words by Glenn Routledge quick early flight from Heathrow and wonder that it still retains the charm of the changing at Milano Linate for Jackie Onassis era. Napoli, finds you walking out into The air is fresh, bright sunshine, the the hot Neapolitan sunshine. Taking a fast lapping of the blue sea and birds singing in taxi ride across Naples couldn't be easier as the trees, for a moment you may think you the taxi driver zipped in and out of the early afternoon traffic, a glimpse out of the "This is Capri, where your first window reveals the soaring Mount impressions will last forever" Vesuvious. Getting to Capri meant taking a ferry from the port and then being whisked have walked into someones private movie. across the hay of Naples in a matter of 45 But this is Capri, where your first minutes. impressions will last forever. Driving Everyone arrives at Marina Grande, upwards on the steep roads to Anacapri you Capri's famous bustling port. There is an air can't help but stare back at Marina Grande of chaos as the gold braided smartly dressed and admire the natural beauty of the island, porters and hotel representatives unload looking over to Sorrento in the far distance. baggage into awaiting cars on the quayside. The striped cotton canopy roof of the This crack operation is repeated daily, a sort mercedes flapping in the breeze as the of chaos that probably has continued since driver skilfully manoeuvres the car uphill, the early 30's. shunting back and forth to let other drivers Open top white mercedes are ready to narrowly squeeze by. transport guests to their hotels on the Capri is still as stylish as it ever was, island, along the small windy tree lined and the big designer names are all there for roads which soar up to Anacapri at the top the visiting. A short walk from Piazza of the island. There's a distinct feel of 'La Umberto will bring you to joyful shops, Dolce Vita' in the air here and it's no boutiques, bakeries and ice cream parlours. The ritual early evening 'passegiata' is a circular swimming pool and set in a daily pilgrimage to the grotto to almost like the run up to fashion week, mediterranean green roof garden. experience the vivid blue cavern although even the passing tourist can Luxurious without doubt! interior. Orderly chaos seems to be look chic in a pair of torn earthy jeans Keanu Reeves, is a regular visitor to taking place as you join the long queue nowadays. Sandals are a big hit here in Capri visiting the Capri Palace SPA winding down the rock face, then Capri and I'm told that people travel (Salus per Aquam) when he stays in you'll be whisked into a row boat to over from Naples to buy them. Antonio Anacapri with his sister, who has a the floating cash desk to pay your eight Viva has been handmaking his own home here. Not surprising prices on euros (£6) entrance fee. personal style of sandal in Anacapri the island can be moderately high and Motor boats full of people are can be compared to those of Venice bobbing up and down in the water all and Rome. But this does not stop the waiting to be transferred into rowboats multitudes of day tippers who hop on for their chance to see the grotto. The and off the boats and hydrofoils at boatman shouting and gesticulating to Marina Grande, some of whom never each other carnival fashion. "Ciao seem to stray beyond the port area. Franco ...via via!!" The funicolare railway connects The entrance to the grotto is a Marina Grande with the centre of narrow opening in the limestone rock, Capri and the tiny flagged Piazza Umberto which is more or less the "There are more than 700 species tourist centre of Capri. A round trip to of plants here on Capri" and from the port will cost you less than 3 euros. You'll be surprised by the and the technique is to lie down on the many seated people in Piazza rowboat floor as the boatman performs Umberto, eating, drinking and ice a dipping action to pop the boat under cream licking in the hot sunshine. and into the dark grotto. Turn around Waiters whisking thinks to tables on and take a look at the grotto entrance shiny silver trays and countless and you will be stunned by the multilingual conversations taking wonderful turquoise blue light place, interrupted now and again by radiating inwards- the ringing of mobile phones which Villa Jovis, seems to add to the daily hubbub of which is the the caprese 'sweet life'. islands largest for over 40 years and his shop is The island has much to offer in the imperial villa, crammed sky high with sandals of all way of scenery, short walks and tours built for Tiberius types and colours. by bus or taxi. Many excursions are at the beginning One of the top hotels on the Island only 15 to 20 minutes out of Marina of the first is the 5 star luxurious Capri Palace Grande and the centre of Capri itself. century AD can Hotel & Spa, visited by the likes of One trip to make is to see where be reached by Donatella Versace, Harrison Ford, and Dame Gracie Fields beloved home was walking from the Mariah Carey. The Hotel is set high in on the island, because for most centre of Capri Anacapri, overlooking the most towards Via exclusive part of the island and has a "No trip to Capri would be Tiberio, then great panoramic view of the complete without visiting the following this surrounding sea. This is also the only famous Blue Grotto" narrow winding hotel with 'private pools' adjoining street for about 45 some of the 9 suites on offer here, in northerners from the UK, Capri is minutes past leafy addition to the 82 stylish bedrooms. A synonymous with 'Our Gracie' the gardens and tree special feature is the 'Megaron Suite' famous wartime singer. Her home is lined paths. Eventually you will reach which is the only one of its kind on now 'Canzone del Mare' (Song of the the entrance to the villa, and its ruined the island, a 150 metre penthouse with Sea) at Marina Piccola, where you can walls. Wild flowers are as much in rent a lounger and abundance here as the rest of the idle the day away island and there are more than 700 in the hot caprese species of plants here. The botanical sunshine, to the writer Compton MacKenzie mentions sound of waves this in his studies made here. crashing against Even though Mount Tiberio is the rocks below. almost 1,028 feet above the sea. The There's a small baking hot sunshine makes this an collection of ideal place for a viewpoint and affords artifacts and magnificent views of the island and memorabilia the Gulfs of Naples and Salerno. dedicated to Emperor Tiberius governed Rome from Gracie, including here for ten years until his eventual photos and record death in AD 37. sleeves. Villa San Michele located in No trip to Capri Anacapri and built by Swedish doctor would be complete Axel Munthe is well worth a visit. His without visiting famous 1929 book 'The Story of San the famous 'Grotta Michele' was an instant success and Azzura'. Crowds of bestseller. "I want my house open to tourists make their the sun and wind and the voice of the sea, like a Greek temple, and light, Across the Piazza you will light, light everywhere," he wrote. find 'Trattoria - Pizzeria Mamma The villa remains as it was many Giovanna', Via Boffe 3/5, which years ago with ancient columns, seemed as if the whole family statues and marble floors which lea d were involved in the running of this downstairs trattoria. A wide "Not to be missed is the chairlift to variety of food was on offer, the top of Monte Solaro" including fresh fish, beef and chicken. Steak Pizzaiola was my out onto the open air terraces main course, tangy bite fresh festooned with bright flowers, tomato, basil and garlic sauce. wonderful plants and numerous To die for! Home made sweets statues of the gods. and desserts were being ordered Not to be missed is the chairlift left right and centre, no sooner ride up to the top of Monte Solaro arriving at the tables than being which is the islands highest point at devoured by the eager customers. 2,000ft. For a mere five euros (£4) My favourite was definitely round trip you are transported in your 'Ristorante da Paolino' Via own private open seat for a 15 minute Palazzo a Mare, 11. On route to journey to the summit. Travelling the restaurant my taxi driver upwards you can look down below remarked, "You have made a good into the many gardens and terraces of choice to eat". 'Da Paolino' is vines, and there is an amazing situated not far from Marina breathtaking view out across to the sea, Grande and set beneath pergola's you can even see the boats at the Blue of large fragrant lemons. Grotto. The chairlift was a hit with The largo open air restaurant everyone and I own up to taking four was busy to bursting on this rides, all in one afternoon! warm Thursday evening and the tiramisu, torta della nonna, zuppa You'll find many things to do on atmosphere was so lively and happy.