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un’autonomia di marcia di sette giorni. Con l’indice 36 interna in ferro dolce per la protezione dai campi magnetici, triangolare posizionato sotto la minuteria e gli indici dei Vetro zaffiro, antidecompressione, Incisione speciale sul • 5 minuti più sottili, il quadrante evoca il modello origi- fondello, Impermeabile 6 bar, Diametro 46 mm, Cinturino in nale del 1940. Non sorprende quindi la definizione di pelle di vitello di Santoni review CAPRI COPIA OMAGGIO • COMPLIMENTARY COPY • n. 36

1994 - 2016 Con il Patrocinio di:

Comune di Anacapri
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Periodico di turismo, cultura, attualità Anno XXIII - N. 3 6 - 2016 Registrazione al Tribunale di Roma n. 83/94 dell’11.3.94

Dentro l’isola 36 Azzurra 36 39 Io e le statue di Riccardo Esposito 44 50 sfumature di Capri di Simona Schettino 66 Lo spettacolo del parco di Rossella Funghi 73 Un gioiello nascosto di Silvia Baldassarre 78 La scala nella roccia di Alessandro Scoppa 86 L’isola in versi di Daniela Liguori

Starring 26 Iaia Forte intervista di Claudia Catalli 26

People 51 51 Un tuffo al cuore 128 In barba al mondo 92 di Marilena D’Ambro Curiosità 133 Il rito della rasatura 92 Quanti amori di Renato Esposito

3 Editore, Direzione e Redazione Capritudine L’isola del gusto PRC Srl 135 Uno stato mentale 165 Must eat via Germanico, 197 - 00192 Roma telefoni 063215923 - 063243010 140 Lo specchio salato fax 063242857 di Antonello De Nicola Tradizioni prcsrl.com - [email protected] 146 In volo 170 È festa! Direttore Responsabile di Antonella Maresca di Riccardo Esposito Rossella Funghi [email protected]

Hanno collaborato: Silvia Baldassarre, Claudia Catalli, Marilena D’Ambro, Umberto D’Aniello, Antonello De Nicola, Costantino Esposito, Davide Esposito, Renato Esposito, Riccardo Esposito, Martina Federico, Fabio Finocchioli, Fotoflash, 140 Riccardo Ghilardi, Daniela Liguori, Antonella Maresca, Raffaele Lello Mastroianni, Simona Schettino, Alessandro Scoppa

Impaginazione Flavio Costantino

Traduzioni Scriptum - Roma Fashion Capri mood Copertina 112 Spirito caprese 102 Let the sunshine in Enrico Desiderio 104 Codice variabile La mostra 106 Unici Pubblicità 108 Giro giro tondo PRC Srl via Germanico, 197 - 00192 Roma 138 Le stagioni del mare 110 Casual and chic telefoni 063215923 - 063243010 di Silvia Baldassarre fax 063242857 Shopping caprireview.it - [email protected]

Itinerari 180 Un tempo raro e prezioso Stampa Eccigraphica - Roma 152 Guarda dove metti i piedi 182 La cura dei dettagli 184 Silhouette unica Distribuzione 186 Per una casa vestita su misura Gambardella Service - Capri

È vietata la riproduzione anche parziale dei testi senza il permesso dell’Editore. Chiuso in tipografia il 05.06.16

Tutto Capri 152 189 Hotel, Ristoranti, Rubriche Stabilimenti balneari, Locali notturni, 9 Notes Numeri utili 16 Libri 21 Musica 24 Zoom 123 Capri Beauty caprireview.it 159 Capri Must Have 112 196 Il diario di Mercurio Capri Review 4 La Parisienne CAPRI DAL 1906 anni 110 di storia

www.laparisiennecapri.it piazza Umberto I, 7 - tel. 081.8370283 notes Il belvedere del raggio verde Jules Verne gli ha dedicato un romanzo. È ambientato in Scozia e racconta la storia di una ragazza che decide di rinviare le sue nozze con un uomo buffo e saccente fino a quando non avrà visto il “raggio verde” che il sole lancia prima di tramon- tare in mare. Finirà per sposare un pittore di tramonti. Al raggio verde sull’isola azzurra è stato in- vece dedicato un belvedere. Si trova nel giardino di Villa Lysis ed è da qui che nelle © RAFFAELE LELLO MASTROIANNI giornate estive, all’ora del tramonto, se sa- The belvedere of the green ray. Jules Verne in the garden of Villa Lysis, and on summer rete fortunati potrete scorgere quel raggio dedicated a novel to it: set in Scotland, it days here at sunset, you might, if you’re verde-azzurro che l’ultimo arco di sole re- tells the story of a girl who decides to defer lucky, glimpse that green-blue ray given out gala prima di scomparire. Può accadere her marriage to a rather comical, self- by the last curve of the sun before it solo con determinate condizioni atmosferi- important character until he’s seen the disappears. It only happens under certain che e la leggenda vuole che colui che è “green ray” emitted by the sun just before it specific atmospheric conditions and legend tanto fortunato da assistervi non possa più sinks into the sea. She ends up marrying an has it that those lucky enough to see it will essere ingannato con illusioni e menzogne, artist who paints sunsets. never again be deceived by illusions or lies, vedendo chiaro nel proprio cuore e in But on Capri it’s a belvedere that has been but will see clearly into their own hearts and quello degli altri. dedicated to the green ray. It can be found the hearts of others.

Sotto il segno di Viviani Due serate dedicate a una delle voci più illustri e struggenti di Napoli, Raffaele Viviani. Si inizia il 5 ago- sto, ai Giardini Paradiso di Anacapri, con “In viaggio con Papele” per la regia di Roberto Giordano, che ne sarà anche interprete insieme a Monica Assante di Tatisso. Un viaggio nel mondo dell’artista Viviani dove si celebrano i suoi esordi, i suoi primi dolori e “la fame” ne è il tema portante. I due protagonisti in- terpretano due attori al massimo del precariato che tirano a campare rappresentando ciò che più li ri- specchia, la miseria. Quella miseria dignitosa, sofferta in silenzio che fa capo al primo Viviani. Porta invece in scena il tema dell’amore l’attrice e cantante Lalla Esposito in “E primme vase tuoie l’aggio avute io”, un percorso nell’universo dei sentimenti attraverso parole, musica e canzoni. Ad accompagnarla, il 6 agosto nello scenario di Villa San Michele, Mimmo Napolitano al pianoforte, Giuseppe Di Colandrea al sax e clarinetto, e Luigi Sigillo al contrabbasso.

An evening of Viviani. Two evenings dedicated to one of the most illustrious and poignant voices to come out of Naples: Raffaele Viviani. It begins on 5 August, in the Giardini Paradiso in Anacapri, with “In viaggio con Papele”, directed by Roberto Giordano, who also acts in it along with Monica Assante di Tatisso. It’s a journey into the world of the artist Viviani, celebrating the beginning of his career, his © PEPE RUSSO first sorrows, and the “hunger” that is the leitmotif. The protagonists play two actors with a total lack of job security, who struggle to make a living by performing what most reflects their own situation: poverty. That dignified poverty, suffered in silence, drawing on Viviani’s early days. Meanwhile, actress and singer Lalla Esposito brings the theme of love to the stage in “E primme vase tuoie l’aggio avute io”, a journey into the world of the emotions through words, music and song. Accompanying her, on 6 August in the setting of the Villa San Michele, is Mimmo Napolitano on the piano, Giuseppe Di Colandrea on sax and clarinet and Luigi Sigillo on the double bass. info: kaireartecapri.it

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Neruda in scena Non solo concerti un sogno che si avvera” con Antonio È il gennaio del 1952 quando Pablo Neruda Una rassegna di concerti, ma non solo, Parascandolo e Margherita Romeo per la sbarca a Capri. Non è solo. Lo accompagna nello splendido scenario di Villa San regia di Alexander Nordstrom. Matilde Urrutia, il grande amore della sua Michele. Torna anche quest’anno la vita, in quegli anni ancora compagna segreta, rassegna promossa dalla Fondazione Axel Not only concerts. A programme of concerts poi moglie dal 1955. La magia della sua poe- Munthe che vedrà salire sul palco artisti but much more besides, in the splendid setting sia e il grande amore vissuto con Matilde internazionali dal repertorio classico, jazz of the Villa San Michele. The programme sull’isola azzurra rivivono nella performance o contemporaneo. Oltre agli appuntamenti organized by the Fondazione Axel Munthe is teatrale con la regia e la drammaturgia di Gio- musicali, con la direzione artistica del back again this year, with international artists vanni De Luise per uno degli eventi estivi che pianista Love Derwinger, la villa ospiterà from the classical, jazz and contemporary portano la firma di Nesea eventi culturali. incontri letterari, mostre di pittura e, il 23 repertoires. In addition to the musical events, Tra il reale e il surreale, il famoso matrimonio luglio, lo spettacolo teatrale “San Michele, with artistic direction by pianist Love al chiaro di luna tra il poeta e la sua amata Derwinger, the villa will also host porterà lo spettatore in atmosfere suggestive, literary events, art exhibitions tra ironia e commozione. Alternandosi alla and, on 23 July, the drama “San lettura delle celebri poesie dello scrittore ci- Michele, un sogno che si avvera” leno, gli attori accompagneranno gli spetta- (“San Michele, a dream that came tori in un ambiente magico a metà strada tra true”) with Antonio Parascandolo il passato e il presente. Il tutto vissuto nel and Margherita Romeo, directed info: villasanmichele.eu • 081.837.1401 suggestivo belvedere di Tragara e dell’incan- by Alexander Nordstrom. © RAFFAELE LELLO MASTROIANNI tevole panorama della baia di Marina Piccola. In scena il 21 luglio alle ore 19. Un taxi di nome Tiberio Sette posti, coda allungata a mo’ di poppa e al posto del bagagliaio una vera e propria “spiag- getta” da barca con il pianale rifinito in teak e mogano. Si chiama Tiberio ed è nato da una Fiat 500L Living modificata dalla carrozzeria Castagna. Bianco con le modanature azzurre, ha il padiglione rivestito in alcantara blu-Capri e una doccetta (con la canna lunga quattro Neruda on stage. Pablo Neruda first arrived metri) è ben nascosta in uno dei gavoni laterali del vano, per sciacquare al bisogno la vet- on Capri in January 1952. He wasn’t alone; in tura. Per chiamarlo e farsi portare in giro per l’isola azzurra: tel. 333.7300511 fact, he was accompanied by Matilde Urrutia, the great love of his life, and at that time still A taxi called Tiberio. Seven seats, an extended rear like the stern of a boat and a proper his secret companion, who went onto become aft deck in place of a boot, with the surface finished in teak and mahogany. It’s called Tiberio his wife in 1955. The magic of his poetry and and was created from a Fiat 500L Living, modified by the Castagna car body company. White the great love he experienced with Matilde with blue mouldings, the canopy is covered in Capri-blue alcantara fabric, while a hosepipe on the azure isle are brought to life again in (with a 4-metre hose) is tucked away in one of the interior side lockers, ready to wash the a stage performance arranged and directed vehicle when necessary. To call one for a trip around Capri: ph. 333.7300511 by Giovanni De Luise, one of the summer events organized by Nesea cultural events. In a combination of the real and the surreal, the famous moonlight wedding between the poet and his beloved leads the audience through evocative scenes that are both amusing and moving. In alternation with readings from the works of the famous Chilean poet, the actors will accompany the spectators into a magical environment halfway between the past and the present. It all takes place in the beautiful setting of the Belvedere at Tragara, with the enchanting panorama of the bay of Marina Piccola. On 21 July at 19.00. info: neseacapri.it

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Un’isola per tutti An island for everyone. The association “Capri senza barrier” (Capri Per un’isola accessibile a tutti, sia dal punto di vista architettonico without barriers) was set up to create an island accessible to everyone, che sociale, è nata l’associazione Capri senza barriere. La vo- both architecturally and socially. The intention is to break down lontà è quella di abbattere le barriere, visibili e invisibili, e barriers, both visible and invisible, and to make life easier for agevolare le persone con disabilità, sia fisiche che psichi- people with disabilities, whether physical or mental, as well che, ma anche i loro familiari e gli amici con i quali tra- as for their friends and relatives, so that they can spend scorrere giornate indimenticabili e allo stesso tempo unforgettable and accessible days together on the island. The accessibili sull’isola. Il progetto, condiviso con i Comuni di project, implemented with the help of the Capri and Anacapri Capri e Anacapri e con le associazioni di categoria, ha come town councils and trade associations, aims to eliminate not only obiettivo l’eliminazione non solo degli ostacoli materiali, ma anche the material obstacles but also the prejudices faced by those with i pregiudizi nei confronti della disabilità, di qualunque tipo essa sia. disabilities, of whatever type they may be. info: caprisenzabarriere.com

Amici a quattro zampe Our four-footed friends. Pet adoption, Adozioni, sterilizzazioni, sterilizations, veterinary treatment and a cure veterinarie, ma commitment to making Capri a “pet anche l’impegno per far friendly” island. These are some of the diventare Capri un’isola “pet activities of the ten-year-old voluntary friendly”. È l’attività che da quasi association “I Migliori Amici”, which looks Dieci anni di birra dieci anni svolgono i volontari dell’associa- after stray animals with great devotion and Nasce quasi per gioco durante una zione I migliori Amici che con grande pas- seeks to promote greater love and respect serata in cui i tre fratelli Brunetti, sione si prendono cura degli animali for our four-footed friends. It’s a daily task, Mirko, Fabrizio e Paolo, si ritrovano randagi e cercano di sensibilizzare al- including fund-raising, particularly in order per una degustazione nel bar di fa- l’amore e al rispetto degli amici a quattro to cover the veterinary expenses for miglia, il Grotta Azzurra di Anacapri. zampe, e non solo. Un impegno quotidiano controlling the population of cat colonies. Era il 2006 quando viene imbotti- anche per la raccolta dei fondi che servono Association members will be happy to gliata la prima “bionda” made in a coprire soprattutto le spese veterinarie receive help from anyone who is Capri, una birra artigianale morbida, per il controllo delle nascite delle colonie interested in their activities and who fresca, leggera. Da allora I’etichetta feline. Per chi fosse interessato alle attività, wants to give a little of their time or make “Birra di Capri” si è andata sempre oltre che a delle donazioni, i soci saranno a donation. più affermando e ha superato i con- felici di accogliere quanti vorranno dedi- info: [email protected] fini dell’isola con le sue cinque pro- care un po’ di tempo o il proprio contributo. facebook: I Migliori Amici. Capri poste per soddisfare al meglio i palati e i gusti più esigenti.

birracapri.com © RAFFAELE LELLO MASTROIANNI

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Una favola in libertà gnare le azioni sceniche. Protagonisti e and a poisoned apple. We’re talking about È forse la favola più popolare ed è nata animatori Alfredo Giraldi e Luana Martucci. Snow White, of course, that most kids will dalla fantasia dei fratelli Grimm. Racconta have seen in the magical version by that di una regina, di uno specchio magico e di A fairytale for outdoors. It is perhaps the genius Walt Disney, in his animated film. The una mela avvelenata. Parliamo, ovvia- most popular fairytale of all, and story is being staged by La Carrozza d’Oro mente, di Biancaneve che forse la maggior comes from the imagination of the theatre company, under the auspices of the parte dei più piccini ha visto sullo Brothers Grimm. Kaire Arte Capri association, on 13 August schermo magicamente narrata da quel The story of (Piazza Edwin Cerio - Anacapri), using genio di Walt Disney. A cura dell’associa- a queen, Shadow Theatre techniques with zione Kaire Arte Capri, la compagnia tea- a magic brightly coloured outlines, a trale La Carrozza d’Oro la mette in scena mirror dialogue composed of nursery rhymes, il 13 agosto (piazza Edwin Cerio - Anaca- and music to accompany the dramatic pri) utilizzando le tecniche del teatro di fi- action. The actors and entertainers are gura con le sue sagome colorate, i dialoghi Alfredo Giraldi and Luana Martucci. fatti di filastrocche, la musica ad accompa- info: kaireartecapri.it © LA CARROZZA D’ORO

Tra musica e storie episodi e curiosità sarà Renato Esposito, profondo conoscitore della Uno spettacolo tra racconto e musica nello scenario del monte So- storia dell’isola azzurra. La scaletta del concerto prevede brani di laro alla suggestiva luce del tramonto. Un omaggio a Capri attra- ogni epoca che autori di varie nazionalità hanno dedicato a Capri, verso la voce di Nicole Renaud accompagnata dalla sua inseparabile da Qui sotto il cielo di Capri a Luna caprese passando per Capri c’est fisarmonica, dalla voce del tenore caprese Mario Bindi e dal violon- fini e molte alte. In programma per l’11 agosto. cellista Marco Pescosolido. Il mito, la dimensione romantica e ma- gica di Capri e la malinconia che qui diventa “capritudine” saranno Music and history. A performance of words and music in the setting i tre nuclei in cui si articolerà lo spettacolo. A raccontarne aneddoti, of Monte Solaro, in the enchanting light of sunset. A homage to Capri through the voice of Nicole Renaud, accompanied by his inseparable accordion, the voice of Capri tenor Mario Bindi and cellist Marco Pescosolido. The legend, the romantic and magical aspect of Capri and the melancholy that turns into “Capritude” here provide the three core themes on which the performance is structured. Anecdotes, episodes and interesting facts about Capri will be narrated by Renato Esposito, someone with a deep knowledge of the history of the azure isle. The concert programme includes passages dedicated to Capri by composers of various nationalities D’ANIELLO from all historical periods, from Qui sotto il cielo di Capri to Luna caprese, Capri c’est

© UMBERTO fini and many more. On 11 August.

14 libri Giancarmine Arena Light in Black & White. Capri Autopubblicato 40 €

Anche chi non È Capri l’unica protagonista, che sfacciata to our senses. All observers will be able to ha mai visto e fiera emerge dalle pagine e, anche in read in the black and white of the images Capri dal vivo bianco e nero, riesce a trasmettere la stessa the gradations of colour that best match la “conosce” o potenza dei colori. their state of mind, their memories, their “riconosce” dai experiences or the idea that they have colori e dalle Even those who have never seen Capri at acquired of this magical place. mille sfumature firsthand, know it or recognize it from the Nature dominates over everything, with che il suo paesaggio riesce a colours and the thousand gradations that its particularly vivid and intense profiles of the regalare in ogni stagione. Viene naturale landscape manages to offer in every season. landscape that are almost surreal in some chiedersi, allora, se un libro fotografico in So the question naturally arises: can a book shots, and where we are struck by the absence bianco e nero possa rappresentare l’isola in of black and white photographs represent of people. This absence is central, even when maniera coerente e veritiera. La risposta è sì! the island in a consistent and genuine way? the photographs feature the architecture of Le 64 fotografie realizzate da Giancarmine The answer is definitely ‘Yes’! the island, famous or otherwise. Arena ci mostrano un’isola ricca di poesia The 64 photographs taken by Giancarmine Capri is the only true protagonist, emerging e le luci catturate dall’obiettivo della mac- Arena show us an island full of poetry, and from the pages bold and proud, and it china fotografica restituiscono ai sensi the different light captured by his camera manages to transmit the same power of its un’idea di colore tutta personale. Ogni os- lens restores a very personal idea of colour colours even in black and white. servatore potrà leggere nel bianco e nero delle immagini la sfumatura di colore che MARIANO DELLA CORTE - I sentieri dell’anima più si addice al proprio stato d’animo, al Editore Ventrella&CP - 10 € proprio ricordo, al proprio vissuto o all’idea che ci si è fatti di questo posto magico. È un approccio nuovo e particolare quello di Mariano Della Corte che ci presenta Su tutto domina la natura con profili paesag- l’isola di Capri come è raro vedere: intima, mistica, a tratti magica. gistici particolarmente vivi e intensi, quasi Abituati a sentir parlare del “salotto del mondo” a volte ci sfugge l’idea del- l’isola azzurra come piccola-grande casa dove si può trovare di tutto. Tra que- surreali in alcuni scatti, e dove si percepisce sto tutto, in particolare, ci sono percorsi e sentieri che arrivano negli angoli fortemente l’assenza dell’uomo. Questa as- più nascosti dove, a volte dimenticate e spesso sconosciute al grande pub- senza è protagonista anche quando ad es- blico, si nascondono piccole chiese ed eremitaggi dove l’anima può ritrovare sere ritratte sono le architetture più o meno se stessa. Sono questi, appunto, I sentieri dell’anima che l’autore descrive con dovizia di particolari e che ogni lettore può seguire e approfondire a seconda famose dell’isola. del proprio stato d’animo. Sono percorsi in cui si ritrova e riscopre il valore di un ritmo più lento dove protagonista diventa l’isola nella sua dimensione più intima e segreta.

Mariano Della Corte’s approach is a new and unusual one, presenting the island of Capri in a way we rarely see it: as intimate, mystical and, at times, magical. We are so used to hearing about the “world’s drawing-room” that we don’t tend to think of the azure isle as a house, both large and small, where you can find everything. And that includes trails and footpaths that take you into its most secret corners where, sometimes forgotten and often unknown to the general public, you can find small churches and hermitages where the soul can find itself again. These are the paths of the soul of the title, described by the author with a wealth of detail so that every reader can follow and explore them, depending on their own state of mind. They are trails where you can rediscover and regain appreciation of a slower pace of life, where the island takes centre stage in its most intimate and secret aspects.

16 libri

Andrea Nastri Futurismo ebbero modo di island, the more I fear its effects Giuliana Vespere (a cura di) sfruttare il palcoscenico isolano on my art.” 1914/2014. Cent’anni in occasione del Convegno sul The eclecticism of the azure isle, paesaggio del 1922 che vide tra together with its eccentricity and di architettura futurista gli altri Marinetti, Marchi e Cla- originality, represented the Clean Edizioni - 20 € vel tra i relatori. illusion of a “Centre of intellectual Teorie, idee, progetti e studi production and protection,” as condivisi in quel contesto, in- theorized by Edwin Cerio, who sieme a tutta la poetica futurista was the mayor of Capri. And it is Un rapporto intenso ma contro- che ha avuto Capri come prota- thanks to Cerio that the verso legò Capri e il Futurismo gonista, sono ampiamente de- exponents of Futurism were able perché l’isola fu senza dubbio scritte in un capitolo del libro to exploit the island setting on the una fonte di irresistibile attra- curato da Andrea Nastri e Giu- occasion of the conference on zione e di grande ispirazione, L’eclettismo dell’isola azzurra, liana Vespere 1914/2014. Cen- landscape in 1922, that included ma fu anche il simbolo esplicito insieme alla sua eccentricità e t’anni di architettura futurista. Marinetti, Marchi and Clavel delle contraddizioni della poe- originalità, rappresentarono il Storici dell’arte e dell’architet- among the speakers. tica futurista. Non a caso lo miraggio di un “Centro di produ- tura, critici e progettisti hanno Theories, ideas, projects and stesso Marinetti, padre del- zione e protezione intellettuale” contribuito, con i propri scritti, studies shared in that context, l’avanguardia, ammise: «Più teorizzato da Edwin Cerio che di a legittimare l’influenza del pen- together with the entire futurist amo quest’isola e più ne temo gli Capri era il sindaco. E proprio siero futurista in ambito cultu- philosophy in which Capri played effetti sulla mia arte». grazie a Cerio gli esponenti del rale così come nelle architetture a central role, are amply described contemporanee. Un elogio del in a chapter of the book edited gusto del leggero, del pratico, by Andrea Nastri and Giuliana dell’effimero e del veloce oltre Vespere, 1914/2014. Cent’anni ANNALENA CIMINO che della caducità e transitorietà di architettura futurista. L’amante della luna. che, in maniera profetica, hanno Art and architecture historians, Poesie e aforismi Intermedia Edizioni - 10 € plasmato anche il pensiero di critics and architects have tempi molto distanti tra loro. contributed, through their Anche se non parlano in maniera esplicita di Capri, le poesie di Anna- lena Cimino lasciano trasparire uno spirito legato all’isola nel profondo. E non solo perché l’autrice sull’isola azzurra vi è nata, ma soprattutto perché lo spirito caprese- anacaprese è ben evidente nella percezione dei colori, dei profumi dei fiori e del mare. L’isola in questa raccolta è come una lente d’ingrandi- mento che amplifica la percezione e la tra- sforma in versi universali. It is an intense but controversial writings, to legitimizing the Even when it isn’t specifically about Capri, relationship that links Capri and influence of futurist thought in the Annalena Cimino’s poetry lets us breathe the spirit Futurism, because although the field of culture as well as in that is profoundly connected with the island. It isn’t island was certainly a source of contemporary architecture. It is a just that the author was born on Capri, but more irresistible attraction and great eulogy to the taste for lightness particularly that the Capri-Anacapri spirit is very inspiration, it was also the explicit and practicality, for the ephemeral evident in the perception of the colours, the scents symbol of the contradictions of and the fast, as well as for the of the flowers and the smell of the sea. In this the futurist artistic philosophy. It transience and impermanence collection, the island is like a magnifying lens that is no coincidence that Marinetti, that also, prophetically, moulded amplifies our perceptions and transforms them into the father of the avant-garde, the philosophy of periods far universal poetry. admitted: “The more I love this removed from each other in time. VIA FUORLOVADO, 1 CAPRI 18 WWW.CABANAGLOBALLUXE.COM musica

Riccardo Pecoraro Madre del Mare © RAFFAELE LELLO MASTROIANNI

Con Capri nel cuore prosegue a suonarla e a scrivere sempre su ritmi che affondano le radici nella più assiduamente. «Se avessi studiato mu- world music. Raccontano, con tanta poe- Non poteva che essere così. La sua musica sica - dice - forse certe canzoni non sareb- sia e un po’ di ironia, Capri nelle sue re- profuma di mare e come il mare è multi- bero nate». altà stagionali. forme. Ma come nascono i suoi pezzi? «Negli anni Inevitabile che Capri torni in più di un Chitarra e voce solista, suonatore di arie cor- si sedimenta, nel cuore e nella mente, del brano perché, dice, «provo a raccontare la tesi sulle corde del liuto per il progetto Rosa materiale che poi si trasforma in note. mia natura di isolano, il mio rapporto con Antiqua, interprete della canzone napole- Nasce la musica e arrivano le parole. In- questa terra straordinaria. Un rapporto tana classica e di quella moderna. E poi un sieme. Ci posso mettere un paio d’ore o un spesso inquieto, ma d’altra parte lo sono forte legame con i ritmi andini e gli omaggi paio di giorni. Posso ripescare una musica tutti i grandi amori». Cantando di Capri poi ai cantautori in uno stile molto personale. dopo vent’anni e trovare finalmente le pa- è difficile ignorare quella distesa azzurra Insomma, Riccardo Pecoraro. Caprese con role adatte, ma quella canzone è nata nel che la circonda. la musica nel cuore e nell’anima. Prolifico momento in cui ho dato forma a quel sen- L’ultima raccolta firmata e scaricabile negli compositore ed interprete. E figlio d’arte, timento che per un certo tempo è passato store digitali si chiama Madre del Mare, di quel Ninni Pecoraro pittore solare del attraverso di me». dove il mare è il filo blu che lega tutti i paesaggio di Capri. Un musicista che ama mescolarsi ad altri pezzi che la compongono e di cui è autore. Una passione, quella per la musica, che ir- artisti e a progetti diversi che negli anni Dalla più vecchia, Navi, alla più recente rompe improvvisa quando nel 1973, poco hanno dato vita a più di un gruppo. Lo ac- che le dà il nome. Quel mare che «acca- più che bambino, il padre porta a casa un compagnano e spesso interpretano le sue rezza e imprigiona, che circonda. Quel- disco degli Inti-Illimani, quel Viva Chile! canzoni alcune tra le voci femminili più l’orizzonte che spesso ci limita ma che può che il gruppo aveva terminato di registrare belle dell’isola: Eleonora D’Aniello, Sara servire ad andare oltre». E così parla di bu- in uno studio milanese tre giorni prima del Lionetti, Serena Vinaccia. fere marine in acquari quadrati, di barche colpo di stato che spodestò il presidente Al- Ed è dedicata alla sua isola Capri Suite, di carta, di tempeste in bottiglie di vetro. liende e diede inizio ad una brutale repres- l’opera da poco terminata di scrivere e Melodie che contengono emozioni, narrate sione nel paese. Riccardo inizia a ora in fase di registrazione. Nove canzoni con passione da questo cantautore con lo strimpellare la chitarra e da autodidatta sul tema delle quattro stagioni musicate sguardo color del mare. ▼

21 musica © RAFFAELE LELLO MASTROIANNI

With Capri in his heart had studied music, perhaps some of my through its seasons, with lots of poetry It couldn’t be any other way. His music songs would never have been composed,” and a touch of humour. It is inevitable that smells of the sea and is multifarious like the he says. But how does he compose his Capri should feature in several pieces sea. He performs with guitar and solo voice, songs? “Over the years, material settles because, says Pecoraro, “I try to express plays courtly airs on the lute for the Rosa into my heart and mind and then it turns my nature as an islander and my Antiqua project, and sings classical and into notes. The music comes and the words relationship with this remarkable land. It’s modern Neapolitan songs. He feels a strong arrive. Together. It might take a couple of a relationship that is often troubled, but bond with the rhythms of Andean music, hours, or a couple of days. I can dig out a that’s the way with all great loves, after and plays homages to singer-songwriters in piece of music after twenty years and finally all.” And singing about Capri, it’s difficult to his own highly personal way. He is Riccardo find the words that are right for it, but that ignore the stretch of blue that surrounds it. Pecoraro, a native of Capri, born with music song was born the moment that I gave His last collection, which can be in his heart and soul. A prolific composer shape to the feeling that passed through downloaded from digital stores, is called and performer, he was born into an artistic me at a particular time.” He is a musician Madre del Mare (Mother of the Sea), with family, the son of Ninni Pecoraro, a sunny who likes to mix with other artists and work the sea as the blue thread running through painter of Capri landscapes.His passion for on different projects, which has led to more it and linking all the pieces that make up music erupted suddenly, when in 1973, than one group being formed over the the album, all composed by Pecoraro. From while he was still little more than a child, his years. Some of the most beautiful female the oldest, Navi (Ships), to the most recent India father brought home a record by Inti- voices on the island accompany him and that gave its name to the album. The sea Illimani, Viva Chile!, which the group had often interpret his songs: Eleonora “that caresses and imprisons, that finished recording in a Milan studio three D’Aniello, Sara Lionetti and Serena surrounds. That horizon that often limits us, days before the coup that deposed Vinaccia. And Capri Suite, the album he has but that is also there to go beyond.” And so President Allende and marked the start of a just finished which is currently being he talks of storms at sea in square period of brutal repression in the country. recorded, is dedicated to his island. There aquariums, of paper boats and tempests in VIA VITTORIO EMANUELE 46 - 80073 CAPRI - TEL. +39 (0)8 13 62 00 20 Riccardo started strumming the guitar and, are nine songs, on the theme of the four glass bottles. They are songs of emotion, [email protected] having taught himself, he went on to play seasons, set to rhythms that have their sung with passion by this singer-songwriter and compose ever more assiduously. “If I roots in world music. They describe Capri whose gaze is the colour of the sea. BAL HARBOUR • COURCHEVEL • GENEVA • GSTAAD • KUWAIT • LONDON • MOSCOW NEW YORK • PARIS • PORTO CERVO • ROME • ST BARTHELEMY • ST MORITZ

www•degrisogono•com 22 [Zoom]

Il duca e la duchessa di Windsor durante una passeggiata dedicata allo shopping per le vie dell’isola

«Quest’anno i duchi di Windsor hanno The Duke and Duchess of Windsor aperto la lista degli ospiti estivi» recita on a shopping trip around the streets of the island la voce impostata fuori campo mentre le immagini in bianco e nero scorrono e mostrano l’elegante coppia appena «This year the Duke and Duchess of Windsor sbarcata a Marina Grande. È l’attacco are head of the list of summer visitors,» says di uno dei servizi de “L’Europeo the voice off camera as the black and white Ciac - Cinegiornale Indipendente images roll, showing the elegant couple who Attualità Cronaca”, che all’epoca have just landed at the Marina Grande. It’s informava il pubblico delle sale the start of a report broadcast by “L’Europeo cinematografiche su fatti di cronaca, Ciac - Cinegiornale Indipendente Attualità politica, costume, cultura, moda Cronaca”, which kept audiences in the e sport, e che si trova nell’archivio cinemas of the time informed about news, video dell’Istituto Luce ora in rete. politics, traditions, culture, fashion and Lui, il “principe romantico” che aveva sport, and which can be found in the video sacrificato il regno per un sentimento, archive of the Istituto Luce, now online. considerato l’uomo più di classe del XX The Duke, well-known as the “romantic secolo, con morbidi pantaloni con le prince” who gave up his kingdom for love, pinces, maglia rigata, occhiali da sole was considered the classiest man of the e l’immancabile pipa. Lei sorridente, in 20th century, with his soft dart-front longuette con profili chiari e tra le mani trousers, striped polo shirt, sunglasses and il foulard che indosserà poco prima the ever-present pipe. The Duchess is di salire nell’auto decappotabile. smiling in a below-the-knee skirt with light- Cercavano tranquillità e all’arrivo coloured trim, holding a foulard that she put

CAPRI1956 a Capri, il 21 giugno di sessant’anni fa, on just before climbing into the convertible. trovarono invece una folla festosa They were looking for peace and quiet on ad applaudire. Impossibile per loro their arrival on Capri, on 21 June sixty years muovere un passo senza avere mille ago, but instead they found a happy, occhi addosso ma questo non li fece cheering crowd. They couldn’t take a step rinunciare a un the all’aperto, lunghe without being followed by a thousand eyes passeggiate per le stradine dell’isola but that didn’t stop them sitting outside with e a un po’ di shopping a cup of tea, or taking long walks along the

© OLYCOM nelle botteghe più caratteristiche. streets of the island, and doing a bit of shopping at some of the most traditional local shops.

24 25 [Starring]

Iaia FORTE

Morbida nelle forme e acuta nell’intelligenza. Versatile e camaleontica protagonista al cinema e a teatro. Con Napoli e il suo mare nel cuore

Intervista di Claudia Catalli

foto di Riccardo Ghilardi - location: Centro Sperimentale di Cinematografia

Ê«œÃ̜ʫˆÙÊLiœÊ`iÊ“œ˜`œ]ÊVœÃŒÊ“>}ˆVœÊV iÊÃi“LÀ>Ê>˜VœÀ>Ê>LˆÌ>̜Ê`>}ˆÊ`iˆ‚° i˜ÌÀiÊ«>À>Ê`ˆÊ >«ÀˆÊ}ˆÊœVV ˆÊiÊLÀˆ>˜œ°Ê"VV ˆÊ`i˜ÌÀœÊVՈÊÈÊ>}ˆÌ>Ê՘ʓ>Àiʈ˜ Ìi“«iÃÌ>°Ê-œ}˜>Ê`ˆÊˆ˜ÛiVV ˆ>ÀiÊ«Àœ«ÀˆœÊ`ˆÊvÀœ˜ÌiÊ>Ê“>Ài]ʓˆÊVœ˜vˆ`>ʏ½>ÌÌÀˆViÊ>ˆ> «IœÀÌi°Ê1˜œÊ`ˆÊµÕiˆÊۜÌˆÊV iÊÀiÃÌ>ʈ“«ÀiÃܰʽ>LLˆ>“œÊۈÃÌ>ʘiÊvˆ“Ê«Ài“ˆœÊ"ÃV>ÀÊLa grande bellezza `ˆÊ*>œœÊ-œÀÀi˜Ìˆ˜œ]ÊVœ˜ÊÌ>˜ÌœÊ`ˆÊÌÀÕVVœÊ“>ÀV>̜ÊiÊÌÕÀL>˜Ìiʈ˜ÊÌiÃÌ>]Êiʈ˜ ÌÕÌ̈ʈÊvˆ“Ê`ˆÊ*>««ˆÊ œÀÈV>̜°Ê˜Ê«ˆÙÊÛ>˜Ì>ʏ>ÊvœÀÌ՘>ʘœ˜ÊVœ“Õ˜iÊ`ˆÊ>ÛiÀÊVœ>LœÀ>̜] ÃՏʫ>VœÊVœ“iÊÃՏœÊÃV iÀ“œ]ÊVœ˜Ê}À>˜`ˆÊ˜œ“ˆÊVœ“iÊ/œ˜ˆÊ-iÀۈœ]ÊiœÊ iÊ iÀ˜>À`ˆ˜ˆÃ] >ÀˆœÊ >À̜˜i]Ê >ÀœÊ iVV ˆ]Êi`iÀˆVœÊ/ˆiââˆ]Ê ““>Ê >˜Ìi]Ê >ÀVœÊiÀÀiÀˆ]Ê,i˜>ÌœÊ i >Àˆ>]Ê >ÀVœÊ,ˆÃˆ° +Õ>˜`œÊÈʫÀi˜`iÊ՘>Ê«>ÕÃ>Ê`>Ê>ۜÀœÊ>ÊVœ˜Ìi“«>∜˜iÊ`i>Ê`ˆÃÌiÃ>ʓ>Àˆ˜>ʏiÊmÊ`ˆ ˆÃ«ˆÀ>∜˜i]ÊiÊVœ˜viÃÃ>ÊV iʏiʓ>˜V>ʈ““i˜Ã>“i˜ÌiʜÀ>ÊV iÊۈÛiÊ>Ê,œ“>°Ê œ˜Ê>ÊV>Ü] >««i˜>Ê«Õ¢Ê̜À˜>Ê>Ê >«œˆ]ʏ>ÊÃÕ>ÊVˆÌÌDʘ>Ì>i]ÊVœ˜Ê>ʵÕ>iÊVœ˜ÃiÀÛ>Ê՘ÊÀ>««œÀ̜ÊۈÃVi‡ À>i]Êiۈ`i˜ÌiÊ>˜V iʘiˆÊ«iÀܘ>}}ˆÊV iÊ«œÀÌ>Ê>ÊÌi>ÌÀœÊ­vˆ˜œÊ>ʓ>}}ˆœÊmÊÃÌ>Ì>ʈ˜Ê̜ÕÀÊVœ˜ >ÊCarmen `ˆÀiÌÌ>Ê`>Ê >ÀˆœÊ >À̜˜i®ÊiÊÃՏœÊÃV iÀ“œ°Ê˜ÌiÀ«ÀiÌiÊÛiÀÃ>̈i]ÊV>ÀˆÃ“>̈V> iÊV>“>iœ˜ÌˆV>]Ê>ˆ>ÊœÀÌiÊ >ÊÃVœ«iÀÌœÊ >«ÀˆÊ`>ÊÀ>}>ââ>Êiʘi}ˆÊ>˜˜ˆÊÈÊmʏ>ÃVˆ>Ì>ÊVœ˜‡

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26 27 [Starring]

Ü«À>ÌÌÕÌ̜Êv՜ÀˆÊÃÌ>}ˆœ˜i°Ê,ˆVœÀ`œÊVœ“i A Napoli si “ritrova”? IAIA FORTE vœÃÃiʈiÀˆÊ>Ê«Àˆ“>ÊۜÌ>ÊV iÊ œÊۈÃ̜ʏ>  >«œˆÊÃÌ>ÊۈÛi˜`œÊ՘ʓœ“i˜ÌœÊ`ˆÊÀ>«‡ Soft curves, and a fierce intelligence. ÀœÌÌ>Ê
ââÕÀÀ>]Ê՘ÊÀi“œÊÃvˆœÀ>Û>ʏ½>VµÕ> «ÀiÃi˜Ì>∜˜iÊ >Ìœ°Ê Ê ÃÕVViÃÃœÊ `ˆÊ /œ˜ˆ A versatile, chameleon-like star of cinema and stage. With Naples iÊ Ãi“LÀ>Û>Ê «Àœ`ÕÀÀiÊ â>vvˆÀˆ°Ê iÊ i“œ‡ -iÀۈœ]Ê ˆÊ Leopardi `ˆÊ >À̜˜i]Ê ˆÊ Àœ‡ and its sea in her heart ∜˜it‚°Ê iÌÌœÊ ÃÕLˆÌœÊ >>Ê «ÀœÛ>Ê >Ê ÃÕ> “>˜âˆÊ`ˆÊ i˜>ÊiÀÀ>˜Ìi]ÊÌÕÌ̈Êi뜘i˜Ìˆ iëiÀˆi˜â>Ê`ˆÊ>“>˜ÌiÊ`i½ˆÃœ>ÊV ˆi`i˜‡ `ˆÊ՘>ÊVˆÌÌDÊV i]ÊVœ˜ÊiÊÃÕiÊVœ˜ÌÀ>``ˆ‡ interview by Claudia Catalli photos by Riccardo Ghilardi `œiʈÊ«œÃ̜ʫÀiviÀˆÌœ]ʵÕiœÊ`œÛiÊvˆ˜ˆÃVi ∜˜ˆ]ʓ>˜Ìˆi˜iÊ՘ÊÛ>œÀiÊVՏÌÕÀ>iÊ`ˆÊÀˆ‡ «iÀÊ ÀˆvÕ}ˆ>ÀÃˆÊ Vœ˜Ê ˆÊ «i˜ÃˆiÀœÊ µÕ>˜`œÊ ˆ ˆiۜ°Ê ÊVœ˜ÃiÀÛ>Ê՘½ˆ`i˜ÌˆÌDÊ«ÀiVˆÃ>]ÊVœÃ> «ÀœLi“ˆÊ`iÊµÕœÌˆ`ˆ>˜œÊÈÊ>VVՓՏ>˜œ° À>À>Ê `>Ì>Ê ½œ“œœ}>∜˜iÊ >Ê VÕˆÊ ½Ì>ˆ> t’s the most beautiful place in the world: so magical that it still seems to be >ʏ>ÊÀˆÃ«œÃÌ>Ê«Àœ˜Ì>\ʁ6ˆ>iÊ
ÝiÊ Õ˜Ì i] ÌÕÌÌ>ʜÀ“>ˆÊmÊÜ}}iÌÌ>°Ê >«œˆÊˆ˜ÛiViÊv> «Iinhabited by the gods.» Her eyes shine as `œÛiʈ˜ˆâˆ>ʏ>Ê-V>>Êvi˜ˆVˆ>°Ê >ʏŒÊÈÊÛi`i V>«œÊ>ÊÃj]ÊiʵÕiÃ̜ÊmʘÕÌÀˆ“i˜ÌœÊ«iÀÊV ˆ she talks about Capri. Eyes with the restlessness of a stormy sea. Later, actress Iaia Forte tells me >«ÀˆÊVœ˜Ê՘>Ê«ÀœÃ«iÌ̈Û>Ê«ÀˆÛˆi}ˆ>Ì>\ v>ʈÊ“ˆœÊ“iÃ̈iÀi‚° that she dreams of growing old beside the sea. ˜œ˜ÊV½mʏ՜}œÊ«ˆÙʈ““>}ˆ˜ˆvˆVœ]ÊVœ˜ÃiÀÛ> Quando sale su un palco a Napoli percepisce She has one of those faces that remains imprinted on your memory. We’ve seen her in the µÕ>VœÃ>Ê`ˆÊëiVˆ>iÊiÊ`ˆÊ“ˆÃÌiÀˆVœ]ÊÃi“LÀ> differenze rispetto alle altre città? Oscar-winning film The Great Beauty by Paolo V iʏ½ˆÃœ>Êi“iÀ}>Ê`>Ê“>ÀiÊ«iÀʈ˜Ìœ˜>Ài  iÀÌ>“i˜Ìi°ÊÊ«ÕLLˆVœÊ˜>«œiÌ>˜œÊmʈ Sorrentino, with lots of bold make up and a turban on her head, as well as in all of Pappi Corsicato’s ՘ʈ˜˜œÊ>}ˆÊ`iˆ‚° «ˆÙÊiÈ}i˜ÌiÊiʈÊ«ˆÙÊVÀˆÌˆVœÊVœ˜ÊˆÊVœ˜ÌiÀ‡ films. She has also been fortunate enough to work Ha un rapporto particolare con il mare, À>˜iˆ°Ê œ˜Ê“iÊiʏ>ʓˆ>ÊCarmen ÈÊmÊÀˆÛi‡ on stage and on screen with big names such as Toni Servillo, Leo De Bernardinis, Mario Martone, cosa la attrae tanto? >ÌœÊ “œÌœÊ }i˜iÀœÃœ°Ê ˜Ê ÌÕÌÌ>Ê >Ê “ˆ> Carlo Cecchi, Federico Tiezzi, Emma Dante,  ˆÊ Ãi`ÕViÊ >Ê ÃÕ>Ê “ÕÌiۜiââ>Ê VœÃÌ>˜Ìi] V>ÀÀˆiÀ>Ê œÊÃi“«ÀiÊViÀV>̜Ê`ˆÊ˜œ˜ÊÕÃ>Àiʏ> Marco Ferreri, Renato De Maria and Marco Risi – not something that comes to everyone. ½ˆ`i>Ê`ˆÊ՘œÊÃ}Õ>À`œÊˆ˜vˆ˜ˆÌœ]ʏ>Ê«œÃÈLˆˆÌD ˜>«œiÌ>˜ˆÌDÊVœ“iÊcliché]ʈ˜ÊµÕi>ÊvœÀ“> When she takes a break from work, she finds `ˆÊ˜œ˜Ê>ÛiÀiÊvˆ˜i°Ê6i˜ÌœÌ̜Ê>˜˜ˆÊۈÃÃṎÊ> Vœ˜Ûi˜âˆœ˜>iÊ«iÀÊVՈÊ>>Êvˆ˜iÊVˆÊÈʫœ}}ˆ> inspiration contemplating the vast expanse of sea, and confides that she misses it terribly now that ,œ“>ʘœ˜Ê >˜˜œÊÃV>vˆÌœÊ>ʓˆ>ʘœÃÌ>}ˆ> ÃÕʓiVV>˜ˆÃ“ˆÊvœVœÀˆÃ̈VˆÊiʈÊÀˆÃՏÌ>̜Êm she lives in Rome. Not surprisingly, whenever she `iÊ“>Ài‚° ˆÊ ÀˆÌÀ>ÌÌœÊ `i>Ê >«œˆÊ «ˆÙÊ L>˜>i°Ê ˜‡ has the chance, she goes back to Naples, the city of her birth; the deep intensity of her relationship Che rapporto ha, oggi, con la popolarità? Èi“iÊ>Ê >À̜˜i]Ê-iÀۈœÊiÊ>Ê}ÀÕ««œÊ`ˆ with her native city is also evident in the  œ˜ÊiÃÃi˜`œÊ՘ʫiÀܘ>}}ˆœÊ`>ÊVœ«iÀ‡ «iÀܘiÊVœ˜ÊVՈÊܘœÊVÀiÃVˆÕÌ>]Ê>LLˆ>“œ characters she plays on stage (she is on tour until May in Carmen, directed by Mario Martone) and ̈˜>]ʓˆÊ«ˆ>ViÊ`ˆÃ̈˜}ÕiÀiʏ>Ê«œ«œ>ÀˆÌD Ìi˜Ì>̜Ê`ˆÊÀˆviÀˆÀVˆÊ>>ʘœÃÌÀ>ÊÌÀ>`ˆâˆœ˜i on screen. A versatile, charismatic, chameleon- `>ÊÃÕVViÃÜ]ÊV iÊmʵÕiœÊV iÊ}ˆÊ>ÌÀˆÊ̈ «iÀV jÊVˆÊ >Ê`>̜ÊÌÕÌ̜]ÊÃi˜â>ʓ>ˆÊÕÃ>À> like actress, Iaia Forte discovered Capri as a girl and has been won over by its charms over the ÀˆVœ˜œÃVœ˜œÊ «iÀÊ ˆÊ ÌÕœÊ >ۜÀœ°Ê ˆÊ >«‡ Vœ“iÊ>ˆLˆ]ʓ>Ê«ˆÕÌ̜Ã̜ÊVœ“iÊë՘̜ʫiÀ years. “I fell in love with the island at first sight «>ÕÈÊܘœÊV>ÀiââiÊV iÊVœ˜viÀ“>˜œÊV i Àˆ}i˜iÀ>À>‚° and nowadays I like rediscovering it, especially out of season. I remember as if it were yesterday, the ÈÊmʏ>ۜÀ>̜ÊLi˜iʓ>Ê>Êvˆ˜iÊÃiÀ>Ì>]ÊÃiʘœ˜ Rigenerare, rielaborare, reinterpretare. first time I visited the Blue Grotto: an oar dipped Û>`œÊ>ʓ>˜}ˆ>ÀiÊVœ˜ÊˆÊV>ÃÌ]Ê>“œÊ̜À˜>Ài Sono verbi utili anche a descrivere la sua below the surface of the water and it seemed to produce sapphires. It was such a thrilling >ÊV>Ã>]Êv>ÀiÊ՘>Ê`œVVˆ>ÊiÊÃÌ>ÀiÊ՘ʫœ½Ê«iÀ versione del femminile. Sceglie puntual- experience!” I immediately put her experience as Vœ˜ÌœÊ“ˆœ°Ê ëœÀÈÊ>Ê«ÕLLˆVœÊ«Õ¢ÊiÃÃiÀi mente personaggi di donna non convenzio- a lover of the island to the test by asking her to name her favourite place, where she likes to ºÛ>“«ˆÀˆââ>˜Ìi»]Ê `œ«œÊ V½mÊ LˆÃœ}˜œÊ `ˆÊ nali, una carriera volta a stravolgere lo retreat to with her thoughts when everyday ÀˆÌÀœÛ>ÀȂ° stereotipo femminile. È così? problems are mounting up. The answer comes straightaway: “Viale Axel Munthe, where the Scala  iÀVœÊÃi“«ÀiÊ`iiʈ˜V>À˜>∜˜ˆÊœ˜Ì>˜i Fenicia begins. You see Capri from a special `>>ÊVœ˜Ûi˜âˆœ˜i]ʏœÊ>““iÌ̜°ÊÊ“œ˜`œ perspective there: no other place can stir the imagination so strongly: it holds something vi““ˆ˜ˆiÊ >ÊÌ>˜ÌˆÊ>ëiÌ̈ÊV iÊëiÃÜʘœ˜ Iaia Forte, attrice e regista partenopea. special and mysterious within it, and it’s as though Di Capri dice che «è il posto più bello the island emerges from the sea to sing del mondo, così magico che sembra ܘœÊÀ>VVœ˜Ì>̈ÊiÊ`iÃVÀˆÌ̈ʈ˜ÊÌÕÌÌ>ʏ>ʏœÀœ a hymn to the gods.” abitato dagli dei». Vœ“«iÃÈÌD°Ê
`œÀœÊ½>ÀV ï«œÊvi““ˆ˜ˆi You have a special relationship with the sea: Iaia Forte, Neapolitan actress `ˆÊˆLiÀÌD]Ê>˜>ÀV ˆ>ÊiÊÀˆLiˆœ˜iÊ>iÊVœ˜Ûi˜‡ what is it that attracts you so strongly? and director. She says that Capri “I’m seduced by its constant changeability, the is “the most beautiful place in the world, ∜˜ˆ°Ê >Ê “ˆ>Ê Carmen]Ê >`Ê iÃi“«ˆœ]Ê Ãˆ so magical that it seems as though idea of a view that stretches forever, the it’s inhabited by the gods.” “ÕœÛiʘi>ÊۈÌ>ʈ˜Ê՘>ÊvœÀ“>ʵÕ>È possibility of having no end. I’ve lived in ▼ ▼

29 [Starring] GRAZIAEMARICAVOZZA.COM @ STREET - NEW YORK, NY 10019 TH Ucome ogninica donna AVENUE AT 58 TH WWW.GRAZIAEMARICAVOZZA.COM | INFO BERGDORF GOODMAN - 5

“>ÃV ˆi]ÊÃVi}ˆiʈʫ>À̘iÀÊiÊÃVi}ˆiÊ`ˆÊv>Ài Quando ha capito di poter fare questo Rome for twenty-eight years, but that hasn’t `i>Ê«Àœ«Àˆ>ÊۈÌ>Ê՘ÊÌiÀÀi˜œÊ`ˆÊˆLiÀÌDÊv՜Àˆ mestiere? changed my nostalgia for the sea.” How do you feel about popularity these days? `>Ê«iÀLi˜ˆÃ“ˆÊiÊÀi}œiÊv>“ˆˆ>Àˆ‚° +Õ>˜`œÊܘœÊÃÌ>Ì>Ê«ÀiÃ>Ê>Ê i˜ÌÀœÊ-«iÀˆ‡ “I’m not a cover celebrity, so I like to distinguish Ha un rituale che segue prima di andare in “i˜Ì>i°ÊÊÃÌ>̜Ê՘ʫ>ÃÃ>}}ˆœÊˆ“«œÀÌ>˜ÌiÊi popularity from success, which comes when others recognize your work. Applause is the pat scena? ܘœÊÃÌ>Ì>ÊvœÀÌ՘>Ì>]Ê>˜âˆÊ«ÀˆÛˆi}ˆ>Ì>]Ê>ʏ>‡ on the back that confirms you’ve done a good  iÃÃ՘Ê}iÃ̜ÊÃV>À>“>˜ÌˆVœ]Ê>“œÊv>ÀiÊ܏œ ۜÀ>ÀiÊ«œˆÊˆ˜ÊVœ˜ÌiÃ̈Ê`ˆÊ}ÀÕ««œ°Ê+Õ>ÌÌÀœ job, but at the end of the evening, if I don’t go out to eat with the cast, I like to go home, have a ՘ÊÌÀ>ˆ˜ˆ˜}Ê`ˆÊÀˆÃV>`>“i˜ÌœÊvˆÃˆVœ°Ê
˜V i ۜÌiÊVœ˜Ê-iÀۈœ]ÊÃiÌÌiÊVœ˜Ê iVV ˆ]ÊVœ˜ shower and be by myself for a while. Being on «iÀV j]Ê`>Ì>ʏ½iÌDÊiÊ`œÛi˜`œÊL>>Ài]ʓˆÊÀˆ‡ ,œ˜Vœ˜ˆÊÌÀi°Ê˜Ãœ““>]Ê œÊÃi“«ÀiÊ>ÛÕ̜ display to the public can be “vampirizing”: afterwards you need to find yourself again.”

