Hamburg St. Pauli the Heart of Hamburg Contents
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HAMBURG ST. PAULI THE HEART OF HAMBURG CONTENTS 04 St. Pauli Experts 38 Theatre & Musicals 08 The Daytime Tour 40 Reeperbahn 14 Shopping 42 Reeperbahn Festival 20 Galleries & Museums 46 Restaurants & Cafés 24 HafenCity 52 Hamburg without Limits 26 Cruise 54 Pubs & Bars 28 Events & Markets 58 Clubs & Live Venues 30 FC St. Pauli 62 Staying Overnight 32 The Evening/Night Tour 66 Adults Only 74 City Map 76 Underground Map TOP-TIP: Watch out for our top tip hotels: We have personally inspected these hotels for you and are convinced that they offer good quality, excellent service, and a central location. Hamburg CARD – your ticket to discovery Free travel by bus, rail and harbour ferries, as well as top condi- tions at more than 150 tourist attractions, where you see this symbol. Further information at: hamburg-tourismus.de/card Advice. Booking. Service. Tel. +49 (0)40.300 51 958 3 “What makes St. Pauli so ST. PAULI special are the district’s uniqueness and the way the people stick together. My EXPERTS absolutely favourite place in the quarter is the St. Pauli THOMAS ANGELE, JULIA CATHARINA Church. It is a place of calm STARON, VICTOR HACKER and reflection, in contrast to the hustle and bustle on St. Pauli.” Thomas Angele (owner “Der Kiezbäcker”) Three people told us what they thought about St Pauli, and they ought to know. Our St. Pauli experts have all taken this neighbourhood into their hearts and made it their home. Each in their own way, but all with an unwavering love of the cosmopolitan and passionate heart of Hamburg, which is no longer just a district and has instead become a legend. 04 044 5 ST. PAULI EXPERTS Diversity “The Kiez is Hamburg’s flam- boyant and wild side, and I fell in love with it straight away. A village where the whole world is at home, filled with a unique family feeling.” Julia Catharina Staron, restaurateur, booker, curator at the Sankt Pauli Museum “St. Pauli lives from its diversity. The meeting of different characters. Its mix of a wide variety of individuals. The rough and the smooth – the contrasts are a necessary part of the “human melting pot” of St. Pauli. As someone who alternates between nostalgia and the modern, I can get equally enthusias- tic about the past and the future. I like it most of all when you can experience both at the same time: Like in the Gun Club on Hopfenstraße. Old-school punk rock and contemporary weird people are both at home here.” Viktor Hack- er, dubbing actor, author, humorist and doorman on the Kiez 06 077 THE DAYTIME TOUR AROUND THE REEPERBAHN You can see the exact route of the tour on the St. Pauli map on page 74. The Reeperbahn is famous and notorious for its wild night-life, but we also absolutely recommend that you take a look at this sinful mile by daylight – especially as you can find all Hamburg’s varied attractions nearby. A colourful citizen’s project with a special flair: Park Fiction. 8 099 THE DAYTIME TOUR Variety The perfect start to an exciting its numerous cafés (e.g. Café Before you set off on your way apartments, office buildings and sightseeing tour. If you start Geyer) and restaurants, radiates there, however, it’s worth making hotels of the Neue Hafenkrone your voyage of discovery at the calm and serenity. a side trip into the BAVARIAN district. The legendary Astra S-BAHN-STATION REEPER- QUARTER – a genuine architec- beer was brewed here up to BAHN (stairs at HANS-ALBERS Because even a loud and licen- tural eye-catcher. The best way 2003. SQUARE), you are already in the tious quarter like St. Pauli needs to get there is via BERN- immediate vicinity of two famous a haven of peace (and a place for HARD-NOCHT-STRASSE with hotspots of Hamburg nightlife: atonement): If you follow its houses and pubs, typical for On your right is Silbersackstraße Antonistraße, you pass the ST. the Kiez, or via HAFEN- with the cult pub “Zum Silber- PAULI CHURCH, which opened STRASSE, the colourful façades sack”, where celebrities like in 1911. A little further straight of which are reminiscent of the Heinz Rühmann, Freddy Quinn ahead, the docks and loader years between 1984 and 1990 – and Hildegard Knef amused cranes come into view. At the of political resistance, squatted themselves decades ago. Just a end of the road in PARK FIC- houses, and street battles. On few metres further straight TION – an urban oasis with arti- the site of the former Bavaria-St. ahead, you can see the tranquil ficial palms – you finally have a Pauli Brewery, there are now the side of St. Pauli: The picturesque splendid view over the Hamburg HEIN-KÖLLISCH-PLATZ, with harbour. PANIK CITY – LINE A – The Udo Lindenberg Experience led by the guides through the The Red Double Decker planks 1-2, on the Reeperbahn The multimedia exhibition PANIK different stages of Udo’s life in a With the day ticket of Line A opposite the Davidwache and CITY – THE UDO LINDENBERG 90-minute tour . you can explore all the facets of the Hafentreppe. EXPERIENCE is located on the this fascinating harbour Reeperbahn, on an area of daily approx. 