QUARTERLY. SUMMER/FALL 2005-06. ISSUE 12. .A fashion trade magazine for the insiders by the insiders. PKR 225. US $ 4.50

TREND WATCH REPORT PARIS MILAN LONDON NEW YORK COLORFABRICHAIR & MAKE UPACCESSORYHOME

BOOKSMUSICMOVIESTV TRAVELFOODART GROOMING & FITNESS: LEADERS & ICONS

FASHION ON THE STREET READY TO WEAR COUTURE MADE IN PAKISTAN: EXPORTS BUSINESS CASUAL DESIGNER PRINT COLLECTION INTERIORS

HERE COMES THE SUNWHY IS THE APPAREL INDUSTRY DOWN IN LAHORE? INDIA FASHION WEEK TALKING SHOP

TH BUKHARI ANILA Q. AGHA YAHSIR WAHEED

1 YOU ALWAYS COME BACK TO THE BASICS. The difference between a mediocre and an outstanding presentation? —paying attention to the details. It starts with the right attitude. No matter how brilliant the concept, in business, it’s the execution that counts. Miss a detail and the deal falls through. It’s these annoying little things that count. They’re the basis of a polished presentation. When it comes to corporate strategy, there’s no such thing as a minor detail.

ABNSOFT A complete IT Solutions company

2 Database Web Hosting Web design Internet marketing Accounts’ solutions Software Net working Desktop Publishing IT Consultation & Troubleshooting Cell: 0300-4318335, 0300-9486081, Email: [email protected] Website : http://www.abnsoft.com A fashion trade magazine for the insiders by the insiders.

TRAVEL: THAILAND 28 Phuket: a great holiday in the sun

FOOD 30 Onions rings as easy as 1,2,3… It’s not easy breaking into the food in- dustry

ART 31 “Nowadays Art has only one value— price,” says Nausheen Saeed

GROOMING/FITNESS 32 Leaders and Icons

Shopping guide

SUMMER/FALL 2005/2006 STREET FASHION TREND WATCH REPORT 33 cool summer florals are the hottest 06 The overall mood new trend on the streets... 07 Key looks 09 Men STYLE ON A BUDGET:RTW 10 Color 34 Cheap chic, high style/low budget 11 Hair & Make up trends 12 Accessory report 2005 TROUSSEAU GUIDE: COUTURE 14 Fabric report 36 Traditional colors are still in vogue 16 Tracing a trend 38 “Prices are excessive for basic sil- 18 Men’s SU06 Milan fashion week houettes,” asserts Fatima Mufti…

HOME TRENDS 2005 MADE IN PAKISTAN: EXPORTS 20 41 Let’s get real Luxury linens in beautifully bold, 46 The secret to a bottomless closet? fresh colors FABRIC REPORT 22 49 Yahsir Waheed’s Contemporary gets an extreme print collection Makeover

BOOKS RETAIL 24 Why smart executives fail? 58– Summer heat a sales-killer for most MUSIC retailers

25 Ali Sher,

Singing to a different beat INTERIORS 60 Storage ideas MOVIES that work 26 Angelina Jolie, 62 Elements of Beautiful, eccentric, and highly intelli- style, little touches, gent big difference

TELEVISION 27 Ahmed Ali Butt, not your typical actor

3 64 69 Here comes the sun, Men of the hour summer 2006 color, glass fabric and silhou- ette trends 70 India Fashion week: 65 more is more, with a Why is the apparel dollop of too much industry down in La- hore? 73 Talking shop

78-79 Haute & sizzling, 76 Vaneeza Ahmad The ten major causes of Leadership failure 80-81 by Napoleon Hill T. H. Bukhari: “investment in Gwader is 77 Office Politics risky at best…’ Why play company politics? Rules of office politics 82-83 Anila Quayyum Agha: looking for a challenge in the United States of America

84-85 Yahsir Waheed: 05 Letter from the editor Breaking new ground… 40 For adults only

Well then, we are definitely interested in you. We love talking about successful people from all walks of life. Call us! What are you waiting for? The Knit-Xtyle Fashion Review On the web: www.tkfr.com ; email: [email protected]

4 A fashion trade magazine for the insiders by the insiders

Quarterly, issue 12—Summer/fall 2005-06

Mission Statement To be the leading information resource on apparel, tex- tiles, fashion and marketing industries of Pakistan. To em- had a dream—to build a medium that could connect us to all the power readers through information - Create linkages - Focus on people instead of processes - Talk about the other professionals in our business—designers, media managers, people who make it all happen - Speak out on key issues - I buyers & sourcing managers, manufacturers, suppliers, bankers, Get involved - Identify, highlight and investigate by impar- brand managers, and retailers that run our industry by creating meaningful tial, balanced, factual and responsible reporting - Stand up for fairness, truth & the fundamental rights of human linkages in print media - to empower our people through information beings in the work place. about our world in an easy and accessible fashion from the CEO's down to the front line managers and supervisors. This magazine was the result. My Publisher & Managing Editor focus has never changed over the years— my goal has always been to ask Fareeha Qayoom ; email: [email protected] Cell# 0345-412 7020 you the questions and let you supply your own answers. To provide you with information that can help you make things better in your workplace - IT/MIS Director to serve as "a window to your changing world”—by keeping you in the Adnan Q. Qayyum ; email: [email protected] loop. Cell# 0300-431 8335

Even though, issue 12 is different in terms of color and more pages of Art Director content from the past eleven issues, my emphasis continues to be on use- Anila Q. Agha ful information as opposed to a pretty picture book showcasing high pro- Sales & Marketing Director file designers and beautiful people of our fashion industry. There are Farrah Naz : email: [email protected] enough magazines out there giving you information on that particular category. Besides, I am not interested in showcasing a tiny segment of our Our contacts are: industry but the whole industry of our country. The Knit-Xtyle Fashion Review The more time I put in our industry, the more I realize the importance Email: [email protected] ; On the web: www.tkfr.com of consistent and updated information about the big picture and the world we live & work in. All of us have looming deadlines that need to be met at Printer: Exotic Printers expense of everything else - it's a race against time. The natural tendency cell# 0300-4231858 in such situations is to zoom in on those troubled spots (to focus better on the problems and their solutions) and zoom out the unnecessary details. Distributor: This unfortunately develops a tunnel vision, which in turn is counterpro- Sethi Books cell# 0300-8443345 ductive - the less urgent details matter too, probably more than we think in the big picture. Besides, you tend to forget in the process that everything Disclaimer: All signed articles published in TKFR represent in this world is moving in one direction only and that's forward and you solely the opinions of the writer and not those of TKFR. Any need to keep pace with it. We are all running. What distinguishes the win- comments attributed to people interviewed or cited in TKFR articles do not represent the opinions of TKFR. Fur- ners from the losers in this race is their ability, speed & persistence. Peo- thermore, the ads featured in TKFR do not reflect TKFR ple who achieve the highest speed possible in that one moment in time design or fashion aesthetics, these are the sole responsibil- win - The winners are flexible whatever the circumstances, but they never ity of the advertiser/sponsor in question. All rights reserved. ever lose sight of their goals and they don't quit--period. I am talking Acknowledgements: Trend Watch report & Interna- about your ability to adapt and still stay focused on your dreams and tional news items are based on hours of research by peo- goals. ple of TKFR here and abroad— even though, we gratefully acknowledge the fact that this research is based on many Time, change and consistency are synonymous in my book. This may information resources, its not possible for us to cite each look like a contradiction in terms but when you really think about it, it and every source where applicable due to scarcity of makes sense - the only constant are your goals - the rest are all variables. space.

The only thing you can really control is your speed. Change is a consistent Gratefully acknowledge the help, support and coopera- force and it is moving in time in only one direction - forward. You need to tion of the following people in putting the stories together: align yourself with change and time. The more you pull in its opposite Adil Sher, Saima Zaidi, Shahrukh Chaudhry, Fatima Mufti, direction, the more your chances of failure. Bottom line, move with the Sadia Lone, Anila Q. Agha, Adnan Q. Qayyum & Farrah times, not against its compelling force or risk falling way behind. Naz Q., Fazal Agha, Yahsir Waheed & Vicky Cohen. This is the theme of this issue. Change and our alignment with it. In Thank you — deeply appreciate your contribution & ad- the immortal words of Ferris Bueller “ life moves pretty fast. If you don’t vice. Your time, friendship and support means a lot. :))) stop to look around every once in a while, you might miss it.” Please only write to me if you plan to criticize or disagree with us. I am not interested in any other form of feedback! Credits: Cover design, story pages& fashion layouts, writing and research: Fareeha Qayoom. IT Support, on the web/ Happy reading! :))))) Photograph Editing & corrections: Adnan Q. Qayyum.

5 t's going to be a colorful season with the range of ments, indispensable basics and emotional pieces that colors and styles for Summer/Fall 2005-06 reflect- keep things lively. While what's in the wardrobe is im- I ing a growing optimism in fashion. The return to portant, it's how these elements work together that's grown-up dressing continues with an emphasis on really critical. glamour and classic style. The good news about build- Spring-Summer 2005-06 is a vibrant collage of ing one’s own fashion wardrobe today, much like per- fresh colors, peppy accessories and prints inspired from sonal style, it’s all in the interpretation. all over the world. Animal prints, Indian and Oriental There are many retro references relating to past ethnic charm and nautical blues are in. Fashion goes eras but these are combined in a new way creating fresh global as western designs adorn exotic eastern-style looks for the new season. Pieces can be worn with cur- embellishments and flairs. Sequins continue to sparkle rent favorites to make an individual style statement in the evening as they lend a glamorous glow to eve- which is very much the mood of the moment. ning gowns. Chunky, wooden, beaded and layered Women are inclined to buy pieces that work with necklaces team up with jeweled flats or wedges, floppy existing items in their wardrobes; they want pieces that hats and metallic or muted hand and shoulder bags can serve as building blocks for other items. Must- complete your spring-summer 2005 look. haves that every woman needs in her wardrobe include In a sharp contrast to the more subtle trends last tailored pants in khaki, charcoal and black, a pencil spring which were limited to bright and vivid colors, skirt and an A-line skirt, a few tees, and a perfect white this year's trends set no limits at all. Everything is at it's T-shirt, a great jacket, a crisp white shirt & a selection extremes. Choose flats or wedges, mini handbags or of a few key tops, a casual drawstring beach pant, a few oversized ones, neutral solids or animal prints or acid accessories that update these classics each season, a bright colors, you can be as fanciful as you wish and little black dress; it’s a smart piece that won’t let you still be fashionable. The ordinary person can be as up to down and defies changing trends, and of course, the date as the woman with thousands to spend and indeed one absolute must-have item is a very clean and this is becoming a problem at the higher end of the straightforward pair of jeans that can be dressed up or market, as those who desire exclusivity often dress in a down, from day to night with a quick switch of just the very similar way to those who know little or nothing right top and accessories. Jeans are the ultimate staple about fashion, but just happened on an item in the of a feminine wardrobe; what you wear them with is all shops that copy designer ideas immediately. up to you. A great pair of jeans can be interpreted Exclusivity and scarcity has returned so that the countless ways, and finally a chic trench coat. luxury market can reinvent itself providing personal- Regardless of the latest trends, more and more fe- ized luxury items with a fleeting life and few in num- male consumers are opting to mix and match both old ber. 'Beyond luxury products' will become a new and new when putting together outfits. A truly great norm for the rich to seek as they crave rare materials wardrobe is carefully acquired over time and updated and unusual finishes not generally seen. ■ seasonally. It typically includes a mix of classic invest-

Bill Blass Calvin Klein BC BG Max Azria Anna Sui

6 ummer/Fall 05-06 fashions are beautifully waistline, halter neck dresses with baby doll em- wearable with romantic touches, whimsi- pire lines, smock looks, apron dresses, narrow cut S cal looks and global influences. Skirts swing coats with cuffed sleeves and cuffed pock- make a huge splash with every shape showing up. ets, sashes on garments, especially coats with A-lines, pencils, pleats, gathers, poufs, tiers, fan sashes, flared and draping skirts, Shantung silk tails and full skirts with fuller skirts looking new- bag trousers with rolled up self made turn ups, est, hemlines tend to hover around the knee, both pants with cuffed hems, beaded and jewel en- above and below with a few longer looks. crusted sandals, chunky jewelry and charm brace- While skirts were definitely the ‘big’ news, lets. pants and shorts also remain strong looks for spring-summer. Waistbands are a hair higher Key shapes: (super low cut isn’t so current looking anymore) Slim fit look: commercially sharp collections and legs are a touch wider. Capri's are hot again with snappy, sharp tailoring for women. Cropped and show up from ankle lengths to just below the close fitting jacket/blazer, a safari jacket, shorts or knee while shorts are either very short or just slim fit, skinny jeans tucked in to boots. Slouchy above the knee. boyfriend blazers, snug boleros, school uniform Anna Sui Jackets are shorter with less shape and structure. jackets at Stella McCartney, Chloe, Alexander Blouses are loose and billowing and trenches look McQueen, look best over a lightweight dress for great with skirts and pants. The hottest looks, re- evening or with shorts and a tunic for day. gardless of shape, focus on the waist, either shaped towards the waist or accented with a belt Sheer volume look: the body is cocooned in or sash. fabric. Fashion inspired from the 1870-80’s, Accessories are probably one of the biggest dresses are covered in abundance of swags, layers, ‘must-haves’ for summer/fall. Shoes make strong bows and pleats, ornamentation and sheer volume statements on their own. Shoes vary widely with of fabric. Voluminous full skirts, oversized strappy high heeled sandals and closed pointed toe trenches, full-legged trousers at Viktor & Rolf, shoes to flat shoes with jewel or ethnic adorn- Lanvin, Lagerfeld Gallery call for another piece in ments. Wedges and espadrilles return and there the same style, but formfitting, to ensure right are lots of ornaments on shoes with flowers and proportions. Another variation of this look is the beads two of the biggest looks. empire waistline look - drapey, diaphanous Jewelry is a must for every look with bangles, dresses at Prada, Lanvin, Michael Kors look best bold metals and ethnic inspired looks. Try layered when worn minus the accessories to keep the look necklaces, bold bracelets and statement making chic and modern. earrings and rings. Most is either over-scaled in size (go for the bigger pieces, keeping in mind that Bohemian, eclectic, ethnic look: a bohe- if you are small, medium sized will be over-scale mian look borrowed from many sources, tribal, on you) or layered – just one piece isn’t enough – African, peasant, folkloric, Indian, Japanese, Poly- layer it up for the current look. nesian, Romany, Moroccan, Puerto Rican, Mon- Colors range from white, and variations of white golian and Native American. Nehru collars, sari to other neutrals including black, brown, cream fabrics, embroidery, ikat and Aztec or primitive and navy. These are paired up with dusty pastels patterns, excessive bangles and beads, mirror and strong bright colors including pink, yellow, work, batik, tie and dye printing, obi sashes to green, turquoise, coral, orange, red and blue green. macramé knotting, all to achieve an eclectic mix Metallics like gold, bronze and silver are perfect that gives us the feeling of déjà vu. Indian bead- matches and are great alone as accents or in prints work, Moroccan caftans, African motifs, folkloric which are also new in ethnic prints, abstract pat- embroidery at Dries Van Noten, Costume Na- terns and florals. tional, Roberto Cavalli, Lanvin stands great Key looks for summer 05-06 according to against basics. Another variation on this theme is Vogue are: Floral, nautical, volume, prom, tropi- cal, short story, jackets, bright colors, ethnic, ruf- the Gypsy, flower power look: inspired by the fles, knitwear, romantic white, sequins, safari, 1950’s and first holiday’s abroad, with a sugges- abstract, modern white, nudes, tribal jewelry, sum- tion of hippie, flower power. Overwhelmingly mer nights, blue tones, and accessories. Other key embroidered garments in Indian paisley designs, looks on the runaways this season are caftans from hip length to floor length, new emphasis on higher (Continued on page 8) Bill Blass

7 Kenneth Cole Bill Blass Oscar de la Renta Vera Wang Emanuel Ungaro

(Continued from page 7) floaty milk maid dresses, camisole tops, lingerie- inspired satin corsets, lace knit cardigans, and sheer layering in tops and dresses. A variation of with strongly colored and explicit tropical printed this theme is the use of color – Metallics: Color- flower patterns, a strong revival of authentic but ful cellophane-like breezy fabrics pioneered by primarily eastern clothing. Burberry Prorsum look modern and fresh when worn during the day with white matte cotton tops, Safari look: a mismatched, layered casual look body-hugging patterned knits and khaki bottoms. created from a mix of ethnic safari, exploring For that extra touch wear metallic hues as acces- style. Animal prints, bush jackets, khaki suits are sories all day long. Orange: From pale orange a perfect option for a casual day in the office. sorbet to citrus bright, orange at Zac Posen, Caro- Designers at Italian brands embraced this trend lina Herrera, Marc Jacobs, Viktor & Rolf, Ann most wholeheartedly. MaxMara, Stella Demeulemeester looks best when paired with McCartney, Gianfranco Ferre paired the timeless crisp white or worn bold from head to toe. White: safari jacket once introduced by Yves Saint Head-to-toe crisp summer white at Helmut Lang, Laurent with white jeans or a pencil skirt. Narciso Rodriguez, Louis Vuitton, Calvin Klein looks best when done tailored with a crisp vest The clunky arts n’ crafts look: a fascination and pants or romantic in an easy breezy summer with hand crafted look is a strong theme for this dress. season. Individuality is the name of the new fash- Carolina Herrera ion game. Garments that look as if they have been Ten things you need in sum- clumsily recycled will appear with decorative cut mer-2005: 1) wide-legged pant, outs and will strongly feature badly applied appli- preferably khakis – CK Khaki qué. This clumsy, roughly worked appliqué with a and Gap will do. 2) The tunic – clunky effect that is intended to be a naïve, shirt or a dress – to be worn over folksy, and amateurish will be easy to apply as a slim capri and Bermuda shorts. 3) custom finish to your own garments. Something feathery: a belt, a cap, some detailing will do. 4) Plat- The nautical inspired relaxing beachfront form shoes: the hippier, the bet- look: clear, fresh colors complemented by a ter. 5) Bermuda shorts in classy range of blue tones. New, modern essentials next shades of ecru, beige, black or to updated marine/sailor-inspired items – this is khaki. 6) Tiered skirt with lots of where the lightweight suits get their chance to embellishment. 7) Something make a comeback. Simplicity sets the tone - a python to clutch. 8) Something sporty but also well dressed theme. covered in sequins – anywhere, the more, the better. 9) Flat shoes Urban, fresh/springy look: a return to soft or sandals – with pointy toes. 10) femininity, mixed with more modern pieces for an Oversize necklace made of horn, individual style statement. Laura Ashley inspired coral or turquoise. ■ BC BG Max Aria Chanel

8 may have had an straightforward way to inject freshness into aversion to color their summer wardrobe. While spring suits Men in the past, but tend to stick to the staples of light grays Summer 2005 is changing that notion with and tans, color can be introduced with the veritable rainbow of colors to choose well-chosen accessories, allowing the con- from this season. With bold, bright hues fident man to show off his personal style. showing up in everything from polo shirts Expect the unexpected, as candy-colored to pocket squares, men of all ages and life- ties from Ermenegildo Zegna, pocket styles can instantly update their look by squares, socks and even belts add a dash of incorporating a jolt of color into their color to otherwise routine looks. Orange wardrobes this spring-summer. polka-dotted pocket squares, apple green "This trend in menswear towards striped ties and bright pink bowties are just bright color is exciting," says Larry Rosen some of the furnishings that can liven up a of Harry Rosen Inc. "We believe men are simple blue pinstriped suit. Striped shirts used to the tried and true blues and whites, in daring color combinations, such as and now they are looking for fresh ways to those from Milanese label Etro, that are put some vitality in their wardrobe. Taking paired with equally daring ties, offer an- a cue from women's wear, they're now other way to make a statement. ready to try intense hues of orange, pink, For those who might take a more adven- green and blue like never before. Color can turous and less conventional attitude to be seen just about everywhere in men's dressing - whether for a day at their office clothing - from casual looks to accessories or a night at the latest club - the slender, Alexander McQueen in tailored clothing.” narrow fit is all-important and continues to The new interest in color draws inspira- gain momentum, especially with regards to tion from the Ivy League, east coast- suits. inspired look of the 80s, but with a modern With a hint of British influence, slim update. In 2005 the unstructured sports jacket and pants, featuring higher armholes jacket becomes the central item to own. and narrow thighs, worn with equally slim- Soft, casual and unlined, this is not a con- cut shirts underneath, are featured promi- ventional sports jacket, but almost a piece nently for spring-summer. Suits, which are of outerwear that can be layered effort- often seen in a trim two-button style such lessly. In a solid color linen/wool/silk as the Gable Vegas cut from BOSS Hugo blend or cotton seersucker; and paired with Boss, are just as likely to be broken up as a gingham shirt, flat front pants and a worn together. The pairing of a suit jacket bright ribbon belt, this jacket is the epit- with distressed jeans and an open neck ome of the new attitude in sportswear dress shirt, matched with a pair of Prada dressing this spring. shoes, is an alternative look that easily Bright colored pique polo shirts are transitions from day to night. also key this season. Whether it's the retro For weekend casual dressing, athletic- vibe of Fred Perry, the classic Lacoste in inspired clothing such as the pieces by one of 15 new colors, or the new slimmer BOSS Hugo Boss Green and Orange La- Calvin Klein versions by BOSS and Burberry, the polo bel, lead the way. The growth of denim's knit represents an easy way to pick up a popularity shows no signs of slowing, with pinch of color and smart style at the same labels such as Seven, Dolce and Gabbana time. and Seal Kay offering the season's coolest For the businessman who prefers tradi- jeans. Zip-neck tops and a pair of dis- tional suiting, but still wants to stay current tressed jeans offer the perfect weekend and updated, spring's bold colors offer a look for the modern man. ■

Burberry Chanel Dolce & Gabbana Dior Givenchy

9 Consumers Fashion is a movement, a seasonal Thistle Bloom: This vintage, retro, and desire com- blending and layering. Three emerging antiqued dusky purple will be enhanced fort, stabil- directions influence the new color for with special effects such as metallics ity, and 2005: and pearlescents, and aluminized into security, but optimistically yearn for shimmer and glitz. When it behaves, it bright and fresh signs of a better world Rustic: antiqued, vintage, distressed, acts as a neutral in the softest tint, and to come. While special effects diminish, tea-dyed, dusky when muted is reminiscent of fog- colors appear to be infused with light Urban Sheen: layered special effects, dusted orchids and lilacs. Thistle Bloom from within. That optimism is reflected translucent, complex structures signals fashion's return to purple. in the color forecast for 2005.The pal- World Spiced: textured, refreshed Late Night Blue: As replacement for ette moves from soft pastels in modern basic shades reinterpreted black, this saturated blue gives depth, romance to the bright whites and vivid and indicates trust and respect for heri- tones of blue: Clay Pot: International spice blends tage, patriotism, the military and their with global rustic influences into a uniforms. It is denim morphed into the White - on its own worn head-to-toe or shade suitable for men, women, acces- darkest of hues, and become richer than mixed with brights sories and cosmetics. The solid shade, black in menswear, womenswear, acces- Pastels - muted and soft tones reflect- inspired by old tapestries, rug, and tex- sories and cosmetics. ing the mood for transparencies tiles is familiar and comforting. Sulphur - Khaki goes green and be- Brights - candy colored: turquoise, Good Earth: This rugged and rustic comes an urban survivalist shade. An lime, yellow, jade green, pink explorer adventures to red rock country edgy neutral with techno undertones, Neutrals - warm neutrals are used to- and metropolitan rock piles. This per- Sulphur enhances layering and can be gether in layered garments sonalized, aggressive protector is up- iridescent, translucent or shimmering. ■ Metallics - touches of metallics were country to urban for menswear, women- seen in most collections swear, accessories and cosmetics.

