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ENGLISH VERSION ebook pdf Caprionline Amalf Coast

BUCKET LIST EXPERIENCES From the creators of Capri.com and .com INDEX

100 BUCKET LIST EXPERIENCES . . . . . 3 The Tower of Ziro 74 3 The Island of Capri 3 Restaurants on the Amalf Coast 76 The Amalf Coast 5 Shopping on the Amalf Coast 78 8 Wineries on the Amalf Coast 80 Getting Around 10 Positano 82 Where to Stay 12 Around Positano 84 How Many Nights 13 85 Where to Book a Hotel 14 Fjord 86 The Best Time of Year to Visit 17 (the Emerald ) 87 89 THE ISLAND OF CAPRI ...... 18 Amalf 92 18 Where to Stay 19 95 Getting to Capri 21 Minori, , and Tramonti 96 Getting Around Capri 22 Cetara, Erchie, and 98 One-Day Itinerary on Capri 25 Sant’Agata and Nerano 100 Three-Day Itinerary on Capri 26 Rentals and Tours by Sea 103 The 28 Beaches on the Amalf Coast 104 Boat Tours Around the Island 33 Beaches in Positano 106 Renting or Chartering a Boat 34 Beaches in Nerano and Atrani 107 Beaches on Capri 38 Beaches in Amalf and Cetara 108 The Pizzolungo Trail 41 Beaches in Maiori and Minori 109 The Charterhouse of San Giacomo 42 Beaches in Vietri sul Mare 109 The Gardens of - 43 The Punta Cannone Belvedere 43 SORRENTO ...... 110 44 Where to Stay 111 110 Astarita Park and 45 Getting to Sorrento 112 Visiting 46 Getting Around Sorrento 115 ’s 48 A Day in Sorrento 116 Mount Solaro and Cetrella 50 Restaurants in Sorrento 118 The Migliara Scenic Overlook 53 Shopping in Sorrento 120 The Trail of the Forts 55 Beaches on the Sorrentine Peninsula 122 La Piazzetta 56 The Bay of Ieranto 124 Aperitivo Spots 57 Mount Faito 126 Restaurants on Capri 58 Punta Campanella 128 Shopping 61 DAY TRIPS FROM SORRENTO . . . . . 130 THE COAST ...... 62 Day Trip to Capri from Sorrento 131 130 62 Getting to the Amalf Coast 65 The Ruins of and 132 Getting Around the Amalf Coast 66 135 One Day on the Amalf Coast 67 Day Trip to the Amalf Coast from Sorrento 136 Three Days on The Amalf Coast 68 A Day trip to 138 Walking and Hiking 69 The 142 The Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei) 70 143 The Valley of the Mills (Valle delle Ferriere) 72 Day Trips to and 144

Caprionline and the authors are committed to providing accurate and up-to-date information. Prices, hours, and other information contained here are accurate when this guide goes to print, but may subsequently change. Many services vary rates and hours seasonally. Caprionline is not responsible for any injury - physical, mental, or fnancial - that may result from using this guide. The 100 Bucket List Experiences on Capri, the Amalf Coast, and Sorrento This isn't a ranking, so choose whatever experience delights and inspires! The Island of Capri

100 EXPERIENCES

Visit the Blue Grotto Catch the Chairlift up Take a boat tour around the Island of Capri Pag. 28 Mount Solaro Pag. 33 Pag. 50

Stroll to Punta Tragara Savor the silence at the Visit the Cetrella Hermi- Look out from the terrace Pag. 41 Migliara tage at Parco Astarita Pag. 53 Pag. 50 Pag. 45

Photograph the from the Gardens of Walk the Pizzolungo trail Augustus Pag. 41 Pag. 43 100 EXPERIENCES

Follow the Trail of the Climb (or descend) the Take the dramatic bus Watch the sunset from the Forts 900 steps along the Scala ride between Capri and Punta Carena Lighthouse Pag. 55 Fenicia staircase between Anacapri Pag. 57 Marina Grande and Pag. 46 Anacapri

3 Admire works by Share the view with the Sphinx at Villa San Michele Wander the historic lanes Diefenbach at the Pag. 48 in the center of Anacapri Charterhouse Pag. 42 Pag. 46

Be intoxicated by the opium den in Villa Lysis Explore Villa Jovis Relax at a beach club Pag. 45 Pag. 44 Pag. 38

Swim with a view of the Dine under the lemon grove Rub shoulders with cele- Lunch on a Caprese Faraglioni at Ristorante Da Paolino brities sandwich from Da Aldo Pag. 38 Pag. 58 Pag. 58 Pag. 58

Swimming under the Try the famous Torta Sample Ravioli Capresi Swim at al Faro and order Bagni di Tiberio ruins Caprese and Pollo al Mattone at La Caponata made by Pag. 38 Gelsomina Pag. 53 Antonio Pag. 38 100 EXPERIENCES

Luxury shopping on Via Camerelle Visit Liquid Art System's Have a pair of Capri Pag. 61 collection of contempo- sandals custom made rary art Pag. 61

4 Indulge in a gelato from Sip an aperitivo cocktail in Have a drink on the ter- Go dancing in a taverna Buonocore in Capri or the Piazzetta race at Hotel Quisisana Capri Crema Caffè in Pag. 57 Pag. 57 Anacapri

The Amalf Coast EXPERIENCES

Stop to take in the colored houses tumbling down the Climb up and down the Visit the village of cliffside in Positano from the Spiaggia Grande Beach staircases of Positano Nocelle Pag. 106 Pag. 82 Pag. 84

Follow the Lovers' Walk from Spiaggia Grande to the Drink in the sunset from Praiano Fornillo coves in Positano Pag. 85 Pag. 106 100 EXPERIENCES

Discover the Amalf Co- Lose yourself in the cove- Hike the Valle delle Ferriere, with its historic paper ast's only fjord in Furore red walkways behind the mills Pag. 86 Duomo in Amalf Pag. 72 Pag. 92

5 Drive the 53 kilometers of curves along the SS 163 Stop at a roadside stand Float through the Emerald Pag. 63 for a granita al limone Grotto Pag. 87

