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Before the Arrival of Tea in Europe. the Chinese Beverage in Western View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by Archivio istituzionale della ricerca - Università degli Studi di Venezia Ca' Foscari 1 or tea drinking in Il Milione. 1. The departure of Marco Polo, LIVIO ZANINI Some scholars believe that these Livre des merveilles, circa 1412, Before the Arrival of Tea in Europe. omissions prove that Polo never reached ms. Français 2810, f. 4r (Paris, The Chinese beverage in western Cathay. Others point out that Il Milione is Bibliothèque nationale de France, sources prior to the 17th century actually the work of his Pisan editor who Département des Manuscrits). intended to write a chivalric romance based on Polo’s notes, which were The Chronica imaginis mundi written by mainly concerned with trade and other the Dominican friar Jacopo d’Acqui matters potentially of interest to the narrates that as Marco Polo lay dying, his Mongol ruler in whose service he was.2 friends gathered around his death bed to Moreover, at the time of Polo’s journey, beg him to renounce the exaggerations the Great Wall had been in ruins for and lies that he had told about his centuries and served no purpose to the journeys in Asia and that he refused new conquerers, footbinding had only their advice, claiming that he had not been recently introduced to Chinese mentioned even half of the wonderful society, and Chinese characters were things that he had seen.1 just one of the many incomprehensible Today we have no way of knowing writing systems encountered by the whether this episode described by Venetian traveller crossing the territories Jacopo d’Acqui really did take place or of the vast Mongol empire, explaining 1. MICHELI 1924, p. 158. what wonders Polo was alluding to, but why he did not notice these things or we do know that there are numerous consider them worth including. 2. The doubts raised about the veracity of gaps in his account of his travels. For As far as tea is considered, it is likely Polo’s journey by WOOD 1995, are refuted with example, there is no mention of the Great that Polo did encounter this drink, the support of abundant evidence by both Wall, of footbinding, Chinese characters, even if there is no mention of it in HAW 2006 and VOGEL 2012. 133 Il Milione. At the time of his arrival Hânfû (Guangzhou) in the 9th century in China, the custom of drinking a and described in the pharmacopoeia beverage prepared from the leaves of Kitāb al-saydana by the Persian scholar the tea plant (Camellia sinensis) had been Al-Biruni (973-1050).7 diffused throughout the country for at After conquering China and founding least four centuries.3 the Yuan dynasty (1279-1367), the The Classic of Tea or Chajing, the earliest Mongolian court took control of and known and the most famous of all extended the imperial cultivations China’s tea treatises, was published established by the Song, imposing strict during the Tang dynasty (618-906) controls on tea production and trading. 2 and the imperial tea gardens were So by the time of Marco Polo’s arrival, 2. Central Asian horse. opened during this same period. tea was not only widely used throughout Li Gonglin (1049-1106), Tea reached the height of popularity the Chinese empire, it was also known in Wuma tu, detail, 11th century in the courts of the Song dynasty the neighbouring lands. (Tokyo, National Museum). (970-1279) – whose fall was witnessed Maybe it was precisely the wide by Polo – subsequently spreading diffusion of tea drinking that caused through all levels of society. In 1107, Polo to consider it an ordinary Emperor Huizong (reigned 1100-1126), custom not worth dwelling on. who was famed as a scholar, artist, and Although Il Milione contains enthusiastic aesthete, wrote a treatise on tea4 that and sometimes blatantly exaggerated described Hangzhou, the last Song descriptions of twelve thousand stone capital, at the dawn of the Mongol bridges; of the streets, shops, and palaces conquest, with its streets lined with tea in Quisai (Hangzhou) and includes shops and tea houses.5 details about its inhabitants who “eat The monograph also contains a famous the flesh of dogs and other beasts, such passage listing the ‘Seven Necessities’ as no Christian would touch for the that one needed to live: “firewood, rice, world,”8 there is not even a passing oil, salt, soya sauce, vinegar, and tea”. 