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AMALFI COAST ROAD TRIPS
Cristian Bonetto, Brendan Sainsbury HOW TO USE THIS BOOK Symbols In This Book Reviews KTop Tips Food & In the Destinations section: Drink All reviews are ordered in our authors’ Link preference, starting with their most Your Trips Outdoors preferred option. Additionally: Tips from Sights are arranged in the geographic Essential Locals Photo order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Trip Walking Detour Tour Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, History & within these ranges, by author preference. Culture 5 Eating Family 4 Sleeping
Map Legend
o tes Trips 1 Sights 4 Sleeping Trip oute Trip um ers Trip Detour r 5 Linked Trip Trip Stop Beaches Eating Walk oute Toll ay Walking tour 2 Activities 6 Drinking Free ay Primary Trip Detour C Courses 3 Entertainment Secondary Tertiary op lation T Tours 7 Shopping Lane Capital ational nsealed oad Capital z Festivals Information Pla a all State Pro ince & Events 8 & Transport Steps City Large To n Tunnel To n illage Pedestrian O erpass Areas Walk Track Path each These symbols and abbreviations give Cemetery vital information for each listing: o ndaries Christian nternational Cemetery Other State Pro ince Park % Telephone # Pet-friendly Cliff Forest number g Bus eser ation h Opening hours ydrography r an rea f Ferry p i er Creek Sportsground Parking j Tram ntermittent i er n Nonsmoking S amp angro e d Train Transport a Canal irport Air-conditioning apt apartments Water Ca le Car i Internet access d double rooms Dry Salt Funicular W ntermittent Lake etro station Wi-fi access dm dorm beds s lacier Parking Swimming pool q quad rooms Train ail ay v Vegetarian selec- r rooms ighway ar ers Tram tion utostrada s single rooms State High ay E English-language egional High ay menu ste suites Pro incial High ay Note: Not all symbols c Family-friendly tr triple rooms Other oad displayed above appear on the maps in this book tw twin rooms CONTENTS
West of Sorrento...... 78 PLAN YOUR TRIP Massa Lubrense...... 79 Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi...... 80 Marina del Cantone...... 81 Welcome to the Amalfi Coast...... 5 East of Sorrento...... 82 Amalfi Coast Map...... 6 Vico Equense...... 82 Amalfi Coast Highlights...... 8 Capri...... 83 Naples City Guide...... 10 Amalfi Coast...... 85 Need to Know...... 12 Positano...... 85 Praiano...... 91 ROAD TRIPS Marina di Furore...... 92 Amalfi...... 92 Ravello...... 97 Amalfi 1 Coast 7 Days...... 17 Minori...... 101 Shadow Cetara...... 102 2 of Vesuvius 2–3 Days...... 27 Vietri sul Mare...... 103 Southern Salerno & the Cilento...... 104 3 Larder 3–4 Days...... 37 Salerno...... 104 Cilento 4 Coastal Trail 4–5 Days...... 45 Paestum...... 107 Agropoli ...... 109 Cilento Coast...... 110 DESTINATIONS Palinuro...... 112
Naples & Pompeii...... 54 Naples...... 54 ROAD TRIP South of Naples...... 64 ESSENTIALS Herculaneum (Ercolano)...... 64 Mt Vesuvius...... 66 Italy Driving Guide...... 115 Pompeii...... 67 Italy Travel Guide...... 120 Sorrento & Around...... 72 Language...... 129 Sorrento...... 