Hike the Sentiero degli Dei (The Path of the Gods) Skirt the coastline by boat Pag. 70 Pag. 103

Take a water taxi to one of the tiny coves accessible Take the 300 steps down Swim in the waters off the only by sea to the Arienzo beach Li Galli Islets Pag. 104 Pag. 106 Pag. 103

Climb the 62 steps up the Visit the Paper Museum Look out from the Terrace of Infnity at Villa Cimbrone Duomo di Amalf in Amalf (Ravello) Pag. 92 Pag. 92 Pag. 90 100 EXPERIENCES

Listen to a classical music concert on the terrace of Visit the Villa Marittima Explore the temples of (Ravello) Romana in Minori Paestum Pag. 90 Pag. 96 Pag. 143

6 Spend a day at Da Adolfo Taste spaghetti alla Nerano in a waterfront restaurant Indulge in a sfogliatella on Laurito (Positano) Pag. 107 Santa Rosa Pag. 106 Pag. 79

Have lunch in one of the restaurants in Montepertuso Take a cooking class with Indulge your sweet tooth (Positano) overlooking the Faraglioni off Capri Mamma Agata with a pastry from Sal de Riso Pag. 76 Pag. 97

Dine on the water's edge beneath the stars Taste colatura di alici in Cheat on your diet with a Pag. 76 Cetara delizia al limone Pag. 98

Have dinner in a Norman Visit the Marisa Cuomo Have dinner at Da Gemma Purchase some Posita- tower in Maiori winery in Furore in the center of Amalf no-style fashion Pag. 77 Pag. 80 Pag. 77 Pag. 78 100 EXPERIENCES

Choose ceramics in Vietri Dance the night away sul Mare in a sea grotto (Africana Pag. 78 Famous Club - Praiano)

7 Sorrento EXPERIENCES

Admire the view from Look down into the Vallo- Take a trip as far as Punta Campanella the Villa Comunale ne dei Mulini Pag. 128 Pag. 116 Pag. 116

Visit the beautiful Bay Walk through the streets Visit the Amalf Coast by bus or ferry of Ieranto of the historic center Pag. 136 Pag. 124 Pag. 116

Take a day trip to the Island of Capri Hike up Mount Vesuvius Visit the ruins of Pompeii Pag. 131 Pag. 135 and Herculaneum Pag. 132 100 EXPERIENCES

Reach the peak of Mount Take a boat trip along the coast Visit the Correale Faito Museum in Sorrento Pag. 126

8 Tour the Cloister of Saint Go down into the crypt in Admire the frescoed Sunbathe on the pier in Francis (San Francesco) the Basilica di Sant’Anto- vaults of the Sedile Pag. 117 nino Pag. 117 Dominova Pag. 117 Pag. 122

Relax for the day at a bea- Swim into the secret pool of Regina Giovanna Aperitivo at sunset on ch club in Pag. 122 the terrace at Marinella in Pag. 122 Sant’Agnello

Sample gnocchi alla Sit down for an authentic Have a Michelin-starred dinner in Sant’Agata Sorrentina pizza Pag. 119 Pag. 118 Pag. 118

Eat spaghetti alle vongole Stock up on limoncello and souvenirs in the shops in Discover the traditional in a fshing village the historic center Sorrento inlaid wood Pag. 118 Pag. 120 Pag. 120 100 EXPERIENCES

Have an espresso and Mix with the tourists in Take an evening walk Stay out until the wee people-watch in Piazza an English pub along Corso Italia hours in a night club Tasso

9 GETTING AROUND The main routes connecting the Amalf Coast, Sorrentine Peninsula, and Capri

CAR (OR NOT?) Roads THE DIFFERENT AREAS: Having a car can be useful on the Roads along the coast are narrow Sorrentine Peninsula: from Amalf Coast to get around on your and curvy, so if you are not used to Massa Lubren- own schedule and easily reach to this type of driving, it may be se, served by the Napoli-Sorren- towns that are not well-served by stressful! to rail line and highway SS145. public transportation. But keep in Amalf Coast: from Nerano to mind: MOTORCYCLES Vietri sul Mare, along highway AND SCOOTERS SS163, which also has a bus Parking Scooters and motorcycles are the route. In the summer months, Space is limited on the coast, so most pleasant way to get around there is ferry service between parking is costly and hard to fnd. In the coast, combining independence the towns. Positano and Amalf, parking can with a certain freedom from pro- cost around €4 an hour. blems due to traffc and parking. Capri: there are ferries that run In Sorrento, it's easier to fnd par- You can rent a scooter in most

INTRO from Naples and Sorrento all king and it costs much less (about towns along the coast, but we year round, and from April to €2 an hour). only recommend scooter rentals October from Salerno, Amalf, to those who have experience Positano and Ischia Traffc driving on two wheels. During the high-season summer months, traffc on the single coastal PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION road is often backed up for hours. The towns along the coast are ser- We suggest carefully planning any ved by the Sita public buses. Buses driving you want to do to avoid run rather frequently, though they delays. 10 HIGHWAY SS163 The iconic highway SS163, also known as “l’Amalftana”, runs between the towns on the Amalf Coast and is one of the most beautiful roads in the world, with more than 50 kilometers of sharp curves right along the coast, broken up by the pretty towns into the cliffside. are often behind schedule due to Please note: during the summer and many weekends, traffc can be heavy traffc. Please note: during blocked for hours on this road due to the number of cars and buses the busiest times of day in summer, headed to the Coast. buses are very crowded and there is often standing room only. the crowds. There is no escalator at beginning of November to Easter. FERRIES the Napoli Centrale train station to Regardless, it's easy to get around Taking a ferry is the easiest way reach the Circumvesuviana line on the island without a car. to travel between the towns along the lower level, so it can be diffcult the coast. Most routes for both with heavy bags. It takes about an TICKETS high speed and regular ferries run hour to get from Naples to Sorren- There is no pass you can purchase from the beginning of April through

to by train. for all the different types of public INTRO October transportation, as each company GETTING TO CAPRI has its own ticket, which must be purchased before boarding. Tickets CIRCUMVESUVIANA TRAIN Ferries to Capri depart all year can be purchased at the station, NAPLES - SORRENTO round from Naples and Sorrento; and in many bars, tabacco shops, The Circumvesuviana runs betwe- in the summer, there are ferries and newsstands. en Naples and Sorrento, stopping from Salerno, Amalf, and Positano at a number of towns in between. For most of the year, cars and See also: There are no restrooms on the motorcycles are not allowed on Getting to Capri (p. 21) train, no luggage storage, and often Capri. Non residents can bring Getting to the Amalf Coast (p. 65) you have to travel standing due to vehicles on the island from the Getting to Sorrento (p. 112)

11 WHERE TO STAY Choosing where to book a hotel or other accommodation to use as your base is one of the most important decisions for your holiday.