>ÃÃ>°Ê Ê«œˆÊ«Ài`ˆÃ«œ˜iÊ>ÊÃÛ՜Ì>Àiʏ>ÊÌiÃÌ>] Vœ“«>}˜ˆÊ`ˆÊ>ۜÀœÊVœ˜Ê՘ÊViÀ̜Ê̈«œÊ`ˆ Do you “find yourself” in Naples? 38, VIA FUORLOVADO - PH +39 081 83 74 010 | 61, LE BOTTEGHE 77 468 80073 CAPRI, ITALY «ÀiÀœ}>̈Û>ÊiÃÃi˜âˆ>iÊ«iÀÊ«œÌiÀʈ˜V>À˜>Ài iۜÕ∜˜iÊ«iÀÊVՈʘœ˜ÊiÈÃÌiÛ>˜œÊ`ˆÃVÀˆ“ˆ‡ “Naples is going through a golden period for performance. The success of Toni Servillo, the ՘Ê>ÌÀœÊiÃÃiÀiÊۈÛi˜Ìi‚° ˜>∜˜ˆÊœÊÃi«>À>∜˜ˆÊ`ˆÊ}i˜iÀi‚° Leopardi by Martone, the novels of Elena Cosa significa fare teatro oggi in Italia? La maturità le ha regalato maggiore Ferrante, all of them are exponents of a city that, with all its contradictions, maintains a high />˜Ì>Êv>̈V>°Ê>ÊÈÌÕ>∜˜iʘœ˜ÊmÊ`iiÊ«ˆÙ libertà? cultural profile. And it keeps its specific identity, viˆVˆ]ÊÜ«À>ÌÌÕÌ̜ʫiÀÊV ˆÊ«ÀœÛ>Ê>Êv>ÀÈʫœÀ‡ ˜ÛiVV ˆ>ÀiÊmÊv>̈VœÃœ]ʘœ˜ÊœÊ˜i}œ]ʓ>Ê > which is rare given that the whole of Italy is becoming homogenized nowadays. Naples, Ì>̜ÀiÊ `ˆÊ Õ˜Ê Ãi˜Ãœ]Ê ÀˆÃ«iÌÌœÊ >Ê Õ˜Ê >ۜÀœ >˜V iÊÌ>˜ÌˆÊ«ÀˆÛˆi}ˆ°Ê+Õ>˜`œÊÈÊmÊ}ˆœÛ>˜ˆÊÈ instead, is its own master, and this provides ëiÃÜʈ˜Ãi˜Ã>̜°Ê6ˆÛˆ>“œÊÌi“«ˆÊ`ˆÊÃۈˆ‡ mÊ«ˆÙʏi}>̈Ê>>ÊÛ>˜ˆÌD]Ê«œˆÊ>ÀÀˆÛ>Ê՘½iÌDʈ˜ nourishment for someone in my trade.” When you go on stage in Naples, does it feel “i˜Ìœ°ÊœÀÃiÊ>˜V iÊ}À>âˆiÊ>ÊÌ>˜ÌˆÊtalent VՈÊÃˆÊ >ʓi˜œÊLˆÃœ}˜œÊ`iœÊÃ}Õ>À`œÊ>ÌÀՈ different to you compared to other cities? show Ãi“LÀ>ÊV iÊÌÕÌ̈ʫœÃÃ>˜œÊv>ÀiÊ}ˆÊ>̇ «iÀÊVœ˜viÀ“>Àiʏ>Ê«Àœ«Àˆ>ʈ`i˜ÌˆÌD°ÊÊÌi“«œ “Definitely. The Neapolitan public is most demanding and most critical with its fellow ̜Àˆ]ʈ˜ÛiViʘœ˜ÊmÊVœÃŒ°Ê >˜Ìi˜}œÊ«iÀ¢Ê՘> «>ÃÃ>]ʘœ˜ÊVˆÊÈʫբÊv>ÀʘՏ>°ÊÊ ˆÃœ}˜>Ê܏‡ citizens. It has shown itself to be very generous ۈȜ˜iÊÀœ“>˜ÌˆV>\ÊVÀi`œÊV iʈÊÌi>ÌÀœÊ«œÃÃ> Ì>˜ÌœÊVœ˜Vˆˆ>ÀÈÊVœ˜Ê>Ê«Àœ«Àˆ>ÊiÌDÊiÊۈÛiÀ> with me and my Carmen. Throughout my career, I’ve always tried not to use my Neapolitan origins >˜VœÀ>ʘœ˜Ê`ˆVœÊÛiˆVœ>ÀiʓiÃÃ>}}ˆ]Ê«iÀV j >Ê “i}ˆœ°Ê
`iÃÃœÊ V iÊ œÊ xäÊ >˜˜ˆÊ “iÊ > as a cliché, in that conventional way where you œ`ˆœÊˆÊ“œÀ>ˆÃ“ˆ]ʓ>Êchance ˆ““>}ˆ˜>̈Ûi }œ`œÊ>˜V iÊ`ˆÊ«ˆÙ°Ê
˜V iÊÃiÊ}ˆÊˆ˜˜>“œÀ>‡ end up relying on the typical picturesque folklore devices that result in a really banal `>ÊVœ˜Ãi}˜>ÀiÊ>œÊëiÌÌ>̜Ài‚° “i˜ÌˆÊܘœÊÃi“«ÀiÊ«ˆÙÊÀ>Àˆ°Ê->ÀiLLi ▼ depiction of Naples. Together with Martone, ▼

30 [Starring]

LiœÊÀˆ«ÀœÛ>ÀˆÊVœ˜ÊµÕi>ÊÃÌiÃÃ>ʈ˜˜œVi˜â> /œ˜ÞÊ *>}œ`>]Ê ˆÊ «ÀœÌ>}œ˜ˆÃÌ>Ê `iÊ Àœ‡ Ài}ˆ>°Ê*œˆÊ œÊˆ“«>À>̜ÊV iÊ«iÀʘœˆÊ`œ˜˜iÊm V iÊ>ÛiۜʵÕ>˜`œÊiÀœÊ«ˆÙÊ}ˆœÛ>˜i°Ê >Ê«œˆ “>˜âœÊHanno tutti ragione `ˆÊ*>œœÊ-œÀ‡ vœ˜`>“i˜Ì>iʘœ˜Ê>Õ̜LœˆVœÌÌ>ÀVˆ°Ê*Àˆ“> ÃÕLi˜ÌÀ>]ÊÃiʘœ˜ÊˆÊVˆ˜ˆÃ“œ]ʏ>Ê«>ÕÀ>\ÊÈÊm Ài˜Ìˆ˜œ]ÊV iÊÃ̜ʫiÀÊÀˆ«œÀÌ>Àiʈ˜ÊÃVi˜>° ˜œ˜Ê>ÛiۜÊvˆ`ÕVˆ>ʈ˜Ê“i]Ê«œˆÊ œÊV>«ˆÌœÊV i “i˜œÊˆ˜˜œVi˜Ìˆ]ʈ˜ÛiViÊÛ>ÀÀiLLiʏ>Ê«i˜>Ê`ˆ *>}œ`>ÊmÊ՘Ê}À>˜`iÊ`ˆÛiÀ̈“i˜Ìœ\ʏ>ʏˆ˜‡ ˜œ˜ÊLˆÃœ}˜>Ê`>ÀÊ«iÜÊ>œÊÃ}Õ>À`œÊ>ÌÀՈÊi ˆ˜˜>“œÀ>ÀÈÊVœÃŒ]Ê}iÌÌ>˜`œÊ>Ê«Àœ«Àˆ>Ê>˜ˆ“> }Õ>ʈ˜ÊVՈÊÃVÀˆÛiÊ-œÀÀi˜Ìˆ˜œÊmÊÌi>ÌÀ>i] ˆ“«i}˜>ÀÈʈ˜ÛiViÊ>ʓiÌÌiÀiʈ˜ÊV>“«œÊÌÕÌÌ> ˆ˜ÊµÕi>Ê`i½>ÌÀœ‚° «iÀviÌÌ>Ê`>ÊÀiVˆÌ>Ài°Ê Ê`œ«œÊˆÊÃÕVViÃÜ >ÊVÀi>̈ۈÌDÊ`i˜ÌÀœÊ`ˆÊ˜œˆ]ÊÃi˜â>ÊÌi“iÀiÊ}ˆÕ‡ Ha mai il timore che andando avanti V iÊ >Ê>ÛÕ̜ʈ˜ÊÃVi˜>ʈÊÃ՜ʫÀˆ“œÊV>«ˆ‡ `ˆâˆ°ÊʵÕiÃ̜ʈÊÃi}Ài̜‚° possano arrivarle meno copioni e ruoli di ̜œ]ÊÃ̜ʫÀi«>À>˜`œÊˆÊÃiVœ˜`œ°Ê ˆÊ`ˆ‡ Ha anche progetti televisivi all’orizzonte? spessore? ÛiÀ̜Ê>˜V iÊ>Ê«Ài˜`iÀœÊˆ˜Ê}ˆÀœÊ˜iÊÃ՜  ˆÊÛi`ÀiÌiʈ˜ÊSquadra antimafia, Vœ˜Ê>  œ]ʘœ˜Ê œÊ`ˆÊµÕiÃÌiÊ«>ÕÀi°Ê->ÀDÊV iÊ œ ˆ«iÀ“>ÃV ˆˆÃ“œ‚° Ài}ˆ>Ê`ˆÊ,i˜>ÌœÊ iÊ >Àˆ>]ʘiˆÊ«>˜˜ˆÊ`ˆÊ՘> Ãi“«ÀiÊ>“>̜ÊÌÀ>ÃvœÀ“>À“ˆ°ÊœÊ>˜V i Firmerà di nuovo la regia teatrale? “>vˆœÃ>ÊÈVˆˆ>˜>°Ê->À¢Ê>ʓ>`ÀiÊ`i½>ÌÌÀˆVi ˆ˜ÌiÀ«ÀiÌ>̜Ê՜“ˆ˜ˆ]ÊVœ“iÊ>`ÊiÃi“«ˆœ -Œ°Ê ˆÊmÊۜÌÕ̜ʓœÌœÊ«Àˆ“>Ê`ˆÊvˆÀ“>ÀiÊ՘> -ˆÛˆ>Ê`½
“ˆVœ‚° ■

Servillo and the group of people I grew up with, especially if you’re someone who tries to make then you find yourself feeling... perhaps not we have tried to draw on our tradition, because it themselves bring meaning to a job that is often cynicism, but fear: you’re less innocent, but has given us everything, using it not as an alibi, meaningless. We live in degrading times. It seems actually it would be better to fall in love like that, but rather as a starting point for regenerating it.” that anyone can be an actor, perhaps partly throwing your soul into the other person’s.” Regenerating, reworking, reinterpreting. because of all those talent shows, but that’s not Have you ever been afraid that as you get older, These are all verbs that could also be used to the case in reality. But I keep a romantic vision: you might get sent fewer scripts and there might describe your version of femininity. You invariably I think that the theatre can still, perhaps not be fewer roles of any substance? choose unconventional female characters, convey messages, because I hate to seem “No, I’m not afraid of that. Maybe because I’ve in a career that seems bent on subverting female moralizing, but offer the audience chances to use always liked to transform myself. I’ve also played stereotypes. Is that accurate? their imaginations. men, for example, Tony Pagoda, the main “I always look for incarnations that are a long way When did you realise that you could do this for a character in the novel Hanno tutti ragione by from the conventional, I must admit. The female living? Paolo Sorrentino, that I’m about to bring back to world has many aspects that are often not “When I was taken on by the Experimental Centre. the stage. Pagoda is great fun: Sorrentino’s portrayed or described in all their complexity. I love It was an important transition and I was lucky, or I language is theatrical, so it’s perfect for acting. the female archetype of freedom, anarchy and should say privileged, to go on to work in group And after the success we had with the first part rebellion against convention. My Carmen, for contexts. Four times with Servillo, seven with on stage, I’m preparing the second. I like taking example, moves through life in an almost masculine Cecchi, three with Ronconi. So I’ve always had the mickey with him: his hyper-male chauvinism. way: she chooses her partners and chooses to fairly progressive work colleagues, and there Will you be directing the production again? make her own life a free area that stands outside wasn’t any discrimination or separation of gender.” “Yes. Directing a play should have happened respectability and the familiar rules.” Has maturity brought greater freedom for you? much earlier. Then I realized that for us women Do you have any ritual that you follow before “Growing old is tiring, I can’t deny, but it also has it’s essential not to self-boycott. At first I didn’t going on stage? many privileges. When you’re young, you’re more have confidence in myself, then I realised that “I don’t go in for rituals to ward off bad luck; I just hemmed in by vanity; then you reach an age when we shouldn’t worry about what other people like to do some physical warming up. Partly you feel less need of other people’s attention to think but we should work to get all the creativity because, given my age and the fact that I have to confirm your identity. Time passes, and we can’t do that we have inside us out into the open without dance, it relaxes me. And it also helps you to anything about it. You just need to reconcile worrying about being judged. That’s the secret.” empty your head, which is essential if you are to yourself to your own age and enjoy it as much as Do you also have television projects on the horizon? make yourself become someone else.” you can. Now that I’m 50, I enjoy life even more. “You’ll see me in Squadra antimafia, directed What does working in the theatre mean Even though falling in love becomes increasingly by Renato De Maria, as a member of the in Italy today? rare. It would be nice to experience it again with the Sicilian mafia. I play the mother of the actress “A lot of hard work. It’s not the best of situations, same innocence that I had when I was younger. But Silvia d’Amico.” ■ piazzetta Cerio - CAPRI [email protected] ecocapri.com Eco Capri SOGNO DI LAETITIA 32 via Ignazio Cerio 6 - Capri - ph 081 8376296 - [email protected] photo by Pasquale Abbattista [Dentro l’isola]

190 anni fa. Precisamente il 17 agosto. 190 years ago. More precisely, È il giorno in cui il pescatore caprese on the 17th of August. That was the day Angelo Ferraro vi porta in visita il pittore Ernst Fries that Capri fisherman Angelo Ferraro took e lo scrittore August Kopisch accompagnati dal notaio Giuseppe artist Ernst Fries and writer August Kopisch Pagano, proprietario della locanda in cui alloggiano. Kopisch la descriverà in una nota autografa sul registro degli ospiti on a visit there, accompanied by the notary dell’hotel Pagano (oggi La Palma) e le dedicherà un Giuseppe Pagano, owner of the inn where they capitolo del suo “Annuario Italia” pubblicato nel 1838. were staying. Kopisch describes it in a handwritten note Nasceva il mito di Capri, tutto il resto è storia. in the guest register at the Hotel Pagano (now called La Palma) and devotes a chapter to Capri in his “Annuario Italia” published in 1838. Thus began the legend of Capri, and the rest is history.

26 1 È una delle 55 grotte sparse lungo la costa dell’isola, sicuramente è la più famosa. Il suo arco d’ingresso è alto un solo metro. Profonda 22, larga 25 e lunga circa 60. L’altezza 8 media della volta è di 7 metri ed aumenta fino a circa 14 nella zona interna. - It’s one of 55 grottos scattered along the coast of the island, and definitely the most famous. Its entrance arch is only one metre high. The cave is 22m deep, 25m wide and about AZZURRA 60m long. The average height of the roof is 7m, increasing to about 14m inside. BLUE foto di / photo by Umberto D’Aniello [Dentro l’isola] IO e le STATUE Il racconto di uno dei sub che parteciparono al recupero delle statue rinvenute sul fondo della Grotta Azzurra

incontro con Nunzio Esposito di Riccardo Esposito

Nel BLU dipinto di BLU Nunzio Esposito Un pellegrinaggio infinito per sentire davanti al Museo Casa Rossa di Anacapri dove il palpito del cuore azzurro dell’isola. sono conservate le statue A bordo di una barca o pazientemente della Grotta Azzurra. Nunzio Esposito in front in coda sulla scaletta che scende al mare, of the Museo Casa Rossa comunque tutti in attesa del proprio turno in Anacapri, which houses the statues from per essere trasbordati su uno dei piccoli the Grotta Azzurra. barchini a remi autorizzati ad entrare nella grotta. Fuori dal suo ingresso è tutta una calca, dall’alba al tramonto i visitatori si succedono. Sul viso l’emozione di scoprire >ÊÀœÌÌ>Ê
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a camera, to carry a memory away with them. *œˆÊ>ÊÃ̜Àˆ>Ê >Êv>Ì̜ʈÊÃ՜ÊVœÀܰʽ“«iÀœÊ,œ“>˜œÊmÊVÀœ>̜]ʏiÊۈiÊ`i½ˆ“«i‡ ▼

38 39 [Dentro l’isola] Un’esperienza unica PAGINE AZZURRE Non si può dire di aver visto Capri senza essere D’azzurro sono colorate numerose pagine dedicate al mare di Capri e sono molte quelle sulla grotta più famosa del mondo. penetrati nella Grotta ma può succedere di non Ce ne sono però alcune che più di altre hanno contribuito a crearne il mito. Sono quelle di questa fiaba “nordica” riuscire ad entrarci in caso di mare mosso o vento forte. Non è certo la stessa cosa, ma puntate il QR ambientata a Capri e scritta nel 1828 da Wilhelm Friedrich Waiblinger, giovane inquieto e precoce partito dalla sua code qui vicino e vi immergerete nella sua magia Germania alla volta dell’Italia in cerca di sole e libertà. Le rovine di Roma, la Sicilia, Napoli grazie alle immagini del video girato da Umberto e il suo mare, Capri furono argomenti di versi, novelle, resoconti e drammi. Ne La Favola della Grotta Azzurra D’Aniello e alla colonna sonora di Almartino. (La Conchiglia Ed.) racconta di un guerriero eroe, Manfred, che trova la sua via iniziatica A unique experience alla consapevolezza e all’amore della graziosa Manuele proprio dentro l’antro blu. You can’t say you’ve seen Capri until you've Lui, squattrinato e straniero, bello e maledetto come Byron, l’amore lo trovò nella città dei papi. been inside the Blue Grotto, but it isn't always possible to go in, due to rough seas or high E di tisi a Roma morì. Sul letto di morte sospirò “la mia patria sei tu” winds. It isn’t the same thing, of course, but if dettando i suoi ultimi versi di Das Lied aus Capri, “Il canto di Capri”. Aveva 26 anni. you scan the QR code next to this article you can immerse yourself in its magic, thanks to BLUE PAGES the video images shot by Umberto D’Aniello and the sound track by Almartino. Many pages dedicated to the Capri sea are coloured blue, and many of them are about the most famous grotto in the world. But some have contributed more than any others to creating the legend. They are the pages of this “Nordic” fable set in Capri and written in 1828 by Wilhelm Friedrich Waiblinger, a restless and precocious young man who left his native country of Germany for Italy, in search of sunshine and freedom. He wrote about the ruins of Rome, Sicily, Naples with its sea, and Capri in his verses, short stories, descriptive accounts and dramas. In the Fable of the Blue Grotto (La Conchiglie Ed.) he tells the story of a heroic warrior, Manfred, who finds his way of initiation to awareness and to the love of the sweet Manuele there inside the blue cave. Waiblinger, a penniless foreigner, beautiful and cursed like Byron, found love in the city of the Popes. And it was in Rome that he died of tuberculosis. On his death bed he breathed “You are my fatherland”, as he dictated the last verses of Das Lied aus Capri, “The song of Capri”. He was 26 years old.

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40 [Dentro l’isola]

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by nature, and the Blue Grotto lost its role. But How was it possible? “We needed a boat with a THE STATUES AND ME legends sprang up, fed by rumours among the winch, but it was impossible to get it through the people that the cave was infested with spirits. main entrance. So we filled the motorboat with The story of one of the scuba divers Kopisch’s testimony gave the place back its water and brought it down below the level of the who took part in the recovery importance, so that once again it assumed a key sea so that it could pass through the secondary of the statues discovered at the bottom role in the history of Capri. This was confirmed in entrance to the grotto. Then we brought it up of the Blue Grotto 1964, when two Roman statues dedicated to again and mounted the winch so as to recover marine divinities were brought to light. And it is the statues. The scuba divers from the an interview with Nunzio Esposito here that the story of Nunzio Esposito, a Capri Superintendence (Department of Monuments) by Riccardo Esposito scuba diver, begins: “The legend of the Blue accompanied us because there needed to be Grotto has always existed on Capri. There were people who could tie up the statues without lots of stories about it, but for us scuba divers it damaging them.” Yes, statues in the plural. In he Blue Grotto is the essence of Capri. was a spectacular place to go diving.” In 1964 1964 two statues were recovered. Probably a From the outside it seems almost Nunzio was 25 years old and he was already an Poseidon and a Triton. The operation was Timpossible to enter. Then the little boats, island institution, someone who was used to successfully completed, although Nunzio steered with careful strokes of the oar, exploit living with the sea and exploring its depths remembers a difficult moment: “The statues were the movement of the waves and disappear inside together with his friends. “At that time we didn’t tied beneath the boats, because we couldn’t the cave. When you enter this cathedral of rock have all the modern gear,” Nunzio emphasizes, hoist them on board. But when we reached the for the first time, it feels like a dream: the “but we had plenty of enthusiasm.” And it was front of the harbour, we risked losing them, sunlight transforms the sea into something new. thanks to his friends that Nunzio played the key because there was a strong wind, the classic Those who remain on the land can only begin to role in a historic recovery. “Gennaro Alberino was “tramontanata” (north wind). Anyone who knows imagine the colours of this marvel. Visits during doing a dive in the sea. Suddenly he saw an arm the Capri sea knows that this is one of the most the summer periods come thick and fast, so it is sticking out of the seabed of the Blue Grotto. It difficult times, when the north wind blows. funny to think how peaceful it was on the 17th of was the arm of a statue. We immediately Luckily we managed to enter the harbour without August 1826. That was the day when the Blue informed the authorities so they could organize problems.” There have been other explorations Grotto was discovered by the Prussian poet, its recovery. They gave me the task of placing a and new discoveries since, but history today August Kopisch. Or to be precise, rediscovered. marker there so as not to lose track of the offers us three discoverers of the Blue Grotto: the Because Kopisch - accompanied by the artist statue.” The statue provided definite proof that Emperor Tiberius, who was the first to appreciate Ernst Fries, fisherman Angelo Ferraro and notary this was Tiberius’s chosen nymphaeum, a grotto its beauty, August Kopisch who defied the Giuseppe Pagano - were exploring a place that adorned by the will of an emperor. Nunzio is popular rumours, and the group of Capri scuba was already known to the people of Capri. proud of the episode: “For me it was an divers represented by Nunzio. Especially to the emperor Tiberius, who settled important moment and I still feel excited today Today the Blue Grotto statues can be found in the on Capri in 27 A.D. Tiberius identified the perfect when I think about those recovery operations: Casa Rossa, the home that belonged to John Clay place for his marine nymphaeum. There beneath the authorities asked us for help, as they needed MacKowen. In this house-museum, the what was to be one of his residences, the villa all the assistance they could get. But it wasn’t an discoveries testify to the strength of the bond Gradola, was the Blue Grotto. Then history took easy undertaking.” Try to imagine the effort between human beings and this island, with its its course. The Roman Empire crumbled, the required to bring up a statue that had been lying beauties and its nature. And with a history that emperor’s villas were forgotten or swallowed up on the bottom of the sea for thousands of years. still enthrals us today. ■

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sfumature di CAPRI

Dal turchese al pervinca passando per l’indaco, il ciano e l’oltremare. Sono i colori che regala l’isola azzurra

testo e foto di Simona Schettino

˜Ê՘>ÊÃÌ>˜â>Ê>ââÕÀÀ>ʈÊV՜ÀiÊL>ÌÌiÊ«ˆÙʏi˜Ì>“i˜Ìi°ÊœÀÃiÊmÊ«iÀʵÕiÃ̜ÊV iʵÕ>˜`œÊÈÊÛi`i ÃLÕV>ÀiʵÕi½>˜}œœÊ`ˆÊÌiÀÀ>Ê`>Êvˆ˜iÃÌÀˆ˜œÊ`i½>ˆÃV>vœ]ÊÌÕÌ̜Ê`ˆÛi˜Ì>Ê«ˆÙÊÌÀ>˜µÕˆœ° -ˆ>“œÊ>ÀÀˆÛ>̈° I >«Àˆ]ÊÀˆÃ«iÌ̜Ê>ÊÃV ˆ>ÊiÊ*ÀœVˆ`>]ÊmÊvˆ}ˆ>Ê`ˆÊ՘>ÊÌiÀÀ>Ê`ˆÛiÀÃ>°Ê œ˜Ê˜>ÃViÊ`>>ÊÀœÃÃ>ÊÀ>LLˆ> `iÊ6iÃÕۈœ]ʓ>Ê`>Ê`iˆV>̜ÊV>˜`œÀiÊ`i>Ê«ˆiÌÀ>ÊV>ÀÈV>°ÊÊLˆ>˜Vœ]ʈ˜Ãˆi“iÊ`ˆÊÌÕÌ̈ʈÊVœœÀˆ iÊ>ÃÃi˜â>Ê`ˆÊÌÕÌ̈ʈʫˆ}“i˜Ìˆ]Ê`ˆ“œÀ>ʏ>ʺÀi}ˆ˜>Ê`i>ÊÀœVVˆ>»ÊV iÊ>ÛۜÌ>Ê`>ÊVˆiœÊiÊ`>Ê“>Ài ˜œ˜Ê«Õ¢ÊV iÊ̈˜}iÀÈÊ`½>ââÕÀÀœ° *iÀVœÀÀi˜`œÊ>ÊL>˜V ˆ˜>Ê`iÊ«œÀ̜ʵÕiÃ̜ÊVœœÀi]ÊVœ“iÊvœÀâ>Ê`ˆÊ}À>ۈÌD]Ê눘}iÊiÊ܏iÛ>] Àˆi“«ˆiÊ}ˆÊœVV ˆ]Ê>i}}iÀˆÃViʏ>ʓi˜Ìi° ÕÌÌÕ>˜ÌˆÊVˆÊÈʏ>ÃVˆ>ÊÌÀ>ëœÀÌ>ÀiÊ`>Ê«i˜`ˆœÊ`i>ÊVœˆ˜>ÊV iÊVœi}>Ê >Àˆ˜>ÊÀ>˜`iÊ>ÊVi˜ÌÀœ `i>ÊVˆÌÌDÊi]Ê«Àˆ“>Ê`ˆÊÀ>}}ˆÕ˜}iÀiʵÕiÊ“ÕVV ˆiÌ̜Ê`ˆÊV>ÃiÊV>ÕÌ>“i˜ÌiÊ«œÃ>ÌiÊÃՏÊvˆ>˜VœÊȘ՜Ü `i½ˆÃœ>]ÊiVVœÊˆÊ˜Õ“iÀœÊΣÊ`ˆÊۈ>Ê œ˜ÊˆœLLiÊ,՜VVœ\Ê՘>Ê̈“ˆ`>ÊV>ÃiÌÌ>ÊVœœÀÊcarta da

zucchero >Lˆ“i˜Ìi «œÃˆâˆœ˜>Ì>Ê`œÛiʏ½>L>Ê«Õ¢Ê}Õ>À`>À>ʓi}ˆœÊiʏ>ʏ՘>ʏiʫբʫ>À>Ài° ▼

44 [Dentro l’isola]

½>ÀÀˆÛœÊˆ˜Ê*ˆ>ââiÌÌ>ÊmÊÃi“«ÀiÊÃV>˜`ˆÌœÊ`> “>ÀiÊÓ>Ì>̜Ê`ˆÊazzurro oltremare°ÊÊÌÀ> 50 SHADES L>Ì̜̈Ê>Ìi“«œÀ>iÊ`iÊV>“«>˜ˆiÊ«iÀV jÊ> µÕiiʈ“«œ˜i˜ÌˆÊVœœ˜˜iÊV iʈÊV>˜Viœ OF CAPRI >«ÀˆÊˆÊÌi“«œÊÈÊviÀ“>ÊiʈÊÃ՜˜œÊ`ˆÊµÕii blu di Prussia `ˆÊ6ˆ>Ê ˆÃVœ«œˆÊÀˆ“>˜`> From turquoise to periwinkle blue V>“«>˜iÊ>ÌÀœÊ˜œ˜ÊmÊV iÊ՘ÊȘ} ˆœââœÊÃՇ >ÊVœœÀiÊ`i}ˆÊ>LˆÃÈÊV iʈÊÃ՜˜œÊ`iÊ˜œ“i through indigo, cyan and ultramarine. «iÀvˆVˆ>i]ʏ>ÊVœÀ˜ˆViÊ`ˆÊ՘ÊLÀiÛiÊiÌiÀ˜œÊ“œ‡ `i>ÊÃÌÀ>`ˆ˜>ÊÜÌ̜ÃÌ>˜Ìi]Êۈ>Ê"VV ˆœÊ >‡ These are the colours the blue island gives us “i˜ÌœÊ >˜V iÊ ÃÌ>ۜÌ>Ê `>Ê V՜ÀiÊ >ââÕÀÀœ° Àˆ˜œ]Êv>Ê>vvˆœÀ>ÀiÊ>>ʓi“œÀˆ>°Ê >}>ÀˆÊˆ“‡ >ÃÌ>Ê>â>ÀiʏœÊÃ}Õ>À`œÊiʘi½ˆ˜ÌiÀÃi∜˜i “>}ˆ˜>˜`œÊœÊÃ̜ÀˆVœÊV>«œ`œ}ˆœÊblu notte text and photos by Simona Schettino `iiÊ`Õiʏ>˜ViÌÌiÊiVVœÊ՘ÊVÕÃVˆ˜œÊÕVˆ`œÊ`ˆ `i>Ê ÀœÌÌ>Ê
ââÕÀÀ>]Ê µÕiœÊ V iÊ ÌÕÌÌiÊ i

«ˆ>ÃÌÀiiÊpavone V iÊ>LLÀ>VVˆ>Ê՘Ê} ˆÀˆ‡ ˜œ˜˜iÊVˆÌ>˜œÊ˜iiʏœÀœÊÃ̜Àˆi]ÊۈۜʘiÊ«>Ç n a light blue room one’s heart beats more }œÀœÊLˆ>˜VœÊ>ÌÌiÊÃՏʵÕ>iÊÀˆ«œÃ>˜œÊˆ˜`ˆ‡ Ã>̜Êiʏi}}i˜`>ʘiÊ«ÀiÃi˜Ìi°Ê slowly. Maybe that is why everything becomes calmer when we catch sight of that fragment ÃÌÕÀL>ÌiÊvˆ˜œÊ>½>ÀÀˆÛœÊ`i½ˆ˜ÛiÀ˜œÆʵÕ>˜`œ >ʏ>ÊÃÌÀ>`>ÊÌÀ>ÃVˆ˜>Ê}ˆÙ]ÊÃVi˜`iÊvˆ˜œÊ>> I of land from the hydrofoil window. We’ve arrived. vˆ˜>“i˜ÌiÊV½mʈÊȏi˜âˆœÊiʏiÊV>“«>˜iÊ«œÃ‡ VœÃÌ>Êi]ʜÌÀiÊ}ˆÊœ“LÀiœ˜ˆÊblu reale `i> Capri, compared to Ischia and Procida, is the daughter of a different land. Capri was not born ܘœÊV>˜Ì>Ài°Ê œ˜Ìiˆ˜>] «>Vˆ`>Ê`œ˜`œ>Ê՘>ÊL>ÀV iÌÌ>Ê`ˆ from the red anger of Vesuvius, but from the i˜ÌÀiʈÊ˜œ“iÊ`iÊÀ>˜Ê >vvmÊëˆVV>ʘi> i}˜œÊVœœÀÊuova di pettirosso V i]ÊV>“>‡ delicate candour of the karst rock. White, mix of all colours and absence of all pigments, is home ÃÕ>Ê̜˜>ˆÌDÊ`ˆÊLÕÊ«ˆÙÊÃVÕÀ>] ½iVVˆÌ>∜˜i iœ˜ÌˆV>]Ê ÃˆÊ Vœ˜vœ˜`iÊ Vœ˜Ê ½œÀˆâ✘ÌiÊ `i to the “queen of the rocks” who enveloped by sky Ìi˜Ìi˜˜>ÊÃՏiÊÃV>iÊV iʈ˜ÛˆÌ>˜œÊ>ÊÃ>ˆÀi°Êˆ “iââœ}ˆœÀ˜œÊiÊ>ÊLœÀ`œÊ`i>ʵÕ>iÊÈʫբ and sea can’t but tinge herself with blue. Walking along the quay in the port, this colour, ˆ˜vˆÃÈÊazzurro egiziano `ˆÊ*>>ââœÊ iÀˆœÊÀˆ‡ À>}}ˆÕ˜}iÀiʵÕi>Ê >«ÀˆÊV iÊÈÊÌÀœÛ>ʺÃÕ» like the force of gravity, pushes and lifts, fills the «œÃ>˜œÊÃiÀi˜ˆÊÃՏ>ÊÃ̜ÀˆV>Êv>VVˆ>Ì>]ʈÊ«Àœ‡ i`ÊmÊ>“ˆV>Ê`iÊVˆiœ]Ê
˜>V>«Àˆ° eyes, lightens the mind. We float down the slope of the hill that connects vՓœÊ`½ˆÀˆÃÊ`>ˆÊ}ˆ>}}ˆœˆ cobalto >VV>Àiââ> -L>ÀV>ÌˆÊ ÌÀ>Ê iÊ ˆ˜Ãi˜>ÌÕÀiÊ vÀ>ÃÌ>}ˆ>ÌiÊ `i> Marina Grande to the town and, before reaching iʘ>ÀˆVˆÊiÊÃÕ«iÀ>̜ʈÊvˆœÀ>ˆœ]Ê`ÕiÊÀˆÃ̜À>˜Ìˆ VœÃÌ>Ê`iÊ>ÀœÊiÊÃÕ«iÀ>̈ʈÊ`iÌÌ>}ˆÊblu marino that little heap of buildings cautiously placed on the winding side of the island, there is 31 via Don iʵÕ>V iÊV>ÃiÌÌ>ÊiVVœÊˆÊ«œÀ̜˜iÊVœœÀÊciano `iœÊÃÌ>Lˆˆ“i˜Ìœ] VˆÊÈÊÌÀœÛ>ʈ““iÀÈʘi> Giobbe Ruocco: a shy, little, baby-blue cleverly `ˆÊۈ>ÊˆÊ >“«ˆÊÓ{\Ê՘ʈ˜˜œÊ>iÊ}À>`>∜˜ˆ vœÀ>ʓi`ˆÌiÀÀ>˜i>°Ê/ÕÌÌiʏiÊÃvՓ>ÌÕÀiÊ`i positioned house that greets the sun each day and speaks to the moon every night. `ˆÊµÕiÃ̜ÊVœœÀiʘ>ÃVœÃ̜ʘiœÊë>∜ÊVœ˜‡ Vˆ>˜œ, `>Êblu cadetto >Êpervinca «>ÃÃ>˜`œ Arrival in Piazzetta is always accompanied by the V>ۜÊ`ˆÊ՘ʓÕÀœÊ>˜ÌˆVœÊiÊ>`œÀ˜>̜Ê`>Ê՘ «iÀʈ foglia di tè]ÊÈʓiÃVœ>˜œÊ>ˆÊ«ÀœvՓˆ timeless chime of the bell tower – for time stops in Capri and the sound of those bells is nothing >ÌiÀœÊiÊÃÕ«iÀLœÊ«œ“iœÊ`ˆÊ“iÌ>œÊÀ>“>̜°Ê vÀiÃV ˆÊiÊÃiÛ>}}ˆÊiÊ>VVœ“«>}˜>˜œÊvˆ˜ÊÃÕÊ> but a superficial sound, the setting for a brief, œ˜ÊiÊ«Õ«ˆiÊÀˆVœ“iÊ`ˆÊ̈˜Ì>Ê>ââÕÀÀˆ˜>]Ê`i‡ «>iȘœ°Ê,>}}ˆÕ˜ÌœÊ½ˆ˜VÀœVˆœÊÌÀ>Êۈ>Ê >Ìi˜> blue-tinted moment of eternity. Just by glancing up, we see at the intersection of the two hands of Vˆ˜ˆ>“œÊµÕiÊÛiÀLœÊV iÊÌ>˜ÌœÊÈÊ>`>ÌÌ>Ê>i iÊ Ûˆ>Ê ˆÕÃi««iÊ "À>˜`ˆ]Ê «œVœÊ «Àˆ“>Ê `ˆ the clock a shiny cushion of peacock-blue tiles vœÀ“iÊ`ˆÊµÕiÃÌ>ÊÃV ˆi˜>ÊÀœVVˆœÃ>]ʈÊºÛ>}>Ài»°Ê «ˆ>ââ>Ê `܈˜Ê iÀˆœ]Ê՘>ÊÛ>Àˆœ«ˆ˜Ì>Ê«>˜‡ that embrace a milk white pattern on which they rest undisturbed until the arrival of winter; when 6ˆ>Ê6ˆÌ̜ÀˆœÊ “>˜Õii]Êۈ>Ê-i>Ê"ÀÌ>]ÊۈVœ V ˆ˜>Ê`ˆ«ˆ˜Ì>Ê`>½>À̈ÃÌ>Ê-iÀ}ˆœÊ,ÕLˆ˜œÊ`D at last there’s silence and the bells can sing. ->˜Ê/œ““>Ü]Êۈ>ÊiÊ œÌÌi} i]Êۈ>Ê՜Àœ‡ ˆÊLi˜Ûi˜Õ̜ÊiʓœÃÌÀ>]ÊvˆiÀ>]ʈÊÃ՜ˆÊÃVÕ}˜ˆâ∠While the name of the Gran Caffè stands out in its darker blue tone, excitement hesitates on the Û>`œ°°°Ê i>ʵՈ˜Ì>ÊVÕÀÛ>Ê`ˆÊۈ>Ê*>`ÀiÊ,i‡ L>iÀˆ˜ˆÊ`>ˆÊV>âœ˜ˆÊturchesi°ÊÊ steps that invite us to climb them. The Egyptian }ˆ˜>`œÊˆÕˆ>˜ˆÊÌÀiÊÃÌÀ>`iÊÈʈ˜ÌÀiVVˆ>˜œÊˆ˜
ÀÀˆÛ>̈ʘi>Ê«ˆ>ââ>Ê«Àˆ˜Vˆ«>i]ÊL>ÃÌ>Ê>â>Ài blue window frames of Palazzo Cerio rest peacefully on the historic facade, the scent of the ՘>Ê`iˆV>Ì>ʓ>VV ˆ>Ê`ˆÊ>ââÕÀÀœ fiordaliso] }ˆÊœVV ˆÊiʓiÌÌiÀiÊ>Êv՜VœÊˆÊÃiVœ˜`œÊµÕ>‡ cobalt blue irises caresses our nostrils, and once ՘ʫÕ“L>}œ°Ê iÊÌÕÌ̜ÊiÃÌÀ>˜iœÊ>½>ÀÀœ‡ `À>˜ÌiÊ«œÃ̜ÊÃՏÊV>“«>˜ˆiÊiʘ>ÃVœÃ̜Ê`ˆiÌÀœ past the florist, two restaurants and a few houses, there’s the cyan front door of 24 via Li Campi: an }>˜â>]ʵÕiÃ̜ÊvˆœÀiÊ`>½>Àˆ>ʈ˜`iVˆÃ>ÊÃi“LÀ> >ÊV ˆiÃ>°Ê½azzurro Vi˜ÌÀ>iʈÕ“ˆ˜>ʈÊÃiÛiÀˆ anthem to the shades of this colour hidden in the iÃÃiÀÈÊÀ>ÃÃi}˜>̜Ê>>ÊÌÀ>˜µÕˆ>Ê«iÀ«i˜`ˆ‡ ˜Õ“iÀˆÊÀœ“>˜ˆÊiÊ>VVœ“«>}˜>ʏ>ÊÌÀ>˜µÕˆˆÌD concave space of an ancient wall and embellished with a superb haughty copper metal door knob. Vœ>ÀˆÌDÊ`iiÊÃÌÀ>`iÊ«iÀʘœ˜ÊÃVi}ˆiÀiÊÌÀ> `ˆÊµÕiœÊë>∜ʈ˜Vœ˜Ì>“ˆ˜>̜°Ê*œVœÊ«ˆÙ With our eyes overflowing with all these hues, the ½Õ˜>Êiʏ½>ÌÀ>° ÜÌ̜]ʏ½>˜ÌˆV>ʈ˜Ãi}˜>Êceleste º6ˆ˜ˆÊiÊ ˆ‡ verb that is so fitting to the shape of this rocky island – to wander – comes to mind. *œÃ̜Ê՘ÊÀ>“iÌ̜Ê>½>Ìiââ>Ê`iÊV՜Ài]Ê`œ‡ LˆÌi»ÊÀˆ«œÀÌ>Ê>>ÊÃi“«ˆVˆÌDÊ`iiÊVœÃiÊiÊÌÀ>‡ Via Vittorio Emanuele, via Sella Orta, vico San Vi“i˜Ìiʏ½ÕÌˆ“>ÊVÕÀÛ>ÊVœ˜`ÕViÊ`>Û>˜ÌˆÊ> ÃVˆ˜>ʘiˆÊۈVœˆÊÕ“ˆ˜œÃˆÊiÊÃÌÀiÌ̈°Ê Tommaso, via Le Botteghe, via Fuorlovado... At the fifth curve of via Padre Reginaldo Giuliani, ˜Õ“iÀœÊ{Ê`ˆÊۈ>Ê/À>}>À>ʈ˜VœÀ˜ˆVˆ>̜]ÊVœ“i œ˜Ìˆ˜Õ>˜`œÊÃÕÊۈ>ʈÕÃi««iÊ"À>˜`ˆÊˆ“‡ three roads intertwine in a delicate ÌÀ>`ˆâˆœ˜iÊÛ՜i]Ê>>ʓ>˜ˆiÀ>ÊV>«ÀiÃiÊVœ˜Êˆ LœVV ˆ>“œÊ>ÊÌiÀâ>ÊÃՏ>ÊȘˆÃÌÀ>]Êۈ>Ê/ˆ“‡ cornflower blue patch, a plumbago plant. Completely devoid of arrogance, this ▼ À>}}ˆÊ`iÊ܏i]ʏiÊÛiÀ`ˆÊVœˆ˜iÊiʏiʜ˜`iÊ`i «œ˜i]Êi`ÊiÃ>ÌÌ>“i˜ÌiÊ`œ«œÊ£ääÊ«>ÃÈ flower, with its air of uncertainty, can ▼

47 [Dentro l’isola]

iVVœVˆÊ`>Û>˜ÌˆÊ>ÊÃiÌÌiÊÃV>ˆ˜ˆ «iÀviÌÌ>“i˜Ìi linger, resigned to the peaceful verticality of Once in the main piazza, we need only to look up the roads. and focus on the second clock dial on the bell

>ˆ˜i>ÌˆÊ iÊ >`œÀ˜ˆÊ `ˆÊ ëi˜`ˆ`iÊ “>ˆœˆV i Placing a flower stem on the heart, the last curve tower hidden behind the church. The light blue robertocoin.com leads gently to number 4 via Tragara framed, as centre illuminates the austere Roman numerals VœœÀ zaffiro] VœœÀ`ˆ˜>ÌiÊ>Ê«œÀ̜˜iÊÜ«À>‡ | tradition requires, in Capri style with the sun’s and harmonises with the tranquillity of that ÃÌ>˜Ìi°Ê+Õi½>˜}œœÊ`ˆÊ̈“ˆ`>ÊLiiââ>Êm rays, the green hills and the waves of the sea untouched spot. A little way below, the ancient ՘œÊ`iˆÊÌ>˜ÌˆÊˆ““iÀÈʘiÊ«>iÃiÊ«iÀV jʈ enamelled in ultramarine. sky blue sign “Vini e Bibite” brings us back to It is between those imposing columns that the the simplicity of things, drawing us into the bright LiœÊ˜œ˜ÊÛ՜iÊ>ÌÌi˜âˆœ˜iÊiÊ눘̈Ê`>ʵÕi‡ Prussian blue gate of Villa Discopoli reminds us narrow alleys. ARIZONA MUSE FOR ROBERTO COIN®

