Your Åboriginal guide, from Finland’s first city to the latest trends. 2020
In Turku PRESENTING THE BEST with INSTA-SPOTS P. 6 a camera
EACH BITE OF THE MOOMIN PILGRIMAGE HUNGER IS AN PHENOMENON IN TURKU’S OPPORTUNITY They come from far and ARCHIPELAGO wide to the home of Tove St Olav’s Waterway The flavours of Jansson’s fairytale is heaven for sedate Turku’s restaurants p. 11 characters p. 24 explorers p.16 16–19 The easy explorer’s heaven Would you believe, a pilgrimage route runs across the sea and islands of Turku’s archpelago. 20 Rediscover your roots - in the trees! Luxury and nature in a tent at Ruissalo Spa. 21 TURKU INSPIRES Thousands of island stories 12 Showcasing 5 of the 40,000 islands in Turku’s archipelago. 22 From Turku to the water x 6 From the Aura to the Airisto waves and back.
23 From side to side across the sea Ride with the Vikings to Turku and Stockholm. 24–25 Moomins - the phenomenon Why is Tove Jansson so big in Japan? 26–27 Places to go with kids x 10 Childhood summer’s are never dull in Turku. 28–31 Underground Turku Dig deep into an alternative culture. 28 32–33 Galleries and museums x 12 Origins of the past and the original of today. 34 Walking & guided tours Let Visit Turku be your local guide. 35 Maps & information contents Answers to what and where. 18 2020
4 Editorial 5 TURKU INSPIRES Sounds that echo through the soul 16 Musical highlights from Turku and the archipelago.
ROOPE HARTIKAINEN/MSC FINLAND HARTIKAINEN/MSC ROOPE 6–9 Insta-ready Turku The best Instagram-spots in the city. and 10 TURKU INSPIRES In the footsteps of Paavo Nurmi The Flying Finn was a local Turku legend.
11 The editor’s recommendations x 6 Tantalising tastes of Turku’s restaurants. 12–13 A-HOY! Local food in sight Silja’s herring is locally sourced. KISS MY TURKU IS A CONTENT MARKETING CAMPAIGN PUBLISHED BY VISIT TURKU, SORMUNEN JEMINA 14–15 Turku-Design PROVIDING INSPIRATION TO TOURISTS AND LOCALS ONLINE AND IN PRINT, Embark on a voyage of discovery IN COOPERATION WITH ITS PARTNERS.
KIM ALLEN-MERSH, JEMINA SORMUNEN SORMUNEN JEMINA ALLEN-MERSH, KIM photos SORMUNEN page JEMINA on the adjacent photo photo cover What is that and where can I get one?
3 TURKU INSPIRES The sounds echo through the soul
IN SUMMER 2020, DISCOVER ENCHANTING MUSIC IN THE CITY, THE VILLAGES, editorial ON THE ISLANDS AND AT SEA.
Turku Music Festival 6th-16th August Finland’s best-known classical music festival never rests on its laurels, but attracts cultural tourists from around the world THE SIGHT OF FLY-FISHING HAS ME HOOKED! The colourful, fluttering with its offering of international star performers and adven- wings of fly bait across the shimmering water is as alluring to me as it tures across the boundaries of musical genres. In August 2020, about 40 different events will take place throughout historic is to the fish. Fascinated onlookers like me see fly-fishing as a hypnotic Turku, with concert venues ranging from a private home to a art form. For fishermen, the peaceful experience of nature is often more castle, a church and an old boatyard. The summer pro- important than the catch. A responsible fisherman appreciates our diverse gramme will be published online during the spring. and sensitive environment just as much as the responsible traveller. turunmusiikkijuhlat.fi
Responsible and sustainable choices are the hottest trend in tourism. It is trend that I hope becomes permanent. A fly-fishing trip in the Turku Archipelago is an example of sustainable tourism, requiring both tourism entrepreneurs and their clients to be ecologically conscious. A traveller's responsibility begins at home, when deciding a destination and modes of transport. Places to stay, activities and food are also value choices. Whilst in the archipelago, I recommend ordering a plate of ‘trash fish’ or fish sourced nearby, which are often rejected for no good reason.
So, dear traveller, you can see you have an important role to play in sustainable tourism, as your choices, demands and behaviours make local 2020 businesses accountable and create services that place the least possible strain on the environment. Willing entrepreneurs will also benefit from PUBLISHER: Visit Finland's Sustainable Travel Finland programme, helping to realise Visit Turku 2020 these ideals and promote Finland as a pioneer in sustainable tourism. CONCEPT AND COORDINATION: Drama Queen Communications COLLECT THE ENTIRE SERIES The world's most magnificent archipelago is an asset for Finnish tour- Archipelago Sea Jazz is a new series of four festivals, which combines two of the world's most ism, whose beauty should be enjoyed by all but only through a respectful EDITORIAL TEAM: beautiful things: the archipelago and jazz. The programme will be released during the spring at approach to nature and local culture. I firmly believe that the charm of the Liina Komi, Sanna Keskinen, Heidi archipelagoseajazz.fi. Stay tuned. archipelago has the power to convert every tourist into a protector of the Tuominen, Merja Kallikari, Jemina environment. Alternative tactics of blame or shame for tourist behaviour Sormunen, Kim Allen-Mersh, Juuso are not an effective way to address our climate concerns. Suominen, Stina Frimodig, Jari Baltic Jazz Korpo Sea Jazz Turku Sea Jazz Åland Sea Jazz Salonen, Rami Kangas, Julia Lehtilä 3rd-7th July 22nd-26th July 31st July-1st August 7th-8th August If you haven't yet seen and experienced the Turku Archipelago, enjoy the and Patrick Selin Baltic Jazz, which has become A bold, modern and, in some This newcomer to Turku's This event is the last in the Ar- a summer tradition on the Is- places even experimental jazz music scene offers a different chipelago Sea Jazz series, but tips and advice this magazine provides, including some of our favourite THE SMALL PRINT: land of Kimito, is a cozy festival festival gathers together the kind of city festival. Inviting by no means the least. Held in islands and tales of a journey through the St Olav Waterway. And if you Of course, it goes without saying for the whole family, taking most current names of Finnish you to the atmospheric Ruis- the Merikortteli of Mariehamn, prefer to spend time in an urban setting, you can still enjoy the treasures place in the historical Taalin jazz. Hosted in the beautiful salo Boatyard, audiences can the debut for this Scandina- that things can change, but you of the archipelago by visiting the restaurants and markets of Turku, where tehdas Iron Works. Combining Archipelago Sea, the local enjoy international jazz artists, vian festival offers a Nordic knew that already. the archipelago is brought into the city. styles of classical jazz and concert venues in the authentic top domestic ensembles and programme, an intimate So don't be surprised if that happens HOLMBERG LENNART photo swing, the programme features island scenery provide a unique stand-out names from the atmosphere and high-quality but embrace the natural course both top, international names atmosphere. The artistic director music world. jazz in unique locations. Anne-Marget Hellén of life by checking updates and as well as local stars. for summer 2020, jazz singer Director of Tourism opening hours online. Kiss kiss. Kadi Vija, is known for being a LIINA KOMI KOMI LIINA master of improvisation.
Visit Turku text
4 — KISS MY TURKU 2020 5 3
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2 6 4 5 Ah, the River Aura x 5 Old and Older
THE RIVER AURA IS TURKU’S VITAL ARTERY Turku x 5 CONNECTING WITH THE SEA. HERE'S A FEW TIPS TURKU’S POPULAR CASTLE AND CATHEDRAL ON WHERE TO FIND THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SPOTS. ALWAYS TREND WELL, BUT THERE’S MANY OTHER WELL-AGED, PATINA-COATED ATTRACTIONS TO The Shore at Tervatori 1 SNAP. Just a stone's throw from the Cathedral Bridge is a place known as Tervatori on Google Maps. The Lönnrotintie path Medieval Main Street 5 briefly passes the water’s edge on a wooden walkway. On the Centuries-old stone walled buildings lining narrow, cobblestone opposite shore you can see the verdant banks, old houses medieval streets. You don't always have to go to Tallinn or and the serene tower of Turku Cathedral. It’s like a moment Stockholm - the same ‘old town’ feeling is also found in Turku. frozen in time. Indigenous people of the 19th century believed a camera captured the soul. Well, it’s quite possible the soul of Turku is exposed for all at this very spot. Stairs to Koskenniemenkatu Street 1 Behind the cathedral, an enchanting set of stairs leads up to the summit of Yliopistonmäki hill. Whichever direction your Låna-picnic cruise 2 camera’s pointed, you’re forced to refocus for all the cultural Hire an idyllic electric boat from the shore of Vähätori history and academic tradition in view. Square and enjoy some fresh camera angles from the river #kissmyturku perspective. Smile – there’s no more central spot in Turku. lanaturku.fi The Luostarinmäki Handicrafts Museum 6 HOW IS A TRAVEL DESTINATION REALLY CHOSEN? The 30 buildings of this outdoor museum offer an extremely SURPRISE SURPRISE: THE TOP CRITERION NOWADAYS rare and unique photographic opportunity. It’s no surprise
, IS ITS INSTAGRAMMABILITY. SO HERE’S 22 PLACES AND Föri that this distinctive 19th century neighbourhood has appeared THINGS IN TURKU WHOSE AESTHETICS SHOW UP WELL What’s orange, loved by the locals and rocks from shore in movies. turku.fi/en/handicraftsmuseum IN PIXEL-FORM. to shore of the river? The answer: the over 100-year-old Föri ferry. If rickety authenticity is your thing, then hurry – you’ll get a free River Aura cruise into the bargain. Casagrande House Adorning the wall of the building at the edge of Vähätori square is Picture Perfect Ruissalo the text ‘Omnia Vincit Amor 1588-1904’. In summer, the beau- Riverboats Ruissalo is a beautiful place to visit whenever you're in Turku. Famous for the 3 tiful people of Turku flock to some of the city’s best restaurants Ruisrock music festival, other photographic attractions are hiding there, like The River Aura's fabled fleet of restaurant boats look simply and embrace the vibrant terrace milieu. casagrandentalo.fi beautiful on a summer’s night. Stay late to snap the sunrise.