CAPRI than Positano or Amalf, consider Praiano, If you want to really get to know Capri, you Furore, Minori, and the other smaller villages should plan to spend at least two nights on the located between Positano and Vietri sul Mare island. The island is at its most beautiful in the evening, when the crush of daytrippers has left SORRENTO and the last ferry for the island has departed. This is the most popular base for those visiting This magical place is too beautiful not to be the area, as it is well-connected to Capri, Posi- admired in the quiet of the evening. tano, Amalf, and Pompeii, in addition to having great views and a festive atmosphere. Sorrento POSITANO has a wide variety of hotels, apartments, and Along with Capri, this town is one of the most B&Bs for all budgets. exclusive on the coast. Here you can enjoy the quintessential Amalf Coast atmosphere, with gorgeous views, a picturesque village center, CAUTION: STAIRS and pretty beaches. A warning, however: Posita- Before booking an accommodation on Capri or the Amalf Coast, be sure to check its location not only in no is very steep and full of fights of stairs that reference to the beach or center of town, but also are not recommended for those travelling with in reference to its altitude. young children and those with limited mobility. Some accommodation looks well-located on paper, but they can only be reached by climbing long and steep fights of stairs INTRO If you’d like to stay on the Amalf Coast but are looking for a less expensive and crowded option Where to book a hotel (p. 14)

Capri.com Positano.com Choose and book your hotel on Capri Choose and book your hotel on the Amalf Coast www.capri.com www.positano.com

12 HOW MANY NIGHTS Some ideas to plan your holiday based on how long you’ll be staying.

A LONG WEEKEND OR SHORT BREAK with the ample selection of hotels and B&Bs If you only have a few days to spend on the for every style and budget. coast, try to avoid burning through a checklist. Sorrento is always a great choice, with its Much of the charm of the Amalf Coast is its numerous restaurants and cafés in the center slow pace and dedication to relaxing. For short where you can spend a pleasant evening. visits, we always recommend choosing Capri or Positano as a base, which are the two most beautiful and iconic spots. Also, try to spend at AN ITINERARY FOR A WEEK-LONG STAY least half a day at sea to admire the coastline from the water. • 1 day in Sorrento (p. 116) From the beginning of November to the end of • 1 day in Capri (p. 25) March, Sorrento is the best choice since Capri • 1 day in Positano (p. 82) and Amalf (p. 92) and Positano close for the season and most ho- • 1 day relaxing on the beach in Nerano (p. 100) tels and restaurants are shuttered until spring. • 1 day at Pompeii (p. 132) and Vesuvius (p. 135) • 1 day shopping and relaxing in Sorrento (p. 111) See also: Three Days on Capri (p. 26) Three Days on the Amalf Coast (p. 68)

THE RUINS OF POMPEII (PAG. 132) A WEEK If you are planning on visiting the archaeological If you have a week to spend on holiday, you’ll park in Pompeii while vacationing on the coast, have more time to visit the towns and spend one of the most convenient options to make the most of your time is to book a transfer from some time relaxing. With seven nights to plan Naples or Rome and schedule a stop for a few and a fexible budget, you can divide your stay hours in Pompeii to visit the ruins before continu- between Capri and Positano. Three or four ing on to your hotel. days will give you enough time to really savor www.visitpompeiivesuvius.com the island of Capri, with another three nights in Positano to relax on the beach, take a boat tour, and visit Amalf and Ravello

If hotel prices on Capri and Positano are too expensive for your travel budget, you can opt for Sorrento and organize day trips to other destinations from there. This is one of the most INTRO popular options for visitors, combining the con- venience of Sorrento’s well-connected location

Sorrentoinsider.com Visit Pompeii Vesuvius Choose and book your hotel in Sorrento A guide to visiting Pompeii and Herculaneum www.sorrentoinsider.com www.visitpompeiivesuvius.com

13 WHERE TO BOOK A HOTEL No location is the perfect base for everyone, so here is a quick recap of the pros and cons to each.

CAPRI (pag. 16) To really get to know Capri, you should spend the night (it seems obvious, but most visitors take day trips from Sorrento) Perfect for those who love the glamorous VIP life High prices in July and August

ANACAPRI (pag. 44) Perfect to discover the beautiful countryside on Capri For lovers of long walks, quiet nights, and excellent food A bit complicated to organize day trips off the island

SORRENTO (pag. 108) Excellent base for area day trips A festive and friendly atmosphere Very touristy and crowded

POSITANO (pag. 80) The most iconic town on the Amalf Coast Perfect for honeymoons and romantic get-aways The steep streets and stairs make it diffcult to get around for children and those with limited mobility, very crowded in the day

INTRO AMALFI AND ATRANI (pag. 90-93) At the center of the Amalf Coast Rich in history and important architecture Crowded and heavy traffc in high season

14 PRAIANO AND CONCA DEI MARINI (pag. 83-85) Sun all day and lovely sunsets Easy access to the Path of the Gods trailhead No ferry service to other locations on the coast

SANT’AGATA AND NERANO (pag. 98) Large beaches with beach clubs and crystalline water Excellent restaurants Quite distant from the other towns on the Amalf Coast

RAVELLO (pag. 87) The best views on the coast An excellent schedule of summer concerts Far from the seaside

MINORI AND MAIORI (pag. 94) Accessible beaches with no stairs, so perfect for families traveling with children Less expensive than other spots along the Amalf Coast Less glamorous atmosphere INTRO

CETARA AND VIETRI SUL MARE (pag. 96) Wonderful restaurants Not many tourists Far from other locations along the coast

15 INTRO

16 THE BEST TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT If you can, choose to visit Capri between April and June, when spring is in full bloom!