ÃÌ>Ê VÕÀˆœÃˆÌD]Ê À>}}ˆÕ˜}ˆ>“œÊ «ˆ>ââ>Ê œvvi of the colours of the abyss that the sound of the Carrying on along via Giuseppe Orlandi we take name of the tiny street below, via Occhio Marino, the third turning on the left, via Timpone, and `œÛiʏiÊÌi˜`iÊ>ÊÃÌÀˆÃViÊLˆ>˜VœÊiÊblu `iÊ˜i‡ brings to mind. Maybe imagining the famous after exactly 100 steps we find ourselves in front }œâˆiÌ̜ÊÃi˜â>ÊiÌDÊ>VVi˜ÌÕ>˜œÊ>Ê«ÀiÃi˜â>Ê>Ç midnight blue sperm whale of the Blue Grotto, of seven perfectly aligned steps decorated with the one all the grandmothers tell stories about, splendid sapphire majolica ceramics matching Ãi˜Ìiʘi>Êȏi˜âˆœÃ>Ê«ˆ>ââiÌÌ>°Ê>ÃVˆ>˜`œÃˆ alive in the past and legend in the present. the door above. That shyly beautiful corner is one >˜`>ÀiÊ>ˆÊ} ˆÀˆ}œÀˆÊ`ˆÊÃÌÀ>`>ÊÈÊÀ>}}ˆÕ˜}iÊۈ> But the road drags down as far as the coast and, of the hidden beauties of the town, because that beyond the royal blue umbrellas of Fontelina, a which is beautiful does not want to be noticed. POIS MOI COLLECTION >Ê6ˆ}˜>Êi]ÊÜÀ«>ÃÃ>̈ʈÊcerulei Vœ“ˆ}˜œˆ robin egg blue wooden boat placidly rocks, Driven by this curiosity, we reach piazza Boffe `ˆÊ6ˆ>Ê Û>ÊVœ˜Ê½indaco ˜i½>˜ˆ“>]ÊÈÊ>À‡ blending like a chameleon in with the midday where the blue and white striped curtains of the horizon, a boat that can take us up to the sky’s small ageless shop emphasise the absent ÀˆÛ>Ê>Ê`iÃ̈˜>∜˜i\ʏ>ÊÀœÌÌ>Ê
ââÕÀÀ>]ʏ>ÊVՈ friend, Anacapri. presence in the silent square. “>}ˆ>ʘœ˜ÊÀˆÃˆi`iʘiÊVœœÀiÊ`i½>VµÕ>Êiʘi‡ Going ashore between the jagged bays along the Abandoning ourselves to the winding roads we light house coast beyond the navy blue details reach via La Vigna and, passing the cerulean >˜V iʘiÊÀˆviÃÜÊÌÕÀV ˆ˜œÊÃՏ>ÊÀœVVˆ>]ʓ> of the structure, we find ourselves immersed in blue chimneys of Villa Eva with indigo in its ˜i½>ââÕÀÀœÊV iÊÛi`ˆ>“œÊÃՏ>ʘœÃÌÀ>ʓ>˜œ the Mediterranean flora. Every shade of cyan, soul, we arrive at our destination: the Blue from cadet blue to periwinkle through teal, Grotto, whose magic is not to be found in the µÕ>˜`œ]ʈ““iÀÃ>ʈ˜ÊµÕi>Ê«œâˆœ˜iÊÃ>>Ì>] blend with the fresh wild perfumes and colour of the water nor in the turquoise ViÀV ˆ>“œÊ>Ê«ÀœÛ>Ê`ˆÊµÕi>ÊÀi>ÌD]Ê`i> accompany us up to the village. At the reflection on the rock, but in the blue we see on crossroads between via Catena and via Giuseppe our hand when, immersed in that salty potion, ViÀÌiââ>Ê`ˆÊµÕi>ÊLiiââ>°Ê `ÊiVVœÊÃՏ>ʘœ‡ Orlandi, just before piazza Edwin Cerio, a we look for proof of that reality, the certainty of ÃÌÀ>Ê«iiʏ½ˆ˜Vœ˜ÌÀœÊ`i}ˆÊ>ââÕÀÀˆÊ«ˆÙÊLiˆ\ colourful bench painted by the artist Sergio that beauty. And there, on our skin, the most Rubino welcomes us and proudly shows off its beautiful blues meet: the blue of the sky and the ½>ââÕÀÀœÊ`iÊVˆiœÊiʏ½>ââÕÀÀœÊ`iÊ“>Ài° ■ dancing scugnizzi in turquoise trousers. blue of the sea. ■

48 [People]

Unal cuore tuffo A heart-stopping dive

ndré Wolf è un fotografo sve- dese. Quattro anni fa si mette in contatto con la nostra reda- Azione e ci propone un servizio fotografico che fa parte di un progetto che sta realiz- zando con la collaborazione della Fonda- zione San Michele, all’epoca guidata da Peter Cottino, sul rapporto tra la natura e i ragazzi di Capri. Le immagini che rice- viamo e che saranno poi pubblicate nel- l’edizione del 2012 di Capri review sono splendide e riportano in tutta la loro bel- lezza e poesia dei giovani che si riappro- priano degli elementi. Volano come uccelli e nuotano come pesci. Lo scenario è quello del Faro di Punta Ca- rena, uno dei luoghi più affascinanti del-

l’isola, una baia magnifica chiusa a ▼

51 [People]

André Wolff, svedese di nascita e parigino di adozione. Le sue foto sono esposte nella collezione del Victoria and Albert Museum di Londra e sono state protagoniste di numerose mostre in giro per il mondo. Ha firmato servizi fotografici per the New York Times Magazine, the Guardian, the Independent, Rolling Stones, GQ. Nel 2000 è stato insignito del Picto Prize e nel 2010 è stato premiato dalla Hasselblad Foundation San Michele. Il libro Kings of Faro è in vendita nelle librerie dell’isola e nel bookshop di Villa San Michele, oppure si può ordinare scrivendo a [email protected]

André Wolff is Swedish by birth and Parisian by adoption. His photos are exhibited in the Victoria and Albert Museum collection in London and have featured in numerous exhibitions around the world. He has provided photographic reportage for the New York Times Magazine, the Guardian, the Independent, Rolling Stone and GQ. In 2000 he was awarded the Picto Prize and in 2010 he was awarded a grant from the Hasselblad Foundation San Michele. The book is on sale at bookshops on Capri and at the Villa San Michele bookshop, and can also be ordered by sending an email to [email protected]

sinistra dalla roccia sulla quale si innalza Altri al posto loro perpetuano un’antica tra- reappropriating the elements. They fly like il Faro e, a destra, dal Capodoglio, l’incon- dizione in quell’angolo di isola dove il sole birds and swim like fish. The setting is the Lighthouse at Punta fondibile scoglio che prende il nome dal ce- regala tramonti che tolgono il respiro. ■ Carena, one of the most fascinating places taceo che un tempo si poteva incontrare on the island: it is a magnificent bay, enclosed at one end by the cliff on which the nelle acque di Capri. È da qui, dalla cima di lighthouse stands, and on the other by the quella parete di pietra che i giovani consu- Capodoglio (Sperm whale), the unmistakeable mano il loro rito più temerario, un tuffo rock named after the cetacean family that was once to be found in the waters of Capri. lungo 18 metri. Un rito di passaggio per It is here, from the top of that wall of rock, tanti ragazzi, un rito pericoloso ma che that the young people perform their most daring rite: a dive of 18 metres. It’s a rite of MMdediterranean tassste surrounddded quasi tutti i figli di Capri hanno tentato al- passage for many youngsters, a dangerous meno una volta. E guardarli in quel volo è one, but one that nearly all the young men byy an enchanting blue ogni volta un tuffo al cuore. of Capri have tried at least once. And I “re del Faro” sono ora diventati i protago- watching them in that flight brings your heart into your mouth every time. nisti di un volume che, attraverso trenta The “kings of Faro” now feature in a book of suggestive immagini a colori e in bianco e thirty striking photos, both colour and black Capri | Datça eP ninsula | Bod rum nero, racconta di acque cristalline e sco- and white, telling a story of crystal water and rocky cliffs, sunshine, light and sunsets. And gliere scoscese, sole, luce e tramonti. E poi dives, of course, amid smiles and laughter. tuffi, sorrisi e risate. ndré Wolf is a Swedish photographer. Andrea, Francesco, Fabrizio and Simone, the Four years ago, he contacted our youngsters captured in André Wolff’s photos Saranno cresciuti ormai Andrea, France- Aeditorial team and offered us a letting off steam in a display of acrobatic sco, Fabrizio e Simone, i giovani fermati photographic reportage as part of a project feats, watched by the enraptured eyes and negli scatti di André Wolff mentre davano that he was working on with the collaboration sweet smiles of Manuela, Diana and Liviana, of the Fondazione San Michele, at that time will now be adults and maybe they no longer sfogo alle loro acrobazie sotto gli occhi in- directed by Peter Cottino, on the relationship perform those dives any more. cantati e i sorrisi gentili di Manuela, Diana between nature and the young people of But their gravity-defying acrobatics can still e Liviana. E forse quei tuffi non li fanno più. Capri. The images that we received, and that thrill us today. Others have taken their place went on to be published in the 2012 edition in perpetuating the ancient tradition in that Ma le loro acrobazie che sfidano le leggi di of Capri Review, are wonderful, showing the corner of the island, graced with breath- gravità continuano a regalare emozioni. young people in all their beauty and poetry, taking sunsets. ■

52 .comantauresticciorilr LEO MASILLO Capri

Via G. Orlandi 121 • Anacapri Via Longano 16 • Capri DI SCRITTORI E DI POETI. DEI TANTI PITTORI CHE L’HANNO RAFFIGURATA. MA ANCHE DI DESIGNER, GIOIELLIERI E STILISTI CHE ALL’ISOLA E AI SUOI TRATTI CARATTERISTICI SI ISPIRANO La Musa THE MUSE. [La Musa] BICOLORE Una texture vibrante e ipnotica nei colori IL MARE. Da questa distesa dalle mille che da sempre sono sinonimo di look sfumature d’azzurro dipendono gli approdi estivo per la morbidissima stola e le partenze. Perché Capri vive al ritmo di cashmere perfetta per le fresche serate del mare che la circonda, con le sue capresi. / TWO-TONE. This beautifully soft spettacolari mareggiate o con le giornate cashmere stole has a vibrant, hypnotic di calma piatta dove tutto sembra incantato. texture and colours that have always been Un mare ricco di vita e di meravigliose synonymous with the summer look: creature. / THE SEA. All landings and perfect for the cool Capri evenings. departures depend on this expanse of water, FARELLA • via Fuorlovado with its thousand shades of blue. Because Capri lives to the rhythm of the sea that surrounds it: the spectacular high seas or the days of flat calm when everything seems enchanted. A sea with an abundance of life and marvellous creatures.

UN COLTO CAPODOGLIO Sembra siano diventati habitué delle acque del Golfo di Napoli. Ogni anno, infatti, questi grandi cetacei vengono avvistati tra Sorrento, Capri e Punta Campanella. Un’emozione vederli. Questo è in legno e vi aiuterà a tenere ordinati i vostri libri. / A CULTURED SPERM WHALE. They seem to have become frequent visitors to the waters around the Gulf of Naples. Every year sightings are made of these large cetaceans between Sorrento, Capri and Punta Campanella. CON UN It's a real thrill to see them. This one is made GRANCHIO of wood and will help keep your books tidy. AI PIEDI CLAUDIA Nei miti e nelle leggende, piazza Vittoria • Anacapri come altri animali provvisti di scaglie o corazza, si incarica DAL MARE IN TAVOLA di sorreggere il mondo. Vestito Ornano il piatto in ceramica blu le aguglie sottili di turchese diventa ornamento con la livrea grigio argentata. / FROM THE SEA del più classico dei sandali. / A CRAB TO THE TABLE. This blue ceramic plate is decorated ON YOUR FOOT. Like other animals with slender garfish in a silvery-grey livery. with scales or shells, in myths and legends MARIORITA crabs had the task of supporting the world. piazza Vittoria • Anacapri This turquoise crab is adorning the most classic of sandals. CANFORA • via Camerelle

RIFLESSI D’AZZURRO Tutte le sfumature del mare nel grande e prezioso anello dove zaffiri e diamanti fanno da corona all’acquamarina STELLA MARIS. Le sue proporzioni riprendono la “sezione aurea” e per questo dai mille riflessi. / AZURE viene spesso associata alla perfezione. Comune in tutto il Mar Mediterraneo la si può REFLECTIONS. All the shades trovare sia lungo la superficie di rocce che tra praterie di posidonie. A Capri si incontra, of the sea appear in this large scarlatta, nella cassa dell’orologio perfetto per l’estate. / STARFISH. Its proportions ring with precious stones, follow the “golden ratio” and that's why it is often associated with perfection. where sapphires and diamonds It’s common throughout the Mediterranean sea and can be found on the tops of rocks form a crown around as well as among the meadows of posidonia under the sea. You’ll come across the aquamarine with its this scarlet one on a watch case on Capri: perfect for summer. thousand reflections. MILANO BOUTIQUE • via Camerelle • bbcapri.com LA CAMPANINA • via Vittorio Emanuele

59 [La Musa]

SANT’ANNA I LUOGHI. Impossibile non passarci. Andatela a visitare, ne vale la pena. È un piccolo gioiello È il centro di Capri, sempre piena di gente architettonico questa chiesetta nel cuore antico di Capri. e ricoperta dai tavolini dei bar. Qui Nell’abside laterale l’affresco con la Vergine la chiamano “chiazza” ed è conosciuta e il bambino che nelle mani di maestri orafi come “il salotto del mondo”. Con il suo è diventato un ciondolo prezioso. / It’s well worth Campanile è uno dei luoghi simbolo a visit. This small church in the old heart dell’isola. Questa è quella tratteggiata of Capri is a little architectural gem. In the side da Laetitia Cerio in uno dei suoi apse, there is a fresco of the Virgin and Child, disegni forse più famosi. / PLACES. You can't which has been transformed into a beautiful miss it. It's the centre of Capri and is always pendant by expert goldsmiths. full of people and covered with small bar ANGELA PUTTINI • via Le Botteghe tables. Here they call it the “chiazza”, known as "the world's drawing-room”. With its distinctive bell tower, it's one of the symbolic places of the island. Here it is, drawn by Laetitia Cerio in what may be one of her most famous sketches.

MAIOLICHE DA PASSEGGIO Arabeschi in bianco e blu tipici delle mattonelle che si incontrano sull’isola si stampano sulla borsa a due manici e la rendono unica e inconfondibile. / MAIOLICA TO CARRY AROUND. The blue and white arabesque designs typically found on tiles around the island are reproduced on this TAMMORRA bag with two handles, creating C’è il mare, ci sono i Faraglioni, le barche a unique, unmistakeable tote. con i pescatori e uno spicchio del profilo CAPRI WATCH • via Camerelle dell’isola. È dipinto a mano e sembra una gouache. / TAMBOURINE. There's the sea, the Faraglioni, the boats with fishermen and a segment of the outline of the island. It's hand-painted and looks like a gouache painting. ADELE E SILVIA • via Fuorlovado

CARTOLINE DA CAPRI Non si spediscono più, peccato. E quelle che ricordano un’isola persa nel tempo danno vita alla blusa in seta piena di fascino. / POSTCARDS FROM CAPRI. No one sends them any more, more's the pity. But the old postcards that capture an island PANORAMA DA SOGNO lost in the mists of time now È quello che si ammira dalla terrazza di Villa feature in a beautiful silk top. Lysis. Non perdetelo, salite fin lassù e portate LABORATORIO • via Ignazio Cerio UNA PIAZZA IN PEZZI. La Piazzetta a 360° via in ricordo il notes “vestito” con quel è anche un puzzle per far passare qualche ora tranquilla ai più magico paesaggio. / THE PANORAMA OF YOUR piccoli sotto l’ombrellone. / A PIAZZA IN PIECES. The DREAMS. You can enjoy it from the terrace complete Piazzetta in a jigsaw puzzle to keep the little ones of the Villa Lysis. Don't miss it: climb up there amused for a few quiet hours beneath the beach umbrella. and take home this notebook “clothed” ECO CAPRI • Galleria Laetitia Cerio • piazzetta Cerio in that magical landscape. bookshop Villa Lysis

60 [La Musa]

LA FLORA. 684 specie di piante finora censite e sparse per gli oltre dieci chilometri quadrati di questo scoglio. Persino le rupi rocciose ospitano cespugli LE ROSE E LE VIOLE di gigli ed erica accanto a sentieri “Suspireno ‘e vviole” a marzo e “tornano e boscaglie di querce e castagni. La parte li rrose” a maggio, scriveva Di Giacomo. E così verde dell’isola azzurra è un vero fioriscono piccoli giardini in ceramica. / ROSES e proprio spettacolo che si tinge di giallo AND VIOLETS. “The violets sigh” in March and a giugno quando le chiome delle ginestre “the roses return” in May, wrote Di Giacomo. dipingono il Solaro e la mulattiera che And here are some little ceramic porta a Cetrella. / THE FLORA. 684 plant gardens in bloom. species have been recorded so far, oigre.com scattered around the over ten square kilometres of this island rock. Even the rocky cliffs are home to clumps of lilies and heather beside the paths and groves of oak and chestnut trees. The green part of the azure isle offers a magnificent display that turns bright yellow in June when the flowering broom paints the slopes of the Solaro and the mule track leading to Cetrella.

L’ESSENZA DEL PARCO Dal Parco Augusto un omaggio a tutti i parchi del mondo. Una brezza mediterranea con il cuore di magnolia e vibrazioni di agrumi che lasciano il passo nelle note finali a sentori di legno e ambra. / ESSENCE OF THE PARK. A homage to all the parks of the world from the Park Augustus. A Mediterranean breeze with a heart of magnolia and hints of citrus that give way to the final notes redolent of wood and amber. CARTHUSIA via Camerelle, via Fuorlovado e via Parco Augusto • Capri viale Axel Munthe • Anacapri

COME UN GIARDINO IN FIORE È tutto un arabesco fiorito il grande foulard in seta. Giallo, bianco ma non solo. / LIKE A GARDEN IN BLOOM. A host of flowers and curls adorn this silk foulard. Yellow and white PERSONALE E and more besides. INTERCAMBIABILE ECO CAPRI • piazzetta Cerio Anche la cover dell’i-Phone è diventata un accessorio fashion. Questo è in pelle con fiori di strass. / PERSONAL AND INTERCHANGEABLE. Even the i-Phone cover has become a fashion accessory. This one is made of leather with rhinestone flowers. UNA FARFALLA TRA I FIORI. Sono simbolo di libertà, bellezza DOLCE & GABBANA e grazia. E qualche volta diventano anelli come questa, dalle ali leggere dove lo smalto via Camerelle dipinto a mano crea un inedito accostamento con l’oro e i diamanti. / A BUTTERFLY AMONG THE FLOWERS. They are symbols of freedom, beauty and grace. And sometimes they become rings, like this one with its light wings, in which hand-painted enamel appears in an unusual combination with gold and diamonds. CHANTECLER • via Vittorio Emanuele

63 EDERICO F ARTINA M HOTO BY P

VIA LE BOTTEGHE, 23 CAPRI T +39 081 837 8907 F +39 081 837 9531 WWW.PUTTINI.COM - [email protected] - WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/ANGELAPUTTINI [Dentro l’isola] Lo spettacolo del parco

Accanto ai ruderi di Villa Jovis, tra le rocce in fiore, Parco Astarita regala visioni di verde e di azzurro di Rossella Funghi

foto di Raffaele Lello Mastroianni Il parco, sul Monte Tiberio, si estende su un’area di oltre 100.000 metri quadrati. Dalle sue terrazze si può ammirare il panorama mozzafiato del golfo di Salerno, Sorrento con Punta Campanella, l’arcipelago Li Galli e la Costiera Amalfitana. ˜Ê Õœ}œÊ ܏ˆÌ>Àˆœ°Ê 1˜½ˆÃœ>Ê ˜i½ˆÃœ>Ê œ˜Ì>˜>Ê `>Ê V>“œÀiÊ iÊ `>>Ê vœ>Ê `i>Ê «ˆ>ââ>°Ê

The Park on Monte Tiberio covers an area of 1˜Ê«œ“œ˜iÊÛiÀ`iÊ>}}À>««>̜Ê>>ÊÀœVVˆ>Ê`œÛiʜ}˜ˆÊÃ}Õ>À`œÊmÊi“œâˆœ˜i]Ê`œÛiʜ}˜ˆÊ«i˜ÃˆiÀœ over 100,000 square metres. From its terraces `ˆÛi˜Ì>ÊÜ}˜œ°Ê œ“iʈÊÜ}˜œÊ`ˆÊµÕiÊL>˜V ˆiÀiÊV iÊVœ˜ÊÌi˜>Vˆ>ÊiÊ«>ÃȜ˜iÊÀˆÕÃVŒÊ>ÊÌÀ>ÃvœÀ‡ you can enjoy the breath-taking panorama over the gulf of Salerno, Sorrento with Punta “>ÀiÊ՘>Ê✘>ÊLÀՏ>ÊiÊ>LL>˜`œ˜>Ì>ʈ˜Ê՘ʓ>}˜ˆvˆVœÊ«>ÀVœÊ«iÀviÌÌ>“i˜Ìiʈ˜ÃiÀˆÌœÊ˜i½>“Lˆi˜Ìi° Campanella, the Li Galli archipelago U

and the Amalfi coast. œÊV ˆ>“>Û>˜œÊºˆÊÈ}˜œÀˆ˜œ»Êi`ÊiÀ>Ê՘œÊ`i}ˆÊœÌ̜Êvˆ}ˆÊ`ˆÊ/œ““>ÜÊ
ÃÌ>ÀˆÌ>]Ê>À“>̜ÀiÊi ▼

66 67 [Dentro l’isola]

«Àœ«ÀˆiÌ>ÀˆœÊ `i>Ê >˜V>Ê `i>Ê «i˜ˆÃœ> vÕÀœ˜œÊÌÕÌ̈ÊÃ՜ˆÊ>ʓiÌDÊ`i}ˆÊ>˜˜ˆÊ ˆ˜‡ «>ˆââ>ÌiÊiÊ«œÌ>ÌÕÀiÊ>VVÕÀ>ÌiÊ«iÀÊ}ˆÊÃ̜ÀˆVˆ In origine casa colonica fu trasformata nei primi Originally a country farmhouse, the building was THE PARK decenni del Novecento e divenne una delle due re- transformed during the first few decades of the ÜÀÀi˜Ìˆ˜>° µÕ>˜Ì>°Ê1˜>ʏ>˜`>ÊÀœVVˆœÃ>ÊV iÊÃ>ÀiLLiÊ`ˆ‡ >LiÀˆÊ«ˆÕÌ̜Ã̜ÊÌÀ>ÃVÕÀ>̈°Ê IN ALL ITS GLORY sidenze capresi di Mario Astarita, banchiere na- 20th century and became one of two homes on "Àˆ}ˆ˜>ÀˆœÊ `ˆÊ iÌ>Ê `ˆÊ -œÀÀi˜Ìœ]Ê >Àˆœ Ûi˜Ì>Ì>ʈÊ}ˆ>À`ˆ˜œÊˆ˜V>˜Ì>̜Ê`i>ÊÛiVV ˆ> >ʘœ˜Ê«iÀ`iÌiÊVœ“Õ˜µÕiʵÕiÃ̜Ê}ˆœˆiœ poletano e raffinato collezionista. Qui fu sistemata Capri owned by Mario Astarita, a Neapolitan Next to the ruins of Villa Jovis, amid parte delle preziose collezioni di arte classica, sta- banker and sophisticated art collector. He kept
ÃÌ>ÀˆÌ>Ê>ÀÀˆÛ>Ê>Ê >«ÀˆÊ>}ˆÊˆ˜ˆâˆÊ`i}ˆÊ>˜˜ˆ V>Ã>ÊVœœ˜ˆV>ÊV iÊ
ÃÌ>ÀˆÌ>Ê>ÛiÛ>Êv>Ì̜ÊÀiÃÌ>Շ ÛiÀ`iÊV iÊÈÊëiÀ>Ê«œÃÃ>Ê̜À˜>ÀiÊ«ÀiÃ̜Ê> the flowering rocks, Parco Astarita 6i˜ÌˆÊˆ˜ÊVœˆ˜Vˆ`i˜â>ÊVœ˜Ê>ÊViÃÃ>∜˜iÊ`i‡ À>ÀiÊiÊL>ÌÌiââ>̜ʺ>Ê>Vœ˜iÌÌ>»°ÊÕÀœ˜œ ÀˆÃ«i˜`iÀi°Ê->ˆÌiÊvˆ˜Ê>ÃÃÙ]ʈ˜Ê՘>Ê`œVi offers visions of green and azure blue

La Falconetta ½>Ì̈ۈÌDÊ`i>ÊL>˜V>Ê«>ÌiÀ˜>°Ê Ài`iÊ`ˆÊ՘ `ˆÃi}˜>̈Êۈ>iÌ̈]ÊVÀi>ÌiÊ}À>`ˆ˜>ÌiÊiÊÌiÀÀ>ââi «>ÃÃi}}ˆ>Ì>ÊÛiÀÜʈÊ“œ˜ÌiÊ/ˆLiÀˆœÊ>VVœ“‡ by Rossella Funghi ˆ˜}i˜ÌiÊ«>ÌÀˆ“œ˜ˆœÊVœÃÌÀՈÃViÊÃՏ½ˆÃœ>ÊV>Ãi] >Ê«ˆVVœÊÃՏʓ>Ài]ʈ˜˜>â>̈ʫ>À>«iÌ̈ÊiÊÀˆ˜‡ «>}˜>̈Ê`>Ê՘ÊÀˆ˜VœÀÀiÀÈÊ`ˆÊœÀ̈]Êۈ}˜iÊi photos by Raffaele Lello Mastroianni >LiÀ} ˆ]Êۈi° } ˆiÀi°ÊÕÀœ˜œÊ«ˆ>˜Ì>̈Ê>LiÀˆÊiÊ>ÀLÕÃ̈]ÊÃi‡ }ˆ>À`ˆ˜ˆ°Ê
`Ê>ÌÌi˜`iÀۈÊÌÀœÛiÀiÌiÊ՘œÊëi̇ t’s a solitary place. An island on an island, far Ê«œˆÊˆÊÜ}˜œ°Ê ˆÛi˜Ì>Àiʏ½Õ˜ˆVœÊ«Àœ«ÀˆiÌ>‡ “ˆ˜>ÌiÊiÃÃi˜âiÊiÊvˆœÀˆ°Ê/ÕÌ̈ÊÀˆ}œÀœÃ>“i˜Ìi Ì>VœœÊ`>ÛÛiÀœÊˆ˜`ˆ“i˜ÌˆV>Lˆi° from the noise and crowds of the piazza. A green ÀˆœÊ`iÊÌiÀÀˆÌœÀˆœÊVœ˜vˆ˜>˜ÌiÊVœ˜ÊµÕi>ÊV i >««>ÀÌi˜i˜ÌˆÊ>>ÊvœÀ>Ê>Õ̜V̜˜>Ê`i½ˆÃœ>°Ê
ÌÌÀ>ÛiÀÃ>ÌœÊ ˆÊ V>˜ViœÊ ՘>Ê Ì>ۜœââ>Ê `ˆ Ilung clinging to the rock, where every gaze inspires emotion, and every thought becomes a iÀ>ÊÃÌ>Ì>Ê՘>Ê`iiÊ`ˆ“œÀiÊ`i½ˆ“«iÀ>̜Ài iÊ£™Çn]Ê«œVœÊ«Àˆ“>Ê`ˆÊ“œÀˆÀi]Ê >Àˆœ ÛiÀ`iÊÈʜvvÀiÊÃÕLˆÌœÊ>ÊۈÈÌ>̜Ài°ÊœÊÃ}Õ>À`œ dream. Like the dream of that banker who, /ˆLiÀˆœ°Ê ˆÊۜiÀœÊµÕ>ÈÊÛi˜Ì½>˜˜ˆÊ`ˆÊÀˆViÀ‡
ÃÌ>ÀˆÌ>Ê`œ˜¢ÊVi˜Ìœ“ˆ>ʓiÌÀˆÊµÕ>`À>̈Ê`ˆ VœÀÀiʈ˜ÌœÀ˜œÊiÊÃVœ«ÀiÊ՘ʜÀˆâ✘ÌiÊv>Ì̜Ê`ˆ patiently and tenaciously, managed to transform a neglected area into a magnificent park which fits V iÊiÊ`ˆÊÌÀ>ÌÌ>̈ÛiÊ«iÀÊi˜ÌÀ>Àiʈ˜ÊVœ˜Ì>Ì̜ µÕiÃÌ>ʓiÀ>ۈ}ˆ>ÊÛiÀ`iÊ>œÊ-Ì>̜ÊiÊ«iÀÊiÃÜ VˆiœÊiÊ`ˆÊ“>ÀiÊ`œÛiʏ>ʘ>ÌÕÀ>Ê`ˆÛi˜Ì>ʏ½>À‡ perfectly into the environment. He was known as Vœ˜ÊˆÊÛ>ÀˆÊ«Àœ«ÀˆiÌ>ÀˆÊi`Ê>VµÕˆÃÌ>ÀiÊ`>ʏœÀœÊˆ >>Ê-œ«Àˆ˜Ìi˜`i˜â>Ê>ÀV iœœ}ˆV>° ÌivˆViÊ `ˆÊ ˆ˜vˆ˜ˆÌˆÊ µÕ>`ÀˆÊ V iÊ >˜˜œÊ «iÀ “the young master” and he’s one of the eight sons of Tommaso Astarita, a ship owner and owner of Ì>˜ÌˆÊÌiÀÀi˜ˆÊiÊ«œ`iÀˆÊV iÊVœ“«œ˜iÛ>˜œÊ>
LL>˜`œ˜>̜Ê>ÊÃiÊÃÌiÃÜÊiÊ>>Ê`ˆÃ«œ˜ˆLˆˆÌD Ãvœ˜`œÊ>ÊÀˆÛ>Ê`ˆÊ->iÀ˜œ]Ê-œÀÀi˜ÌœÊiÊ*՘Ì> the Bank of the Sorrento Peninsula. Originally from Û>ÃÌ>Ê✘>Ê>`ˆ>Vi˜ÌiÊ>Ê6ˆ>ʜۈð `ˆÊµÕ>V iÊۜœ˜Ì>ÀˆœÊV iʈ˜ÛˆÌ>Ê>`Êi˜ÌÀ>Ài] >“«>˜i>]ʈÊ«ˆVVœœÊ>ÀVˆ«i>}œÊˆÊ>ˆ Meta di Sorrento, Mario Astarita arrived on Capri in the early 1920s at the same time that his father’s

+ÕiˆÊVi˜ÌœVˆ˜µÕ>˜Ì>“ˆ>ʓiÌÀˆÊµÕ>`À>̈ ˆÊ*>ÀVœÊ>ÛÀiLLiÊ՘Ê}À>˜ÊLˆÃœ}˜œÊ`ˆÊ˜ÕœÛi Vœ˜Ê*œÃˆÌ>˜œ]ʏ>ÊVœÃ̈iÀ>Ê>“>vˆÌ>˜>° ▼ bank closed its business. He was heir to an immense fortune, and built houses, hotels and villas on the island. Then came his dream. To become the only owner of the land bordering on the estate of Il banchiere Mario Astarita, che oltre al parco one of Emperor Tiberius’s residences. It took costruì la vicina villa La Falconetta almost twenty years of research and negotiation to come suo intimo ritiro spirituale, aveva contact the various landowners and buy all the in progetto una discesa a mare fin sotto al Salto many plots of land and smallholdings that made up di Tiberio e fece costruire una tortuosissima tue e bronzi del padrone di casa, che furono poi part of his valuable collection of classical art, the huge area adjoining Villa Jovis. Those one e ripida serie di scale e terrazzamenti a ridosso donate ai Musei Vaticani e al Museo nazionale di statues and bronzes here, which were later della facciata rocciosa. In questa parte del Parco, hundred and fifty thousand square metres finally all Napoli. donated to the Vatican museums and the National che rimase incompiuta, attualmente è vietato became his by the mid-1950s. It was a rocky area La cancellata che costeggia viale Amedeo Maiuri museum in Naples. l'accesso al pubblico perché poco sicura of land that was to become the enchanted garden lascia intravedere questa dimora arroccata a nido The railings which run along Viale Amedeo Maiuri da percorrere. of the old country house which Astarita had had d’aquila su una ripida parete rocciosa un tempo reveal glimpses of the house, perched like an restored and had christened “La Falconetta”. The banker Mario Astarita, who created the park frequentata da personaggi illustri e dove ancor eagle’s nest on a steep rocky cliff. Once it was Avenues were designed, flights of steps and oggi gli uccelli amano sostare come quando Asta- frequented by famous people: today the birds still and built the nearby villa La Falconetta as his intimate spiritual retreat, had planned a path terraces overlooking the sea were created and rita scriveva in una sua poesia «Casa addò a prim- like to stop off there, as Astarita once wrote in a down to the sea, down to below Salto di Tiberio, parapets and railings put up. Trees, shrubs and mavera ’aucielle, / ca venivano ’a luntano, luntano, poem: “Home, where in spring the birds that come and had a set of steep, twisting stairs and flowers were planted, using only species that are / s’arrepusaveno e, doppo, p’ ’a priezza / cantavano from far off places, would rest, and afterwards, all terraces built against the rocky face. This part native to the island. In 1978, shortly before he died, canzone d’ammore». my life, they would sing songs of love.” of the Park, which remained unfinished, Mario Astarita gave a hundred thousand is closed to the public because it is unsafe. ▼

68 69 [Dentro l’isola]

>âiÊ`ˆÊÀœVVˆ>ÊV>`œ˜œÊ>ÊÃÌÀ>«ˆœ“LœÊÜÌ̜ >>ÊÀœVVˆ>ÊiÊÀiÈÃÌi˜ÌiÊ>ˆÊÛi˜ÌˆÊÃ>“>ÃÌÀˆÊ½iՇ >ʜ}˜ˆÊÌiÀÀ>ââ>ÊÛ>iʏ>ÊÃ>ˆÌ>°Ê/ÕÌÌiʈ˜‡ >ÊvÕÀˆ>ÊÌÕÀV ˆ˜>Ê`ˆÊ՘ÊVˆiœÊ`ˆÊÓ>ÌœÊ>«‡ « œÀLˆ>]ʏ>ʺÛ>ۜ>»ÊV>«ÀiÃi]ÊÈÊ>VVi˜`iÊVœ˜ V>˜Ì>ÌiÊiÊ>vv>VVˆ>ÌiÊÃՏ½ˆ˜vˆ˜ˆÌœÊ>ââÕÀÀœ° «i˜>Êvˆ>̜Ê`ˆÊ˜Õۜi°Ê1˜Ê«>iÃ>}}ˆœÊÜëiÜ ՘Ê܏>ÀiÊLi˜Ûi˜Õ̜ʈ˜Ê«Àˆ“>ÛiÀ>ÊiÊëi}˜i /À>ʏiÊÀœVViÊiʈÊVˆiœÊۜÌi}}ˆ>˜œÊˆÊ}>L‡ ÌÀ>ʈÊÛiÀ`iÊ`i>ʓ>VV ˆ>ʓi`ˆÌiÀÀ>˜i>Êiʈ >ÊÃÕ>ÊÌ>ۜœââ>ÊVœ˜ÊiÊvœ}ˆiÊÛiÃ̈ÌiÊ`ˆÊÀÕ}‡ Lˆ>˜ˆÊiʈÊ“>Ài]Ê}ˆÙʈ˜ÊL>ÃÜ]ÊÈʈ˜VÕÀÛ>] }Àˆ}ˆœÊ`i>ÊÀœVVˆ>Ê>Ê«ˆVVœÊÃՏʓ>Ài]Ê՘ʫ>i‡ }ˆ˜iʈ˜Ê>ÕÌ՘˜œ°ÊˆÊ iˆV ÀÞÃՓʫÀœvՓ>̈ >ˆÌ>]ʈ˜V>˜Ì>°Ê-ˆÊˆ˜VÀië>ʘiÊvÕÌÌÕ>ÀiÊ`ˆ Ã>}}ˆœÊV iÊi“œâˆœ˜>° `ˆÊˆµÕiÀˆâˆ>ÊÀi}>>˜œÊ“>VV ˆiÊ`ˆÊ}ˆ>œÊVœ˜ ՘½œ˜`>ʜÊÀi}>>Ê՘ÊÀˆV>“œÊ˜i>ÊÃVˆ>Ê`ˆ "“LÀ>ÊiÊvÀiÃVÕÀ>ʏiÊÀi}>>˜œÊ}ˆÊ>LiÀˆ\ʏiVVˆ] iʏœÀœÊ`œÀ>Ìiʈ˜vˆœÀiÃVi˜âi° ՘>ÊL>ÀV>°Ê½i“œâˆœ˜iÊÀˆ«Ài˜`iʘiœÊëi̇ V>ÀÀÕLˆ]ʵÕiÀViÊiÊ«ˆ˜ˆÊ`½
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}}À>««>Ì> ՘>ʏiÌÌÕÀ>ʜʫiÀÊ՘Ê`œVi]Êܘ˜œi˜ÌœÊœâˆ>Ài° VˆiœÊiʓ>Ài‚° ■

square metres of this marvellous green area to the intense turquoise of an enamel sky, streaked with heather and rosemary interweave different shades State, represented by the Department of wisps of cloud. It’s a landscape suspended of green and scents mixed with the smell of the Archaeological Heritage. Abandoned to itself, and between the green of the Mediterranean scrub and sea, with delicate and harsh aromas. Lentisk, to some willing volunteers who were invited in, the the grey of the cliffs high above the sea; a juniper and arbutus pursue each other along the Park is in great need of new fences and careful landscape to stir the emotions. The trees provide avenues. A bench on a terrace, that in itself makes pruning of the historic trees that have been rather shade and coolness: holm oaks, carob trees, oaks the walk here worthwhile, makes you want to linger neglected. But don’t miss this green jewel that we and Aleppo pines. Their twisted trunks and boughs with a book or spend a lovely drowsy afternoon can only hope will soon begin to shine again. Climb rein in the heat of the sun, spreading it gently over doing nothing. But every terrace is worth the climb. up to it, along a pleasant walk towards Monte the petals of the agapanthus that flower in May like All are enchanted places, overlooking the infinite Tiberio, through a succession of vegetable plots, blue fireworks, and creating a Mediterranean blue of the sea. Seagulls wheel between the rocks vineyards and gardens, and you will be met by the backlighting effect against the indigo of the sky. and sky, and the sea, far down below, swells, truly unforgettable glory of the park. After passing Down below, timorous lizards peep out, and some breathes, enchants. It ripples with the rise and fall through the gate, visitors are greeted by a mass of of the petals reveal themselves to be a transparent of a wave or creates lacework in the wake of a different shades of green. As you gaze around the mauve. Clinging to the rock and resistant to the salt boat. The spectacular panorama offers further park, you discover a horizon of sky and sea, where winds, the euphorbia, called “vavolla” on Capri, thrills when Villa Malaparte and the Faraglioni nature, as artist, has created an infinite number of lights up with a sunny welcome in spring, and appear together in a single frame. It’s an enchanted paintings against the background of the shores of switches off its palette of colours with its rust- place, where time stands still, where the rock has Salerno, Sorrento and Punta Campanella, the little coloured leaves in autumn. The helichrysum, remained rock, perhaps because, as Savinio said: Li Galli archipelago with Positano, and the Amalfi smelling of liquorice, provides bursts of yellow with “Up there, destiny doesn’t touch the earth, but coast. Rocky ledges drop steeply down beneath the its golden inflorescence. Rockroses, myrtle, remains suspended between the sky and sea.” ■

71 [Dentro l’isola]

IL GIARDINO DELLA MEMORIA Dopo vent’anni dalla prima edizione, è stato dato nuovamente alle stampe il libro di Dieter Richter dedicato al cimitero acattolico di Capri (Il giardino della memoria, La Conchiglia Edizioni, euro 20). La seconda edizione trova un’isola completamente diversa da quella degli anni Novanta e con lei è cambiato anche il suo “giardino della memoria”. Per prima cosa il cimitero non è più in stato di totale abbandono poi, complice il tempo trascorso, la lista degli “ospiti” ha accolto nuovi nomi. Queste sono le motivazioni della ristampa, ma lo spirito del volume è rimasto lo stesso. Ogni pagina chiede al lettore di entrare e ammirare un luogo che, nonostante sia un cimitero, non ha nulla di macabro o di spaventoso. Inoltre, come spiega Raffaele La Capria nella presentazione, «soprattutto l’elenco delle persone che furono sepolte nel cimitero acattolico e le brevi didascalie dedicate alle loro vite toccano l’animo del lettore e gli rendono questo luogo quasi famigliare».

THE GARDEN OF REMEMBRANCE Twenty years after publication of the first edition, the book by Dieter Richter dedicated to the non-Catholic cemetery on Capri (Il giardino della memoria, La Conchiglia Edizioni, 20 euros) is being republished. The second edition finds itself on a totally different island from that of the 1990s, and the “Garden of Remembrance” has changed with it. First of all, the cemetery is no longer in a state of total abandonment, and secondly, with the passing of time, some new names have been added to the list of “guests”. These are the reasons for reprinting it, but the spirit of the book has remained the same. Every page invites the reader to enter and admire a place that, despite being a cemetery, has nothing macabre or frightening about it. Moreover, as Raffaele La Capria explains in her presentation, “it is above all the list of people buried in the non-Catholic Cemetery, and the brief information about their lives, that touch the soul of the reader and make this almost a family place.”

A hidden alendo dalla Marina Grande verso Un gioiello jewel Capri, lì sulla destra dove la strada fa una curva a gomito e la Spendenza aumenta leggermente, un can- cello in metallo verde si apre su uno dei tanti gioielli dell’isola che forse ancora nascostodi Silvia Baldassarre pochi conoscono. È il cimitero acattolico, un luogo dove la memoria incontra la poe- sia e insieme trasformano la morte in oblio. Il cimitero, rispecchiando appieno lo spi- rito dell’isola, sin dalla sua fondazione nel 1878 ospita uomini e donne di ogni razza, religione, costume sociale e orientamento sessuale. È qui, su questa terrazza che si affaccia sul mare azzurro del Golfo di Na- poli che tanti personaggi, più o meno fa- mosi hanno trovato e il più delle volte scelto esilio e sepoltura. Molti i tedeschi e gli inglesi come il suo fon- datore George Hayward. E tante le persone che hanno contribuito ad alimentare il mito

dell’isola come Lucio Amelio, Jaques ▼

73 [Dentro l’isola]

Fersen, Norman Douglas e le sorelle Wolcott-Perry, ma anche personaggi della storia più recente come il pittore caprese Attilio Lembo che riposa in un angolo di isola che sembra uscito da uno dei suoi quadri. Una magia si irradia da questo giardino della memoria legato alla sua isola meta da secoli di tanti “ritorni”. C’è chi l’ha eletta propria di-

mora, chi torna periodicamente per brevi o COMPAGNIAITALIANA.IT

lunghi periodi, e c’è chi ha deciso di rima- Un modo diverso per visitare il giardino della memoria e scoprire frammenti pre- nerci tutta la vita, anche quella ultraterrena. ziosi del passato di Capri è lo spettacolo E sono tanti e tutti uniti da un grande amore “There is no death” promosso dall’Assesso- rato alla Cultura ed Eventi della Città di e un richiamo ancor più forte verso Capri. Qui Capri e organizzato da Nesea. Un percorso la magia è anche quella di trovare sempre un alla luce delle torce e della luna carico di suggestione e di spiritualità che ha come fil fiore fresco accanto a qualche tomba. Un ca- rouge il contrasto: luce e oscurità, emargi- nazione ed integrazione, straniero e indi- prese? Forse un turista? C’è un’aura di mi- s you climb up from Marina Grande geno, cattolico e acattolico. Guidati da due stero su questa storia. Forse ogni persona che towards the town of Capri, on the right attori e accompagnati dalla grazia danzante where there is a hairpin bend in the di una ballerina si possono rivivere le storie entra in questo luogo vuole lasciare un segno A di artisti, poeti, scrittori e politici che scel- road and the incline becomes a little steeper, del proprio passaggio e lo fa ponendo un fiore is a green metal gate that opens onto one of sero l’isola come definitiva dimora e che the island’s many jewels, still perhaps hanno contribuito alla nascita del mito che o recitando una poesia. Qualcuno lascia l’ha resa famosa nel mondo. unknown to many people. It’s the non- In calendario per il 4 settembre. anche una firma sul libro che dal 2005 è espo- Catholic cemetery, a place where memory sto nella cappella. A volte un grido di denun- meets poetry and together they transform A NIGHT AT THE CEMETERY death into oblivion. A different way to visit the garden of cia contro l’incuria, più spesso un pensiero di Since it was founded in 1878, the cemetery remembrance and discover precious pieces of vicinanza per gli ospiti di questo cimitero che, has been host to men and women of all races, Capri’s past is the performance titled “There is religions, social traditions and sexual no death”, an initiative of the Assessor for per dirla con le parole di Edwin Cerio, è il «più orientation, fully respecting the spirit of the Culture and Events for Capri, organized by NESEA. It’s a walk by torch-light and moonlight, delizioso luogo di sepoltura del mondo». ■ island. It is here, on this terrace overlooking the blue sea of the Gulf of Naples, that many full of fascination and spirituality, that takes contrast as its guiding theme: light and darkness, people, famous or not, have found, and in most marginalization and integration, foreigner and cases chosen, their exile and burial place. native, Catholic and non-Catholic. Led by two Among them are many Germans and British, actors and accompanied by the graceful dancing such as the founder George Hayward. And of a ballerina, visitors will be able to relive the there are many people who have contributed stories of artists, poets, writers and politicians to the growth of the legend of Capri, such as who chose the island as their final home and who Lucio Amelio, Jacques Fersen, Norman contributed to the creation of the legend that has Douglas and the Wolcott-Perry sisters, as made Capri famous throughout the world. well as more recent characters from history To be held on 4 September. such as the Capri artist Attilio Lembo, who Info: neseacapri.it rests in a corner of the island that could have stepped out of one of his paintings. left by someone from Capri? Or maybe a A magic radiates from this garden of tourist? There’s an aura of mystery about it. remembrance, bound to an island that has been Perhaps everyone who comes here wants to the destination of so many “homecomings” leave something to mark their visit and does over the centuries. There are those who have so by leaving a flower or reciting a poem. made Capri their home, those who return Some also leave their signatures in a book periodically for short or long periods, and those that has been displayed in the chapel since who have decided to stay here their whole lives, 2005. Sometimes it is an indignant protest including in the afterlife. And all of them are about the neglect of the garden, but more united by their great love and the even stronger often it expresses a touching thought for the pull of Capri. Another magical thing about this guests lying in this cemetery, described by place is that you always find a fresh flower Edwin Cerio as “the most enchanting burial beside one or other of the tombs. Has it been place in the world”. ■

74

[Dentro l’isola]

921 gradini che si arrampicano sul fianco del Monte Solaro. La chiamano Fenicia e offre alcuni fra i panorami più belli dell’isola La scala testo e foto di Alessandro Scoppa nella roccia

Ripida, scavata nella pietra, la Scala Fenicia è un’opera ardita e straordinaria ed è una delle più importanti testimonianze della dominazione greca sull’isola.