TAKES A SHINE: Wet, juicy bubble-gum lips are so deliciously come-hither that they're practically edi- ble. This seductive mouth pouted down the run- ways at Ralph Lauren, Prada and Chanel. The per- fect hair to match? A low updo, slightly mussed, but with polished texture.

WINGING IT: At YSL and Louis Vuitton, where Chris- tina Ricci stalked the runway, eye makeup took flight with Cleopatra-like wings. Public service an- nouncement: When eyes are this hot, lips should only be glossed. Pageant contestant is never a good look.

Like the porcelain dolls at Marni, Jil Sander, Luella WHITENING AGENT: Shimmer is the ne plus ultra. At Bartley and Anna Sui, you need to begin with pale vel- Helmut Lang and Yves Saint Laurent, eyelids were a vety skin. shining example.

10 THE BRONZE AGE: Roberto Cavalli's models looked as if they had stepped out of a 1970's Bain de Soleil advertisement (but with a few more layers of S.P.F. protec- tion). Our Advice—keep the hair undone, or even parted in the mid- dle, like it was at Chloe, Balenciaga and Stella McCartney.

Skin To get a healthy-looking complexion, apply some moisturizer with SPF before starting your makeup. You may well skip a moisturizing step if you use a sheer foundation with SPF, ap- plied to your entire face, plus a touch of concealer. Satiny Lips lightly powdered fair complexion is the key. Play down your mouth: touches of coral or pink are lovely, but skip the gloss. When it comes to your lipstick, the idea is to Eyebrows give a touch of pink - nothing too intense or too defined. It Natural and light, brushed upward and finished with a dab of doesn't really matter which shade you choose, as long as the clear gel. For a dramatic touch, sweep your eyebrows with finish is sheer. Dab on the lipstick and blend. As a final touch, metallic creamy eye color using a pointed eye shadow brush. apply a small amount of gloss, mainly in the centre of your mouth. No matter what color scheme you choose, use a light Eyes hand and remember that sheer color is always chic. Like a Metallic textures rule not in clothes only. Dab metallic eye breath of fresh spring air, spring-summer brings a return to shadow on your lids with a soft-bristled brush, first concen- pretty, feminine waves and loose curls. trating the color along the lash line and then spreading the excess up and over your top lid following the shape of your Shades of Color eye. This way, you achieve the sheer smoky eye. To prevent Spring-summer looks are all about color and shine. New this creasing begin by spreading a eye shadow primer, either flesh- season is a multi-tonal hair coloring technique, which balances toned or transparent. Less dramatic look can be achieved if several shades of complementary hair colors to project rich you choose a luminous powder eye shadow in shimmery beige depth and dimension. Color extending and protecting hair care or pink. Brush it over the lid, below the crease, and into the products will no doubt play a starring role because it prevents inner corner of your eye. To illuminate your look, dab some color fading and infuses moisture to protect against the dam- iridescent white eye shadow onto the inner eye corner. Blue aging effects of heat from hot rollers and hair dryers. eye shadow is big this summer, no matter how hard some makeup artists resist. To make blue eye shadow work for you, Show Off Your Fringes use a soft pencil in silver to color your upper lid. Pick the Bangs are worn slightly longer for the new season, with shade of denim or multi-dimensional blue that has some lengths ranging from cheekbone down to the chin. Longer golden or green undertones. Spread blue eyeshade with a bangs will also suit this sexy, flowing new look. slanted brush to create a more uniform, diffuse look. Layer It On Lashes Layers will go longer this summer. The best cutting technique Skip the eyeliner, but remember to apply two coats of black is to point cut and add texture to ends, as opposed to blunt mascara. Mascara is the crucial step in this makeup routine. lines. This delivers a natural, softer finish. Find a formula that's extra-black and that can be applied in thick coats. Spring-summer's more natural looks will be easier to achieve at home than the styled, polished curls of the past. So this year Cheeks has seen many new additions that largely focus on updated Highlight your cheeks with a flush of apricot blush, then dress technology to achieve various looks, such as volume, curls and up your T-zone with a bronzing powder. To enjoy a bronzed long-lasting hair color. ■ look, use a self-tanner or smooth on some bronzing powder.

11 rom oversized to mini, it's a T-Straps: Making almost every season of extremes. heel and toe versatile, t-strapped F shoe is your perfect dressy choice for an Hats: office party or a big Shield yourself from the rays meeting. Smart and pro- with a floppy hat; go as wide- fessional, they look well brimmed as you dare. Or, with pencil skirts, tai- make it short and neat. Alter- comeback to shoes and bags this season. lored pants, with natively, dress This sturdy fabric simply shines when opaque hosiery or fish- down in something sporty. worn with slinky silk or satin, and they nets. Cloche hats of felt with are absolutely lovely with jeans. Take it Flip-flops: This sum- visible saddle stitching or as a rule: textured shoes look great when mer flip-flops are the chunky bead embellishment paired with sleek, simple clothing - this height of casual chic. make for easy to wear hats puts the emphasis on your killer kicks! Decorated, metallic, that are not obtru- Wedge Heels:Wedge heels make an- silver, gold—they look sive. Complete your spring-summer other comeback, Wedge heel offers you good teamed up with look with floppy hats in bright colors. a great comfort plus capri pants, skirts, same slimming bene- shorts, slim fit jeans fits as stiletto, and and wide legged pants. Shoes: they look equally Shoes this good with cropped season are far pants or a skirt. from ordinary: Bags: Boots: The boot frenzy is still strong. Huge oversize bags tower over they boast The trendiest boots right rounded toes, micro styles. Seventies-style now are knee-high, and handbags will be a popular vivid colors, their style evolved to rich ornamen- choice, as will burgundy, mid- dramatically pointed night blue tation, and toes and spiky metallic still remain and choco- heels, or to sensible late brown Commes des extremely flats and sporty wres- classic (and rectangular leather tling boots. The former bags with skinny classy!). are best worn with eve- Boots tend to straps. By day Calvin Klein ning dresses and pencil chunky handbags be either flat skirts; the latter with or very deco- with straps and hard- fuller skirts, jeans, pants ware almost like rated and or even leggings. sexy. hold alls will be the Cozy Boots: Wearing fashion bag many Rounded your miniskirt with Toes: Shoe adopt. Anya Hind- Balenciaga shearling boots – no march and Jimmy shape took a matter, real or faux – is step in the comfy direction Choo produce a workable bag capacious hot! Warm and comfort- enough to hold a book or small bottle of with the reintroduction of able, from more afford- rounded toes. The styles Anna Sui water whilst remaining stylish. Ruched able Emu from Austra- leather sack size bags which have a straddle the 40s and 70s, with lia to pricier versions by Donna Karan round toes showing up on everything squashy appearance and appear over- and Michael Kors. from peek-a-boo, strappy heels to knee- Bows and Brooches: Lady- high leather boots. like details are front and cen- Rounded toes look ter, providing subtle retro pol- great for the office ish to even the most casual or with casual outfit. Bowed shoes and boots clothes, and cut-out are especially suited to full round toes are oh so skirts, chiffon blouses and sexy when paired cropped cigarette pants. Same with tweeds or vel- with jewel touches: they adorn vet pants! both toes and heels, and look Tweed Shoes: great either with jeans or a Hounds-tooth and little black dress. (Continued on page 13) herringbone make a Chanel

12 (Continued from page 12) studs. Yet in the came a normal fashion before we even UK Chandelier had chance to sized make an appearance against bum style earrings are buy new ones bags set to return amid sporty types. By more popular than in bou- night streamlined animal ever and the tribal/ tiques. Just skin clutch bags with real boho look is set to as suddenly or mock croc or python ef- create even more they were fects will vie with small dangling styles of nowhere to be beaded bags. Whilst under- strings, ropes and seen. What a arm bags have held stage for tiers of decorative pity - they can some years there is evidence units from metal be cute and of longer small neat shoul- discs to jelly bean my research der bags with strap to the plastic beads. It seems suggests indi- hip and worn across the like only yesterday that viduals like body making a slow return. we abandoned those them. So Straw and jute totes are must-haves. diamond studs. Colored let's put them Little purses with long straps will also gems like Aquamarine, back on. be so much more easier to manage when Peridot, Amethyst, Ci- you are out there having fun. trine and stones like Belts green Beryl, Jade and Matching JEWELRY Turquoise have gained narrow fabric Tribal beads: One big fashion which fresh followers. New covered has already style chandelier ear- skinny tai- taken off is the rings like straight stiletto sticks are com- lored belts trend for tribal ing in. and buckles beads whether Cocktail and dress rings: 2005 sees the are used to wooden or return of enormous cocktail emphasize the bone or plas- or dress rings, chunky gothic 50's feel to BC BG tic. The look poison rings and rings known clothes, is chunky as gobstopper rings. Dress whilst deep wide belts in crafts inspired, rings are also perfect on soft leathers, sometimes ethnic arts and hands that show the wrist jeweled, studded, woven or crafts and al- zones of the new cropped ethnic coined will be worn set mostly at most what one jackets with shorter sleeves. hip level and make the body appear might imagine Bracelets: With three quarter longer. Alternatives include obis sash a cannibal and elbow cropped sleeves belts cord belts and purses that dangle Anna Sui might don. gaining momentum the off belts. In addition to time is ripe for the won- tribal beads look out for derful art deco Estate styled bracelets on of- Sun Shades Middle eastern and Indian This season set the streets ablaze in your art and crafts inspired coin fer. The boho version is of semi precious carved flamboyant glasses. Sunglasses do not jewelry where strings of just to protect your eyes but leave an coins create an ethnic Boho stones or plastics in cuff wide bangles with black, impression look. Snake bracelets, about you. gladiator cuffs and narrow amber, rusty coral and deep yellow gold being A new pair wrist bangles worn by the of glares can dozen are all fashions you the colors that look right. Big statement bring out can wear now and keep new facets wearing this summer. One jewelry is back in fash- ion. Rappers made bling of your per- of the best takes on this sonality. If tribal/ethnic jewelry look is fashionable. But some- times less is more. you want others to feel your presence of chunky turquoise bead then wear glasses which are not only in rope necklaces wrapped Brooches: It's worth mentioning that vogue but also represent your personal around and around the style. neck. Ropes of pearls brooches have dived as fast as they rose. The problem seems to The latest sunglasses come from the worn twenties style are also stables of Versace, Roberto Cavalli, in vogue. have been overkill. Everyone who al- ready had a brooch or acquired one from Hugo Boss and Calvin Klein. So what Earrings: In Hollywood are you waiting for, the new range of there was a decline in huge grandma was happy to instantly pin them to lapel the minute they heard sunglasses cater to all kinds of looks– chandelier style earrings in the demure to the drop-dead gorgeous favor of larger diamond brooches were ok and suddenly brooches were everywhere. They be- appearance. ■

13 Advances made in the yarns used for crochet (colors, tex- tures, thickness) have made it easier to incorporate the tech- nique into modern clothing designs. The choice of stitch and the amount of tension also affect the way the crochet drapes and contours the body. And the use of embellishments, such as crochet covered with embroidery or encrusted with beads or n fabrics, surface interest enhances and enriches color semiprecious stones, has also helped to update the look. With while adding dimension and depth this season. Look for the prices of designer clothing skyrocketing, the idea of pur- I dimensional patterning and functional finishes in shirt- chasing a piece of clothing that will stand the test of time ing's, cottons blended with hi-tech fibers, puckered and multi- seems like a smart investment. Add to that the appeal of wear- colored seersuckers - clean, crisp and sturdy fabrics such as ing something handmade and unique, and it will be difficult to canvas and twill, vibrant prints, lighter weight denims with say no. cleaner appearances and discreet linear patterns. Vegetal dyed natural blends such as cotton/linen and cotton/hemp, washed White denim is back down effects, highly textured knits, unfinished edges and Tight, white cropped jeans are once again the height of hip. mixed weaves are in demand. Wrinkle-resistant and mechani- Joss Stone, Kate Moss, Nicole Kidman, Gwyneth Paltrow, cal stretch cotton fabrics dominate, as do thick and thin yarn Uma Thurman and Jennifer Aniston seem to be wearing little constructions, localized pucker, novelty knits, pin-tuck pleat- e l s e . Meanwhile, white jeans by Marc Jacobs, ing and open weaves. Seek highly mercerized fabrics for mol- James, 7 For All Mankind and Earnest Sewn ten sheen, cotton/silk and cotton/nylon blends, me- have soared to the top of waiting lists at sev- tallic threads and accents for opales- eral London boutiques. cence, sparkle and glitter - inter- Several factors have contributed to their active benefits such as breath- renaissance in the 21st century. "White ability, moisture wicking, UV denim is a good alternative to the current protection and anti-microbial fin- uniform of heels, blue jeans and a sexy top ishes is the hot new trend for sum- that women have been wearing for the mer. Terries, sculpted and patterned past four seasons," says Suzanne Pendle- knits, piqués, mesh textures and bury, denim buyer at Harvey Nichols. fleece blends with light pile are all "White is even better at going from day performance driven. Refined twills, to evening than dark denim, and bleached effects, lightweight and cropped styles are popular because cleaner denim, discreet linear patterns, they allow you to show off really sexy combination weaves and embossed shoes." There are plenty of styles to cords and add substance and depth. choose from, from boot cut and wide-leg to Capris and crops. Gap is at the forefront of the trend, and the Crochet is hot this season! store's new face, singer Joss Stone, The hottest trend this season is crochet. wears white bell-shaped ultra low But this season those summer-of-love rise jeans in its new ad campaign. images will be replaced by stylish looks Other styles include skinny, from the likes of Chanel, Prada, Marc Ja- cropped cuffed Capris, city shorts cobs, Stella McCartney and Roberto in "vintage" white denim with roll-ups just Cavalli. These are just a few of the designers below the knee, low-rise styles and wide-leg flares. Also who have used new technology to bring cro- on the high street, New Look has versions with brown seams chet and the world of handicrafts into the modern age and button-down flap pockets. The most popular white jeans while also celebrating its history. brands at the Matches boutique in Notting Hill include Balen- McCartney, whose crochet bathing suit is worn by Jennifer ciaga, Dolce & Gabbana and Notify (worn by Gwyneth Pal- Lopez on CD insert of her "Rebirth" album, was one of the trow), though Superfine "tight as tights" styles have sold out. first designers to introduce crochet into her collection. For At The Cross and Mimi, James' "Frankie" white jeans, worn McCartney, the appeal of crochet is not only its history but by Uma Thurman are selling well. also its versatility. "I like the feminine and delicate texture of Remember, it's a summery look, stick to pretty peasanty crochet and the fact that it is handmade," she said. "It is also layers. There are plenty of printed, Empire-line tops around quite modern as you can interpret it less literally by using the which complement and update white jeans. Accessories are same techniques but with different fabrics. In this day and age, vital: a plaited belt should be teamed with flat sandals or high I feel it is important for the industry to keep such techniques wedges, ethnic beads, pale sunglasses and a skinny scarf, Joss alive." The use of crochet this season was as inventive as it Stone-style, cropped, military style Chloé jackets; peasant tops was diverse. At Fendi it gave a textured and dramatic focus to with a bit of sparkle; rock logo T-shirts, stripy nautical tops, the waist of a diaphanous gown. At Chanel it was used as ac- boho kaftans, skinny scarf (around neck or tied in hair), metal- cents on bell sleeves and hemlines. And at Prada it appeared lic wedges, simple flatties or plimsolls (if you are wearing on the runway as quirky accessories in the form of oversize wide-leg styles), big studded belts, colorful ethnic beads, giant necklaces, hats and multicolored flats. "Jackie O" sunglasses.

14 15 On the runways—Bill Blass, Alberta Ferretti, Dries Van Noten, Dior, Chanel.

In the stores—Gap, Ann Taylor

In the stores: Ann Taylor Store

PRO SHOP: You're sure to score in spring-summer’s winning sports shirts.

From top to bottom: 1.Gap striped polo shirt, $30. Go to www.gap.com. 2.D&G cotton striped polo shirt, $275. At D&G SoHo, 434 West Broadway. 3.Valentino R.E.D. cotton polo shirt, $295. At Valentino boutiques. 4.Versus striped cotton rugby shirt, $365. At Versace boutiques. 5.Izod cotton polo shirt, $48. At Macy's stores. 6.Dries Van Noten polo shirt, $245. At Scoop stores. 7.Nautica striped cotton polo shirt, $53. At selected Macy's stores. 8.Lacoste cotton polo shirt, $85. Call (800) 452-2678. 9.Original Penguin cotton polo shirt, $49. Go to www.originalpenguin.com. 10.Miu Miu striped nylon-blend polo shirt, $410. At selected Miu Miu stores. 11.Champion 1919 Collection striped rugby shirt, $40. Go to www.champion1919.com.

JC Penney Stores

16 In the stores—Nordstrom, Polo Ralph Lauren, Gap.

On the runways—Commes des Garcons

On the runways—Emanuel Ungaro, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta, Marc Jacobs, Phoebe Philo and Alexander Mcqueen

In the stores—Gap

17 une 26 to July 2nd – Over- all through the 47 shows J and 53 presentations which made up the fashion week, the designers decreed that the summer of 2006 would be cool and relaxed, even when some Gucci styles — like Dolce and Gab- bana's plunging waistline — sneakers. For the more con- turned up the heat. More than a servative styles, designers search for lost elegance, there is offer leather slippers and a nostalgic 1960's "dolce vita" two-tone laced shoes. Wear- feel to some of the collections. ing socks is definitely out. There's a trunk-load of looks a guy can choose from for the • Neckties are no longer a summer of 2006 - from beach trend issue, but a matter of boy to ranch dude to yacht club personal choice. Other op- gent, the style emerging on the tions for next summer in- Milan catwalk during the week clude scarves, kerchiefs and of preview showings is all about bona fide necklaces. vacation and the good life. • Except for the usual kilt at • The upbeat mood of the sea- Vivienne Westwood, this son makes the printed shirt a round in white silk, there must — whether in paisley, were few gimmicky styles checks, or flowers designs. on the Milan catwalk. De- signers continue to push Versace • In the pants department, bathing briefs, but a visit to shorts replace Bermudas, any Italian beach will show while the favorite trouser cut that most guys here still pre- is straight up and down. fer their boxer trunks. Along with traditional men- swear colors, bright shades • The summer palette is all become fashionable and about white, beige and light white reigns supreme. gray, along with bright sum- mer fruit shades like peach, • Jeans abound, but that's not raspberry, lemon and lime. news. Denims have become Black is all but banished as essential to any wardrobe from the summer fashion as underwear. scene.

• Jackets tend to be shorter • The upbeat mood was best and closer fitting, but as soft acted out on the catwalk by as a cardigan. In the sweater young, clean-shaven models section, the V-neck is a with boyish haircuts. This must, usually in light or round the macho man had to even see-through fabric. share a back seat with the few playboy nostalgic left • Footwear reflects the all on the fashion scene. around relaxed mood from Clockwise: Vivien Westwood, Versace, Gianfranco Ferre, espadrilles, to sandals and Vivien Westwood, Versace & Versace.