In April and May, there are days that are warm in the restaurants and sights. Usually, the autu- enough to take a dip in the sea before the hor- mn cold and rain begins at the end of October. des of summer tourists arrive and temperatures soar September and the beginning of October WINTER are also excellent times to come, because the If you are a hopeless romantic and love the water is still warm enough to swim in. seaside in winter with dramatically high waves that almost wet the balconies along the coast, SPRING and towns that seem to have emptied overni- Spring is by far the best season on Capri, when ght, you may enjoy Capri in the winter months. the island awakens from its winter hibernation, Remember that most bars and restaurants will bars and restaurants reopen, and the streets be closed for business (especially in January and and squares are sweet with the scent of orange February), and you can have days of rain. blossoms in the evening. If you would like to holiday in the area in winter, The tourist season on Capri begins at Easter the best choice is to stay in Sorrento, where and fnishes at the end of October businesses stay open and there are concerts In May and June, prices are generally less and events scheduled, especially during the expensive than in July and August Christmas season. May is by far the best month to visit, with warm days and colorful countryside.

WHEN IS IT WARM ENOUGH TO SWIM? JULY AND AUGUST You can usually swim in the sea from mid-May to July and August are the most crowded months the beginning of October, though there are some on the island, as most Italians take their holiday hearty enough to swim all year round. during this period and the international jet set In October and November, the temperature of arrives with their luxury yachts to take over the the water is often still warm enough to swim as it retains the summer heat. most glamorous restaurants and nightclubs on Even in winter, you can relax on the beach on sunny the water's edge. These are also the months in days surrounded by island locals who know how to which there are the most concerts and events take advantage of these rare, beautiful winter days. scheduled. Because of the oppressive summer heat, visits to Pompeii and Naples are not particularly ple- asant in the summer, and even a day on Capri is not recommended, unless by boat.

You can, however, fnd a bit of peace and quiet INTRO by hiring a boat to explore the more hidden beaches and coves along the coast of Capri and the Amalf Coast

SEPTEMBER AND OCTOBER The fall months are also ideal for enjoying mild yet warm days with thinner crowds of tourists

17 The island of Location: , Area: 10.5 km² Inhabitants: 14,200

CAPRI Altitude: 142 m Capri Area: 3,97 km² Inhabitants: 7,400 about Ten square kilometers of land and two towns: Density 1,814 inhab/km² Capri and Anacapri. ANACAPRI Altitude: 275 m CAPRI TOWN AND ENVIRONS Area: 6,47 km² Includes Marina Grande (where the port is located) and the center Inhabitants: 6,700 about of town around the Piazzetta. To the east is the Tiberio neigh- Density 1,035 inhab/km² borhood, and to the south Marina Piccola

ANACAPRI TOWN AND ENVIRONS Located at a higher elevation than Capri town on the slopes of Mount Solaro. To get to Anacapri from Capri, it takes 10 minutes by bus. The historic center includes the Boffe quarter and Via Giuseppe Orlandi, and the surrounding areas include Migliara, the lighthouse, and the Blue Grotto

18 WHERE TO STAY

CAPRI The hotels located around the Piazzetta are per- fect for those who love a bit of nightlife and plan on getting back to their hotel rooms in the early morning hours. If you would like a location close to the center but a bit quieter, book a hotel near Via Tragara and Via Occhio Marino. When you check the distance between your hotel and the Piazzetta on the map, be sure to check elevations: the Tiberio neighborhood seems close by, but Via CAPRI Sopramonte and Via Croce are all uphill!

ANACAPRI This is perfect location for those who love peace and quiet and want to discover the more authentic side of the island. If you would like to explore the entire island, book a hotel near a bus stop on the Capri - Anacapri line. In the evening, it's a pleasure to wander the lanes in the center of Anacapri, lined with small restau- rants, cafés, gelato shops, and wine bars... all in a small town, with yesteryear atmosphere. ANACAPRI If you book in one of the B&Bs in the area near the Blue Grotto or the Faro (lighthouse), consi- der renting a scooter to be able to move around the island freely. Many of the hotels in Anacapri offer a convenient shuttle service between the port and the hotel. There are no sandy beaches in Anacapri, but only beach clubs on the rocky cliffs.

MARINA GRANDE This area is quite busy during the day with the arrival and departures of ferries, but in the evening is a quiet hamlet. It's the perfect place MARINA GRANDE to stay for those who are only on the island for a short time, one or two nights, as you are close to the ferry docks. It's also a good place to stay for families, as the nearby beaches are CAPRI kid-friendly. With the funicular, you can reach the Piazzetta in just 5 minutes.

MARINA PICCOLA On this stretch of coast, you'll fnd the island's most beautiful beaches and a view of the Fara- glioni, but there isn't much to do and night. We recommend checking if your hotel has a shuttle MARINA PICCOLA service to the center of Capri 19 Private transfer (4h./600€ ca. x 2 pers.) Roma/Rome Roma Ciampino (CIA)

Shuttle Bus Taxi (40 min./6€ ca.) (35 min./35€ ca.)

Private transfer (4h./600€ ca. x 2 pers.) Roma Fiumicino (FCO)

Treno/Train “Leonardo Shuttle Bus Taxi Express” (32 min./14€) (55 min. 6€) (45 min./50€ ca.)

Private transfer (4h./600€ ca. x 2 pers.) Roma Stazione Termini - Rome Termini train station

Treno AV/ High speed Train (70 min./50€ ca.)

Private transfer (2h./105€ ca. x 1 pers.) Napoli/Naples Napoli Capodichino (NAP)

Bus (AliBus) Taxi (25 min./5€) (20 min./21€ ca.)

Napoli Stazione Centrale - Naples Central train station

Taxi Metro Linea 1 Taxi (10 min./13€ ca.) “Municipio” (10min. 1,10€) (10 min./13€ ca.)