The steep Phoenician Steps were carved into the rocks, a courageous and extraordinary piece of work and also one of the most important Àˆ“>Ê`i>ÊVœÃÌÀÕ∜˜iÊ`i>ÊÃÌÀ>`>ÊÌÀ>Ê >«ÀˆÊiÊ
˜>V>«ÀˆÊˆÊ`ÕiÊVœ“Õ˜ˆÊ`i‡ testimonies of Greek domination on the island. ½ˆÃœ>ÊiÀ>˜œÊ՘ˆÌˆÊ܏œÊ`>Êº*>ÃÃïiœ»]Ê՘ÊiÀ̜ʫ>ÃÜÊ`ˆÊ“œ˜Ì>}˜>ÊiÊ`> ՘>Ê}À>`ˆ˜>Ì>ÊV iÊÈÊ>ÀÀ>“«ˆV>Ê>ÊÃiÀ«i˜Ìˆ˜>ʏ՘}œÊˆÊÀˆ«ˆ`œÊvˆ>˜VœÊ`i P œ˜ÌiÊ-œ>Àœ\ʏ>Ê-V>>Êi˜ˆVˆ>°
Ê`ˆÃ«iÌ̜Ê`iÊ˜œ“i]ʏ>Ê-V>>ʘœ˜ÊmÊi˜ˆVˆ>ʓ>ÊÀiV>°ÊÀiV>Êmʈ˜v>Ì̈ʏ>ÊÌiV˜ˆV>Ê`ˆ

VœÃÌÀÕ∜˜i]ÊVœ˜ÊˆÊ}À>`ˆ˜ˆÊÃV>«i>̈ʘi>ÊۈÛ>ÊÀœVVˆ>Æʈ˜Êi«œV>ÊÀœ“>˜>ÊÃÕLŒ ▼

78 79 [Dentro l’isola] ՘ʫÀˆ“œÊÀiÃÌ>ÕÀœ]ÊÌ>˜ÌœÊV iÊ}ˆÊÃÌÕ`ˆœÃˆ «ÀœL>Lˆ“i˜ÌiÊ µÕiÃÌ>Ê «ˆ>â✏>Ê `ˆÊ ÜÃÌ> “œÀ>ÊV iʜ}}ˆÊmʈÊv>“œÃœÊ“ÕÃiœ°Ê Ê«Àœ‡ Dedicata a Sant’Antonio THE STEPS IN THE ROCK «ÀiviÀˆÃVœ˜œÊV ˆ>“>À>ÊÃV>>Ê}ÀiVœ‡Àœ“>˜>° iÈÃÌiÛ>Ê}ˆDʈ˜Êi«œV>ÊÀœ“>˜>]ÊiÊ`>ʵՈʏœ «ÀˆœÊVœ˜Ê՘>ÊÀˆ>ÃÃ>˜ÌiÊۈÈÌ>Ê>ˆÊ}ˆ>À`ˆ˜ˆ 921 steps climbing up the side œ˜Ê>ÊVœÃÌÀÕ∜˜iÊ`i>ÊÃÌÀ>`>]ÊÃՏÊvˆ˜ˆÀi Ã}Õ>À`œÊë>âˆ>ʏ՘}œÊÌÕÌ̜ʈÊ}œvœÊ`ˆÊ >‡ `ˆÊ 6ˆ>Ê ->˜Ê ˆV iiÊ «Õ¢Ê ÌiÀ“ˆ˜>Ài La cappella di Sant’Antonio è detta anche cap- cappella con il ricavato di una vincita al lotto. pella dei marinai perché in passato il fuoco che Sant’Antonio in persona gli aveva dato i numeri of Monte Solaro. They are `i½"Ì̜Vi˜ÌœÊ V>``iÊ ˆ˜Ê `ˆÃÕÃœÊ iÊ Àˆ“>Ãi «œˆ°Ê >ʈÊÌÀ>Ì̜ʫˆÙÊi“œâˆœ˜>˜ÌiÊmʏ½Õ‡ ½>ÃViÃ>Ê`i>Ê-V>>Êi˜ˆVˆ>Êiʈ˜ˆâˆ>Àiʏ> vi ardeva all’interno fungeva da guida e conforto in sogno! the Phoenician Steps, and from ˆ˜>}ˆLˆiÊvˆ˜œÊ>Ê£™™n]ʵÕ>˜`œÊ՘ÊÃiVœ˜`œ ̈“œÊ>˜VœÀ>Ê`>Ê>vvÀœ˜Ì>Ài°Ê-ˆÊ«>ÃÃ>Ê>Ê`ˆ ÃVœ«iÀÌ>Ê`ˆÊ
˜>V>«Àˆ° a chi andava per mare di notte. Fu edificata tra Ogni anno, nei primi tredici giorni di giugno si here you can enjoy some of the best il XVII e il XVIII secolo su una piazzola naturale rinnova l’annuale tredicina di Sant’Antonio: di views of the island ˆ“«œÀÌ>˜ÌiÊÀiÃÌ>ÕÀœÊ½ >ÊÀiÃ>ʘ՜Û>“i˜Ìi ÜÌ̜Ê`i}ˆÊˆ“«œ˜i˜ÌˆÊ«ˆ>ÃÌÀˆÊV iÊÀi}}œ˜œ iÀ̜]Ê«iÀÊ}ˆÊ>˜ÌˆV ˆÊ>˜>V>«ÀiÈʏ>Ê-V>> a metà della Scala Fenicia, considerata posizione primo mattino vi si celebra la messa al termine strategica non solo per la sosta. Durante l’occu- della quale si distribuisce il pane benedetto. Le «iÀVœÀÀˆLˆi°Ê >ÊÃÌÀ>`>ÊiÊÈÊÃLÕV>Ê>Ê`ˆÊÜ«À>Ê`ˆÊiÃÃ>] i˜ˆVˆ>ÊiÀ>ÊÌÕÌ̽>ÌÀœÊV iÊ՘½ˆ`ˆˆ>V>Ê«>Ç text and photos by Alessandro Scoppa pazione francese seguita alla presa di Capri nel celebrazioni si ripetono poi nella chiesa parroc- "}}ˆ]ÊVœ˜ÊˆÊÃ՜ˆÊ™Ó£Ê}À>`ˆ˜ˆÊ«iÀÊ£]ÇÊV ˆ‡ ˆ˜iÀ«ˆV>˜`œÃˆÊÕ˜}œÊˆÊvˆ>˜VœÊ`i>ʓœ˜‡ Ãi}}ˆ>Ì>]Ê µÕ>˜ÌœÊ «ˆÕÌ̜ÃÌœÊ Õ˜>Ê v>̈VœÃ> 1808, fu fortificata con un muro di difesa lungo chiale di Santa Sofia, in posizione e orario più co- l’intero sagrato. Tenuta nei secoli sempre in ef- modi; ma è bello vedere quante persone ancora ine hundred and twenty-one steps œ“iÌÀˆ]ÊVœ«ÀiÊ՘Ê`ˆÃˆÛiœÊ`ˆÊVˆÀV>ÊÎää Ì>}˜>ÊV iʵՈÊV>`iʵÕ>ÈÊ>Ê«ˆœ“Lœ°Êʈ ÃV>À«ˆ˜>Ì>Ê`>Ê`œÛiÀÊVœ“«ˆiÀiʵ՜̈`ˆ>˜>‡ ficiente stato dal semplice amore degli anaca- oggi riempiono la piccola chiesa e l’ancor più pic- climbing up the side of Monte Solaro “iÌÀˆÊi`ÊmÊ՘œÊ`iˆÊ«iÀVœÀÈʫ>iÃ>}}ˆÃ̈Vˆ ÌÀ>Ì̜Ê`œÛiÊܘœÊ>˜VœÀ>ÊۈÈLˆˆÊˆÊÀiÃ̈Ê`iˆ “i˜Ìi°Ê À>˜œÊÜ«À>ÌÌÕÌ̜ʏiÊ`œ˜˜iÊV i] presi per il loro Santo, sulla facciata la lapide colo sagrato, mantenendo viva una tradizione di Noffering some of the most beautiful views marmorea ricorda il benefattore che restaurò la fede e devozione. of the island: the Scala Fenicia (Phoenician «ˆÙʈ˜ÌiÀiÃÃ>˜ÌˆÊ`i½ˆÃœ>°Ê˜Ê`ˆÃViÃ>]Ê`> }À>`ˆ˜ˆÊ}ÀiVœ‡Àœ“>˜ˆ]Êi`ÊmÊ>˜V iʵÕiœ “i˜ÌÀiÊ}ˆÊ՜“ˆ˜ˆÊiÀ>˜œÊœVVÕ«>̈Ê>Ê>ۜÀœ Steps). Before the road between Capri and
˜>V>«ÀˆÊÈÊÀ>}}ˆÕ˜}iÊ >Àˆ˜>ÊÀ>˜`iʈ˜ «ˆÙÊÛiÀ̈}ˆ˜œÃœ°Ê
˜V iÊ>}}À>««>̈Ê>Ê«>‡ ˜iˆÊV>“«ˆÊœÊˆ“L>ÀV>̈ÊVœ“iÊ«iÃV>̜Àˆ]ʓ>‡ Anacapri was built, the two towns were connected only by a steep mountain pass named “iâ⽜À>Ê iÊ >Ê *ˆ>ââiÌÌ>Ê `ˆÊ >«ÀˆÊ ˆ˜Ê ՘ À>«iÌ̜ÊVœ˜ÊˆÊL>Ì̈V՜ÀiÊiʈÊÃÕ`œÀˆÊvÀi``ˆ] Àˆ˜>ˆÊiÊV>>v>̈]Ê}ˆœÀ˜œÊ`œ«œÊ}ˆœÀ˜œÊÃ>ˆ‡ Passetiello and by the Scala Fenicia’s winding ՘½>ÌÀ>ÊÛi˜Ìˆ˜>Ê`ˆÊ“ˆ˜Ṏ°Ê/ÕÌÌ>ۈ>]Êmʏ> mʈ“«œÃÈLˆiÊÀiÃÌ>Àiʈ˜`ˆvviÀi˜ÌˆÊ>>ÊۈÃÌ> Û>˜œÊiÊÃVi˜`iÛ>˜œÊiÊVi˜Ìˆ˜>ˆ>Ê`ˆÊ}À>`ˆ˜ˆ steps along the sheer side of Monte Solaro. Despite the name, the Steps are not Phoenician

Ã>ˆÌ>Ê`>ÊL>ÃÜÊ>ÊÀi}>>ÀiÊ՘Ê}À>`Õ>iÊVÀi‡ V iÊÈÊ}œ`iÊ`>ʵÕ>ÃÃÙ°Ê Êvˆ˜>“i˜Ìi]ÊiVVœ «œÀÌ>˜`œÊÃՏÊV>«œÊ>VµÕ>]ÊVˆLœ]ʏi}˜> ▼ but Greek. The construction technique is in truth

ÃVi˜`œÊ`ˆÊi“œâˆœ˜ˆ°Ê-ˆÊˆ˜ˆâˆ>Ê«œVœÊ«ˆÙÊÃÕ ½>˜ÌˆV>Ê>Û>“«œÀÌ>Ê`ˆÊ
˜>V>«Àˆ]ʜÌÀiʏ> Lungo il cammino si incontrano Greek, with steps chiselled into the rock – scholars delle croci incise sulla pietra: in fact prefer to call them the Graeco-Roman `iÊ«œÀ̜Ê`ˆÊ >Àˆ˜>ÊÀ>˜`i]Ê«Ài˜`i˜`œ µÕ>iÊ՘>ÊۜÌ>ÊÈÊ`œÛiÛ>Ê>ÌÌÀ>ÛiÀÃ>ÀiÊ՘ furono commissionate dai vescovi steps. A first restoration was carried out in Roman di Capri per chiedere la protezione times. When the road across the island was built at >Ê Ûˆ>Ê i˜ˆVˆ>°Ê "ÌÀi«>ÃÃ>ÌˆÊ ˆÊ “ÕÀiÌÌˆÊ > «œ˜ÌiʏiÛ>̜ˆœ]ʜ}}ˆÊÜÃ̈ÌՈ̜Ê`>Ê՘>ÊVœ‡ divina contro le frane che spesso si staccavano dalla montagna. the end of the 19th century, the steps were ÃiVVœÊV iÊ`iˆ“ˆÌ>˜œÊ>˜ÌˆV ˆÊۈ}˜ï]Ê>«‡ “œ`>Ê ÃÌÀ>`ˆ˜>Ê `ˆÊ “>Ì̜˜ˆÊ ÀœÃÈ°Ê -œi‡ A destra, la piccola Cappella abandoned, neglect made them impassable, a The Chapel of Saint Anthony commemorates the benefactor who restored the «>ˆœ˜œÊˆÊ«Àˆ“ˆÊ}À>`ˆ˜ˆ°Ê*Àˆ“>ÊÈÊ>ÌÌÀ>ÛiÀÃ> Û>˜`œÊ œÊ Ã}Õ>À`œ]Ê ˜œÌˆ>“œÊ ՘>Ê ÃÌÀ>˜> di Sant’Antonio, patrono di Anacapri. condition that lasted until 1998, when a second The chapel of Saint Anthony is also known as the chapel with his lottery win. It was Saint Anthony major restoration made them accessible once Along the way there are crosses ՘>Ê LœÃV>}ˆ>Ê >LL>ÃÌ>˜â>Ê vˆÌÌ>]Ê «œˆ]Ê > vˆ}ÕÀ>Ê>vv>VVˆ>Ì>Ê>Ê«>À>«iÌ̜Ê`ˆÊ՘>Êۈ> seamen’s chapel because in the past the fire that himself who gave him the winning numbers in a again. Today, the 921 steps cover 1.7 km and a carved into the rocks: they weremade used to burn inside the chapel was a guide and a dream! height difference of about 300 metres offering one “>˜œÊ>ʓ>˜œÊV iÊÈÊÃ>i]ÊÈÊÃVœÀ}iÊÃi“«Ài ÌÕÌÌ>ÊLˆ>˜V>]ÊÃÕʈ˜Ê>Ìœ\Êmʏ>Ê-vˆ˜}iÊ`ˆÊ6ˆ> by order of the bishops of Capri, and comfort to those who were at sea during the Every year, during the first thirteen days of June their purpose was to invoke for divine of the most interesting panoramic itineraries night. It was built between the 17th and 18th the annual tredicina di Sant’Antonio, the thirteen- «ˆÙÊ>“«ˆœÊˆÊ“>ÀiÊ>Ê«Àœ«ÀˆœÊvˆ>˜Vœ°Ê-ˆ ->˜Ê ˆV ii°Ê+Õ>˜`œÊ˜i}ˆÊՏ̈“ˆÊ`i‡ protection against the frequent across the island. Descending from Anacapri, centur on a natural ledge, half way up the day novena to Saint Anthony is renewed: mass is landslides. On the right, the small Marina Grande can be reached in half an hour and Ã>iÊ>˜VœÀ>Êi`ÊiVVœÊV iÊVˆÊÈʈ“L>ÌÌiʈ˜ Vi˜˜ˆÊ`i½"Ì̜Vi˜ÌœÊ
ÝiÊ Õ˜Ì iÊ>ÀÀˆÛ¢ Phoenician Steps and was considered not only a celebrated early in the morning and at the end of Chapel of Saint Anthony, patron La Piazzetta di Capri can be reached in fifty saint of Anacapri. resting place but also a strategic position. Capri mass blessed bread is distributed. The ՘>Ê “ˆ˜ÕÃVœ>Ê V ˆiÃ>]Ê VœÃŒÊ «ˆVVœ>Ê V i ˆ˜ÊµÕiÃ̜ʫ՘̜]Ê>ÊÃ՜ʫœÃ̜ÊV½iÀ>˜œÊi minutes. It is, however, the climb upwards that was taken by the French in 1808, and during the celebrations are repeated in the parish Church of rewards you with a crescendo of emotions. It Ãi“LÀ>Ê՘>ÊV>ÃiÌÌ>ÊÀÕL>Ì>Ê`>Ê՘ʫÀiÃi«i\ ÀœÛˆ˜iÊ`ˆÊ՘>ÊV>««i>Ê`i`ˆV>Ì>Ê>Ê->˜Ê ˆ‡ French occupation the chapel was fortified with a Saint Sofia, a more convenient location and at a defence wall all along the churchyard. Through the more convenient time; it is wonderful to see how begins a little above the Marina Grande port along mʏ>ÊV>««i>Ê`ˆÊ->˜Ì½
˜Ìœ˜ˆœÊ`>Ê*>`œÛ>] V ii°Ê-VœÀ`>˜`œÊˆ˜Ê՘ʏ>“«œÊ>Êv>̈V> centuries, this chapel has been cared for and kept many people still fill the small Church and the even via Fenicia. After passing the dry stone walls that «>ÌÀœ˜œÊ`ˆÊ
˜>V>«Àˆ]ÊÃՏÊVՈʫˆVVœœÊÃ>‡ `i>ÊÃ>ˆÌ>]ÊÃiʘiʈ˜˜>“œÀ¢Ê>Ê«Àˆ“>ÊۈÃÌ> in an efficient state by the devout Anacapri smaller churchyard today, keeping alive a tradition mark the boundaries of ancient vineyards, the first inhabitants. On the facade, the marble plaque of faith and devotion. steps appear. First you cross rather thick

}À>̜ÊVˆÊÈʫբÊviÀ“>ÀiÊ>ÊÀˆ«Ài˜`iÀiÊvˆ>̜\ iÊ`œ«œÊµÕ>V iÊ>˜˜œÊۈÊVœÃÌÀՌʏ>ÊÃÕ>Ê`ˆ‡ woods, then, as you go higher, you have a ▼

80 81 [Dentro l’isola]

iÊ«iÀvˆ˜œÊ“>ÌiÀˆ>iÊ`>ÊVœÃÌÀÕ∜˜i°Ê-iÊۈ ÃÌiʘœÌ>̜Ê`ˆ«ˆ˜ÌiÊÃÕÊ`ˆÊiÃÃiʵՈÊ՘>ʓ>˜œ] more extensive view of the sea. Climbing higher still you come to a tiny church, so small it seems vœÃÌiÊ ÌÀœÛ>ÌˆÊ Õ˜}œÊ >Ê -V>>Ê i˜ˆVˆ>Ê ˜i ŒÊ՘>ÊÌiÃÌ>Ê`ˆÊ>˜ˆ“>i]ʏŒÊ>˜VœÀ>Ê՘ÊvˆœÀio like a little house stolen from a nativity scene: it is £Ç£™]ÊۈÊÃ>ÀiÃÌiʈ“L>ÌÌṎʈ˜Ê՘>Ê«ÀœViÇ À>˜œÊ iÊ Ó°xääÊ Àˆ}}ˆœiÊ `iÊ «>ۈ“i˜Ìœ the chapel of Saint Anthony of Padua, patron saint of Anacapri. You can stop in the churchyard and Ȝ˜iÊ`ˆÊv>˜VˆÕiÊVœ˜Êˆ˜ÊÌiÃÌ>ÊV>ÃÃiÌÌiÊ`ˆ `i>Ê ˆiÃ>Ê œ˜Õ“i˜Ì>iÊ `ˆÊ ->˜Ê ˆ‡ catch your breath: probably this stopping place i}˜œÊ«ˆi˜iÊ`ˆÊ«ˆ>ÃÌÀii°Ê-LˆÀVˆ>˜`œ]Ê>ÛÀi‡ V ii]Ê«œÀÌ>Ìiʏ>ÃÃÙʈ˜Ê«ˆVVœˆÊ}ÀÕ««ˆÊ`> already existed in Roman times, and from here the whole length of the Bay of Naples can be seen. The >Àˆ˜>ÊÀ>˜`i]Ê`œÛ½iÀ>˜œÊÃL>ÀV>ÌiÊ՘> most thrilling stretch, however, is the last to be ۜÌ>ÊVœÌÌiʘiˆÊvœÀ˜ˆÊ`ˆÊ >«œˆ° tackled. You pass under some impressive pillars that support the road and you find yourself above >ʏ>Ê-V>>Êi˜ˆVˆ>ÊÀ>VVœ˜Ì>Ê>˜V iÊ>ÌÀi the road itself, clambering up the side of the Ã̜Àˆi°Ê ÕÀ>˜Ìiʏ>ÊÃ>ˆÌ>ÊÈʘœÌ>˜œÊ`ii almost sheer mountain side. This stretch is where the remains of the Graeco-Roman steps can still VÀœVˆÊˆ˜VˆÃiʘi>ÊÀœVVˆ>°ÊÕÀœ˜œÊÀi>ˆââ>Ìi be seen, and it is also the most dizzying. Even Gradino dopo gradino la scala «iÀÊۜœ˜ÌDÊ`iˆÊÛiÃVœÛˆÊ`ˆÊ >«ÀˆÊ˜iÊ86 when gripping the railings, with your pulse racing si inerpica attraversando and breaking out in a cold sweat, it is impossible anche zone di sottobosco e offrendo ÃiVœœ]Ê>Ê«ÀœÌi∜˜iÊ`>}ˆÊºÃ«ˆÀˆÌˆÊ“>ˆ}˜ˆ»] not to enjoy the view from up here. And here at un paesaggio sempre più suggestivo “>Ê>˜V iÊ`>>ÊV>`ÕÌ>Ê`ˆÊ“>ÃÈ]ÊiÛi˜ÌÕ>‡ last are the stone gates of Anacapri, where once, a mano a mano che si sale. after passing through, there was a drawbridge to ˆÌDÊÌÕÌ̽>ÌÀœÊV iÊÀ>À>Ê`>ʵÕiiÊ«>À̈°Ê iˆ cross which has now been substituted with an Step after step the Phoenician Steps clamber up across areas of undergrowth Ài}ˆÃÌÀˆÊVœ“Õ˜>ˆÊ`ˆÊ“œÀÌiÊ`i½"Ì̜Vi˜Ìœ] easy red brick road. Looking up, you notice a offering an ever more picturesque strange figure on the parapet of a white view as they climb higher and higher. villa, high up: it is the sphynx, and the villa ▼

Èʏi}}iʏ>ÊÌÀˆÃÌiÊVÀœ˜>V>Ê`ˆÊ՘>Ê}ˆœ‡ ▼

Un’antica, minuscola cantina ricavata dalle storiche cisterne romane e che dalla Scala Fenicia prende il nome. Qui nasce il Capri Doc bianco frutto del rac- colto della piccola vigna che si estende per circa Una sosta Doc

4.000 metri quadrati su antiche terrazze contenute da muri a secco. Una raccolta esclusivamente ma- nuale. Forbici alla mano ci si arrampica sui pergolati e si riempiono le cassette che poi vengono traspor- tate a spalla in cantina. Per quanti volessero conoscerla più da vicino è pos- sibile richiedere una visita guidata al terreno e alla cantina. Troverete un bianco elegante, sapido, con leggere note agrumate ottimo motivo per una visita con degustazione. Stop for a glass A tiny, ancient wine cellar located in what once were Roman cisterns, taking its name from the Phoenician Steps: this is where White Capri Doc (controlled designation of origin) wine is born from the exclusively hand-picked grapes of the small vineyard covering about 4,ooo square metres of ancient terraces framed by dry stone walls. With shears in their hands, the pickers climb onto the pergola vines and fill crates that are then carried down to the wine cellar by hand. For those who would like to learn more and at close quarters, guided visits to the vineyards and wine cellars can be requested. Here you will be greeted with a glass of Capri’s elegant, sapid wine with light citrusy notes: an excellent reason for a visit with wine tasting.

Info: [email protected] • tel. 081.8389403

82 piazza Umberto I, 16 • tel: 081 837 0011 [Dentro l’isola]

Û>˜ˆÃȓ>ÊÀ>}>ââ>ÊV i]ÊVœ«ˆÌ>Ê`>Ê՘>Ê«ˆi‡ ÌÀ>ÊÃÌ>VV>Ì>ÈÊ`>Ê“œ˜Ìi]ÊÈÊëi˜Ãiʘi> V>««i>Ê`ˆÊ->˜Ì½
˜Ìœ˜ˆœ]Ê`œÛiÊvÕÊ>`>}ˆ>Ì> `>iÊVœ“«>}˜iʘiÊÌi˜Ì>̈ۜÊ`ˆÊvœÀ˜ˆÀiʈ «Àˆ“ˆÊÜVVœÀÈ°Ê
˜˜ˆÊ`œ«œ]ÊvÕÊ«Àœ«ÀˆœÊ> V>««i>Ê >Ê iÃÃiÀiÊ Ãi“ˆ`ˆÃÌÀÕÌÌ>Ê `>Ê Õ˜> vÀ>˜>ÆÊvÕÊ«œˆÊÀˆVœÃÌÀՈÌ>Ê`>Ê՘Ê>˜>V>«ÀiÃi i“ˆ}À>̜ÊVœ˜ÊˆÊÀˆV>Û>̜Ê`ˆÊ՘>Êۈ˜VˆÌ>Ê> œÌ̜°Ê"}}ˆ]ʜÌÀiÊ>iÊVÀœVˆÊˆ˜VˆÃi]Ê>Ê«Àœ‡ Ìi∜˜iÊ`>iÊ«ˆiÌÀiÊV½mÊ՘>ÊÀœLÕÃÌ>ÊÀiÌi `½>VVˆ>ˆœÊV iʈ“LÀˆ}ˆ>ÊÌÕÌ̜ʈÊÛiÀÃ>˜Ìi `i>ʓœ˜Ì>}˜>°
ÊÌiÀ“ˆ˜iÊ`i>Ê-V>>Êi˜ˆVˆ>]ÊÌ>˜ÌˆÊˆÕÃÌÀˆ «iÀܘ>}}ˆÊ`iÊ«>ÃÃ>̜ÊÌÀœÛ>Û>˜œÊ>`Ê
˜>‡ V>«ÀˆÊ՘ʓœ˜`œÊˆ`i>iÊ`œÛiÊÌiÀ“ˆ˜>Àiʜ “i}ˆœÊÀˆVœ“ˆ˜Vˆ>Àiʏ>Ê«Àœ«Àˆ>ÊۈÌ>°Ê*iÀÊ}ˆ >LˆÌ>˜ÌˆÊ`iÊ«œÃ̜ʈ˜ÛiVi]ÊV½iÀ>˜œÊˆÊVœ˜‡ vœÀ̜Ê`iˆÊ«Àœ«ÀˆÊV>ÀˆÊiʈÊÀˆ«œÃœÊ˜iiʏœÀœ V>ÃiÊ `œ«œÊ ՘>Ê }ˆœÀ˜>Ì>Ê `ˆÊ v>̈V>°Ê "}}ˆ] Õ˜}œÊˆÊ}À>`ˆ˜ˆÊ`ˆÊ«ˆiÌÀ>Ê«Õ¢ÊV>«ˆÌ>ÀiÊ`ˆÊˆ˜‡ Vœ˜ÌÀ>ÀiÊ `iˆÊ }ˆœÛ>˜ˆÃȓˆÊ V i]Ê â>ˆ˜œÊ ˆ˜ ë>>]ÊÈÊVˆ“i˜Ì>˜œÊ˜i>ÊÃ>ˆÌ>Ê̜À˜>˜`œÊ> V>Ã>Ê `>Ê ÃV՜>ÆÊ ˆ˜Ê L>ÀL>Ê >>Ê “œ`iÀ˜> ÃÌÀ>`>ÊiÊ>}ˆÊÃVœœÌiÀ]ʵÕiÃ̈ÊÀ>}>ââˆÊÀ>««Ài‡ Ãi˜Ì>˜œÊ՘ÊvˆœÊÀœÃÜÊVœ˜ÊˆÊ«>ÃÃ>̜]ÊiÊÃi“‡ LÀ>˜œÊˆ˜Vœ˜Ã>«iۜ“i˜ÌiÊÀˆVœÀ`>ÀVˆÊV i per aspera ad astra]Ê>ÌÌÀ>ÛiÀÜʏiÊ`ˆvvˆVœÌD ÈÊÀ>}}ˆÕ˜}œ˜œÊiÊ«ˆÙÊ>ÌiÊÛiÌÌi°Ê■

is Villa San Michele. In the last decades of the 18th young girls carrying wooden boxes full of tiles on the chapel that was partly destroyed by a century when Axel Munthe arrived here, there their heads. If you had taken a peek, you would landslide; it was then rebuilt by an Anacaprese were only the ruins of a chapel dedicated to Saint have seen here a hand, there an animal head, emigrant and paid for with his lottery win. Today, Michael. For Munthe it was love at first sight, there a flower painted on the tiles. They were the apart from the carved crosses, there is a sturdy immediately forgetting the effort of the climb, and 2,500 riggiole (Neapolitan majolica tiles) for the steel net that keeps the whole side of the after a few years, he built his home here which flooring of the Monumental Church of San Michele, mountain in check. today is a famous museum. And it is with a relaxing carried up there in small groups from Marina At the end of the Phoenician Steps, many visit to the Villa San Michele gardens that the Grande, where they had been unloaded after illustrious celebrities of the past found in Anacapri climb up the Phoenician Steps ends and the having been fired in the Naples ovens. an ideal world where they could live out their lives exploration of Anacapri begins. But Phoenician Steps also tell other stories. or better still make a fresh start. The inhabitants, For the ancient inhabitants of Anacapri it was Crosses carved in the rock can be seen on the on the other hand, found the comfort of their certainly not so much an idyllic stroll as a very hard climb up. It was the wish of the bishops of Capri loved ones and rest in their houses after a hard trek that had to be made every day. It was mainly in the 17th century to have them carved as day’s work. Today, along the stone steps, you the women who day after day climbed up and protection against “evil spirits”, and also against meet youngsters with schoolbags on their backs down the hundreds of steps carrying water, food, the falling rocks, a far from rare occurrence in facing the climb on their way home from school; wood and even building material on their heads those parts. In the 19th century municipal death in spite of a modern road and scooters, these kids while the men were busy working in the fields or registers, there is the sad story of a young girl hit represent a common thread with the past, and on boats as fishermen, seamen and caulkers. If by a falling rock. She died in the chapel of Saint seem to unknowingly remind us that, as the Latins you had found yourself on the Phoenician Steps in Anthony where she had been taken by her friends put it, per aspera ad astra, a rough road leads to 1719 you would have bumped into a procession of who tried to save her. Years later, it was precisely the stars. ■

84 [Dentro l’isola] Ho male di luce, ho male di te, Capri solare... Light pains me; you pain me, luminous Capri...

L’alba è forse il momento più amato e cantato nelle poesie di Ada Negri.

Sunrise is perhaps Ada Negri’s most loved and most sung moment. CANTI D’AMORE E DI NATURA Le nuvole che il libeccio fa correre nell’azzurro del cielo, i giardini fioriti, l’alba color ametista, la scalinata di Torre Saracena, il respiro del mare, la vertigine, la luna, le distese di ginestre sui in fianchi del Castiglione, la roccia del Solaro. C’è tutto di Capri ne I canti dell’isola (La Conchiglia L’isola versi Ed.), la raccolta di poesie scritte tra l’aprile e il luglio del 1923 da Ada Negri, la Poesie che parlano di albe e di tramonti, prima donna ad essere ammessa all’Accademia d’Italia. Sono canti d’amore e di fiori, colori e profumi. E portano la firma di Ada Negri di natura dove la parola segue il ritmo del cuore e l’isola è come «una dorata nuvola emersa dal fiato del mare». Leggerli è tutta un’esplosione di luci e colori, di profumi e palpiti. Di emozioni che fanno bene al cuore. di Daniela Liguori foto di Raffaele Lello Mastroianni SONGS OF LOVE AND NATURE The libeccio making the clouds course through the blue sky, the gardens in bloom, the amethyst dawn, the Torre Saracena steps, the breath of the sea, the light- œ«À>˜˜œ“ˆ˜>Ì>Ê>ˆÊÃ՜ˆÊiÜÀ`ˆÊiÌÌiÀ>ÀˆÊ>ʺÛiÀ}ˆ˜iÊÀœÃÃ>»Ê«iÀÊ>ÛiÀʈ˜Vi˜ÌÀ>̜ʏ>ÊÃÕ>Ê«Àœ‡ headedness, the moon, the stretch of gorse along the sides of the Castiglione, the `Õ∜˜iÊ«œïV>ÊÃÕÊÌi“ˆÊiʵÕiÃ̈œ˜ˆÊÜVˆ>ˆÊiÊ`ˆÛi˜ÕÌ>Ê«œˆÊViiLÀiÊVœ“iʺ«œiÌiÃÃ>Ê`½Ì>ˆ>» Solaro rock. You find all of Capri in Songs of the Island (Italica Press, 2011) – Ada ˆ˜ÊµÕ>˜ÌœÊ՘ˆV>Ê`œ˜˜>Ê>““iÃÃ>Ê>>Ê,i>iÊ
VV>`i“ˆ>Ê`½Ì>ˆ>]Ê
`>Ê i}ÀˆÊ>ÀÀˆÛ>Ê>Ê >«Àˆ Negri’s collection of poems written between April and July 1923. In these songs La scrittrice in un ritratto of love by the first woman to be admitted to the Academy of Italy, words follow di Enrico Sacchetti. S˜i>Ê«Àˆ“>ÛiÀ>Ê`iÊ£™ÓΰÊ>ÊxÎÊ>˜˜ˆÊiÊ`œœÀœÃˆÊiÛi˜ÌˆÊ >˜˜œÊ`>Ê«œVœÊÃi}˜>̜ʏ>ÊÃÕ>ÊۈÌ>\ʈÊ`ˆ‡ the rhythm of the heart and the island is like “a golden cloud emerging from the breath of the sea”. The poet in a portrait ۜÀ∜Ê`>ʈœÛ>˜˜ˆÊ>À>˜`ˆ]ʏ>Ê̜À“i˜Ì>Ì>ÊÃ̜Àˆ>Ê`½>“œÀiÊ`ˆÊVՈÊÃVÀˆÛiʘiÊLibro di Mara, iʏ> To read these poems is to experience an explosion of light and colours, by Enrico Sacchetti. “œÀÌiÊ`i>ʓ>`Ài°Ê½ˆÃœ>ʏ½>VVœ}ˆiÊVœ˜ÊÌÕÌÌ>ʏ>ÊÃÕ>ÊLiiââ>ÊiÊÃi`ÕViʈÊÃ՜ʺV՜ÀiÊ`½iÛ>Ã>»ÊVœ˜ perfumes and heart beats. Feelings that are good for the soul.

½ˆÀÀÕi˜â>ÊVœ˜ÊVՈʺˆÊˆLiVVˆœÊÌÀ>ÃVˆ˜>ʏiʘÕLˆÊ«iÀʈÊV>«iˆ»Êiʏ>ʏi}}iÀiââ>ÊVœ˜ÊVՈÊ՘Ê՘ˆVœ ▼

86 87 [Dentro l’isola]

>ââÕÀÀœÊ`ˆÊ“>ÀiÊiÊ`ˆÊVˆiœÊv>ÊۈLÀ>Àiʈ˜Ãˆi“i THE ISLAND IN VERSE º½œ˜`iÊiʏiÊÃÌii»°
Ê >«ÀˆÊˆ˜Vœ˜ÌÀ>Ê `܈˜Ê iÀˆœ]Ê>œÀ>ÊȘ‡ Poems that speak of sunrises and sunsets, flowers, colours and `>VœÊ`i½ˆÃœ>]Ê>ÀV ˆÌiÌ̜ÊiÊÃVÀˆÌ̜ÀiʘœÌœÊ«iÀ perfumes in the words of Ada Negri ˆÊÃ՜ˆÊÃ>}}ˆÊÃՏ>ÊÌÕÌi>Ê`iÊ«>iÃ>}}ˆœÊV i] œÌÀiÊ>`Ê>VVœ}ˆiÀ>ÊVœ˜Ê՘ÊÌÀˆ«Õ`ˆœÊ`ˆÊvˆœÀˆ by Daniela Liguori photos by Raffaele Lello Mastroianni VœœÀÊ«œÀ«œÀ>ÊÃՏ>ÊÜ}ˆ>Ê`i½ œÌiÊ+Ոȇ Ã>˜>]ʏ>ʈ˜ÛˆÌ>Ê>ÊÜ}}ˆœÀ˜>ÀiÊ«ÀiÃÜʏ>ÊÃÕ>Êۈ> amed “the red virgin” for her focus on ºÊ,œÃ>ˆœ»Ê>`Ê
˜>V>«Àˆ]Ê՘ÊVœ“«iÃÜÊ`ˆ social problems during the early days of V>ÃiÊVœi}>ÌiÊÌÀ>ʏœÀœÊ`>Ê«iÀ}œiÊiÊÀ>“«ˆ‡ Nher literary career, Ada Negri was later known as “Italy’s poetess” for being the only V>˜Ìˆ]Êۈ̈}˜ˆÊiÊÀœÃï°Ê+Õ>ÊiÊ`ˆ>ʈÊ˜œ“i] woman admitted to the Royal Academy of Italy. Ada ˆ}˜œÀœÊÌ>˜ÌˆÊˆ˜ÌœÀ˜œÊiÊÃLœVVˆ>˜ÊÀœÃïÊV>˜‡ Negri arrived in Capri in the spring of 1923. She `ˆ`ˆÊiÊ}ˆ>ˆÆʓ>ÊvœÀÃiÊmʈÊ«ÕÀ«ÕÀiœ]ÊV iʈ was fifty-three at the time and carried deep scars in her heart due to her divorce from Giovanni “ÕÀœÊ>ʏiÛ>˜Ìiʈ˜} ˆÀ>˜`>ÆÊiÊ«ÕÀʘi½ˆ˜‡ Garlandi, to her tormented love affair described in ÛiÀ˜œÊ >Ê«œÌi˜â>Ê`ˆÊvÀœ˜`iÊiÊ`ˆÊvˆœÀˆ‚]ÊÃVÀˆÛi The Book of Mara, and to her mother’s death. The island welcomed her with all its beauty and ˜iÊIl Rosaio°Ê ÊÃiÊ>>Êۈ>Ê`i`ˆV iÀDÊ>˜V i seduced her “fugitive heart” with the ½ˆ˜Vˆ«ˆÌÊ`iÊIl giardiniere delle rose]ʏ½>vvˆ˜ˆÌD impetuousness with which “the libeccio drags clouds by their hair” and the lightness with which V iÊ`ÕÀ>˜ÌiʈÊÜ}}ˆœÀ˜œÊV>«ÀiÃiʏ>ʏi}>Ê> the blue sea and sky make the “waves and stars” iÀˆœÊÃ>ÀDÊ`>ʏiˆÊÀˆVœÀ`>Ì>ÊVœ“iÊ՘>ʺVœ“Õ‡ vibrate in unison. In Capri she met Edwin Cerio, mayor of the island, architect and writer well known ˜ˆœ˜iÊ܏>Ài»ÊۈÃÃÕÌ>ʺµÕ>V iÊ}ˆœÀ˜œÊ`i> for his papers on landscape protection. After ۈÌ>»Êiʏ>Ê«ÀiÃi˜â>Ê`ˆÊÕˆÊmÊ>`œ“LÀ>Ì>ʈ˜Ê>‡ greeting her with a spectacular display of purple flowers at the entrance to the Hotel Quisisana, he V՘iʏˆÀˆV iÊÌÀ>ÊVՈÊL’ u o m o e l a c a s a\ʁ>ÊVœœ‡ also invited her to stay at his villa “Il Rosaio” (The µÕˆœÊVœ˜ÊÌÀiÊ܏ˆÌÕ`ˆ˜ˆ]ʏ½>VµÕ>]ʏ>ÊÌiÀÀ>Êiʈ Rosebush) at Anacapri, a complex of houses Ûi˜Ìœ]ÊÌÕÊۈۈ]Ê1œ“œÊ`i½܏>\ÊV iʈÊ“œ˜`œ connected to each other by pergolas and climbing plants, vines and rose gardens. “Which rosebush it >ˆÊ«iÀVœÀÜ]ʓ>ʵՈʏiÊÀ>`ˆVˆÊ>vvœ˜`ˆ‚° is named after I do not know, many white and ˜V>˜Ì>Ì>Ê`>½iÀœ“«iÀiÊ`ˆÊVœœÀˆÊiÊ«ÀœvՓˆ yellow rosebushes flower nearby; but maybe it’s the purple one that festoons its eastern wall and that `iÊ“>ÀiÊ`ˆÊ1ˆÃÃiÊiÊ`iˆÊ ˆVœ«ˆ]Ê`>ˆÊvˆœÀˆÊV i even in winter is laden with leaves and flowers” she ºÃ}œÀ}>˜œ»Ê`>}ˆÊë>VV ˆÊ`i>ÊÀœVVˆ>Ê«iÀʏœ writes in Rosaio. And although she even dedicates the opening lines of Il giardiniere delle rose to the ºÃV iÀâœÊ`iˆÊÛi˜Ìˆ»]ʏ>Ê«œiÌiÃÃ>ÊۈÛiÊÃi˜ÃÕ>‡ villa, remembering the affinity she had with Cerio “i˜ÌiʏiÊ>LiÊVœœÀÊ`½>“ïÃÌ>]ʈÊVˆiˆÊ`ˆÊ«>‡ during her stay in Capri as a “sunny communion”, experienced for “a few days in life”, his presence ˆ`œÊ>À}i˜Ìœ]ʈʫ>«>ÛiÀˆÊV iʺvÀ>ʏ½iÀLiÊ`>˜ occasionally appears somewhat obscured, as in her Ã>˜}Õi»°Ê ʈÊÀՓœÀˆ\ʈÊÛi˜ÌˆÊV iÊÃV՜̜˜œ poems of The Man and the House: “conversing with three solitudes, water, earth and wind, you live Man >LiÀˆÊiÊvˆœÀˆ]ʈÊvÀ>˜}iÀÈÊ`iˆÊÀi“ˆÊiʈÊvÀÕÃVˆœ of the Island: you have travelled the world but your `iiÊÀïÊ`iˆÊ«iÃV>̜Àˆ]ʈÊÀœ˜âˆœÊ`iˆÊÌi>ˆÊi roots are here”. Enchanted by the explosion of iÊ«Ài} ˆiÀiÊÀiVˆÌ>ÌiÊ`>iÊ`œ˜˜i° colours and perfumes of the sea of Ulysses and the Cyclops and by the flowers bursting out from the ˜ÛˆÌ>Ì>Ê`>Ê iÀˆœÊ>ÊÌi˜iÀiÊ՘Ê`ˆÃVœÀÜʈ˜ÊœV‡ cracks in the rocks carried there by “the wind’s La scrittrice si lascerà tricks”, the poet sensually experienced the travolgere dalla bellezza V>Ȝ˜iÊ `i½ˆ˜>Õ}ÕÀ>∜˜iÊ `iÊ º ˆÀVœœÊ `ˆ ▼ di Capri con l’irruenza con cui “il libeccio ՏÌÕÀ>ÊiÊ`½>ÀÌiʈ˜Ê >«Àˆ»Ê
`>Ê i}ÀˆÊVœ˜viÇ trascina le nubi per i capelli”. ÃiÀDÊÌÕÌÌ>ۈ>Ê`ˆÊiÃÃiÀiÊÌÕÀL>Ì>Ê`>>ʺÀˆÛi>‡ Le rose e i papaveri che l’isola regala The poet allows herself ∜˜iÊ `ˆÊ >«Àˆ»\Ê -œi]Ê Ûi˜Ìœ]Ê «ÀœvՓœ] sono protagonisti in numerose to be overwhelmed VœœÀiÊiʈÊ“ˆÃÌiÀˆœÃœÊˆ˜vÕÃÜ]ʏ½ii“i˜ÌœÊˆ“‡ poesie di Ada Negri. by the beauty of Capri with the force with which «œ˜`iÀ>LˆiÊ`i>Ê«œiÈ>ÊV iÊi“>˜>Ê`>ʵÕiÃÌ> The island’s roses “the libeccio drags the and poppies appear

clouds by their hair”. ÌiÀÀ>Ê`ˆÊ“ˆÌˆ]ʓˆÊ >˜˜œÊ«ÀœÛœV>̜Ê՘œ ▼ in many of Ada Negri’s poems.

89 [Dentro l’isola]

ÃÌ>̜Ê`½ˆ˜V>˜Ì>“i˜Ìœ]Êvœ˜ÌiÊ>ÊÌi“«œÊÃÌiÃÜ Ûi˜Ì>˜œÊ½œVV ˆœÊVœÊµÕ>iÊi>Ê}Õ>À`>ʏ½ˆÃœ> ̈“œÀiÊV iʏ½ˆÃœ>ʁë>ÀˆÀiÊ«œÌÀiLLi]ÊVœÃŒ]Ê>‡ `ˆÊœÃVÕÀ>ÊÜvviÀi˜â>]Ê`ˆÊVÀÕ`iiÊ`œœÀiÊiÊ`ˆÊˆ˜‡ ÃÌiÃÃ>Ê iÊ ˆÊ “>Ài°Ê 1˜Ê “>ÀiÊ V iÊ º>LLÀ>VVˆ>» ½ˆ“«ÀœÛۈ܂ÊiÊV i]ÊÜÌ̜ʈÊ«ˆi`i]ÊۈÊÈ>ʁ˜œ˜ ̈“œÊ̜À“i˜Ìœ°Ê*Àˆ“>Ê`ˆÊ̜VV>ÀiʈÊ܏iÊ`ˆ >«ÀˆÊVœ“iÊ՘ʺ“>}˜ˆvˆVœÊ>“>˜Ìi»ÊiÊ>ÊVœ˜‡ ÌiÀÀ>]ʘœ˜Ê«ˆiÌÀ>]ʓ>Ê>iÀi>ÊÜÃÌ>˜â>Ê`ˆÊ˜ÕLi‚Æ >«Àˆ]ʘœ˜ÊÃ>«iۜÊV iʏ>ÊLiiââ>Ê«œÌiÃÃiÊvi‡ Ìi“«œÊ>ʺˆ“«Àˆ}ˆœ˜>»]ʘiʺ܏V>»Ê>Ê«ii]ʺ> `ˆÊµÕˆÊˆÊ«Ài˜`iÀÊVœÃVˆi˜â>Ê`i>ʏœ˜Ì>˜>˜â> ÀˆÀiÊ>ÊÌ>Ê«Õ˜Ìœ‚°Ê-iʺ-œ>Àˆ>»ÊmʈÊ˜œ“iÊV iʏ> ۜÌiʏiÊÀˆ}>ʏiÊÀi˜ˆÊ`ˆÊÃ>˜}Õi»°Ê ʺ½ˆÃœ>ʈ˜ÌiÀ> ÌÀ>ÊVˆiœÊiÊÌiÀÀ>\ʁÀœÃiÊiÊÃÌiiÊÈÊ}Õ>À`>˜œ] i}ÀˆÊ`>ÀDÊ>Ê >«Àˆ]ʈÊ܏iÊV>«ÀiÃiÊmÊ«iÀʏiˆÊ«œ‡ â>“«ˆ>Ê`ˆÊÀœÃܻʵÕ>ÈÊvœÃÃiʺviÀˆÌ>Ê`ˆÊVœ‡ vˆÃÃi]ÊVœ˜ÊœVV ˆÊˆ““i˜Ãˆ‚ÊiʁV½mÊVœÃŒÊ«œVœÊvÀ> Ìi˜ÌiÊL>}ˆœÀiÊV iʏ>ÃVˆ>ÊvˆœÀˆÀiʏiÊÀœÃiÊ`½ˆ˜‡ Ìiœ»°Ê i>Ê ÀœÌÌ>Ê
ââÕÀÀ>Ê ÃVÀˆÛiÊ V iÊ m œÀœ\Ê՘ʫœ½Ê`½>Àˆ>\Ê܏œÊ՘ʫœ½Ê`½>Àˆ>ÆÊiʘœ˜ ÛiÀ˜œÊiÊ`ˆÛi˜ˆÀiʺvœˆ»Ê}ˆÊœVV ˆ]Êv>ÊۈLÀ>Àiʈ ºV>À˜iÊ`ˆÊÕVi°°°ÊÃV>Û>Ì>Ê`>>Ê«>ÃȜ˜iÊ`i «œÃܘÊL>Vˆ>ÀȂÆÊ`ˆÊµÕˆÊ½ˆ˜ÛœV>∜˜iÊ>½ˆÃœ> V՜ÀiʘiÊÃ՜ʺV>ۜÊ`ˆÊÀœVVˆ>»ÊiÊ«ÀœÛœV>ʺ“>i “>Ài»°Ê/Àœ««œÊvœÀÌiʏiÊ>««>Àiʈ“«ÀœÛۈÃ>‡ «iÀV jʏiÊVœ˜Vi`>ʺ>ʓœÀÌiÊ>ââÕÀÀ>»ÊœÊ>ʏ>ÃVˆ `ˆÊÕVi»°Ê-Տ½ˆÃœ>ʏ>ÊÃVÀˆÌÌÀˆViÊÈÊÃi˜ÌiÊiëœÃÌ> “i˜ÌiÊ>˜V iʈÊÛi˜ÌœÆʁˆ˜VˆÃœÊ`ˆÊVˆV>ÌÀˆVˆ]ÊÃ>‡ ̜À˜>ÀiÊ>Ê«>iÃiʓ>ÌiÀ˜œ°Ê >>ʘ>ÌÕÀ>Ê«Ài«œÌi˜ÌiÊiÊ`ÕÀ>Ê`ˆÊ՘>ʺÌiÀÀ> ÌÕÀœÊ`½œ`ˆœ]ÊvœÀÃiÊ`½>“œÀiʈÊ œ˜ÌiÊ/ˆLiÀˆœ‚°
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`>Ê i}ÀˆÊ˜œ˜Ê«Õ¢ÊV iÊÛi`iÀi iʈÊÀˆVœÀ`ˆÊV iÊ>vvˆœÀ>˜œÊ˜i>ÊÃÕ>ʓi˜ÌiÊ`ˆ‡ ÌÀœ««œÊ`œViÊiÃÃiÀÊۈ˜Ì>»Êiʺ>À`iÀi»°Ê ˆÊµÕˆÊˆ ½"ÀÃ>ʓ>}}ˆœÀiʺV>`ÕÌ>ʘiÊ“>Ài»° ■

“Fiori, soavi fiori, e tanti siete, e diversi, e sì belli ch’è vano chiamarvi per nome” I was not aware that beauty could hurt so much”. carved with scars, replete with hate or maybe scrive Ada Negri in una sua poesia. Ada Negri names Capri “Solaria”, for its sun is that love”. Solaria revealed its hidden nature, Capri is powerful blaze that makes roses to bloom in winter, like a poisonous Euphorbia, a plant of many colours “Flowers, sweet flowers, you are many, “maddening” the eyes and making her heart vibrate and “perfect flowers” but “swollen with poison”, a and diverse, and so beautiful it is useless in the island’s “rock cave” with its painful light. On sublime mirage where to abandon oneself is both to call you by name” writes Ada Negri in one of her poems. the island the poet felt exposed to the powerful “too sweet a surrender” and “a burning”. From here harsh nature of a “land without pity” that “afflicts” unfolded her fear that the island “could disappear, and “torments”, “steals yourself from yourself, suddenly” and that, under her feet there was “not amethyst coloured sunrises, the pale silver skies empties your memory, then with a sunny smile, earth, not rock, but ethereal substance of clouds”; and the poppies that “bleed in the grass”. And the hurls you into the sea, worn out debris”. Capri’s she became aware of the distance between sky sounds: the winds shaking trees and flowers, the beauty was turmoil and suffering, restless pleasure and earth: “roses and stars look at each other, crashing of oars, the whispering of fishermen’s and light-headedness. The shadows and memories staring, with immense eyes” and “there is so little nets, the humming of looms and of women’s that surfaced in her mind became the eyes with between them: a little air: only a little air; and they prayers. Although Cerio invited her to make a which she observed the island itself and the sea. A cannot kiss each other”; she then voiced her plea speech at the inauguration of the “Capri Art and sea that “embraces” Capri like a “magnificent to the island to grant her “a blue death” or a return Culture Society”, Ada Negri confessed that she was lover” and at the same time “imprisons” the island, to her maternal country. By July the spell was unsettled by the “revelation of Capri”: “Sun, wind, “cutting through” its skin “at times scoring its broken, the holiday on the island came to an end perfume, colour and the mysterious attraction, the kidneys with blood”. And “the whole island gushes and melancholy “tasting of wet earth” interrupted imponderable element of poetry that springs from red” as if it were “stabbed with a knife”. About the the exhilaration, no longer urged on “between the this land of myths have cast a spell on me which is Blue Grotto Ada writes that it was “flesh of light” waves and the stars” – “there was joy and torment also source of dark suffering, cruel pain and “dug out by the passion of the sea”. Even the wind in the coming and going of the waves” – Ada Negri intimate torment. Before touching the sun of Capri, suddenly seemed too strong to her; “Mount Tiberio can but see the Great Bear “fallen into the sea”. ■

90 [Curiosità]

>«ÀˆÊmÊVœ“iÊ՘>Ê`ˆÛˆ˜ˆÌDÊÃi˜ÃÕ>iÊiÊVÀÕ`ii]ÊV>“>iœ˜ÌˆV>Êiʈ˜ÌÀˆ}>˜Ìi]ÊV iÊVœ˜Ê> BETWEEN ENCHANTMENT ÃÕ>ʈ““>}ˆ˜ˆvˆV>Ê>V ˆ“ˆ>Ê`œ˜>Ê>}ˆÊˆ˜˜>“œÀ>̈Ê՘>ÊvœÀâ>ÊۈÌ>iÊiʈÀˆ`iÃVi˜Ìi]ʏÕVi Tra incanto e disincanto AND DISENCHANTMENT V>œÌˆV>ʘiÊLՈœÊ`i>ÊۈÌ>°Ê Ê>Ê >«Àˆ]Êvˆ˜Ê`>Ê“œ˜`œÊ}ÀiVœ]ʵÕiÃÌ>ʓˆÃÌiÀˆœÃ>Êi˜iÀ}ˆ> CVœÃ“ˆV>Ê >ÊÀiÜÊ՜“ˆ˜ˆÊiÊ`œ˜˜i]Ê«ÀœÌ>}œ˜ˆÃ̈]ʘiÊ«ˆÙʈ˜VÀi`ˆLˆiÊÃVi˜>ÀˆœÊ`i>ʘ>ÌÕÀ>]Ê`ˆ >Ê/iÀÀ>Ê`iiÊ-ˆÀi˜iÊmÊ՘½ˆÃœ>Ê`i½>˜ˆ“>ÊV iÊÈÊiÃÌi˜`iÊ`>iÊÛiÀ`ˆÊV>“«>}˜i >“œÀˆÊˆLiÀˆÊiÊÜ}˜>˜Ìˆ° `ˆÊՏˆÛˆÊ`ˆÊ->˜Ì½
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˜Ìœ˜ˆœÊ -«>`>ÀœÊ È Senza confini, etichette o identità. Un fantastico Illustrazioni di Fabio Finocchioli >“>Àœ˜œÊˆ˜Êȏi˜âˆœ]ʘi>Ê«Àœvœ˜`ˆÌD mosaico di passione chiamato Capri `ˆÊ՘œÊÃ}Õ>À`œ]Ê>ÃVœÌ>˜`œÊˆÊV>˜ÌœÊ`iˆÊ}>LLˆ>˜ˆ iʈÊÀՓœÀiÊ`iÊ“>ÀiÊV iÊýˆ˜vÀ>˜}iÊÃÕÊ œ˜>Vœ˜i°

SO MANY LOVES Siren Land is an island of the soul that stretches out from the Free, dreamy, enchanted. Without borders, labels or identities. green olive-grove landscape of A fantastic mosaic of passion called Capri Sant’Agata and Monte San Costanzo, to the legendary coves of Crapolla and the small Galli islands to the dizzy blue of the Monte Solaro and Aeaea for eight years, enraptured by the apri resembles a sensual, cruel deity, chameleon-like and intriguing, that with imaginative rocks where sky and sea meet. Castaways on beauty of the nymph Calypso and by the alchemy bestows on lovers a vital and opalescent strength, a chaotic light in the darkness of the island are restless, solitary travellers, enchanter Circe, he was the only one to resist Clife. Since ancient Greek times Capri’s mysterious cosmic energy has made men and women forever on the verge between enchantment and the song of the Sirens. The three Sirens, key players in the most incredible scenario of nature and free and dreamy love. disenchantment. Siren love has found in Parthenope tutelary deity of Naples, Leucosia In this way the island becomes an atopos, a fantastic place, where the eternal game of seduction and Norman Douglas, desecrating satyr of Capri white goddess of the Amalfi coast and Ligeia of a life of love can be portrayed without the suffocating restrictions of a middle-class, puritan world. literature, the most dreamlike poet. His sensual who killed herself because of shame, will live on As the American psychologist James Hillman remembers, in no other place have the followers of song grants oblivion, a chance to cancel past for eternity in the sinuous and magnetic beauty Aphrodite, the deity born from the foam of the sea waves, searched for and longed for a beauty that and future and to the elusive beauty of the of nature. Siren love needs no words. Monika violates every ethical order and disregards earthly justice. Lovers in Capri pursue the sublime, present. But siren love with its deafening silence Mann and the fisherman Antonio Spadaro loved manifestation of Venus’ justice, without fear, searching for that utopian happiness that for eternity swallows up the soul, it nullifies, in the endless each other in silence, in the intensity of a glance, annuls time. These fragments of Capri are all pieces of a fantastic insular mosaic of the soul where pursuit of the loved one. listening to the song of the seagulls and the the onerous levity of love is played out. Although Ulysses stayed on the islands of Ogygia sound of the sea crashing onto Monacone.