KIM ALLEN-MERSH, JEMINA SORMUNEN JEMINA ALLEN-MERSH, KIM the old villas in the Kansanpuisto Park, where the colours of the wooden architecture are straight from the menu of an old-fashioned ice cream parlor. Port Arthur aka Portsa 7 photos photos Many of the villas have their own private bathing huts on the beach. Library Bridge A hundred years ago, swimmers didn’t jump straight from the pier to the sea 4 Is this Finland's most beautiful neighborhood? We think so. but took a more civilized approach, from a hole in the hut floor. The moment there’s a whisper of beautiful light, you’ll find The cobblestone streets and former homes of sailors and their
LIINA KOMI KOMI LIINA a passionate photographer setting their tripod at the foot of wives are now a thriving urban community, with the most JENNI VIRTA, SEILO RISTIMÄKI, JOONAS MÄKIVIRTA and VISIT TURKU VISIT and MÄKIVIRTA JOONAS RISTIMÄKI, SEILO VIRTA, JENNI text text the library bridge. Come to see and you’ll understand why. beautiful homes and courtyards in Finland.
6 — KISS MY TURKU 2020 7 Statues x 5
Posankka 7 Stargazing Guarding the entrance to the student village At each corner of the Myllysilta Bridge are 8 and Caribia Spa Hotel is a bizarre yet beau- statues of primitive human-like figures tiful union of pig and duck. It is the unique lounging on Turku’s river benches. The works 7 creation of artist Alvar Gullichsen. of Kari-Petteri Kakko simply scream for a selfie. Daisy 8 She loves me, she loves me not? Forum Mari- Meeting in Turku 1812 num's hyper-realistic giant flower byJani Rät- Pose with the Russian Tzar and the Crown tyä and Antti Stöckell, photgraphs superbly. Prince of Sweden. The statue by Andrei 2 Kovaltshuk found at the end of the Library Kiss my Turku Bridge looks very traditional but was actually ‘Kiss my Turku’ is displayed in large letters made in 2012. across the city, such as at the Paavo Nurmi Stadium, or the Walo Rooftop Bar. STROLL ON SCREEN WITH THE MOVIE WALK Dozens of movies and TV series have been filmed in Turku this 1 4 3 millennium, which is no surprise with such a fabulous atmos- phere for the story’s backdrop. Visit Turku’s guided Movie Walk tour takes you to the heart of the city’s filming locations for the reasonable price of €10. Find more info at: visitturku.fi A Feast for Tiirikkala Café Bar 3 Fun fact, this is Turku's most photographed woodshed. The The Eyes x 6 beautifully popular Tiirikkala serves from the former prem- ises of an Artek shop and nobleman's wood store. WHERE TO GO TO SPOT BEAUTIFUL tiirikkala.fi COFFEES, DRINKS AND MEALS?
Café Art 1 Turku Market Hall 4 Turku's most instagrammatic spot is, of course, on the Come and see if you can capture with your camera a slice of riverside, where Café Art, known for having the city’s best Turku’s culinary soul. The hall building, dating from 1896, baristas, remains a prized possession of Turku’s café culture. provides a setting for Turku’s merchants to concoct their wares The riverside terrace has all you need to be an Insta-primo, within. kauppahalli.fi with pastel-coloured stone buildings, the rays of light streaming between ancient trees and a beautiful pattern on the foam of your latte. cafeart.fi Kakolanruusu 5 OI, WONDERFUL WALO! A relaxed yet refined restaurant onKakolanmäki hill, where
only at the turn of the millennium people were still serving Turku has one rooftop bar, the Walo Rooftop Bar, located on time not food. This well-decorated restaurant is located in the roof of Wiklund's new department-store-hotel combo. the majestic milieu of the old prison. Arrive up the hill in style aboard Turku’s new ‘Funi’ funicular. kakolanruusu.fi On the ninth and tenth floors, the rooftop bar is a must- see for both Turku residents and visitors to the city. The lo- 5 6 cals are particularly fascinated by the bird's-eye view of Pinella the new market square development (looking like a sink- 6 hole. For many, it’s a fascinating surprise looking at Turku at Café Qwensel 2 This might be Finland's oldest restaurant but it’s no mu- an angle from which the city has never been seen before. In the 1700’s, it was a pan of coffee rather than a luxurious seum of food. The Puupinella side exudes the best of this #walorooftopbar Insta-activists are delighted by the big Kiss my latte. One of Turku's best kept secrets is the café found at bright and venerable building. Beautiful dishes, fabulous Turku letters above Walo. They have featured in the Pharmacy Museum. cafeqwensel.fi drinks and the most majestic columns in Turku. pinella.fi quite a few posts since the bar was opened.
8 — KISS MY TURKU 2020 9 text LIINA KOM photo SPORTS MUSEUM OF FINLAND 10 paavonurmigames.fi to Turku. a hostof competitive international stars June willbringboth domesticstars and Athletics IAAF World ChallengeSeriesin Finland's onlyevent intheInternational 9th June Paavo NurmiGames EVENTS — KISS 2020 MYTURKU IN SUMMER 2020: THE MAP OF THE WORLD IN THE 1920S. PAAVO NURMI WAS FROM TURKU. ONE OF THE BEST ATHLETES OF ALL TIMES REALLY PUT FINLAND ON TURKU INSPIRES In ofPaavo thefootsteps Nurmi paavonurmimarathon.fi renowned for its natural beauty. and through theIsland of Ruissalo, of Paavo NurmialongtheRiver Aura marathon runners inthereal footsteps The traditional runningevent takes 22th August Paavo NurmiMarathon arrangement, justcall: +358 22627900(Visit Turku). at Jarrumiehenkatu 4as17. It's openfor visitors by special PS. The museumof Paavo Nurmi's childhoodhomeislocated marathon. Paavo NurmiFestivals –aseries of events whichincludethe statue onthe Aura Bridge, thePaavo NurmiStadium andthe city of Turku honours its own runninglegendwitha international nickname, The FlyingFinn. Today, thesporting medals. With suchaccolades, Nurmiwas noblygranted the career culminated in,amongother things,twelve Olympic Paavo Nurmi(1897–1973) was a Turku-born runner whose The FlyingFinn challenge-turku.com hit thebike are you taken outof town. town alongtheriverside, onlywhen you in the Aura andtheruntaking you down triathlon challenge. With theswim located come to Turku where you can take onour When amarathon aloneisnot enough, 1st -2ndAugust TurkuChallenge
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text and photos JEMINA SORMUNEN dations recommen- The editor’s more are foundatkissmyturku.com! for Turku? Here are afew, and In needofsomerestaurant tips Linnankatu 3 a colourful sight andapartyfor your palate. delightful ‘hug’. Whatever you pick from themenu,it’s always feels like thenamesuggests, from décor to dining,allisa Want to tryout sometasty vege-food? At Hügge, everything Hügge Läntinen Rantakatu 3 style cuisineandwhere thewine listissomething special. discover E.Ekblom,offering international flavours andbistro- On theshores of theRiver Aura, inalight pink stone house, you’ll E. Ekblom Tuomiokirkonkatu 6 interior andrelaxed customer service exemplifies the mood. great style, free from thepretence of finedining. Therugged the oldGovernor's Magazine, Roster serves goodfood with In theshadow of Turku Cathedral, inthecharmingbuildingof Roster Läntinen Rantakatu 9 sight! The menualsoincludesmeatandvegetarian dishes. The bountiful seafood platter onthemenuistrulyanimpressive ises infishandseafood delicacies to share with your dinner party. If you love seafood, you’ll alsolove Bassi. The restaurant special- Bassi Linnankatu 17 especially by candlelight. the atmosphere intheoldpaint shopisstunninglybeautiful- want more thanameal. The dishesare like works of art, and Offering casual finedining, Luduistheright choice when you Ludu Kaskenkatu 6a advance. The place issmallbuttheexperience great. the Michelinguide, it’s avery goodideato book afew months in uncomplicated. Having received multiplerecommendations in in qualityandspontaneity, whilstatthesametimedelightfully Kaskis isasuperstar of therestaurant scene in Turku, both high Kaskis 6 X 11
▲ HÜGGE ▲ E. EKBLOM ▲ ROSTER ▲BASSI ▲ LUDU ▲ KASKIS Waves of local food Every day, fresh vegetables from the Alitalo garden in Paimio are brought aboard Silja. The vegetables vary depending on demand. The ship’s wok dishes are one delicious example of where they’re used. ”WE MUST KEEP TO The servings of pork and cold cuts are brought in from the Kivikylä charcuterie, HIGH STANDARDS EVERY based in Lappi and Huittinen in the Satakunta region. You can enjoy these delicious MINUTE AND EVERY cured meats at the breakfast table, for instance. Those with a gourmet sweet tooth will HOUR OF EVERY DAY.” find it hard not to over-indulge in the cakes, pastries and biscuits from MBakery – cho-
RIKU ALHO, sen as Finland's Best Bakery in 2015. KITCHEN MANAGER Silja is one of the boats cruising between Finland and Sweden, so of course Finland TALLINK SILJA / BALTIC PRINCESS is not the only local food source, with ingredients also brought aboard in Sweden. For example, there's plenty of Swedish cheeses in the restaurants (but also Finnish as well).
