words by Glenn Routledge

quick early flight from Heathrow and wonder that it still retains the charm of the changing at Milano Linate for Jackie Onassis era. Napoli, finds you walking out into The air is fresh, bright sunshine, the the hot Neapolitan sunshine. Taking a fast lapping of the blue sea and birds singing in taxi ride across couldn't be easier as the trees, for a moment you may think you the taxi driver zipped in and out of the early afternoon traffic, a glimpse out of the "This is , where your first window reveals the soaring Mount impressions will last forever" Vesuvious. Getting to Capri meant taking a ferry from the port and then being whisked have walked into someones private movie. across the hay of Naples in a matter of 45 But this is Capri, where your first minutes. impressions will last forever. Driving Everyone arrives at Marina Grande, upwards on the steep roads to you Capri's famous bustling port. There is an air can't help but stare back at Marina Grande of chaos as the gold braided smartly dressed and admire the natural beauty of the island, porters and hotel representatives unload looking over to Sorrento in the far distance. baggage into awaiting cars on the quayside. The striped cotton canopy roof of the This crack operation is repeated daily, a sort mercedes flapping in the breeze as the of chaos that probably has continued since driver skilfully manoeuvres the car uphill, the early 30's. shunting back and forth to let other drivers Open top white mercedes are ready to narrowly squeeze by. transport guests to their hotels on the Capri is still as stylish as it ever was, island, along the small windy tree lined and the big designer names are all there for roads which soar up to Anacapri at the top the visiting. A short walk from Piazza of the island. There's a distinct feel of 'La Umberto will bring you to joyful shops, Dolce Vita' in the air here and it's no boutiques, bakeries and ice cream parlours. The ritual early evening 'passegiata' is a circular swimming pool and set in a daily pilgrimage to the grotto to almost like the run up to fashion week, mediterranean green roof garden. experience the vivid blue cavern although even the passing tourist can Luxurious without doubt! interior. Orderly chaos seems to be look chic in a pair of torn earthy jeans Keanu Reeves, is a regular visitor to taking place as you join the long queue nowadays. Sandals are a big hit here in Capri visiting the Capri Palace SPA winding down the rock face, then Capri and I'm told that people travel (Salus per Aquam) when he stays in you'll be whisked into a row boat to over from Naples to buy them. Antonio Anacapri with his sister, who has a the floating cash desk to pay your eight Viva has been handmaking his own home here. Not surprising prices on euros (£6) entrance fee. personal style of sandal in Anacapri the island can be moderately high and Motor boats full of people are can be compared to those of Venice bobbing up and down in the water all and Rome. But this does not stop the waiting to be transferred into rowboats multitudes of day tippers who hop on for their chance to see the grotto. The and off the boats and hydrofoils at boatman shouting and gesticulating to Marina Grande, some of whom never each other carnival fashion. "Ciao seem to stray beyond the port area. Franco ...via via!!" The funicolare railway connects The entrance to the grotto is a Marina Grande with the centre of narrow opening in the limestone rock, Capri and the tiny flagged Piazza Umberto which is more or less the "There are more than 700 species tourist centre of Capri. A round trip to of plants here on Capri" and from the port will cost you less than 3 euros. You'll be surprised by the and the technique is to lie down on the many seated people in Piazza rowboat floor as the boatman performs Umberto, eating, drinking and ice a dipping action to pop the boat under cream licking in the hot sunshine. and into the dark grotto. Turn around Waiters whisking thinks to tables on and take a look at the grotto entrance shiny silver trays and countless and you will be stunned by the