92 93 [Curiosità]

“>ÀiÊ «>˜iÀœÌˆV>“i˜ÌiÊ Û՜Ê `ˆÀiÊ V>«ˆÀiÊ V i reminds us that Tiberius followed a strict Il segreto delle modelle vegetarian diet and used to fire up his senile ½>“œÀiÊÌÀ>Ê}ˆÊiÃÃiÀˆÊՓ>˜ˆÊ˜œ˜Ê >ÊVœ˜vˆ˜ˆ]Êï‡ libido with this Capri herb that still grows V iÌÌiʜʈ`i˜ÌˆÌD°Ê
Ê >«ÀˆÊµÕ>Ãˆ>ÈÊÌ>LÙʘiÊVœÀÜ among the ruins of the Villa. Many of the Capri Rosina, Carmela, Graziella, Annina: sono tante le LOVE AND FOOD loves were blessed by a combination of the modelle capresi e anacapresi che con i loro profili `iÊÌi“«œÊmÊÃÌ>̜ÊÌÀ>ۜÌœÊ`>ˆÊÌ>˜ÌˆÃȓˆÊ`iÀ>}ˆ>̈Ê`i> Amore e cucina island’s food and wine. simili alle divinità greche affascinarono e fecero In his poems, Pablo Neruda compares his innamorare famosi pittori, come Benjamin Vautier e ۈÌ>]ÊV iʵՈʫœÌiÛ>˜œÊۈÛiÀiʏ>Ê«Àœ«Àˆ>ÊÃiÃÃÕ>ˆÌDÊÃi˜â> Matilde’s sinuous body and the perfume of her John Sargent. Alla fine dell’Ottocento la modella «>ÕÀ>Ê`ˆÊiÃÃiÀiÊ} iÌ̈ââ>̈ÊiÊ}ˆÕ`ˆ‡ ˜ÊœÀˆ}ˆ˜iÊvÕʏ>ʺ«ÕÀV ˆ>VV i>»]ÊiÀL>ʓˆÀ>VœœÃ>Ê>ÊÌi“«œÊ`ˆÊ/ˆLiÀˆœ]Ê> diventò un vero e proprio mestiere; furono numerose skin to the sweet reassuring roundness of ripe le famiglie capresi meno abbienti che, con il loro aiuto, V>̈°Ê>ÊȘ`Àœ“iÊ`ˆÊ/ˆLiÀˆœ]ʈ“‡ `>ÀiÊۈÌ>ˆÌDÊ>ˆÊÃi˜ÃˆÊ>ÃÜ«ˆÌˆ°Ê+ÕiÃÌ>ÊÀÕVœ>ÊÃiÛ>̈V>ÊV iʘi>ÊÃÕ>Êï“œ‡ tomatoes and the primitive essence of the basil riuscirono a tirare avanti. Lo scrittore austriaco and the Homeric garlic. It is also thanks to the Wihlem Ritter von Wymental, in arte Wyl, sbarcando «iÀ>̜ÀiÊ V iÊ ˆÀÀi>ˆÃ̈V>“i˜Ìi œ}ˆ>ÊVi>ʓ>ˆâˆœÃ>“i˜ÌiÊ՘ÊÀˆviÀˆ“i˜ÌœÊ>½œÀ}>˜œÊÃiÃÃÕ>iÊvi““ˆ˜ˆi cuisine of his cook Cataldiello, believed to be the THE MODELS’ SECRET sull’isola nel 1875 scoprì un verità non certo onorevole ۈi˜iʈ˜`ˆV>̜ÊÀiœÊ`ˆÊœÀ}ˆ>Ã̈V i ­ˆ˜Ê}ÀiVœÊÈ}˜ˆvˆV>ʺ«ˆVVœœÊ>˜ÌÀœÊ`ˆÊv՜Vœ»®ÊvÕÊVœÌˆÛ>Ì>Ê«iÀʏ>Ê«Àˆ“>ÊۜÌ> true inventor of the almond cake, that Maksim per le modelle capresi. Egli racconta che dopo che Lord Gor’kij was able to placate his Maria Andreeva’s Goosbery aveva sposato una poverissima ciucciara e ÌÕÀ«ˆÌÕ`ˆ˜ˆ]ÊVÀi>ʈÊ“ˆÌœÊ`ˆÊ՘½ˆÃœ> >Ê6ˆ>ʜۈÃÊ`>Ê-iÀ«Õœ]Ê>}Àœ˜œ“œÊ`i½ˆ“«iÀ>̜Ài]ʈ˜ÊÃiÀÀiʓœLˆˆÊ“œ˜‡ jealousy. At the end of his life, Norman Douglas, le aveva regalato un castello in Inghilterra, tutte le `œÛiʜ}˜ˆÊv>˜Ì>È>ÊÃiÃÃÕ>i]ʓ>‡ Ì>ÌiÊÃÕÊÀ՜Ìi°Ê `܈˜Ê iÀˆœÊVˆÊÀˆVœÀ`>ÊV iÊ/ˆLiÀˆœÊiÀ>ÊÀˆ}œÀœÃ>“i˜ÌiÊÛi‡ also on the insistence of Graham Greene who altre modelle, verdi d’invidia, idearono un sottile e was living in Anacapri at Villa Il Rosaio, diabolico stratagemma. Ogni fanciulla che si era fatta ÃV ˆiÊiÊvi““ˆ˜ˆi]Ê`ˆÛˆi˜iÊÀi‡ }iÌ>Àˆ>˜œÊiÊÀˆ˜Ûˆ}œÀˆÛ>ʏ>ÊÃÕ>ÊÃi˜ˆiʏˆLˆ`œÊVœ˜ÊµÕiÃÌ>ÊÀÕVœ>ÊV>«ÀiÃiÊV i collected with much irony and self- disonorare da un pittore straniero, che per ovvie irony in the book Venus in the ragioni non poteva sposarla, lo trascinava con tanto >ÌD°Ê *iÀvˆ˜œÊ ˆÊ `ˆÛˆ˜œ >˜VœÀ>ÊVÀiÃViÊÃiÛ>̈V>ʘiˆÊÀÕ`iÀˆÊ`i>Ê6ˆ>°Ê/>˜ÌˆÊ>“œÀˆÊV>«ÀiÈÊܘœÊ˜>̈ Kitchen: a manual of di testimoni davanti ad un impiegato comunale >ÀV iÃiÊ iÊ ->`iÊ V>`i >˜V iÊ}À>âˆiÊ>>ÊVœ“«ˆVˆÌDÊ`iÊVˆLœÊiÊ`iÊۈ˜œÊˆÃœ>˜œ° complice e l’obbligava a sottoscrivere, vita natural erotic cooking all the durante, una cifra concordata come riparazione per la ÃÕ}}iÃ̈œ˜>ÌœÊ `>Ê µÕiÃÌ> *>LœÊ iÀÕ`>Ê«>À>}œ˜>ʘiiÊÃÕiÊ«œiÈiʏ>ÊȘ՜ÈÌDÊ`iÊVœÀ«œÊiʈÊ«ÀœvՓœ Greek, Roman and Capri recipes that purezza perduta. Dopodiché la fanciulla indossava un Ș`Àœ“iÊ V>«ÀiÃiÊ iÊ >“‡ `i>Ê«iiÊ`i>ÊÃÕ>Ê >̈`iÊ>iÊ`œVˆÊiÊÀ>ÃÈVÕÀ>˜ÌˆÊÀœÌœ˜`ˆÌDÊ`iˆÊ«œ“œ`œÀˆ largo e vistoso cappello e, passeggiando per il paese, ignite, even if only for veniva chiama da tutti “Lady”. Ma la cosa più Lˆi˜Ì>ÊÃՏ½ˆÃœ>ʏ>ÊÃÕ>ʘœ‡ “>ÌÕÀˆÊiÊ>iÊ>Ì>ۈV iÊiÃÃi˜âiÊ`iÊL>ȏˆVœÊœÊ`i½>}ˆœÊ`ˆÊœ“iÀˆV>ʓi“œÀˆ>° a very short time, incredibile è che la stessa modella, con la complicità a sleepy and Ûi>ÊIl Governatore di Capri]
˜V iÊ}À>âˆiÊ>>ÊVÕVˆ˜>Ê`iÊÃ՜ÊV՜VœÊ >Ì>`ˆiœ]ÊÀˆÌi˜Õ̜ʈÊÛiÀœÊˆ˜Ûi˜‡ di funzionari corrotti, diventava più volte Lady, distracted eros. facendo firmare più documenti con relativa rendita. `œÛiʈʫÀœÌ>}œ˜ˆÃ̈ÊܘœÊÌÀi ̜ÀiÊ`i>Ê̜ÀÌ>Ê`ˆÊ“>˜`œÀi]Ê >ŽÃˆ“ÊœÀ½ŽˆÊÀˆiÃViÊ«œˆÊ>Ê«>V>Àiʏ>Ê}iœÃˆ> Dopo che le “bezzoghe” sforbiciarono questa vergogna al parroco, la chiesa locale impose a tutte le ragazze «œÛiÀˆÊˆ˜}i˜ÕˆÊ«>Ã̜ÀiˆÊˆÃœ>˜ˆ] `i>ÊÃÕ>Ê >Àˆ>Ê
˜`ÀiiÛ>°Ê Ê>>Êvˆ˜iÊ`i>ÊÃÕ>ÊۈÌ>Ê œÀ“>˜Ê œÕ}>Ã]Ê>˜V i che «qualora decidessero di posare per un pittore, ˆ˜ˆâˆ>ÌˆÊ >ˆÊ «ˆÙÊ À>vvˆ˜>̈ «iÀʏ½ˆ˜ÃˆÃÌi˜â>Ê`ˆÊÀ> >“ÊÀii˜iÊV iÊ>LˆÌ>Û>Ê>`Ê
˜>V>«ÀˆÊ>Ê6ˆ>ʏÊ,œ‡ dovevano vestire con abiti in cui non si veda neanche un pollice di carne recitando durante la posa il rosario }ˆœV ˆÊiÀœÌˆVˆÊˆLiÀ̈˜ˆ°Ê Ã>ˆœ]ÊÀ>VVœ}ˆiÊVœ˜Ê“œÌ>ʈÀœ˜ˆ>ÊiÊ>Õ̜ˆÀœ˜ˆ>ʘiÊˆLÀœÊVenere in Cucina: alla Madonna o Sant’Antonio». / Rosina, Carmela,
}ˆÊˆ˜ˆâˆÊ`iÊ œÛiVi˜Ìœ Le maree del cuore manuale della cucina erotica ÌÕÌÌiʏiÊÀˆViÌÌiÊ}ÀiV i]ÊÀœ“>˜iÊiÊV>«ÀiÈÊV i Graziella, Annina: there have been many Capri and Anacapri models that with their Greek goddess profiles >«ÀˆÊ`ˆÛˆi˜iʘiÊ“œ˜`œÊˆÊ«>À>`ˆÃœÊ«iÀ`Õ̜Ê`i½œ“œÃiÃÃÕ>ˆÌD]ÊÈ>ʓ>ÃV ˆiÊV iÊvi“‡ >VVi˜`œ˜œ]Ê>˜V iÊÃiÊ«iÀÊ«œV ˆÃȓœ]Ê՘ÊiÀœÃÊ>ÃÜ«ˆÌœÊiÊ`ˆÃÌÀ>Ì̜° have enthralled famous artists like Benjamin Vautier “ˆ˜ˆi]ÊiʈÊ«Õ˜ÌœÊ`ˆÊÀˆviÀˆ“i˜ÌœÊ`ˆÊiVVi˜ÌÀˆV iÊ>Û>˜}Õ>À`ˆiÊ>À̈Ã̈V i°Ê ½mÊ`>ÊV ˆi`iÀÈ and John Sargent making them fall in love. At the end Originally it was the purchiacchella, purslane, a of the 19th century, modelling became a real job; many VœÃ>ÊÃ>ÀiLLiÀœÊÃÌ>̈ʏ>ÊÃ̜Àˆ>ÊiʈÊ“ˆÌœÊ`ˆÊ >«ÀˆÊÃi˜â>ʏiʜ«iÀiÊ`½>ÀÌiÊ`ˆÊÌ>˜ÌˆÊ>À̈Ã̈ʜ“œ‡ miraculous plant in Tiberius’ time that reawakened less well-off Capri families managed to get by with their the sleeping senses. This wild rocket, that help. In 1875, the Austrian writer Wihlem Ritter von ÃiÃÃÕ>ˆÊV iÊۈÃÃiÀœÊÃՏ½ˆÃœ>Êiʏ½>“>Àœ˜œÊ«Àœvœ˜`>“i˜Ìi°Ê½>“œÀiÊ«>˜iÀœÌˆVœÊV>«ÀiÃiÊm mischievously hides a reference to the female Wymental, pen name Wyl, arrived on the island and discovered a quite dishonourable truth about the Capri >˜ÌiÈ}˜>˜œÊ`ˆÊµÕi>ÊV iÊ>`iÃÜʘiÊˆ˜}Õ>}}ˆœÊ}ˆœÛ>˜ˆiÊۈi˜iʈ˜`ˆV>Ì>ÊVœ“iÊfluid sexual organ (in Greek its name means “a small, models. He recounts that after Lord Goosbery had sexuality]ÊÃiÃÃÕ>ˆÌDÊvÕˆ`>]ÊÃi˜â>ʈ“«œÃˆâˆœ˜ˆÊ`ˆÊÀ՜ˆÊiʈ`i˜ÌˆÌD]ʏˆLiÀ>]ÊV iÊÃi}ÕiÊ«ˆÙʏi fiery opening”), was cultivated for the first time married a very poor ciociara (southern Italian woman) at Villa Jovis in mobile greenhouses on wheels by and gave her a castle in England, all the other models “>ÀiiÊ`iÊV՜ÀiÊV iÊ`i>ʓi˜Ìi° Serpullo, the Emperor’s agronomist. Edwin Cerio became green with envy and devised a subtle and diabolical trick. Every young girl who had been dishonoured by a foreign artist, who for obvious THE TIDES OF THE HEART THE ISLAND reasons could not marry her, dragged the artist characters are three poor innocent shepherd OF THE CORNUTI, together with witnesses in front of a complicit boys of the island, initiated into the most refined L’isola dei cornuti THE CHEATED-ON MEN municipal employee and compelled the artist to sign a Panerotic love understands that love between erotic libertine practices. document to pay an agreed sum of money for life as human beings has no boundaries, labels or At the beginning of the 20th century, Capri Per secoli a Capri l’undici novembre si festeggiava la festa dei Cornuti. Era un For centuries in Capri the feast of the cornuti was held on November 11. It was a pagan rite compensation for her lost virtue. After this, the young identity. In Capri, in the course of time, every became the Paradise Lost for both male and rito pagano che trova le sue radici nei baccanali e nei riti dionisiaci. In quella that had its roots in the Bacchanalia and Dionysian rites. On that day, all the husbands who girl would wear a wide, flashy hat and when taking a taboo has been wiped out by the numerous female homosexuality, point of reference for data tutti i mariti che avevano la certezza di essere cornuti si riunivano, e tra were certain of being cheated on met together and danced, sang, drank great amounts of walk in the village everyone would call her “Lady”. The people who have gone off the rails of life, and eccentric artistic avant-gardes. We must ask balli, canti e ricche bevute di vino, andavano sotto i balconi delle consorti, sbef- wine and gathered under their wives’ balconies mocking them for their infidelities. The most incredible part of the story is that the same here have lived out their sexuality without fear of ourselves what would the history and the myth feggiandole per la loro infedeltà. I mariti traditi abbellivano la loro fronte con betrayed husbands adorned their foreheads with horns of various sizes, types and colours. model, with the help of corrupt officials, could became corna di varie dimensioni, tipo e colore. I più ricchi avevano corna dipinte d’oro, The richer husbands had horns painted in gold, the bourgeoisie had red horns and the being isolated and judged. of Capri have become without the works of art “Lady” several times, getting the documents that i borghesi corna rosse e i contadini e i pescatori corna al naturale. Lo scrittore farmers and fishermen had plainer horns. The Russian writer Leonid Andreev, who stayed The Tiberius syndrome, the emperor who by many homosexual artists that lived on the granted her the income signed each time. After the russo Leonid Andreev, che soggiornò a Capri ospite di Gor’kij, fu molto divertito in Capri as Gor’kij’s guest, was enormously amused and impressed by this celebration: he unrealistically is accused of orgiastic depravity, “bezzoghe” (the gossips) revealed this shameful story island and loved it profoundly. Capri panerotic e colpito da questa festa: riteneva gli isolani un popolo molto civile, autoironico, believed the islanders to be a mostcivil, self-ironic people, with betrayed husbands preferring to the parish priest, the local church ordained that all created the myth of an island where every sexual love is the forerunner of what, in the language of dove i mariti traditi preferivano essere “cornuti e contenti” piuttosto come nel to be “happy cheated-husbands” rather than violent and vindictive men as in the rest of the girls “who decided to pose for an artist, had to wear fantasy, male or female, becomes reality. Even the young, is today called fluid sexuality, with no resto del Sud, violenti e vendicativi. Così nel 1915 scrisse una novella, I cornuti, the South. Hence in 1915 he wrote a novella, Rogonoscy (The Cheated-on men), that tells dresses that did not allow even a thumb nail of skin to the divine Marquis De Sade was influenced by imposition of roles and identity, a free sexuality che narra le vicende della frivola Rosina e del povero Tapie, un ricco e stimato the story of the frivolous Rosina and poor Tapie, a rich and respected man of Capri. The be seen and they had to recite the rosary to the this Capri syndrome and set his novella The following the tides of the heart more than those caprese. La festa dei Cornuti fu festeggiata a Capri fino all’avvento del Fascismo cornuti feast was held in Capri until the advent of Fascism when it was abolished Madonna or to Saint Anthony while posing”. Governor of Capri on the island. The main of the mind. che la proibì ritenendola poco dignitosa per il guerriero e virile uomo italico. because it was believed to be undignified for the warrior and the virile Italian man.

94 95 [Curiosità]

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LiÀÌœÊ œÀ>ۈ>ʘiÊÃ՜ AMOROUS NIGHTMARES Incubi amorosi 1934 v>ÊV>«ˆÀiÊV iʏ>ʫՏȜ˜iÊ`ˆÊ“œÀÌi Quando Lenin partì da Capri fu perentorio rivolgendosi a Gor’kij: «Devi partire. L’aria di Capri non s’addice ad un rivoluzionario». ÃՏ½ˆÃœ>Ê>ââÕÀÀ>ÊÈʫբÊÌÀ>ÃvœÀ“>Àiʈ˜Ê՘> Ma “l’amaro” Gor’kij trovava dolce abbinare il sogno rivoluziona- ÊœvvÀi`œÊ*>ÀˆÃiÊ>ÊÀˆVœÀ`>ÀVˆÊV iÊ>Ê >«Àˆ «>À̈Vœ>ÀiʏˆLˆ`œÊ“>ÃV ˆiÊV iÊmÊVœ˜Ìi“‡ rio alle gocce di felicità che ogni giorno anelava dalle labbra della sua Maria. Nel 1952 il poeta Pablo Neruda vive un inverno ˆÊVœ˜vˆ˜iÊÌÀ>ʏ>ÊLiiââ>]ʏ½iÀœÃÊiʏ>ʓœÀÌiÊm «œÀ>˜i>“i˜ÌiÊ>ÌÌÀ>ÌÌ>ÊÈ>Ê`>Ê>̜Ê܏>ÀiÊV i d’amore sull’isola, dove ritrova quella gioia e innocenza che si vive quando si è bambini. Con i suoi travestimenti, con le favole che ÜÌ̈ˆÃȓœÊiʈ“«iÀViÌ̈Lˆi°Ê½ˆÃœ>Ê >Ê՘> `>ʵÕiœÊœÃVÕÀœÊiÊ`ˆÃÌÀÕÌ̈ۜÊ`iiÊv>˜Ì>Èi dedica a Matilde e i piccoli e delicati regali di carta ritrova un’in- «Àœvœ˜`>ÊÛ>i˜â>ÊiÜÌiÀˆV>ÊV iÊÈÊVi>ʈ˜ iÀœÌˆV iÊvi““ˆ˜ˆˆ° nocenza perduta, e crea le poesie d’amore più belle che siano mai scritte a Capri, I versi del Capitano. ÌÕÌÌ>ʏ>ÊÃÕ>ʘ>ÌÕÀ>°ÊÊÛiVV ˆÊˆÃœ>˜ˆÊÃ>˜˜œ It is Goffredo Parise who reminds us that in Capri Qui lo sguardo triste di Asjia Lacis, regista rivoluzionaria lettone, V iʈÊÛi˜ÌœÊ`iÊ-Õ`]ÊV ˆ>“>̜ʺL>v՜}˜œ»] the line between eros and death is very fine and Eros diventerà per il filosofo tedesco Walter subtle. The island has a deep esoteric ÌÀ>ÃVˆ˜>Ê}ˆÊ>“œÀˆÊ«ˆÙÊVœ˜Ãœˆ`>̈ʈ˜Ê«Àœ‡ Benjamin il radioso viatico esistenziale significance that lies hidden in all its natural e rivoluzione e il poeta futurista Majakovskij, che vœ˜`ˆÊ «ÀiVˆ«ˆâˆ]Ê ÃV>Ìi˜>˜`œÊ ՘>Ê Ûˆœ‡ forces. The elderly islanders know that the firmava le lettere d’amore a Lili Brik EROS i˜Ì>]ÊÀiVœ˜`ˆÌ>Êiʜ“ˆVˆ`>Ê}iœÃˆ>°Êœ southerly wind, called “bafuogno”, can drag the con il disegno di un cucciolo, AND REVOLUTION firmest loves into deep precipices, unleashing a teneramente pensava che Capri fosse ÃVÀˆÌ̜ÀiÊÌi`iÃVœÊ>˜ÃÊiˆ˜âÊ ÜiÀà violent, obscure killer jealousy. una cuffia rosa che cinge il capo della sua amata. / When Lenin left >“Lˆi˜Ì>Ê>Ê >«ÀˆÊ˜œÛiiÊ}œÌˆV i The German writer Hans Heinz Ewers set his Capri he was adamant when he spoke to Gor’kij: “you must leave. Gothic horror novellas, complete with vampires Capri air does not befit a revolution.” But the “bitter” Gor’kij œÀÀœÀÊVœ˜ÊÌ>˜ÌœÊ`ˆÊÛ>“«ˆÀˆÊiʈ˜‡ and bloody amorous nightmares, in the found it sweet to combine the revolutionary dream with the drops of happiness that he craved from the lips of his Maria. In 1952, VÕLˆÊ >“œÀœÃˆÊ Ã>˜}Ո˜>ÀˆÊ >‡ shadows of the Faraglioni. And many believe that Mary Shelley, the author of Frankenstein, the poet Pablo Neruda lived a winter of love on the island, where ½œ“LÀ>Ê`iˆÊ>À>}ˆœ˜ˆ°Ê ½>ÌÀ> was inspired to write her masterpiece by the he found again the joy and innocence that we experience in childhood. With his disguises, with the fairy tales he dedicated bipolar beauty of Capri in winter and by the life «>ÀÌiÊ “œÌˆÊ ÀˆÌi˜}œ˜œÊ V iÊ > to Matilde and with the small, delicate paper gifts, he of the Prince of Sansevero. The ephebic nudity ÃÌiÃÃ>Ê >ÕÌÀˆViÊ `ˆÊ Frankenstein] rediscovered a lost innocence, and he wrote the most beautiful of the Marchesa Casati Stampa and of love poems that have ever been written in Capri, The Captain’s >ÀÞÊ- iiÞ]ÊvÕʈëˆÀ>Ì>Ê«iÀʈ Romaine Brooks, icons of feminine dandyism, Verses. were transformed into immortal works of art in Here the sad gaze of Asjia Lacis, revolutionary Latvian theatre ÃÕœÊ V>«œ>ۜÀœÊ `>>Ê Lˆ«œ>Ài grey-black tones. Also Alberto Moravia in his director, became, for the German philosopher Walter Benjamin, Liiââ>Ê`i>Ê >«ÀˆÊˆ˜ÛiÀ˜>iÊi book 19 3 4 implies that the death impulse on the radiant existentialist trusted companion, and the futurist the blue island can transform itself into a poet Majakovskij, who signed his love letters to Lili Brik with a `>>ÊۈÌ>Ê`iÊ*Àˆ˜Vˆ«iÊ`ˆÊ->˜Ãi‡ particular masculine libido that is drawing of a puppy, saw Capri as a tender pink cap over his ÛiÀœ°Ê iÊ ˜Õ`ˆÌDÊ iviLˆV iÊ `i> contemporaneously attracted to both the loved one’s head. sunny and dark and destructive side of female >ÀV iÃ>Ê >Ã>ÌˆÊ -Ì>“«>Ê iÊ `ˆ erotic fantasies. ,œ“>ˆ˜iÊ ÀœœŽÃ]ʈVœ˜iÊ`i L’amore 2.0 LOVE 2.0 `>˜`ˆÃ“œÊ vi““ˆ˜ˆi] ÃˆÊ ÌÀ>ÃvœÀ“>Àœ˜œ i½iÌDÊ`i½œÀœÊ`i>Ê œViÊ6ˆÌ>ʏiÊ`ˆV ˆ>À>∜˜ˆÊ`½>“œÀiÊV iÊÈÊÃÕ}}i>Û>˜œÊˆ˜Ê՘ÊL>VˆœÊœÊˆ˜Ê՘ÊÌÀˆÃÌiÊ>``ˆœ >ÛiÛ>˜œÊ>ʏœÀœÊˆ“«œÀÌ>˜â>°Ê œÌˆÊÀˆVœÀ`>˜œÊ>ÊÃ̜Àˆ>Ê`ˆÊ՘ÊÀˆVVœÊ>“iÀˆV>˜œÊV iÊVœ““ˆÃȜ˜¢Ê>Ê՘ʫœÀ̈iÀiÊ`ˆ ՘Ê>LiÀ}œÊÃ̜ÀˆVœÊ½ˆ˜V>ÀˆVœÊ`ˆÊ“>˜`>Àiʘi>ÊV>“iÀ>Ê`i>ÊÃÕ>Ê>“>Ì>Ê`ÕiVi˜ÌœÊÀœÃiÊÀœÃÃiÊiÊviViÊV>˜Ì>ÀiÊ>ÊÌÀiÊV ˆ‡ Ì>ÀÀˆÃ̈ÊV>«ÀiÈʏiÊ«ˆÙÊLiiÊV>˜âœ˜iʘ>«œiÌ>˜iÊ`½>“œÀiÊÜÌ̜ʏ>ÊÃÕ>Êvˆ˜iÃÌÀ>°Ê
`iÃÜÊ>Ê >«ÀˆÊ½>“œÀiʘ>ۈ}>ÊVœ˜ ˆÊÃ՜ÊۈÀÌÕ>iÊiʈ˜ViÃÃ>˜Ìiʘ>ÀVˆÃˆÃ“œÊÃÕÊ7 >ÌÃ
««ÊiÊ>ViLœœŽ°Ê ˆ}ˆ>ˆ>Ê`ˆÊvÀ>ÈÊ`½>“œÀiÊiʺÃivˆiV>«ÀˆŽˆÃûʜ}˜ˆ }ˆœÀ˜œÊÃ>«>˜œÊ«iÀÊ«iÀ`iÀÈʘi>ʏˆµÕˆ`>]ʏ>LˆÀˆ˜ÌˆV>ʈ““i˜ÃˆÌDÊ`i>ÊÀiÌi°Ê->ÀiLLiÊLiœÊV iÊÌÕÌ̈ʵÕiÃ̈ÊL>Vˆ V>«ÀiÈÊÈʫiÀ`iÃÃiÀœÊ˜iœÊë>∜ʫiÀÊ`ˆÛi˜Ì>ÀiÊ«œÛiÀiÊ`ˆÊÃÌiiÊiÊvœÀ“>Ài]Ê}À>˜iœÊ`œ«œÊ}À>˜iœ]ʈ˜Ê՘>ʏœ˜Ì>˜> }>>ÃÈ>]Ê՘ʘ՜Û>ʺˆÃœ>Ê`iˆÊL>Vˆ»]Ê`ˆÊvÕÌÕÀˆÃ̈V>ʓi“œÀˆ>]Ê`œÛiÊÌÕÌ̈Ê}ˆÊ՜“ˆ˜ˆ]Ê`ˆÊœ}˜ˆÊÀiˆ}ˆœ˜i]ÊÀ>ââ>Êiʈ`i˜ÌˆÌD ÃiÃÃÕ>iÊ«œÌiÃÃiÀœÊL>Vˆ>ÀÈʏˆLiÀˆ]Ê>“>ÀÈÊiÊۈÛiÀiʈ˜Ê«>Vi°

During the golden age of the Dolce Vita, declarations of love sealed with a kiss or with a sad farewell had a certain importance. Many remember the story of a rich American who ordered a hotel concierge to have two hundred red roses sent to his loved one’s room and who had three guitar players from Capri sing the most beautiful Neapolitan love songs under her window. Nowadays in Capri love navigates with its virtual and constant narcissism on WhatsApp and Facebook. Every day, thousands of words of love and “selfiecaprikiss” set sail only to lose themselves in the liquid, labyrinth immensity of the web. It would be wonderful if all these Capri kisses lost themselves in space and became stardust and speck after speck in a faraway galaxy they created a new “island of kisses” a futurism inspired island where every person, of every religion, race and sexual identity could kiss each other freely, love each other, and live in peace. ■

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CAPRI MOOD

Tutti i colori del sole per un look esclusivo dall’alba al tramonto con accessori di tendenza e gioielli unici Ma anche outfit in puro spirito caprese adatti ad ogni occasione L’uomo è casual ma sempre molto chic Mentre i bambini rubano la scena dell’eleganza ai più grandi All the colours of the sun for an exclusive look from dawn to dusk with the latest accessories and unique jewellery And outfits in pure Capri style for any occasion The menswear is casual but always very chic But the kids steal the show in terms of elegance [CapriMood] via Roma CAPRI PEOPLE •

via Le Botteghe A D

bbcapri.com A R P

MINI 3JOURS Tutta l’esuberanza del giallo è messa in risalto dalle rifiniture multicolor dei bordi dipinti a mano. • MINI 3JOURS. All the exuberance of the yellow is highlighted by the multicolour trim on the hand-painted edges.

FENDI • via Camerelle

CA via CamerelleN FO RA LES COPAINS da Massa via Vittorio Emanuele

ROBERTO CAVALLI via Vittorio Emanuele INTRAMONTABILE CASHMERE La nuance giallo limone si accende nella tinta unita della blusa e nelle righe della stola. • CLASSIC CASHMERE. The gleam of lemon yellow in the single-colour top and the stripes of the stole.

FARELLA • via Fuorlovado

OUTFIT E ACCESSORI PER UNA DONNA BELLA COME IL SOLE, VESTITA CON TUTTE LE SFUMATURE DELLA STELLA LLLEEETT PIÙ BRILLANTE. OUTFITS AND ACCESSORIES T TTTHHH FOR A WOMAN AS BEAUTIFUL AS THE SUN, EE ROLEX da La Campanina E DRESSED IN ALL THE SHADES OF THE SSS via Vittorio Emanuele UUU BRIGHTEST OF THE STARS. NNNSSS HHH IIINNN EEE III LEO MASILLO NNN JU’STO via G. Orlandi • Anacapri via Vittorio Emanuele via Longano • Capri LABORATORIO via Ignazio Cerio 102 103 [CapriMood]

DIPINTA A MANO Piume blu e turchesi JU’STO per la borsa-secchiello con manico via Vittorio Emanuele a spalla regolabile e tessuto impermeabile. • HAND-PAINTED. Blue and turquoise feathers in this bucket bag with adjustable shoulder strap and waterproof fabric.

LIVIO DE SIMONE da La Parisienne piazza Umberto I via Le Botteghe via Le via Fuorlovado G R A Z I A

Variable Dress Code E M A R I C A V O Z

CODICE VARIABILE Z A MINI E MAXI, CASUAL ED ELEGANTI, MORBIDE O RIGIDE, DI OGNI FORMA E COLORE. PER IL MARE O PER LA SERA. INSOMMA, AD OGNUNA LA SUA. MINIS AND MAXIS, CASUAL AND ELEGANT, SOFT OR HARD, IN ALL SHAPES AND COLOURS. FOR THE SEA OR FOR EVENING WEAR. IN OTHER WORDS, TO EACH HER OWN.

FENDI via Camerelle

PER IL MARE E NON SOLO La borsa è in tessuto stampato con il disegno di Laetitia Cerio. Il tutto arricchito dal particolare manico in corda. • NOT JUST FOR THE SEASIDE. The bag is in fabric printed with Laetitia Cerio’s sketch. Topped off with an unusual cord handle.

ANGELA PUTTINI ECO CAPRI piazzetta Cerio via Le Botteghe

104 [CapriMood] UNICIUnique FORME SCULTOREE ED ESUBERANTI PER GIOIELLI ESCLUSIVI E DALL’ALTO TASSO DI ORIGINALITÀ. EXUBERANT SCULPTED SHAPES IN THESE EXCLUSIVE AND HIGHLY ORIGINAL PIECES OF JEWELLERY.

LA CAMPANINA via Vittorio Emanuele GRAZIA E MARICA VOZZA via Fuorlovado via Le Botteghe

MINIATURA Un anello che come una tela racconta la Dolce Vita di Capri negli anni Cinquanta attraverso il tratto dell’illustratore Fabio Finocchioli. • MINIATURE. A ring that shows the Dolce ANGELA PUTTINI Vita of 1950s Capri like via Le Botteghe a painting, through the brush of illustrator Fabio Finocchioli.

CHANTECLER via Vittorio Emanuele

DE GRISOGONO via Vittorio Emanuele BULGARI via Camerelle CRIVELLI via Camerelle

106 [CapriMood] R O I

N R U

O I J

I N

L U L S J A N E V

N

I O A R A C L A C O B A T

R & M da BIRBIRIPÌ • via Sopramonte

E T

B N

O O R via Vittorio Emanuele M

R

A

H via Camerelle

CUCÙ LAB

o da BIRBIRIPÌ • via Sopramonte

ir g

g L’ELEGANZA NON HA ETÀ E ANCHE PER I PIÙ PICCOLI NON C’È CHE L’IMBARAZZO

o Round i

r DELLA SCELTA. ELEGANCE IS AGELESS o d and round AND EVEN THE LITTLEST ONES ARE SPOILT ARTIGIANATO CAPRESE aBRIIÌ• via Sopramonte da BIRBIRIPÌ O t Nascono in un piccolo negozio-laboratorio e sono tutti cuciti n R the gardeno FOR CHOICE. I M e ricamati a mano. • CAPRI CRAFTSMANSHIP. They’re made in a little

U workshop-boutique and are all sewn and embroidered by hand. S I

PIZZI E MERLETTI • via Giuseppe Orlandi • Anacapri

PEGPEREGO pegperego.com

UNISEX Coloratissimo e allegro il pesce che arriva direttamente dai fondali dell’isola e prende forma ROCKETBABY nella T-shirt dipinta a mano. • This gaily coloured fish rocketbaby.it has come right up from the depths of the sea to feature in this hand-painted T-shirt.

CAPRI SHOP via Giuseppe Orlandi • Anacapri

108 109 [CapriMood]

MULTICOLOR All’insegna del colore il costume con le stampe ispirate all’isola azzurra. • MULTICOLOURED. Brightly coloured swim shorts with prints inspired by the azure isle.

LIVIO DE SIMONE da La Parisienne piazza Umberto I

CASUAL AND CHIC EASY MA SEMPRE ELEGANTI. SONO GLI OUTFIT E GLI ACCESSORI AL MASCHILE PER OGNI MOMENTO DELLA GIORNATA. EASY BUT ALWAYS ELEGANT. OUTFITS CAPRI TOUCH da Mariorita • piazza Vittoria • Anacapri AND ACCESSORIES FOR MEN FOR ALL TIMES OF THE DAY.

IWC da RESTIVO Y’AM via Camerelle da La Marea via Madonna delle Grazie

ECO CAPRI piazzetta Cerio

110 SPIRITO CAPRESE

Uno stile inconfondibile proposto da artigiani, boutique e marchi storici dell’isola azzurra

CAPRI SPIRIT. An unmistakeable style offered by the artisans, boutiques and historic labels of Capri

Styling Rossella Funghi Foto • Photos Umberto D’Aniello Modella • Model Roberta Diana

Abito LABORATORIO Borsa RUE DE VERNEUIL da LABORATORIO Anelli e orecchini VIRGINIA

Dress LABORATORIO Bag RUE DE VERNEUIL from LABORATORIO Rings and earrings VIRGINIA Pantaloni e blusa LA PARISIENNE Scarpe GORDANA DIMITRIJEVIC da LA PARISIENNE Ciondolo ANGELA PUTTINI

Trousers and top LA PARISIENNE Shoes GORDANA DIMITRIJEVIC from LA PARISIENNE Charm ANGELA PUTTINI

Total look FARELLA Collane e orecchini GRAZIA e MARICA VOZZA

Total look FARELLA Necklaces and earrings GRAZIA e MARICA VOZZA Gonna e maglia LES COPAINS da MASSA Borsa ORO CAPRI Sandali CANFORA Collana, anelli e orecchini LA CAMPANINA Caftano OPALINE • Costume ISOLE E VULCANI Clutch ORO CAPRI • Sandali CB FUSION | Tutto da ORO CAPRI Top and skirt LES COPAINS from MASSA Collane e orecchini ANGELA PUTTINI Bag ORO CAPRI Sandals CANFORA Kaftan OPALINE • Swimsuit ISOLE E VULCANI Necklaces, rings and earrings LA CAMPANINA Clutch ORO CAPRI • Sandals CB FUSION | All from ORO CAPRI Necklaces and earrings ANGELA PUTTINI Blusa ECO CAPRI Pantalone LA PARISIENNE Foulard ECO CAPRI Collana e orecchini GRAZIA e MARICA VOZZA

Blouse ECO CAPRI Trousers LA PARISIENNE Foulard ECO CAPRI Necklaces and earrings GRAZIA e MARICA VOZZA Make Up Francesca Staiano Hair Raffaele Vanacore Assistente allo styling Antimo Assuntore Assistente al fotografo Davide Esposito Backstage Antonella Maresca

Completo LABORATORIO Clutch MARIA LA ROSA per LABORATORIO Diadema e anelli LA CAMPANINA

Outfit LABORATORIO Gonna e stola ORO CAPRI Clutch MARIA LA ROSA from LABORATORIO Blusa AVN • Scarpe CASTA E DOLLY | da ORO CAPRI Diadem and earrings LA CAMPANINA Bracciale e orecchini GRAZIA E MARICA VOZZA

Skirt and stole ORO CAPRI Blouse AVN • Shoes CASTA E DOLLY | from ORO CAPRI Bracelet and earrings GRAZIA E MARICA VOZZA Beauty

123 www.carthusia.com [Beauty] UNA SPA PER DUE Applicare un dopo barba per lenire e idratare la pelle dopo la rasatura è fondamentale. Ecco allora l’after shave a base A SPA for two Dopo ogni rasatura di olio di macadamia, profondamente emolliente e con una composizione simile alla pelle dell’uomo. A rafforzarne le caratteristiche ci sono poi la vitamina E, l’estratto di schisandra con proprietà lenitive e antistress, l’allantonina e la canosina con i suoi effetti antiossidanti. Basta massaggiare sulla pelle con gesti circolari per ridonare la giusta idratazione. After every shave Applying an aftershave to soften and moisturize the skin after shaving is a must. So here’s a macadamia oil QUISIBEAUTY based aftershave that’s deeply emollient with a Un’alternativa esclusiva per una serata via Camerelle • tel. 081.837.0788 composition resembling men’s skin. And to reinforce its caprese. Per festeggiare un’occasione ro- qualities, there’s vitamin E, schisandra extract with mantica, una ricorrenza particolare, o An alternative and exclusive way to spend a Capri evening. To celebrate a romantic soothing and anti-stress properties, allantoin, and semplicemente per trascorrere qualche occasion, a special anniversary or simply to spend a few special hours with the person you canosina with its antioxidant effects. Just massage it ora un po’ speciale con la persona che love most or with your best friend. It’s a chance to spend time together enjoying wellness, into the skin with circular movements to restore the più amate o con l’amica del cuore. Un pampering and the magical atmosphere of the Quisibeauty salon. right moisture content. modo per stare insieme a base di benes- Two hours tailor-made especially for you, where you’ll be offered fruit kebabs, gourmet sere, coccole e la magica atmosfera della chocolates and excellent champagne. CARTHUSIA Quisibeauty. You can relax in the warm water of the covered pool, enveloped in the magical atmosphere via Camerelle, via Fuorlovado Due ore personalizzate solo per voi dove created with candles, and let your stress evaporate away in the Turkish bath or sauna, with e via Parco Augusto • Capri non mancheranno spiedini di frutta, cioc- the hot steam and perfumed essences. viale Axel Munthe • Anacapri colatini gourmet e dell’ottimo champagne. Then indulge yourself with a health-giving “candle” massage. In the Ayurveda tradition, the Vi potrete così rilassare nella tiepida oil that comes from the candle, known as liquid fire, is a substance that helps to re-establish acqua della piscina coperta circondati the psycho-physical balance, generating a deep state of well-being. The warmth of the dalla magica atmosfera creata dalle can- vegetable butter intensifies the moisturizing and nourishing action, allowing the active Volete cambiare stile? Il modo più semplice è andare dele e fare evaporare tutto lo stress nel substances to act more deeply, while the carefully selected essences that emanate from A ognuna dal parrucchiere e... darci un taglio! Quelli di sta- bagno turco o nella sauna tra vapori caldi the candle make this type of massage classify as aromatherapy. gione parlano di morbidezza e accarezzano il viso. ed essenze profumate. All this takes place to evocative background music, which can il suo Chiome ondulate che si muovono sulle spalle o ca- schetti e carré caratterizzati da frangette cortis- E poi concedervi un benefico massaggio be personalized using your favourite playlist. sime o da effetti wavy ottenuti con onde e ciocche mosse. Anche la riga “candle”. L’olio che si ricava dalla candela, In other words, everything to make your evening unforgettable. torna prepotentemente in auge, soprattutto nella sua variante molto late- detto fuoco liquido, è secondo la tradi- The cost will be in four figures, but it’s well worth it. You are rale che spesso porta a coprire l’occhio suggerendo quell’aura di mistero zione ayurvedica una sostanza che aiuta strongly advised to book at least two days in advance. che era propria delle dive del passato. Ma per tutte un suggerimento, a ristabilire l’equilibrio psicofisico dando lasciatevi consigliare. Qui sapranno farlo con professionalità e stile. vita ad un profondo stato di benessere. Il Caprese ovviamente. calore del burro vegetale intensifica PREZIOSO PLATINO Un trattamento “dalla testa ai piedi” con infu- l’azione idratante e nutriente permet- To each her own sioni di puro platino per regalare giovinezza Do you want to change your look? The simplest way is to go tendo alle sostanze attive di agire più in e donare un meraviglioso senso di benessere. to the hairdresser’s and... get a haircut! This season’s profondità e le essenze emanate dalla can- Due esperte estetiste si prenderanno cura trendy cuts are soft, caressing the face. Wavy locks that dela e opportunamente scelte fanno rien- della tua pelle grazie alla straordinaria effica- ripple on the shoulders, bobs and page-boy cuts with cia di Platinum collection di La Praire. Ag- very short fringes or wavy effects and curls. Partings trare questo tipo di massaggio in un giungendo all’esclusivo massaggio viso un are making a strong come back, especially emphatic trattamento di aromaterapia. rituale per mani e piedi e la pelle apparirà su- side partings that often cover the ear, suggesting A fare da colonna sonora una suggestiva bito idratata, luminosa e più giovane. that aura of mystery that hovered around the musica di sottofondo che potrà essere per- A “head to toe treatment” with infusions of pure divas of the past. But here’s a suggestion for sonalizzata con la vostra playlist preferita. platinum to restore youthfulness and give a everyone: get some advice. They know how to Insomma tutto per rendere questa serata wonderful sense of well-being. Two beauty experts do it here, with professionalism and style. will take care of your skin using the remarkably Capri style, of course. indimenticabile. effective Platinum collection from La Praire. With Una tariffa a tre zeri ma ne vale veramente RAFFAELE HAIR PASSION a hands and feet treatment in addition to the la pena. Assolutamente consigliato preno- via Giuseppe Orlandi • tel. 081.837.2606 exclusive facial massage, the skin will appear tare almeno con un paio di giorni di anticipo. hydrated, luminous and more youthful.