Navetta gratuita Free Shuttle (5 min.) + 60 min.

Molo Beverello Calata Porta di Massa Aliscafi / High speed ferry Navi / Ferry Aliscafi / High speed ferry

Mergellina Aliscafi / High speed ferry Nave veloce/Ferry (60 min./21€ ca.) (50 min./23€ ca.) Nave/Slow Ferry (80 min./15€ ca.)

Sorrento Sorrento

Aliscafo/High speed ferry (20 min./20€ ca.) Nave veloce/Ferry (30 min./17€)

Positano Capri Amalfi Coast Grotta Azzurra Amalfi Damecuta Marina Grande CAPRI Bus Taxi 20 min./2€ 10 min. Funicolare/Cablecar 17€ ca. (5 min./2€) Taxi 15 min./23€ ca. Anacapri Capri Legenda/Legend Mezzi pubblici / Public transport

Taxi

Transfer privati / Private transfer

Faro 20 Pleae note: many transportation rates and schedules change seasonally GETTING TO CAPRI Ferries run daily from Naples and Sorrento all year WHY BOOK A PRIVATE round, and also from Positano, Amalf, Salerno, and TRANSFER TO CAPRI Ischia in the summer. Cars and motorcycles are Private transfers are particularly recommended when traveling banned for most of the year except for residents; with a group or if you want to non-residents can bring vehicles on the island from avoid the hassle of the busy Naples and Capri ports. November to Easter. Consider booking a transfer if ar- riving in Rome, as you will have to take at least 4 different Ferry schedules and prices FROM SORRENTO means of public transport to change often, so check online Ferries to Capri also depart reach Capri. a few days before traveling. from the Marina Piccola port If you are arriving late in the When seas are choppy, high in Sorrento. The trip lasts a evening, your only option is speed ferries stop running; bit less than 30 minutes and to book a private speedboat transfer as ferries do not run when they are rough, all ferry during the summer there are late at night. routes are cancelled (general- frequent routes. ly only in the winter months). There are a number of buses DIFFERENT TYPES OF from the center of Sorrento to TRANSFERS the port, or you can easily walk FROM NAPLES Car + ferry + hostess There are two ports in Naples down the fight of stairs from A driver will pick you up from where ferries depart for Capri: Piazza Tasso to the port your arrival train station or Molo Beverello and Calata airport and take you to the port di Massa. Molo Beverello is FROM POSITANO AND in Naples. You will be provided ferry tickets for the frst avai- opposite the Maschio Angioino AMALFI lable ferry and the driver will castle in Piazza Municipio; Ca- From April through October, help you embark. At the port on lata di Massa is to the east (or ferries to Capri also depart Capri, a hostess will accompany to the left, if facing the sea). from the Amalf Coast. High you to your hotel and take care of your bags. High speed ferries depart speed ferries depart from from Molo Beverello; regular Positano, Amalf, and Salerno; Car + speedboat + hostess during June, July, and August, and slow ferries depart from In this case, the sea crossing Calata di Massa. ferries also depart from between Naples (or other port) Maiori and Capri is by private speedbo- From the Naples Capodichino Schedules are published at the at, which is the fastest and most fexible way to cross. airport, take the Alibus shutt- beginning of the tourist season le that runs from the airport (around the end of March), but Helicopter to the city center, stopping at usually there are two or three You can also arrive on Capri by Molo Beverello and Calata di routes each morning from the helicopter. The heliport is in Da-

Massa. Amalf Coast to Capri, and mecuta outside Anacapri. From CAPRI return ferries in the afternoon. here, you can reach a number of From the Napoli Centrale In June, July, and August, there hotels by taxi. Station (Piazza Garibaldi train are also ferries that depart station), take the metro under- from Capri each morning, with ground Linea 1 to the Piazza return routes in the afternoon. Municipio stop opposite Molo Info and rates for transfers Beverello www.capri.com/transfer

21 GETTING AROUND CAPRI Not sure how to get from one location on the island to another? There are a number of options: bus, funicular, and... walking! Wear comfortable shoes, since you can only get around the center of Capri town on foot, and walking is often the fastest option.

FUNICULAR (CABLE-CAR) Tips Anacapri - Capri: 30 minutes This is the fastest way to get to If you are coming from Capri town Keep a lookout for the stairs that the center of Capri town from the and need to connect to the Blue cut through the curves. Marina Grande port. The funicular Grotto or lighthouse, don't get off is a cable train that climbs the when the driver announces “Anaca- Capri - Marina Piccola: 15 minutes hillside through lemon groves and pri” (Piazza Vittoria), but wait for It's not worth it to take the bus! stops right in the Piazzetta. the following stop. Simply take the Via Mulo stairs down that begin from Due Golf. Funicular Marina Grande - Capri If you are taking the bus from Departures: every 15 minutes Anacapri to Capri town and there TAXI (more often on crowded days). are long lines to board in Piazza Island taxis are open-top, 6-seaters, Duration: 5 minutes. Vittoria, walk back along Viale De so they are a fun way to experien- Ticket: €2 Tommaso to the preceding stop. ce the island. Bring a glamorous Here you will almost certainly be scarf and sun glasses to feel like a You can carry one piece of hand able to board, instead of having to Hollywood star! luggage; for larger bags, you need wait for the next bus due to the Fares are calculated with a meter, to purchase a supplementary ticket. crowds! but there are fxed fares for the Pets are allowed. The ticket offce most common routes. For a taxi in Marina Grande is not at the WALKING ride around the island, you can entrance to the funicular, but at the If you are happy to walk, you can negotiate an all-inclusive fare arrival pier to the right (facing the often skip the bus or funicular all based on the itinerary, season, island) near the ferry ticket offce. together. On summer days when and duration of the ride. The funicular closes from January to the lines to board the bus are March, and is replaced by a shuttle particularly long, it's often worth it Estimated fares (1-4 passengers): bus. to simply walk from to place. • Marina Grande - Capri 17€ • Marina Grande - Anacapri 25€ BUS Marina Grande - Capri: 20 minutes • Marina Grande - Grotta Azz. 40€ Don't picture large urban public Take the road that climbs the hil- • Marina Grande - Faro 38€ buses: buses on Capri are mini-bu- lside next to the “banchinella”, the • Capri - Anacapri 18€ ses with seating for about 10 pier where the boats and ferries • Capri - Marina Piccola 15€ passengers, and small enough to moor. The road is steep and has a • Capri - Grotta Azzurra 35€ navigate the narrow lanes on the number of steps, so it's not a good • Capri - Faro 30€ island. Public buses are always very idea with luggage. crowded in the summer, and there is often a long line to board, but Capri - Marina Grande: 15 minutes SCOOTER RENTAL buses run frequently. The wait in The road begins in the Piazzetta You can rent scooters to explore the morning in Marina Grande to behind the clock tower; follow the the island in Marina Grande, Capri Anacapri is often very long! signs for the port. town, and Anacapri. The duration of the rental can be a few hours, an Departures: Usually buses depart Anacapri - Marina Grande: 20 entire day, or a number of days. You every 15-20 minutes, though they minutes can negotiate a rate based on the run more frequently in high season. Take the scenic Scala Fenicia stair- duration. CAPRI Tickets: €2 case from the gardens of Villa Axel The bus terminal in Capri is in Piaz- Munthe. There are almost 1,000 za Martiri d’Ungheria (along Via steep stairs, so you need to have Roma, near the Piazzetta). good knees. The bus terminal in Anacapri is in Piazza della Pace (also known as Capri - Anacapri: 1 hour “Piazzale Cimitero”). Please note: it's an uphill climb!