Responsible fishing from the seas nearby
When casting about the fish table, hook yourself some Baltic herring. The shrimps and herring used by Tallink Silja are MSC certified, a guarantee of sustainable fishing. So you can enjoy them whilst feeling good about yourself. A-HOY ! Baltic herring products board Silja from the fishing village of Ihamo in Pyhämaa. Fisherman Vento has been a long-time part- ner, always providing seasonal products, such as various mari- nated herring, among other things. Last Christmas, for example, Local food passengers got to taste Vento's rum-raisin herring.
TIP: On Silja's 11-hour archipelago cruise you can taste BOOK YOUR CRUISE: tallinksilja.fi what’s on offer on two separate ships. Enjoy a long brunch aboard Galaxy on your way from Turku to Mariehamn. On the way back, head to the Baltic Princess buffet tables. in sight It's impressive, you’ll see.
WHY RETURN TO SHORE TO EAT? WE ASKED OURSELVES THE SAME QUESTION, AS NOWADAYS MMMMMMM... ABOARD SILJA YOU CAN ENJOY EXTRAORDINARILY WHAT A CAKE! GOOD FOOD PREPARED FROM HIGH QUALITY The Turku bakery, MBakery, is well known for LOCAL INGREDIENTS. its colourful and individual cakes and pastries. Silja has been so delighted with the bakery's confectionery that the on-site pastries, bis- ROOPE HARTIKAINEN/MSC FINLAND HARTIKAINEN/MSC and ROOPE Charter a course to quality and taste cuits and cakes are now available on every ship. On the other hand, it’s little wonder con- Did you know that at the dining tables aboard Tallink Silja’s ships, sidering MBakery has been the best bakery in Finland, starring in a 2015 TV programme of you’ll discover tomatoes from Paimio, ham from Huittinen and her- the same name.
KIM ALLEN-MERSH ALLEN-MERSH KIM ring from Pyhämaa? The white ships steer towards favouring ingredi- ents from local producers as well as food from responsible sources. If you're not familiar with the heavenly delica- photos photos “Why search for something on the far side of the world if it can cies of MBakery, pop into Piece of Cake in the TALLINK SILJA TALLINK be sourced nearby?” points out Riku Alho, the kitchen manager Turku Market Hall or the M Kitchen at Turku's lovely Aboa Vetus & Ars Nova Museum. aboard Tallink Silja. High quality local food is a choice that many cruise passengers vote
STINA FRIMODIG FRIMODIG STINA for with their wallet. So, what direction should you look to discover in cooperation with in cooperation text text local food?
12 — KISS MY TURKU 2020 13
▼ ▼ The décor of Turun The table at Restaurant Seurahuone reflects the Gunnar was carved from 1920’s language of design, a 150-year-old Turku with a modern twist. wych elm.
▼ ▼ The dresses and tunics of hotel staff are designed by local designer MyOlsson.
Embark on a voyage of discovery
ITEMS FLUENT IN TURKU DIALECT
Turku-Design The most passionate Turku fans will discover their for- tune in Fortuna Court in KUI Design, where home tex- WHY GO TO PARIS WHEN WE HAVE TURKU?* 150-year-old Turku wych elm. Tables are delightfully set with tiles, jewellery, clothing and accessories tell urban sto- EXACTLY! COME TO TURKU, STAY OVERNIGHT Terraviiva's pearl decorated ceramic plates. ries in style. “Pearls are a theme that reinforces the spirit of the 1920s, “Turku is strongly featured in our products and often in IN THE NEW TURUN SEURAHUONE AND humorous ways,” says designer Anna Hormio. The city DISCOVER INSPIRATION IN THE FLAGSHIP reflected through personnel as well as details in the décor. ferry Föri was one of KUI Design's first patterns, and a Turku Pearl Jeweller Blingi has created custom-made neck- SHOPS OF THE CITY. natural follow-up is the fun Funi collection, celebrating laces, while BEdesign has gorgeous mirrors hanging on the the city's most talked about mode of transport. The im- REVERED NORDIC DESIGN has been refined with a fresh and walls and adorned with pearls,” says Paloniemi. age of the whimsical hillside lift has found its way onto playful south-western twist, on the River Aura shores. A trav- a chopping board, a parking disc and a poster, to name a few. eller can immediately experience the charms of Turku Design Curious and responsible "Funi products have aroused mixed and surprisingly with a stay at the freshly renovated Solo Sokos Hotel Turun strong feelings," Hormio reveals. Seurahuone, a boutique hotel sparkling with an unabashed An inspired traveller staying at Seurahuone will find reward local image and nearly 100 years of history. Opened in 1928, when venturing away from the chain stores because there’s a the hotel was designed by Erik Bryggman and Ilmari Aho- strong love for Turku and local design. nen. “Absolutely! There’s lots of cool stuff being done in Tur- "It's no coincidence the hotel looks the way it does to- ku,” says designer Anna Hormio of KUI Design. day. The style reflects the liberated spirit and language of “Turku is an important theme in our collection, and much design of the 1920’s, with a modern twist,” of the store's products are made in our work- PUF PUF explains hotel manager, Sanna Paloniemi. shop in Manilla. and Dedicated to domestic brands, PUF is de- A bounty of inspiration lighted to welcome a fashion trend that keeps charming its customers with local designs. The bold and resplendent milieu of Turun “People are more aware and are definitely Seurahuone has been seasoned with Turku more curious than before because they want One of the most popular Turku products at PUF (found on Linnankatu, next to the Turku City design and the input of local artists. The hotel to know what the product is made from,” Library) is the “Varför Paris, vi har ju Åbo” fabric bags. The PUF + TOMI collection also draws is an enticing shop window. states Hanna Pennanen and Matti Järvinen, on themes from Turku. “The project’s first collection is strongly influenced by Turku, being proud Turku locals our- KIM ALLEN-MERSH, KUI DESIGN DESIGN KUI ALLEN-MERSH, KIM “Elegant local style is reflected not only in the décor but founders of PUF. selves we want to encourage others to do the same,” says PUF founders Hanna Pennanen also staff uniforms, with women's dresses and tunics designed “We believe that people increasingly appreciate original and Matti Järvinen. by local designer, MyOlsson. The scarves and men's handker- design shops and product individuality, in addition to quality “The collection design is both inventive and timeless, which can be one factor in its popularity.” chiefs are also from the same clothing collection. and functionality of course. For our part, we want to invest in * "Why go to Paris, when we have Turku" was a statement by a Swedish journalist, regarding The men's uniforms are completed by a Woobs wooden our cultural foundations and to continually strive for its de- Timo Sarpaneva's Kestilä clothing design collection. Published in the 60's, the magazine headline bowtie, with the Turku Seurahuone façade printed on one side velopment.” is alive now more than ever!
photos photos KALLIKARI MERJA and the Gunnar logo on the other. A more substantial piece It is easy for a shopper in Turku to be responsible – and HAVE A DESIRE TO VISIT TURKU? Book a wonderful night in Turun Seurahuone's new boutique hotel: in cooperation with TOK TOK with in cooperation text text of local wooden design is the restaurant table, carved from a also extremely proud of his Åbo-tennis socks at home. sokoshotels.fi.
14 — KISS MY TURKU 2020 15 "WE NOTED AS WE CONTINUED, HOW first fellow hiker. Maria was from Stockholm and an enthu- NATURE CARESSED ALL siastic walker. While planning her summer vacation, she had THE SENSES." come across the St Olav Waterway online and decided this time to walk from Turku via Åland to Stockholm. “Next year, Trondheim,” Maria called out as she waved and lifted her backpack. We wished her a good trip and admired a moment as our new acquaintance stode off into the distance.
