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29/08/2012 Tides of Time Islands THE GLOBAL EDITION OF THE NEW YORK TIMES ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT WEDNESDAY,AUGUST 29, 2012 | 1 Stromboli is in a state of permanent eruptive activity. The Aeolian Islands provide continuing examples of volcanic activity as well as a geological history of volanic formation AEOLIAN ISLANDS | A living textbook for geologists Earth, wind, fire and water, and millennia of human history arth, wind, fire and water: The Aeolian Islands en- such as those in 2002, 2004 and 2007 —unleashed Filicudi and Alicudi are the most remote and least in- swells. Official figures cite 200,000 visitors in summer About World Heritage capsulate these classical elements identified as local tsunamis that caused some damage (but no loss habited; no cars are allowed, so transportation is either months; locals suggest twice as many during the CORBIS TheA paraimtnershipof the WorldforHeritagethe oceans E building blocks of the universe by ancient cultures of life) to the island’s residential areas. on foot or on a local donkey. Panarea, by contrast, is the August peak. / around the world. Surrounded by the Tyrrhenian Sea, Each of the seven main islands in the archipelago smallest island with the most varied scenery, the chic- Visitors come for the warm, clear water, the sense of ‘‘TidesConvention,of Time’’adoptedis a partnershipby Unesco members in 1972, is ‘‘to encourage about 12 miles (20 kilometers) off the north coast of Sic- has a different topology and character, in spite of their est hotels and the highest prices. isolation —and a certain cinematic cachet. ‘‘Stromboli among Jaeger-LeCoultre, the the identification, protection and ily, the archipelago takes its name from Aeolus, the common origins. Lipari, the largest, The islands, which range in size is probably our best-known island because of the film International Herald Tribune and the WESTEND61 UnescopreservationWorldofHeritageculturalCentre’sand natural Greek god of the winds. The land mass of the seven is the most populated and commer- ‘Twenty-four hours of travel from Panarea’s 3.4 square kilome- ‘Stromboli,’ starring Ingrid Bergman,’’ muses Giorgianni. / MarineheritageProgram.around theSinceworld2009, with main islands and six islets is entirely volcanic in nature, cial, with a bustling port and, until ters to Lipari’s 37 square kilometers, ‘‘Never mind that it was made 62 years ago; some for- time separate western Jaeger-LeCoultre’sconsidered to be ofsupport,outstandingthe including several still-active craters —primordial earth 2007, a pumice mining industry. or 1.3 to 14 square miles, host a per- eigners still come here because of it. The 1994 film ‘Il RIETZE Alicudi from eastern marineuniversalareavaluecoveredto humanity.’’by the World and quintessential fire. Salina is the greenest and most ag- manent population of 15,000. Postino’ was partly filmed in Salina, and some Italians Heritage‘‘TidesConventionof Time’’ ishasa partnershipdoubled in As if these characteristics weren’t enough to qualify ricultural, famed for its capers and ‘‘We may not have a large popula- are attracted to Salina for that reason.’’ Stromboli’ MARTIN size.amongIn DecemberJaeger-LeCoultre,2010, aUnesco’sfirst the islands for World Heritage status, they also serve as malvasia wines. Vulcano boasts tion,’’ says Lipari’s mayor, Marco Visitors may also be attracted by the islands’ cultural meetingWorld Heritageof a largeCentregroupandof Worldthe a living textbook for volcanologists. Two of the six classic black beaches, bubbling fumaroles and beauty spas; Giorgianni, ‘‘but Iamresponsible for the largest territory riches. While its World Heritage designation is for natural HeritageInternationalsite managersHerald Tribune.from aroundThe types of volcanic eruptions —Vulcanian and Strom- visitors come here to wallow in sulfuric mud baths (toler- in Italy in terms of surface area if you include water. attributes, the islands boast an archeological record dat- theseriesworldpresentswas heldsomein Hawaii.of the peopleThe bolian —echo the names of eponymous islands in the ating the smell that goes with them). Twenty-four hours of travel time separate western ing back to the neolithic period, 10,000 B.C. The succes- eventwho areledhelpingto the birthpreserveof a communitymarine Aeolian archipelago. Both Vulcano and Stromboli are ac- Stromboli offers a spectacular sight at nightfall —a Alicudi from eastern Stromboli —arange that makes sive Bronze Age left traces on Panarea and Filicudi. The sitesof 45 onsitethemanagersWorld Heritagethat couldList. tive. Billows of black gases issue from vents, or fumar- live volcano stretching its fiery fingers upward at regular for very different cultures. Stromboli feels close to ancient artifacts found here —objects from Etruscan, becomeTo seea videosdriver foraboutimprovedWorld oles, on Vulcano and in the sea surrounding it. Strom- intervals. Visitors can climb to the top with a guide and Naples, Alicudi to Palermo.’’ Greek, Carthaginian and Roman conquerors —beneath Heritageconservationmarineforsites,all 6,000visitprotectedthe ‘‘Tides boli’s three craters have technically never stopped observe from a safe distance or watch the show from a All the islands, with the possible exception of Alicudi, the iconic volcanoes, surrounded by the elements, make ofmarineTime’’areasarchiveon theat whc.unesco.org/planet. erupting, and its more dramatic recent outbursts — boat anchored offshore. feel crowded in July and August, when the population the Aeolian Islands unique. [ DEVELOPMENT | Toward responsible tourism Efforts to preserve the archipelago’s ‘essential character’ million years in the making, the Aeoli- an Islands, off the north coast of Sic- A ily, have fascinated mankind for mil- lennia. The ancient Greeks believed that the wind god, Aeolus, resided on Lipari (one of the archipelago’s seven main islands), hence the name. Early residents wondered whether they were living atop an entrance to the underworld, whence came vapors from fumaroles and sulfuric emissions from craters. Medieval monks speculated that IMAGES the rumbles of these volcanoes were the cries of dead souls. GETTY ‘‘Here, legends are born,’’ says Giuseppe / La Greca, president of the Aeolian Islands chapter of the Italian environmental group DAVILLA Legambiente. La Greca’s passion for his LUIS homeland led him to research and publish nine books about Aeolian history and culture. The harbor of Marina Corta in the town of Lipari, on the largest and most populous of the islands. The islands became the first World Herit- age site in Italy recognized for natural — history since antiquity, and vested interests of tourism in the islands’ economy. There is rather than cultural —characteristics, in were loathe to abandon amajor source of no doubt about the importance of tourism. 2000. La Greca had followed the nomina- income. Although the mines were supposed ‘‘The battle is between those who want to tion process since 1996, when the proposal to be closed in 2000, activity continued un- develop the tourist trade to the maximum began to take shape. The focus centered on der the guise of removing stockpiles for sev- and the environmentalists who want to be the volcanoes, since they have been attracting eral more years. Mining activity was definit- cautious,’’ notes La Greca. scientists for more than 200 years. ‘‘Tutelage ively stopped in 2007 following pressure by La Greca cites the example of hotels on of the volcanoes was key,’’ says La Greca. Italian national and local authorities. An idea the island of Vulcano. In the 1960s, it was In addition to the volcanoes, the islands’ currently being examined would transform practically deserted. As tourism grew, con- qualities include their natural beauty, avari- one of the now-abandoned pumice quarries struction followed, but it was unregulated and ety of indigenous flora and fauna (orchids, into amuseum documenting the impact of unattractive, interrupting the volcanic vistas. bats, birds and lizards), and archeological the pumice industry on the development of Today, there are building requirements, but treasures dating back to the Bronze Age. the islands and the surrounding region. unsightly buildings still exist, he says. Pumice mining has been part of Lipari’s Another set of issues surrounds the role Transportation is another matter. The lack of an airport on Lipari limits the number of visitors during peak summer months. Some rumors about airport development alarmed Unesco officials —among others An extraordinary timepiece powered by the air —in the last decade. However, the topo- Perpetual motion has fascinated temperature of only one degree is graphy of the islands is such that an airport scientists for centuries, in part enough to provide the watch with a is not realistic, says Lipari’s current mayor, because of its unobtainability: two-day power reserve. Marco Giorgianni. perpetual motion in an isolated Eliminating friction in such a An enlargement of the port of Lipari has system violates the second law of high-precision instrument is also been discussed. Giorgianni says he is thermodynamics. But in the 1920s, essential, so its arm is suspended not opposed in principle to enlarging the port, a young Swiss engineer working in from a ultrathin wire of steel alloy, but he does not approve of recent proposals Paris, Jean-Léon Reutter, invented a and its gearing is so exact that it that advocate dramatic commercial expan- clock that, while not a perpetual- requires no lubrication. sion. ‘‘A proposal that strips us of our identity motion machine, required no Theoretically, the extraordinary
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