18 19

Top Row: Jil Sander, Burberry, Jasper Conran, Valentino, Antonio Marras, D&G, & Alexander Mcqueen. 2nd Row: first 3—Versace, Exte & Prada. 3rd Row: first two Armani, Valentino, Gucci & Jasper Conran. 4th Row: Gianfranco Ferre, Etro, & Burberry. hat works on the sumers (incomes $75,000 and fashion runway is above) spend 138 times more W getting a workout than the average on home at home. Be assured that col- furnishings. She is also the ors and trends viewed on cat- author of a new book, Let walks in New York and Them Eat Cake: Marketing Europe are already finding Luxury to the Masses—as their way onto home’s best- well as the Classes, published dressed list this season and earlier this year by Dearborn into the fall. Trade Publishing. She says, But, what, you may ask, do “Luxury is no longer some- oranges and lime greens have thing out there, restricted by to do with fine linens, a mar- income levels, personal ket traditionally embedded in wealth, or spending budgets. safe, but traditional, whites It’s an experience everyone and beiges? Well, change is wants and believes they de- waking up the bedroom as serve. Today, everyone is part luxury options abound at of the luxury market.” every price point, and color is Color and design aside, bursting out all over. There is with so many products out a movement toward color in there being touted as fine luxury linens even though the linens in high thread-count category is dominated by cottons, it’s important for the Calvin Klein collections stitch and dye bedding—At Macy’s neutrals, we’re seeing warm consumer to rely on top qual- Regular $ 165.00, on sale $ 129.99 oranges and brown on top of ity brand names to make sure the bed, bolder prints and a they’re getting a truly luxuri- stronger palette in 100% cot- ous end product. Giorgio's ton solid-color sheeting. Edge bedclothes are about $5,000; treatments and embroideries and though sheets this luxu- on sheets are more colorful rious are an investment, heir- accents as well. looms to be handed down Among the palettes is one through the generations, Calvin Klein Bedding collection—available at Macy’s with slightly pink and warmer they're also very private tones with yellow accents and status symbols meant for a fashion colors, including select few. tangy papaya, tart citrus acid, Calvin Klein's sea-foamed sunny lemon custard and Shibori line pleases - as the golden mustard seed. Another sheets grow more appealing offers cool, crisp grays and and less pricey – there’s blues with lilac accents, and Donna Karan- her handker- then there is a whole range of chief-quality, Egyptian cot- enchanted greens. ton, woven-in-Italy ensemble Driving this desire for more is glorious to the touch, full- Ralph Lauren bedding collection—bed sheets—regular $20-73, on color is the younger upscale moon white and straight out sale: $ 14.99—57.99. Bedding : regular $ 365, on sale: 289.99 consumer who craves fashion of the chimera of romantic forward modern designs in duets, triangles and occa- fine linens in quality con- sional solo performances. Flat structions. . and fitted sheets, standard Pam Danziger, president of pillowcases, European shams Unity Marketing, which pub- and a duvet cover are a lishes consumer insight stud- smidge over $500, with tax. ies on the luxury market, Ah, to sleep like a millionaire girl. ■ Product photos Macy Stores maintains that luxury con- Tommy Hilfiger bedding collection– regular $200, $120 on sale

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A quality assurance company Testing Quality auditing Quality assurance Social compliance audits Yarn Woven apparel KnitwearHome Textiles 105-K Gulberg III, Lahore Pakistan. Phone 92-42-8435911 Cell: 92-300-8442280,92-300-4773977 Fax:92-42-668 0860 Email: [email protected] Website: www.alphatexlab.com 21 implicity is key for centering our kimonos and Mexican folk art give a speak of a new streamlined lifestyle that busier than busy lives, and this multi-ethnic dimension. is casual, comfortable and cathartic. For S is no truer than in the home area. young and old alike, today it’s cool to Smooth lines calm the chaos in our be hip. It’s no longer cold steel and Colors are clean, fresh and overall minds and soft fabrics make our homes glass. Even in more traditional settings, upbeat. Look for warm pink and red a refuge from the world. Loud prints contemporary elements are being in- are now replaced with monochromatic corporated for a more modern look. colors, with soothing palettes prevail- Color, in particular — long associated ing as a result. with a contemporary sensibility — is making a strong statement at home. Fabrics are an interesting mix of The consumer is showing more inter- est in brighter, more vivid colors. And hi-tech and natural in primitive, the surprising offerings in the market- slubbed and multi-textured fabrics. place at every price point make it Constructions such as jumbo otto- really easy. Chris Madden’s Resort mans, winter seersuckers and tweedy and Spa Collection will debut in JC effects provide the foundation. In Penney stores this year with a fresh, prints, look for pointillism, less dra- clean aesthetic in terms of style, color matic florals and cutout geometric and fabric. “It will have a cotton focus shapes. Damasks and brocades are in bed and bath,” says Madden. seen in a new light – not just as tradi- “Cotton, like my collections, is dura- tional upholstery materials, but re- ble, affordable and very stylish, and it worked with over dyes and vintage translates beautifully into modern de- effects. Needle punched fabrics, flock- signs. Younger consumers are more ing, subtle chenille yarns, velvets and tones, and neutrals such as stone, camel educated and they know what they like. wide wale corduroys are the mainstay of and green-tinged beiges for grounding. They are definitely looking for high this trend. Plaids and stripes are updated Blues are milky soft, reminiscent of quality products for the bed and bath, for bedding, toweling and table top, as faded tones, or are dark and intense. and they take into consideration many well as upholstery fabrics. Herring- factors like style, thread count and fin- bones, chevrons, matte sateen's, mole- Contemporary ishing techniques. skin and uncut cords take their inspira- Bed and bath: And picking out the bed ensemble and tion from menswear. Prints feature gets an extreme make over that’s easy to linens is more of a joint venture than small-scale stripes and pixelized, linear live with. Less is more, more or less. ever before. It’s no longer a contest and and graphic shapes. Fabrics using lots of While traditional continues to be the gender specific because there are so novelty yarns to create updated tweeds - style of choice, a new wave of contem- many linen options in bedding that are patchworks, piqués, jacquards and porary product is whetting the decorat- more in keeping with the shared lifestyle multi-colored wovens dominate, while ing appetite of consumers everywhere. in prints, oversized paisley, Japanese Clean, simple lines and strong palettes (Continued on page 23)

22 (Continued from page 22) of contemporary couples who want a look that is luxurious and most of all, comfortable. It’s a whole new sensibility. Couples are looking to make a more contemporary statement in the bed and bath, and most of all they desire a sense of luxury in high quality linens and towels. In the bedroom, their haven, couples are choosing fashion designer lifestyle looks lavender), would be very useful associated with a certain level of taste to the consumer and would add to and aesthetic and what it projects. They the value of the product. Me- know about quality sheets, good mat- chanical finishes such as light tresses and pillows. The bedroom has to brushing, or 100% cotton me- be indulgently comfortable — the one chanical stretch would also be place where they relax and rejuvenate good ways to create an enhanced themselves. sheeting product. The same goes for the bathroom. What are consumers looking “With the trend to display your towels for in their sheets? Cotton Incor- for all to see, the bar has been raised — porated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ the standard for towels is color, pattern, Home Fabrics Study sheds some quality and softness,” notes Poor of Cot- light on the answer. The features ton Incorporated. “And nothing softens rated “very important” by respon- the cold surfaces of the bathroom more dents were softness (86%), dura- than a tower of fluffy towels.” bility (75%), price (71%), life of Consumers can rejoice. Bed linen product (65%) and color (67%), manufacturers are waking up to the fact with bacteria-resistant treatment that helping people enjoy a better (25%) and brand name (10%) night’s sleep may be more about techni- rounding out the list. The three cal innovation and less about thread most important sheet purchase counts. Companies are raising the bar on factors, according to survey par- Ralph Lauren studio towels at Macy’s traditional, today’s consumer desires to assert his or her individuality at home and is demanding product that is differ- ent and unique. Upholstery fabrics today also are a mix of sheens, lusters and matte, there is little lag time in the trans- lation of high fashion looks walking down the runway into fashionable up- holstery statements to sit on at home. Tweeds, for example, popular in ready- to-wear, are turning up in upholstery as sheet development with better yarn con- ticipants, were size/fit, softness and du- multicolored, chunky, textural fabrics structions, improved finishing tech- rability. right out of the fashion pages. Another niques, and new technical expertise. In trend is the preppy look — with a twist. fact, many of the same performance- UPHOLSTERY: Chairs and sofas Whether woven or printed, an upbeat enhancing features that have been suc- palette is creating the biggest market- have never looked better. A wide range cessfully incorporated into apparel, are place buzz with an emphasis on crisp, of upholstery options along with finish- making their way into home. Sheeting clear and fresh. There are variations of ing details such as fringe, cording, bul- can be differentiated almost entirely pinks, oranges, fresh greens, and icy lion, gimp, and even beading are turning through finishing alone, Chemistry- blues, while earth tones are shown upholstered pieces into homey works of based finishes such as wrinkle-resistant alongside brights.■ art. From an upscale casual approach, to formulas, or micro-encapsulation of contemporary, to more formal British scents that encourage relaxation (such as Product photos from JC Penny Store & Macy’s

23 have always been interested in the 6. They treat intimidating difficult anatomy of mistakes. Mistakes obstacles as temporary impediments I happen in all kinds of corporate to be removed or overcome. cultures, across the board, globally. Mis- 7. They never hesitate to return to the takes are covered up and white washed. strategies and tactics that made They are hidden so deep that sometimes them and their companies success- it would take a combination of intuition, ful in the first place.” intelligence, time and persistence to uncover them. Most executives don’t “Perhaps the single most important have the luxury and mistakes are al- indicator of potential executive failure is lowed to be filed away quickly with the one that is hardest to precisely de- incorrect data and causes. Not only is fine – the question of character. A per- this practice unfair, it also causes the son who has high ethical standards and underlying causes to remain undetected deep competence, who desires to suc- too long and it eventually destroys the ceed by helping others to be better than whole organization. they would otherwise be on their own, Early this year, I came across a marvel- who can face reality even when its un- ous book by Professor Finkelstein that pleasant and acknowledge when some- answers the greatest mystery in the thing is wrong, and who engenders trust world – why smart executives fail? It’s a and promotes honesty in the organiza- hard-hitting yet entertaining book that tions they create and lead. That may gets to the heart of the matter. It’s in- sound like a tall order, but the real prob- structive, smart, and by focusing his “The seven Habits of spectacularly un- lem is that some of the executives at the research and story telling on the roots of successful people” according to Finkel- helm of companies we’ve profiled in corporate failures, Professor Finkelstein stein’s thesis are: this book weren’t even close. Tony Gal- demonstrates a unique talent for identi- 1. “They see themselves and their ban, a D&O underwriter at Chubb, ze- fying important business lessons that companies as dominating their en- roed right in on this issue: ‘the three should be obvious but are not. “Despite vironments, not simply responding things behind every bad D&O liability the vast numbers of things that could go to the developments in those envi- situation are greed, cronyism, and de- wrong in something as complex as busi- ronments. nial.’ Even many of the scrupulously ness enterprises, the really devastating 2. They identify so completely with honest executives we studied – and there failures turned out to have a surprisingly the company that there is no clear were many- stumbled when they could- limited number of causes. This is one of boundary between their personal n’t accept the reality of changed world. the major findings of the study. Patterns interests and corporate interests. For these executives, the problem was- of failure emerged that could be applied 3. They seem to have all the answers, n’t of ethics, but of defensiveness,” de- not only to the scores of classic, almost often dazzling people with the clares Finkelstein. common business breakdowns – think speed and decisiveness with which It is a compelling thesis— a must- Rubbermaid, L.A. Gear, Barneys- but they can deal with challenging is- read for business leaders and corporate also to the internet one-year wonders sues. executives. ■ and the rogue companies that have 4. They make sure that everyone is dominated the news over the past two 100 percent behind them, ruthlessly About the author: Sydney Finkelstein is years. The case histories and results eliminating anyone who might un- Steven Roth Professor of Management from our research are laid out in three dermine their efforts. at Dartmouth’s Tuck School of Business. sections: ‘Great corporate mistakes,’ 5. They are consummate company His writing has appeared in the Har- ‘The causes of failure,’ and ‘Learning spokespersons, often devoting the vard Business Review and other busi- from mistakes,’ ” asserts Finkelstein in largest portion of their efforts to ness journals. He lives in Hanover, New his book. managing and developing the com- Hampshire, USA. pany image.

24 li Sher has been quietly making his music and show- casing his work on the fringes of the music channels A for quite some time. He first caught my eye with his song “Sham”. His song came on air and I switched the chan- nel. My mom stopped me. She loved that song and she made me watch it with her…the video wasn’t all that good but the vocals and the lyrics were pretty good. My mom made a point of listening to that song whenever it was aired and she hap- pened to be watching. Ali’s music is certainly different from everyone else’s. It’s more serious for one thing – it appeals to more mature audience who appreciates a good piece of music which is well written and it has a very distinct sound with a couple of his songs influenced by a bit of sufi and folk. His second album “man marzi” is not hard on the ears at all even though the mu- sic wouldn’t sound out of place in a disco. You can dance to the beat even on his sad numbers. “I listen to a lot of techno, trance music and even Indian songs. I guess it has influenced my compositions. My first album ‘Yadon Mei’ was mostly techno... I am told I have a good singing voice but I am a com- poser first – I wanted my compositions to shine so I didn’t pay as much attention to the production end of my work in the first or second album. I have paid more attention to the sound mix- ing for my third album. I get a lot of job satisfaction from my work; however, I admit it’s not very commercially driven.” Talking about his current work in progress, Ali says “My music has matured. The vocals have improved. I have used a lot of live instruments. The sound is crisp. I have experi- mented a lot for this album – it’s very peppy.” Ali’s lyrics are not autobiographical. “A good friend of mine does most of my lyrics – sometimes, I have already writ- ten a tune and I want lyrics to fit and sometimes, I describe the scene and he writes me a song accordingly and then I compose the music. It’s very situational. Mostly Shakeel writes my mu- sic – another good source for lyrics is Khawaja Pervaiz.” Video’s are very important and influence the way a song pretty ordinary and didn’t do anything for the song. Same is will be received by the audience - I found it strange that his the case for “Hijr.” His title song “tan, mun, dhun” currently videos don’t do justice to his music. His videos depict ordi- playing on the music channels from his third album is a little nary lives caught on camera, though the village girl in “Chan different – there’s a little bit of dance in it which is going Sajjna” looked as if she had robbed the make up technique and beautifully with the beat and actually complements the song. wardrobe from a Punjabi film. “Piyar ki saada” was a nice Ali has showcased all his work through Jawad Bashir song but the video was pretty confusing. Till the end I could- with only one video titled Piyar Kar by a new company called n’t figure out that Natty was supposed to be yelling at a Talking Filmain. “Jawad is a very good friend - I am very Ghost!! Talk about living haunting the dead! I loved “main comfortable with him – besides, we are on the same wave- tay mann lae haar” – a good song and a simple video that did- length about my music. Furthermore, he doesn’t have a hang n’t detract from the sound but actually complemented it for a up about big budgets and he is a pretty flexible director – I change. “Doorian” was another good song but the video was don’t see any problems with my videos.” ■

25 ollywood star An- thanked for his efforts to gelina Jolie tops help the beleaguered H Harpers and peoples who have sought Queen's list of global beau- shelter in his country. ties, compiled by 1,000 ex- Literally millions of Af- perts from the worlds of ghans have been pouring fashion, arts, the media and, into Pakistan since 1979 peculiarly, plastic surgery when the Soviet Union for the July issue. first invaded. With the Angelina Jolie is an exotic country now under the combination of beauty, tal- control of coalition ent and deadly charm. She is forces, some refugees open to anything and has have begun returning proven, through her diverse home, but there are still film career and choice in an estimated three mil- husbands, that she's willing lion living in Pakistan. to try anything at least once. Angelina's devotion to With starring roles in movies human rights issues is like Hackers, Gia, The Bone already well known. Collector, Gone in Sixty Since she first agreed to Seconds, Lara Croft: Tomb collaborate with the Raider and Alexander, UNHCR in 2001 she has there's no doubt that Ange- traveled to camps in lina has the ability to take on Russia, Africa, Asia and an array of characters. And the Middle East. And considering that she's a Goodwill Am- back pocket. And of course, she has the having already adopted her son Maddox bassador for the United Nations, not to Golden Globe and Oscar awards to in Cambodia, the actress - who channels mention that she prove it. millions of pounds of her own money adopted a baby With filming completed on her latest into relief efforts - says she is planning Cambodian boy, movie Mr And Mrs Smith, Angelina to adopt another orphan before long. it's quite obvious Jolie has been getting back to the work Angelina has starred in a slew of films that she's got a she says is most important to her. The including Gone in Sixty Seconds (2000) heart of gold to Oscar-winning actress jetted into Paki- with Nicolas Cage, Lara Croft: Tomb boot... She admits stan early May in her role as a goodwill Raider (2001), for which Angelina is that the most im- ambassador for the United Nations High proud to say she did her own stunts, portant person in Commission for Refugees. Original Sin (2001) with Antonio Ban- her life is her Respectfully dressed in a traditional deras, Life Or Something Like It (2002), newly adopted shalwar kameez, the brunette beauty Lara Croft Tomb Raider: The Cradle of child, Maddox, visited some of the Afghan refugees Life (2003), and Beyond Borders and, as long as who fled their country to escape the (2003). In 2004, Angelina kept busy he's healthy, that's ravages of war. She also chatted with starring in movies like Taking Lives, all she cares some of the many families now living at Sky Captain and the World of Tomor- about. As for tal- the Kacha Ghari Repatriation Centre row, Alexander, Shark Tale, Mr. and ent, Angelina has outside Peshawar. Mrs. Smith, and Love and Honor.■ an impressive list The 29-year-old also met up with of films in her Prime Minister Shaukat Aziz, whom she

26 had never met Ahmed Butt be- across as a devil-may-care, very self fore in my life. I wasn’t sure what assured kind of person with in your I to expect when I gave him a call face honesty that can offend. He does- for an interview. He sounded curt – he n’t mince his words. I liked it. told me his correct name is not Ahmed He tried to make an effort to be hospi- inspired from the local pop industry – Butt but Ahmed Ali Butt. For a minute table by telling me to make myself com- it’s a story of a college where eight to there I was a little worried that I may fortable and called his mom on his cell ten characters aspire to be musicians – have called the wrong Butt after all. He phone to send over some refreshments. my character wants to be Shafaqat Ama- told me to give him a call after 8:00 and Either he doesn’t talk to his mom all that nat Ali when he grows up. The play is he would let me know where to come much or it’s the opposite. Anyway, he really about how you start and how you and do his interview. I quickly hunted still manages to sound like a loving son. make it in the music scene. 19 episodes down my EP CD and looked up his Which is it? I decide not to go there… have already been aired.” name. I had called the correct Ahmed besides, it could all be acting for my Speaking about his future aspirations, Butt after all. Thank God! I had prior benefit anyway. Ahmed says, “I am more interested in appointments but who the heck cared? “I have been acting all my life…I direction now. Rubber band is my direc- When this particular celebrity wanted turned professional back in ’94. Before torial debut. I am in the process of re- me to jump, the appropriate response that I did a lot of school plays. I could ducing the number of acting jobs – I am could only be how high? So I gave him mimic my teachers and I was the only planning to do more direction but not a call after eight. He told me to get to one who had the guts to do it to their right now. Another play that I am acting McDonald’s at 10:00 and he would give face. One friend suggested that I do a in is inspector Khojee a spoof of various me the directions from there…hmm, play for a private production while still detectives for PTV. The lead character what kind of joint was he running any- at FC College, ‘Arsenic and old lace.’ solves crimes. Again, I am working for way? the rest is history. I became addicted.” the same basic team – Zain Ahmed/ I was punctual. He wasn’t. I returned He started his own professional theat- Vasey Chaudhry. Then, I am acting in home. He returned my calls half an hour rical company while still studying at FC another serial in September/October. later…so we rescheduled the appoint- College. “I started my own company. I I’ll take time out to direct my own se- ment for the next day. I was supposed to didn’t study for the whole four years – rial. I also have plans to direct a movie give him a call at 4:00. It was beginning just looked for sponsors and put up the- probably will be able do so in 2 years if to feel like the middle of twilight zone. atrical productions. Then I did Maula all goes to plan. I am also considering a Next day, he told me to meet him at his Jutt and fortunately, Vasey Chaudhry movie offer. I haven’t ruled it out – I place at 7:00 p.m. I requested directions. happened to see my work.” may end up doing this movie if the Boy, did he give me directions! He “I have not always been doing comedy script and team turns out ok and people made a simple straightforward way roles” says Ahmed. “During my theatre are of the same wavelength.” sound real complicated. I was ready to days – I have done serious roles too – I Ahmed loves his job, “my social & climb the walls by the time I got to his played a hunch back, a mad scientist, personal life has become a little re- place. Talk about a wild goose chase! even a murderous father who kills his stricted because of my career commit- First thing he said to me was “all jour- own daughter in the name of honor… I ments. Fame has consequences. But at nalists are stupid”. I was amused but I was happy and satisfied with my work the end of the day it’s worth it because I wasn’t about to let him get away with it considering the limitations. I did about love my work. Anybody can be on Tele- so I said that he should be careful – I six to seven years of theatre. Then I met vision. People who last are true to their could write real weird stuff about him. Zain Ahmed and we did Jutt & Bond art. I have no hang ups working with He told me he didn’t care. An actor together for television. It was a sit-com. new people, the more you work, the who didn’t care about bad press? This I knew Fawad from the under ground more you learn. As long as the director was getting way too interesting. scene from before. So Zain as the direc- knows what he wants from his actors, Well, first impressions – his room tor, Vasey Chaudhry as the writer and things work out. There is conflict some- looks like a typical bachelor pad cut off Fawad and I in the lead role – we did the times if the director doesn’t know what from the main living area with its own play and it turned out well.” he is doing. However, I am a flexible separate entrance. It’s pretty clean for a Ahmed is also currently starring in a person and I have learnt to deal with guy’s room. The exercise machine takes sit-com called Rubber Band. “ Rubber conflict – rule number one - leave your the pride of the place. Ahmed comes Band is about serious musicians who get ego at the door.” ■

27 hailand is one of the most visited countries in Asia, 11 Sadia, on the ferry, taking a tour of the Phi, Phi island and Krabi. million visitors annually, because of its accessibility T and extensive tourism infrastructure. In Thailand, ful. We had hired a travel agent who made all the flight ar- you'll find fabulous architecture, beautiful beaches and is- rangements for us. We stayed at the Holiday Inn. This proved lands, inexpensive shopping, fantastic food, exotic ancient to be a good choice as it’s quite central and suited our needs ruins - and all the amenities as well. The balance between perfectly. We wanted to be in the middle of the city.” comfort and excitement is near perfect. Unfortunately, the “We hired a motor bike and went exploring Phuket and tsunamis that struck Southeast Asia in December 2004 dealt a the neighboring islands on our own,” says Sadia. “It was fun. serious blow to Thailand's tourism infrastructure: The wide- Hiring a motorbike proved to be another good decision as we spread damage to coastal areas in southern Thailand took the were mobile and ended up saving a lot of money on transpor- lives of more tourists than Thais. The hardest-hit regions were tation.” Phang-Nga, Phuket and Krabi provinces, including popular Sadia and her husband spent most of their stay at Patong. resort areas in Phuket and Phi Phi Island. In addition, many “Everything’s there. Ocean, sea sports, restaurants, clubs, small fishing villages were completely destroyed. bars…we ended up spending most of our holiday at Patong. It Sadia had a great time in Phuket, luckily before the disas- was very crowded. It was also fun and relaxing. We also ex- ter struck. Speaking about her holiday brings a reminiscent plored Kata beach, Krabi and Phi Phi Island. We used to take smile to her face. “The first thing that hits you over the plane off right after breakfast and spent most of the day on the road. is the beautiful blue ocean. And the next thing that you see is We took a tour of the Phi Phi Island before it was destroyed by the extreme cleanliness. It’s all very proper and very organ- the Tsunami. We went snorkeling. It was interesting but I was ized.” very scared. My husband had a good time. We were planning “There is no direct flight to Phuket. There is three to four to do a bit of parasailing but the timings were a bit of a clash hours layover at the Bangkok airport. You need to change so we didn’t do it in the end.” terminals and pick up your flight for Phuket from the Bangkok Sadia and her husband also spent their time exploring airport. The plane journey is about four to five hours give or Andaman Beach on Phuket. “It was so depressing. It’s very take. I don’t recommend shopping at the Bangkok airport big, very beautiful and very deserted. It looked abandoned – I though, it’s quite expensive.” didn’t see a single soul over there. All the major five start ho- Sadia and her husband did some forward planning right at tels are there including the Banyan tree hotel resort. The beach the start of their travel. “We looked for the hotel over the had white sands though.” internet, read up on Thailand before embarking on our jour- The highlight of Sadia’s holiday was the massage. “Their ney. We also took a bunch of maps with us which proved use- (Continued on page 29)

28 (Continued from page 28) massage is out of this world. It’s very relax- ing. It was so good that I spaced out for a bit.” Sadia loved the buffet breakfast at the Holiday Inn. “The ho- tel had the most amaz- ing buffet breakfast on offer. There were so many choices.” Sadia not only loved the food at breakfast, she was equally impressed with lunch and dinner cui- sines. “We loved the food. The helpings were pretty big but the food was not at all heavy. Eating all that food doesn’t make you sick. My husband tried most of the sea food Ahsan & Sadia, having a good time together, on the bike, at the beach, snorkeling, taking a tour of Krabi. dishes on offer. He had crabs, shrimps, and Sea food platter, in fact he tried everything. I had Thai curries and rice mostly. The atmosphere in most restaurants and road side food bars is good. The restaurants don’t stay open past midnight – however, there are many road side café’s and eating places. The food is equally good over there and they stay open till the early hours of the morning.” Speaking of the nightlife at Phuket, Sadia says, “It was an eye opener for me. We explored a bit of the city at night. There are street pubs, Go Go bars, disco’s and clubs. I saw a lot of weird stuff. For example, I keepers. He forcibly tried to take my old bracelet had never seen such a from me that I was trying to match up with a neck- huge gathering of lace from his shop. I guess he thought I had stolen it transvestites at a sin- or something. We had a big scene. I totally lost my gle place before! I had cool and ended up calling him all kinds of names in a photo taken with one Urdu at the top of my voice. My husband stepped in guy who looked so and saved the day.” like a woman that you Sadia thinks holiday in Thailand is easy on the couldn’t tell he was purse and gives you a chance to truly relax and have not. I didn’t see very a great time. “How many times can you go to ex- young women over pensive places for a holiday? We spent four nights there despite the popular rumor. We even went to a strip club and five days in Phuket – it cost us only hundred and fifteen to see what the hype was all about. I was totally disgusted. I thousand for the tickets and the hotel stay. The food, transport, didn’t like the place at all.” entertainment and shopping expenses were extra. Holiday in Shopping is substandard in Phuket and Bangkok accord- Thailand is economical, you get to visit a foreign place, do a ing to Sadia even in the high end stores. “I only bought local bit of sight seeing, relax on one of the most beautiful white crafts, carvings and typical tourist souvenirs. Shopping in sanded beaches, laze around in your deck chair, take a stroll Bangkok was very expensive. High-end designer labels are along the seashore, read a book. If you feel a quick energy more expensive than Dubai, even London. Off the rack, didn’t burst, you can explore the ocean, go parasailing, or hire a boat see any nice materials. Shopping in USA and UK is more fun and go fishing and snorkeling around the coast. If that sounds since you find good stuff in moderate price points too. Size too energetic, you can have a pedicure or a massage under the limitation is one problem. Language barrier is another. I had a shade of the tree, or just relax and sip your fresh coconut… bit of row on the last day of my visit with one of the shop what else do you need?”