multilingual conversations taking wonderful turquoise blue light place, interrupted now and again by radiating inwards- the ringing of mobile phones which , seems to add to the daily hubbub of which is the the caprese 'sweet life'. islands largest for over 40 years and his shop is The island has much to offer in the imperial villa, crammed sky high with sandals of all way of scenery, short walks and tours built for types and colours. by bus or taxi. Many excursions are at the beginning One of the top hotels on the Island only 15 to 20 minutes out of Marina of the first is the 5 star luxurious Capri Palace Grande and the centre of Capri itself. century AD can Hotel & Spa, visited by the likes of One trip to make is to see where be reached by Donatella Versace, Harrison Ford, and Dame Gracie Fields beloved home was walking from the Mariah Carey. The Hotel is set high in on the island, because for most centre of Capri Anacapri, overlooking the most towards Via exclusive part of the island and has a "No trip to Capri would be Tiberio, then great panoramic view of the complete without visiting the following this surrounding sea. This is also the only famous " narrow winding hotel with 'private pools' adjoining street for about 45 some of the 9 suites on offer here, in northerners from the UK, Capri is minutes past leafy addition to the 82 stylish bedrooms. A synonymous with 'Our Gracie' the gardens and tree special feature is the 'Megaron Suite' famous wartime singer. Her home is lined paths. Eventually you will reach which is the only one of its kind on now 'Canzone del Mare' (Song of the the entrance to the villa, and its ruined the island, a 150 metre penthouse with Sea) at , where you can walls. Wild flowers are as much in rent a lounger and abundance here as the rest of the idle the day away island and there are more than 700 in the hot caprese species of plants here. The botanical sunshine, to the writer mentions sound of waves this in his studies made here. crashing against Even though Mount Tiberio is the rocks below. almost 1,028 feet above the sea. The There's a small baking hot sunshine makes this an collection of ideal place for a viewpoint and affords artifacts and magnificent views of the island and memorabilia the Gulfs of Naples and Salerno. dedicated to Emperor Tiberius governed Rome from Gracie, including here for ten years until his eventual photos and record death in AD 37. sleeves. located in No trip to Capri Anacapri and built by Swedish doctor would be complete is well worth a visit. His without visiting famous 1929 book 'The Story of San the famous 'Grotta Michele' was an instant success and Azzura'. Crowds of bestseller. "I want my house open to tourists make their the sun and wind and the voice of the sea, like a Greek temple, and light, Across the Piazza you will light, light everywhere," he wrote. find 'Trattoria - Pizzeria Mamma The villa remains as it was many Giovanna', Via Boffe 3/5, which years ago with ancient columns, seemed as if the whole family statues and marble floors which lea d were involved in the running of this downstairs trattoria. A wide "Not to be missed is the chairlift to variety of food was on offer, the top of " including fresh fish, beef and chicken. Steak Pizzaiola was my out onto the open air terraces main course, tangy bite fresh festooned with bright flowers, tomato, basil and garlic sauce. wonderful plants and numerous To die for! Home made sweets statues of the gods. and desserts were being ordered Not to be missed is the chairlift left right and centre, no sooner ride up to the top of Monte Solaro arriving at the tables than being which is the islands highest point at devoured by the eager customers. 2,000ft. For a mere five euros (£4) My favourite was definitely round trip you are transported in your 'Ristorante da Paolino' Via own private open seat for a 15 minute , 11. On route to journey to the summit. Travelling the restaurant my taxi driver upwards you can look down below remarked, "You have made a good into the many gardens and terraces of choice to eat". 