22 10 minute walk

a single lap bar, it's easy to slip will also take care of providing a underneath. We recommend car- lunch of the catch of the day, local rying infants in a baby carrier and mozzarella, and heirloom tomatoes to not take toddlers who are less from the island. able to sit still. Older children and A less expensive alternative to a adolescents can ride alone. private boat is to join a group or There are staff members at the shared tour departure point and arrival point It takes about two hours to tour the who help passengers get on and off island by boat, including a stop at the chairlift. the Blue Grotto which is entered CHAIRLIFT Mount Solaro Chairlift (p. 50) by rowboat. There may be a wait to The chairlift runs between Piazza enter the Blue Grotto, depending Vittoria in the center of Anacapri BOATS upon the season and the crowds to the top of Mount Solaro, 589 You can visit Capri by sea by that day, as only so many visitors meters above sea level. Once at renting or chartering any number can enter at one time. the top, you can take in views of boats, from a traditional island Boat tour of the island (p. 33) over Capri town, the Faraglioni, lancia or gozzo boat, to a rubber and Mount to Punta dinghy or speedboat with a sun If you are arriving on Capri with Campanella and the Sorrentine awning and ice chest, with or your own boat, you can moor at the Peninsula in the distance. It takes without a skipper. marina in Marina Grande. 12 minutes to reach the top, and While on board, you can stop for For those who drop anchor in open the chairlift is single seats only. lunch at one of the many restau- water, it's a good idea to remain at CAPRI Children can be carried on an adult's rants along the water's edge, or least 300 meters from the coast. lap, but as these are chairlifts purchase picnic supplies before suspended above ground with just setting sail. Some boat companies

Day trip and boat tours Laser Capri Motoscafsti Capri Plan, book, and discover your Capri Blue Grotto and island tours Blue Grotto and island tours www.capri.com/tours )081 837 5208 )081 837 5646 www.lasercapri.com www.motoscafsticapri.com 23 THE BLUE GROTTO THE MOUNT SOLARO CHAIRLIFT MOUNT SOLARO

ANACAPRI - LA CASA ROSSA VILLA SAN MICHELE - AXEL MUNTHE

BOAT TOUR OF THE ISLAND VIA CAMERELLE CAPRI

LA PIAZZETTA 24 ONE-DAY ITINERARY ON CAPRI Here is a suggested itinerary for those taking a day trip from Sorrento or a shore excursion to Capri.

9:00 AM and continue on to Villa San Michele (p. 48), the Try to arrive on the island frst thing in the former home and now museum of the Swedish morning. As soon as you disembark in Marina doctor and writer Axel Munthe. Here you can Grande on Capri, you’ll see the ticket offces for view the archaeological artefacts the physician the boat companies on the pier. Here you can collected during his world travels and admire purchase a ticket for a boat tour of the island the view from the terrace. with a stop at the Blue Grotto (p. 28) This is a Entrance to Villa San Michele: €8 great way to have an overview of the entire island of Capri! Choose a full tour of the island 4:00 PM that also passes by the Faraglioni, or a shorter Take the bus back to Capri and stop for an transfer to the Blue Grotto... we recommend the espresso or drink in the Piazzetta full tour! After your break, visit the Gardens of Augu- Boat tour of the island: €18 stus and snap a picture of the Faraglioni in the Entrance to the Blue Grotto: €14 distance, and then stroll down Via Camerelle to admire the island’s most fashionable boutiques along what may be the highest concentration ( After visiting the grotto, you can ask your rowbo- at skipper if he would drop you at the bottom of the of luxury stores in the world. At the end of the stairs at the Grotto entrance rather than returning to road, make a quick left up the hill and then right the port, so you can catch the bus to Anacapri from to continue along Via Tragara to the beautiful here. That way you won't have to wait in the long line scenic overlook facing the Faraglioni to board the bus in Marina Grande for Anacapri. Go back the way you came along Via Tragara, but instead of taking Via Camerelle, walk up 11:30 AM the road to the right (Via Padre Reginaldo Giu- Once you’ve returned to Marina Grande, take a liani) and continue along Via Fuorlovaldo and taxi or bus to Anacapri (20-25 min.), and catch Via Le Botteghe until you fnd yourself back in the chairlift up to the top of Mount Solaro (p. the Piazzetta. 50). From the top, you can enjoy spectacular Take the funicular (cable-car) back down to views over the Bays of Naples and Salerno the port (5 minutes) or walk (15 minutes) along perhaps the best panorama on the island! narrow lanes and fights of stairs. After enjoying the view, you an either take the Entrance to the Gardens of Augustus: €1 Seggiovia down or walk down, stopping at the Cetrella hermitage. It takes about an hour to walk down. CAUTION: HIGH TEMPS Chairlift tickets: €11 round trip; €8 one way During the months of July and August when the CAPRI temperatures are at their highest and the island is 2:30 PM very crowded, this itinerary may be a challenge. As You can either stop for lunch at one of the there may be long lines for the bus, we suggest choosing what you would like to see ahead of restaurants in Anacapri or have a quick snack time rather than trying to ft it all in on one day! On hot summer days, the best time to visit the Piaz- zetta is early morning or late afternoon, spending Day trip and boat tours the hottest hours of the day on board a boat or at Plan, book, and discover your Capri the beach. www.capri.com/tours

25 THREE-DAY ITINERARY ON CAPRI Escape to Capri for three days of romance, relaxation, or a beach break with friends... No matter what your plans, Capri is always a good idea!

