in the €8-10 range. Open daily course meal €125. The emphasis is on start at €12.50 for a main course. Open 11:30am-2pm and 5:30-11pm. fine French cooking. Open Tuesday- Saturday from 6:30-9:30pm. daily from 10:30am to 10pm except Contact: Restaurant Burgklause in Ho- from October to May when it is closed tel Klausenhof, Burggraben 6-10. tel. Contact: Rasachstrasse 8. tel.+49/8841- on Thursday. +49/8841-53-60. info@klausenhof-mur- 491-0. www.alpenhof-murnau.com Contact: Seerestaurant Alpenblick, nau.de, www.klausenhof-murnau.de. Rating: Quality 17/20, Value 16/20 Kirxhstrasse 30, Uffing am Staffelsee, Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 16/20 Gemütlichkeit 9 June 2012 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com Griesbrau zu Murnau Gabrielli Eis Cafe ride the huge Ferris wheel, play carni- Two dining choices are offered at From spring through fall, refresh- val games, watch the fireworks, and of this traditional brew house. For lo- ing Italian ices and ice cream are an course drink wine—more than 400,000 cal color and lower prices, there’s the attraction for Murnau strollers and liters of the local brew (September sprawling brewery where beer can ac- sightseers on the Untermarkt. 7 – 11 and September 14 – 17, 2012, www.duerkheimer-wurstmarkt.de/ tually spout from a drinking fountain Contact: Untermarkt 9, tel. +49/8841- duerkheimer-wurstmarkt.html?L=1). and one can dine on serve-yourself 2962 . Bavarian cooking at long, bare wooden Vintners at the Bad Dürckheim tables. For a slightly more formal Schloss Vogel festival offer more than 150 local wines experience, there’s the dining room. A pleasant coffee house and small for sampling, from inexpensive table In the brew house, prices range from restaurant is open in the Schlossmuse- wines to fine Rieslings and specialties €3.50-8.50 and it is open from 10-1am um Murnau Tuesday through Sunday such as Eiswein (rare ice wine, made daily. In the restaurant, which is closed serving meals from 11:30am-2:30pm only in certain years). Sip Schoppen on Monday and Thursday, prices are and 5:30-9:30pm with coffee and cake glasses of wine at long wooden tables somewhat higher. between times. Main course prices inside large tents, or buy a glass to Contact: Obermarkt 17, tel. +49/8841- from €8-17. drink standing up at the many Schub- 14-22. www.griesbraeu.de. Contact: Schlosshof 4-5, tel. +49/8841- kärchler, small wine stands situated around the fairgrounds. But be fore- Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 13/20 47-6207 warned if you order a Schoppen of wine Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 15/20 Hoffman’s Restaurant at a festival or restaurant in the Pfalz Both international and Bavarian GERMAN WINE FESTIVALS region, because elsewhere in Germany, dishes are offered in the cozy Zibels- Continued from page 1 Schoppen means a .2- or .25-liter glass tube or in the Kaminzimmer of this fine of wine. In the Pfalz, however, a Schop- are boisterous celebrations lasting for everyday restaurant in the Alpenhof pen is a whopping half-liter glass, more a weekend, a week, or even longer, Hotel. Main courses start at €18. Open than many may wish to consume at attracting people from all over the daily from noon to 2pm and 6 to 10pm. one time. region and elsewhere in Germany, too. Contact: Rasachstrasse 8, tel +49/8841- Some are combined with other events, You can get away from the crush of 491-0. www.alpenhof-murnau.com. such as open-air markets, outdoor Bad Dürckheim’s crowds at the many Rating: Quality 15/20. Value 16/20 concerts, art exhibits and craft fairs, smaller, more intimate wine festivals food festivals, and fireworks displays. along the Pfalz’s German Wine Route, Kargs-Brauststuberl Whatever the venue, a German wine usually held for one to three days over On Untermarkt in the heart of festival is a good place to taste the lo- a single weekend. The best time is in town, good, traditional pigs’ knuckles cal wines, eat regional specialties, meet the early autumn, during the grape with potato dumplings, sauerkraut or friendly Germans, and have a rousing harvest season. Local vintners open s red cabbage and similar hearty ’ good time. their