124 125 [Beauty] PEACE & LOVE Un rosa baby e un verde menta pastello per una manicure primaverile dalle tonalità tenui con una perlescenza unica. In edizione limitata e firmata YSL. / A baby pink and pastel mint green for a spring manicure with delicate shades that have a unique pearly quality. In a limited edition from YSL.

BRA Effect Con la forza EFFETTO dell’acqua BRA DELPHINA • via Vittorio Emanuele

Trenta minuti per un seno rassodato, elastico e tonico. Un trattamento che non a caso, visto che siamo sull’isola azzurra, si chiama Faraglioni. Si parte con una pulizia che viene effettuata grazie ad un’emulsione tonificante e poi si passa all’applicazione Invece di perdere gli effetti di protezione durante il bagno in mare o in pi- di una maschera preparata al momento con argilla verde scina, questa nuova linea di solari Shiseido al contatto con l’acqua rafforza in polvere, siero vitaminico e gel al silicio. Mentre la ma- il filtro solare. Succede grazie alla tecnologia WetForce che sfruttando alcuni schera agisce si vanno a trattare le braccia, sempre con componenti presenti nell’acqua e nel sudore crea un velo idrorepellente che un’emulsione tonificante, e successivamente si applica potenzia la barriera anti UV. I nuovi Expert Sun Aging Protection oltre a il body Mei gel corpo dagli effetti drenanti e antismaglia- proteggere efficacemente la pelle, si occupano anche della sua bellezza e ture. La sua base è costituita da gomma di Guar attivata della sua salute. Contengono, infatti, l’estratto di foglie di rose apple, che con olii essenziali di anice, finocchio, carvi e verbena. E inibisce l’ossidazione causata dai raggi UV, scutellaria baicalensis liquid una volta eliminata la maschera verrà applicato anche che previene i danni ai fibroblasti e l’estratto di ononis che ripara i danni sui seni. Completa il trattamento il tonico RoseMei. Pia- alla membrana basale. Inoltre lo xilitolo attenua la ruvidità della pelle e il cevole nella fragranza, è il tonico ideale dall’azione Profense CEL previene le rughe e le macchie. In crema o lozione, con fattore astringente e disarrossante e dall’effetto rinfrescante. protettivo 30 o 50. Thirty minutes for a firm, elastic, well-toned bust. And With the power of water naturally, since we’re on Capri, the treatment’s called Rather than losing its protective effects during a dip in the sea or pool, in Faraglioni. this new line of Shiseido sunscreen, the solar filter is actually reinforced on It starts with cleansing, using a toning-effect emulsion and contact with the water. This is due to the WetForce technology, which then continues with the application of a mud pack exploits some components present in water and in sweat to create a water- prepared then and there, with powdered green clay, repellent film that strengthens the UV barrier. In addition to effectively vitamin-enriched serum and silicone gel. While the protecting the skin, the new Expert Sun Aging Protection also acts to mudpack is acting, we go on to treat the arms using the promote its beauty and health. It contains extract of rose apple leaves, that same toning emulsion, and then we apply the Mei body gel inhibits the oxidation caused by UV rays, Scutellaria Baicalensis Liquid, that which has draining and anti-stretchmark effects. It is prevents damage to the fibroblasts, and extract of Ononis that repairs based on Guar gum activated with essential oils of anise, damage to the base membrane. The xylitol also softens the roughness of the fennel, caraway and verbena. Once the mudpack has been skin and the Profense CEL prevents wrinkles and blemishes. It comes in removed, it is also applied to the breasts. The treatment cream or lotion form, with protective factors 30 or 50. is completed with the RoseMei tonic. With its pleasant fragrance, it is the perfect tonic with a refreshing and da PEPINO • via Vittorio Emanuele astringent action that also helps prevent redness.

126 [People]

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ÀÃi˜>iÊ}œ`i˜`œÊ`iˆÊvÀÕÌ̈Êi iÊV>Ìi˜iÊV iʏ>ÊۈÌ>ÊLœÀ} iÃiÊ}ˆÊˆ“«œ˜iÛ>° >ÊL>ÀL>°Ê-Œ]ʏ>ÊL>ÀL>°Ê i“i˜ÌœÊV iÊ>˜Ìˆ‡ «ÀiÃi]ÊVœ˜ÊˆÊÃ՜ÊLiÀÀiÌ̜ÊÀœÃÜ]ʏ>Ê«ˆ«>ʈ˜ ˆ“«Ài˜`ˆÌœÀi°Ê *iÀÊ ½Õœ“œÊ V iÊ >Ê v>Ì̜ `ÕiʜÊÌÀiÊ}ˆœÀ˜ˆÊ«iÀÊÌi˜iÀ>ÊÀˆvˆ˜ˆÌ>]ʓ> `iiÊLiiââiÊ`œ˜>ÌiÊ`>½ˆÃœ>°Ê
˜V iʏ>ÊÃÕ> >ÊÃViÌœÊ`ˆÊ>ÃVˆ>À>ÊVÀiÃViÀiÊ>««i˜>Ê>ÀÀˆ‡ Vˆ«>ʈÊ}iÃ̈Êiʈʓœ`ˆÊ`ˆÊv>Ài°Ê*iÀÊ>V՘ˆÊÀ>«‡ LœVV>ÊiÊÜ«À>ÌÌÕÌ̜ʏ>ÊÃÕ>ʏ՘}>ÊL>ÀL>]Ê > `i½œÃ«ˆÌ>ˆÌDÊV>«ÀiÃiÊ՘½œ«iÀ>Ê`½>ÀÌi]ʏ> `iۜÊiÃÃiÀiÊ܏œÊˆœÊ>Êv>Àœ°Ê œ˜Ê“iʘiÊÃi‡ L>ÀL>Ê>vvœ˜`>ʏiÊÀ>`ˆVˆÊ˜iÊ“>Ài]ʈ˜V>À˜> Û>̜Ê>Ê >«Àˆ\ʁÊÃÌ>̜ʏ½>“Lˆi˜Ìiʈ܏>˜œ] «ÀiÃi˜Ì>Ê Ã>}}iââ>]Ê «iÀÊ >ÌÀˆÊ Õ˜Ê Vœ“œ`œ >vv>ÃVˆ˜>̜ÊÌÕÀˆÃ̈ÊiÊvœÌœ}À>vˆÊvˆ˜Ê`>}ˆÊ>˜˜ˆ L>ÀL>ÊmÊ՘>Êvˆ`>ÊVœ“«>}˜>Ê`>ʜÌÀiÊÌÀi˜‡ «>ÀiÀiˆÊ“>ˆ]Êv>Ê«>ÀÌiÊ`i>ʓˆ>Ê«iÀܘ>ˆÌD° ½>ëiÌ̜ʫˆÙÊÛiÀ>ViÊiÊ«ÕÀœÊ`i½ˆÃœ>°Ê ˆ>˜V> “ˆÊܘœÊÃi˜ÌˆÌœÊ“iÊÃÌiÃÜÊiÊÃÕLˆÌœÊ>VViÌÌ>̜

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Raffinata o ribelle. Selvaggia o curata. In BARBA al mondo Caratterizza il viso di un uomo e c’è chi non riesce più di Marilena D’Ambro a farne a meno

Da sinistra/From left: Federico Alvarez de Toledo, Vito Labianca, Tonino Cacace. foto di Davide Esposito

128 129 [People]

V>̜ʫiÀʏ>ʓˆ>ÊL>ÀL>°Ê
˜V iʵÕ>˜`œÊiÀœ VœœÀˆ°ÊÊÃÌ>Ì>Ê՘>ʘœÛˆÌDÊ«Àœ«ÀˆœÊVœ“iÊ>À‡ «Àœ“œÌœÀiÊ`ˆÊœ«iÀiÊ`½>ÀÌi°Ê>ÊL>ÀL>ÊmÊÃÌ>Ì> VœÃ>Ê`ˆÊ“iʈ˜Êœ}˜ˆÊœ«iÀ>‚°ÊiÊ«>ÀœiÊ`i GOING BEARDED long beard, has been fascinating tourists and >½
ÀÃi˜>iʈÊÌÕÀˆÃ̈ÊiÀ>˜œÊˆ˜VÕÀˆœÃˆÌˆÊ`>> ÀˆÛ>ÀiÊ>Ê >«Àˆ‚°Ê ÊVœ˜Ê>ÊÃÕ>ÊL>ÀL>Ê >Ê՘ ՘ÊÃi}˜œ]ÊۜiۜÊ`>Àiʈ˜ˆâˆœÊ>ʘ՜ۜÊVœÀÜ° “>iÃÌÀœÊViÀ>“ˆÃÌ>ÊSergio Rubino ÀˆÛi>˜œ INTO THE WORLD photographers since the 1930s. Today beards continue to sketch an outline of Capri, and do so vœÌ>Ê«iÕÀˆ>ÊÃՏʓˆœÊۈÜ°Ê>ÊL>ÀL>ÊÀ>««Ài‡ >««Õ˜Ì>“i˜ÌœÊvˆÃÜ]ʈÊÛi˜iÀ`ŒÊ“>Ì̈˜>°Ê *œˆÊ“ˆÊ`>Û>Ê՘Ê>ëiÌ̜ʫˆÙʓ>ÌÕÀœÊ`ÕÀ>˜Ìi ˆÊÃ՜ÊÀ>««œÀ̜ÊVœ˜Ê>ÊL>ÀL>°Ê œ˜ÛˆÛiÊVœ˜ through the people who wear them: six men, six Elegant or rebellious. Unruly or neatly Ãi˜Ì>ʏ>ʓˆ>Ê«iÀܘ>ˆÌDÊiʓˆÊ«ÀœÌi}}iʈ ՘ʓœ“i˜ÌœÊV iÊÀˆÃiÀۜʫiÀÊVœVVœ>ÀiÊ՘> ˆÊVœœµÕˆÊ`ˆÊ>ۜÀœ°Ê œ˜ÊmÊÃÌ>̜Êv>VˆiÊÌÀœ‡ “iÊ `>Ê µÕ>˜`œÊ >ÛiÛœÊ £ÇÊ >˜˜ˆ]Ê >˜VœÀ> beards, six stories. trimmed. They are a distinguishing Tonino Cacace, the owner of the Capri Palace ۈÜ]ÊÃiÊ«œÌiÃÃiÊ«>À>À“ˆÊ“ˆÊ`ˆÀiLLiÊV i «>ÀÌiÊ`ˆÊ“iÊÃi˜â>ʏ>ʵÕ>iʓˆÊÃi˜ÌˆÀiˆÊ뜇 Û>Àiʏ>ʏ՘} iââ>Ê}ˆÕÃÌ>]Ê œÊ`œÛÕ̜ÊëiÀˆ‡ «Àˆ“>Ê `i>Ê “ˆ>Ê V ˆ>“>Ì>Ê ˆ˜Ê “>Àˆ˜>° feature on a man’s face and there are hotel, has a trim beard that is just the right some who can no longer do without one ܘœÊv>˜Ì>Ã̈Vœ‚° }ˆœ‚°Ê >ÊV½mÊ>˜V iʵÕ>VœÃ>Ê`ˆÊ«ˆÙÊ«Àœ‡ “i˜Ì>Ài°Ê*Àˆ“>Ê>ÛiۜÊ܏œÊ՘ʫˆââiÌ̜]Ê«œˆ i““i˜œÊ`ÕÀ>˜ÌiʈÊÃiÀۈ∜ʓˆˆÌ>ÀiÊ œ length. It’s a part of his face that testifies to his love of the sea, first as a fisherman, then as a ,ˆÃVœ«iÀÌ>Ê`ˆÊÃiÊÃÌiÃÈÊiÊ`iiÊ«Àœ«ÀˆiʜÀˆ‡ vœ˜`œ°Ê>ÊL>ÀL>Ê«iÀʏՈÊmÊ՘ʫœ˜ÌiÊVœ˜Ê> œÊÃViÌœÊ`ˆÊ>ÃVˆ>À>ÊVÀiÃViÀiʈ˜Ê“>˜ˆiÀ> ۜÕ̜Ê̜}ˆiÀ>°Ê-œ˜œÊÀˆVœÀÜÊ>ÊÀi}œ>‡ by Marilena D’Ambro sailor and finally as a businessman. For the man photos by Davide Esposito }ˆ˜ˆ°Ê+ÕiÃ̜ÊmʈÊÈ}˜ˆvˆV>̜Ê`i>ÊL>ÀL>Ê«iÀ ÃÕ>Ê v>“ˆ}ˆ>]Ê Õ˜Ê i}>“iÊ Vœ˜Ê ˆÊ ÃÕœÊ Lˆ‡ œ“œ}i˜i>°Ê
ÛiÀiÊ >Ê L>ÀL>Ê iÊ >VV>Àiââ>À> “i˜Ìœ]Ê`œÛiʘœ˜ÊV½iÀ>ÊÃVÀˆÌ̜Ê`>ʘiÃÃ՘> who has made Capri hospitality into a work of art, his beard has been his loyal companion for over Federico Alvarez de Toledo]ʈ“«Ài˜`ˆÌœÀi ؜˜˜œ]Ê «iÀV jÊ µÕ>˜`œÊ “ˆÊ }Õ>À`œÊ m “iÌÌiÊÌÀ>˜µÕˆˆÌD]Êiˆ“ˆ˜>ʏ½ˆ“«i}˜œÊ`ˆÊ`œ‡ «>ÀÌiʈÊ`ˆÛˆi̜Ê`ˆÊ«œÀÌ>À>°Ê*iÀʓiÊmÊVœ“i ver the centuries, Capri has featured in thirty years, a watershed that marked the V iÊ>ÌÌÀ>ÛiÀÜʏ½>ÀÀi`>“i˜ÌœÊ`ˆÊV>ÃÃiÊÛ՜i Vœ“iÊÃiÊÀˆVœÀ`>ÃÈÊ՘ʫœ½Ê>˜V iʏՈÊ>ÌÌÀ>‡ ÛiÀÈÊÀ>`iÀiʜ}˜ˆÊ}ˆœÀ˜œÊˆ˜Ê՘>ÊÜVˆiÌDÊV i ՘œÊÃVÕ`œÊVœ˜ÊˆÊ«ÕLLˆVœ]ʜÌÀiÊV iÊ՘> books, photographs, paintings and films. beginning of his maturity, the time when it OBut there’s one means of communication becomes necessary to take on more v>ÀÊÀˆÛˆÛiÀiʏœÊëˆÀˆÌœÊ`ˆÊ>ï̈>Ê iÀˆœ°Ê ÛiÀÜʓiÊiʏ>ʓˆ>ÊL>ÀL>‚° VœÀÀiÊ}ˆDÊÌÀœ««œÊÛiœVi]ÊÃi˜â>ʓˆÊÃi˜ÌˆÀiˆ Vœ“œ`ˆÌDÊ «iÀV jÊ ˜œ˜Ê “ˆÊ v>Ê «iÀ`iÀi that is often forgotten: the body. It’s stitched responsibility in one’s life: “Before, I had a ˜ˆ«œÌiÊ`i½iViÌ̈V>Ê`œ˜˜>ÊÀ>VVœ˜Ì>ÊV i ->iÊiÊ«i«i]Ê՘ʫœ½ÊÀˆLiiÊiÊ՘ʫœ½ÊœÀ`ˆ˜>Ì>° ˜Õ`œÊVœ“iÊ՘Ê}>Ì̜ÊÃi˜â>Ê«iˆ°Ê i>ÊL>ÀL> Ìi“«œ°Ê œ˜ÊÀˆÕÃVˆÀiˆÊ«ˆÙÊ>ÊÀˆVœ˜œÃViÀ“ˆ onto the skin and tells the story of someone’s life moustache, but I looked like a policeman. Then, I without needing any explanation. And then there decided to let my beard grow for the sake of >ÊL>ÀL>ÊÃi}˜>ʈÊ“ˆœÊÀˆÌœÀ˜œÊ>ÊV>Ã>]Ê> 1˜Êii“i˜ÌœÊV iÊÀ>VV ˆÕ`iʏiÊ`ÕiÊ>˜ˆ“iÊ`ˆ Ûi`œÊˆLiÀÌDÊiÊÀiȏˆi˜â>Ê«iÀV jʘœ˜Êmʏi}>Ì> Ãi˜â>]ÊÀ>««ÀiÃi˜Ì>ʓiÊÃÌiÃÜÊiʵÕiœÊV i are those details that can tell you a bit more. The convenience. I didn’t want to spend time >«Àˆ]ʘi½Õ˜ˆVœÊ«œÃ̜Ê`œÛiʓˆÊÃi˜ÌœÊˆ‡ Franco Senesi]Ê՘Ê՜“œÊV iÊ`ˆÊ“iÃ̈iÀiÊv> >Ê`ˆÃVœÀÜÊ`ˆÊ«iÀvi∜˜i‚° v>VVˆœÊiʓˆÊ >Ê>VVœ“«>}˜>̜ʘiˆÊ“œ“i˜Ìˆ eyes, the hair, the beard. Yes, the beard. A shaving.” Tonino Cacace likes to take care of his feature that anticipates gestures and ways of beard himself: “I cut it every two or three days to LiÀœÊ`ˆÊiÃÃiÀiʓiÊÃÌiÃ܂°Ê*iÀÊi`iÀˆVœÊ> ˆÊ}>iÀˆÃÌ>ʓ>ÊVœ˜Ê՘ʫ>ÃÃ>̜Ê`>Ê>À̈ÃÌ>Êi iÊ ÃÕiÊ “>ˆœˆV iÊ `ˆÃÃi“ˆ˜>ÌiÊ Õ˜}œÊ i «ˆÙʈ“«œÀÌ>˜ÌˆÊ`i>ÊۈÌ>‚°Ê ʏ>ÊL>ÀL>Ê`ˆ doing things. For some, it represents wisdom, for keep it trim, but I’m the only one who can do it. L>ÀL>ÊmÊÃÌ>Ì>Ê՘>ÊÜÀ«ÀiÃ>ÊV iÊ >Ê`iVˆÃœÊ`ˆ vœÀÃiʘiÊV՜ÀiÊ>˜VœÀ>ʏœÊm°Ê>ÊL>ÀL>Ê >ÊVœ‡ ÃÌÀ>`iÊ`i½ˆÃœ>ʘiÊÀ>VVœ˜Ì>˜œÊˆÊÕœ} ˆÊi ՘Ê>À̈ÃÌ>Ê«œÀÌ>ÊÃi“«ÀiʏiÊÌÀ>VViÊ`iÊÃ՜ others a comfortable overcoat to flaunt against I’d never get rid of it: it’s part of my personality. conformism. Wearing one is a choice, an For me, a beard is partly a form of introspection, Ài}>>ÀȰʁœÊۈÃÃÕ̜ʫiÀʜÌÀiʵÕ>À>˜‡ “ˆ˜Vˆ>̜Ê>Ê«œÀÌ>À>Ê«Àœ«ÀˆœÊµÕ>˜`œÊ >Ê`i‡ iÊ ÌÀ>`ˆâˆœ˜ˆ°Ê +Õ>˜`œÊ VÀiœÊ vˆ}ÕÀiÊ “>‡ >ۜÀœÊ«iÀV jÊ`ˆViʁ
ÊۜÌiÊÃVœ«ÀœÊ«iâ∠affirmation of one’s personality, one’s profession. and I hope that it will bring me wisdom. If I were ̽>˜˜ˆÊÃi˜â>ÊL>ÀL>°Ê œ˜ÊÃ>«iۜÊVœ“iʓˆ VˆÃœÊ `ˆÊ ëœÃÌ>ÀÃˆÊ `>½>ÌÀ>Ê «>ÀÌiÊ `i> ÃV ˆˆ]Ê >˜˜œÊµÕ>ÈÊÃi“«Àiʏ>ÊL>ÀL>°ÊœÀÃi `ˆÊ>À}ˆ>ÊÌÀ>ʈʫiˆ‚°Ê˜Ãœ““>]ʏ>ÊÃÕ>Êmʓœ‡ Can this facial feature describe the spirit of a to talk to it as though it were something separate place and tell the story of the most famous island from me, I’d tell it not to stay completely white, ÃÌiÃÃi]ʘœ˜ÊVœ˜œÃViۜʏ>ÊÃÕ>ʏ>ÊvœÀ“>]ʘjʈ L>ÀÀˆV>Ì>]Ê`>ÊVœÕˆÊV iÊVÀi>Ê>ÀÌiÊ>ÊVՏ̜ÀiÊi ˆ˜Vœ˜Ã>«iۜ“i˜Ìi]Êۜ}ˆœÊ>ÃVˆ>ÀiʵÕ>‡ `i>Ì>ÊVœ“iÊ՘>Ê`iiʜ«iÀiÊ`½>ÀÌiÊV iʘ>‡ in the world? The past teaches us and always and to protect me when I need a bit of privacy, ÃVœ˜œÊ˜iÊÃ՜ʏ>LœÀ>̜Àˆœ°Ê comes up with the right answers: Francesco but that would be asking too much of it.” Spataro, the man who has contributed most to Vito Labianca lived for years in the Grotta
˜ÌÀœ«œœ}œÊ i`Ê iëiÀÌœÊ `ˆÊ Vœ“Õ˜ˆV>‡ the legend of the Capri fisherman, with his red dell’Arsenale, enjoying the fruits and beauties Da sinistra/From left: Franco Senesi, Mariano Della Corte, Sergio Rubino. beret, the pipe in his mouth and above all, his that the island offers. His beard also has ▼ ∜˜i]ÊMariano Della Corte “œÃÌÀ> ▼

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«Ài>ʵÕiÃ̜ʏœÊÃ>ÊLi˜i] VÀiÃVˆÕ̜ÊÌÀ>ÊvœÀLˆVˆÊiÊ«i˜˜iˆ°ÊœÊVœ“ˆ˜‡ “ˆœÊÌÀ>Ì̜Ê`ˆÃ̈˜ÌˆÛœ°Ê œ˜ÊÀˆÕÃVˆÀiˆÊ>Ê«Àˆ‡ ۈ>Ê`iÊ>ۜÀœ‚°Ê >ʏ>ÊL>ÀL>ÊmÊ՘ʫœ½Ê>˜V i `ˆÊVœÕˆÊV iʏ>Ê«œÀÌ>° ■ «iÀV jʜ}˜ˆÊ}ˆœÀ˜œÊÀˆ˜˜œÛ>ʏ>Êvˆ`ÕVˆ>Ê`iˆ Vˆ>̜Ê>Ê££Ê>˜˜ˆÊiÊ>Ê£ÎÊ}ˆDÊv>Viۜʏ>ÊL>ÀL>° Ã՜ˆÊVˆi˜Ìˆ°ÊՈÊVœ˜ÊiÊL>ÀLiÊVˆÊ«>À>]ʏiÊ>V‡ œÊˆ“«>À>̜Ê`>Ê«ˆÙʓ>iÃÌÀˆ]Ê«Àˆ“>ÊÀ>˜Vœ V>Àiââ>]ʏiÊÀ>ÃÃiÀi˜>]ʏiÊV>«ˆÃViÊVœ˜ÊˆÊ܏œ ˆœ>]Ê«œˆÊ >ÀœÊ À՘œÊiÊ ˆÕÃ>˜œ°Êœ ̜VVœÊ`iˆV>̜Ê`iiÊÃÕiʓ>˜ˆ°Ê>ۜÀ>ʘiÊÃ>‡ v>ÌÌœÊ >˜V iÊ Õ˜½iëiÀˆi˜â>Ê >Ê œ˜`À>°Ê ˜‡ œ˜iÊ`>ÊL>ÀL>Ê >ÀÌ ÕÈ>° ܓ“>]Ê œÊ Ãi}ÕˆÌœÊ Ì>˜ÌiÊ “>˜ˆÊ V iÊ “ˆ
««i˜>Êi˜ÌÀ>̈ÊÈÊV>«ˆÃViÊÃÕLˆÌœÊV iʘՏ>Êm >˜˜œÊ«iÀ“iÃÜÊ`ˆÊ>VµÕˆÃˆÀiʈÊ“ˆœÊ̜VVœ >ÃVˆ>̜Ê>ÊV>ܰʽ>˜ˆ“>Ê`iÊÕœ}œ]ʈÊL>À‡ «iÀܘ>i‚°Ê˜ÊµÕiÃÌ>ÊL>ÀLiÀˆ>ʈÊVˆi˜ÌiÊ > LˆiÀi]ʏ>ÊÃÕ>Ê`ˆÛˆÃ>]ʈÊLˆ>˜VœÊiʈÊ˜iÀœÊܘœ >ÊÃi˜Ã>∜˜iÊ`ˆÊۈÛiÀiÊ՘>ÊÛiÀ>ÊiÊ«Àœ«Àˆ> having is a sacred rite. A moment when time stops and commitments are forgotten, and ՘½>À“œ˜ˆ>Ê`ˆÊÃ̈iÊÀˆÃ«iVV ˆ>̜Ê>˜V iÊ`>‡ iëiÀˆi˜â>ʈ˜Ê՘ÊÌi“«ˆœÊ`ˆÊLiiââ>Ê`i`ˆV>̜ Sthe barber becomes a friend to whom you ½>ÀÀi`>“i˜ÌœÊ`i>ÊÃ>>°Ê iÌÌ>}ˆÊˆ˜Ê“iÌ>œ >>ÊVÕÀ>Ê`ˆÊÃj°Ê entrust part of yourself, perhaps the most important part. Armando Aprea knows this well, because every day he renews the trust of his customers. He speaks to beards, caresses them, calms them, understands them with just the delicate touch of his hands. He works in the Il rito della rasatura Carthusia barber shop. As soon as you go in, you its roots in the sea, embodying the purest and than that. For him, the beard is a bridge with his rid of it, even during my military service. So I The rite of shaving realise that nothing is left to chance. The spirit of most genuine aspect of the island. It’s white, and family, a bond with his great-grandfather, checked the regulations, and it doesn’t say the place, the barber, his uniform, the black and wild, reminiscent of the rocks of Capri, and it’s a because: “When I look at myself, it’s as though I anywhere that you can’t wear a beard. For me iÊ՘½>̓œÃviÀ>ÊV iÊ«œÀÌ>ʈ˜`ˆiÌÀœÊ˜iÊÌi“«œ ˆViÊ
À“>˜`œ\ʁÊÃÌ>̜ʈ“«œÀÌ>˜ÌiÊÀˆ«Ài˜‡ white is a harmony of style that’s also reflected in the furnishings. If you decide to indulge in a few hymn to the freedom of the spirit. The flakes of remember something of him, too, through me it’s like a shield from the public, as well as V ˆÊ`iVˆ`iÊ`ˆÊVœ˜Vi`iÀÈÊ>Ì̈“ˆÊ`ˆÊÀi>Ý°Ê> `iÀiʈÊ“œ`œÊÌÀ>`ˆâˆœ˜>iÊ`ˆÊv>Àiʏ>ÊL>ÀL>ÊVœ˜ sea salt trapped among its hairs, glitter like little and my beard.” being very convenient since it doesn’t waste minutes of relaxation there, you’ll find metal diamonds in the light of the sun. Vito has worn a Salt and pepper, a bit rebellious and a bit tidy. It’s time. I wouldn’t be able to recognize myself L>ÀLiÀˆ>ʘ>ÃViÊVˆÀV>Ê՘Ê>˜˜œÊv>Ê«iÀÊۜœ˜ÌD VÀi“iÊ«ÀiL>ÀL>]Ê`œ«œL>ÀL>]ʈ˜Ã>«œ˜>Ì>ÊV>Ç finishings and an atmosphere that takes you back beard since he was twenty, when he realised that something that encapsulates the two souls of without it now: it represents myself, and what I in time. The barber shop was set up about a year `ˆÊ-ˆÛˆœÊ,՜VVœ]Ê«Àœ«ÀˆiÌ>ÀˆœÊ`ˆÊ >ÀÌ ÕÈ>] ÈV>Êiʘ>ÌÕÀ>“i˜ÌiʈÊ«i˜˜iœ°Ê-ˆÊÕÃ>Ê՘ ago by Silvio Ruocco, owner of the historic Capri he wanted to be a free man, disobeying his Franco Senesi, a man who is an art dealer by do and has accompanied me through the most perfumes maison, Carthusia. As one of Armando’s father’s wishes and breaking the chains that trade, but who has been an artist in the past and important moments of my life.” And an artist’s >˜ÌˆV>ʓ>ˆÃœ˜Ê`ˆÊ«ÀœvՓˆÊV>«ÀiÈ°Ê «>˜˜iÌ̜ÊV>`œÊ«iÀÊ>““œÀLˆ`ˆÀiʏ>Ê«iiÊiÊÀˆ‡ customers, the idea came to him during one of his middle-class life imposed on him. He chose to let perhaps is still one at heart. He started wearing a beard always carries traces of his work, as he ˆi˜ÌiÊ`ˆÊ
À“>˜`œ]ÊiLLiʏ½ˆ`i>ÊÌÀ>Ê՘> >ÃÃ>À>]ʏ>ÊÈʓ>ÃÃ>}}ˆ>°Ê
˜V iʈÊÀ>܈œÊmÊ trims. “It was Silvio’s idea to bring me into this it grow as soon as he arrived on Capri: “It was the beard when he decided to cross to the other side points out: “I sometimes find pieces of clay project. He was already a customer of mine. Then I island environment: I felt truly myself, and I was of the barricade, going from someone who between the hairs.” You could say his beard has brought along the other customers that I’ve been immediately accepted by the community, who created art to being an art connoisseur and been modelled like the pieces of art produced looking after for over thirty years,” explains didn’t judge me for my beard. And when I lived in promoter. “The beard was a sign that I wanted to in his workshop. Armando, ‘the barber of Capri’. He grew up among the Arsenale, the tourists were fascinated to see start a new path. And it gave me a more mature Anthropologist and communications expert, scissors and brushes. “I started when I was 11, and my heavily bearded face. The beard represents look when I went to job interviews. It wasn’t easy Mariano Della Corte, has a youthful beard that’s by 13 I was already shaving people. I learned from my personality and protects my face: if it could to find the right length: I had to experiment with full of life, but retains its owner’s reflective spirit. “I several teachers, first Franco Niola, then Carlo talk to me, it would tell me I’m fantastic!” it. First, I just had a goatee; then I decided to let began to let it grow when I was at secondary Bruno and Chiusano. I also got some experience in A rediscovery of oneself and one’s origins. That’s it grow uniformly. Having a beard and stroking it school. Partly to hide myself, partly to affirm my London. So I’ve watched many people’s hands, the meaning of the beard for Federico Alvarez makes you feel calm, and takes away the need to personality. Over time it has become my distinctive and that has enabled me to acquire my own , the entrepreneur who hopes to bring shave every day in a society that is already racing feature. I could never get rid of it, because it de Toledo personal touch. In this barber shop, the customer the spirit of Laetitia Cerio to life in elegant along at breakneck speed; without it, I’d feel reflects my character: I observe things in the gets the feeling that they are undergoing a genuine furnishings. The grandson of this versatile lady naked, like a cat without fur. For me, a beard world, but I don’t go in for self-observation.” The experience in a temple of beauty, dedicated to tells us: “The beard marks my return home, to represents freedom and resilience, because it beard is also a way of caring about yourself and personal care. As Armando says: “It was Capri, the only place where I feel free to be isn’t linked to the business of being perfect. about situations. “I wore a full beard during my important to go back to the traditional way of myself.” For Federico, the beard was a surprise Majolica works by ceramics craftsman Sergio long stay in Berlin, but now it’s tidier, partly shaving, with the pre-shave cream, aftershave, that he decided to make himself a present of. “I Rubino are scattered around the streets of the because of my work.” But his beard has an classic lathering and, of course, the brush. You lived for over forty years without a beard. I didn’t island, describing its places and traditions. element of anticonformism, too: “Wearing it means use a warm cloth to soften and relax the skin, and know how it would look on me, I didn’t know the “When I create male figures, they nearly always that in some way you don’t want to homogenize you massage it. The razor is important, too; in fact shape or colour it would be. It was a novelty, just have beards. Perhaps unconsciously, I want to yourself, and the action of shaving in itself implies it may be the true protagonist of this ritual. It’s a like arriving on Capri.” And he has a regular date leave something of myself in every work.” His giving yourself a form and a position.” ritual made up of unmistakeable, expert actions, with his beard every Friday morning. “It’s the time words reveal his relationship with his beard. “It So in a way, clothes make the man, and the transformed here into a much sought-after I set apart for pampering this part of myself. has lived with me since I was 17, even before I beard preserves the intimate essence of the moment of well-being, that caresses and soothes. Without it, I’d feel naked.” But there’s more to it was called up to the navy. I didn’t want to get person wearing it. ■ Even the toughest of beards. ■ (M.D’A.)

132 133 [Capritudine]

photos Raffaele Lello Mastroianni Raffaele photos Uno stato mentale A state of mind

L’ISOLA BRULICANTE e catalogare e numerare le isole è un progetto ambizioso tanto L’isola, i suoi luoghi, la sua storia fatta di un incredibile, quanto il tentativo di classificare le diversità della natura umana, piccolo mondo brulicante di vita nella più pura certo è che solo una può chiamarsi azzurra e non ha eguali nel tradizione dei wimmelbuch, i libri tedeschi generalmente rivolti ai più piccoli. E sono infatti due nomi tedeschi a Smondo. Quell’isola è Capri. firmare Capri amore mio! (16 euro): Andreas Ganther, Con una superficie di 10,36 chilometri quadrati e un perimetro costiero specializzato in questo genere di illustrazione e Stefanie di circa 17 chilometri non è troppo grande, ma neppure troppo piccola Sonnentagh, giornalista, storica dell’arte e germanista tant’è che sul suo territorio ospita due Comuni. È da sempre sinonimo di che da vent’anni vive tra Napoli e Capri, e che del colorato volume è ideatrice e curatrice. Sfogliarlo è una doppio perché offre tutto e il contrario di tutto. Mondanità e spiritualità, ginnastica per gli occhi che si perdono dietro i tanti mare e montagna, flora e fauna, e ogni cosa è unica nel proprio genere. personaggi e i mille dettagli che sono i veri protagonisti Eppure anche Capri, in quanto isola, è sinonimo di una particolare con- delle tavole che lo compongono. Il breve testo è relegato dizione esistenziale di appartenenza e contemporaneamente di isola- nell’ultima pagina mentre delle icone che circondano le tavole ci aiutano a riconoscere personaggi, noti e meno mento tipica di chi su un’isola, grande o piccola che sia, vi è nato. È un noti, che danno vita a questa isola un po’ fantastica fatta sentimento difficile da descrivere, eppure forte dentro ogni isolano e i ca- di storie che si intrecciano e si reinventano. presi non ne sono immuni. E non conta il fatto che l’isola azzurra sia da welcome! sempre meta di intellettuali, artisti e viveur, o miraggio di uno stile di VISIT THE TEEMING ISLAND The island, its places and its history, vita eccentrico e fuori dal comune perché isola è soprattutto uno stato GET TO KNOW consisting of an incredible small mentale che alterna attaccamento viscerale alla propria terra e forza pro- world teeming with life in the pure

pulsiva verso l’allontanamento. ▼ EXPERIENCE tradition of the wimmelbuch, the German books generally aimed at children. And there are two German THE ISLAND names on the cover of Capri amore mio! (16 euros): Andreas Ganther, a specialist in this type of illustration, OF CAPRI and Stefanie Sonnentagh, journalist, art historian and specialist in German culture, who has There are many ways to discover the beauty of Capri. lived in Naples and Capri for the last twenty years, and who One of these is Kaire Arte had the idea for the book and edited it. Flicking through the Capri. Not a traditional tour pages is a kind of gymnastics for the eyes, as they lose guide but an association of themselves among all the characters and myriad details young professionals, experts that are the real stars of the pictures that make up the in the field of Cultural book. The short text is relegated to the last page, while the Heritage, who offer a new way to learn about the island icons surrounding the illustrations help us to recognize the and its historical natural characters, well-known or not so well-known, that animate and archaeologic heritage. what is something of a fantasy island, made up of stories that intertwine and reinvent themselves. F. Cassiano de Silva - Capri, 1698. kaireartecapri.it 135 [Capritudine]

REALE O FANTASTICA REAL OR IMAGINARY L’isola è approdo ma anche partenza, un luogo The island is where the boat lands, but also where it fisico ma anche simbolico. È impossibile departs from, a place that is physical but also symbolic. da catalogare e allo stesso tempo difficile It’s impossible to categorize and, at the same time, da individuare. Il tema isolano è ambivalente difficult to identify its distinctive features. The subject of e sfuggente, e forse anche per questo islands is ambivalent and elusive, and perhaps this is così affascinante. Da sempre. also what makes it so fascinating. As it always has been. Nelle pagine di Intorno all’Isola (La Conchiglia In the pages of Intorno all’Isola (La Conchiglia Edizioni), Edizioni), Riccardo Esposito accompagna Riccardo Esposito accompanies the reader into a il lettore nella percezione del valore ideale perception of the ideal significance of islands as well as dell’isola e in quello più concreto. Il libro, infatti, è sì their more concrete aspect. As the subtitle explains, the un manuale teorico-pratico sul tema insulare, come spiega book is a manual of theory and practice on the topic of il sottotitolo, ma è soprattutto il tentativo di far comprendere tutte islands, but it is above all an attempt to explain all the various le varie nature delle isole. «La “forma” di riferimento dell’isola qualities of islands. So the key “shape” of the island is a circle, a è quindi, il cerchio, un perimetro conchiuso; ma allo stesso tempo, closed perimeter; but at the same time, by contrast, the island is a per contrapposizione, l’isola è un luogo sacro aperto al passaggio sacred place that is open to transit and osmosis, not only of e all’osmosi non solo tra nature diverse ma anche different natures but also of different peoples and cultures.” tra popoli e culture». The book takes a journey through island literature, with extracts Il libro è anche un viaggio nella letteratura, con alcuni stralci from some of the most famous authors who have written about dei più famosi autori che hanno scritto di isole, reali islands, whether real or imaginary, but it is also a return to a theme o fantastiche, ma anche un ritorno a un tema tanto caro all’autore that is very dear to the author, a celebration of his own island per celebrare le proprie origini isolane, per la precisione capresi. origins, or more precisely his Capri origins.

Capri cambia seguendo il ritmo delle sta- dentro ogni caprese così come, anche se playboys, or a mirage of an eccentric and unusual lifestyle, because the island is gioni e così cambiano i suoi abitanti. È in maniera differente, dentro ogni per- above all a state of mind that alternates nei mesi invernali che si percepisce mag- sona che porta Capri nel cuore. ■ between a visceral attachment to one’s land and a strong impulse to get away giormente quella sensazione in cui lo f cataloguing and enumerating all the from it. spazio sembra mutato così come i colori, islands is as ambitious a project as the Capri changes according to the rhythms of attempt to classify the diversity of human i suoni e gli odori. I capresi si riappro- I the seasons and its inhabitants change nature, one thing is certain: there’s only one with it. It’s in the winter months that you priano dell’isola che per la gran parte island that can call itself blue – “the azure feel most strongly that sensation in which dell’anno condividono con persone pro- isle” – and it is without equal in the world. the spaces seem to have changed along That island is Capri. with the colours, sounds and smells. The venienti da tutto il mondo. La costa è With a surface area of 10.36 square Capresi take back their island that for so lontana, anche se visibile. Il mare che kilometres and a coastal perimeter of much of the year they share with people about 17 kilometres, it is not very big, but from all over the world. The coast is far circonda allo stesso tempo unisce e divide nor is it very small: in fact, it has two town away, even though still visible. The sea that e a volte capita di rimanere isolati e non councils within its territory. It has always surrounds it, unites and divides at the been synonymous with double, because it same time and sometimes you can be cut poter raggiungere l’approdo. Il frastuono offers everything and the opposite of off or unable to land. della moltitudine è lontano e il silenzio everything. Worldliness and spirituality, The hubbub of the crowd is far away and sea and mountains, flora and fauna, and silence leaves no escape, forcing you to non lascia scampo e costringe all’intro- everything is unique of its kind. And yet introspection. It is at such moments that spezione. È in questi momenti che lo spi- Capri, too, as an island, is synonymous the spirit chafes at the bit and wants to with a particular existential condition of escape from the island, open to the rito scalpita e vorrebbe fuggire dall’isola belonging, and at the same time isolation, vastness of the sea and yet closed, aperta sulla vastità del mare, eppure that is typical of anyone born on an island, stretching out towards the mainland and be it large or small. It’s a feeling that’s yet far away. chiusa. Protesa verso la terraferma eppure difficult to describe, yet that is very strong You can stay or escape, go and come back lontana. in every islander, and the people of Capri a thousand times, but the island will always are no exception. It doesn’t matter that Si può restare o fuggire, andare e tornare remain within every Capri native, just as, in the azure isle has always been the a different way, it remains within everyone mille volte, ma l’isola resterà per sempre destination of intellectuals, artists and who has Capri in their heart. ■

136 [La mostra]

Una delle foto firmate Luigi Ghirri in a guiding thread that runs through the history of Capri. It’s a history che saranno in mostra a Capri. that goes hand in hand with the history of the Mediterranean, for La One of the photos by Luigi Ghirri Capri is one of the most beautiful pearls of that sea. The photographs stagione that will be on exhibition in Capri. taken on the island and of the island are actually part of a larger project that included photographs of Puglia and Porto Recanati, The season Ponza, Trieste and Venice, and together with the photographs of of the sea the Romagnola Riviera and the Marche coast from the 1970s, they del mare offer a 360-degree fresco of the Mediterranean sea. Stupore e meraviglia emergono da queste Wonder and amazement emerge from these photographs, because fotografie, perché anche le cose più semplici Luigi Ghirri was moved by even the simplest of things, and he tried, di Silvia Baldassarre erano capaci di emozionare Luigi Ghirri che through his art, to transmit the same sensations to even the least observant of viewers, giving everyone the chance to see and feel the con la sua arte ha tentato di trasmettere le places and things that he himself saw and felt. ■ sue stesse sensazioni anche agli osserva- tori meno attenti, dando la possibilità a LUIGI GHIRRI uno strumento per sintetizzare reare una casa delle stagioni per allestire mostre dedi- tutti di vedere e percepire i luoghi e le cose i poliedrici interessi e un particolarissimo punto di vista cate alla primavera, all’estate, all’autunno e all’inverno come lui stesso vedeva e percepiva. ■ dentro e oltre le cose. per il piacere di stabilire una relazione tra il tempo uigi Ghirri’s dream was to create a Born in 1943, in the province della natura e il tempo dell’arte, questo era il sogno di Luigi C house of seasons to stage exhibitions of Reggio Emilia, Luigi Ghirri Ghirri, un progetto che una morte prematura avvenuta nel 1992 Ldedicated to spring, summer, autumn completed his professional a soli 49 anni, ha lasciato incompiuto. scenario che si sta osservando. I Faraglioni e l’Arco naturale, il and winter, for the pleasure of establishing a relationship between the training during a period of great rhythms of nature and the rhythms of art, but his premature death in historical and cultural ferment. L’idea di fotografia che aveva Ghirri era del tutto particolare. Monte Solaro e la Certosa di San Giacomo, così come Villa San 1992, at the age of only 49, meant that the project remained unfinished. Nato nel 1943 in provincia di The post-war period and the L’obiettivo era utilizzato come mezzo attraverso il quale entrare Michele e Marina Piccola sono frammenti di memoria che uni- Ghirri had a very particular idea of photography. The lens was used Reggio Emila, Luigi Ghirri desire to rebuild that he as a means by which he could enter into things and go beyond them, compie la sua formazione in un experienced in close contact with nelle cose e oltrepassarle, come metafora di un viaggio. Ecco al- scono il presente al passato seguendo il fil rouge della storia ca- like a metaphor for a journey. And so the images that arose from his periodo storico e culturale di the group of Modena intellectuals lora che dalle visite a Napoli e Capri agli inizi degli anni Ottanta, prese. Una storia che va di pari passo con quella del Mediterraneo visits to Naples and Capri at the beginning of the 1980s still touch the grande fermento. Il dopoguerra made him a sensitive observer scaturirono le immagini che ancora oggi toccano il cuore di chi di cui Capri è una delle perle più belle. Le fotografie scattate sul- hearts of those who look at them. The legendary places on the azure e la voglia di ricostruzione of both social context and isle become stages in a pathway, a journey in fact, that go beyond vissuti a stretto contatto con il landscape. In the years from the le osserva. I luoghi mitici dell’isola azzurra diventano infatti le l’isola e all’isola, infatti, fanno parte di un più ampio progetto in mere postcard images of the landscape, blending and mingling gruppo di intellettuali 1970s to the 1990s, photography tappe di un percorso, un viaggio appunto, che va oltre l’immagine cui rientrano gli scatti della Puglia e di Porto Recanati, di Ponza, instead with the painting and literature of the genre. Stereotypes give modenesi lo resero sensibile was for Ghirri a tool for del paesaggio da cartolina ma piuttosto si fonde e si confonde con Trieste e Venezia, che insieme a quelli realizzati sulla riviera ro- way to the feeling that you are surrounded and immersed in the scene osservatore sia del contesto synthesizing his many different you are looking at. The Faraglioni and the Arco Naturale, Monte Solaro sociale sia del paesaggio. La interests with a very particular la pittura e la letteratura di genere. Gli stereotipi lasciano il posto magnola e sulla costa marchigiana negli anni Settanta danno un and the Certosa di San Giacomo, the Villa San Michele and Marina fotografia fu per lui, tra gli anni point of view that penetrates into alla sensazione di trovarsi circondati e immersi in quello stesso affresco a tutto tondo del mare nostrum. Piccola are all fragments of memory, joining the present with the past Settanta e gli anni Novanta, and beyond things. Dove e quando

Il Museo Cassa Rossa di Anacapri ospita l’ottava edizione del Festival di fotografia organizzato dalla Fondazione Capri. Protagonisti della rassegna sono gli scatti che Luigi Ghirri fece a Capri tra il 1980 e il 1981, cui si af- fiancano alcune fotografie che ritraggono i più bei paesaggi italiani. La mo- stra - curata da Gianluca Riccio e Arianna Rosica, in collaborazione con l’associazione Il Rosaio - si inserisce nel più ampio progetto del Festival del Paesaggio organizzato sull’isola da maggio a ottobre.

Where and when. The Museo Cassa Rossa in Anacapri is hosting the eighth edition of the Photography Festival organized by the Fondazione Capri. The exhibition will feature photographs that Luigi Ghirri took on Capri between 1980 and 1981, along with other photographs depicting the most beautiful Italian landscapes.The exhibition - curated by Gianluca Riccio and Arianna Rosica, in collaboration with the Il Rosaio association - is part of the larger project of the Festival of Landscape, organized on the island from May to October.