WE WEREN'T IN A HURRY, so we let the day warm up and breakfast settle before we set off. For the first few kilometres we had to walk at the side of the main road. The traffic was busy but with a bit of teamwork we just about survived. Mo- torists generously gave a wide berth and where it was not possible because of oncoming traffic, we kindly ducked onto the verge. The convivial atmosphere was epitomised by the fact that we were twice asked if we wanted a lift. We politely refused and received a happy wave in response. Thanks and see you round! After an hour of dodging other road users, we headed off onto smaller roads. As the sounds of traffic disappeared, St Olav’s Waterway we once again noticed how navigating through nature aroused all sense.
NATURALLY, THE LANDSCAPE PROVIDED ITS OWN STORY. the easy explorer's Open fields surrounded by logged fences, wind-blown archi- pelago pines, the sun glittering off the bays and the clouds gently floating in blue skies were like something straight from the lyrics of Our Land. The surrounding sounds were also inspiring. Birds were singing, the cows were mooing, a dog was barking and some- heaven where an axe fell, splitting logs for firewood. Most surprising was the intoxicating smell of wild strawberries. It came sub- tly, with neither of us realising what it was at first, then we laughed at our shared ignorance. Hmm, it smells like straw- berries here? Of course, the entire roadside is red. JUST FOLLOW YOUR FEET. Initially, our plans were flex- Oh how good they tasted. As did the blueberries and AT THE START OF SUMMER, I FOUND ible, like on holiday. We were to begin by following the raspberries we found later. The importance of our sense of MYSELF BUSY AT MY DESK WRITING. newly opened St Olav Waterway as long as it suited us, touch— the most important you might say because perhaps WHEN ALL THE WORK WAS DONE IT WAS deviating only when hunger or tiredness necessitated. without it humanity wouldn’t have existed — became appar- DIFFICULT TO REALLY CLEAR MY HEAD. Our actual hike started on the ferry between Par- ent after walking ten kilometres. As the soles of our feet be- LUCKILY, HELP WAS ONLY A SHORT BUS gas and Nagu. The connecting ferry, known as Ele- gan heating up, it was a gentle reminder that our undemand- RIDE AWAY. SO, WITH THE WEATHER ktra, is powered by electricity, so the ride is silent ing feet needed some attention. A good way to avoid blisters PROMISING WE PACKED UP A PICNIC and emission-free, just as a nature trip should be. As and abrasions is to change your shoes from time to time. So KIM ALLEN-MERSH KIM BAG, A CHANGE OF CLOTHES AND SOME soon as we stepped off the bus, the calm sea breeze we took off our hiking sandals, slipped on our sneakers and immediately worked its magic. When the bow hit continued on. photos photos HOLIDAY READING, AND HEADED INTO THE ARCHIPELAGO FOR A FEW DAYS OF HIKING. the dock, an aching hunger immediately took hold. The well-marked St Olav's Waterway was easy to navi- We grabbed coffee and sandwiches from the harbour gate. At crossings there are small but clear signs telling you kiosk. As we sat down at the outdoor table, we met our which direction to take. However, with fewer signs on the JARI SALONEN SALONEN JARI text text Kimito of and Island with Pargas in cooperation visitparainen.fi
16 — KISS MY TURKU 2020 17 "THE COUNTRYSIDE HOLDS MUCH DIVERSITY – PATCHWORK FORESTS, ROLLING HILLS, ARCHING BRIDGES, DELICATE INLETS, BROKEN BEACHES, TRACKS AND TRAILS IN THE RIGHT DOSES – SOMETHING INTERESTING ALL THE TIME." ARCHIPELAGO TRAIL straight sections they provide a greater test of a traveller’s We had set out on our journey after making The Archipelago Trail is an official tourist route, which faith. But all is well when you finally spot a familiar red- a pretty spontaneous decision, and we certainly you navigate either by bicycle, scooter, car or hiking. and-white cross marked on a roadside tree. weren’t the only ones on the same path. The Trail There are two routes of different lengths to choose The countryside holds much diversity – patchwork for- attracts more and more tourists every year, and it’s from. Along the way, you’ll discover attractions and, ests, rolling hills, arching bridges, delicate inlets, broken a popular area for holiday cottages. We were quite of course, the authentic archipelago atmosphere. beaches, tracks and trails in the right doses – something lucky that we were able to stay the night exactly There are boat sheds, wood-fired saunas, arching bridges, ferry crossings and traditional archipelago interesting all the time. where we wanted - or at least with a close neigh- bread. Places to stay and eat are open all year round. bour. AFTER FOUR HOURS OF HIKING WE ARRIVE AT A PARISH As firm fans of good food, the destination for Read more: saaristonrengastie.fi/en VILLAGE. After the quiet of the forest landscapes, the second day was obvious – we headed for the sec- bustle of Nagu is quite the happening metropolis. There ond acclaimed Restaurant Back Pocket. Sadly, Archipelago Trail ~ 250 km Turku – Pargas – Nagu – Korpo – Houtskär – Iniö – Kustavi – Taivassalo – seemed more people, cafés, market stalls, laughter and life Hotel Nestor was full but fortunately, only a few Askainen – Merimasku – Naantali – Turku than the market square in Helsinki. hundred metres away, we found a comfortable Short Archipelago Trail ~ 100 km Turku – Pargas – We certainly had a good time. We craved a cup of cof- double room at Faffas B&B. The house was cosy Nagu – Seili – Hanka – Rymättylä – Naantali – Turku fee, so we sat down at a suitable terrace for a moment to and homely, so everything came up smelling of watch the energy of the marina. When our strength had roses. returned, we made the spontaneous decision to rent ca- Back Pocket was worthy of its reputation. We noes for a couple of hours. The rental period of five hours had lunch at the restaurant and afterwards were was enough for a small sea adventure. We weren't kayak- then especially thankful our accommodation ing for long but a scan of the nearby shores gave us a good wasn’t further away. Even 200 metres on a full feel for what the archipelago looked like from the waves. stomach was a struggle. We managed to make it For the first night we’d booked intoHotel Stallback- and spent the rest of the day reading, snoozing and en. After a shower and rest, we marched to the restaurant digesting lunch in the Faffas garden. hungry like a wolf. Dinner was served on the terrace. The hot day turned BY EVENING, OUR APPETITES HAD RETURNED. We into a balmy evening, with the setting sun yielding a gold- walked again to Back Pocket and its kitchen did en glow from the surrounding fields. We admired a cou- not let us down. ple of nearby cranes, dined long and leisurely and by ten After breakfast it was time to plan our return COASTAL ROUTE o’clock we were already flat out in our rooms. home. We didn't want to go directly to Turku, After breakfast, we threw on our backpacks and headed so decided to walk to Korpo Church, and the The coastal route is a beautiful bicycle route that runs for Korpo. After leaving Nagu, we took a detour from St beauty of the morning definitely looked like the through the National Parks of the Archipelago Sea, Olav's Waterway and continued our own path. We strolled best time. We sauntered less than ten kilometres Teijo and Ekenäs. Along the route you will find a num- along the side roads, ate berries from the verge, admired in over two hours but got there in the end. We ber of must-see places such as Bengtskär lighthouse lungfuls of scenery, and spoke of the world drifting by. picked up a snack from the store and boarded the and the islands of Högsåra, Rosala and Örö, as well as the idyllic ironworks villages of Taalintehdas, Mathild- bus. edal and Kirjakkala. WALKING IS A WONDERFUL TIME TO CHAT. Silent mo- "AS FIRM FANS OF GOOD If you do not own a bike, you can rent one along ments never seem uncomfortable, so conversations are FOOD, THE DESTINATION the way. The bike can be picked up from one location and returned to another. So you can come by car and relaxed and unforced. Thoughts can mature into full sen- FOR THE SECOND DAY WAS then bike where you like. The route is approximately tences unhindered and answers can be just as thought- OBVIOUS – WE HEADED 200 kilometres long, with 35 kilometres of the route fully composed. Time is a gift. Conversations given only INTERESTED IN ST OLAV’S WATREWAY? The new pil- FOR THE ACCLAIMED carried out aboard ferries. five minutes at home, on a hike are granted a five-hour grimage route from Turku to Trondheim passes through RESTAURANT BACK the Turku Archipelago. Explore the route and choose a exchange. POCKET." distance suitable for you: stolavwaterway.com Get to know better the route at: rannikkoreitti.fi
18 — KISS MY TURKU 2020 19 Rediscover your roots TURKU INSPIRES Thousands of island stories – in the trees! LOCATIONS FOR THAT FAMOUS MARITIME FEELING IN TURKU’S ARCHIPELAGO.