cellars to the public and their Bavarian cooking is served Editor courtyards to customers who sit on Choice with the Stube’s wheat beer. From the first blossoms on the benches at long tables, eating regional Main course prices range from €5 to almond trees in mid-March until St. specialties and sipping wines in the 17. Open daily except Monday from Martin’s Day on November 11, more shade of a grape arbor. At a typical 7am-11pm. than 200 festivals are scheduled along village wine festival, a brass band the Deutsche Weinstrasse, the Ger- parades through town, followed by Contact: Untermarkt 27, tel. +49/8841- man Wine Route that extends for 50 8272. www.kargsbraeustueberl.de. homemade floats (often depicting miles through Germany’s Pfalz region wine-making themes). Then the mayor Rating: Quality 16/20, Value 17/20 between the foothills of the forested makes a long-winded speech before Krönner Konditorei & Kaffeehaus Haardt Mountains and the Rhine River crowning that year’s Wine Queen, plain. Since the 18th century there have invariably a pretty teenage girl whose been Krönners in the Murnau area and The giant of all wine festivals family owns one of the wineries in this pleasant café bearing their name is held in this region: the nearly- town (suite101.com/article/festivals- serves coffee and cake, breakfasts and 600-year-old Bad Dürckheimer Wurst- on-the-german-wine-route-a47788) small meals. A specialty of the house is markt (Sausage Market), the Pfalz’s At Neustadt an der Weinstrasse the Agnes Bernauer Torte of almonds equivalent of Munich’s beery Okto- in the Pfalz, vintners celebrate the and mocha-butter cream. Open 8:15am berfest. Despite its meaty name, the end of the harvest with a big parade to 7pm weekdays and Sunday from Wurstmarkt claims to be the largest during the German Grape Harvest noon to 7pm. wine festival in the world, attracting Festival in October. A highlight of this more than half a million visitors to Bad Contact: Obermarkt 8, tel. +49/8841- event is the coronation of that year’s Dürckheim every year. During nine 1272. www.kultur-im-kaffeehaus,de Wine Queen of Germany, elected from days in mid-September, they converge among all the local and regional Ger- Rating: Quality 15/20 ,Value 14/20 on the festival grounds to eat sausages,

Gemütlichkeit 10 June 2012 “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com www.gemut.com man wine queens who meet in Neus- Site that includes the city of Koblenz. wines, as well as regional Schwabian tadt to bestow this honor on one of Among other wine festivals in this foods such as Spätzle, little egg dump- their own (October 5 – 15, 2012, www. region, the Middle Rhine celebrates lings often garnished with cheese, neustadt.eu/Wine-Tourism?La=2). “Golden Wine Autumn“ on two and Maultaschen, the Schwabian Wiesbaden is known as “The Gate- Saturdays in the fall (October 6 and version of ravioli (August 29 – Sep- way to the Rheingau,” the romantic October 13, 2012) with wine tastings, tember 9, 2012, http://stuttgarter- vineyard region on the north side of live music, dancing, and spectacular weindorf.de/cms/front_content. the Rhine River near Wiesbaden and fireworks displays. The best way to php?idart=179). Stuttgart claims this home to some of Germany’s most fa- enjoy this special festival is to book festival attracts more than a million mous wineries, including those near a day-long cruise on a river boat that visitors annually, which would actu- the villages of Rüdesheim, Eltville, and includes stops at the festival towns ally make it larger than the Bad Durck- Assmannshausen. During August, it is along the Rhine and concludes with heimer Wurstmarkt. possible to taste excellent Rhine wines the fireworks that night. (www.rhine- And finally, the Franconia wine from the local vintners at more than river-lights.com) region, along the Main River, hosts 120 booths erected in the Wiesbaden Another popular region for wine a number of events that feature the city center for the annual 10-day Rhe- festivals is the Mosel River, where area’s excellent wines in their charac- ingau Wine Festival (August 10 – 19, dozens of local celebrations are held teristic green Bocksbeutel bottles. Small 