10 am–10 pm at metropolis. A day of hop-on, die-roten-doppeldecker.de around 700 m², in the St. Pauli the Klubhaus St. Pauli, Spielbuden- hop-off exploration. The stops #hamburgerleben Clubhouse, which has a media platz 21–22, panikcity.de in St. Pauli are on the gang- façade, which has won many awards. This innovative techno- logical, artistic, and cultural project traces the musical, artistic and socio-political activities of the excep- tional artist Udo Lin- denberg and uses innovative technology to bring them to life. Groups of up to 20 people are 10 11 THE DAYTIME TOUR Variety The two tubes of the old Elbe Tunnel at the gangplanks. From here you have the perfect come across the restored sailing view of the heart of Hamburg: ship Rickmer Rickmers, 97 The GANGPLANKS with their metres long, and one of the last Panoptikum – domes and the gauge tower. tall ships of commercial ship- The Waxworks This former “water railway sta- ping. From here you can already 120 life-sized wax figures of tion” for passenger shipping is see another highlight: The ELBE famous personalities, from now a hub for Elbe ferries, and PHILHARMONIC. Hamburg’s Elizabeth II to Olivia Jones, underground and suburban rail- new landmark and flagship is an await you in the Panoptikum, ways. At its western end is the architectural work of art and a Germany’s oldest waxworks. entrance of the OLD ELBE unique concert-house offering a Selfies are more than welcome. TUNNEL. Pedestrians, car driv- magnificent view of Hamburg’s A free audio guide takes you ers and cyclists can reach the harbour from its publicly acces- through the exhibition. other side of the Elbe through sible plaza. And now that you the two 426.5 metre long tun- are already here, we recommend Spielbudenplatz 3, 20359 Hamburg, tel. 040.31 03 17 nels of this splendid listed con- that you make another side trip panoptikum.de struction. into HAFENCITY – Hamburg’s A few hundred metres further biggest building project. Opening hours: Mon–Fri 11 am–9 pm, to the east of the Elbe, you will Sat 11 am–midnight Sun 10 am–9 pm 12 13 SHOPPING KIEZ, SCHANZE & KAROVIERTEL The throwaway society is outdated – at the product design factory Lockengelöt everything revolves around the recycling of everyday objects through re-purposing. Lockengelöt This factory gives everyday objects a new face. Vinyl fans are par- ticularly well-catered for here: Bowls, egg-cups, and lamps are manufactured by hand from old records. A couple of oil barrels also find a new use as a smart cupboard, and books are turned into wardrobes. You will be impressed by both the design and the recycling factor. Marktstr. 114, Mon–Fri 11 am–7 pm, Sat 11 am–6 pm, lockengeloet.com Art Kiosk Art Kiosk is tucked between a greengrocer and a hairdresser in the most beautiful road of St. Pauli. The shelves are full of many lovingly handmade unique items from various Hamburg artists: self- carved children’s toys, clothing, unusual jewellery, and accessories. The monthly exhibitions provide an extra serving of art on top. Paul-Roosen-Str. 5, Mon–Sat 11 am–7 pm, kunstkiosk-hamburg.de Young, original, special – the Vergizzmeinnicht is typical of 14 St. Pauli’s creative scene. 15 SHOPPING Kiez Dekoop Design Sisterhood.Brotherhood Functional and rooted in the region: As well as Berkemann health shoes, including key racks with Hamburg fashion fans will also find footwear motifs or pendants made of felt with from Gola, Le Coq, and Dunlop. The a screen print St. Pauli inscription. range of clothing extends from swim- Kleine Freiheit 1 / Laden 8, wear to revival underwear to Finnish dekoop.de fashion, great accessories and gifts. Oh, and you can also find coffee The Wohngeschwister have the furniture and accessories to Kunsthaltestelle and espresso beans here, organic and suit every taste. The shelves are adorned by design fair-traded of course. products from Hamburg and all over Balduinstr. 15, Mon–Fri 12 pm– Germany, such as maritime-themed 7.30 pm, Sat 11 am–6 pm jewellery, cool home accessories and Special artistic porcelain. Every fourth Friday in Bidges & Sons Oldest Tattoo Studio in Germany Groove City Recordstore the month is “Exhibition Friday”, when An insider tip among the inhabitants of From skulls to flowers – a variety of This record shop in the Karoviertel sup- works by a changing selection of artists St.