29 Ingredients: temperature adjustment, set it at 375 degrees and heat until 3 large onions (about 9 to 11 light goes out.) ounces each), peeled and trimmed Drop batter- 1 cup lentil flour coated onion rings 3/4 teaspoon salt into hot oil (about 1/4 teaspoon pepper 10 to 20 at a 1 cup vinegar time). Fry 2 to 4 Vegetable oil minutes or until crisp. Drain on Directions: paper towels be- Cut onions crosswise into 1/2-inch fore serving. slices; pull apart into rings. (Refrigerate broken or end Makes 6 servings. pieces for other uses.) Combine flour, salt and pepper in large bowl. Stir in 1 cup vinegar, beating with wire whip. Variation: Add 2 teaspoons dried Baked version: Toss onion rings in batter. Transfer to thyme, chili pow- plate, letting excess drip off as you transfer. Heat about 1 der and ground tablespoon oil in large12-inch nonstick skillet over me- cumin to batter. dium-high heat. Place about half the onion rings in single After baking or layer in heated skillet, cook until browned, turning once, frying, sprinkle about 1-1/2 minutes on each side. Repeat with remaining crispy rings with onions. Transfer to un-greased shallow baking pans or additional chili cookie sheets, arranging in single layer. Bake at 425 de- powder, ground grees for 6 minutes, or until crisp. Makes 6 servings. cumin or bottled Deep-fried version: Heat at least 2 inches oil in deep-fryer for pepper blends, if desired. 5 to 10 minutes or according to fryer directions. (If fryer has a

ahore—A new restaurant opened in Liberty opposite serving disposable drinks but it’s easier to manage than getting the Shoppe. It’s cool, funky and compact. The ambi- the bottles filled from the coke distributors! It would be easier L ance is great. It’s quiet at lunch time because Lahore to open a restaurant if you own the premises, in the end we has not discovered it yet. The prices are moderate and are had to settle for Liberty and just go for it. Business is begin- comparable to McDonald’s. The food is fresh and tastes great. ning to pick up. It’s hard to open up a new business in any The French fries are served as a separate dish. area but it’s harder to do so in the food industry. They are worth it. Hey I am not kidding. Not Business is cut-throat in Lahore. Advertising many people know the genuine art of making doesn’t help much. How many people do you French fries. know who have gone to a restaurant after read- We tried the burgers since we were in a ing a bill board? Besides, it’s a costly exercise to hurry but didn’t want to go to McDonald’s. Food advertise. You would end up paying a huge bill Mood passed on all major areas. The service is advertising your wares – it’s not certain that you quick. The place is quiet. The prices charged for would get your money’s worth. We are relying the food are reasonable. The kitchen looks clean. on word of mouth to spread the word about our There are number of deals on offer and the food restaurant. We have spent the money on the is not half bad. The décor would fit a much lar- food, the people and the place. You need to ger restaurant – its all black leather seats with make a lot of capital investment if you want to steel and glass table fittings. We managed to speak to the co- make it in this industry. The electricity bill, the food bill, the owner of the place. “It’s not easy breaking into the food mar- staff bill is huge. Many restaurants end up going bankrupt in a ket. We have lured the cooks away from the Bangers and matter of months.” Mash restaurants in Karachi! As far as the ambiance and price “The rent alone on MM Alam Road is hundred and fifty points are concerned, we are comparable to McDonald’s.” thousand per month. It’s not easy or possible to run a restau- Discussing restaurant management, Asad says, “Stocking rant on a shoe string! You get only one shot. If you miss, you soft drinks is a big hassle. No doubt it increases the overheads go bust!”

30 ausheen Saeed teaches at the support my work. I find it interesting National College of Arts but that people would like to pay for my N that’s her day job. She is really work but that’s not the purpose of my a sculptor. “I turned professional in creativity. People, who try to make 1991 when I graduated from NCA. I had their creativity their livelihood, in the started doing projects from 1988. I long run, may have to compromise on chose sculpture as my major because it the quality of their work. Since per- involves a lot of physical work – you fection is the ultimate goal, some become part of the material.” work may never get resolved. You Discussing the technique, she says, may have to abandon your work. “I enjoy the technique of mold casting. I There’s a point where you have to like to use natural everyday materials – draw the line – true perfection is not fiber, clay, plaster, fabric, soap, bread. attainable. Looking back, I always These are all the tangible materials. I think I could have done better. You have appreciation. Nowadays, art has only have also used non-tangible substance to gauge, keep a physical standard, a one value – price.” like text and light. Once I made a three sort of mental deadline – your work is “The opportunity for commercial dimensional text with leaves put to- actually about looking at yourself. How art is there too, but I believe ideas gether. That sculpture had a physical long can you look at yourself in the mir- should generate fresh ideas. Quality and feel – the form and text complemented ror? I can’t bear to look at my work af- job satisfaction is more important than each other. I did this in Poland. I also ter I finish it. I get embarrassed. It’s a heavy output of work and third rate did a sculpture for a hospital, in London blessing my mom has a large house and pieces. Everything has become commer- – I used non tangible material – lights. I I can hide, store finished pieces. I also cial. I believe in art for the sake of fresh- blocked a space and played with differ- give my work away to friends.” ness and growth. You can make money ent lights to make an interesting form. Talking about the general state of from related fields. You can do projects Surroundings inspire you and change art in the country, Nausheen remarks, to generate money – you don’t have to you – in London, I guess I was home- “It’s a pity that there are not many pub- own that work. Art should be purely sick – so text came into my work, natu- lic art galleries & museums where peo- about self expression. An idea that is in rally” ple can go and look at art. Artists’ work realm of art will always find a niche, a Nausheen is currently working on a should be on display – it should be part market – the purpose should be thinking series of sculptures based upon the fe- of the permanent collections. Art is for of original ideas, self expression – not male figures. “I am doing various stud- everyone. It gives you a boost if you can making the same item over and over ies of female form using different mate- sell your artwork, however, I don’t be- again for the purpose of making money. rials – the form is cast in fabric but it is lieve money should be the sole purpose It kills creativity which is more impor- a nude body. All the materials I use in for creating art. No doubt art is priced tant in my opinion.” my work are substitute for the body – high and only the rich can afford it. Bur Talking about her students, even the edible stuff. It goes hand in perception about art needs to be Nausheen says, “there is not a lot of hand. It’s just not another material but changed. Art education and government difference between art students of then part of the form.” policies can play a big role in making art and now. Focus used to be on art in my Nausheen gets a lot of job satisfac- mainstream and accessible to the student days. Now the student focus has tion from her work. “I enjoy my work. I masses. Art should be part of your ordi- become divided. There is more aware- even tell my students – pick a subject nary life; it needs to be part of your ness but little maturity. I think one rea- that won’t bore you in the long run. My thinking process. It should enhance and son for this immaturity is that NCA im- work is my catharsis. It makes me hone your creativity. No doubt art in posed an age limit. The policy has been happy. You are always in the mood for Pakistan is only for the elite. People revised to allow mature students to work because when you start work – don’t know what and who the artists are. study art. People who are really inter- your mood and enthusiasm develops Art could become main-stream. Rich ested and serious about art are coming accordingly.” people can afford to patronize the arts to study now. Attitudes are bound to Sculpture is labor of love for but that’s also confined to hanging origi- improve.” Nausheen. “I teach to earn a living to nal art in their homes. It’s not about true

31 aneeza likes to dress to please herself. “I V like very casual, nor- mal clothes—really under- stated. I don’t have any par- ticular style as such. I basi- cally wear what I feel like— period.”

hmed is an indifferent dresser. “My clothes depend on my mood. I usually wear jeans A and a li is a conservative dresser. “My collar shirt personal style could be de- though I am a scribed as moderately conserva- huge t shirt fan. I A tive. I don’t have separate wardrobes for love sandals. I my work or my personal life. I prefer don’t dress up jeans and a tee-shirt for all occasions. even when I have Even when I dress up, the basics remain to dress up. I can the same. The top is slightly more retro/ get away with it contemporary and jeans are probably a because people lot cleaner, fresher funkier but that’s think I am a ce- about it. I wear a lot of Diesel and Zara. lebrity!” From the local brands, I like ABCD.”■

ausheen likes to be dressed just right. “ I want to look professional N and trendy without being overly decked up but I am not a fashion slave nor a victim. You could call me a conservative dresser who likes to blend in by minimally following the trends. I made the eastern look cool at NCA. I started a trend all by myself ahsir believes your clothes with the paranda in my hair.” should fit the occasion. “I Y believe in wearing the right clothes for each occasion so my clothes depend on what I am doing at that particular point. I uddus likes to dress in natural actually don’t think about clothes. fabrics and eastern clothes.“ I However, this is the first thing Q people notice about you. And peo- used to wear linen shirts and trousers a lot. But now I love wearing ple do express themselves through hand loomed Khaddi Kurta and white clothes. Personal style develops cotton Shalwar. I feel comfortable and after making a lot of mistakes. this look fits most occasions and ac- Usually I like to wear chino’s and tivities.” a collar shirt. I believe people should enjoy what they wear. They shouldn’t feel self conscious. I don’t mind wearing clothes that stand out.”

32 akistani women love to Neutral, soft pastel colors are hot, in floral and dress-up in elaborate en- geometric prints, mostly paired with white shal- P sembles even when out wars. Elaborate shalwar treatments are cool again shopping. However, the trend with boot cut and wide hemmed shalwars coming seems to be going out of fashion back in fashion. this season. Lahore bazaars are Most women are pairing the stole with their tops curiously deserted in the heat of instead of doing three piece treatments. Light- summer afternoons. The mercury weight georgettes, summery floral chiffons, mus- is consistently rising in the city— lins, voile and light-weight hand loomed averaging around 45 degree centi- (Khaddar) fabrics are highly in demand this sum- grade easily. Women are not im- mer, while Chicken-Kari & Bareeze fabric never mune to this heat. They are dress- go out of style rain ing more for coolness than style or shine, winter or on the streets of Lahore. No more elaborate ensembles. In- summer. June 05 stead simple silhouettes, basic styling, palest colors, and the most light-weight fabrics abound. From shortest to medium and knee-length shirts are still hot depending on the age group—older women are more conservative in the shirt lengths while younger women are opting for the shortest lengths possible. The trend for baggier, fuller shalwars is on its way out, probably because it requires a ten meter fabric to construct a most basic Patiala Shalwar. Sleeve length seems to be optional—short, half, three quarter and full sleeve depending on individual preference.

33 ahore, May 28 2005 –The challenge?? To build one complete outfit in a limited L budget! 12:00 noon – start at Generation boutique. Eve- rything is above our budget. The editor is ada- mant that she will not increase the budget no matter what. God, I am supposed to put together a trendy outfit and the money is tight! Besides she won’t let me buy fabric and get it stitched. It has to be prêt a porter! Why me? Sigh. 12:30 afternoon start at liberty market. Decide to be methodical. There are dresses and there are Noon—at Generation dresses. Nothing looks good at the price I want. 12:45 – take the plunge and try on three dresses. gests that we go to Panorama for the pant. The price range 650 bucks. Yeah, yeah – who’s 5:30 – Panorama. Major bummer. Nothing looks bright idea was it anyway? I look like a reject good. The jeans here are really expensive. Most from Salvation Army jumble sale! The fit is sales guys are trying to sell men’s 501 Levi’s as shocking! I can’t try on the shalwar! No elastic. women’s jeans. They think I don’t know what I We move on to another boutique. And then, an- am talking about?! I work for an American store! other one and then another one. Why am I look- I want to kill the genius who suggested we try ing for an eastern outfit anyway? At this rate, the Panorama. Well, back to Pace. I am tired. My whole day will be gone and I won’t have any- editor is tired. And my ex-friend is bored...we try thing to show for it. the cargo pants, we try the Khaki chino. God, Its 3:00 p.m. already. Let’s do lunch. I am hun- nothing seems to work. They are charging 700- gry. We sit down and eat. Consult each other and 900 for a khaki pant…our best bet is to buy a decide to try our luck at the main boulevard nice pair of jeans! At a Liberty boutique, in malls. First Chen one... 7:00 p.m. We are on the third floor. My feet search of that perfect suit— 4:00 p.m. park the car at Chen one. The parking ache. My head ache’s. I am bored and frustrated trendy, hip and in my budget! guys are bloody thieves. They charge 20 bucks and my editor looks ready to kill me and her- for one hour parking…luckily I am being bank self…after trying on about 10 pairs of jeans, ok, rolled by the magazine. Well, Chen one! The we finally bid on one—it looks ok. Its not a bril- clothes are very nice. Ok, I see this really nice liant look but who the heck cares at this point? outfit in black and white – sleeveless top, white The rise should be lower. Oh well, it takes a shalwar and nice tie and dye dupatta. I try it while for Pakistan to catch on to the trends. The on…hmmm, the shalwar doesn’t look all that guy starts at 650. we tell him, we will buy the good with this shirt. 850. oh! Oh! They are sell- pant but only at 400 and that’s it. The guy ing separates too. I see this very nice boot cut agrees. God, finally! Now we have to do the trouser that I can team up with a nice top! Price accessories! We decide to drop by at the café 450. Well, things are looking up. first…I want some tea and I want it now!!! Let’s go to Pace…hmmm, I consult my watch – Yikes! Its 8:30 already. My mom will kill me. its after 5:00 p.m.. three floors up and down and We decide to call it a day. Set another appoint- nothing to show for it. We have been trying to ment for Thursday. Need to put together the ac- bargain but nobody will budge an inch from their cessories and do the photo-shoot next. price!!! Who are they kidding? You can buy a Thursday 1:00 p.m.—good news—my editor whole suit for 650 and here we are talking about has increased the budget! Thank God for small one measly top! Well, my friend spots this cool mercies. Finally, the whole outfit is ready. The shirt. Its for 400 rupees. We bring the guy down shoes cost 700, the bag costs 600, the jewelry to 300 and we have a deal. Finally! We quickly costs 100 and the belt costs 400. Grand Total run back to Chen one. Try on both trousers – 2500. Yeah! I did it. Not a penny wasted. Give At Chen one, the Idea flops! black and white….hmmm, the rise is kind of me five. ■ weird on this trouser, doesn’t team well with the top - my brilliant idea is a flop! My friend sug-

34 Credits: Official shopper & model for this story: Saima Zaidi. She’s a sourcing assistant at an American discount’s stores’ buying office. Main photograph: Mr. Ijaz at Rollo Studios. Details: see page 68 35 e have a mature couture industry in Pakistan and our specialty – especially intricate work – our signature stitch- specifically Lahore. TKFR decided to speak to work is the Dabka. We need minimum of 30 days for work- W two of the oldest and most trusted names in the manship, if heavier embellishment is required, it may take business because our featured bride Sophia Jehangir-Qayoom longer. We also do the groom’s wedding clothes,” says Mr. loves their work - Barkat Ali Saree walay Barkat Ali.. Prices start from twenty thou- and Ruby Jewelers. sand onwards. This couture house was established in “Jewelry trends are very consistent,” de- 1955 and has been serving generations of clares Ather-ur-Rehman, partner at Ruby families by making beautifully hand- Jewelers, another old and trusted name. crafted pieces – a virtual work of art that “Traditional jewelry in oxidized gold is has been preserved and handed down pretty hot. Brides like to match their bridal from generation to generation as a fitting dresses and their jewelry.” legacy of by-gone era. Ruby Jewelers has third generation in- “Traditional silhouettes are still in house designers, old traditional craftspeo- vogue,” asserts Mr. Barkat Ali. ple that have learnt the art of jewelry mak- “Lehengah, Gharara, Bohpali, though the ing from their fore-fathers. Ruby Jewelers stitch-work is mixed - sequences, Dabka, also maintains extensive archives of their stones, Kat Dana.” “White is the hot new work. “We are the Tiffany’s of Lahore,” bridal color,” continues Mr. Barkat Ali. asserts Ather. “Indian influence on jewelry “Though, traditional colors like red and is pretty heavy now. Our own traditional maroon have not lost their appeal in the jewelry motifs are more floral in nature, wedding trousseau. Rose pink is another while their jewelry is full of sculpted reli- new color which is in high demand. We gious forms.” are using a lot of rich fabrics for our cou- Ruby Jewelers are planning to expand by ture pieces - pure silk, Jamawar, Zar- opening another branch in Y Block, de- bakht, and variations of embossed fab- fence in the near future. “Opening ten new rics.” stores is not that important,” says Ather. Discussing the growth and changing “It’s more important to have a superior customer tastes in the couture industry, Mr. Barkat Ali recalls, product line and unmatched craftsmanship. We pride our- “in the past, we had only a limited range of patterns and colors selves in catering to upscale high end customers.” to choose from, workmanship was also limited - Nakshi, “Gold prices do not impact jewelry sales – it’s a secondary dabka, salma in gold or silver threads only. Now there is more issue. Jewelry making is a specialized craft. People are more innovation in terms of embellishment – for example: stones interested in the designs,” explains Ather. and bead-work – we are also using rainbow of colors in all Ruby Jewelers also export their crafts to USA. “We are kinds of embellishment techniques. Tastes have changed. Now mainly selling through exhibitions. We are exporting to even traditional embellishment techniques are being done up United States already and we have shown our work in Eng- in new ways – for example traditional techniques but innova- land. Industry has grown 200%. There were only three jewel- tive colors – salma, nakshi, dabka. Traditional patterns are ers back in 1957.” being cut in a new way too.” “There is no special secret of success,” says Ather. “You “Media is very strong in changing people’s tastes. We are in need to move with the times and stay consistent. Innovate, get the business of pleasing our customers. We provide our ser- new technologies, and explore new avenues of growth. Slow vices, customers bring their design ideas – embellishment is and steady wins the race.”