2012, www.wiesbaden.de/en/living- from April to October. The largest and festivals in the villages of the Main in-wiesbaden/festivities-markets/ best known is the Weinfest der Mit- River valley, such as Sommerhausen festivities/rheingau-wine-festival. telmosel (Wine Festival of the Middle and neighboring Winterhausen, are php). Mosel) in Bernkastel-Kues, which especially fun to attend, for their fine Shortly after this festival ends, includes fireworks at the Landshut wines and local character. Würzburg, cross the Rhine from Wiesbaden to Castle, crowning of the Middle Mo- the regional capital of Lower Fran- Mainz for the Mainzer Weinmarkt sel Wine Queen, wine tastings at 30 conia, is the site of the Würzburger (Mainz Wine Market), which attracts booths, and a colorful parade of vint- Weindorf (Würzburg Wine Festival), thousands of annual visitors who en- ners through the narrow streets of this where one can sample more than joy wandering through the city’s parks beautiful half-timbered town (August 100 Franconian wines at the booths and rose gardens while tasting Rhine 30 – September 3, 2012, www.ber- and stands in the center of the city wines, eating local specialties, listen- nkastel.de). (May 25 - June 03, 2012, www.wein- ing to live music, and shopping at arts Another pleasant option is to visit dorf-wuerzburg.de). and crafts stalls (August 23 – 26 and the Mosel for a week or so during Don’t think the Würzburgers are August 30 – September 9, 2012, www. harvest time, from August through finished in June. Later in the sum- mainzer-weinmarkt.de). October, to watch the grapes being mer, they host an 11-day Weinpa- During this same late summer picked and experience smaller, more rade am Marktplatz (Wine Festival period, one can also choose to indulge intimate wine festivals in the villages on the Market Square), offering at the 10-day Rheingau Wine Festival lining the river between Koblenz and tastes of more than 100 different in nearby Frankfurt. There, more than Trier (www.travelsignposts.com/ local wines, along with plenty of local 600 wines from the Rheingau region Germany/tag/mosel-wine-festivals). food specialties (August 23 - Sep- at 30 vintners’ are available for tasting There’s a long tradition of wine tember 02, 2012, www.weinparade. at stands in the “Fressgass” food street festivals in the Baden wine region, in de). For more information on Fran- along Bockenheimer Strasse and the southwestern Germany, which pro- conian wine festivals and their 2012 Opernplatz, and in the nearby shop- duces some of the country’s finest red dates, see www.franken-weinland. ping district along the Goethestrasse. wines. Baden is well known for its ex- de/erleben/weinfeste, and www. Food stalls operated by local business- cellent cuisine, too, which attracts gour- fraenkischer-weinfestkalender.de/ es provide the sustenance you’ll need mets from all over Europe (www.bad- termine. to keep from getting totally tipsy on ischerwein.de/english.html). Among At many of the autumn wine all that good Rhine wine (August 29 the many wine festivals in this region, festivals in Germany, the traditional – September 7, 2012, www.frankfurt- one is held in mid-summer in the pretty food and drink are Zwiebelkuchen tourismus.de/cms/tourismussuite/ city of Freiburg, where wines from 40 (onion tart) and Federweisser (one of en/events_trade_fairs_messe_frank- Baden vintners can be tasted (July 5 the many German names for “new furt/rheingau_wine_tasting_festi- –10, 2012, www.freiburger-weinfest.de). wine”), which is fermenting grape val_market.html). One of the largest wine festivals juice that’s still on its way to becom- Farther north along the Rhine, the in Germany is the Stuttgarter Wein- ing real wine. Don’t be fooled by the Mittelrhein (Middle Rhine) region is dorf (Stuttgart Wine Village), held pleasantly sweet taste of this bub- the site of several wine festivals in the in the heart of the city, the capital bly, cloudy brew—usually served in picturesque villages that line the river of Baden-Württemberg, where 120 .25-liter glasses—which you’ll want to valley, a UNESCO World Heritage booths sell 250 kinds of Württemberg quaff like thirst-quenching fruit juice.