'Da Paolino' is vines, and there is an amazing situated not far from Marina breathtaking view out across to the sea, Grande and set beneath pergola's you can even see the boats at the Blue of large fragrant lemons. Grotto. The chairlift was a hit with The largo open air restaurant everyone and I own up to taking four was busy to bursting on this rides, all in one afternoon! warm Thursday evening and the tiramisu, torta della nonna, zuppa You'll find many things to do on atmosphere was so lively and happy. inglese and these wonderful small Capri and a visit to the Tourist Office Sitting at your table beneath the fresh lemon balls rolled in coconut. I feasted in Piazza Umberto will help you sort lemons was a memorable experience, my eyes on another rotunda, which out an itinerary for your stay. They not to mention my astonishment at the was covered in fresh sweets, desserts, publish many excellent guides and massive choice of antipasti on offer at pastries and fruit. Totally amazing! maps for the tourist. Look out for the the rotunda, located just off the dining Finally, a complimentary glass of nine recommended walks and area. The pale lemon dressed waitress sharp citrus 'Limoncello'. A real bite excursions guide which is a colourful encouraged everyone to visit the and a kick to it, made me guess that cartoon like publication that became rotunda and help themselves. this was home-made perhaps? 'Da my trusty friend for the week after I Paolino' is definitely worth heading had parted company with my personal "My favourite was definitely out to, just ask any friendly taxi driver Caprese guide named Romana- Ristorante da Paolino" and you'll be there in minutes from There are some excellent Marina Grande. restaurants and trattorias to be found There was everything you could Leaving Capri, brought a tear to my about the island too. Many of them not possibly imagine, almost 40 or so eye as the hydrofoil headed out to sea, so big, but full of life and friendly as dishes of sumptuous food. Aubergine, watching the island fade away in the you would expect. 'Ristorante tuna, chick peas, onions, fish, squid, distance. This is one place I'll be Materita' Piazza Diaz, Anacapri is beans, salame and cheeses, but to coming back... 'alla prossima, Capri!' known for its local name a few. specialities and has Returning to my about 20 tables table with a loaded inside and 10 plate I was quickly tables under a offered a 'pasta covered outdoor bombe' a hot deep awning. Good fried large pastry attentive service in filled with a relaxed mozzarella cheese atmosphere, and fine ham then combined with served with small well presented vine tomatoes and food makes this a good choice for an rich basil - and of course I didn't early evening meal. Insalata Caprese refuse! Ravioli Caprese was my next was my choice, with large vine choice, eight medium sized pasta tomatoes and that special flavour you 'cakes' filled with delicious cheese and can only find in itself. Torta covered in a light sauce, decorated Caprese rounded off the meal, my first with large basil leaves and shavings of tasting of this local sweet and being a cheese. One thing I noticed was the total chocolate addict I was not one bit absence of the ubiquitous black pepper disappointed. An excellent grinder, in fact I began to think that the combination of almonds, chocolate islanders didn't like the stuff! and vanilla, a little on the dry sticky Dessert was field day time for me, I side but the manager recommended I just had to sample everything and try it with vanilla ice cream. helped myself to lemon profiteroles, Oceans of ink have been spilt about the origins and borrowing from of Caprese cooking. But the facts seem to tell us that it was the romantic beauty of Capri that gave the cuisine its flavour and not the other way round. The many influences on Caprese cuisine, including the mysterious menus consumed by Rilke and Yourcenar, by Toto and Godard, by Marinetti and Savinio. All enticed by this wonderful paradise and kept there by the aromas that cannot be found elsewhere. There is something seductive about this 'mystical' cuisine, the truth only to be found on Capri itself...