Most of us think we know couture from haute couture. had 35,000 regular customers during its heyday after World War II, FYI Both are the same except for only one basic difference. has an ever-shrinking regular buying base of about 1,200 people COUTURE: is the French word for "sewing." Clothes that are fitted worldwide today. Couture is also known as made-to-measure. and sewn specifically for a client, often requiring several fittings for HAUTE COUTURE: means "high sewing," and is the term reserved an exacting fit are called couture. The clothes may be specifically exclusively by those European fashion houses that offer made-to- designed for the client, such as a one-of-a-kind wedding dress or a measure apparel in or around Paris and belong to the Fédération one-of-a-kind red carpet ensemble, or they may be part of a de- Française de la Couture (which began as the Chambre Syndicale de la signer's couture collection, which are the pieces the designer shows Haute Couture in 1868 by Charles Frederick Worth). Following strict that are available for custom fit. Typically, couture pieces are made guidelines regarding number of pieces shown per collection and num- of fine fabrics or feature extensive hand work (like beading or em- ber of collections shown per year, current members include venerable broidery) that drive up the price to thousands or even tens of thou- fashion houses like Balenciaga, Chanel, Hermès, and Valentino. sands PER PIECE. Because of the cost, couture clothing, which once

36 Sophia is wearing a traditional wedding dress. Concept designed by Senior Mrs. Qayoom for her daughter in law for the Walima reception. 37 Details see page 68. My main focus was the bridal dress and the jewelry,” “Designers are a little unprofessional in their approach. The says Fatima. “I visited a lot of designers – for exam- delivery was a big hassle across the board,” recalls Fatima. “I “ ple, Hassan Shaharyar - I didn’t like his work mainly started preparing for an end March wedding in August. It gave because there is no exclusivity, he is doing the same me eight months which I thought was plenty of time. But kind of work for everyone. Hajra Hayat’s apparently, this is not enough for most couture work seems overpriced as she is doing typi- houses and bridal boutiques. Tailoring was an- cal Anarkali motifs. Sonia Azhar’s work other major problem - I had to go in many gets copied a lot by the Liberty retail- times for alterations, one outfit was totally ers. I also visited Nikki & Nina, ruined beyond repair. My one major Imbias and Lajwanti. My cousin’s tension was the clothes part of the bridal outfit by Lajwanti helped trousseau. I ordered my bridal dress me crystallize my own decision. in October, was supposed to get it Besides, I liked a motif on one by December but I actually got it of their Sarong outfits. I end February,” says one disap- asked them to convert it for a pointed Fatima. “Designer cou- Lehenga. I took my time in ture is very expensive in La- choosing a color but the hore. Prices are excessive for final choice for me was a basic silhouettes. Why would subtle shade of pink for my you spend forty to fifty thou- bridal outfit. I didn’t want sand on a basic Shalwar, a typical red. I asked them Kameeze suit, regardless of to use two shades of pink – embellishment? Why would on the embellishment and the designers even ask for on the dupatta. I was ex- such a price?” says a surprised pecting more embellish- Fatima. ment on the Lehenga con- Hair and make-up for her wed- sidering their charges but ding was done by Anny at Al- generally I was pleased with lenora and by Ather Shahzad for the outcome.” Her Walima the Walima. “Facial was in- dress was made by Satrangi in cluded in the bridal package,” a subtle shade of blue. says Fatima. “You are supposed to “For the jewelry, again, we get it done two weeks prior to your went all over the place: Ruby wedding.” Jewelers, Sonica, Karat, searched a Fatima was a modern –looking bride. lot of magazines, I liked one ear ring “I didn’t want the traditional look for design so we ended up designing the myself,” confirms Fatima. “I have my whole concept around this piece,” says own sense of style, which I fully exploited Fatima. They chose a family friend from while designing my trousseau. I wanted wearable Kenya to make the wedding Jewelry. (Kamran clothes that don’t sit in the cupboards but get worn Jewelers) –“We showed him our concept and he then did the occasionally. I think I achieved my objective.” actual work. We also got the Walima Jewelry from him.” Fatima got her shoes, bags and make-up from abroad. “You Fatima made sixty outfits for her trousseau. “It was a mix only get married once so the expense of buying high end bag but I only made ten outfits with real heavy embellishment. brands is justified,” explains Fatima, mitigating the expense of The rest of the outfits were more evening clothes than bridal buying Estee Lauder and Lancom for her trousseau and top of clothes. I didn’t have a particular color scheme in mind when I the range brands for her shoes and bags. “I gave away my started out. I organized the trousseau with the help of a cousin regular wardrobe, though I kept some of the new stuff,” says & a friend, choosing designers, boutiques, fabrics, colors my- Fatima smilingly. self. Most of the clothes were made to order. I also had to do The bridal furniture came from Designers Guild, and the the wedding clothes for my in-laws as most of them were accessories from Bajwas. abroad at the time.” Details, see page 68

38 39 By Mystique. They plan to give Nirala, Shezan was cut-throat but that’s nothing to the and Gourmet a run for their antics that our food industry gets up to. ssst…did you money—the only problem being Speaking of rag trade, His Royal hear the latest? they are so far out that they Crankiness has left town. I guess he was P I thought all don’t pose any competition! pretty broken up over the fact that I had top models in our fashion Business is brisk as these baker- stopped picking on him. Well, I promise industry are highly edu- ies as they earn quite a hefty to start on him again. All he has to do is cated and civilized hu- buck at tea times on the sly! Not come back. Somebody please let him man beings. Well, I was to mention the place called Hot know he is depriving me of my favorite wrong. One model defi- Fusion & Dunkin Donuts that sport. Unfortunately, I thought I had nitely needs to go back have seating arrangements to go gotten over this childish habit but what to school and learn po- with the bakery stuff…hmmm, the heck good habits die hard! In other liteness. I unfortunately suddenly Lahore is the place that AMC news, Raza Ahmed, (Keshi’s hus- had an encounter with can fit in people with the British band) has joined AMC as a DMM. He her which definitely left habit of having Hi-tea at the dot was the country manager of TMS Group a bad taste in my mouth. for five months before joining “Who is this?” a hysterical AMC. Hmmm, I know the inside female voice screeched in my scoop but I ain’t telling you guys. ear. I was a little shocked but I Tamseel replaced Raza at TMS. She calmly asked if this was -----? was working for Gulistan Group of Instead of confirming the companies before joining TMS. Mr. name, the same shrill voice Mahmood Janjua ex-Levi’s, ex- screeched in my ear again. Warnaco, & ex-Vf fame has bought “Who is this?” I was totally a Chevrolet franchise in Iqbal put off with the full scale hys- Town. His buying house Integrity is terics at the start of our con- also doing well I hear—however, versation but I still made an Shazia and Sadaf have left it to pur- effort by staying calm & polite sue some other career interests. - I told her my name and the Things are happening in our local fact that she didn’t know me. rag trade pretty quick. Rumor has it This was strictly not true but Liz Fischer was in town recently. she wouldn’t have remem- She met a lot of vendors on the bered me. We had met such a long time of four ‘o clock. What else do you need? quiet. She was shopping for an agent. ago that it was practically true. The lady I know, a pub where you can meet for Most of you probably already know that cut me off in mid sentence to say drinks at the happy hour. Any ideas? she had left Warnaco to join Polo Jeans. sharply, “in that case, why are you call- Hey, what did you think I meant? Of Good for Pakistan. Bring ‘em on. Shu ing me?” I go in a typical straight for- course, non-alcoholic drinks. This is a Tan (Phillip Van Huesen) was also in ward fashion, “because I would like to Muslim country. town. Yes, our little town is getting interview you!” “I don’t talk to people A little bird told me the real reason for some well deserved attention and from like that.” And with that, the lady Tiffin’s demise. Remember the hot new the right people this time. banged the phone down on me. Hmmm, restaurant on M.M. Alam road near sub- Ali Sher has finally broken an old re- my mistake – I should have known bet- way? Tiffin’s closed down because of a cord. He has tried a new video director ter. With an attitude like that who would certain competition down the road. They for his hot new number called Piyar Kar. want to talk to her anyway? Our blond felt very insecure and threatened and Yes, sir, it’s no longer Mr. Jawad Bashir bombshell can’t sell a paper bag with arranged a bit of sabotage to bring them - hats off to Mr. Sher for taking a risk her attitude but she’s supposed to be one down to size. An army of cockroaches and trying someone else for a change. of our top models selling clothes, cars were arranged and a couple of waiters Nasir Khan is the cool new discovery – and whatnot. Wonders never cease! bribed to put them down on food. a part of a dynamic creative duo that’s Masoom’s just branched out —they Things started happening. Voila, the taking Lahore by storm called talking have opened another outlet in Defence restaurant closed down pretty quick af- filmain. It’s a relatively new company DD Block, calling it the pancake lounge. ter that. I always thought the rag trade (Continued on page 86)

40 eal clothes for real people made by real people...

Adil is wearing a print tee in a fresh new hot color—turquoise, a trend for men for summer 2006. The print tee is by CK Jeans. The low rise, distressed jean is by Diesel, the hottest new trend seen on most of the fashion runways in the Milan fashion week-June 26-July 2nd for summer 2006. 41 This page: Adil is wearing a print tee by cK jeans. Shah- rukh is also wearing a tee by ck Jeans & the low rise Jean by by Denim & Co. Saima is wearing a low rise stretch cross hatch denim Jean by 20X, a Vf brand, and a tee by Tommy Jeans

42 Opposite page: Shahrukh is wearing a printed tee by cK jeans. 43 Real stuff for real people:

This page: Adil is wearing a printed tee by cK Jeans, jeans by Deisel. Opposite page: Adil is wearing a printed tee by cK Jeans. Saima is wearing a red tee by Tommy Hilfiger, Inset: Green tee by Tommy Jeans, yellow tee by Tommy Jeans, grey tee by Levi’s signature brand, black tee by 20X. Boot cut stretch jeans by 20X Details: see page 68

44 45 ver gone to your closet in the morning and wished that E somehow, someway, closet elves had visited in the night and left you a whole new set of clothes? Well, that’s the precise result you get when you start using clothing capsules. They’re the easiest, sim- plest way to extend your wardrobe, and once you understand how they work, you’ll be amazed at what’s in your closet. A clothing capsule is a group of 5- 12 pieces that work in combination with each other. They can be com- plimentary colors, have similar ele- ments, or be of the same pattern. When you use clothing capsules, you break up your tried and true combinations to create fabulous ensembles. Same number of clothes, eight times as many combinations. It’s a fabulous way to make a little go a long way.

Start with a plan. Arrange your closet by type of clothing, hanging all shirts to- gether, all pants together, break up suits—mix and match. Start wearing your clothes in totally different combina- tions—mix a khaki pant with a black shirt. Finally, make a note of what you could use to extend your wardrobe even further: belts, scarves—by process of elimi- nation, these become your must have pieces.

Clothing capsules are a great way to build and rebuild your wardrobe. Start with a few pieces, add a few more, and top with trendy, inexpen- sive accessories for a fresh look any- time. Once you master this simple ward- robe strategy, you’ll never look at your closet the same way again. You’ll never have to travel heavy anymore, because with a few well chosen pieces and a little imagina- tion, you can make a little do a lot. Try it yourself and see!

46 Source: Diana Pemberton-Sikes. Slip into these comfortable business casuals for work— This page: Shirt by Zara, stretch twill boot cut pants by Wrangler. Inset: White shirt by Esprit, white boot cut stretch pants by Wrangler. Opposite page: plaid shirt inspired by Gap, pants by Wrangler. Inset: Black solid shirt by Gap. Khaki pants by Wrangler. Shoes by Esprit. Details: see page 68.

47

eisureeisure

48 Leisure Textiles Pvt. Ltd. 1.5 KM Defence Road, off 23 KM Multan Road, Lahore, Pakistan. Telephone: 92-42-754 0371-6. Fax: 92-42-754 0378. Email: [email protected] 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 Credits Label: Yahsir Waheed prints On the web: www.yahsirwaheed.com Photographer: Yahya Mansoor Model: Jenny Location: Mykonos, Greece Fashion layout: Yahsir Waheed

56 ISO 9001/14001 CERTIFIED

The knitwear Company 57 Atta Buksh Rd, 17 Km Ferozpur Rd, Lahore– Pakistan Ph: +92-42-111-111-116, Fax: +92-42-582-0112, email: [email protected] ahore is going through an intense heat wave. The bazaars in Lahore are empty of shoppers. The business at restaurants, cafés, green grocers, departmental stores and bakeries is brisk and business as usual. However, the apparel, home ware L and accessories sales are down. Apparel & life style shopping: “Sales are usually down at this time of the year,” asserts the sales manager at the Collections boutique, Fortress stadium. “Residents of Lahore do not buy from us anyway. Our real customers are the tour- ists who come in from other cities. May, June and July are comparatively slow months in terms of sales.” One reason that sales in ready to wear category are down is obviously because RTW is a challenge to sell in Pakistan in most seasons. Consumers can copy the trendy designs from the leading designer boutiques and get their tailors to custom fit in half the price. During our survey, we noticed a serious lack of good designs, cuts, colors and fit across the board. The fact that the sales people also are not very helpful and do not know much about the merchandise they are selling could be another factor in the low sales. Nee Punhal and Generation are two boutiques that are doing a better job at sell- ing RTW even at this time of the year – business is steady if not brisk. “Pastel colors are selling more than white,” claims the sales manager at the Nee Punhal boutique. “Pink is a hot seller for us,” asserts the man- ager at Generation. A sleeveless fitted shirt and boot cut pant seems to be the favorite pattern at Nee Punhal. “Our STK style is a sell-out,” claims the manager at Nee Punhal. The suit is teamed with a net stole in light, toning color. Nee Punhal also stocks evening wear in chiffons, organza, raw silk and silk cotton. The clothes have become slightly revealing over the years. Notice a halter neck teamed with a long skirt and long slits at the sides. Are the slits there for ease of movement or is this an at- tempt to make the outfit a tad revealing? “The Indian channels have a lot to do with the chang- ing tastes of our customers,” remarks the sales manager justi- fying such a drastic change in the silhouettes.

(Continued on page 59)

58 (Continued from page 58)

A lack of basic marketing strategy, poor inventory control, bad design and inadequate pricing strategy seem to dog most apparel stores in Lahore. They also need trained staff with emphasis on basic manners. Insulting the customer directly or indirectly will not induce them into buying your product. Besides, the designs and materials for the apparel line seem to be mediocre. Nothing sets them apart. The same kind of designs can be found everywhere & sometimes for half the price. Prices are moderate to high but sadly no shoppers. Then, there are stores that cater to life styles—Chen One, Nishat Linen and Khaddi. In terms of better displays, more variety in inven- tory and designer exclusivity – Chen One and Khaddi seem bet- ter shopping experiences, with Nishat Linen offering better price points. However, again, didn’t see many shoppers at the stores. Is it the hot weather or the fact that they stock luxury items & seem to be generally high priced?

Shoes, bags & accessories: Urban Sole, Bata, Stylo and ECS are the four venues surveyed for shopping. Bata has nation-wide appeal and brand recognition. However, as far as price points are concerned, Stylo wins the pricing and hot design war with ECS coming a close second. Urban Sole has trendy and com- fortable shoes in a variety of colors and assortments— however, their price points start from 500 onwards. Bata’s Marie Claire brand is clearly a winner though, again the price point is high. Overall, accessory shop- ping seems to be a more reward- ing experience in Lahore. “Business is slow,” says Saif, the sales manager at the Gift Shop, M.M. Alam Road. “People are not coming out of their homes – it’s so hot outside.”

Interiors: Sheer fabrics like Organza and tissue are hot for cool window treatments in the summer. There is a new emphasis on silk for sofa fabric in rainbow of colors. Jewel like colors are hot right now with rich, sheer and lustrous feel to them. June 2005

For photo details, page 68

59 imple wicker/cane and wrought iron metal solutions that look good and are practical S too. Metal & wood combination work too.

60 rought iron metal solutions are ideal W for the bathroom storage needs. They save wear and tear and prove worthy in- vestment in the long run. A creative solution for your stor- age needs that also looks good and proves to be more cost effective than conventional wood and mirror combina- tions. Creative wicker basket solutions keep your closet neat and clutter free. A tasteful ad- dition to your home. Mesh pockets for inside of your closet door is another good one. Solutions by JC Penney, Macy’s & Wal-mart Stores

61 akistan fortunately has a rich heritage of creative arts. cessories that were made in Pakistan. Our take on keeping the Pottery, embroidery, wrought iron, metal works, heav- traditional crafts alive in a purely contemporary living envi- P ily carved wooden furniture, and carpets. Our crafts- ronment – in the west, such works of art usually belong in a men still create beautiful pieces of interior accessories that can museum or in great homes open to public. We are indeed a create a rich and creative ambiance to any place. We don’t lucky nation. A little goes a long way. need to import any other cultural influences to make our places comfortable and tasteful—we have enough creative Opposite page: Farrah’s embellishment collection. For details, see expression at home. Here are a few examples of interior ac- page 68

62 For details, pls. see page 68

63 Lahore – designers, buyers and vendors are preparing for summer 2006. Things are hectic right now. Deadlines are looming. Vendors have started receiving buyers’ color palettes, fabric direction and pattern and style sheets and they need to prepare for placement meetings. What are the summer 2006 best seller trends for apparel? In color trends, “for men, it’s all the wrong colors”, says Adil Sher, merchan- dise manager at Linmark international – “parrot green, turquoise and light candy colors.” “The color palette is quite mixed – dark colors, pastels and neutrals are all mixed together. You can’t call them distinctly summer colors – more like for all seasons,” asserts Abdul Majeed, the merchandise manager at Leisure Tex- tiles. “Colors for summer 2006 women’s lines will be bright and beach- tropical - Corals, aqua, turquoise, and Chartreuse. Bold Pucci-like prints will be found on tiny jackets, knit tops, and flowing skirts,” declares Julie Johnston, the American Eagle—men’s summer essentials product designer at Meridian Sourcing spring 2006 and this will continue for USA. summer 2006. Chaps, Ck jeans, Roc- more flared at the hem, really exagger- In fabric trends, Tariq Shabbir, the cawear and Nautica are all buying basic ated. Slim fit pants are form- fitting.” merchandise manager at Combined Fab- yarn dye polo’s from us.” Adil Sher a Tariq Shabbir, the merchandise manager rics feels, “blends are hot. Buyer is buyer at Linmark international for Ck at Combined fabrics also confirms “polo working on a lot of fabric finishes.” jeans wear agrees with Majeed, is the must have item on our entire buy- “Fabrics are pretty basic” adds Ma- “Silhouettes are pretty basic. Polo is still ers list, though the twist is in the fabric jeed. “Jersey’s, pique’s with a the best seller for summer finishes. We are doing a lot of yarn dye little bit of novelty provided by 2006, though, the patterns silk wash polo’s.” textures and jacquards in 210- have slimmed down. Slim- “The brilliant knit shrug will progress 220 fabric weight.” “Sheer fit low rise pants for men are into various types, such as tiny cropped fabrics will continue to flourish real hot. The boot cut is jackets and sheer cover-ups,” concludes and be seen as whole garments Julie for women’s summer as well as trims/accents for 2006 lines. women’s summer 2006 lines,” For denim Adil’s take on the adds Julie Johnston, the prod- summer trends, “sand blasting, uct designer at Meridian sourc- flat finish denim with no tex- ing. ture is the new trend. The fa- Abdul Majeed, the merchan- vorite jean color is with green- dise manager at Leisure Tex- ish brown tint, a very light blue tiles comments, “Yarn dye Short sleeve shrug almost white denim is also do- polo trend is still red hot for Banana Republic ing well. Indigo is out.”

64 ahore – Pakistan knitwear in- and financial donor agencies. Muham- instead, business has been reduced dras- dustry is only 1.5 billion of its mad Nasir, concurs with this opinion. tically from last year. Shaharyar Hus- L total exports. “According to experts, Pakistan, India sain (Director, Angora Textiles) feels Knitwear industry has been struggling and China will be the big- that “buyers have a wait and for the past couple of years. Customers gest gainers for WTO in see attitude. Contrary to popu- have been demanding lower prices, the long run. Countries that lar opinion, the knits business technical and design innovation, quality do not have the raw materi- has not gone to China,” he as- product on-time. Pakistani vendors un- als, especially cotton will serts. “It has moved to India, fortunately, have failed to deliver as an face serious problems go- Bangladesh & South Africa. industry. Instead they have been more ing forward. In the short Tommy Hilfiger and Gap are focused on expansion, increasing ca- term, Bangladesh, Nepal, two such buyers who have pacities instead of improving their man- Sri Lanka, Gulf including moved to India. Chaps is sourc- agement skills, timely execution of their Jordan, Africa will have ing out of South Africa. The commitments, quality, merchandising business going to them. reason is quite simple, better and sales areas. These are all assumptions Azfar Hassan prices, less production hassles “Pakistan is ten years behind everyone at this point, only time will and no security issues.” else in the global marketplace. Even tell. Price structures may “Pakistan is an inefficient indus- Bangladesh is more efficient and effec- change for Fall 06 as buy- try,” he continues. “Prices were tive than us,” declares one buyer who ers will have to place their good in the past so inefficiencies wishes to keep his name out of the dis- programs other than in got covered. Cash flows were no cussion. “The signs were always there. China. Garment prices problem. However, with the new We could see it coming years ago. If we should go up (even though trading scenario, duty & rebate had based our operations on knitwear prices are being determined advantages are available to cer- alone, we would have been out of our by China right now, I met tain countries. Take Bangladesh jobs pretty quickly. Instead, we started one customer yesterday – it’s virtually impossible to working in a new direction – and have who informed me the prices Mr. Azhar Iqbal compete with 15% cost advan- managed to open up new avenues in the out of India are $1.50/piece tage already built into their apparel sourcing of Pakistan. However, more than China), and big price. India is also offering bet- Pakistan again is nowhere on the global quantity orders will be split ter prices. Sri Lanka is duty free map in the woven business. Our fabric between China and a few for Europe. There are two types may be good according to most industry other countries, even com- of firms in Pakistan right now, insiders, however, our poplins, and petition – probably the the first category is made up of twills for woven shirts leave much to be Middle East and Latin inefficient firms but they have desired. Taiwan, India and Bangladesh America, India and Paki- orders, the second category of are leading the market again. Our woven stan. Turkey is providing firms are inefficient and no bottom business has been a little better. cotton goods, and then they longer have orders – they have a However, again, we don’t have a lot of have a lot of stuff made in Adil Sher greater challenge ahead. We efficient and effective vendor resources. the Marianna Islands, the need to work on marketing, CBL has proved to be the only efficient Philippines and Mexico. product innovation, and produc- resource for us from Pakistan,” he de- With the Middle East, it’s tion efficiencies, HR training, clares. mostly the UAE where the and technical know how to Muhammad Nasir, (merchandiser, fabric is brought in from bring back the business and Enrich Group Inc., based in the USA) other countries like India, retaining it.” declares Sha- doesn’t agree; “on the contrary, Pakistan Taiwan, and China and haryar. right now is one of the leading suppliers then only CMT is done in Mr. Azhar Iqbal (CEO, Leisure of poplins & twill in the world market. UAE. I agree the prices Textiles) also thinks the situa- We dominate yarn counts from 5/s to went down earlier this year tion is unpredictable at this 40/s. Most of our competitors are using because of China, now point. “Everybody misread the our piece goods!” most of the hot categories signals. Prices came down as Shahrukh Chaudhry In the post quota scenario, experts are under quota, the prices well as the business quantum – were predicting that Pakistan will get are starting to rise again as China under safe guard quota the major chunk of business since it’s a I just explained.” may be positive for us, but it’s hard to cotton rich country – these reports were This unfortunately has proved to be a say at this point. We are competing obviously based on the expert opinion of fallacy so far. Vendors are still waiting with India and Bangladesh too.” World Bank, IMF and other government for the business that was sure to come; (Continued on page 67)