Bengtskär At the Bengtskär lighthouse to the far south of the Turku Archi- pelago, you really feel insignificant, with open sea all around and the wild and untamed rocky skerries the only land. The na- tional romantic style of the early 20th century inspired the light- house architecture. The tower has six former lighthouse rooms that now accommodate visitors. Stories of shipwrecks, battles and warfare all add drama to the experience of Bengtskär. A few million years ago, people bengtskar.fi slept in the trees. It provided all kinds of little benefits. It’s now a habit that’s making a comeback. We decided to find out why? 1
A TENT FLOATING IN THE AIR already sounds pretty good. There’s something exciting, new and distantly familiar
▲ Tents are isolated about it. These tentsile tents are found along the rocky from the hustle and shores near Ruissalo Spa, where you can book your stay bustle of the hotel. Sun- just like a hotel. bathe on smooth rocks from daybreak to dusk. The Tentsile is stretched out between three sturdy trees. They offer many advantages but the main one is that hanging in the air allows you to sleep where normal ▲ Every reservation in- tents are impractical. Just like on Ruissalo's rocky coasts. cludes all the spa hotel’s amenities, so there’s no Above all, hanging from the trees is a fun way to sleep. need to go all in on your Hovering above ground like a spacecraft, you enter the nature experience. tent via the zipped front door or from below via the "se- Seili Högsåra Örö Utö cret hatch". The rain cover is removable, allowing you to The long history of the Island Just a short ferry ride from Awaiting travellers to Örö in The former island of the Finnish
▲ Other types of places instead soak up some rays under open skies. When your of Seili is one of the most the island of Kimito, Högsåra the outer archipelago is an Defence Forces is now a to stay are close by, sleeping buddy rolls over, so will you, so expect plenty of remarkable in the Turku has magical stories to tell, impressive package of natural vacation spot. The journey to including a barbecue Archipelago. For centuries, with Russian tsars and their beauty and history of military the outskirts of the archipelago cabin with lovely sea hilarity. the island served as an island entourage spending sum- defence. In addition to the takes about 4 to 5 hours from views. to where 17th century leprosy mers here over a hundred historic guns and barracks, Turku. Whilst on the ferry, you A TENTSILE IS A NEW METHOD OF SLEEPING OUTSIDE and sufferers were deported, and years ago. Nowadays, the the fortified island, formerly can observe the changing a fresh way to enjoy those summer nights. This primitive then later on the mentally ill. word Högsåra has barely left of the armed forces, enjoys landscape, from lush green KIM ALLEN-MERSH, TERRI TERRI VAHTERA ALLEN-MERSH, KIM experience feels altogether quite natural. It’s reminiscent Today, Seili is home to re- the lips before the delightful abundant heather meadows archipelago to the rugged outer of a hammock, a symbol of tropical relaxation that echoes searchers from the University Farmor's Café is mentioned. and rare plants, from the islands. At Utö, inhale deep and photos photos the freer and more harmonious existence of our forebear- of Turku and tourism service The archipelago’s gourmet Western Pasque-flower to Sea breathe in the infinite sea, the personnel. The latter provide matriarch is known for lovely Kale. Furthermore, Örö has heavenly sky and the majesty of
ers. So raise yourself and your spirits, and do what comes TURKU VISIT photos a lovely restaurant and ac- food and especially good a couple of nice restaurants nature. The hotel and restau- naturally – sleep in a tree. commodation on Seili. Arrive cakes, where, best of all, and various accommodation rant in the former barracks also by ferry from Turku, Nagu or you're allowed to cut your options in the renovated old mean you eat well and rest in READ MORE AND BOOK A NIGHT in Ruissalo Spa’s hanging tents. LIINA KOMI LIINA
JUUSO SUOMINEN SUOMINEN JUUSO Rymättylä. own slice. barracks. comfort. If you prefer to be independent, the spa also offers comfortable
text text visitseili.fi farmorscafe.fi visitkemiönsaari.fi visituto.fi in cooperation with Sunborn in cooperation text text hotel rooms. ruissalospa.fi
20 — KISS MY TURKU 2020 21 text JEMINA SORMUNEN photos JEMINA SORMUNEN, KIM ALLEN-MERSH and VISIT TURKU
▼ M/S RUDOLFINA ▼ BUSTER RENT ▼M/S LILY ▼ RIVER AURA GUIDE CENTRE ▼ FÖLI WATERBUS ▼ S/S UKKOPEKKA 22 — KISS 2020 MYTURKU 6 X rudolfina.fi the diverse archipelago buffet isjustasdelightful. Naantali's Old Town. Inadditionto deliciousarchipelago landscapes, Cruise aboard M/SRudolfina andfloatpast Ruissalo's lace villasand M/S vuokraa.buster.fi/en boat directly onthewater. or for anentire weekend of boating. With Buster Rent, you can order a to see Turku’s archipelago inawholenew way, whether asadaytrip Are you insearch of abitmore speed? The motorboat rideallows you Buster Rent rosita.fi enjoy thesunandadmire thesummer villasontheislands asyou glide by. Vepsä. The voyage to Vepsä issostunning,besure to headoutondeck to summer, transporting passengers from Turku to therecreational islandof The red andwhite of M/SLilyisafamiliar sight ontheRiver Aura in M/S Lily aurajoki.net Riverthe Aura. a SUP-board or even acanoe andakayak for apaddlingtripalong dolla, offering muchmore thanfreshly madebuns. Here, you can rent Located next to Halistenkoski, there istheadorable summer café Pa River Aura GuideCentre foli.fi the route, M/SRuissalo andM/SJaarli. for anadventure to Ruissalo andPikisaari. There are two vessels on operates onthewater. With aFöli busticket you can take awaterbus Turku isanarchipelago city, whichmeansour publictransport also Föli Waterbuses with dancingonthepier andanarchipelago dinner. ukkopekka.fi es from Turku to theislet of Loistokari. The evening soiree iscrowned shift steams between Turku andNaantali, andintheevenings itcruis- 80-year-old steamboat Ukkopekka. Insummer, Ukkopekka's morning The mostnostalgic way to sailto the Airisto from Turku isaboard the S/S Ukkopekka famous Turku Archipelago. Auraof theRiver oradmire the Head to thenationallandscape to the waterto From Turku R udolfina
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text STINA FRIMODIG photos VIKING LINE and JUNIBACKEN © ULFHUETT in cooperation with Viking Line imagination. fairytale train anddive into aworld of gren's fairy-tale characters. Take the experience dedicated to Astrid Lind Island, Junibacken isacultural JUNIBACKEN: moominworld.fi other entertaining activities. of hugsallround aswell asahostof beloved Moomincharacters. Plenty Naantali, meet allof Tove Jansson's MOOMINWORLD: From sideto sideacross thesea junibacken.se Located onDjurgården TRAVEL FROM ONE ADVENTURE TO ANOTHER IN COMFORT ABOARD THE VIKING LINE SHIPS. TURKU AND STOCKHOLM OFFER GREAT ACTIVITIES FOR FAMILIES THROUGHOUT THE YEAR.
child’s play - literally. The ships On Kailo Island in are loaded with fun playrooms
and a diverse programme Turku and Stockholm is the journey betweenAboard
of events and activities, STEER TOWARD THE HORIZON AND BOOK YOUR ENTERTAINING ADVENTURE HERE EVEN THE CRUISE PROVIDES KIDS WITH AN UNFORGETTABLE ADVENTURE!
so you’ll never
Viking Line,
be bored! - turku.fi/en/handicraftsmuseum the crafts of artisansfrom thepast. ages of Turku’s great fire, and explore tarinmäki hill,whichescaped therav Time-travel into the1800’s atLuos LUOSTARINMÄKI HANDICRAFTS MUSEUM: the animals.skansen.se fashioned gamesaswell assayhito steads. You can have funtryingold of Sweden through houses andfarm outdoor museum,explore thehistory SKANSEN: STOCKHOLM TURKU At theworld’s oldest - - - kungligaslotten.se includes afunanimalsafari. and experience history. Itevens in Sweden isafunway to seeand THE ROYAL PALACE: Little Knights tours, search for treas knighthood! of thetour you willreceive your own centuries ago. Bestof all,attheend ures andlisten to exciting tales from TURKU CASTLE: : vikingline.fi turku.fi/en/turkucastle During Turku Castle’s
The Royal Palace 23 - watch Moomin animations and read Moomin books just like in Finland. "It's easy to fall in love and identify with the characters and their stories," Eri says. But there isn’t just one reason explaining this Moomin phenomenon because everyone MOOMINS experiences the Moomins in their own way and identifies with them differently.
– the phenomenon Why the Moomins, specifically? ”IT’S EASY TO FORGET THAT I want to know more, so Eri helps introduce me to a young couple. Nanase and Ryoma MOOMINWORLD ATTRACTS are both in Moominworld for the first time - VISITORS FROM TOKYO AS and on their honeymoon would you believe! WELL AS TAMPERE.” Nanase is a fan of both the Moomins and Tove Jansson but Ryoma, on the other hand, doesn’t share the same fondness. However, the adoring husband wanted to please his new wife, so Ryoma agreed to Finland as their honey- moon destination. Now that's true love! Nanase says she read the Moomin books and really liked them. In addition to the charac- ters, she delighted in Tove Jansson's illustrations of the nature, the sky and the forest. So the inspiration for this trip originated with the Moomin books. I was learning more all the time. My next interviewees are two lovely sisters, Kimiko and Akiko. They are also visiting Moominworld for the first time. Do they like it?