Dal 31 luglio al 30 settembre - Museo Casa Rossa, Anacapri dalle ore 10.00 alle 13.30 e dalle 17.30 alle 20.00 - Chiuso il lunedì

138 139 [Capritudine]

Lo specchio salato Un magico blu che riflette e amplifica la bellezza dell’isola. Tra frammenti di luce, di Antonello De Nicola

foto di Raffaele Lello Mastroianni incontri e seduzioni

Õ>Ãˆ>ÈÊÀ>}ˆœ˜iÊ̈Ê>LLˆ>ÊVœ˜`œÌ̜Êvˆ˜œÊ>ʵՈ]Ê`ˆ“i˜ÌˆV>>\ÊÃiˆÊ>««Àœ‡ `>̜ʘiÊÕœ}œÊ«ˆÙÊÃiÛ>}}ˆœ]ÊÃ>VÀœÊiÊ>“Lˆ}՜ʓ>ˆÊۈÈÌ>̜° /ÕÌ̈Ê}ˆÊˆÃœ>˜ˆÊÈÊÀˆVœ˜œÃVœ˜œÊ`>ÊÃi“«Ài]ÊÃi˜â>ÊiÃÃiÀÈʓ>ˆÊˆ˜Vœ˜ÌÀ>̈° Q-œ˜œÊ˜>̈ÊÃՏ½ˆÃœ>Ê`œÛiÊ>˜`>ÀiÊÈÊ`ˆViÊVœ˜ÊœÊÃ}Õ>À`œÊiÊL>ÃÌ>ÊV ˆÕ`iÀiÊ}ˆÊœVV ˆÊ«iÀ ̜À˜>Ài°Ê
ÊÛi`iÀÈ]ÊÈÊÃ>ÕÌ>˜œÊVœ˜Ê`iۜ∜˜iʓ>ʘiˆÊÀˆviÃÈÊ`iiÊÛiÌÀˆ˜iʈ““>}ˆ˜>˜œ ˆ˜ÌÀˆ} ˆÊiÊVœ“«œÌ̈]ÊVœ˜ÛiÀÃ>∜˜ˆÊ>ÊÌÀ>“œ˜ÌœÊiÊV>Àiââiʘi½œÃVÕÀˆÌD° "}˜ˆÊÃiÀ>ʈ˜Ê*ˆ>ââiÌÌ>]ÊÌÀ>ÊV ˆÊÈÊ>VV>V>ÊÜÌ̜ʈÊÌi˜`œ˜iÊ`iÊL>ÀʜÊÜÃÌ>Ê>`Ê>ÃVœÌ>Àiʏ> L>˜`>]ÊÈÊVœ˜ÃՓ>˜œÊˆ˜Vœ˜ÌÀˆÊiÊÃi`Õ∜˜ˆ]ÊVœœµÕˆÊˆ˜Ìˆ“ˆÊˆ˜ÊV>ˆVˆÊÃVˆ˜Ìˆ>˜Ìˆ°Ê-i˜â> «iÀ¢ÊV iÊVˆÊÈÊÃvˆœÀˆÊVœ˜Ê՘Ê`ˆÌœ]ʵÕ>ÈÊÃi˜â>Ê}Õ>À`>ÀÈ]Ê«iÀV jʏ½ˆÃœ>ÊmÊ՘>ÊÛiÀ}ˆ˜iÊV i `ˆÊ˜œÌÌiÊÈÊëiVV ˆ>ʘiÊ“>Ài]Ê>LL>˜`œ˜>Ì>ʘiˆÊÜëˆÀˆÊ`iˆÊÃ՜ˆÊ`i“œ˜ˆÊ>“>˜Ìˆ° œÊëiVV ˆœÊÃ>>̜Ê>“«ˆvˆV>ʏ>ÊLiiââ>Ê`iˆÊÃ՜ˆÊˆ˜i>“i˜ÌˆÊ“>]Ê>œÊÃÌiÃÜÊÌi“«œ] ˆÊÀˆ˜˜i}>]ʜ««œ˜i˜`œÃˆÊ>>ÊÛ>˜ˆÌDÊ`ˆÊ՘ÊV>«œ>ۜÀœÊˆ“ˆÌ>̜°ÊiÊ`Õiʈ““>}ˆ˜ˆ

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140 141 [Capritudine] THE REVEALING MIRROR

A magical blue that reflects and enhances the beauty of the island. With shimmering light, encounters and temptations

by Antonello De Nicola photos by Raffaele Lello Mastroianni

hatever reason brought you here, forget it: you have landed in the W wildest, most sacred, most ambiguous place you’ve ever visited. All the islanders have always recognized each other, without ever having met. They were born on the island where you say you’re going with a glance and you just need to close your eyes to come back. When they meet, they greet each other affectionately, but in the reflections in the shop windows they imagine intrigues and plots, conversations at sunset and caresses in the dark. Every evening in the Piazzetta, the people who crowd under the awning of the bar or stop to listen to the band, engage in encounters, seductions and intimate conversations amid sparkling glasses. But it all takes place without even brushing fingers, almost without looking at each other, because the island is a virgin reflected in the sea at night, abandoned to the sighs of her demon lovers. The revealing mirror enhances the beauty of her features but, at the same time, disowns them, refusing the vanity of imitating a masterpiece. The twin images coexist in the mirror but not openly: every phantom island is a story of misunderstandings, freedom and oppression. So not everything that appears on the island mÊ՘>ÊÃ̜Àˆ>Ê`ˆÊ“>ˆ˜ÌiÈ]Ê`ˆÊˆLiÀÌDÊiÊ`ˆ “œ˜Ì>}˜>ʜLˆµÕ>Êi`ʈÊ«ÀœvՓœÊˆ˜Ìi˜Ãœ above ground, is identical in the reflected island, yet the one inevitably ends up resembling the œ««ÀiÃȜ˜ˆ°Ê `ˆÊ ˆ“œ˜ˆ]Ê }ˆ˜iÃÌÀiÊ iÊ ÀœÃ“>Àˆ˜œ]Ê ˜iœ other. The changes in the landscape of the œ˜ÊÌÕÌ̜ÊVˆ¢ÊV iÊÈʓ>˜ˆviÃÌ>ʘi½ˆÃœ>ʈ˜ ëiVV ˆœÊ`½>VµÕ>Ê`ˆÊ >Àˆ˜>Ê*ˆVVœ>ÊÈÊÌÀ>‡ former are broken up in the latter, but in passing from one reflection to another, feelings become ÃÕ«iÀvˆVˆi]Ê`՘µÕi]ÊmÊȓ“iÌÀˆVœÊ˜i½ˆÃœ> ÃvœÀ“>ʘi>ÊÜVˆiÌDÊ>>}>Ì>ÊV iʇÊ>ÃÃi‡ complete. No one can say which of the two ëiVV ˆ>Ì>]Êi««ÕÀiÊvˆ˜ˆÃViʈ˜iۈÌ>Lˆ“i˜Ìi `ˆ>Ì>Ê`>ÊViÀV ˆ]Ê}œVViÊiÊ«iââˆÊ`ˆÊÛiÌÀœÊ‡ÊÈ islands really exists: the one that appears upside down or the one that dissolves in a dream. «iÀÊܓˆ}ˆ>Ài°ÊÊV>“Lˆ>“i˜ÌˆÊ«>iÃ>}}ˆÃ̈Vˆ ÌÕvv>Ê`>œÊ-Vœ}ˆœÊ`iiÊ-ˆÀi˜i]ÊÌÀ>ʈÊvœ˜‡ This rock-bound community – protected by Nessuno reassuring rows of tiled roofs, trees and stones – No one can say which `i>Ê«Àˆ“>ÊÈÊÃVœ“«œ˜}œ˜œÊ˜i>ÊÃiVœ˜`> `>ˆÊiʈÊ}ˆ>À`ˆ˜ˆÊV>«œÛœÌˆ]ʈÊÃi˜ÌˆiÀˆÊˆ˜ climbs up Monte Solaro, between the towers and of the two islands può dirti “>ʈÊÃi˜Ìˆ“i˜Ìˆ]ʘiÊ«>ÃÃ>}}ˆœÊ`>Ê՘ÊÀˆÛiÀ‡ vÕ}>ÊiʈÊÀÕÃViˆÊÓ>ÀÀˆÌˆ°Ê Ê>˜V iʈÊVˆiœ flowering myrtle, the sloping mountain and intense really exists LiÀœÊ>½>ÌÀœ]ÊÈÊVœ“«iÌ>˜œ°Ê iÃÃ՘œÊ«Õ¢ «ÀiVˆ«ˆÌ>° scent of lemon trees, broom and rosemary. In the quale delle expanse of water at Marina Piccola it turns into the `ˆÀ̈ʵÕ>iÊ`iiÊ`Õiʈ܏iÊiÈÃÌ>Ê`>ÛÛiÀœ]ÊÌÀ> 1˜>ÊV>À̜ˆ˜>ÊÀˆVœÀ`>ÊVœ“iÊiÀ>ʵÕiÊ«>‡ mirrored society that – beset by circles, droplets µÕi>ÊV iÊ>««>ÀiÊV>«œÛœÌ>ÊiʵÕi>ÊV iÊÃÛ>‡ ˜œÀ>“>Ê«Àˆ“>Ê`ˆÊˆ˜}ˆ>ˆÀi\ʏ>ÊÃÌiÃÃ>Ê«ˆ>⇠and splinters of glass – dives from the Scoglio due isole esista delle Sirene into the depths of the sea, among the ˜ˆÃViʈ˜Ê՘ÊÜ}˜œ°Ê âiÌÌ>ʓ>ÊVœ˜Ê՘>Ê}>ˆ˜>Ê>Ê«œÃ̜Ê`ˆÊ՘> inverted gardens, vanishing paths and lost >ÊVœ“Õ˜ˆÌDÊÀœVVˆœÃ>ÊV iʇʫÀœÌiÌÌ>Ê`>Ê՘ “>˜˜iµÕˆ˜]Ê >Àˆ˜>ÊÀ>˜`iʓ>ÊVœ˜Ê}ˆ streams. Even the sky itself plunges downwards. A postcard reminds us what that panorama was DAVVERO Àˆ«iÌiÀÈÊÀ>ÃÈVÕÀ>˜ÌiÊ`ˆÊÌi}œi]Ê>LiÀˆÊi >ȘiˆÊ>Ê«œÃ̜Ê`iˆÊÌ>݈]ʏ>ÊÃÌÀ>`ˆ˜>ʈ“‡ like before it yellowed with age: the same Piazzetta «ˆiÌÀiʇÊÈÊ>ÀÀ>“«ˆV>ÊÃÕÊ œ˜ÌiÊ-œ>Àœ]ÊÌÀ> «œÛiÀ>Ì>ʓ>ÊVœ˜Ê՘ÊV ˆœÃV iÌ̜Ê>Ê«œÃ̜ but with a hen instead of a top model, Marina Grande with donkeys instead of taxis, the dusty ▼ iÊ̜ÀÀˆÊiÊ}ˆÊ>LiÀˆÊ`ˆÊ“ˆÀ̜ʈ˜ÊvˆœÀˆÌÕÀ>]ʏ> `iÊ˜ˆ} Ì°Ê1˜>ÊL>“Lˆ˜>ÊV iÊ«>ÃÃi}‡ road with a kiosk instead of the night club. ▼

142 143 [Capritudine]

}ˆ>Ê Vœ˜Ê V>««iœÊ iÊ «>À>܏i]Ê `œÛiÊ œÀ> «iÀviÌÌ>Ê`ˆÊ“ˆiÊ«œÃÈLˆˆÊˆÃœi\Ê՘Ê}œââœÊV i ½ˆÃœ>]ÊÀˆ`œÌÌ>ʈ˜ÊvÀ>““i˜ÌˆÊ`ˆÊÕVi]ÊÀˆÛi> VˆiœÊiÊëÀœvœ˜`>ʘi½>LˆÃÜ]Êmʏ½ˆÃœ>Ê`ˆ ۜÌœÊœ}˜ˆÊ}ˆœÀ˜œ]ʓi˜ÌÀiʈÊÛi˜ÌœÊVœ˜‡ ˆÊ ÈVÕÀœ]Ê «ÀiÃÌœÊ œÊ Ì>À`ˆ]Ê Ã>ˆÊ `ˆÊ iÃÃiÀi ÜÀ}iʏ>ÊVˆ“ˆ˜ˆiÀ>Ê`i>ÊVi˜ÌÀ>i°Ê1˜Ê«i‡ i˜ÌÀ>Ê i˜Ì>“i˜ÌiÊ ˆ˜Ê ՘>Ê «œââ>˜} iÀ>]Ê ˆ ˆÊ“ˆÃÌiÀˆœÃœÊi}>“iÊÌÀ>ʏ>ʘ>ÌÕÀ>ʜÃÃiÀÛ>Ì> >«Àˆ\ʈÊ«>iÃ>}}ˆœÊˆ˜ÛˆÃˆLˆiÊV iÊVœ˜`ˆ‡ `ÕViÊ>Ê/À>}>À>ÊVi˜iÀˆÊ`ˆÊVˆÛˆÌDÊۈVˆ˜iÊi }ˆÕ˜ÌœÊˆ˜Ê՘ʏ՜}œÊV iÊ«Õ¢ÊiÃÃiÀiÊ >«ÀˆÊœ ÃV>̜ÀiÊV iÊVÕViʏ>ÊÃÕ>ÊÀiÌi]ʓi˜ÌÀiʜÀ> VˆiœÊV iÊ«ÀiVˆ«ˆÌ>ʘiœÊëiVV ˆœÊ`iÊv>Àœ] iʏ½i“œâˆœ˜iÊ«ÀœÛ>Ì>°Ê˜ÊµÕiÃÌ>ÊÛiÀ̈}ˆ˜iÊ>⇠∜˜>ʵÕiœÊۈÈLˆi]ʈÊLœÀ}œÊ`ˆÀˆÌ̜ÊÃՏ œ˜Ì>˜i°Ê ՘>ÊÃi“«ˆViʈ`i>ÊV iʜ}˜ˆÊۈ>}}ˆ>̜ÀiÊ > >ÊÀiÌiÊmÊ՘ʓœÃ>ˆVœÊ`ˆÊÀ>}˜>Ìii°Ê1˜Ê}>L‡ ˆÊV>“«>˜ˆiÊÃVœ“«œÃ̜ʈ˜Ê}œVViÊ`ˆÊ«ˆœ}}ˆ>] âÕÀÀ>]ÊV iÊÃi“LÀ>ÊVœ˜`ÕÀ̈Ê>ÌÀœÛiÊÃi˜â>ÊiÇ “>ÀiÊV iʈ˜vÕi˜â>ʵÕiœÊÀœÛiÃVˆ>̜ʘi ʏ՜} ˆÊܘœÊ“iÃVœ>̈]Ê«iÀV jÊ >«ÀˆÊm `ˆÊ >«ÀˆÊœÊ՘½>ÌÀ>ʈ܏>ÊV iÊ«iÀÊV>ÜʏiÊ܇ Lˆ>˜œÊVœ˜ÊiÊ«ˆÕ“iÊL>}˜>ÌiÊV iÊ`ˆ«ˆ˜}i >ʏ>“>ÊV iÊÀˆviÌÌiʏ>ʓ>˜œÊ`i½>À̈}ˆ>˜œ] ÃiÀVˆÊ“>ˆÊÃÌ>̜]ÊÜ«À>ÛۈÛiʈÊvœÃȏiÊ`i½ˆÃœ> “>Ài]ʏ½œÀˆâ✘ÌiÊV iÊVœ˜Ìˆi˜iʏiÊv>VVˆ>Ìi œÛ՘µÕi\ʘœ˜Ê̈ʈ˜ÌiÀiÃÃ>Ê«ˆÙÊÃ>«iÀiÊ`œÛi “ˆ}ˆ>ÊiÊV iÊ̈ʫiÀ“iÌÌiÊ`ˆÊV>«ˆÀi]Ê>ÌÌÀ>‡ ½>ÀVœL>i˜œ° œÊëiVV ˆiÌ̜ÊV iÊ>ÃÃ>«œÀ>ʏ>ÊLœVV>Ê`i> “œ˜Õ“i˜Ì>i°Ê `iiÊV>Ãiʓ>Ê>˜V iʏiÊv>VViÊ`i}ˆÊˆÃœ>˜ˆ° ÈÊÌÀœÛ>ʓ>ÊÃiÊv՜ÀˆÊ`>½ˆÃœ>ÊiÈÃÌiÊ>˜VœÀ> ÛiÀÜÊVˆ¢ÊV iÊmÊ`ˆÛi˜Ì>Ì>]ʵÕi>ÊV iÊ՘> iÊ`ÕiÊ>˜ˆ“iÊ`i½ˆÃœ>]Ê`ˆÃÌ>˜ÌˆÊ˜iÊÌi“«œ chanteuse]ʏ>ÊÛiÌÀˆ˜iÌÌ>ÊV iÊÌÀ>Ì̈i˜iʏiÊ>“‡ *iÀÊ/ˆLiÀˆœ]ÊiÊ«iÀÊÌÕÌ̈Ê}ˆÊ՜“ˆ˜ˆÊV iʘiˆ /ÕÌ̈ʈÊV>«ÀiÃˆÊ >˜˜œÊ՘ÊÜÈ>Êvi`ii]Ê՘ µÕ>VœÃ>°Ê˜Êvœ˜`œ]ÊÃiÊ >«ÀˆÊ̈ÊÃi“LÀ>ÊVœÃŒ ۜÌ>ÊiÀ>Ê >«Àˆ° “>ʈ˜V>Ã̜˜>Ìiʈ˜Ê՘Ê>˜iœÊVœ“iÊVÀˆÃÌ>ˆ Lˆâˆœ˜ˆÊ`i>ÊÌÕÀˆÃÌ>]ʏiʘÕۜiÊV iÊ}>i}‡ ÃiVœˆÊÈÊܘœÊ“œÌˆ«ˆV>̈ʘiÊÃ՜ʘœ“i] `œ««ˆœÊˆ˜}>˜˜iۜiÊiÊ՘ʫiVV>̜ÊiÃi“‡ ˆ˜Vœ“«Ài˜ÃˆLˆiÊmÊ«Àœ«ÀˆœÊ«iÀV jÊmÊÀˆ“>ÃÌ>
œÊëiVV ˆœ]Ê«iÀÊÃi˜ÌˆÀÈÊ՘ˆVˆÊLˆÃœ}˜> ëi˜`i˜Ìˆ]ÊÈʈ˜Vœ˜ÌÀ>˜œÊˆ˜Ê՘>ÊÃiµÕi˜â> }ˆ>˜œÊÃՏ>ÊëiVV ˆiÀ>ʓ>Àˆ˜>° µÕiÊvÀˆÛœœÊÃVœ}ˆœÊV iÊÈÊiiÛ>ÊÛiÀÜʈ «>Ài°Ê 1˜Ê ÀˆÌÀ>ÌÌœÊ ˆµÕˆ`œÊ V iÊ V>“Lˆ> ˆ˜Vœ“«ˆÕÌ>°Ê iÃÃiÀiʈ˜Ê`Õi° ■

A little girl walks along with a hat and parasol the mysterious bond between the nature that is every day, while ashes of near and distant where the chimney of the power station now observed and the emotion that is felt. In this blue civilizations are borne on the wind to Tragara. stands. There’s a fisherman sewing his net, where vertigo, which seems to lead you elsewhere The places are mixed up, because Capri is now there is a mosaic of threadbare netting. A without ever having been here, the fossil of the everywhere: you’re no longer interested in seagull’s glistening wings paint a rainbow. monumental island survives. knowing where you are but just whether A Unliquid portrait that ritratto The two souls of the island, distant in time but For Tiberius – and for all the men who followed in something still exists outside the island. In the changes every day set like shining crystals in a ring, meet in a his name over the centuries – that frivolous rock end, if Capri seems so incomprehensible to you liquido che perfect sequence of a thousand islands: a fishing that rises up towards the sky and plunges down it’s because it has remained incomplete. boat slowly entering a puddle, the sky hurling into the abyss, was the island of Capri: the Certainly, sooner or later, you know that you’ve itself into the mirror of the lighthouse, the bell invisible landscape that conditions the visible one, arrived in a place that could be Capri or simply cambia volto tower dissolving in raindrops, the blade the town standing the right way up above the sea an idea that every traveller has of Capri or reflecting the craftsman’s hand, the small mirror that influences the town upside down in the sea, another island that happens to resemble it, and ogni giorno relishing the mouth of the chanteuse, the display the horizon that contains the façades of the that enables you to understand what Capri was case thwarting the tourist’s desires, the clouds houses but also the faces of the islanders. All the through what it has become. floating on the mirror of the sea. Capri inhabitants have a double, a deceptive twin There need to be two in the mirror, in order The island, reduced to fragments of light, reveals and a hidden sin. A liquid portrait that changes to feel unique. ■

144 145 [Capritudine]

IN VOLO Liberi. Senza ostacoli e senza limiti. Come i gabbiani reali nel cielo di Capri

di Antonella Maresca foto di Davide Esposito

iÊÈʫi˜Ã>Ê>Ê >«Àˆ]ÊÈʫi˜Ã>Ê>Ê“>Ài°Ê+ÕiÊ“>ÀiÊVœÃŒÊ>ââÕÀÀœÊV iʏ>ÊVˆÀVœ˜`> iÊÀˆi“«ˆiÊ}ˆÊœVV ˆÊiʏ½>˜ˆ“>Ê`iˆÊÃ՜ˆÊ>LˆÌ>˜Ìˆ]Ê`ˆÊÌÕÀˆÃ̈ÊiÊۈÈÌ>̜Àˆ°ÊÊ> “>ÀiÊV iÊÈʫœ˜}œ˜œÊiÊ`œ“>˜`iÊi`ÊmʘiÊ“>ÀiÊV iÊÈÊViÀV>˜œÊiÊÀˆÃ«œÃÌi° S>Vˆi]ÊL>˜>i]ʵÕ>ÈÊÃVœ˜Ì>̜ʫiÀV jʈ˜VÕÀ>LˆiÊۈ∜Ê`i>ÊÀ>ââ>ÊՓ>˜>ÊmʵÕi> `>˜˜>Ì>ÊiÊVˆiV>ʜÃ̈˜>∜˜iÊ>Ê}Õ>À`>ÀiʈÊ“œ˜`œÊÃi“«Ài]ʜʵÕ>ÈÊÃi“«Ài]Ê`>œ ÃÌiÃÜʫ՘̜Ê`ˆÊۈÃÌ>°ÊÊ

iÊÃi`ˆiÊ`ˆÊ«>}ˆ>Ê`i>Ê*ˆ>ââiÌÌ>]ʈÊV>ÀÀiˆÊVœœÀ>̈ÊV iÊÈÊv>˜˜œÊ>À}œÊÌÀ>ʏ> ▼

146 147 [Capritudine]

gente, i vicoli stretti e quella distesa az- Qualche volta arriverà a spaventare con la IN FLIGHT zurra tutt’intorno ci rapiscono senza avver- sua ombra mentre gli occhi sono accecati dal timento alcuno. sole, altre volte ruberà il panino mentre il Free. Without hindrances or limits. Like the seagulls in the skies over Capri Cerchiamo Distratti dalle bellezze terrene di quest’isola mare scatena la fame, altre volte ancora sor- ci si dimentica che siamo capaci di guardare prenderà per il suo volo, così vicino che sem- by Antonella Maresca il nostro senso in alto. Ed è lì che si può trovare una per- brerà di poterlo afferrare. Quando deciderà photos by Davide Esposito fetta e illimitata idea di luce e libertà. di mettersi in mostra si vedrà sgambettare Un’idea dalla zampe gialle, un bianco corpo sulla piazzetta della funicolare, quasi da po- hen you think of Capri, you think of the sea. That bluest of seas that surrounds di libertà sinuoso, ali dalle estremità nere e una mac- terlo toccare, ma non ci si riuscirà mai perché Wand fills the eyes and soul of its raccontando di lui chia rosso sangue sul becco. L’unico a pos- le sue ali lo condurranno sempre in ogni dove. inhabitants, and of the tourists and visitors. It’s to the sea that you ask questions, and in the sea that We seek sedere il mare e il cielo lungo l’infinita linea Lo invidiamo, spesso. Sempre. E cer- you look for answers. The incurable defect of the tra poesia, libri our sense of freedom dell’orizzonte, il gabbiano reale. chiamo il nostro senso di libertà raccon- human race, something so easy and commonplace describing them that we almost take it for granted, is our wretched, in poetry, books Se si presta attenzione lo si può trovare na- tando di lui tra poesia, libri e canzoni. blind insistence on looking at the world from the e canzoni and songs scosto sotto gli occhi, sulla punta più alta Eppure siamo più simili di quanto imma- same point of view all the time. The cane chairs of the Piazzetta, the colourful carts squeezing della Chiesa di Santo Stefano, sul campanile giniamo. Non si allontana mai dallo through the crowds, the narrow alleys and that della Certosa di San Giacomo, sui tondeg- stormo ed è così che vive, perché soltanto expanse of blue all around, seize our attention without warning. Distracted by the earthly beauties gianti comignoli dell’isola e sugli spuntoni alcuni sono solitari. Testa la stabilità di una of this island, we forget that we are capable of di roccia più reconditi. Perfettamente mi- roccia prima di costruirci un nido e quando looking up. And it is up above that we can find the metizzato ad osservare, con l’aria superba di sceglie una compagna lo fa per tutta la vita. perfect, boundless idea of light and freedom. With a flash of yellow feet, a white sinuous body, black- chi possiede una visione privata e unica. Potrebbe avere il mondo eppure sceglie tipped wings and a blood-red patch on its beak, La leggenda vuole che Afrodite, dopo la questo mare, queste rocce e quest’isola. it’s the only creature that can possess the sea and the sky, along the infinite line of the horizon: the morte di Diomede, abbia trasformato i suoi Forse è proprio qui l’ossimoro di un animale herring gull. If you look carefully, you’ll find it compagni affranti in uccelli ed è per questo così indipendente da incarnare l’idea stessa concealed in front of your eyes, on the highest tip of the Church of Santo Stefano, on the bell tower che vengono definiti Diomedei, destinati a di libertà ma così altrettanto simile all’uomo of the Certosa of San Giacomo, on the island’s cantare per sempre il loro dolore. Uno stridio da scegliere un luogo a cui appartenere. rounded chimney pots and most remote rocky crags. Perfectly camouflaged, it observes melodico, simile al pianto di un bambino, è Un passo dopo l’altro ci si può trovare in everything with the lofty air of someone who has a la sua voce. La si può apprezzare appieno sol- una di quelle giornate di onde senza piog- unique, private viewpoint. Legend has it that after the death of Diomedes, Aphrodite turned his grief- tanto nel silenzio invernale quando tutto tace gia, di sole senza calore, sul belvedere di stricken companions into birds, and that’s why e l’umidità fa gelare le ossa agli uomini. Punta Cannone e rimanere incantati dal they are called “Diomedei”, destined to sing of Ma in qualunque stagione, se si resta in suo volo senza sentire lo scorrere del their grief for ever. They have a plaintive melodious call, like a child crying. You can only appreciate it ascolto, canterà con forza la bellezza che tempo. È qui che lo si potrà vedere danzare fully in the silence of winter, when all is quiet and vista dall’alto ha tutto un altro sapore. in cielo senza alcuno sforzo, sfruttando pi- the damp freezes your bones. But in any season, if you keep listening, you will hear them sing Dalla sua prospettiva l’isola è una sirena gramente le correnti ascensionali, lascian- powerfully of the island’s beauty, which is a verde, i Faraglioni minuscoli scogli incasto- dosi andare alla giostra del vento. different thing altogether seen from above. From their perspective, the island is a green mermaid, nati nel mare, gli ombrelloni splendidi fiori Ed è qui che guardandolo si sentirà un’in- the Faraglioni are minuscule rocks set in the ▼ blu che sbocciano allo scaldar del sole, le finita voglia di volare, senza ostacoli, senza grigie strade infiniti serpenti, il centro sto- limiti, senza alcun pudore. Perché in quel rico un’intricata scacchiera bianco e rosso volo si crederà di riconoscere tutta la li- I grandi gabbiani diomedei pompeiano, come la metamorfosi di bertà che sembra mancare, dimenticando sono i padroni del cielo di Capri. Si distinguono per la loro Escher. Le onde appariranno come fresche però, che per noi uomini, essa risiede nella singolare vocalità. pennellate di un impressionista, la Certosa costante e continua possibilità di scelta. The large herring gulls are the un enorme fiore dai petali verdi, gli uomini La scelta di poter volare ovunque pur ap- masters of the skies above Capri. They are distinctive for their miseri puntini colorati in movimento. partenendo per sempre a quest’isola. ■ unusual cry.

148 149 [Capritudine]

Potrebbe avere il mondo eppure sceglie They could have the world, and yet they choose this sea, these rocks and this island questo mare, queste rocce e quest’isola

sea, the beach umbrellas are splendid blue flowers could touch them, and yet you never succeed yourself on one of those days of rough seas that open in the warmth of the sunshine, the grey because their wings always carry them off without rain, of sunshine without heat, on the roads are endless snakes, and the old town centre somewhere else. Often, we envy them. Always. belvedere at Punta Cannone, and become an intricate chessboard of white and Pompeian And we seek our sense of freedom describing enchanted by their flight, oblivious of the passing red, like Escher’s metamorphosis. The waves seem them in poetry, books and songs. Yet we are more of time. It is here that you can see them dancing like fresh brushstrokes from an impressionist similar than we imagine. They never stay far from effortlessly in the sky, gliding idly on the artist, the Certosa an enormous flower with green the flock, and that’s how they live, for only a few of updraughts of air, letting themselves be carried by petals, the people mere coloured dots moving them are solitary. They test the solidity of a rock the flurries of wind. And it is here, as you watch around. Sometimes they may startle you with their before they build a nest there, and when they them, that you feel an infinite longing to fly, shadow, when your eyes are blinded by the sun, at choose a companion, they do so for life. They without hindrances, without limits, without any other times they will steal your sandwich as the could have the world, yet they choose this sea, shame. Because in that flight you think you will find sea stirs pangs of hunger, and other times still, these rocks and this island. Perhaps this is the all the freedom that you seem to lack, forgetting, they will surprise you by flying so close you feel oxymoron of a creature so independent that it however, that for us humans, freedom lies in the you could catch them. When they decide to show embodies the idea of freedom itself, but at the constant and continuous possibility to choose. The themselves, you’ll see them waddling around the same time, so similar to humans that it chooses a choice of being able to fly wherever you want, small piazza by the funicular, almost as though you place to belong to. As you walk along, you may find while still belonging to this island for ever. ■

150 151 [Itinerari]

Passeggiare e scoprire le bellezze dell’isola. Spesso con il naso all’insù, rapiti dall’azzurro del cielo o dal volo di un gabbiano. Ma qualche volta vale veramente la pena buttare un’occhiata anche più in basso. Troverete così tappeti di ceramiche antiche, GUARDA mosaici complessi, mattonelle di tutti i colori. Interni o esterni. Dei veri e propri capolavori. E quando il piede incontra un bel pavimento scatta un selfeet. Se poi volete fare vedere a tutto il mondo dove avete appoggiato i piedi sull’isola azzurra DOVE l’hashtag è #ihavethisthingwithfloors che attualmente ha circa 680.000 followers Watch where you put your feet As people walk around exploring the beauties of the island, they often look upwards, entranced by the deep blue of the sky METTI or the flight of a seagull. But it’s well worth glancing downwards sometimes, too. You’ll find carpets of old ceramics, complex mosaics and tiles of all colours. Inside or outside, there are some real works of art. And when your feet chance upon on a beautiful floor, take a selfeet. Then if you want to show the world where you’ve set foot on Capri, I PIEDI the hashtag is #ihavethisthingwithfloors which di Martina Federico currently numbers about 680.000 followers

Questo è solo un dettaglio. Affacciatevi a quel muretto che si trova prima del porticato di accesso al centro, su via Roma, e tra voi e il mare giù in fondo si offrirà, splendido, un grande pannello in ceramica che raffigura l’isola di Capri. Porta la firma di Massimo Goderecci, magnifico ceramista caprese che lo realizzò appositamente per il laboratorio della Pasticceria Buonocore che apre le sue porte proprio su questa terrazza.

This is only a detail. Look over the wall that you find before the porticoes leading into the centre, in Via Roma, and between you and the sea down below, you will see a splendid large ceramic panel depicting the island of Capri. It was created by Massimo Goderecci, a magnificent Capri ceramics master, who created it specially for the kitchen of the Pasticceria Buonocore, which opens onto this very terrace.

152 [Itinerari] VILLA LYSIS MUSEO CASA ROSSA IL SAN VILLA MICHELE

HOTEL GATTO BIANCO 154 155 [Itinerari] CHIESA DI SAN MICHELE RISTORANTE AURORA

I sandali del servizio fotografico sono il modello “T” di Canfora. fotografico I sandali del servizio Canfora. the “T” model from are in the photos The sandals featured

156 Vivi con noi un’esperienza unica e irripetibile per scoprire Capri e “tutto ciò che le gira intorno”. Vi arricchirete di storie, sapori, colori, arte e natura della nostra isola ||| Live an experience that is one of kind, come with us and discover Capri! Find out a place full of history, tastes, colours, art and nature

reziosi, indispensabili, inutili, elaborati o semplicissimi. Tra evergreen e novità nelle boutique dell’isola non c’è che l’imbarazzo della scelta e ad ogni estate c’è qualcosa senza Pcui non si può ripartire. Abiti, accessori, gioielli, profumi, borse, sandali ma anche ceramiche, oggetti e dettagli intriganti con cui arredare la casa. Per non perdersi tra le mille proposte e trovare subito l’indirizzo giusto ecco una carrellata di idee tutte in “puro Scopri tutti i nostri itinerari e segui i nostri eventi su ||| Discover our best tours and follow our events on spirito caprese”. www.neseacapri.it Nesea Capri MUST CAPRIHAVE Precious, indispensable, unnecessary, elaborate or very simple. From evergreen classics to novelties, you’ll be spoilt for choice in the boutiques on the island and every summer there’s something that you can't leave without. Clothes, accessories, jewellery, perfume, bags and sandals, as well as ceramics, knick-knacks and intriguing ideas for home furnishings. So that you don’t lose yourself among the thousands of ideas and can find the right address straight away, here is

a round-up of ideas in “true Capri spirit”. ▼

[email protected] ph 349 52 90 191 • 333 59 43 947 [Must Have] Platinate Comun denominatore, risplendere. Una palette mirabolante di metalli preziosi Una riedizione della classica cesta della spesa per le “francescane” a fasce o con chiusura reinventata per essere glamour. In midollino con manici a lacci. / MIRROR FINISH. Common denominator: in pelle e rifinitissima. / TIMELESS LEGEND. A new they're shiny. An amazing array of precious metal version of the classic shopping basket, redesigned finishes for these “Franciscan” sandals, for a glamorous look. It's made of rattan and beautifully with straps or lace-up. finished, with leather handles. CB FUSION da Oro Capri • via Le Botteghe LABORATORIO via Ignazio Cerio Mito senza tempo Favolosi Cinquanta Erano il più classico dei ciondoli negli anni Cinquanta. Eccoli riproposti in tante forme preziose dove nell’oro si incastonano U Si chiama Et Voilà e “gioca” pietre multicolor. / THE FABULOUS con gli elementi iconici FIFTIES. These most classic n che hanno reso questo marchio of pendants from the 1950s are famoso nel mondo. Argento back again: beautiful jewellery in a host ’a e smalti sono i protagonisti of different shapes, with multicoloured L’arte della collezione. / SILVER precious stones set in gold. n SPIRIT. Called Et Voilà, LA CAMPANINA della ceramica i o this range plays with the iconic via Vittorio Emanuele m t elements that have made C’è quello dove tante piccole tessere danno vita all’originale n the Chantecler brand famous around centrotavola o la più classica ciotola in cui si stendono in rilievo a e the world. Silver and enamel foglie stilizzate. Nascono in un piccolo laboratorio di ceramica d’ rg a are the stars in this collection. e sono tutti pezzi unici. / THE ART OF CERAMICS. An original CHANTECLER • via Vittorio Emanuele L’isola centrepiece made from lots of mosaic-style pieces, or a more classic dish, featuring a relief of stylized leaves. They're made in a small ceramics workshop and each piece is unique. capra CECILIA • via Vittorio Emanuele Ragazza leopardo Laccate e ornate di grandi medaglioni le scatole dove riporre gioie o cose care. Le chiavi Trousse e portadocumenti in morbida pelle con la “leopard girl” Quadrate o rettangolari. / LIKE JEWELS. che arriva direttamente dal mondo dei Piazzini nati dalla fantasia Come gioielliThese lacquered boxes for keeping jewellery di Laetitia Cerio. / LEOPARD GIRL. Pencil cases and document holders and other precious things are di Capri in soft leather with the “leopard girl” design straight decorated with large medallions. Una key collection dove from the world of the Piazzini dreamed up by Laetita Cerio. Square or rectangular. nell’oro e nell’argento ECO CAPRI • piazzetta Cerio GRAZIA e MARICA VOZZA prendono forma via Fuorlovado gli inconfondibili Faraglioni o i puttini simbolo della maison. / THE KEYS TO CAPRI. A key collection Per la gran parte dei filologi contemporanei e moderni Capri è “l’isola where gold and silver take delle capre”, dal latino capreae. Vero o meno che l’isola abbia preso on the unmistakeable outlines il proprio nome dall’ossuto quadrupede, questa capretta sarà un delizioso of the Faraglioni or of the souvenir. / THE ISLAND OF GOATS. For most contemporary and modern cherubs that are the symbol philologists, the original meaning of Capri was “the island of nanny goats”, of this jewellery maison. from the Latin capreae. Whether or not this is true, the island took its name ANGELA PUTTINI from these bony quadrupeds, so this little goat makes a lovely souvenir. via Le Botteghe CAPRI SHOP via Giuseppe Orlandi • Anacapri

160 161 [Must Have] Coreografie Da giovane campionessa acquatiche di nuoto era diventata una star grazie ai film in cui si cimentava in spettacolari coreografie acquatiche. Con maschera e coda di sirena questa porta la firma di Paolo Sandulli e fa parte della serie “Omaggio a Esther Williams”. Pezzi unici in creta dipinta. / AQUATIC CHOREOGRAPHY. As a young swimming champion she became a star thanks to the films in which she performs spectacular aquatic choreography. Featuring a mermaid's mask and tail, this piece designed by Paolo Sandulli is part of the “Homage to Esther Williams” range. Unique pieces Pesce in painted clay. MARIORITA piazza Vittorio palla Anacapri Di origine tropicale si inizia a vedere anche nelle acque partenopee. Questo è in lino coloratissimo con gli inconfondibili tratti della home collection Livio de Simone. / PUFFER FISH. They are originally from the tropics but we are beginning to see them in the waters around Naples. This one, in brightly coloured linen, displays the unmistakeable features of the home collection by Livio de Simone. LIVIO DE SIMONE da La Parisienne piazza Umberto I Aloe, bergamotto, geranio e zagara. Quattro colori per quattro differenti fragranze per il sapone liquido con dispenser. / LIQUID AND PERFUMED. Aloe, bergamot, geranium and orange-blossom. Four colours and four different fragrances for this liquid soap in a dispenser. CARTHUSIA via Camerelle, via Parco Augusto e via Fuorlovado • Capri viale Axel Munthe • Anacapri e profumato

Le Liquido forme Si chiama Quintet il tavolino della collezione Ensemble firmata dall’architetto del caprese Francesco Della Femina. Struttura in ferro battuto e ripiani realizzati con antiche mattonelle in ceramica. / DESIGNER SHAPES. This table from the design Ensemble collection designed by Capri architect Francesco Della Femina is called Quintet. It has a base of wrought iron and tops made from antique ceramic tiles. fdfdesign.net

162 Cosa mangiare a Capri? Non c’è che l’imbarazzo della scelta. Ma ci sono alcune cose che sono imperdibili.

CORSI DI CUCINA MEDITERRANEA Il piatto si può trovare da The plate can be found at foto di / photos by A lezione da un grande chef Capri Shop Costantino Esposito via Giuseppe Orlandi Boutique Hotel & Restaurant Anacapri Corso S.Agata, 11C | 80064 | S.Agata sui due Golf (Na) | Tel. 081 878 00 26 www.donalfonso.com | [email protected] [L’isola del gusto] GRAFFE LINGUINE Abbiamo sentito dire: «io vengo AL LIMONE qui per le graffe». Ci è venuto subito da pensare: «e non hai tutti i torti». Vi piace il gusto deciso del limone? Ecco una delle delizie Già perché quelle che escono gastronomiche realizzate con i gialli frutti. dalla cucina di Costanza sono Appetitose e con tutto l’aroma dei limoni capresi. un’istituzione. Grandi, morbide, Quando la semplicità sposa il gusto. fragranti. Se non le avete mai assaggiate non perdetele. Do you like the pungent taste of lemon? This is one of the delicious Ma ricordate di prenotarle quando dishes made with lemons. Fresh and bursting with the aroma of Capri arrivate perché questi soffici anelli lemons. Where simplicity unites with flavour. con i granelli di zucchero vanno subito a ruba.

We’ve heard people say: “I come here for the graffe.” And we immediately thought: PULALLI “And I can see why.” Because the ones piazza Umberto I • tel. 081. 837.4108 that come out of Costanza’s kitchen are an institution. Large, soft and fragrant. If you’ve never tasted them, don’t let them pass you by. But remember to order them as soon as you arrive, because these soft, sugar-dusted dough BAGNI DI TIBERIO rings sell like hot cakes, so to speak. Palazzo a Mare • tel. 081.837.0703

PANINO CAPRESE È la tappa d’obbligo prima di una gita in mare. Un panino “caprese” fatto qui è una sinfonia di sapori mediterranei. Mozzarella, pomodori RAVIOLI freschissimi, olio e una spruzzata di origano. Ottimo anche con tonno e pomodoro. E se trovate Vengono praticamente preparati in tutte le case e sono forse sempre la fila, una ragione ci deve pur essere. il piatto “nazionale” dell’isola. Qui li fanno dagli anni Cinquanta, quando il ristorante era un piccolo chiosco ristoro e tra i primi This stop is a must before going on a boat trip. clienti c’era Axel Munthe. Sempre con la stessa antica ricetta: A “caprese” roll, made here is a symphony farina, olio e acqua, e per ripieno un impasto di caciotta of Mediterranean flavours. Mozzarella, the freshest e parmigiano aromatizzato con la maggiorana. tomatoes, olive oil and a sprinkling of oregano. Excellent Per condimento sugo di pomodoro fresco e basilico. with tuna and tomato too. And if you find that there’s always a queue... well there must be a reason for it. They’re made in nearly every home, and are perhaps the island’s “national” dish. Here they’ve been making them since the 1950s, when the restaurant was a small food kiosk and Axel Munthe was one of the first customers. They’re still made with the same traditional recipe: flour, oil and water, and a mixture of caciotta and parmesan cheese flavoured with marjoram for the filling. They’re served with a sauce of fresh tomatoes and basil. SALUMERIA DA ALDO di fronte alla Banchinella • Marina Grande tel. 081.837.7541 DA GELSOMINA via Migliara • tel. 081.837.1499

166 167 [L’isola del gusto] BOMBA È effettivamente una bomba. Una crosta croccante di pasta di pizza fritta che racchiude un impasto a base di prosciutto, mozzarella e un trito di origano. È praticamamente nata con il ristorante ed è frutto di una ricetta del primo chef Francesco Afeltra di Scala.

It really is a bomb. A crisp shell made from fried pizza dough enclosing a filling of ham, mozzarella and chopped oregano. It was created more or less at the same time as the restaurant and comes from a recipe invented by the first chef, Francesco Afeltra di Scala.

DA PAOLINO via Palazzo a Mare • tel. 081.837.6102

CAPRILÙ Sono una vera delizia e sempre freschissimi. Un trionfo di bocconcini a base di limone e pasta di mandorle. Uno tira l’altro. E per chi non rinuncia al gelato, qui c’è _MMMMAGINA anche il gusto caprilù da assaporare su una cialda fragrante. RADIOYACHT.IT

They’re a real delicacy and always fresh from the oven. A plateful of delicious morsels made with lemon and almond paste: extremely moreish. And for those who can’t do without an ice cream, you can also get fragrant wafers with caprilù-flavoured ice cream here. I PIU BE I TRAMONTI CON LA MUSICA DI LUNAREEP PROJECT

BUONOCORE via Vittorio Emanuele • tel. 081.837.7826

168 [Tradizioni]

La Settembrata è una festa in onore di Bacco e il tema dell’uva è il fil rouge che lega molti dei momenti che la caratterizzano.