65 66 (Continued from page 65) had to do was change the buttons! Why tomer-driven focus have succeeded. If can’t Pakistan do that?” we look at India – they have their own Checking with a few buyers infor- Azfar Hassan, (CEO at Matrix Sourc- labels. They project their industry mally on this trend, one gets the impres- ing) is also one other buyer who is look- abroad. They project their culture sion that buyers are not very happy with ing for product innovation from his ven- abroad. Our focus has been on indirect the Lahore apparel vendors. One buyer, dors, he thinks the “vendors compro- marketing only, which in practical terms who represents the European market in mised their margins instead of improv- means having limited exposure to the Lahore, is deeply frustrated with the ing efficiencies. The defect rate is high. buyer’s liaison offices and agents. Now, ignorance displayed, he comments,” Garments are practically made twice as direct marketing is required. We have Pakistani vendors are not very commer- they require a lot of re-work. Fabric learnt. We are competent. We can do cial or business oriented. They do not yields have not improved. Vendors have fashion garments very easily. We have seem to understand the European market not done what they should have to meet skilled labor. There is only lack of busi- at all. The buyers have hundreds of sup- these challenges. There is virtually no ness orientation. India, China, Bangla- pliers. They do not need a supplier who emphasis on product innovation we desh and Sri Lanka are basically the doesn’t understand their business or can need to concentrate on innovating crea- same geographical region – the only not deliver what they are looking for tive fabrics and finishes. Vendors have basic difference between them and Paki- when they are looking for it! They built the infra-structure but they are not stan is that Pakistani vendors have been would rather go somewhere else. The using it – the processes don’t mesh, working on short term goals – we have Europeans will give you a garment and overall there is no improvement in the been trying to make easy money instead just ask if you can make that at the price quality area – we still have not im- of building an industry.” they want? If you can, the business is proved garment presentation for exam- Unfortunately, due to various political yours. You have to take care of the finer ple, in all these years – garments are still reasons, customers have decreased or details yourself. They do not want to be hard pressed. Nothing is changed. A lot stopped coming to Pakistan for security bothered with the hassles of producing of the vendors spent a lot of money on reasons. The vendors have made no ef- the garment. They have you for that. expansion, thinking in terms of econo- fort to build strong relationships with The runs may be shorter but they pay mies of scale, but unfortunately, the their customers over the years since top dollar which actually translates into basic business model was incorrect, the quota used to give them an edge in the nine to fifteen dollars per unit and you paradigm never shifted. The vendors global market place. Shahrukh end up making more money than you were just wasting money. There is an Chaudhry (Manager Knitwear Division expect from a 1000 piece order. I do not absence of policy on training & budget. at JC Penney Purchasing Corporation) understand why the factories in this part To run a good company, you need to confirms the above argument, he says, of the world are so unexposed, ignorant have training programs in place. Even if “Lahore vendors were inefficient to be- and unwilling to learn? With their atti- there is a huge personnel turnover, that’s gin with. On top of it, they didn’t try to tude, business is sure to run away!” no reason to slash these programs. The improve. Darwin’s law “survival of the Another buyer who is new to Pakistan vendors blew their money on machines fittest” seems to be playing out. Expan- also expressed his frustration, “All they instead of people. They spend more time sion in this climate seems impractical. seem to want is long runs! Why should I fire fighting than doing basic manage- All it has done is accelerate the rate of give them that business? They have not ment. What about your initiative? No bankruptcy for the inefficient vendors. earned it. My Bangladesh suppliers are effort is made to please the customer.” They could have survived for another giving me hassle free production with Azhar Iqbal, (CEO at Leisure Textiles) six months if they had not gone into pre- low price and no attitude. They deserve also confirms vendors need to improve mature expansion. Vendors should have to get this business more than the La- their management skills. “Our edge was been working towards improving effi- hore vendors,” he concludes. always the production capacity. We ciencies and relationships with their That’s not all. The local buyers seem never based it on innovative product current customers. Direct marketing and to be equally frustrated with the vendor line. Strategically we need to bridge the relationship building is the only way in attitude, “Most of the Lahore apparel gap- improving productivity & efficien- the post quota scenario - vendors who vendors are first generation business- cies, bringing the prices down, and pro- focused on both areas have managed to men. Karachi is a little better since they ducing a quality product on-time consis- sustain themselves even in this competi- are third generation. Why should I give tently. Basics of production are missing tive environment. The strange thing is them my business if they are not going in all three industrial cities of Pakistan. instead of concentrating on improving to do any improvements in the manage- Karachi has managed to do better than efficiencies, vendors thought in the post ment of their people and machines? If Lahore because they operate on lower quota scenario business will grow and they are not going to concentrate on overheads. Our production tracking is started building their capacities, the innovation, I do not have a lock on fresh weak.” business in the meantime, quietly moved ideas, I am looking for resources that One problem is that vendors have lit- to India. I do not think China is a threat can help me improve my product, make erally no exposure to the market they to Pakistan, India is. Buyers feel more it efficiently at a lower price, adding are selling in. “There is lack of market comfortable with India, English is their differentiation to my product without focus,” declares Tariq Shabbir, second language. They also enjoy going transferring those costs to me and de- (Marketing Manager at Combined Fab- to India from the tourist point of view, liver it on-time. I have one Bangladesh rics). “Marketing people don’t travel – besides, in the business terms, they are vendor that has in-house designers – we there is literally no or limited exposure offering better price points, better ser- picked a whole line from them! All we to the global market. Vendors with cus- (Continued on page 68)

67 (Continued from page 67) vice and more variety in the product line. Why Cover: Make up by Shahzad Raza. Photograph by: Ather Shahzad. should not the buyers like India? The reason for Pakistani exports decline is very simple, Page 34 —Style on a budget: Cheap chic, high style/low budget lack of market intelligence with virtually no Top Fashion wave, shop 20, 3rd Floor, Pace. Jean: 3rd floor. emphasis on marketing or trend forecasting,” affirms Shahrukh. Page 36– Couture: Featuring a traditional bride. Adil Sher (brand manager, cK division at Bridal dress by Barkat Ali Saree Walay. Make-up and hair by Ather Shahzad. Pho- tograph: Rollo Studios. Linmark International), concurs with this opinion. “Pakistan is losing the race. Knit- Page 38—Couture: Featuring a traditional bride: wear is down. Customers are clamoring for Bridal dress by Satrangi. Hair and Make up by Anny at Allenora. Photograph lower prices. We were not ready for this trend. credit: Not Known. Page 57: Bridal dress by Lajwanti. Hair and Makeup by Ather Yarn dye is really hot. India unfortunately is Shahzad. Photograph credit: Not known. better at yarn dye products. Things may start improving end of this year but at this point, its Page 41: Made in Pakistan: exports pure speculation, even the buyers are not sure All Ck tee’s by Leisure Textiles except for the turquoise tee by Combined Fabrics. Diesel Jeans—by Diesel. Imported. Denim & Co. Jeans by US Apparel. 20x Jeans about the post quota scenario. Woven apparel, by Angora Textiles. Women’s tees by Masood Textiles for Europe. Include Levi’s on the other hand, is doing very well. Quota signature, Tommy Jeans and Hilfiger, and 20X brands. Photographs: Fareeha alone in category 347 used to cost us one dol- Qayoom & Farrah Salahuddin. For make up details, see below. lar. That’s been slashed totally from the price. Our woven fabric has always been good. We Page 46: The secret to a bottomless closet? Clothing Capsules. have been exporting it to various parts of the Boot cut twill stretch pants in white & Khaki— Wrangler, made by Angora Textiles. globe. Now, we can make garments ourselves Red shirt by Zara. Imported. Solid black shirt by Gap. White shirt by Esprit. Im- at a competitive price,” concludes Adil. ported. Green & black plaid check shirt inspired by Gap, custom made. Shoes by Esprit. Imported. Shaharyar Hussain, (Director Angora Tex- tiles) also feels woven apparel is the next new Make up on page 35 & 41-47: inspired by Summer 2005-06 runway “au natural” wave for Pakistani vendors. “Woven industry looks, ideal for work and casual summer days. Products used to achieve this look looks more promising. We can develop this on Saima—Clinque—almost makeup SPF 15. Rimmel Stay matt pressed powder— area and compete globally. Our wash tech- color sandstorm. Rimmel Exaggerate full volume and curl mascara, Colorings, eye niques need work though.” definer crayon kohl pencil soft brown. Dark Brown eye shadow on the eyelids, Our leading woven apparel buyer doesn’t bronze blusher on the cheeks, soft orange and pink matt lipstick with transparent lip gloss on top. Make up by Fareeha Qayoom. agree with this opinion, “Vendors who could- n’t deal with knitwear buyers effectively Page 49—Yahsir Waheed—Designer print collection. shouldn’t try their hand at making woven ap- parel. They are sure to lose money. You need Page 58: summer heat a sales killer for most retailers to have a certain attitude to succeed in this Collections boutique in Fortress. Generation boutique in Gulberg. Nee Punhal business. You need to keep up with the trends boutique in Fortress. Chen One apparel sections in Gulberg. Jewelry—the Gift shop and you need to initiate new trends. Some- on MM Alam Road. Al-Hafeez Towers. Shoes by Bata, Gulberg. Shoes by Urban times, the only difference between a fifteen Sole, The Mall. Cane blinds—a road side shop in Defence, main boulevard. Interiors and fabric boutiques, Fortress Stadium. dollar jean and hundred and fifteen dollar jean is the finishing process.” Interiors: Page 60– Storage ideas that work by JC Penney Stores, Macy’s & Wal- mart Stores in USA. Local translation: any cane, wood and wrought iron metal furniture maker can make these designs based on your own specifications.

Page 62-63—Elements of Style, little touches, big difference— Metal works, Blue Pottery, carved wood furniture from Pakistan handicraft shop SAVE 10% on normal on Davis Road and Apwa craft shop on Jail Road. The embroidered screen and Stool from Farrah’s private embellishment collection. Page 63: Farrah Naz Embel- price! lishment collection—featuring cushions covers. Her specialty: intricate embroi- SUBSCRIBE FASHION REVIEW dery /embellishment that can be translated to any work surface— interior and Name: apparel. for exports & local needs—bridal, sofa upholstery, throws, bed covers, Company Name: pelmets, lamp shades, screens, blinds and cushion/pillow covers. For information Address: - email: [email protected] Country: Contacts: Telephone, email, fax: Page 78-79—Haute & Sizzling Vaneeza Ahmad. Subscription: □ 4 issues □ 2 issues Color photo: Make up by Shahzad Raza. Photograph: Athar Shahzad studios. Black and white photograph: Adnan Q. Qayyum. Actual photographer: Didn’t want Terms of payment: Check payable to: credit. THE KNIT-XTYLE FASHION REVIEW c/o SETHI BOOKS Post photography editing and corrections for the cover, cover story photo’s page 14B TEMPLE ROAD, LAHORE, PAKISTAN 78-79 page, couture: page36 & 38, Yahsir Waheed photos’ pages 49-56: Adnan Q. Qayyum

68 s it going to be the comfy. Probably the late, unla- divorce of the dec- mented ''casual Friday'' look I ade, the split be- was the apogee of the mar- tween sportswear and riage between athletic and suits? formal wear. By then, casual On one side of the and formal had melded to such closet we have the ex- an extent that one could buy a treme suit, the new mode suit as soft as a sweatshirt, of expression for the while Reebok Pumps (which peacock male. For supposedly made running a spring, Ralph Lauren, marathon a cakewalk) hit the Alexander McQueen and office more than the running Andrew Harmon are track. among the designers to So, what's changed? Well, the offer the full-chested, new suits have swagger. Not small-waisted equivalent in the 1980's square- of the female hourglass shouldered way that was the silhouette. Even Giorgio Prada quintessentially Italian silhou- Armani, the patron saint Ralph Lauren in his own creation ette from Gianni Versace. of fashion's big ease, has Instead, these defined, cut a new jacket that no ultra-masculine suits out- longer slides over a mid- line with pride what those dle-aged spread. hours at the gym have cre- On the other side of the ated: the male body beauti- armoire is extreme sports- ful. There is an elegance to wear: puffer jackets with this new-generation tailor- so much technology and ing that hints at Holly- hardware built in that they wood-style glamour from could climb Everest alone, the silver-screen years. But and high-tech sneakers, the modern lines are like those designed by harder, the waist clearly Marc Newson for Nike -- defined and the pants ca- a molded suede sock in- ressing the thigh muscles. side a modular mesh shell Now the power suit, as -- inspired by the Russian worn by P. Diddy, focuses cosmonauts. on the curvy torso. Of course, stretch fab- ''Double-breasted'' is no rics have already revolu- longer a dirty word. tionized the suit, as tech- Vivien Westwood Even now that mainstream nological input has given fashion is taking a more texture and strength -- as well as womanly position with a contemporary resonance -- to Jasper Conran Grecian folds, the male bantamweight fabrics. But in counterpoint seems likely recent years, tailoring has had to to be in the ancient Greek tradition of play catch-up with sportswear athleticism. Read: his hard sports and the changing male lifestyle. clothes to her soft wear. When Prada gave us the nerd And women in suits? Don't believe in look in the 1990's, the slim-line the revival of the pantsuit, except as suit defined an entire generation universally acceptable and inoffensive of ''new men'' who thought mac- clothing for presidents' wives and robiotic rather than macho. businesswomen of a certain age. The This re-emergence of the suit extreme suit, like extreme sportswear, reverses the last century's long, is once again the prerogative of the lingering love affair with getting peacock male.

Emporio Armani Emporio Armani 69 pril 26th New Delhi- The 6th India Fashion Week was held at the Grand Hyatt hotel in Delhi from April A 20-26. Last year, over 400 domestic and foreign buy- ers registered at the Fashion Week. But how much business they generated remains a matter of speculation. "There are no statistics to give because we have no proper documentation. The designers too don't reveal commercial intelligence," said Rathi Vinay Jha, Director General, FDCI. "Designers are not able to give figures because they don't have them. We get ini- tial inquiries but not all translates to sales," said fashion de- signer Rohit Gandhi. The sixth annual India Fashion Week was an event that would have been hard to imagine taking place just 10 years ago, prêt-à-porter fashion barely existed here in any Western Suneet Varma sense. Yes, there were serious designers - Tarun Tahiliani, Rohit Bal and Ritu Kumar, among others - and runway shows, but these were pitched to a local market for the custom-made clothing grandiosely termed couture. Then in the late 1990's a weeklong presentation of catwalk shows for international press and buyers was first organized here and, seemingly in an instant, an entire fashion circus was born, replete with side- shows, paparazzi, blanket front-page coverage and daily seat- ing wars. Despite claims at putting Indian fashion on the world map and providing a platform for designers, 61 designers showed their work this year, part of the problem is the disproportionate hype. The fashion business has been trivialized as ongoing entertainment and spectator sport. "A lot of people don't un- derstand the purpose of the fashion week. They think it's en- tertainment. When they ask me for passes I tell them they have no business being here," said Jha. "Our concern is that many of the buyers are not genuine and they copy styles, selling them cheap," said fashion designer Rahul Khanna. However, despite the nagging issues, a lack of consensus, and a concrete plan for future growth, the seven-day long India Fashion Week was full of glitz, glamour, media hype, and of-course, parties galore. India Fashion Week has become an institution, one whose increased presence on the global style stage could not be better timed. American and European collections for spring and summer are chockablock with Indian inspirations; Roberto Cavalli, Gucci, Oscar de la Renta, Kean Etro, Monique Lhuillier and Tracy Reese are just a smattering of those who helped themselves to the sub-continental legacy of handicraft, ornament, strong color and durable motif. Indian design has even filtered through to the mass market in the Rocky S. (Continued on page 71)

70 (Continued from page 70) form of kurti, modified versions of the humble kurta, daily wear for many Indian men and the shirt of choice this summer for hot evenings in the Hamptons or days at the beach. "The West has borrowed a lot from us over the years," said Cory Walia, a Bollywood stylist renowned for having discov- ered the model Ujjwala Raut, a darling on Western runways. "But realistically we also get most of our information and just about every inspiration from the West," Mr. Walia added. "Fashion shows are not part of the culture of India. Even fash- ion isn't, in a way." The distinction between fashion and apparel is probably worth noting. Most of the $16 billion worth of clothing that the Fashion Design Council of India projects the country will export this year hardly merits being called fashion, in the con- ventional sense of high-end label goods; the bulk of it consti- tutes generic goods manufactured by cheap Indian labor and destined for the shelves of department and discount stores. Yet India "has traditionally had a very strong design hand- writing," according to Rajeev Sethi, a designer and local cul- tural impresario who heads the preservationist Asian Heritage Foundation. "And we had better start marketing ourselves quickly before we lose our identity to all the multinationals coming along." India Fashion Week, which ran through April 26, a diverse showcase of contemporary Indian design aesthetics, yoked to a frenzy of corporate image building, all of it underwritten by an array of unlikely sponsors that included makers of discount shoes, mobile telephones, cosmetics and beer. It was also a Sabyasachi goofy social free-for-all that drew its audience partly from the large pool of New Delhi's nouveau riche, and also from a ripe mented by 70 trade booths showcasing what could be called assortment of sponsors' clients, buyers, flunkies, models of the poles of current fashion design. both sexes and of course their ever present groupies. "It was in On one hand there are the neo-minimalists, deploying tradi- the exact same condition last year," said Fern Mallis, a vice tional handicrafts with restraint and confidence. On the other president of IMG, the global sports marketing company that are designers whose response, when presented with a blank owns Fashion Week in New York and that produced its off- slate and access to those same crafts traditions, takes the form shoot here. "If this were China, they would have had a parking of horror. More is more, in other words, with a dollop of too lot full of cars by now," Ms. Mallis said. much. Suneet Varma, a local fashion celebrity whose clothes are For every even marginally subtle designer like Mr. Varma, distributed in Europe, Asia and the United States, opened the there are five others whose week one blazing April noontime with his Le Spice collection. work looks as if it is destined His was the first of 39 runway presentations at the hotel, aug- for a camel fair in Rajasthan. Kurtas, shalwar kameez, churridar trousers, saris, caf- tans, and formal sherwani coats came paved with se- quins, barnacled with cowrie shells, encrusted with zardozi embroidery, ornamented with ghungroo/bells and univer- sally accessorized with sad clunky shoes. Models' hair- styles were trained to resem- ble cotton candy or else the conehead coiffures of ancient Chola deities. Their faces, too, were treated to some odd effects: zippered or bisected or randomly splashed with Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla the pastel powders of Holi, Ritu Kumar Manish Arora (Continued on page 72)

71 ing the week, Ms. Jain seemed stalled in aesthetic limbo, caught between cultures, a con- dition that seems to afflict much current Indian fashion design. What renders this real- ity particularly odd is that the fine arts branch of India Inc. has had anything but trouble establishing itself globally, as witness the current abundance of Indian stars in art, film, lit- erature and music. Yet Indian fashion inexplicably continues to drift along lazily, as if the vital subcontinent that made a gift to the world of calico, ma- dras, chintz, tie-dye, crewel- work and virtually the entire technique of hand block print- ing was somehow not moti- vated to propel itself out of the backwaters of design. "There is Models wait backstage at a fashion show by design duo Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla. no such thing as 'fashion' in India, beyond weddings," said Mahendra Singh, a prominent jeweler in New Delhi who fre- (Continued from page 71) quently lends wares to designers for Fashion Week. "Designers don't feel they need to go beyond that, because the the Hindu festival of spring. At any fashion week one can market here is so large," he said. count on an abundance of weird themes. But at India Fashion Mr. Singh's observations are valid, or might logically have Week the narratives seemed likelier to borrow from the Ma- been during the long years when India's economic isolation habharata. Ms. Kumar, the grande dame of Indian fashion, kept it out of reach of multinational suitors hawking their lux- claimed as her inspiration the "Threads of the Indus," a refer- ury wares. But those days are now past. The challenge from ence to the cradle of civilization. Why she then showed the West is on, and the business face of India is changing, as flounced Gypsy skirts and T-shirts bearing sequined images of many will tell you, faster than at any time since independence. the Nizam of Hyderabad - whose family was legendary for its In particular the fever to Westernize has become a contagion gems and staggering wealth - is anyone's guess. Wendell in the consumer marketplace, with goods and fads being Rodricks, a designer from the former Portuguese enclave of shipped in by the planeload. Among the most blatant current Goa, organized his collection around "the wandering tribes on manias in the capital city are those for Gucci mini clutches and Oceania," an allusion, he explained, to an unproved theory that Vuitton sandals, for ageless bodies - spinning and Pilates Pacific islands were colonized by prehistoric sailors who had classes are packed at Delhi gyms - Botox and even tanning set out from southern India. The models seemed enchanted creams. with Mr. Rodricks's loose shirts in light linens and drawstring There were those whose collections handily resolved the trousers with flukes at the side seams. Buyers, alas, were less East-West dilemma by improvising an aesthetic that was sub- enthusiastic. "I'm here to see clothes that speak to a larger, tly hybridized. Paras Bairoliya and Shalini Jaikaria of Geisha more global vision," said Michael Fink, a buyer for Saks Fifth Designs, for instance, offset their delicate floaty skirts with Avenue. "I keep saying to people: 'Designers come from mannish tunics. The darlings of Bollywood, Sandeep Khosla abroad, take your fabrics and crafts and present extraordinary and Abu Jani of Abu Sandeep, presented a subdued mono- clothes. What's wrong? Why aren't you doing that here?' "Mr. chrome collection embroidered in the elaborate chikankari Fink was not alone among those hopefuls who made the trek style. And Sabyasachi Mukherjee, a Calcutta-based designer from the United States or Europe only to find disappointment with a growing international following paid frank homage to in collections not yet likely to translate for foreign markets. Prada with a clothes that employed an array of Indian handi- "I've been coming for three years, and I definitely buy, but I'm crafts, although skewed, worked over and conspicuously cautious and only use two or three designers," said Nadine dulled down. There were even slouchy, tailored men's coats Allen of Okra, a Palm Beach store that specializes in Indian worn atop saris by models whose "librarian" eyeglasses lent labels. Chances are slim, after all, that Ms. Allen's Worth them the look of impoverished art students from mid-20th- Avenue clientele would be drawn to the patchwork, beaded, century West Bengal. embroidered, hand-blocked and vegetable-dyed clothes Payal "To appear poor is to appear chic," Mr. Mukherjee explained Jain imagined for a show she called "The Wandering Mendi- of the collection. Given the larger setting, his may have been cant." That is not to suggest that Ms. Jain, who was trained in the most radical design statement one heard all week. the United States, is not deserving of a wider audience. But, one wonders, where? As with many of those who showed dur- Original source : Designer News India & The New York Times

72 NO LAY-OFFS IN FEDERATED- that the Jil Sander name has come to repre- MAY MERGER UNTIL MARCH 2006 sent. There is a strong affinity between In a letter filed to the SEC on May 26, how I perceive my own design and the Federated Department Stores Inc., Cincin- core values that the Jil Sander brand em- nati, committed there will be no layoffs or braces." reductions before March 2006 as a result of the pending merger with the May Depart- CHANEL EXHIBITION IN NEW ment Stores Co., St. Louis. The letter was YORK signed by May chairman, president and The House of Chanel is the subject of a CEO Terry J. Lundgren and Federated new exhibition at the Metropolitan Mu- chairman, president and CEO John L. seum of Art in New York. The show Dunham. The merger between the two opened on May 5th and will run until Aug companies is currently under going under 7th 2005. Those curious about the Coco review by the Federal Trade Commission Chanel's fascinating personal life will not and is expected to close during the third find explanation in this exhibition. Instead quarter this year. A transition team, which her designs are allowed to speak for them- includes members from both companies, is selves. Creative consultant Olivier Saillard working together to determine the future has created an inspired costume display structure of the new company while both that pays homage to the earliest fashion Federated and May are operating sepa- exhibitions. A true modernist, like her art- rately until the transaction is closed. Feder- ist contemporaries Picasso and Cocteau, ated stores include Macy's and Blooming- Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel broke the mould dales'; May stores include Marshall Field's by freeing women from the confines of and Kaufmann's. 19th century fashion. Her elegant clothes focused on ease and comfort, and ushered RAF SIMONS TO HEAD JIL in a new era of fashion. Her pioneering SANDER CREATIVE TEAM approach as a brilliant symbolist laid the groundwork for prolific designer Karl Prada's loss making Jil Sander has named Lagerfeld, who joined the House of Chanel Raf Simons – Belgian Designer - as its as chief designer in 1983. Since then, new creative director, effective July 1st . Lagerfeld has reworked the house's ico- The move follows the founding designer's nography, ensuring the Chanel legacy lives second exit from the firm last November. on. Simons will be responsible for the Jil