MOOMINWORLD IS A PILGRIMAGE DESTINATION FOR FANS OF TOVE “Yes, very much,” both reply, nodding enthusiastically. Moomins are very familiar to the sisters. Akiko has been reading the Moomin books to her JANSSON, DRAWING ADMIRATION FROM AROUND THE WORLD. BUT own children and she has many friends who also like the Moomins. They excitedly list their WHAT BREEDS THIS WORLDWIDE POPULARITY AND WHAT DO THE favourite characters, such as Snufkin and Moominmamma. MOOMINS MEAN FOR FANS OF VARIOUS AGES? I DECIDED TO FIND OUT. Kimiko and Akiko, however, find much more in the books. They admire the characters and "TOVE JANSSON their wisdom but also the deeper message between the lines, Tove Jansson’s own perspective This July morning in Naantali is stiflingly hot. However, the hot temperatures don’t seem to IS A BIG DEAL IN and way of looking at the world. dissuade people from going, as guests swarm around the gates of Moominworld. As I wait, I JAPAN." scan the throngs of families around and spot a small group of Japanese tourists. Superwoman Tove It’s easy to forget that Moominworld attracts visitors from Tokyo as well as Tampere. The Moomins aren’t just bedtime stories for Finnish children but rather a global phenom- You can't talk about the Moomins without Tove Jansson or Tove Jansson without the Moom- enon that reaches across generations. ins. Every Japanese person I talked to during the day brought up Tove. She seems to be a source of inspiration and admiration for all ages. Many state how Tove is a big deal in Japan. Genuine fans “Many people know her and her work and associate her with the Moomins,” says Eri. I thought Moomin fanatics in Japan were more attracted by the cute appearance of the I follow curiously this Japanese group towards the Moomin House and spot their many Moomins but I was wrong. I wonder if, somehow, Moominworld is seen as a way to immerse Moomin-themed items: backpacks, T-shirts, key rings. It’s as if everyone was dressed for a themselves in Tove's world, reflecting the values that are important to the Japanese. JEMINA SORMUNEN SORMUNEN JEMINA special fan convention. Well, they were. Family, tolerance and equality are things that unite the Finns, the Japanese and the Moom- I want to find out what the Moomins mean to the Japanese. I approach the group’s in- ins. And these are certainly values you’ll find in Moominworld. terpreter, Eri Sanoa, who kindly promises to help.
text and photos and photos text with MOOMINWORLD in cooperation Eri enlightens me, explaining how the Japanese know the Moomins well. In Japan, they MORE MOOMIN VALUES AND THE WAY TO THE TICKET OFFICE: moominworld.fi
24 — KISS MY TURKU 2020 25 Here are 10 children's Families love being in Turku favourites because Turku is made for kids! à la Turku, Whether investigating the world Finland. outdoors, getting wet or working SUPERPARK FORUM MARINUM FORUM ▲ ▼ up a sweat, the city is full of exciting activities for the little Funicular treasures. The freshest newcomer to Turku’s transport system is the Funicular, transporting groups up Kakolanmäki hill and back. In addition to the scenery, you can also experience Finland's most notorious former prison, as well as other amusements. The ride is free! turku.fi/en/funicular GARDEN Places to go SuperPark SuperPark is Caribia’s super indoor activity park. Under the FLOWPARK BOTANICAL same roof, you can jump, play, climb and run around as much ▲ ▼ with kids as you like. Energy burns fast scampering around the park! 10X superpark.fi Flowpark Looking for new heights and fun challenges? At the Flowpark Forum Marinum Maritime Museum adventure park you can balance on a tightrope, clamber over At Forum Marinum, kids have a dedicated area to explore the obstacles and swing like Tarzan on a zip line. The adventure mysteries of seafaring through play. The centrepiece of the trails are built in the trees (don't worry, you won't get hurt!)
PLANITARIUM exhibition is a gallant adventure ship, where you can investi- and are colour coded according to difficulty. gate constellations and nautical charts, and peek inside the flowpark.fi captain's quarters. JUKUPARK TUORLA ▲ ▼ forum-marinum.fi JukuPark The JukuPark water park's pirate pool paradise is a must for Botanical Garden all the little water monsters in summer. Going between the At the centre of this tropical oasis, you almost forget you’re in pool, the slides and the bouncy castle is a route they won’t PARK Finland. The Botanical Gardens of the University of Turku offer stop running until it gets dark. a diversity of wonders and plenty to explore, from the carp jukupark.fi pond to the winter garden.
sites.utu.fi/kasvitieteellinen-puutarha ADVENTURE
Adventure Park ▲ Commonly known as ‘Seikkis’, it’s a place familiar to every Kaarina Turku local. In the middle of the verdant Kupittaa Park, Seikkis
With its beaches, nature and array of activities, Kaarina is is a perfect paradise to romp and play all year round. The HOLIDAY CLUB CARIBIA CLUB HOLIDAY hugely attractive to families. Topping the recommendations entry fee is a staggering €0, so there’s room for an ice cream ▼ are Kaarina’s hiking trails as well as the medieval ruins of whilst you’re there! Kuusisto’s Bishop’s Castle - both are fascinating destinations turku.fi/seikkailupuisto
VISIT TURKU and VISIT for summer excursions. visitkaarina.fi Samppalinna Outdoor Swimming STADIUM SWIMMING Stadium JULIA LEHTILÄ, JENNI VIRTA/ILOINEN LIFTARI, LIFTARI, VIRTA/ILOINEN JENNI LEHTILÄ, JULIA photos Holiday Club Caribia The Samppalinna Outdoor Swimming Stadium provides a At Caribia spa hotel, priorities are clear: adults relax while cheap and cheerful place to chill out during summer. There’s children splash around to their heart’s content. Caribia’s pool plenty of room to splash around in the large pool and the div- complex, with its slides and pirate ship, is every kid’s dream, ing tower rises invitingly towards the sky. There’s also a pool so there’s no chance of being bored. for tots and toddlers.
JEMINA SORMUNEN JEMINA holidayclubresorts.com turku.fi/kulttuuri-ja-liikunta FUNICULAR ▼ PEKKA NOKELAINEN, IISAKKI KENNILÄ KENNILÄ IISAKKI NOKELAINEN, PEKKA text text ▲ SAMPPALINNA OUTDOOR SAMPPALINNA ▲
26 — KISS MY TURKU 2020 27
"THE UNDERGROUND IS DEAD – I WILL NOT WEEP." This THE ESSENCE OF THE is how the late writer and poet Jarkko Laine proclaimed UNDERGROUND HAS the fate of the underground in 1970. ALWAYS BEEN TO Rubbish! Nowhere has it died or come to an end! 2 CHALLENGE, TO DO It continues to thrive in clubs, at poetry and literature THINGS OF SIGNIFICANCE events, through experimental art happenings, perfor- AND TO CREATE mances and circus, as well as in small festivals. And, SOMETHING NEW. of course, in the bowls of the earth where no one has thought to look. So, where did the underground idea come from? Turku’s underground, also known as ‘U’, was the subject for Matti Komulainen and Petri Leppänen’s 1 3 investigative book ‘U Rises from the West’ (Sammakko 2009), which deals specifically with the history of the underground from a Turku perspective. UNDERGROUND It was quite the phenomenon in Turku. Leading fig- MEANS NEW ures of U’s early incarnations include familiar names, such as Jarkko Laine, the poet Markku Into and the Underground, or ‘U’ as it was known in Turku, was still active cultural personality, M.A. Numminen. Also, a phenomenon of the late 1960s. It was character- artist Harro Koskinen is rightly included in this group. ised by exploring something new and implementing For Leppänen, U exposed the core of local classics. alternative activities. U was part of an international “There’s Markku Into's novels U and Tuonela Rock, movement with strong roots in the United States. The Jarkko Laine's early novels Haamumaili and Kuin Ruu 1960s were of course a time when civic movements called countercultures gained in strength, with the missaatto, from Turku Book Café you’ll find a repro- aim of reforming and questioning the prevailing duction of Aamurusko Magazine as well as the album conservative cultural perceptions. Underground-Rock from the band Suomen Talvisota 1939-1940,” lists Leppänen. For the adventurous youth of Turku, the city was an "For me, these were some of the cornerstones, which attractive place for U to get off to a good start. Hav- ing already arranged Finland's first, scandalous rock inspired the recent multi-artistic burgeoning of our concert, Turku was also in close proximity to Sweden, band the Turku Romantic Movement." making it easy for influences to arrive from Stock- Leppänen explains that he also experienced being a holm. It also held Finland's first rock festival, organ-
small part of the U continuum, when Turku Romantic ised in the voluntary spirit of U. Nowadays, that festi- val has gone mainstream, and its name is Ruisrock.
Sometimes, the spirit of reform meant that bound- UndergroundTURKU aries were pushed. The underground movement in- cluded rebellion and outrageous art.