The Settembrata is a festival in honour of Bacchus and the theme which runs through many of the typical moments is grapes. Èfesta!

di Riccardo Esposito

foto di Davide Esposito

Canti, balli, giochi, gastronomia e tradizioni. A fine agosto il cuore di Anacapri diventa il palcoscenico della Settembrata

ˆÊՏ̈“ˆÊ}ˆœÀ˜ˆÊ`ˆÊ>}œÃ̜ÊÃVœÀÀœ˜œÊÛiÀÜÊ՘ÊÀˆi˜ÌÀœÊ`>iÊÛ>V>˜âiÊ`ˆvvˆVˆi]ʏi˜Ìœ° L’edizione di quest’anno prende
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˜>V>«Àˆ¶Ê/À>ʏiÊÃÌÀ>`i]ʈÊۈVœˆÊiʏiÊ«ˆ>ââiÊV½m il via domenica 28 agosto con la sfilata inaugurale viÀ“i˜Ìœ°Ê-i“LÀ>ÊV iʈÊ«>iÃiÊÈÊÃ̈>Ê«Ài«>À>˜`œÊ«iÀÊ՘>ÊviÃÌ>Ê`i`ˆV>Ì>Ê>Ê >VVœ° che si snoda lungo le strade +Õ>V՘œÊVœ˜Ãˆ}ˆ>\ʁ >ˆ]ÊÀiÃÌ>ÌiÊ՘Ê>ÌÀœÊ«>ˆœÊ`ˆÊ}ˆœÀ˜ˆ\ʈ˜ˆâˆ>ʏ>Ê-iÌÌi“LÀ>Ì>‚°Ê-ÕLˆÌœÊ}ˆ di Anacapri. G œVV ˆÊÈʈÕ“ˆ˜>˜œÊiÊV ˆÊ«Õ¢ÊÀˆ“>˜`>ʏ>Ê«>ÀÌi˜â>° This year’s edition begins Sunday, August 28, with >ÃÌ>Ê«>ÃÃi}}ˆ>Àiʏ՘}œÊۈ>ʈÕÃi««iÊ"À>˜`ˆÊ«iÀÊV>«ˆÀiÊV iʈÊ«>iÃiÊÈʫÀi«>À>Ê«iÀÊ՘> the opening parade through

the streets of Anacapri. }À>˜`iÊviÃÌ>°ÊÊ«Àœ«ÀˆiÌ>ÀˆÊ`iˆÊ˜i}œâˆ]Ê>`ÊiÃi“«ˆœ]Ê>``œLL>˜œÊiÊÛiÌÀˆ˜iÊVœ˜Ê«ˆ}˜i ▼

170 171 [Tradizioni]

`½ÕÛ>Ê iÊ >˜ÌˆV ˆÊ >ÌÌÀiââˆÊ ÀiVÕ«iÀ>ÌˆÊ ˜i> Ãvˆ>Ìi]ÊV>ÀÀˆÊi`ÊiÈLˆâˆœ˜ˆ°Ê/ÕÌ̈ÊVœ>LœÀ>˜œ *œˆÊ՘ʏ՘}œÊ«iÀˆœ`œÊ`ˆÊ«>ÕÃ>°Ê>Ê-iÌÌi“‡ LET’S CELEBRATE! V>˜Ìˆ˜>°Ê 6ˆVˆ˜œÊ >>Ê >Ã>Ê ,œÃÃ>Ê V½mÊ Õ˜ «iÀÊÌÀ>ÃvœÀ“>ÀiÊ
˜>V>«ÀˆÊˆ˜Ê՘ʏ՜}œÊ“>‡ LÀ>Ì>Êۈi˜iÊ`ˆ“i˜ÌˆV>Ì>Ê«iÀÊ`ˆÛiÀÜÊÌi“«œ] }ÀÕ««œÊ`ˆÊ«iÀܘiÊV iÊ>iÃ̈ÃViÊ՘ÊL>˜Vœ\ }ˆVœ]ÊÜëiÜʘiÊÌi“«œ°Ê iÊÀˆiۜV>Ì>ʘiÊ£™ÇÇÊ«iÀÊÀˆ«œÀÌ>Àiʈ˜Ê«ˆ>ââ> Singing, dancing, games, cooking and traditions. Every late August µÕˆÊˆ˜ˆâˆ>ʈÊ«iÀVœÀÜÊ}>ÃÌÀœ˜œ“ˆVœÊV iÊ>̇ >Ê«Àˆ“>Êi`ˆâˆœ˜iÊ`ˆÊµÕiÃÌ>ÊviÃÌ>ÊÀˆÃ>iÊ> >ÊÛiÀ>Ê
˜>V>«Àˆ°ÊÊȘ`>VœÊ>ÕÃ̜Ê
ÀVÕVVˆ Anacapri welcomes the Settembrata ÌÀ>ÛiÀÃ>ʈÊVi˜ÌÀœÊÃ̜ÀˆVœÊvˆ˜œÊ>iÊ œvvi] £™ÓÎ]ʵÕ>˜`œÊ՘Ê}ÀÕ««œÊ`ˆÊÌÕÀˆÃ̈Ê`iVˆ`i Àˆ«Ài˜`iʵÕiÃÌ>ÊÌÀ>`ˆâˆœ˜i]ÊÛ՜iÊ«ÀœÕ˜‡ ՘>Ê`iiÊ«ˆ>ââiÊÃ̜ÀˆV iÊ`ˆÊ
˜>V>«Àˆ]ÊiÊV i `ˆÊÃ>ÕÌ>ÀÈʫÀˆ“>Ê`iÊÀˆi˜ÌÀœÊ>Ê >«œˆ°Ê i }>ÀiÊvˆ˜œÊ>ʓiÌDÊÃiÌÌi“LÀiʏ>ÊÃÌ>}ˆœ˜iÊÌՇ by Riccardo Esposito photos by Davide Esposito ˆ˜ÊµÕiÃ̈Ê}ˆœÀ˜ˆÊœÃ«ˆÌ>ʈÊ“iÀV>̈˜œÊ`ii VœÀÜÊ`i}ˆÊ>˜˜ˆ]ʏiÊÃVi˜œ}À>vˆiÊiʏiʓ>˜ˆ‡ ÀˆÃ̈V>°Ê-i˜â>ʓ>ˆÊ«iÀ`iÀiÊ`ˆÊۈÃÌ>ʏœÊëˆÀˆÌœ

«ÕVˆ° viÃÌ>∜˜ˆÊÛi˜}œ˜œÊVÕÀ>ÌiÊ`>ʘœ“ˆÊˆÕÃÌÀˆ `iiÊ«Àˆ“iÊi`ˆâˆœ˜ˆ° he last days of August usually go by slowly, +ÕiÃÌ>Êmʏ>Ê-iÌÌi“LÀ>Ì>\Ê՘>ÊÀˆVœÀÀi˜â>ÊV i V iÊvÀiµÕi˜Ì>˜œÊ½ˆÃœ>\ʈˆ««œÊ/œ““>Ü >˜Ìˆ]ÊL>ˆ]Ê}ˆœV ˆ]Ê«ÀœÛiÊvˆÃˆV iÊiÊ`ˆÊVՇ leading up to a grim return home after the holidays. It can be hard at times. But what ÀˆÕ˜ˆÃViʏ½ˆ˜ÌiÀ>ÊVœ“Õ˜ˆÌDÊ>˜>V>«ÀiÃi°Ê,iȇ >Àˆ˜iÌ̈]Êi˜˜>ÀœÊ >«œˆ]Ê
vÀi`œÊ >‡ Vˆ˜>\ʏ>Ê-iÌÌi“LÀ>Ì>ÊmÊ«iÀÊÌÕÌ̈]ÊL>ÃÌ>Ê>ÛiÀi T happens in Anacapri? The last days of August in `i˜ÌˆÊ iÊ Ûˆi}}ˆ>˜ÌˆÊ >ۜÀ>˜œÊ ˆ˜Ãˆi“iÊ «iÀÊ Ãi>]ʈ˜œÊˆ«ˆ˜ÃŽÞÊi`Ê `܈˜Ê iÀˆœ°Ê œ˜ L՜˜>Êۜœ˜ÌD°Ê œÃŒÊ˜>ÃVœ˜œÊiÊ*>VV ˆ>˜i° Anacapri are all about excitement, in every street, alley and square. It looks like the town is œÀ}>˜ˆââ>Ài]ʜ}˜ˆÊ>˜˜œ]Ê՘ÊiÛi˜ÌœÊV iÊÀˆ‡ “>˜V>ʏ>ÊVœ>LœÀ>∜˜i]ÊV½mÊ}À>˜`iÊviÀ‡ œÊVœ˜viÀ“>Êi˜>Ê>À}ˆÕœ]ÊÃ̜ÀˆV>ÊVœ“‡ preparing for a festival dedicated to Bacchus. Someone suggests: “Come on, stay a couple V ˆ>“>ʏiÊ>˜ÌˆV iÊÌÀ>`ˆâˆœ˜ˆÊVœ˜Ì>`ˆ˜iÊVœ˜ “i˜ÌœÊvˆ˜Ê`>ˆÊ«Àˆ“ˆÊ>˜˜ˆ° «œ˜i˜ÌiÊ`iÊ}ÀÕ««œ\ʁ
½i«œV>ʇÊÜ̇ ▼ more days: the Settembrata’s about to begin.” Immediately eyes shine and those who can, put off their departure. You have only to walk along Via Giuseppe Orlandi to understand that the town Durante la Settembrata le contrade is preparing for a great festival. Shop owners, for di Anacapri sono animate da figuranti in costume che danno vita a quadretti rappresentativi example, decorating their windows with bunches delle antiche tradizioni isolane. of grapes and ancient tools found in the cellars; near the Casa Rossa a group of people is setting During the Settembrata, the quarters of Anacapri up a stall: this is where the food itinerary begins, are enlivened by people in costumes crossing the old town up to the Boffe, one of the enacting scenes of ancient island traditions. historic squares of Anacapri, where a flea market is held during the festival. This is the Settembrata: a yearly event that brings the whole Anacapri community together. Residents and Le Pacchiane holidaymakers work together every year to organize an event that recalls the ancient Pamela, Lena, Maria, Giuseppina, Filomena, Maria, Genì. Questo è il grup- peasant traditions, with parades, floats and po storico delle Pacchiane, amiche e compagne di lavoro nei campi che, fin exhibitions. Everyone works together to dalla prima Settembrata del 1977, decidono di mostrare a turisti e residen- transform Anacapri into a magical place, ti la vera Anacapri, un luogo fatto di tradizioni antiche e legami forti con la suspended in time. The first edition of this festival propria terra. dates back to 1923, when a group of tourists Le Pacchiane sfilano per le strade del paese così come fanno ogni giorno decided to meet and bid each other farewell nei campi, mostrando scene di vita rurale. Il tratto distintivo? Il “panaro”, before returning to Naples. Through the years, la cesta per trasportare la frutta e la verdura che arrivava dai campi: viene the settings and the events have been curated by portato sulla testa con abilità da giocoliere, sfidando la legge di gravità. Il the many famous personalities who used to gruppo delle Pacchiane è sempre presente durante la sfilata d’apertura, sojourn on the island: Filippo Tommaso Marinetti, quando mettono in scena momenti di vita contadina e lungo il percorso ga- Gennaro Napoli, Alfredo Casella, Lino Lipinsky stronomico che attraversa Le Boffe. Impossibile rinunciare alla pizza fritta and Edwin Cerio. There was never lack of helpers, condita con pomodoro fresco, mozzarella, parmigiano e basilico: una vera delizia. there has always been great excitement since the very first editions. Then came a lengthy interval and the Settembrata was forgotten until 1977, The Pacchiane year when it was revived to bring the real Anacapri back onto its streets. Mayor Fausto Pamela, Lena, Maria, Giuseppina, Filomena, Maria, Genì. This is the original Arcucci must be credited for bringing this Pacchiane group, friends and field-work colleagues who, since the first tradition back, wanting to prolong the tourist Settembrata in 1977, decided to show tourists and residents the real Anacapri, a place of ancient traditions and strong ties to the land. season to mid-September, but always staying The Pacchiane walk along the town streets just as they do every day in the true to the spirit of the first editions. Singing, fields, showing scenes of rural life. What is the distinctive trait? The panaro, dancing, games, strength and cooking the basket used to carry the fruit and vegetables from the fields: they balance demonstrations: everyone can join the it on their heads like jugglers defying the laws of gravity. The Pacchiane Settembrata, all is needed is goodwill. That’s how always join the opening parade, where they enact scenes of peasant life, and the Pacchiane were born. Lena Gargiulo, can also be seen along the culinary itinerary through Le Boffe. It is impossible long-standing member of the group, explains: not to taste the fried pizza with fresh tomato, mozzarella, parmesan and basil: “At the time – Lena affirms – everyone brought a true delight. along whatever they wanted and they dressed up with the clothes they found at home. It all ▼

172 173 [Tradizioni]

̜ˆ˜i>Êi˜>ʇʜ}˜Õ˜œÊ«œÀÌ>Û>ʵÕiœÊV i ÀˆVœÀ`>Ê
˜Ìœ˜ˆiÌÌ>Ê ‡Ê V½iÀ>Ê ½i˜ÌÀ>Ì>Ê `i started with an idea Pamela Viva had: a parade ۜiÛ>ÊiÊÈÊÛiÃ̈Û>ÊVœ˜ÊˆÊ«>˜˜ˆÊV iÊÌÀœÛ>Û> «>iÃiÊiʏ՘}œÊ>ÊÃÌÀ>`>Ê«ÀœÛˆ˜Vˆ>iÊÈÊÌÀœ‡ through the town with people carrying baskets full of the fruits of the earth on their heads. Just ˆ˜ÊV>Ã>°Ê/ÕÌ̜Êmʘ>̜Ê`>Ê՘½ˆ`i>Ê`ˆÊ*>“i> Û>Û>ʏ>Ê`œ}>˜>°Ê
Ê >«Àˆiʈ˜ÛiViÊV½iÀ>˜œ as we did everyday.” This was the distinguishing 6ˆÛ>\Êv>ÀiÊ՘>ÊÃvˆ>Ì>ÊVœ˜ÊˆÊvÀÕÌ̈Ê`i>ÊÌiÀÀ>] iÊÃÌ>i]ʈÊV>Û>ˆÊiʏiÊV>ÀÀœââi\ÊiVVœÊ«iÀ‡ feature of the Settembrata during the 1970s, its genuineness. The tourists loved the scenes of the «œÀÌ>˜`œÊ«iÀʏiÊÃÌÀ>`iÊ`iÊ«>iÃiʏiÊViÃÌi V jʈÊ˜œ“iÊiÊ-Ì>i°Ê*œˆÊV½mʏ>ÊVœ˜ÌÀ>`> threshing, the grape harvest, the fruit harvest. ÃՏ>ÊÌiÃÌ>°Ê*Àœ«ÀˆœÊVœ“iÊv>ViÛ>“œÊœ}˜ˆ `iiÊ œvvi]ʈÊV՜ÀiÊ>˜ÌˆVœÊ`ˆÊ
˜>V>«ÀˆÊi` But the Settembrate were more than simple “grape festivals”. They were also a time to }ˆœÀ˜œ‚°Ê iÌiÀ˜>ÊÀˆÛ>iÊ`iiÊ-Ì>iÊ`ÕÀ>˜Ìiʏ>Ê-i̇ compete with culinary and sporting events. One of the most popular competitions, with the most +ÕiÃ̜ÊiÀ>ʈÊÌÀ>Ì̜Ê`ˆÃ̈˜ÌˆÛœÊ`i>Ê-i̇ Ìi“LÀ>Ì>‚°Ê >Ê«iÀV jʈÊ˜œ“iÊiÊ œvvi¶ desired prize, was the swimming race that started Ìi“LÀ>Ì>Ê`ÕÀ>˜ÌiÊ}ˆÊ>˜˜ˆÊ-iÌÌ>˜Ì>]ʏ>Ê}i‡ *ÀœL>Lˆ“i˜ÌiÊÈÊÀˆviÀˆÃViÊ>>ÊvœÀ“>Ê`ii at Gradola beach and ended at the Blue Grotto. For some time the Settembrata divided the town ˜Õˆ˜ˆÌD°ÊÊÌÕÀˆÃ̈Ê>“>Û>˜œÊiÊÃVi˜iÊ`i> V>ÃiÊV iÊÀˆ«Ài˜`œ˜œÊiÊ>ÀV ˆÌiÌÌÕÀiÊ}ÀiV i your freedom, into four quarters: La Porta, Le Pietre, Le Boffe L>Ì̈ÌÕÀ>]Ê`i>ÊÛi˜`i““ˆ>]Ê`i>ÊÀ>VVœÌ> Vœ˜ÊۜÌiÊ>ÊÃi“ˆLœÌÌi°Ê+Ո˜`ˆ]ʈ˜Ê`ˆ>iÌ̜ and Le Stalle, names linked to popular traditions. A tradition that Antonietta Di Pace – Ninetta to `iˆÊvÀÕÌ̈°ÊiÊ-iÌÌi“LÀ>ÌiÊiÀ>˜œÊÛiÀiʺviÃÌi >˜>V>«ÀiÃi]ʺ>LLÕvv>Ìi»° our excellence her friends, she too a long-standing member of `i½ÕÛ>»]ʓ>ʘœ˜Ê܏œ°Ê À>˜œÊ>˜V iÊ՘ >Ê-iÌÌi“LÀ>Ì>]Ê«iÀÊ`ˆÛiÀÈÊ>˜˜ˆ]Ê >ÊۈÃ̜ the Pacchiane group – knows well: “Le Pietre quarter is the central area of the town, it is so “œ“i˜ÌœÊ`ˆÊVœ˜vÀœ˜ÌœÊVœ˜Ê}>ÀiÊëœÀ̈ÛiÊi iÊVœ˜ÌÀ>`iÊÃvˆ`>ÀÈÊVœ˜Ê«>ÃȜ˜i°ÊÊ«Ài‡ called because in the past the roads were paved }>ÃÌÀœ˜œ“ˆV i°Ê1˜>Ê`i>ÊVœ“«ï∜˜ˆ “ˆœÊˆ˜Ê«>ˆœÊiÀ>ʈÊÀ>««œœÊ`½"Àœ]ÊiÊ«iÀ in limestone (pietra means stone in Italian). La Porta quarter that embraces piazza Vittoria and «ˆÙÊ>ÌÌiÃiÊiÀ>ʵÕi>Ê`ˆÊ˜ÕœÌœÊV iÊ>˜`>Û> Vœ˜µÕˆÃÌ>ÀœÊˆÊV>«œÊVœ˜ÌÀ>`>ʜÀ}>˜ˆâ‡ Villa San Michele, once separated Capri and `>>Êëˆ>}}ˆ>Ê`ˆÊÀ>`œ>Êvˆ˜œÊ>>ÊÀœÌÌ> â>Û>ʜ}˜ˆÊ`iÌÌ>}ˆœ\ʏiÊ}>ÀiÊ`ˆÊ>LˆˆÌDÊvˆ‡ Anacapri. Here – Antonietta recalls – was the

ââÕÀÀ>Ê«iÀÊ}Õ>`>}˜>ÀÈÊ՘ʫÀi“ˆœÊ>“LˆÌœ ÈV>ÊiÀ>˜œÊ>Ûۈ˜Vi˜Ìˆ]ʏiÊÃiÀ>ÌiÊ}>ÃÌÀœ˜œ‡ entrance to the town and along the provincial Vœ“iÊ«œV ˆ°Ê “ˆV iÊ`ˆÛi˜Ì>Û>˜œÊ“>˜ˆviÃ̜Ê`i>ʓˆ‡ road there used to be the toll house. In Caprile there were the stables, horses and carts: hence *iÀÊ՘ʫiÀˆœ`œÊ>Ê-iÌÌi“LÀ>Ì>Ê >Ê`ˆÛˆÃœÊˆ }ˆœÀiÊVÕVˆ˜>Ê>˜>V>«ÀiÃi°Ê"}˜ˆÊVœ˜ÌÀ>`> the name Le Stalle (the stables). Then there is Le «>iÃiʈ˜ÊµÕ>ÌÌÀœÊVœ˜ÌÀ>`i\Ê>Ê*œÀÌ>]Êi >ÛiÛ>Ê`iˆÊ«Õ˜ÌˆÊ`ˆÊvœÀâ>]ʓ>ʏiÊv>ۜÀˆÌi Boffe quarters, the heart of old Anacapri and eternal rival of Le Stalle during the Settembrata.” *ˆiÌÀi]ÊiÊ œvviÊiÊiÊ-Ì>i]ʘœ“ˆÊi}>̈ iÀ>˜œÊÃi“«ÀiÊiÊ œvviÊiÊiÊ-Ì>iÊV iÊÈ But why the name Le Boffe? Probably it refers to >>ÊÌÀ>`ˆâˆœ˜iÊ«œ«œ>Ài°Ê1˜>ÊÌÀ>`ˆâˆœ˜i Ãvˆ`>Û>˜œÊ ÜÌÌœÊ ½œVV ˆœÊ >ÌÌi˜ÌœÊ `i> the shape of the houses that recall Greek architecture with the semi-barrel vaults, which in V iÊ
˜Ìœ˜ˆiÌÌ>Ê ˆÊ*>ViʇʫiÀÊ}ˆÊ>“ˆVˆÊ ˆ‡ }ˆÕÀˆ>°Ê Anacapri dialect is “abbuffate”. For many years, ˜iÌÌ>]Ê >˜V iÊ iˆÊ ˜iÊ }ÀÕ««œÊ `iiÊ *>V‡ /ÕÌ̈ÊViÀV>Û>˜œÊ`ˆÊ`>ÀiʈÊ“>ÃȓœÊiÊ`ˆ the quarters challenged each other enthusiastically during the Settembrata. The prize V ˆ>˜iʇÊVœ˜œÃViÊLi˜i\ʁ>ÊVœ˜ÌÀ>`>Êi ÃÌÕ«ˆÀiʈÊ}ˆÕ`ˆVˆ°Ê,ˆ“>˜iʘi>ÊÃ̜Àˆ>Ê`ˆ to be won was the Grappolo d’Oro (golden bunch *ˆiÌÀiÊmʏ>Ê✘>ÊVi˜ÌÀ>iÊ`iÊ«>iÃi]ʏ>ÊV ˆ>‡
˜>V>«ÀˆÊ>ÊÀˆVœÃÌÀÕ∜˜iÊ`i>ÊÀœÌÌ>Ê
⇠of grapes), and in order to win it the head of the quarter carefully organized every detail: the “ˆ>“œÊ VœÃŒÊ «iÀV jÊ ˆ˜Ê «>ÃÃ>ÌœÊ >Ê «>ۈ‡ âÕÀÀ>]Ê`ÕÀ>˜Ìiʏ½i`ˆâˆœ˜iÊ`iÊ£™™È]ʈ˜Ê՘> competitions were exciting, the gastronomic “i˜Ì>∜˜iÊiÀ>Ê`ˆÊ«ˆiÌÀ>ÊV>V>Ài>°Ê> «Àœ«ÀˆiÌDÊۈVˆ˜œÊ«ˆ>ââ>Ê œvviÆÊ՘ʏ>ۜÀœ evenings became showcases for the best Anacapri cuisine. Each quarter had its strong Vœ˜ÌÀ>`>Ê>Ê*œÀÌ>]ʵÕi>ÊV iÊ>LLÀ>VVˆ> V iÊVœˆ˜ÛœÃiʈʓˆ}ˆœÀˆÊ>À̈}ˆ>˜ˆÊ`iÊ«>iÃi° points, but the favourites were always Le Boffe «ˆ>ââ>Ê6ˆÌ̜Àˆ>ÊiÊ6ˆ>Ê->˜Ê ˆV ii]Ê՘ >Ê✘>Ê`iiÊ-Ì>i]ʈ˜ÛiVi]ÊmÊv>“œÃ>Ê«iÀ and Le Stalle that competed against each other under the watchful eye of the jury. Everyone gave their best trying to amaze the judges. Tel.24H: +39 3485862830 Tel 24H: +39 3460077470 Ìi“«œÊ`ˆÛˆ`iÛ>Ê >«ÀˆÊiÊ
˜>V>«Àˆ°Ê+Ոʇ >Ê«Ài«>À>∜˜iÊ`iˆÊۈ>ˆÊ«ÀˆÛ>̈ÊiÊ«iÀ ▼ ▼ www.hoverflysam.it - [email protected] www.hoverfly.it - [email protected] 175 [Tradizioni]

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The 1996 edition has become an important part of domination, the conquest of the island by the the enthusiasm of the groups and the Anacapri history, for the reconstruction of the French, the rediscovery of the Blue Grotto and the competitions are. Today even more care goes into Blue Grotto that was made on a property near inclusion of Capri in the stop-overs of the Grand the details and the settings. Is anything missing? piazza Boffe; a piece of work that involved the Tour. Massimo Coppola, councillor for tourism, Maybe a touch of spontaneity. The Pacchiane best craftsmen of the town. The area of Le Stalle remembers that particular Settembrata with used to create the costumes out of nightgowns, is instead famous for the decoration of the private pleasure: “The landing of Gioacchino Murat’s people in the parade used fruits from their roads and for the delicious meat cooked during French troops in Capri took place in 1808, and for gardens and offered them to holidaymakers with the culinary competitions. The main theme of the the 2008 Settembrata we decided to recall that the Anacapri specialities cooked on the spot. Settembrata has always been grapes. It is a part of the island’s history, together with the That’s how traditions are: they evolve and go in festival in honour of Bacchus and during the phases of the conquest of Capri and the landing in unforeseen directions. The 1970s Settembrate parade the first allegorical floats have recurring the Orrico area. The grand opening parade, with have written a page of Anacapri’s history. To references to the wine. One of the best editions over 300 participants, stopped in piazza Vittoria participate in the yearly show that brings to life was the 2008 one entitled Allons enfants… La precisely to recall that historical event, one of the streets in the historic centre is an unmistakable Presa di Capri (Allons enfants… the conquest of most important in this island’s history”. Great sign of the bond between tourists and residents. Capri) that recalled the first decades of the memories for a Settembrata that changes every Because still today the Settembrata is the grape nineteenth century on the island: the English year. But the cooking is always the same, just as festival, but above all it is a hospitality festival. ■

176 A spasso tra i vicoli dell’isola tra le eleganti boutique e le botteghe storiche. Moda, ma non solo, per un gusto esclusivo made in Capri Strolling along the narrow streets of Capri between elegant boutiques and traditional workshops. Fashion, and more, in the exclusive “made in Capri” style

SHOPPING

179 [Shopping] Un tempo raro e prezioso

ia Vittorio Emanuele, una strada antica che dal salotto di Capri scende dolce- mente fino all’imponente facciata del Quisisana. È qui, al civico 4 che sembra ancora quasi Piazzetta, che apre le sue luminose vetrine Virginia, storica gio- Vielleria che quest’anno si è presentata all’appuntamento con la nuova stagione completa- mente rinnovata. Vetrine più luminose e ampie si affacciano sulla via e come tante finestre preziose si offrono numerose anche all’interno ad ospitare i monili più belli. Pochi spazi sono dedicati ai capricci della moda, perché da sempre qui vengono proposti gioielli dalle linee intramontabili e senza tempo. Un tempo che è invece scandito dai più rari orologi da collezione. Una passione, quella per l’orologeria, che il fondatore di Virginia Silvio Ruocco ha da sem- pre e che ha trasmesso al figlio Fabrizio che oggi porta avanti la gioielleria che si sta spe- © FOTOFLASH cializzando sempre più nel vintage di alta qualità. D’epoca, rari e da collezione sono i marchi culto che si possono trovare qui, dal Rolex Paul Newman al Breguet Type XX pas- VIRGINIA sando per i Submariner e le casse Super Compressor degli anni Sessanta, puri oggetti vin- via Vittorio Emanuele A rare and precious time tage. Orologi non solo da polso ma anche da tavolo o da viaggio. virginiacapri.com Via Vittorio Emanuele is an old street that Silvio Ruocco, the founder of Virginia, has Da sempre, seguendo il ritmo dell’eleganza e del gusto ogni sogno è realizzabile all’interno descends gently from the drawing-room of always had a passion for watches and has di Virginia perché, come recita la scritta della targa sul tavolo, “It can be done”. Nell’in- Capri down to the imposing facade of the passed it onto his son, Fabrizio, who now confondibile stile caprese, ovviamente. Quisisana. Here, at no.4, which still seems runs the jewellery shop, specializing more almost to be in the Piazzetta, are the bright and more in top quality vintage watches. windows of Virginia, the historic jewellers Historic, rare and collectors’ watches that has been completely renovated to greet feature among the cult brands that can be © FOTOFLASH the new season this year. Brighter, larger found here, from the Paul Newman Rolex to windows face onto the road, and like many the Breguet Type XX, the Submariner, and jewellery shop windows, offer plenty of the Super Compressor cases of the 1960s, space inside too, to house the most all pure vintage pieces. And there are not beautiful pieces of jewellery. only wristwatches, but clocks and travelling Not much space is devoted to the whims of clocks too. Every dream can come true the fashion world, because this shop has inside the Virginia, following the rhythms of always offered classic, timeless ranges of elegance and taste, because, as the sign on jewellery. But time is measured here by the the table reads: “It can be done”. In true rarest of collectors’ watches. Capri style, of course.

180 181 [Shopping] La cura dei dettagli ntrando da Massa, al civico 36 di via Vittorio Emanuele, una cosa salta subito agli occhi ed è la cura dei dettagli, quelli del design della boutique, ma soprattutto i particolari degli abiti esposti. Le camicie ad esempio, allineate sugli stand espositivi, offrono un colpo d’occhio in cui il colore Ela fa da padrone. Osservando attentamente si scopre che ogni singolo capo ha in sé un insieme di rifiniture che lo rendono unico. Le fantasie dei colletti e dei polsini, infatti, sono abbinate ad ogni nuance con una cura particolare. Un lavoro accurato, che richiede gusto, creatività e tanta fantasia. È Nunzia Massa, insieme alle figlie Roberta e Floriana, a studiare modelli e combinazioni di tendenza che poi i sarti artigiani confe- zionano con la dedizione e la maestria di un tempo. Accanto alle creazioni sartoriali ci sono poi le grandi marche come Les Copains e Via delle Perle che hanno scelto le vetrine di questa storica boutique per mostrare le proprie creazioni. Perché Massa è sinonimo di tradizione e di buon gusto, da quando aprì i battenti alla fine del- l’Ottocento. E ancora oggi Beppe accoglie nella boutique che porta il suo nome uomini e donne amanti del gusto e della ricerca- tezza, con lo stile di sempre. MASSA Care over the details When you go into Massa, at number 36 Via Vittorio Emanuele, one thing catches your attention immediately: the care over detail, both in the layout of the shop but also, and

© FOTOFLASH especially, in the details of the clothes on display. For example, the shirts, arranged on display stands, offer a striking show of colour. If you look closely, you’ll see that every individual garment has a set of finishing touches that make it unique. Every nuance in the patterning at the collars and cuffs is matched with the utmost care. It’s a painstaking task that requires taste, creativity and lots of imagination. Nunzia Massa, together with her daughters Roberta and Floriana, studies the patterns and combinations of trends which are then made up into garments by their skilled tailors, with dedication and old-style craftsmanship. Alongside the tailored clothes, there is also clothing from big labels such as Les Copains and Via delle Perle, who have chosen the windows of this historic boutique to display their own creations. Because Massa has been synonymous with tradition and good taste since it first opened its doors at the end of the 19th century. And today, Beppe is still there in the shop that bears his name, ready to greet all those men and women who prize taste and elegance, in his usual inimitable style. MASSA via Vittorio Emanuele tel. 081.837.0621

182 [Shopping]

Silhouette unica

re generazioni di donne per un © MARTINA FEDERICO nome e un marchio, quello di Puttini, la cui storia va di pari Ma i gioielli Puttini, non sono solo questo. Ogni gioiello, infatti, è Tpasso con quella di Capri. Ogni gioiello è un’opera d’arte forgiata dalle mani di orafi e artigiani amanti della un’idea originale, eccentrica e unica nata cura del dettaglio. Tutte le creazioni sono un vero e proprio omaggio dalla creatività e dall’estro di Antonella, alla tradizione e alla terra partenopea, isola azzurra in qualità ereditate da sua madre Angela. primis. Sono tante infatti le collezioni che rappresen- Oggi nella boutique di via Le Botteghe c’è tano Capri, i suoi luoghi più famosi, i personaggi anche Gaia, figlia di Antonella, che gestisce che l’hanno resa celebre, e insieme a loro puttini il marketing e si occupa di far conoscere la e amuleti rincorrono l’amore e la fortuna tra oro storia e la passione delle creazioni orafe e pietre preziose. PUTTINI anche al di fuori dell’isola. Ispirata a Capri è anche l’ultima collezione, via Le Botteghe Capri Mia! Orecchini, anelli, bracciali e ciondoli riproducono la sil- puttini.com houette dell’isola e i Faraglioni, tra leghe preziose in diverse colora- zioni e brillanti che danno luce, colore e gioia di indossare un pezzo di Capri e magari portarla sempre con sé. A unique silhouette Three generations of women who share a name and a label, the Puttini label, whose story goes hand in hand with that of Capri. Each piece of jewellery is an original, quirky and unique idea that springs from Antonella’s creativity and inventiveness, qualities which she inherited from her mother, Angela. Now, Antonella’s daughter Gaia is also part of the boutique in Via Le Botteghe, taking care of marketing and making people aware of the history and passion behind these jewellery creations, including beyond the island’s boundaries. But the Puttini jewellery is more than just this. Each piece is a work of art, shaped in the hands of goldsmiths and craftsmen who take loving care over every detail. All the creations are a genuine homage to the traditions and territory of Naples, and above all to the azure isle. There are many collections representing Capri, its well-known places and the personalities who have made the island famous, and alongside these are cherubs and amulets, chasing after love and fortune among the gold and precious stones. The latest collection is also inspired by Capri: Capri Mia! Earrings, rings, bracelets and pendants reproduce the silhouette of the island and the Faraglioni, with precious alloys in different colours and stones that bring light, colour and the joy of wearing a piece of Capri, and maybe carrying it around with you for ever.

184 185 © MARTINA FEDERICO [Shopping] Per una casa CAPRI HOME via Le Botteghe vestita su misura tel. 081.837.5981 © FOTOFLASH

un piccolo fiore che inizia a sbocciare all’arrivo della Dalle vetrine e dagli scaffali di questa caratteristica boutique di via Tailor-made outfits for the home Along with naturally elegant accessories in pastel shades, the shop primavera. E a Capri i suoi petali si sono posati nella Le Botteghe, accanto agli accessori per la casa resi naturalmente It’s a small flower whose buds begin to open with the arrival of windows and shelves of this charming shop in Via Le Botteghe also nuova collezione per la casa di Capri Home dove tenere eleganti dalle colorazioni pastello, si offrono in mostra abiti e co- spring. And here on Capri, its petals can be found in the new Capri display clothing and beach robes in the finest linen. Soft, classic Èprimule ricamate sono arrivate ad ornare tutti i capi della bian- pricostumi nel lino più bello. Linee morbide e intramontabili per i Home collection of home furnishings, where delicate embroidered lines in plain colours or tone on tone, on which embroidered prim- cheria per la casa. Tante le nuance di colori e, soprattutto, la pos- tinta unita o in quelli tono su tono dove si aprono in ricami fioriti primroses adorn all the household linen. There’s a wide range of roses open their delicate petals. sibilità di personalizzare ogni cosa. Le raffinate creazioni della i morbidi petali delle primule. colours and above all, the chance to personalize everything. The el- It is all made in the traditional artisan way, but reinterpreted from a biancheria da letto, da bagno o per la tavola possono infatti essere Tutto è realizzato in maniera artigianale ma reinterpretato in egant La Fabbrica del Lino creations for the bedroom, bathroom and contemporary angle, and everything has the distinctive uniqueness realizzate anche su misura rendendole così adattabili ad ogni chiave moderna e tutto risalta nell’unicità delle creazioni frutto dining-table can be custom-made, so they are adaptable to suit all of a creation produced by the best Italian tradition, designed to suit forma o grandezza. della migliore tradizione italiana e pensate per ogni esigenza. shapes and sizes. all requirements.

186 187 TUTTO illustrazione di Fabio Finocchioli - farobuondesign.com

Hotel | Ristoranti | Stabilimenti balneari | Locali notturni | Numeri utili [Tutto Capri]

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De Tommaso gattobianco-capri.com VILLA SARAH ★★★★ pensioneitaliacapri.com mulino-capri.it tel. 081.837.1360 Via Tiberio - tel. 081.837.7817 Via Capodimonte [email protected] HOTEL DELLA villasarahcapri.com LA REGINELLA ★★ tel. 081.978.0111 ALLA BUSSOLA ★★★ PICCOLA MARINA ★★★★ Via Matermania capripalace.com Via Traversa La Vigna CASA CAPRILE ★★★ Via Monticello - tel. 081.838.2236 Via Mulo CAPRI WINE HOTEL ★★★ tel. 081.837.7283 tel. 081.838.2010 Via Follicara villaceselle.com Via Camerelle tel. 081.837.9642 Via Provinciale Marina Grande hotellareginella.com CAESAR AUGUSTUS ★★★★★ bussolahermes.com tel. 081.837.3948 tel. 081.837.0788 hoteldellapiccolamarina.it tel. 081.837.9173 Via G. Orlandi - tel. 081.837.3395 casacaprile.com LA PORTA ★ quisisana.com capriwinehotel.com ARANCIERA DELLE TERESIANE ★ caesar-augustus.com BELLAVISTA ★★★ Via Axel Munthe - tel. 081.837.2748 LA FLORIDIANA ★★★★ Via Castello Via G. Orlandi IL GIRASOLE ★★★ PUNTA TRAGARA ★★★★★ L Via Campo di Teste ESPERIA ★★★ tel. 081.838.2162 MELIÀ VILLA CAPRI ★★★★★ tel. 081.837.1463 / 1821 Via Linciano VILLA EVA ★ Via Tragara - tel. 081.837.0844 tel. 081.837.0166 Via Sopramonte [email protected] Via G. Orlandi - tel. 081.837.3924 fax 081.838.2719 tel. 081.837.2351 Via La Fabbrica - tel. 081.837.1549 hoteltragara.it lafloridiana-capri.com tel. 081.837.0262 melia.com bellavistacapri.com ilgirasole.com villaeva.com [email protected] DA GIORGIO ★ CAPRI TIBERIO LA MINERVA ★★★★ Via Roma - tel. 081.837.5777 PALACE & SPA ★★★★★ LA CERTOSELLA ★★★ dagiorgiocapri.com Via Croce - tel. 081.978.7111 Via Tragara - tel. 081.837.0713 tiberiopalace.com hotelcertosella.com GUARRACINO ★ Via Mulo - tel. 081.837.7140 CASA MORGANO ★★★★★ LA PRORA ★★★ capri.net/en/c/guarracino Via Tragara - tel. 081.837.0158 Via Castello casamorgano.com tel. 081.837.0281 LA TOSCA ★ albergolaprora.it Via D. Birago - tel. 081.837.0989 RISTORANTI JK PLACE CAPRI ★★★★★ latoscahotel.com Via Marina Grande NAUTILUS ★★★ CAPRI D’AMORE KUKAI LA PIGNA tel. 081.838.4111 Via Occhio Marino Via Marina Piccola QUATTRO STAGIONI ★ Via Fuorlovado (Sushi Bar) Via Lo Palazzo jkcapri.com tel. 081.837.7067 tel. 081.837.5322 Via Marina Piccola - tel. 081.837.0041 AL CAPRÌ tel. 081.837.0665 Via Listrieri tel. 081.837.0280 laminervacapri.com [email protected] hotel4stagionicapri.com (Don Alfonso) tel. 081.837.0498 LA SCALINATELLA ★★★★★ Via Roma DA GIORGIO LE CAMERELLE Via Tragara - tel. 081.837.0633 LA PALMA ★★★★ VILLA KRUPP ★★★ STELLA MARIS ★ tel. 081.837.7108 Via Roma LA CAPANNINA Via Camerelle scalinatella.com Via Vittorio Emanuele Via Matteotti - tel. 081.837.0362 Via Roma tel. 081.837.0898 Via Le Botteghe tel. 081.837.8677 tel. 081.837.0133 villakrupp.com tel. 081.837.7246 AL GROTTINO tel. 081.837.0732 VILLA MARINA CAPRI lapalma-capri.com Via Longano DA LUIGI LE GROTTELLE HOTEL & SPA ★★★★★ tel. 081.837.0584 Via Faraglioni LA CISTERNA Via Arco Naturale Via Provinciale Marina Grande LA RESIDENZA ★★★★ tel. 081.837.0649 Via Madre Serafina tel. 081.837.5719 tel. 081.837.6630 Via Federico Serena AURORA tel. 081.837.5620 villamarinacapri.com tel. 081.837.0833 Sotto il segno del vino DA TONINO LO SFIZIO laresidenzacapri.com Via Dentecala LA COLOMBAIA Via Tiberio ★★★★ CAPRI WINE HOTEL ’A PAZZIELLA via Provinciale Marina Grande, 69 tel. 081.837.6718 tel. 081.837.4128 Via Fuorlovado - tel. 081.837.0044 LA VEGA ★★★★ hotellapazziella.com Via Occhio Marino tel. 081.837.9173 DONNA RACHELE LONGANO tel. 081.837.0481 www.capriwinehotel.com Via Padre S. Cimmino Via Longano, 9 AMBASSADOR WEBER ★★★★ lavega.it tel. 081.837.5387 tel. 081.837.0187 Via Marina Piccola tel. 081.837.0141 LUNA ★★★★ ÈDIVINO MAMMÀ hotelweber.com Viale Matteotti Via Sella Orta tel. 081.837.0433 Via Fuorlovado tel. 081.837.8364 BEST WESTERN SYRENE ★★★★ lunahotel.com tel. 081.837.0181 Via Camerelle - tel. 081.837.0102 FARAGLIONI (Grand Hotel Quisisana) hotelsyrene.com MAMELA ★★★★ BUCA DI BACCO Via Camerelle Via Camerelle Via Campo di Teste Via Longano - tel. 081.837.0723 tel. 081.837.0320 tel. 081.837.0788 CANASTA ★★★★ tel. 081.837.5255 Via Campo di Teste hotelmamela.com BUONOCORE GENNARO LA FONTELINA tel. 081.837.0561 Via V. Emanuele AMITRANO Via Faraglioni hotelcanastacapri.it REGINA CRISTINA ★★★★ tel. 081.837.7826 Via L’Abate tel. 081.837.0845 Via Federico Serena tel. 081.837.8380 Via Madre Serafina CAPRI ★★★★ tel. 081.837.0744 CAPRI LA LIMONAIA tel. 081.837.7472 Via Roma - tel. 081.837.0003 reginacristina.it Via Roma IL GERANIO (Hotel Syrene) htlcapri.it tel. 081.837.0003 Viale Matteotti Via Camerelle MEDJ PUB RELAIS MARESCA ★★★★ tel. 081.837.0616 tel. 081.837.0102 Via M. Serena - tel. 081.837.5148 EXCELSIOR PARCO ★★★★ Via Provinciale CAPRI MOON Via Provinciale Marina Grande Marina Grande Via Provinciale Marina Grande ISIDORO LA PALETTE MICHAEL’ANGELO tel. 081.837.9671 tel. 081.837.9619 tel. 081.837.0266 Via Roma Via Matermania Vico Sella Orta excelsiorparco.com relaismaresca.it fax 081.837.7953 tel. 081.837.7252 tel. 081.837.9235 tel. 081.837.7220 [Tutto Capri]

MISTER BILLY MARINA GRANDE LA PIAZZETTA L’ANGOLO LA CANZONE DEL MARE SALOTTO 42 Via Le Botteghe Via Marina Piccola DEL GUSTO STABILIMENTI tel. 081.837.0104 LOCALI Via Roma - tel. 348.4125960 tel. 081.837.7642 AUGUSTO tel. 081.837.7827 Via Boffe Via C. Colombo tel. 081.837.3467 BALNEARI LO SCOGLIO DELLE SIRENE NOTTURNI TAVERNA ANEMA E CORE MONZÙ tel. 081.837.0559 LE SIRENE tel. 081.837.0221 Via Sella Orta Via Marina Piccola LA RONDINELLA tel. 081.837.6461 BAGNI TIBERIO tel. 081.837.0221 Via G. Orlandi TORRE SARACENA tel. 081.837.1223 tel. 081.837.0646 VVCLUB SCIALAPOPOLO CAPRI CAPRI Via V. Emanuele ALL’ONDA D’ORO LA TABERNA tel. 081.837.6230 / 7024 Via Marina Piccola DEGLI AMICI BAGNI DI TIBERIO FARAGLIONI LA CAPANNINA tel. 081.837.0698 Via Caprile tel. 081.837.0703 WINE BAR E GRAPPERIA tel. 081.837.0475 DA LUIGI Vico San Tommaso ANACAPRI TORRE SARACENA LE ONDINE tel. 081.837.0591 tel. 081.837.0732 Via Krupp LA TABLITA tel. 081.837.5453 INSOMNIA (Hotel Punta Tragara) tel. 081.837.0646 Via G. Orlandi LA FONTELINA NUMBER ONE Via G. Orlandi Via Tragara tel. 081.837.3582 LO SMERALDO tel. 081.837.0845 Via V. Emanuele - tel. 081.837.7900 tel. 081.837.3605 tel. 081.837.0844 Via Palazzo a Mare tel. 081.837.5072 tel. 081.837.7688 LA TERRAZZA NUMBER TWO LANTERNA VERDE SOFT BAR PANORAMA ANACAPRI DI LUCULLO ANACAPRI Via Camerelle - tel. 081.837.7900 Via G. Orlandi Traversa Lo Palazzo BUONOCORE MARINA PICCOLA tel. 081.837.1427 tel. 081.837.5290 Via C. Colombo AL BUCO GRADOLA PIANO BAR tel. 081.837.0384 V.le D. Tommaso BAGNI INTERNAZIONALI tel. 081.837.1433 GRAND HOTEL QUISISANA MALIBLÙ PULALLI WINE BAR tel. 081.837.1970 tel. 081.837.0264 Via Camerelle - tel. 081.837.0788 Punta Carena Piazza Umberto I DA PAOLINO LIDO DEL FARO tel. 081.837.2560 tel. 081.837.4108 Via Palazzo a Mare BARBAROSSA DA GIOIA tel. 081.837.1798 PIANO BAR HOTEL LA PALMA tel. 081.837.6102 Via Porta tel. 081.837.7702 Via V. Emanuele - tel. 081.837.0133 PIANO BAR QUISI tel. 081.837.1483 NETTUNO CAPRI PALACE & SPA (Grand Hotel Quisisana) EUROPA DA MARIA CAPRI CLUB QUBÉ Via Capodimonte Via Camerelle DA PEPPINO CASA ROSSA tel. 081.837.5648 tel. 081.837.1362 Via Li Curti - tel. 081.837.1707 tel. 081.978.0111 tel. 081.837.0788 Via C. Colombo FOOD & WINE (Hotel Caesar Augustus) tel. 081.837.0344 Via G. Orlandi Via G. Orlandi RELAIS LA PALMA tel. 081.837.3417 tel. 081.837.3395 (Hotel La Palma) JKITCKEN Via Vittorio Emanuele (Hotel JK Place) COLUMBUS LE ARCATE OASI MOTOR tel. 081.837.0133 Via Marina Grande Via Caposcuro Viale De Tommaso Via Pagliaro tel. 081.838.4111 tel. 081.837.1441 tel. 081.837.3325 NOLEGGIO tel. 081.837.2444 RENDEZ-VOUS (Grand Hotel Quisisana) IL PESCATORE DA ANTONIO LE TERRAZZE Via Camerelle Via C. Colombo Punta Carena Via Capodimonte tel. 081.837.0788 tel. 081.837.6490 tel. 081.837.3255 tel. 081.837.3302 MOTOCICLI NAUTICA SCIALAPOPOLO L’APPRODO DA GELSOMINA LIDO DEL FARO ALBERINO GENNARO Via Gradoni Sopramonte Piazzetta A. Ferraro Punta Carena CAPRI tel. 081.837.7118/5833 tel. 081.837.9054 tel. 081.837.8990 tel. 081.837.1798 “CAPRI” ALEMAR TERRAZZA BRUNELLA LA TERRAZZA L’OLIVO DI ALFANO ANTONIO tel. 328.8273759 Via Tragara (Relais Maresca) (Hotel Capri Palace) Via Marina Grande tel. 081.837.0122 Via Provinciale Via Capodimonte tel. 081.837.7941 BANANA SPORT Marina Grande tel. 081.978.0111 tel. 081.837.5188 CAPRITIME BOATS LO SCOGLIO TERRAZZA TIBERIO tel. 081.837.9619 “CAPRI” tel. 329.2149811 DELLE SIRENE (Hotel Tiberio Palace) MAREA DI ALFANO CIRO BLU CHARTER MARE tel. 081.837.0221 Via Croce LO SMERALDO (Melià Villa Capri) Via Don Giobbe Ruocco tel. 081.771.3156 CAPRI WONDERFUL/ tel. 081.978.7850 Piazza Vittoria Via Migliera Via G. Orlandi tel. 081.837.8018 GIANNI’S BOAT MOTOSCAFISTI DI CAPRI tel. 081.837.5072 tel. 081.837.1499 tel. 081.837.3924 BLURIDE CAPRI tel. 338.1622275 tel. 081.837.5646 VERGINIELLO OASI MOTOR BOAT CHARTER Via Lo Palazzo LO ZODIACO GIORGIO MATERITA Via C. Colombo tel. 334.6652634 CAPRI WORLDBOAT RENT A BOAT tel. 081.837.0944 Piazzetta A. Ferraro AL CUCCIOLO Via G. Orlandi tel. 081.837.7138 tel. 335 8155725 tel. 339.7786014 tel. 081.837.6332 Via La Fabbrica tel. 081.837.3375 BLUE SEA CAPRI VILLA JOVIS tel. 081.837.2675 RENT AN ELECTRIC SCOOTER tel. 393.9481486 / 338.9253286 CIRO CAPRI BOATS RENT A BOAT DI SALVATORE ZIQÙ SAN MICHELE Via Roma tel. 339.8844677 E LUIGI LEMBO (Hotel Villa Marina) IL RICCIO (Hotel San Michele) tel. 081.837.5863 CAPRI BLU SERVICE tel. 081.837.0355 / Via Marina Grande Via Grotta Azzurra Via G. Orlandi tel. 339.3971672 / 331.5670683 ESPOSITO NUNZIO 338.4970194 tel. 081.837.6630 tel. 081.837.1380 tel. 081.837.1427 tel. 081.837.7849 ANACAPRI CAPRI BOATS SALVIA ANIELLO IL SARACENO TERRAMMARE tel. 081.837.6091 GAETA MICHELE tel. 339.7109052 Via Trento e Trieste Via Migliera ALFANO ANTONIO 338.9200756 tel. 081.837.1660 MARINA PICCOLA tel. 081.837.1181 tel. 339.878.5140 Piazza Barile SERCOMAR tel. 081.837.3888 CAPRI YACHT CHARTER GUARRACINO GIANCARLO tel. 081.837.8781 DA GIOIA IL SOLITARIO VINOTECA tel. 333.5691896 tel. 081.837.6520 - 338.3070291 Via Lo Palazzo Via Marina Piccola Via G. Orlandi DELLA ZAGARA CAPRI DI ALFANO CIRO STINGA LORENZO tel. 081.837.6354 tel. 081.837.7702 tel. 081.837.1382 Via G. Orlandi Piazza Barile CAPRI RELAX BOAT IVAN TOUR tel. 328.1510353 tel. 081.837.2923 tel. 081.837.8018 tel. 081.837.4559 / 331.6084109 tel. 334.3165570 VILLA VERDE LA CANZONE DEL MARE LA FENICIA WHALES Vico Sella Orta Via Marina Piccola Viale Axel Munthe GROTTA AZZURRA CAPRI SEA DREAM LEOMAR tel. 081.837.8894 / tel. 081.837.7024 tel. 081.837.0104 tel. 081.837.3600 Via Tuoro - tel. 081.837.1486 tel. 081.837.8018 tel. 081.837.7181 339.7275499 [Tutto Capri] NUMERI UTILI

Azienda autonoma di cura soggiorno e turismo FARMACIE FARMACIA INTERNAZIONALE UFFICIO INFORMAZIONI Via Roma - tel. 081.837.0485 TURISTICHE capritourism.com FARMACIA QUISISANA Via Le Botteghe CAPRI tel. 081.837.0185 tel. 081.837.0686 FARMACIA DEL PORTO MARINA GRANDE Via C. Colombo tel. 081.837.0634 tel. 081.837.5844 ANACAPRI FARMACIA BARILE tel. 081.837.1524 Piazza Vittoria tel. 081.837.1460

PARAFARMACIA AGENZIE DEL LONGANO Via Longano DI VIAGGIO tel. 081.837.4099 CAPRI PARAFARMACIA FERRARO GROTTA AZZURRA Via G. Orlandi Via Roma - tel. 081.837.0466 tel. 081.837.1185

TIBERIO VIAGGI E TURISMO PARAFARMACIA Via Li Curti - tel. 081.837.6371 NATURALIA Ci prendiamo cura delle vostre cose Via Caprile - tel. 081.837.2975 TRIAL TRAVEL Via Don Giobbe Ruocco tel. 081.837.6895 TAXI ANACAPRI Ferma GROTTA AZZURRA CAPRI Largo Fontana Piazza Martiri d’Ungheria tel. 081.837.0022 tel. 081.837.0543 le violenze. PANSA TRAVEL ANACAPRI Via G. Orlandi Piazza Vittoria tel. 081.837.2230 tel. 081.837.1414 / 081.838.2981

ALISCAFI E TRAGHETTI CapriSchedule Gli orari di aliscafi e traghetti da e per Capri oltre a quelli di tutti i bus che fanno servizio sull’isola in una App gratuita. Spedizioni da e per l’isola di Capri DONA IL 5XMILLE ALLA LAV Aggiornati in tempo reale con le info fornite dall’Azienda Autonoma di Cura, Soggiorno e Turismo. Da quasi 40 anni abbiamo dedicato Servizi giornalieri per Ischia e Procida The hydrofoil and ferry timetables from and to Capri as well as bus timetables ogni singolo giorno a loro: gli animali. for the bus services on the island in a free App. Updated in real time with Li abbiamo amati e difesi. information provided by the Azienda Autonoma di Cura, Soggiorno e Turismo Corrispondente TNT (the local tourist board).

Abbiamo combattuto per i loro diritti. [ Spedizioni internazionali, servizio bagagli, Li abbiamo liberati da prigioni. trasporti per meeting, logistica e deposito Abbiamo ottenuto leggi e giustizia. Hanno ancora tanto bisogno di noi. Deposito di Napoli E grazie a te continueremo ad esserci. SEGUICI via Nuova del Brecce ANCHE SU GAMBARDELLA SERVICE via Provinciale Marina Grande, 59 CAPRIREVIEW.IT 80073 CAPRI (NA) tel/fax 081.837.8830 - 081.837.8831 [email protected] [

IWC PILOT. #B_ORIGINAL.

Join the conversation on #B_Original.

Big Pilot’s Watch. Ref. 5009: ispirato ai questo orologio, come di chi lo indossa: una innata atti- primi orologi da aviatore e originale al tempo stesso – tudine ad essere originale. IWC. ENGINEERED FOR MEN. come i suoi celebri predecessori, anche il nuovo Big Pilot’s Watch eccelle per la sua tecnica di precisione e Movimento meccanico, Sistema di ricarica automatica il design funzionale. Difatti, il più grande calibro di Pellaton, Calibro di manifattura 51111, Autonomia di marcia di manifattura realizzato da IWC accumula rapidamente 7 giorni a carica completa, Indicazione della riserva di carica, Datario, Secondi centrali con dispositivo di arresto, Cassa

un’autonomia di marcia di sette giorni. Con l’indice 36 interna in ferro dolce per la protezione dai campi magnetici, triangolare posizionato sotto la minuteria e gli indici dei Vetro zaffiro, antidecompressione, Incisione speciale sul • 5 minuti più sottili, il quadrante evoca il modello origi- fondello, Impermeabile 6 bar, Diametro 46 mm, Cinturino in nale del 1940. Non sorprende quindi la definizione di pelle di vitello di Santoni review CAPRI COPIA OMAGGIO • COMPLIMENTARY COPY • n. 36