DAY ONE island clubs. The most popular is Anema e Core, Once you’ve settled in at your hotel, start explo- but all the nightclubs are clustered around the ring the island from its most famous landmark: Piazzetta and Via Camerelle the Piazzetta. This tiny square is the heart of both the town and island of Capri, and the stre- ets of the village center all begin here. DAY TWO Take Via Vittorio Emanuele down to the SIT BACK OR SET OUT? historic Quisisana Hotel and Via Camerelle, You have the whole day ahead of you... how lined with luxury boutiques. Walk the length would you like to spend it? You can relax on the of the lane and continue along picturesque Via beach or explore the town of Anacapri. Tragara that ends at a scenic overlook onto the Faraglioni. On your way back, take Via Padre OPTION 1: A DAY AT THE BEACH Reginaldo Giuliani, Via Fuorlovado, and Via le If all you want to do is relax on a sunlounger, Botteghe, home to small independent clothing cocktail in hand, then the only thing to decide is and design shops. which beach and which bathing suit. It’s a good At this point, it’s probably starting to get late idea to book a place at one of the beach clubs in the day and time for an aperitivo in the on the island a day or two in advance to be sure Piazzetta, elbow-to-elbow with locals and the to have a place waiting for you even if you stop international jet set. This is where everyone on for an espresso in the Piazzetta the island gathers to see and be seen… Most beach clubs on Capri have excellent For dinner, we suggest reserving a table in restaurants, as well advance, especially on the weekends or during Beaches on Capri (p. 38) the summer months. OPTION 2: EXPLORING ANACAPRI A FEW OF THE MOST FAMOUS RESTAURANTS If you would rather spend the day exploring a Da Paolino €€€ ) 081 837 6102 for a traditional different side of the island, head to Anacapri. island meal in a charming atmosphere. Aurora €€€ ) 081 837 0181 a fashionable spot First stop: Mount Solaro by chairlift. just steps from the Piazzetta. You will catch the chairlift from Piazza Vittoria Da Mammà €€€ ) 081 837 7472 for those who in Anacapri; the ride up to the top takes 12 love gourmet meals and Michelin stars. minutes, and you are rewarded with sweeping Da Giorgio €€/€€€ ) 081 837 0898 for a table views. From there, you can walk back down, with a view and authentic dishes. stopping at the Cetrella Hermitage. It takes Verginiello €/€€ ) 081 837 0944 if you’re on a about 25 minutes to walk back to the center of CAPRI tight budget. Anacapri from Cetrella. For a unique and informal spot for a light meal or snack: È Divino €/€€ ) 081 837 8364 or Pulalli Second stop: Villa San Michele Wine Bar €€ ) 081 837 4108 in the Piazzetta at Once you have come back down from Mount the top of the clock tower. Solaro (p. 50), go back to Piazza Vittoria and The evening continues into the wee hours at continue straight along Via Capodimonte

26 to visit Villa San Michele (p. 48), the residen- ce-cum-museum built by the Swedish physician and writer Axel Munthe

Third stop: The historic center of Anacapri Your walk continues along Via Giuseppe Or- landi, Anacapri’s main pedestrian thoroughfare. Stop to admire the majolica foors in the Church of San Michele, visit the Casa Rossa, and spend some time shopping in the artisan shops. Don’t miss the Boffe neighborhood, with its unique architecture, before returning to Piazza Diaz and Piazza Caprile The bus terminal with BOAT TOUR OF THE ISLAND routes to Capri and the Marina Grande port is nearby. DAY THREE CAPRI BY SEA Last stop: Relax at the lighthouse In the morning, take another walk through the We suggest spending an afternoon at the Punta center of Capri with stops at the Gardens of Carena lighthouse in Anacapri. Catch the bus Augustus and the Charterhouse of San Giacomo. that departs from Piazza Caprile or walk the 30 If you enjoy walking, you can stroll all the way minute trail down to the water’s edge. to Villa Jovis and Villa Lysis, or walk along the At the lighthouse, the Lido del Faro €€/€€€ Pizzolungo Trail (p. 41) ) 081 837 1798 beach club has a restaurant and two snack bars with sandwiches and drinks. You can’t leave Capri without having explored Next to it, there is a free beach. the coastline by boat. Hop on a boat tour from Stay here until sunset: the most beautiful one Marina Grande of the island can be seen from here. ( If you want to have a picnic on board, stop at Suggestions for dinner: for your second dinner, Salumeria Da Aldo (grocery) in Marina Grande for you can opt for one of the traditional restauran- the island’s best Caprese mozzarella and tomato sandwiches! ts on Anacapri. Two good options are: Da Gelsomina €€/€€€ ) 081 837 1499 at Migliara and Da Giorgio al Cucciolo €€/€€€ End your three days right with a dinner on the ) 081 837 2675. Both serve traditional dishes water’s edge in the former fshing village of Ma- with a lovely sea view and offer a shuttle servi- rina Grande, full of excellent fsh and seafood ce to and from the center of town. If you prefer restaurants. to stay in the center of Anacapri, try Trattoria Il Two suggestions: Lo Zodiaco €€/€€€ Solitario €€ ) 081 837 1382, also specializes in ) 081 837 6332 and Da Gemma €€/€€€ CAPRI traditional dishes, Le Arcate €€ ) 081 837 3588 ) 081 837 4014 and Aumm Aumm €/€€ ) 081 837 3926 (also ser- If you would rather dine in the center of ves pizza), or La Zagara €€/€€€ ) 081 837 2923, Capri, be sure to book well in advance for a updated classic cuisine under a fantastic lemon table with a sea view at Terrazza Brunella grove. €€/€€€ ) 081 837 0122 or Al Geranio €€/€€€ Restaurants in Capri and Anacapri (p. 58) ) 081 837 0616 for a romantic dinner for two!