PUPPET THEATRE, GRAFFITI, PERFORMANCES AND In the past, for example, Harro Koskinen's Sikames- sias (Pig Messiah) was seen as sacrilegious. Today MODERN, EXPERIMENTAL MUSIC. THESE ARE ALL PART
people no longer protest art in the same way," says OF TURKU’S MODERN UNDERGROUND SCENE. THE Leppänen. LEGENDARY PHENOMENON TOOK ROOT IN TURKU IN “Nowadays, for example in punk circles, there’s a
, JEMINA SORMUNEN, SORMUNEN, , JEMINA THE 1960S AND LOOKS FAR FROM REACHING ITS PEAK, strong underground feel. No rules, everyone can WITH NEW FORMS FILLING THE CITY. participate,” Leppänen remarks. and EHKÄ-TUOTANTO The essence of the underground has always been to challenge, to do things of significance and to create
KIM ALLEN-MERSH KIM something new. For this, Turku still provides the best platform. photos photos
OMAS WENNBOM OMAS Jarkko Laine , T 1 2 Markku Into's U-Novel RAMI KANGAS RAMI M. A. Numminen OLAVI LAAKSO OLAVI text text 3
28 — KISS MY TURKU 2020 29 ALSO, DON’T FORGET THESE! NEW PHENOMENONS AND Events in Turku: INTERNATIONAL FESTIVALS U today: © Hertta Kiiski KESÄRAUHA | This trendy urban indie and alternative music festival made a huge hit in the summer of 2019 - and is sure to do so again in this summer. TAFF-FESTIVAL | TAFF is the youngest and most charming ani- POETRY WEEK FESTIVAL | Poetry Week EHKÄ-PRODUCTIONS AND KUTOMO MODERN ART | The art- kesarauha.fi mated film festival in Finland. Its international offering includes provides an opportunity for budding ist-driven Ehkä-Productions co-produces new dance and per- both short and long animated films, hosted at the Manila Cultural poets to perform. Engage with the phe- forming art, works from artist groups and collectives, projects JAZZ CITY TURKU | Jazz City Turku offers a sinful ar- Factory in August. nomena through poetry hosted in pubs and visiting productions. Ehkä runs the Kutomo contemporary ray of captivating jazz concerts throughout the year, taff.fi and cafés. art space in Turku, hosting throughout the year performanc- all over Turku. vsrunoviikko.net es, events, dance classes and workshops for different target jazzcityturku.fi VIDEOART-FESTIVAL | The VideoArt Festival, or VAFT, is an inter- groups. national video art festival held in May every year, which can be NEW PERFORMANCE FESTIVAL | New ehka.net FOOD & ART FESTIVAL | Indulgent taste sensations seen in different places across the city. Performance Turku Festival is an inter- from the hands of top chefs and bartenders, alongside videoartfestivalturku.com national performance and performing WHAT EVER WORKS | What Ever Works is an urban contempo- an enthralling programme of art. arts festival that takes place every Oc- rary music festival held in spring, an arena for new and diverse foodandart.fi AURA OF PUPPETS | Aura of tober in different parts of Turku. art. The broad-minded festival has been held since 2013. Puppets is a network of puppet newperformance.fi facebook.com/whateverworksfestival VEGÅNIA | This vegan street food festival gathers togeth- theatre professionals, produc- er stalls of venders offering attractive vegan delicacies. ing modern puppet theatre re- HIMERA – FESTIVAL OF EXPERIMENTAL MANILLA CULTURAL FACTORY AND MANIFEST FACTORY vegania.fi nowned in Finland and abroad. MUSIC | Himera in October brings music FESTIVAL | Manilla is a fertile factory for culture, housing three The Turku International Puppetry from the margins: from experiential and theatres, artists, photography studios, architectural firms and NEW POTATO FESTIVAL | At this merry festival, Turku Festival, also known as TIP-Fest, experimental music, to free improvisation, other small businesses in the locals celebrate Finland’s early potatoes by tucking in presents the cream of interna- noise music, free jazz, spontaneous pop creative industries. Held in to potato dishes with the help of a fun programme of tional puppetry. and folk music - somewhere in the galler- the art factory in September, entertainment. auraofpuppets.com ies, clubs, cellars and bars you’ll hear it all. the Manifest concept is al- neitsytperunafestivaali.fi himera.fi ready a multi-artistic event. THE BOOK HOUSE ASSOCIATION | As its name suggests, the manillantehdas.fi TURKU FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL | That’s right, this is a Book House (Kirjan Talo) is a home of books in central Turku. It op- festival where you’ll eat and drink very well, just as the erates as an office, events venue, classroom, a centre for leading name suggests. ▼ Raekallio Corp. "Muisti- workshops and for networking throughout the year. turkufoodandwinefestival.com kuvia - Recollections" photo Lauri Lundahl kirjantalo.org KONSTRUNDAN | An art event where artists open their studios and work premises for the public to admire. konstrundan.fi
Movement were accompanied by M.A. Numminen and Markku Into at the recent Down By The Laituri. Since Into's death, there to has been a severe melancholy. The casually-formed crack counter-culture team brought mul- THE HEIRS OF TURKU’S ti-dimensional culture, particular in Turku and Helsinki in the But underground has far from disappeared. UNDERGROUND mid-1960s. Characteristic of Turku’s scene were western in- “It’s unlikely to blossom as a multi-disciplinary move- fluences, especially American, such as beat and hippie move- ment like in the 1960s. Music, theatre, literature always pro- ments, rock music, comics, performances and experimental duce a counterculture to the mainstream, and that's what U poetry. The best known representation of Turku U was the rock was and still is,” Leppänen states. and performance group Suomen Talvisota 1939-1940, with its album Underground-Rock, as well as the Aamurusko maga- zine. Also, the radio programme Going Underground, broad- Explore Turku cast nationally via YLE, was actually produced by the group. MEDIEVAL MARKETS | Amidst the hustle and bustle of the medieval market, you’re sure to feel as though Today there is plenty to find in Turku. Still yet to become The Underground Anthology (1970) edited by Jarkko Laine ex- you’ve travelled in time to the heart of medieval Turku. mainstream, organised art is available, from short anima- plored the background and concepts of the movement. Numer- keskiaikaisetmarkkinat.fi ous other similar publications provided provocative content in tions to puppetry, performances to poetry and modern, ex- the spirit of beat and hippie culture. TURKU CASTLE TOURNAMENT | In summer, the park perimental music. of Turku Castle transforms into an historic battlefield, You can also discover underground-inspired unorganised Turku’s underground did start to fade but it left behind an impres- where armoured knights joust and compete in martial art in cafés and clubs, so it's always worth exploring what's sive and influential impact, as well as a new kind of independent combat. going on in the city. attitude. tournament.fi
Usually, there are all kinds of impromptu happenings The famous happenings, bands and festivals, formed from the PAAVO NURMI FESTIVAL & MARATHON | A festival and events connected with topical festivals: poetry recitals U-spirit, are now household concepts: dedicated to Turku's own running god and a running on top of a club table, or an energetic performance in the • Ruisrock • Pasi & Mysiini band event that brings the joy of exercise to all. middle of town. • Rap group Pääkköset • Turku Poetry Movement paavonurmimarathon.fi • Koneisto Festival • Down By The Laituri/DBTL
30 — KISS MY TURKU 2020 31 TURKU Aside from those presented here, *you’ll find other museums and galleries in Turku. MAGNIFICENT MUSEUMS: BIOLOGICAL MUSEUM BIOLOGICAL KUNSTHALLE ▲ ▼ * Check out everything and more at: kissmyturku.com Sibelius Museum The Sibelius Museum is a fascinating peek into the life and work of the Finnish composer and Finnish musical culture. The collection of instruments on display includes thousands of examples from Finland and around the world.
Piispankatu 17 MUSEUM ART TURKU
galleries ▲
TITANIK Turku Biological Museum ▼ & museums The Biological Museum exudes a spirit of exploration. There 12X are 13 different dioramas, or built natural landscapes, that introduce you to the fauna and flora of Finland. TANTALISING GALLERIES: Neitsytpolku 1
Kunsthalle Turku Turku Art Museum Managed cooperatively by the Turku Artists' Association and The Turku Art Museum, proudly rising from the top of Puo- the Photography Centre Peri, the art centre offers total visual lalanmäki hill, already makes a lasting impression with its grandeur. In the lobby, you’ll also find the Turku Art Loan appearance. Inside you will find Finnish national treasures GALLERY JOELLA GALLERY Centre, where you can buy and rent the artists’ works. alongside high-quality temporary exhibitions. MUSEUM HANDICRAFTS LUOSTARINMÄKI ▼ Vanha Suurtori 5 Aurakatu 26 ▲
Titanik Luostarinmäki Handicrafts Step into the city's oldest contemporary art space, Titanik! Museum There always seems to be some stunning and boldly original The Luostarinmäki area of wooden houses that survived exhibitions. Events complementing the exhibitions are held Turku’s great fire of 1827 is a small piece of history in central all the time - free ones, of course. Turku. The original houses showcase the life of artisans from Itäinen Rantakatu 8 the 18th and 19th centuries. Vartiovuorenkatu 2 TURKU CASTLE TURKU MAKASIINI CONTEMPORARY MAKASIINI ▲ ▼ Gallery Joella Whenever passing Gallery Joella, the window display of Turku Castle graphic art is just something you have to stop to admire. Turku Castle is perhaps the most iconic of Turku's attractions. This is what art is all about, with hundreds of pieces for The 700-year-old stone castle conceals engrossing stories sale from dozens of different artists. about the history of Turku and Finland as whole. Läntinen Rantakatu 21 Linnankatu 80
Makasiini Contemporary Ett Hem The historic Governor's Magazine by the cathedral hides Former bourgeois home of Alfred Jacobson, a businessman ETT HEM ETT ABOA VETUS & ARS ARS VETUS NOVA & ABOA
one of Turku's most interesting art galleries. Inspirational from Turku, and his wife Hélène. The splendid cultural home ▲ ▼ exhibitions showcase the works of impressive domestic museum is adorned with décor and art from the late 19th and and international artists. 20th centuries.