6 reference to the consumption of tea or By now tea was an essential component to the numerous tea houses serving this of the daily diet of most Chinese as beverage in the Song capital. well as being widely consumed among Over two and a half centuries would neighbouring peoples. pass before tea was mentioned in a text Already in the Tang period, tea was published in the West, thanks to another exported to Tibet, and during the representative of the Republic of Venice. Song dynasty huge quantities of tea The Trevisan Giovanni Battista Ramusio were sent to the Himalayan kingdom (1485-1557) served as secretary to the in exchange for the horses needed to ambassador of the Republic of Venice equip the Chinese armies fighting for many years before being appointed off the continuous incursions of secretary of the Council of Ten in 3. ZANINI 2005. nomadic peoples pushing at the 1553. Although Ramusio never actually north-western borders. travelled beyond Europe, he collected 4. Daguan chalun (Treatise on Tea of the The preparation of tea is depicted in a over fifty memoirs and accounts of Daguan Reign): CHEN 1999, pp. 70-72. few wall paintings of the Liao dynasty journeys and explorations spanning (1093-1117) founded north of the the period from classic antiquity until 5. Mengliang lu (Record of Reminiscing on the Past) Song empire by the Qidan, a federation of the 16th century that were published by Wu Zimu: CHEN 1999, p. 255; ZANINI 2012, tribes originally from Manchuria whose in three volumes under the title p. 29. name gave rise to the term ‘Cathay’. Delle navigationi et viaggi. Tea was also introduced to Japan during In the Dichiaratione included in the 6. ZANINI 2012, p. 29. this period, first spreading through the preface to the second volume, which 7. REINAUD 1845, vol. 1, p. 40; AL-BIRUNI 1973, Buddhist monasteries and then becoming was published posthumously in 1559 pp. 105-106. diffused among nobles and merchants. and contains the travels of Marco Tea was mentioned in the travel accounts Polo and the Venetian ambassadors 8. POLO 1845, p. 188. Italian version in of the Persian merchant Sulaiman al- in Persia, Ramusio describes a dinner POLO 1827, pp. 140-141. Tajir who travelled to in the port of party he attended in Murano in The Tea Gardens of Dazhangshan 134 International Carlo Scarpa Prize for Gardens 2019 3. Three ladies preparing tea. Wall painting in tomb of Zhang Shigu, detail, Xuanhua, Hebei, Liao dynasty (1093-1117). 3 the company of a Persian merchant began his account, explaining that originally from Chilan called Chaggi he had bought the rhubarb in Memet (the Turkish translation of person at Succuir (Jiuquan, in Gansu his Persian name H· ajji Moh· ammad), province), which was the first Chinese who had travelled to Venice with city encountered by travellers on a large consignment of rhubarb. the Silk Road. Also present were two of Ramusio’s Situated immediately after the oasis friends: Tommaso Giunti (1494-1566), of Dunhuang, foreign caravans were a Venetian printer and publisher of not allowed to proceed beyond this Delle navigationi et viaggi, and Michele point. He provided numerous details Sanmicheli (1484-1559), the celebrated about rhubarb, which was one of the Veronese architect and designer of most important medicinal substances numerous fortifications in the Venetian imported to Europe at that time and Levant. Another guest was Michele showed them a drawing of the plant. Membrè (1509-1594), an “expert in Then noticing Ramusio’s interest Arabic, Persian, and Turkish”9 appointed in hearing about these matters, as the Republic’s official Turkish H· ajji Moh· ammad told him of another interpreter by the Senate in 1550 and plant grown and used by the Chinese: who rendered his services to Ramusio “he told me that all over Cahay they on this as on other occasions. made use of another plant or rather of After the meal, the Persian merchant its leaves. This is called by those people 9. RAMUSIO 1559, c. 14v. Livio Zanini, Before the Arrival of Tea in Europe. The Chinese beverage in western sources prior to the 17th century 135 5 Chai Catai and grows in the district Goa and the following year he captured of Cathay which is called Cacian-fu.10 the Malacca Sultanate, a tributary This is commonly used and much of the Ming empire (1368-1644). esteemed all over those countries. From 1514 onwards, Portuguese ships They take of that herb, whether dry began to trade in Chinese ports and or fresh, and boil it well in water. three years later King Manuel I sent One or two cups of this decoction a letter via a diplomatic mission taken on an empty stomach removes to the court of Beijing. However, fever, headache, stomach ache, pain in due to a combination of factors 4 the side or in the joints, and it should including the intervening death of 4. Giovanni Battista Ramusio, be taken as hot as you can bear it. the Zhengde Emperor (1505-1521), the Delle navigationi et viaggi, He said, besides, that it was good for no mistrust of the Chinese authorities and Stamperia de Giunti, Venice 1559, end of other ailments which he could the complaints of the deposed Malaccan title page.
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