27 THE BLUE GROTTO The most famous sight on Capri is also its most expensive and crowded! Here's all you need to know to plan your visit.

A ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME EXPERIENCE HIGH WINDS AND CHOPPY SEAS Visitors fock from across the globe to visit the Unfortunately, there is no way to know in advance if Blue Grotto, even for just a few minutes. Lines the grotto will be open on any specifc day. to enter can be long in high season. The Grotto can also open or close for different stretches of time in a single day. Blue Grotto facts: 25 meters wide and 40 me-

ters long in the internal cavern, the cave mouth You can check the updated status of the is less than a meter above sea level. grotto here: To enter, you must lie back along the bottom www.capri.com/grotta-azzurra of a small rowboat that can slip through the (updated from March to November) tiny entrance. Inside, you will be foating in the darkness above the glowing blue water.

TICKETS OPENING HOURS Tickets cost €14/person and must be paid in The cave is open from 9am to 5pm when sea cash at the cave entrance. There are no tours conditions are favorable (the cave closes in that include entrance tickets to the Grotto, CAPRI high winds and choppy seas). which must always be paid for separately. The grotto is rarely open from November to Wait times: wait times run from 10 minutes to March; on mild days it may open a few days in an hour, depending upon how long the line is. the morning. Duration: visits inside the cave last for about 5 minutes.

28 ENTERING THE GROTTO the cave was "rediscovered" by the Prussian To access the inside of the grotto, you must writer and painter Ernst Fries, enter a rowboat for four passengers. The skip- who were taken to the cave by Angelo Ferraro, per will ask you to lie back on the bottom of the a local fsherman, and notary Giuseppe Pagano boat while he pulls you through using a length of chain attached to the wall of the cliff. Visits inside the Grotto last about fve minutes. With a GETTING TO THE GROTTO small tip, you can stay in a bit longer. BY GROUP BOAT TOUR THE HISTORY OF THE BLUE GROTTO Ticket offces for Motoscafsti and Laser Capri, This sea cave was known during the time of the two boat companies that offer group tours , when it was one of Emperor Ti- and transfers to the Blue Grotto, are located at berius' favorite nymphaea. For many centuries, Marina Grande the Blue Grotto (also known in the past as the If you purchase the “Island tour + Blue Grotto” Grotta di Gradola) was abandoned, feared by ticket, the tour will frst go around the island CAPRI the local sailors because of legends of spirits and then stop at the Grotto entrance. Here and demons which inhabited the cave. This passengers have to transfer from a large boat changed dramatically on April 18, 1826 when to small rowboat to enter the cave. »

Motoscafsti Capri Laser Capri Guide to Boat Rentals Blue Grotto and island tour Blue Grotto and island tour Choose a boat and reserve in advan- )081 837 5646 )081 837 5208 ce for an unforgettable day at sea! www.motoscafsticapri.com www.lasercapri.com www.capri.com/boats 29 BY PRIVATE BOAT afternoon, but the sea tends to get choppy If you are visiting Capri with your own boat and after around 3pm, and the cave sometimes want to see the Blue Grotto, moor at one of the closes. buoys in open water and signal to the rowboats to come and pick you up. WAITING FOR GROTTO ENTRANCE IN You can also reserve a private gozzo boat with SUMMER skipper at Marina Grande Lines to enter the grotto can stretch into the These boats can carry up to 7 passengers hours in the summer months, especially during (though there are larger models, as well) and the midday hours. Generally, priority is given to the cost of a two-hour tour begins at €150. those visiting by private boat with skipper.

ON FOOT SWIMMING IN THE GROTTO From the center of Anacapri, walk down Via It is illegal to swim into the grotto, though Pagliaro and then Via Grotta Azzurra (3.5 km) swimmers do enter after 5pm when the boats At about the halfway point, you can take a side leave. Enter at your own risk! trip to the Roman ruins of Villa Damecuta, one of the 12 villas built by Emperor Tiberius on the island. GETTING TO THE ENTRANCE TO THE BLUE On top of the ruins, a watchtower was built in GROTTO the Middle Ages overlooking the sea, expanded By boat: 10 minutes from Marina Grande or as a in the 14th century into a small fortress. stop on an island tour. By bus: Board at Piazza della Pace in Anacapri, 50 BY BUS meters from Piazza Vittoria. Departures about every There is a bus that runs from Piazza della Pace 20 minutes (the trip takes 15 minutes). directly to the Blue Grotto. On foot: From Piazza Vittoria, take Viale T. de Once you get off the bus, take the stairs down Tommaso, Via Pagliaro, and Via Grotta Azzurra with to the cave entrance where there is a line to an optional stop at the Villa Damecuta ruins (3.5 km, enter the cave. 40 minutes)

( Next to the stairs, the La Tortuga snack bar (open only in summer) sells drinks, souvenirs, and excellent sandwiches and local dishes.

THE MOST COLORFUL TIME OF DAY TO VISIT The colors in the Blue Grotto are at their most intense between noon and 2pm. That said, there is not much difference from the rest of the morning, but we do recommend visiting the cave on a sunny day as the grotto is much less colorful when it's cloudy. There is generally less of a line to enter in the CAPRI

Il Riccio Restaurant €€€ Gradola Beach €/€€ La Tortuga Snack Bar €/€€ Gourmet fsh and seafood Restaurant, snack bar, and sun deck Snacks and light meals on a terrace restaurant near the Blue Grotto near the Blue Grotto overlooking the Blue Grotto ) 081 837 1380 ) 081 837 1433 ) 081 837 1705 30