THE MUSEUM CENTRE OF TURKU OF CENTRE MUSEUM THE and Tuomiokirkonkatu 6 Piispankatu 14 JULIA LEHTILÄ, PATRICK SELIN, JEMINA JEMINA SELIN, PATRICK LEHTILÄ, JULIA photos Aboa Vetus & Ars Nova Wäinö Aaltonen Museum Aboa Vetus & Ars Nova is an experiential museum of arche- The Wäinö Aaltonen Museum houses temporary exhibitions MUSEUM ology and contemporary art. Under the same roof you can of contemporary art, workshops as well as events. Also on explore the ruins of medieval Turku as well as take a tour of display are Aaltonen's own works such as drawings, graphic
JEMINA SORMUNEN JEMINA the impressive art exhibitions. art and sketches. WÄINÖ AALTONEN MUSEUM AALTONEN WÄINÖ SIBELIUS SORMUNEN, TERRI VAHTERA TERRI VAHTERA SORMUNEN, text text ▼ ▼ Itäinen Rantakatu 4–6 Itäinen Rantakatu 38
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25 43 45 46 41 Turku – A compact 35 24 8 67 26 10 4 42 95 7 yet versatile city 81 98 66 103 79 60 91 88 57 53 76 85 55 73 62 59 Turku is a compact city that is easy to manage. 33 99 90 51 17 38 23 94 50 13 82 80 75 27 56 92 1 70 78 64 Everything you need is conveniently close by and distances 72 12 97 69 63 61 93 84 are best covered either on foot or by bicycle. 54 83 71 32 47 2 11 39 Delightfully simple and yet also great for the environment. 100 44 74 6 40 65 102 68 104 28 37 30 9 77 3 15 34 16 20 87 14 52
58 19 18 86 48 36 © Mika Kurkilahti © Mika 89 5
WANT TO EXPLORE TURKU ON FOOT? Ooo – yes please! The Visit Turku family of Walking Tour products offer the opportunity 21 49 to experience Turku from many different angles. Choose a theme that interests you, get your walking shoes on and broaden 101 22 your knowledge of Turku. A charmingly engaging idea for both visitors and locals.
VISIT TURKU and VISIT
HISTORY, MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES FUN FOR KIDS 52 Paavo Nurmi Stadium 83 Gunnar Eatery & Bar 1 Aboa Vetus & Ars Nova 28 Adventure Park 53 Turku Cathedral 84 Bassi 2 Pharmacy Museum & 29 SuperPark 54 St Michael’s Church 85 Hügge Qwensel House 30 Samppalinna Outdoor 55 Turku Market Square 86 Nooa FOOD WALK RIVERSIDE WALK WALK & SEA 3 Biological Museum Swimming Stadium 56 Turku Market Hall 87 Kakolanruusu 4 Ett Hem 31 JukuPark 57 Vähätori Square 88 Panini Calling all gastronomists – grab yourself This great mini-tour goes right to the After first following the River Aura along 5 Forum Marinum 32 Flowpark 58 Funicular 89 Göran 6 Luostarinmäki a Food Walk card and venture forth on heart of Turku. A guided walking tour its shores, hop on a waterbus to the Handicrafts Museum THEATRE AND ENTERTAINMENT CAFES, RESTAURANTS AND SHOPPING Turku's most delicious walking trail! taking you along the River Aura shores, Island of Ruissalo, providing a great 7 Sibelius Museum 33 Linnateatteri Theatre NIGHTCLUBS 90 Hansa Shopping Centre Forks at the ready as you taste the best adored by every fan of Turku, feasting on overall picture of the true nature of Turku. 8 Turku Art Museum 34 Samppalinna Summer 59 Tiirikkala Cafe and Restaurant 91 Sokos Wiklund restaurants in town. Choose the most urban art, historic buildings and cultural Enjoyed alongside the stories from a Visit 9 Wäinö Aaltonen Museum Theatre 60 Brahen Kellari 92 Midas Goldsmiths fascinating five restaurants from the list Turku guide. 10 Makasiini Contemporary 35 Dance Theatre ERI 61 Café Art 93 KUI Design sites along the way. 11 Galleria Joella 36 TEHDAS Theatre 62 Café Brahe 94 PUF Design Market of ten, walk, eat and enjoy. 12 Titanik 37 Turku City Theatre 63 di Trevi MIKA KURKILAHTI / A1 MEDIA OY, JULIA LEHTILÄ LEHTILÄ JULIA OY, MEDIA A1 / KURKILAHTI MIKA 13 Kunsthalle Turku 38 Åbo Svenska Teater 64 E. Ekblom ACCOMMODATION AND SPAS 39 Turku Open-Air Theatre 65 Grill it! Marina 95 Centro Hotel NB! There are a limited number of places ON THE WATER 40 Turku Youth Theatre 66 Gustavo 96 Holiday Club Caribia photos photos for tours. Buy tickets in advance from Visit 14 M/S Lily 41 Aura of Puppets 67 Hus Lindman 97 Solo Sokos Hotel 15 S/S Ukkopekka 42 Finnkino Cinema 68 Kaskis Turun Seurahuone Turku's online shop or at the Tourist Infor- 16 M/S Rudolfina 43 Logomo 69 Ludu 98 Hotel Scandic Julia mation Centre to be sure of a seat. 17 Låna Picnic Boats 70 M Kitchen & Cafe 99 Hotel Scandic Plaza Tourist Information 18 Buster Rent MUSIC AND CULTURE 71 Brewery Restaurant Koulu 100 Hotel Scandic Atrium Are your feet starting to twitch with Aurakatu 2, 20100 Turku (Spring 2020: Aurakatu 8) 19 Föri 44 The Book House 72 Piece of Cake – MBakery Café 101 Hotel Seaport Tel: +358 (0)2 2627 444 | [email protected] | visitturku.tv 20 Föli Waterbus 45 Turku Concert Hall 73 Pinella 102 Radisson Blu Marina 21 Tallink Silja 46 Turku Philharmonic Orchestra 74 Sergio’s Palace Hotel JEMINA SORMUNEN JEMINA curiosity? Explore all the themed See opening hours: www.visitturku.fi 22 Viking Line 47 Regional Dance Centre of 75 Smör 103 Original Sokos Hotel text text Walking Tours at ▶ visitturku.fi Western Finland 76 Tårget Wiklund GETTING AROUND 48 AB Dance Company 77 Vaakahuone Pavillion 104 Ruissalo Spa Hotel Buy hotel and other travel packages online: 23 Föli Transport Service Office 78 Viking Restaurant Harald 105 Naantali Spa Hotel www.visitturku.fi/en/shop-online 24 Avis Car Rental TOP ATTRACTIONS 79 Roster 25 Turku Bus Station 49 Turku Castle 80 Fontana 26 Turku Main Railway Station 50 Old Great Square 81 Walo Rooftop Bar 34 — KISS MY TURKU 2020 27 Kupittaa Railway Station 51 Turku City Library 82 Hesburger TURKU ARCHIPELAGO 40,000 islands and islets – you can’t go wrong.
The Turku Archipelago is bordered to the east by Turku, to the west by the Åland Islands, in the south by the Bengtskär lighthouse and in the north by the Bothnian Sea. In its entirety, it includes about 40,000 islands and islets, making it the most numerous in the world. It is also a world-class wildlife destination, where the majestic Sea Eagle is just one example of the fauna on display. The bird of prey was endan- gered more than a decade ago but now the archipelago’s Sea Eagle population numbers in the hundreds.
In this brochure you'll find many ways to reach the Turku Archipelago. More destinations, connections, tips and ideas at: kissmyturku.com
TURKU'S ARCHIPELAGO IS THE LARGEST IN THE WORLD AND MANY ALSO SAY MOST BEAUTIFUL. BOOK YOUR VISIT AND YOU’LL SOON UNDERSTAND WHY.