Even though the glory of having promoted cooking and loving vegetarian cooking, the the Caprese salad goes to the culinary futurists could therefore fight against imagination of a Caprese and later to the "weight, paunches and obesity," ignorant appetite of King Farouk. The futuristic of its caloric content. Certainly true is the dinners organised at the historic Hotel story-made immortal in the 1950's - of Quisisana in the 1920s by Marinetti and his the presumptuous request of the Egyptian companions, the tri-color union of King Farouk, who, returning in the "fiordilatte" mozzarella was already hinted afternoon from the beach of Marina at (the use of "bufala" mozzarella was less Piccola, desired to "stay light" and asked certain on the island), green salad, basil for something unique: he was served a hot and ripe tomatoes made up this dish. sandwich filled with fragrant Caprese salad Distaining stupid pasta and conventional flavoured with oregano.

insalata caprese caprese salad

ingredients

Very fresh mozzarella Salad tomatoes Basil, oregano Extra virgin olive oil

This is a very simple dish to make, the success of which is based on the quality of its ingredients. The mozzarella, which must be very fresh and at room temperature, is cut into fairly thick slices that are arranged on the dish with slices of tomatoes on top. Then add the basil leaves, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, and, if you wish, add a little oregano to give the dish the flavor of the mediterranean. This is one of the island's dishes that the Emperor Tiberius, who was cruel, but a vegetarian, is said to have celebrated with his skilled vegetable gardener Serpullo. The ruins remain of his general neighborhood, Villa Jovis, which can be reached from the center of Capri along a flowered path with a view. They are evocative and eloquent in their nakedness. The writer Graham Greene, who in the 1940s bought the house of , Il Rosajo, hidden in the greenery on the edges of Anacapri, also appreciated this springtime dish of Neapolitan origins ingredients

2 artichokes 16 new potatoes 2 zucchinis 1 bunch of green asparagus 100g of shelled peas 1 yellow bell pepper courtesy 1 red bell pepper Azienda Autonoma Cura Soggiorno e Turismo Half an onion Isola di Capri 8 small tomatoes 100g of shelled broad beans Extra virgin olive oil Parsley and basil to taste Homemade bread Salt, to taste

SERVES 4

Delicately brown finely chopped onions in olive oil in a casserole pot. Clean all of the vegetables very thoroughly. Dry them and cut them in mid-sized pieces, with the exception of the new potatoes, which should just be peeled and placed whole in the casserole. Let the vegetables cook for about fifteen minutes over medium heat, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon to prevent them from sticking to the pot. If the vegetables are starting to stick, just add a ladleful of hot water. As soon as the water released from the vegetables has been completely absorbed, taste the dish with a fork. When the vegetables are soft enough, cover everything with lukewarm water. Put in the salt and let them cook over low heat until the potatoes are well cooked and soft. As soon as it is ready, place the Cianfotta in clay bowls, placing on top some slices of homemade bread that have been toasted on the grill, the stove or in the oven. For this dish to be its best, all of the vegetables must be very fresh. delizie al limone lemon treats lt is said that the Swedish doctor and writer Axel Munthe tasted the soft lemon treats "under the yellow pergolas of "Femminelli" lemons in his Villa San Ingredients Michele, white, at the edges of Anacapri, he admired the magnificent view of Mount 5 eggs Solaro covered by bilberries and broom." 160g sugar Going to Naples in 1883 to help the bog flour cholera victims, Munthe took refuge in A pinch of yeast for desserts Capri, where the islanders never left him in peace. In exchange for his "magic touch" for the cream and his dedicated support, they offered him 500 centilitres of milk wine and homemade desserts, as well as 150g sugar plots of land and archaeological finds that 90g flour he collected. In Anacapri, the lemons are 2 egg yolks legendary protagonists of desserts and are A cup of limoncello always plentiful. ln the ceramic rises of the 2 lemons outdoor stairs and on the tiled benches, 250 centiliters of fresh liquid juxtaposed with the white footpaths that cream wind around the church of Santa Sofia, the craggy citrus is abundantly immortalized. SERVES 4

Whip the egg whites with half of the sugar. Whip the yolks and the remaining sugar on the side. Add the sieved flour to the yolks, mixing with a wooden spoon. Combine the two mixtures, mixing everything very carefully. Then put the mixture in a pastry sack with a smooth point and form disks. Bake at 180° for about fifteen minutes. In the meantime, prepare the pastry cream, combining the sugar, i deciliter of milk and the two yolks. Bring the remaining milk to boil and add it to the cold mixture. Cook over a low heat, adding the sieved flour a little at a time and continuously mixing until the cream has thickened. Then prepare the filling, using half of the cream and combining the juice and peel of a grated lemon. Stuff the desserts with the filling after cutting them in half To obtain the cream for topping the treats, blend the remaining cream with the liquid cream, adding the limoncello and the lemon rind. Carefully mix the ingredients until you get a fairly liquid mixture, which you will pour on the treats just a few minutes before the time of serving. Decorate the plate with a few slices of lemon and top each treat with a little grated lemon rind.