Sander women's and men's collections, starting with the autumn/winter 2006 sea- CHANEL ARMHOLES son to be presented in Milan early next The secret behind the cardigan like ease of year. He faces a major task in reviving the Chanel's famous jacket? The construction! label that was acquired by Prada in 1999 More specifically the placement of the but failed to live up to expectations within rather tight sleeve. Women's Wear Daily the larger group. Jil Sander herself left the founder John Fairchild described it as group early in 2000 after disagreements "nailed high, high under the armhole, and with Prada CEO Patrizio Bertelli. She was shaped and set on to the round shoulder replaced by former design director at bone." Among Chanel's many historic Gucci and art director and buyer of Paris achievements is that she may have been the store Colette, Milan Vukmirovic, but the first designer accused by a rival - Christian new design direction alienated existing Dior - of being a glorified stylist. She revo- Sander customers and failed to win new lutionized fashion, said Dior, "with a black fans. Sander rejoined in 2003 and sales sweater and ten rows of pearls." A pro- began to grow, although losses continued. ducer of both real and costume jewels, Prada and Simons emphasized their desire Chanel declared that the point was to wear to continue the Jil Sander style and not them as if the real were fake and the fake move in new directions. "I couldn't be hap- real. “I love luxury and luxury lies not in pier to work for a brand as pure and clean richness, or ornaments, but in the absence as Jil Sander," Simons said. "I am eager to of vulgarity," Chanel said. "Vulgarity is carry forward the simple, pristine design the ugliest word in our language. I stay in (Continued on page 74) Chanel on the fall runway 2005-06

73 (Continued from page 73) jeans and skin. The effect lasts 30 washes, as the micro-capsules are cov- the fashion game to fight it." George ered with Chitosan, protecting them Bernard Shaw referred to Chanel as "the from heat, cold, water and drying. The fashion wonder of the world." Her suc- two models, called Blast and Star, will cess was due, in part, to her legendary be available exclusively in Salsa stores. perfectionism. She could not sew, but she was excellent at subtracting, reduc- STELLA MCCARTNEY SIGNS THE ing an outfit to its most perfect form. H&M HOLIDAY 2005 DESIGNER "My art," she said, "has consisted in COLLECTION cutting off what others added." Swedish fashion retailer Hennes &

Mauritz has confirmed its commitment EVISU PIONEERS TAILORING to the designer capsule collection con- WITH SAVILE ROW STORE IN cept with the announcement that Stella LONDON McCartney will create its next mini-line Hong Kong-based premium denim in time for Holiday 2005. The concept, brand Evisu has opened its first London launched last year with Karl Lagerfeld store on Savile Row - the home of Brit- and continuing this summer with Elio ish high-end bespoke (couture) tailoring Fiorucci, has been a major boost to - to reflect its new tailoring direction. A H&M sales. McCartney is to create premium bespoke service and new prod- around 40 womens’ wear pieces to be work of artist Tadanori Yokoo. Mean- uct offer will be available in-store sold under the Stella McCartney for while the efficacy of the product – con- alongside the men's and women's collec- H&M label in selected stores in Europe sidered close to a drug - remains a big tions. The tailor who previously occu- and North America this November. "It's question. pied the premises, Anthony J Hewitt, going to be exciting to create a one-time has been retained to cater for Evisu's collection for H&M that means a new LIMITED BRANDS AXES AUSTRA- new tailoring-led business. "We really way of presenting my clothes to a larger wanted to have our London flagship on LIAN WOOL female audience," McCartney said. Savile Row. It was just a matter of time US fashion giant Limited Brands H&M described McCartney's design before a space came up but we've been (Victoria's Secret, Express and Henri style as "modern and cool" as well as waiting for a long time for the right lo- Bendel) has become the latest retailer to "classic and practical" and said con- cation to fit with our new focus on pre- stop using Australian wool, saying it sumer surveys showed a strong interest mium denim tailoring product,” says will no longer knowingly use the prod- in her clothes. Samantha Rosich, European marketing uct until the practices of mule sing and manager. "Since the beginning we have live exports are ended, reported AAP. TIFFANY TO OPEN GALERIES a rich history in tailoring, with Ya- However the company, said its decision was not an endorsement of the ongoing LAFAYETTE BOUTIQUE mane's design directions right from the Upscale jeweler Tiffany & Co is to open launch of the label in Japan. And now campaign by animal rights group PETA. "For our own business reasons, we have a boutique at the Galeries Lafayette de- we want to focus the label's future pre- partment store in Paris on May 16. The mium lines around our heritage of tailor- no plans to knowingly use this kind of wool in the near future," Limited Brands boutique will occupy around 46 sq m on ing. Both bespoke and semi-bespoke the ground floor. will be on offer in the London store." spokesman Anthony Hebron told AAP. "That said, we do not endorse any ac- The store will be completed in two GIANFRANCO FERRÉ phases. Phase one - moving in and tak- tions that threaten the livelihood of ing over the old tailor's premises for hardworking farmers. Instead, we en- LAUNCHES MADE-TO-MEASURE authenticity’s sake. Phase two will start courage leaders from all sides of this SERVICE in the autumn when Evisu has refitted issue to resolve the matter in the best IT Holding's Gianfranco Ferré will the space to become a much larger 2,000 interest of both the farmers and ani- launch a made-to-measure service for its sq ft size incorporating more of the mals." women's eveningwear for autumn/ mainline men's, women's and new kids’ winter 2005/06, debuting in store from wear lines, as well as a dedicated tailor- SALSA RELAUNCHES ANTI- July. Clients will be able to place ing design studio in the basement. CELLULITE JEANS "special orders" on evening dresses and Portuguese jeans specialist Salsa has some bridal wear to request a different SHISEIDO PULLS AD OVER SIMI- launched jeans containing cellulite in- color from the catwalk model, adapt the LARITY TO ARTIST'S WORK hibitor microcapsules for 2005, after an size or chose from various skirt and top combinations. Shiseido Co has suspended the airing of initial test debut in 2004. The jeans in- a TV commercial for a new hair re- corporate microcapsules containing anti- growth tonic after it was claimed to cellulite ingredients retinol, scalene and ANTI-POLLEN FABRIC have close resemblance to the work of a menthol on the inside of the fabric. Japanese textile manufacturer Miyuki famous Japanese artist. The ad for Ade- When worn, these are gradually re- Keori Co has developed a fabric that it leased, activated by friction between nogen hair tonic was said to resemble a (Continued on page 75)

74 (Continued from page 74) eyewear produced by Luxottica. It will forty years it is love and hate, which continue to develop its core European gives a very creative drive and if you claims can prevent pollen sticking to it markets as well as Japan and Russia, he look well and remember your classics in and therefore provide relief for hay fe- added. Versace's autumn/winter 2005 fashion you will see where Levi’s went ver sufferers. The fabric uses nanotech- advertising campaign will debut in Au- for inspiration. Now Pitti Uomo is pay- nology, with particles about 30 nano- gust with previews in specialist publica- ing a well deserved tribute to the french metres wide attached to the surface of tions. It develops the theme of the last fashion ‘couple’ with a grand exhibition the threads in it. The particles block campaign featuring Madonna, who will in the Stazione Leopolda in Firenze. As gaps in the fabric, preventing pollen be replaced by a different model, he the fashion crowd from around the from getting trapped. added. world gathers for the men’s wear the organisers – Pitti Immagine – gave the ADIDAS OPENS BIGGEST SPORT DOLCE & GABBANA CALL FOR designers carte blanche. L’Altro jeans PERFORMANCE STORE IN NEW CATWALK SUPERLEAGUE proposes another version of the history YORK Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana of the jeans, a fabric denim and a gar- ment pants as an attitude, their vision German athletic footwear and apparel have called for a “the jeans must be washed of its ideas”. maker Adidas opened its largest Sport shake-up in the This exhibition is not the history of 150 Performance Store on New York's seasonal catwalk years of jeans instead of trousers, it is Broadway on Saturday (May 7). The calendar to create a simply their reinterpretation of this utili- minimalist 2,740 sq m store features virtual super tarian garment as a fashion one. A jeans walls and furniture in black or white league of brands, that works, that needs to be worked on making the merchandise the focal point. showing at a sepa- and gives work. Materials, shapes and fixtures through- rate time from After modifying existing materials, they out the store are inspired by components smaller names. At concentrated their efforts on designing found in sport and include hangers re- a fashion industry new materials and treatments. They in- sembling weightlifting bars and shoes conference in Mi- vented the stone washed in 1976 and displayed on running starter blocks. lan, the two said it thirty years later they bring the Eternal "Adidas makes products for more sports is time to "set Blue or BE the indigo denim which does than any other brand and this is our op- things straight," ANSA reported. They not fade. portunity to demonstrate that. We want added that international journalists are Then they redefined the trousers struc- people to think of the Adidas Sport Per- only in Milan during fashion week to ture and construction. Everything goes formance Store as more than just a store, see a few key names - the crowding of into attitude. Obsession with the crotch, but a destination for athletes," said Erich the schedule concern for functional details, sensitive Stamminger, president of Adidas Amer- means that cut-out, ergonomics, … a real transfor- ica. Adidas currently has more than 15 current fash- mation or metamorphosis. such stores with future openings sched- ion weeks Their work in fashion is unique and they uled to include Berlin, Rome, Tokyo are too long. show it. The collaboration with some and Hong Kong. "These days photographers such as Oliveiro Toscani, anyone can afford to put Michel Nafziger, gave advertising cam- ITALY'S EYEWEAR FACES CHAL- paigns we will never forget. The most LENGES on a fashion show," said recent one is the interpretation of L’Ul- An enlarged Italian eyewear show Mido Gabbana. tima Cena, photographed by Brigitte opened Friday (May 6) with the new Data sup- Dolce & Gabbana Niedermair and directed by the Air Mido Kids section highlighting what is a plied by Agency. growing segment of the market. Trends Milan's Bocconi university said Milan The 2000 m² of the Stazione Leopolda seen at the show included a continuation fashion week lasts 8.5 days on average, was transformed in a colourful and of the oversized sunglasses direction for with Paris lasting 8.7 days, New York monumental scenography. The indus- both men and women; snakeskin and 7.8 days and London 4.9 days. Dolce trial complex fits the subject, the im- rhinestone features; and bold, colorful and Gabbana both believe the smaller pressive Lazer Syndone – a denim frieze looks rather than subtle frames. Co-CEO names should show at another time. in which the trousers image, printed by Santo Versace said Versace is now fo- While Vogue Italy editor Franca Soz- laser – emphasises the wear and seams cusing a more pared-down, less brash zani partially agreed, she said the elite of the original creations. and more chic product, explaining that schedule should comprise around 20-25 Remarkable models, rare and exclusive the house wanted to return to its former names - not the five or six the two de- prototypes, early technical drawings and image as rock and royalty rather rock signers had suggested. audiovisuals, graphic and photographic and roll. Launching a new model of documents, have been taken from the large, oval sunglasses encrusted with Marithé and François Girbaud archives. L’ALTRO JEANS IN FIRENZE Swarovski crystals at the show, to be It is the first time a tribute of this scale The relationship between denim and worn in the autumn/winter 2005 adver- is paid to these exceptional, but ever Marithé and François Girbaud has al- tising campaign, Versace is increasingly creative soul mates in industrial design. ways been a very peculiar one. Since looking to the US as a key market for its

75 Excerpted from the book “ Law of suc- they could possibly earn by their own in it. cess.” Napoleon Hill (1883-1970) is the efforts. An efficient leader may, through founder of the science of success. his knowledge of his job and the mag- DISLOYALTY

netism of his personality, greatly in- INABILITY TO ORGANIZE DETAILS Perhaps this should have come at the crease the efficiency of others, and in- Efficient leadership calls for an ability head of the list. The leader who is not duce them to render more service and to organize and to master details. No loyal to his trust, and to his associates, better service than they could render genuine leader is ever “too busy” to do those above him, and those below him, without his aid. anything which may be required of him cannot long maintain his leadership. in his capacity as leader. When a man, Disloyalty marks one as being less than whether he is a leader or follower, ad- the dust of the earth, and brings down mits that he is “too busy” to change his on one’s head the contempt he deserves. plans, or to give attention to any emer- Lack of loyalty is one of the major gency, he admits his inefficiency. The causes of failure in every walk of life. successful leader must be the master of all details connected with his position. EMPHASIS OF THE “AUTHORITY” OF That means, of course, that he must ac- LEADERSHIP quire the habit of relegating details to The efficient leader leads by encourag- capable lieutenants. ing, and not by trying to instill fear in the hearts of his followers. The leader UNWILLINGNESS TO RENDER HUM- who tries to impress his followers with BLE SERVICE his “authority” comes within the cate- Truly great leaders are willing, when gory of leadership through FORCE. If a occasion demands, to perform any sort leader is a REAL LEADER, he will of labor which they would ask another have no need to advertise that fact ex- to perform. “The greatest among ye cept by his conduct—his sympathy, shall be the servant of all” is a truth understanding, fairness, and a demon- which all able leaders observe and re- stration that he knows his job. spect. EMPHASIS OF TITLE EXPECTATION OF PAY FOR WHAT LACK OF IMAGINATION The competent leader requires no “title” to give him the respect of his followers. THEY “KNOW” INSTEAD OF WHAT Without imagination, the leader is inca- The man who makes too much over his THEY DO WITH THAT WHICH THEY pable of meeting emergencies, and of title generally has little else to empha- KNOW creating plans by which to guide his followers efficiently. size. The doors to the office of the real The world does not pay men for that leader are open to all who wish to enter, which they “know.” It pays them for SELFISHNESS and his working quarters are free from what they DO, or induce others to do. formality or ostentation. The leader who claims all the honor for the work of his followers, is sure to be These are among the more common of FEAR OF COMPETITION FROM FOL- the causes of failure in leadership. Any LOWERS met by resentment. The really great leader CLAIMS NONE OF THE HON- one of these faults is sufficient to induce The leader who fears that one of his failure. followers may take his position is practi- ORS. He is contented to see the honors, when there are any, go to his followers, cally sure to realize that fear sooner or About the author—American born Na- later. The able leader trains understudies because he knows that most men will work harder for commendation and rec- poleon Hill is considered to have influ- to whom he may delegate, at will, any of enced more people into success than any the details of his position. Only in this ognition than they will for money alone. other person in history. He has been way may a leader multiply himself and perhaps the most influential man in the prepare himself to be at many places, INTEMPERANCE Followers do not respect an intemperate area of personal success technique de- and give attention to many things at one velopment, primarily through his classic time. It is an eternal truth that men re- leader. Moreover, intemperance in any of its various forms, destroys the endur- book Think and Grow Rich which has ceive more pay for their ABILITY TO helped millions of people. GET OTHERS TO PERFORM, than ance and the vitality of all who indulge

76 By William S. Frank • Take leadership roles both internally and externally eople who dislike company • Be assertive without being abrasive politics usually don't like • Build networks P back-stabbing, taking credit • Make friends, not enemies, and most for others’ work, or getting by on of all, personality rather than performance. I • Put the corporate mission and agenda agree, that’s no way to build a high ahead of your own profile career. In the best sense, playing politics In short, you’ll need to be very “people – means developing good “people smart.” Playing politics isn’t necessarily skills.” It means contributing more bad. In fact, it’s a key survival skill. Many than expected, being diplomatic, col- good corporate politicians are both like- laborating and co-operating, and con- able and effective. That’s why they rise to ducting a low-key public relations the top. Those who refuse to play politics campaign for yourself. may accomplish a lot, but they seldom last Moving from $35,000 to $ 100,000+ long or reach the $ 100,000+ level, be- requires increasingly sophisticated cause they don’t fit in. political (people) skills. To move up the ladder, you’ll need to: About the author: William S. Frank, M.A., is founder and President of CareerLab. Since • Keep your eyes and ears open. 1978, he has devoted more than 20,000 hours • Improve communications with as a career, outplacement, and human re- others at all levels sources consultant to employees, managers, • Listen more senior executives, and boards of directors of more than 200 major U.S. corporations. He • Resolve interpersonal disputes wrote 200 letters for job hunters, published by quickly Gianfranco Ferre—Summer 2006 Ten Speed Press, and he created the RED HOT • Compromise cover letter collection in the career center at • Be willing to admit you’re wrong America Online, which is visited by more than 1,000,000 visitors per • Make others —especially your boss-look good month.

By Robert F. Sarmiento, Ph.D • Don't make others look bad. • Create win/win solutions. • Don't criticize employees or bosses. • Keep employer's perspective in • Keep it professional at all times. • Couch criticism in terms of em- mind. • Play the game being played, not the ployer's interests, not personal. • Cultivate a positive, simple, accu- one you want or think should be • Help others get what they want. rate image. played. • Establish affiliations of mutual ad- • Force yourself to do difficult, un- • Don't make enemies. Don't burn vantage with important people. comfortable or scary things. bridges. • Find common ground with others. • Be pleasant. Laugh and smile. • Don't whine and complain. • Don't discuss personal problems. • Be assertive and tough when re- • Don't intimidate superiors. Try to • Selectively self-disclose. quired, not aggressive. avoid going over your superior's • Don't assume anything will stay • Don't oversell. Be natural. Develop head. secret. your own style.

77 er face has launched hundreds of apparel brands in Pakistan – no, surprisingly she has never been fea- H tured in a Television or print commercial, she is a fashion model specializing in runway shows and still fashion photography, a style icon and now a leading actress in range of roles that continue to show case her acting ability more than her status as a leading model of Pakistan. She is not conventionally beautiful but she has a very strik- ing face and a personality to match – she happens to be ele- gant and graceful off stage & off camera too. Her face is full of character and intelligence. In one word, she is hot. But that’s just her appearance. She is not your typical dizzy blonde nor is she a stereotypical model with an attitude. Living in the fast lane has not warped her personality at all. profession. There is a lot of boring dog-work going on behind She has a bachelor’s degree from Kinnaird College for the scenes but at the end of the day, it’s a good job and it pays Women and a Diploma from Glauca Rossi from London. She the bills. It has allowed me to earn enough money to own my also did a stint of regular work at Ali & Tieseen’s salon as a very own apartment. Being financially independent is a big make-up artist before turning professional (model) back in thing for me.” 1996 and moving to Karachi. Vaneeza was one heck of busy girl this July – she was trav- She is very bright and extremely opinionated in real life too. eling all over the place (USA & Europe) and was extremely She is also very likeable & yes, she is very smart. A gal with hard to pin down. I caught her in one of her flying visits to brains and beauty – a lethal combination that usually intimi- Pakistan before she was off to do an acting job for Faheem dates men in droves - she never lost her cool even once – be- Burney in Dubai – a mixed cast of Indian and Pakistani ac- lieve me, I asked her a bunch of real hard hitting questions that tors. Her work in Ali Azmat’s music video “na ray na” from should have gotten her goat. I was actually trying to make her his solo album social circus is currently playing on all the ma- lose it – but more about that when I get to our debate on Jin- jor music channels of India and Pakistan. The first video she nah, the movie. did for Junoon had the distinct honor of going international Hmmm, what more can I say - meet Vaneeza Ahmad, truly a and was featured on MTV but this actually is not a big deal for super model, a fashion icon of our times and pretty good am- her. Speaking about her contribution to the music scene, she’s bassador for Pakistan anywhere. I say this because I never extremely modest. “What work? I only did three videos and cringe on seeing her on stage. She makes us proud instead of all of them for Junoon. My impact on the music scene is pretty embarrassed when we see her representing Pakistan on stage limited. Yes, I have seen the industry grow – there’s a lot or on print abroad or here in Pakistan. more happening now then when I did “Sayoni” for Junoon. Vaneeza was ‘discovered’ while still studying (Kinnaird) by But videos were being made then too. I remember Aminah the designer of Meeras, Ms. Nilofer Shahid. “I never wanted Haq was featured in quite a number of videos in those days. I to be a model, or an actor. I never even thought about it while don’t see any basic change – same people are doing the same at college. My acting career started when Jamal Shah asked things – its hardly overnight for any of them. It’s just that the me to do this play. What I love about my career is the fact that entertainment industry has grown tremendously. There is a lot it has allowed me to be financially independent at a very early of original work coming out of Pakistan. It also depends on age. How many women in our country are allowed to be inde- who you work with.” pendent or can say that? There’s not a lot you can do as a Not all work seems to be original though, Pakistani profes- woman after your bachelors. I didn’t have a Masters degree sionals seem to be taking their cue from India as far as fashion that would allow me to get into a high profile corporate career. or entertainment industry is concerned instead of blazing their Modeling allowed me to make good money and become suc- own trail. “Yes, we are copying India but I actually don’t think cessful in a very short period of time, the good thing is, I did- copy is an appropriate word to describe this phenomenon. I n’t have to bust my gut from nine to five every day to do it.” would call it inspiration – we are getting inspired by India. We “The work itself is not very glamorous”, concedes Vaneeza. in Pakistan don’t live in a bubble. It’s happening everywhere. “We look glamorous so people think it’s a very glamorous (Continued on page 79)