Gemütlichkeit 11 June 2012 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com Federweisser does contain alcohol, more sign credit card bills denominated in That is usually every hour on the hour. or less depending on how long the U.S. or Canadian dollars. This legal However, not every American traveler fermentation has been going on, and it but reprehensible practice is known as is fluent enough in German to under- can easily seduce you into drinking so Direct Currency Conversion (DCC), stand what is being said. much that when you stand up you’ll the feeble justification for which is the We are still concerned about the wish you’d been more prudent. customer immediately knows the dollar poor sanitary habits of Germans and Useful websites with more infor- amount of the transaction. DCC is the in the past have written to German mation about German wine festivals: ultimate currency exchange sleight-of- health officials about our concerns. hand because what the vendor doesn’t There is limited hand washing and the • www.germanwineusa.com/ reveal is that to accept a bill presented destination-germany/visiting-ger- use of tongs even in cities is quite lim- in dollars will cost an additional three ited. Bakeries are especially guilty of many.html - Wines of Germany website, to five-percent in fees over and above in English, with links to 15 German handling money and then using those the foreign transaction fees already same hands to fill the next customer’s regional wine boards that have more imposed by your credit card. information on the specific wine festi- bag with Brotchen. The same problems vals in their region. Some final thoughts: exist in meat shops although the heat • Never, ever change money at a of cooking does kill the germs. It’s • www.weinfeste-in-deutschland. altogether different with freshly sliced de - Links, in German, to hundreds hotel, an airport currency exchange booth, or on the street. lunch meats because the germs on of wine festivals in Germany, with a them cannot be removed because no paragraph describing each, the dates • Make sure your ATM card has a cooking is required. Hopefully the re- of the current year’s festivals, and a four-digit PIN. cent E.Coli outbreaks will make them link to more information from each • Know your credit card’s PIN as more aware and see how germs on region’s or festival’s website. well as your ATM’s PIN. coins can be transferred to food items. • www.germany.travel/en/ • Notify your credit card company (Ed. Note: German radio traffic towns-cities-culture/gemuetlich- that you plan to travel out of the coun- updates frequently interrupt regular keit/wine-country/wine-festivals/ try, otherwise an unusual spending programming. On most rental cars these wine-festivals.html - Website of the pattern could trigger a fraud alert and traffic bulletins will also interrupt a CD German National Tourist Office, with transactions could be declined—a ma- that is playing.) good information about wine festivals jor inconvenience for the cardholder. Douglas M. Henry around the country. • Don’t use a credit card to obtain Corvallis, OR • www.travelsignposts.com/ cash. You’ll very likely incur interest Uniworld Food Complaint Germany/food/german-wine-and- charges and transaction fees. beer-festivals The food was no better than aver- • Few, if any, businesses in Europe age on a Portugal Uniworld cruise, • www.gogermany.about.com/ accept Discover card. and the portions were not generous. od/eventsandfestivals/tp/german_ The waiters were good to a degree, but wine_festivals.htm • Before purchasing foreign currency know the current interbank rate by not apparently accustomed to giving • www.travelsignposts.com/ checking rates at www.xe.com.—RHB better than average service. For exam- Germany/tag/mosel-wine-festivals ple, they did not seem to understand and www.german-wine-festivals. that if you take a fork with the dirty com (Mosel River wine festivals) Readers’ Forum plate, another fork must be provided • www.romantic-germany.info/ Jams and Germs when someone goes back to the buf- Wine-festivals.6114.0.html - Website In driving our rental car in Ger- fet. You would return to your seat and with links to several specific wine many we were constantly worried have to ask for another fork. On other festivals in Rheinland-Palatinate. about Stau (traffic jams) and detours. carriers, the dining room was one of One time between Pirmasens and the highlights. Not on Uniworld. Dear Subscriber Hauenstein we had to go through a Roy Karcher Continued from page 1 20-minute Umleitung (detour) both Via email Another way to avoid credit card going and coming to an outing at the (Ed. Note: Unlike Uniworld’s river fees, of course, is to use your ATM card Josef Seibel outlet store. One major cruises in Europe’s Germanic areas, the to withdraw enough money to pay for problem was encountered on the main Douro cruises marketed by Uniworld larger purchases. That option means freeway between Kaiserslautern and are on boats owned and staffed by Douro you’ll be carrying more cash and you Mannheim for highway maintenance Azul, not Uniworld. Thus the level of may have to request that your bank and repair. In neither instance did we service between the Duoro river cruises in raise your daily withdrawal limit. miss a deadline or appointment. It Portugal, and those on Uniworld-owned seems there is only one way to find out and staffed boats, is likely to be different. Direct Currency Conversion about Stau and Umleitungs and that is For what it’s worth, Uniworld is the only When traveling in Europe never to listen to German radio at news time. river cruise line with a Zagat rating.

Gemütlichkeit 12 June 2012