78 (Continued from page 78) think this movie sucked on several counts, the script and story line at the top of my list; I was extremely vocal about my dis- Hollywood copies from India. India copies from Hollywood. appointment to see such a great character reduced to a mere India has the largest entertainment industry in the world. It’s pantomime of the original – Vaneeza to give her due contin- natural. We copy India because India has a similar culture and ued to defend the movie. “Jinnah was a very understated char- back ground to ours, our weddings are similar – we dress the acter. It was a difficult to create a movie around his character. same way, we even speak the same language, the only major I think it turned out well in spite of all the difficulties.” I went difference between our two countries is religion. I don’t see for the jugular than…I really made her defend her position on any harm in this – it has allowed our industry to grow by this movie. I felt it didn’t do justice to Jinnah’s character at all learning from others. Besides, I think we are doing better work – it also didn’t make any mileage out of all the dramatic possi- in terms of television and music than they are.” bilities and events that happened in our history - he changed Vaneeza thinks Pakistani fashion industry has come of age the course of history for Muslims in India – let’s get real, he too. “There is no had to have a pretty dynamic longer a “Begum” personality to achieve that! design approach to Vinny was quick to retort, fashion for one “You know the trouble with thing. People are Pakistan? People love to tear actually going to down someone else’s effort. No school to learn the one will come forward and ap- basics of design and preciate the fact that such a cut. There are so movie was made but every one many new fashion is quick to criticize!” Diplo- schools that are con- matic and loyal. These qualities tributing to this grow- are endearing but what can I ing trend. Begum say, I still disagreed with designing is history. I Vaneeza. In my opinion, the don’t think its arro- reason why the movie never gance on the part of made the grade internationally new designers when is precisely how Vinny put it— they claim they are Jinnah’s effort & achievement better than our tradi- should have been appreciated in tional designers. They the movie, instead of being torn are. They are trained down & criticized by the writ- for this work. They ers. The problem was never know how to cut a acting but a lack of respect for shirt. In the past, the characters that shaped our dress designing was history. The writers also chose the profession of to emphasize events that actu- bored housewives ally didn’t do anything for the only. I think it’s a story or the characters that it positive change.” portrayed. Its sad that such About the possibil- good acting was wasted on ity of holding a fash- such a badly written screen ion week in Pakistan play. to put our industry on 1994. Vaneeza doesn’t think model- a more professional ing or acting is related to age. and international footing, Vaneeza is excited & positive, “We “I plan to continue doing what I am doing now - modeling and can be ready for anything, they are already talking about it in acting. At my age, it’s difficult to find another career and rein- the fashion circles, but this thing needs to be backed by the vent yourself. No, there is a lot of scope in growing with this government to make it effective and large scale.” job. Take Abid Ali, or Shabana Azmi, or any older Holly Vaneeza has experienced all mediums of acting in her career wood actor like Anthony Hopkins – they continue to find in- so far. She did stage work in college. She has done television teresting roles. If you have the spark, you can continue to find work. She was lucky enough to even land a small role in a and do interesting work. People who have given up acting to film called Jinnah with an international mix of actors – she pursue other things have done so because they didn’t want to played Dinah, Jinnah’s only daughter. Talking about her film act anymore – I don’t think age is a factor in their decision to experience, she says “I was extremely privileged to be part of stop.” this film. It’s part of our history. Such projects don’t come Vaneeza is a self-proclaimed workaholic. “I have no time to along every day. I have never thought about a career in films do anything other than work. Any spare time I have, I end up though – I don’t know if I want to grow in this direction.” spending it with my family. I am very focused on my work – I Vaneeza has only good things to say about Jinnah, the don’t feel I am missing out in my life by working non-stop. I movie, which actually surprised me – “I think it was a good am very fulfilled and happy. ” photo credits: see page 68 movie.” I happened to disagree with Vinny’s assessment - I

79 r. Tajamal Hussain Bukhari needs no introduction my father had just retired from government service. I used to in the banking circles of Pakistan – he is a promi- look for ads in the paper – came across this ad in Dawn for a M nent figure, a major player in the growth of bank- British bank – they were looking to replace their ex-pat offi- ing and his professional experience spans decades of banking cers in Pakistan, some government policy that meant about in Pakistan—He spent thirty years in Standard Chartered bank fifty percent of British officers were to be replaced with local and was responsible for total banking affairs for the north of officers – this was way back in 1965. I went through the inter- Pakistan. He also spent 5 years abroad, working for a US in- view process and qualified for the job. I think one of my major vestment bank called Merrill Lynch. He returned to National qualifications for the job was good education from renowned Bank of Pakistan as the head of corporate bank – north – institutions - I studied at Hassan Abdal and Government Col- which include regions like Multan, Bahawalpur and Peshawar. lege Lahore.” Mr. Bukhari was keen to start his professional career right Mr. Bukhari has seen phenomenal growth in banking and after his masters in Economics from Government College, financial sectors of the economy during the past three decades. Lahore. “Being the eldest, I was eager to settle down and start “During the thirty five plus years of my professional career, I my career at an early age- I was just twenty one at the time - (Continued on page 81)

80 (Continued from page 80) proportional increase in demand and hence value of properties – this state of affairs can’t continue for much longer and prices have seen many changes in the finance & banking industry – will have to settle down at a reasonable and affordable level.” we have gone from the normal traditional conservative bank- Investment in Gawader is not a good move according to Mr. ing to highly competitive banking with innovative products Bukhari. “It’s a risky investment at best because the land be- and technology to totally automated banking. Things have ing offered to public is not as clearly identified as different come up considerably – there is high degree of competition housing colonies in different cities of Pakistan. Gawadar is not between banks which has resulted in technology advancement as planned as yet. Government should take over the land, and and introduction of many new products like consumer bank- then offer warehousing and commercial properties near the ing, leasing and investment banking. I think the banks played port to the public. It’s still risky as the land is in the hands of a key role in the economic growth of our country – if they had private sector– again, it’s purely speculative and risky proposi- not, growth would have been negative – banks have to follow tion. I do not recommend it.” the policies of the central bank, in this case, state bank of Explaining the investment options open to private sector and Pakistan – however, decision making was purely our own. individual investors, Mr. Bukhari says, “There are three types Banks played a key role in industrialization and creation of of investments, short term, medium term and long term. For infra structure in the country. The only difference between short term investment – investors can buy managed funds as I explained earlier. For medium term, my advice is to invest in the economy – shares and equities with sound companies with good history of payouts and dividends. For long term invest- ment, you can invest in property which is still cheap (there are The government machinery other options) and has the potential to increase in value. These properties ideally are now available on the outskirts of the is not conducive to increas- main cities, and are being developed as housing colonies by experienced and well known real estate developers.” ing per acre yield of agricul- Discussing the role of budget on our economy, Mr. Bukhari says, “People don’t pay taxes unfortunately. Our government ture – we may not need to has constraints – they have to meet expenses – defense and public sector development unfortunately costs a lot of money, import sugar and wheat the government has no other option but to increase taxes.” “Inflation is difficult to control,” declares Mr. Bukhari. “One since we have a lot of land measure is to cut rates. Foreign investments are still coming in – we are seeing a lot of development in the telecommunication lying vacant.” industry for example, PTCL has been privatized. Government Banks have been privatized, these are all good indicators.” So what’s the reason for the high utility bills & general high cost of living? “In the west, there is an abundance of cheap local and foreign banks is in the degree of sophistication; oth- energy – we are totally dependent on two forms of energy: erwise, both types of banks are doing the same kind of work.” hydro and Petroleum. Then there are line losses. It costs us Discussing the investment trends, Mr. Bukhari says, “The more to provide the same facilities that are available in devel- rates of profits offered by the government sponsored schemes oped countries comparatively cheaply. The only solution is were pretty high till about three to four years ago, resulting in economic growth to such an extent that there is self suffi- high investment from the middle class individual investors. ciency in basic needs of common man, this coupled with These rates were drastically cut. People started disinvesting in population control should ensure growth. We should place the banking schemes and started looking for avenues where they highest emphasis on agricultural growth since we keep insist- could make quick money which in turn gave a boost to local ing that our economy is mostly agrarian. The government ma- stock market. Stock market being highly speculative, inexperi- chinery is not conducive to increasing per acre yield of agri- enced investors lost their entire savings. Short term investors culture for example – we may not need to import sugar and always lose. Long term investors always gain. Good stocks of wheat since we have a lot of land lying vacant. Banks should solid companies not only go up in price but also pay hand- also be offering better facilities and investment packages to some cash dividends and bonuses several times a year. My farmers. Basic education is very important to our economic advice to small investors – do not to go into equities but to growth. There is a general increase in the crime rate—this is invest in funds which are managed by leading investment because of general poverty and lack of basic education. We houses – like Arif Habib securities, Faisal Islamic fund, NIT need more investment in these two key areas—education and (national investment trust) units. These funds are managed by agriculture. This would improve the overall standard of living experts, they only invest in securities which are sound and for everyone in our country.” have a viable business background.” Commenting on the high degree of investment in real estate, he says. “It’s just a phase because of the 9/11 incident. A num- Dear Readers! ber of Pakistanis who were settled abroad or had kept their Get your article published, event covered savings in overseas banks felt insecure and felt the need to Or for feedback letter to the editor or to subscribe Fashion Review: transfer their savings into their own country – initially all this Contact us at: [email protected], cell# 0345-412 7020 money went into property and stock market, resulting in dis-

81 allas, USA—Anila Q. Agha is one heck of an interesting girl. D She was the product coordina- tor at Meridian Sourcing and Design, Dallas USA. She left the company in August 2005 to pursue an Artist in Resi- dence, which is no mean feat consider- ing there are literally hundreds of appli- cants for this job and there is a heavy screening process involved before you actually qualify at the Houston Center for Contemporary Craft- a 6 month to a year program, she will also teach com- munity college as an adjunct professor alongside. She has a Masters degree in Fine Arts from the School of Visual Arts, University of North Texas, USA, a BFA in textile design from the National Col- lege of Arts, Pakistan, and a diploma for Anila with her son having a fun day in New York knitwear Design and Technology from Leicester Polytechnic, Leicester, United tined to live in mediocrity. I realize now started. I decided to stay and face the Kingdom. She has taught design at that the reason for all that discontent music. It has been hard but in the end Richland community college in Richard- was because I was not able to pursue my worth it for me.” son, TX, textile design at NCA and creative interests on a full time basis. It “Happiness is relative, some days draping and sewing at Pakistan school was a mutual decision between my hus- are very happy and other days are tough. of fashion design. She managed the total product development of the Levi’s “I had started feeling the discontent in brand at Levi Strauss Lahore liaison office, while moon lighting as the art my bones, making me wonder if I was director for TKFR. She has been a furni- ture designer, a model, a dress designer, destined to live in mediocrity.” a textile designer, not to mention a Sr. Merchandiser at Nabila Enterprises and Ammar Textiles and she achieved all band and I to finally move and find So I take it one day at a time,” maintains that before the age of thirty! greener pastures.” Anila. “Life here is very ordered and Pakistan didn’t pose enough of a Moving to USA was not easy for predictable as far as rules and law are creative challenge to Anila. She moved Anila. “To move anywhere is a problem, concerned so people can focus on issues to USA in 2001. Speaking about her but to move across continents is a com- that need to be dealt with instead of get- move, she says, “I had gotten bored with bination of bigger problems - geographi- ting stressed about why people are the life I was living in Lahore. I worked cally, emotionally and logistically. Peo- honking in a traffic jam or the electricity as a product development coordinator, I ple and families can feel complete dis- not being there when you need it! The don’t remember the exact title, but I placement and alienation from the cul- culture is very bland, and if one needs to took care of the product development ture, people and even within, once arri- add spice through work or other inter- for the Levi’s brand at Levi Strauss in val is complete in a new town/ country. ests it’s easy to do that. Also there is so the Lahore office. I also moonlighted as Nothing is familiar, no one understands much that is based on the entertainment an art director for TKFR. Plus any other and anonymity is total. It places a great media that life revolves around pop cul- creative tasks I could lay my hands on. deal of pressure on the individual to ture, which can be interesting or de- Obviously it wasn’t enough. I had keep it together and sometimes situa- pressing depending on a persons point started feeling the discontent in my tions create great divisions. You either of view. Overall I enjoy working hard bones, making me wonder if I was des- survive the ordeal or go back where you (Continued on page 83)

82 (Continued from page 82) however, place greater importance and getting ahead in life. Anything is upon why art is possible since it depends entirely on made. Content how much effort I put in any given task. informs the me- Having realized I am an eternal student, dium and process, I enjoy learning about my new career and I respond to and how I can exhibit my artwork in the requirement of shows around the country. I also have a the concept with full time day job which is demanding my choice of the and time consuming. I would like to add process. I see my- 6 more hours to my day to ensure I am self as a two di- able to perform at all levels positively.” mensional artist Anila finds her work interesting, working in mixed “my art work is an extension of what my media. My con- life has been in the past and what it is tinuing interest in working with textile responses. becoming going forward. I am deeply and Fiber Art processes is due to the Anila uses hand embroidery exten- interested in the domesticated aspects of many social issues inherent in the Fiber sively in her art work. “Embroidery em- a woman's life and how societies, cul- field. A multi-disciplinary orientation bodies essential femaleness of women. tures and inner emotions can impact allows me to articulate broad based con- The push of the needle and the pull of ones well being and productivity.” ceptual and technical skills. I the thread together present a marker Explaining the medium of her ex- find it intriguing to see an im- of domestic identity for women. The pression, she says, “Process and content print of an image left on the manipulation of paper or fabric by often overlap and complement each paper, before and after the ma- incorporating a needle piercing the other, but are by no means exhaustive in nipulation of dyes, wax and surface can elicit either a painful or the explanation of artistic practice. I, embroidery. The sense of his- joyous response. I want the embroi- tory through the addition of dery to be viewed both as a hu- wax and coffee or tea stains, mane action that helps in rejuve- adds to the depth of meaning nating old scars and also of being of the waxed surfaces. The destructive in its very act of results have allowed the art- penetrating the surface. The sub- work to be more conceptually versive role of embroidery is ambiguous. My artwork is fundamental in providing a com- made up of series of drawings plex scenario which is open that relate and connect through ended to viewer participation. basic concepts of social and The emotional connection to the gender based issues. The task repetitive task of embroidery of remembering and recreating generates therapeutic and healing history is painful due to the qualities suggesting an agonizing act of uncovering expectation of change in and recovering that which has the current perception of been stolen or forcibly taken gender roles.” away. The act of exposing memories when made in refer- Medium: mixed media ence to gender complexities on Paper with assorted brings out strong emotional sizes, 2001-2005

83 ahsir has been a big name that are no longer on the map. He was dominated by the huge woven opera- in the Lahore fashion in- there at the start of the new fashion tions like Gul Ahmed and Al-Karam. Y dustry since God knows wave that hit Lahore fifteen years ago – He’s managed to launch the product, when. He is a designer by inclination there were only handful of designer retain his position of being the number and by training. He’s a graduate from knitwear boutiques back in those days – one textile designer in the land and still NCA, Leicester Polytechnic and St. his was called Ai No Corrida. go on teaching at the fashion school. Martins UK. He was there at the start of Yahsir was there at the start-up of What I find so special about Yahsir Ammar Textiles. He was also there at the first fashion school in Pakistan. He is the fact that he keeps breaking new the start of Leisure Textiles, Sigma was also the first one to launch a whole ground in all kinds of new directions Knitting Mills and a few more factories new designer brand in a field that’s been that others have even not thought of yet,

84 making it possible for others to follow hood. We have worked very hard to any fashion magazine – you see more in his wake and managing to still stay build this brand. We need to do every- professional approach. We as an indus- consistent. So many people quit men- thing possible to safe guard our prod- try are getting better. I have not studied tally when they have achieved their ca- uct.” the current trends formally but I can see reer peak and start going downhill fast Discussing why he went in this di- it happening. Having said that, I believe because they are out of fresh ideas. rection, Yahsir says, “It’s my interest we still have a long way to go. Model- Yahsir teaches fashion drawing at too. I am a trained textile designer from ing requires new blood.” the Fashion School. “I have been affili- NCA – I wanted to do this. Rizwan “We are still not ready to launch ated with the school for the past 10 (Baig) was the first one – he collabo- fashion week from Pakistan,” says years. I always wanted to be a part of such a place. I am happy that this opportu- “We are still not ready to launch fashion week nity came my way,” says from Pakistan,” says Yahsir. “The international buy- Yahsir. “There is a big demand for our students by ers, they want something new. It will probably the export and design houses – take us another 5 years to get there.” they get absorbed very quickly by the industry. They are so versatile. A few of our graduates rated with Jubilee lawns, but yes, you Yahsir. “The international buyers, they are designing ready to wear for design are right, mine was the first independent want something new. It will probably houses like Generation, Chen One. Even designer label that was not affiliated take us another 5 years to get there. It couture designers are after our gradu- with any other brand. I just wanted to do was not overnight for India either– it’s ates. There has been a big growth in the it. It’s been very hard – but we have taken them time. There are a whole host fashion industry. I personally feel very managed to build a brand. We started of designers who still do not show their good about it. This institute is making with a budget limitation. From day one, collections – but now they have a big the fashion scene more professional.” we knew marketing was important. pool of designers. In Pakistan I think Yahsir has his own signature brand Gradually we have been increasing our Libas is the only one who’s doing 100% of summer prints which he launched ten budget. Now I have a team of people exports. I think most of the designers years ago. He is so successful that the who work with me on all aspects of the who claim that they’re exporting are market is full of fake and cheap imita- business.” only exporting local clothes and de- tions of his work. Yahsir has been tak- “We have to listen to our custom- signs.” ing steps to stop the production of coun- ers,” declares Yahsir. “We design for Discussing possible avenues for terfeits. “I filed a law suit against the them – my customer ranges from a 15 growth in the fashion industry, Yahsir counterfeiters last year, besides, my year old girl to a 70 year old mature says, “Embroidery is something we can designs are copyrighted. Its not enough lady. We have to keep this in mind build on and compete at the high end of though, you have to enforce the copy when designing. We have to put our the market internationally. Looking at right to make sure people do not in- customers first – their likes and dislikes all the factors I think breaking into the fringe on your rights. Last year I did that are important. At the end of the day, I high-end garment business is still tough – it’s been tough but I took the first step. have to design a commercially viable for Pakistan. I know of only one person It has already made a difference this product. We are doing mass production, who is willing to work in this direction - year because manufacturers have be- quantities are bigger. We cater to a large Jamima – she is sufficiently high profile come careful. They’ve changed it a bit. segment of society. It has to be a good and may give Pakistani design houses a Shop keepers have also reduced their balance. We keep changing constantly new direction. Again it’s a good sign stock of counterfeit. It’s not been com- to cater to changing tastes. Fashion is but international high end market means pletely eliminated yet. It’s an up hill about change, you have to keep up.” western fashion.” task. I even wrote to the world intellec- “Ours was the first brand to sell a “As an industry we are not ready to tual rights organization, (WIPO). They two piece fabric. Our signature is our cash in on the trends – we need to be have been guiding us. We can’t do color schemes. I think that’s our major stable as an industry first. Only then we much to stop the production of counter- strength,” declares Yahsir. can compete globally. We have skilled feit but we have managed to bring “Fashion has a bigger audience now people now. What we need now are awareness about the problem. We have because of the media. There is a big entrepreneurs who can think in this di- also managed to build pressure. I have demand for fashion,” asserts Yahsir. rection. Even international market in learnt during this process that the mes- “People want it now. I think it’s a good haute couture has scaled down. I don’t sage can go out there. The only way is sign. There are so many new labels, a lot think we can tap into this market,” con- to get people together and get it done. It more competition. This will definitely cludes Yahsir. affects us more because it’s our liveli- raise the standard of work. You pick up

85 (Continued from page 40) the government to step in and save the One international retailer that respects day. Why is that? They never thought of the consumers’ intelligence and their that’s hit Lahore. Our very own Adil the government when they set up shop. pocket is Ikea. Luckily they are also Sher is part of the dynamic duo. He’s What’s happened to all that self suffi- considering opening their stores in Paki- left Linmark International to set up and ciency? We are vertical because we can stan. They had a meeting with leading run this company. Hey Bilal, ab taira do everything ourselves philosophy? suppliers from all over Pakistan back in kia hoga kaalia? I understand real estate did it. They all April I think, informing them of their Anny Hung MCL/Linmark was also in decided to invest in land instead of peo- plans. They already have a sourcing town at the same time. She has been ple. Real estate is the hot new industry office in Karachi. Let’s see what they given the assignment to rescue Pakistan. in town. Everyone and his wife are do- come up with for Pakistan. Hmmm, Warnaco apparently has taken ing this business now. The real estate Did you see the new ABCD video? over the Hong Kong operations from bubble burst a few months ago. Prices My favorite dream by Ammar Bilal? Linmark and our Anny now has to look came down pronto or did they? If they How can he bear to waste so much after the failed state of Pakistani opera- did, what’s happened to Gulberg? It’s money on giant ego trips when his tions…ain’t that kind thoughtless behavior of funny? She’s not a means lots of people Pakistani, she’s not a have to be unemployed Lahori. She’s sup- to support his life style posed to understand at Sarah & Ammar what makes people Textiles? How can he tick here? She’s re- sleep at night? Dad ported to have met all dearest must be ready the vendors trying to to tear his hair out. find out how to im- Here he is trying to fix prove quality from the fate of Sarah & Pakistan. She stayed Ammar Textiles and for five days. Do you get these two factories think five days are back on track and his enough to understand kid is engaged in frivo- a different culture and lous activities to move make a difference at products out of the the same time? ABCD store. I know Linmark has also sex sells. I didn’t know hired new a MM for making silly videos was the Lahore opera- also a killer marketing tions. She’s been im- strategy. Well, you live ported from Canada. and learn. Wasn’t Belal imported from Karachi? turned into a commercial little town. Vf has downsized fifty percent of the And Peter imported from England? I People are selling up and moving to staff in their Lahore office. They ended understand the local populace thinks suburbs—Lahore is fast becoming the up beefing up the Karachi office more buying imported brands from abroad is a city of hot new shops and town houses. than Lahore since their sourcing needs sign of quality, a status symbol but I It used to be the city of gardens but what were not being met by the Lahore ap- didn’t know this mentality extended to the heck, this is called progress. Why parel industry. They are primarily inter- people too. Are imports really better should Lahore stay behind? It’s easier to ested in doing woven apparel out of than home produce? Only time will tell. cut trees to widen the roads than to teach Pakistan. Unfortunately, Lahore is more Stick around—I’ll update you on the drivers some basic lane discipline. Why knits specific. Major bummer. latest after the break! try? Iffat (Vf) has joined Li & Fung. No, Li About the import mentality, I heard Shops are empty because our wannabe & Fung is still low profile in Pakistan. through the grape vine that Target Cor- retailers and shop owners have still not For some reason, companies run by poration also bought into this myth and learnt the basic principle of selling – Hong Kong don’t seem to do well in imported some foreigners for the local your customer is not an idiot. You need Pakistan. I thought China was Pakistan’s office. They are not alone, Nestle and to treat them with deference by respect- best friend? I guess the governments Tetra Pak are two other companies that ing their intelligence. They also know forgot to advice their people! don’t trust local managers and must how much it costs to produce your prod- We keep saying we want to go inter- have a few key positions filled by ex- ucts—they have been around the block national. Fashion week seems to be the pats. Is it some kind of a comment on before coming to you genius. Why in- hot topic. Does anyone know you need our local brains? Or is it disguised big- sult their intelligence by selling substan- to actually design for the international otry? Kind of hard to figure that one out. dard quality for a high price? And then market before you can turn global and Business is a little down in the apparel tell them they don’t understand the invite the buyers from Bloomingdales, industry. Vendors are all moaning and value of your product because they are Next, Saks fifth Ave etc.,.. Hello—earth groaning, but no one wants to actively stupid? Would you buy if you were to mars, earth to mars—testing, testing! take charge. They would rather wait for treated like that?

86 A fashion trade magazine for the insiders by the insiders FashionApparel & Textiles Home Textiles Marketing consumer brand Designers, manufacturers, retailers

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