72 3 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS THIS BOOK Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson This 2nd edition of Amalfi Coast Road Trips was BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map researched and written by Cristian Bonetto and of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Brendan Sainsbury. The previous edition was Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. written by Cristian, Duncan Garwood, Paula Hardy, Illustration pp68–9 by Javier Zarracina Robert Landon and Helena Smith. This guidebook Cover photographs: Front: Atrani, Anna Biancoloto/ was produced by the following: Shutterstock ©; Back: Ravello, Aygul Sarvarova/ Destination Editor Anna Tyler Shutterstock © Senior Product Editor Elizabeth Jones Regional Senior Cartographer Anthony Phelan Product Editor Katie Connolly Book Designer Gwen Cotter Assisting Editors Gabrielle Stefanos, Fionnuala Twomey, Simon Williamson Cover Researcher Meri Blazevski Thanks to Will Allen, Imogen Bannister, Sasha Baskett, Alexandra Bruzzese, Gemma Graham, Martin Heng, Jenna Myers, Kirsten Rawlings, Joe Revill, Sophia Seymour, Jo-Ann Titmarsh, Brana Vladisavljevic
OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
131 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
INDEX
art 96 car insurance 115 A art galleries, see museums & car travel, see driving accessible travel 121-2 galleries Castelcivita 47 Acciaroli 48‑9, 110‑11 ATMs 125‑6 Castellabate 48, 110 accommodation 13, 122‑3 Atrani 23 Castellammare di activities, see individual Auditorium Oscar Stabia 34 activities Niemeyer 99 castles Agerola 40 Castel Nuovo 58 Agropoli 47, 109 B Castello di Arechi 105 air travel 120 Baia di Ieranto 78, 81 Il Castello 109 Amalfi 9, 21‑3, 40‑1, 92‑7, 93 bathrooms 127 Catacombe di San Amalfi Coast 17‑25, 85‑103, Biblioteca Nazionale di Gennaro 59 17, 18‑19 Napoli 58 cathedrals, see churches & archaeological sites & ruins Blue Ribbon drive 21 cathedrals Complesso Monumentale boat travel 120‑1 Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea 21‑3, 92‑3 di San Lorenzo Bomerano 40, 94 Maggiore 55 caves border crossings 116, 120 Herculaneum 29‑30, 64-5 Grotta Azzurra Boscoreale 33, 66 Napoli Sotterranea 55 (Capri) 50, 83 budget 13, 58 Oplontis 32, 66 Grotta Azzurra business hours 126 Paestum 42, 108 (Palinuro) 113 Parco Archeologico di Elea Grotta del Biscotto 94 Velia 50 C Grotta dello Smeraldo Pompeii 9, 33‑4, 67-71, cable cars 83 40, 94 68-9, 70 Camo 24 Grotte di Castelcivita 47 Stabiae 34, 66 Campania Artecard 58 cell phones 13, 127 Terme Suburbane 65 Campi Flegrei 30 cemetries 59 Villa Jovis 83 Capo Palinuro 50 centro storico Villa Romana Capodichino 64 (Sorrento) 73 Antiquarium 102 Cappella delle Crociate 105 Ceramica Artistica Solimene 24 architecture 60 Cappella Sansevero 11, area codes 127 54‑5 Certosa e Museo di San Martino 11, 57-8 Capri 40, 83‑4 Cetara 24, 41, 102‑3 car hire 12, 115‑16 000 Map pages Chiostro del Paradiso 23
132 churches & cathedrals discount cards 34, 58 Grotta Azzurra (Palinuro) 113 Basilica di Santa Chiara 54 diving 81, 109, 110 Grotta dello Smeraldo 40, 94 Cappella Sansevero 11, driving 115‑19, 120 Grotte di Castelcivita 47 54‑5 car hire 12, 115‑16 Gusta Minori 102 Cathedral (Ravello) 98 documents 115, 116 Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea driving licence 115 H 21‑3, 92‑3 emergency numbers 12, health 124‑5 Chiesa & Chiostro di San 127 Herculaneum 29‑30, 64‑5 Francesco 72‑3 fuel 12, 119 hiking INDEX Chiesa di Santa Maria insurance 115 Assunta 85‑6 Capri 84
language 130 C-M Chiesa di Santa Maria della Ravello 24 maps 116, 117 Grazia 79 Santa Maria del Castello parking 118 Chiesa di Santa Teresa a Circuit 87 road distances 119 Chiaia 60 Sentiero degli Dei 20, 94‑5 road rules 116, 117‑18 Chiesa di Sant’Agata 80 Sorrento Peninsula 78 safety 116‑17, 119 Chiesa San Matteo Spiaggia di Fornillo 91 Apostolo 40 websites 117 holidays 126 Chiostro del Paradiso 94 Duomo (Naples) 55 Duomo (Naples) 55 Duomo (Salerno) 41-2, 104‑5 I Duomo (Salerno) 41‑2, insurance 115 104‑5 E internet access 13, 125 Duomo (Sorrento) 73 electricity 123‑4 Italian language 129‑30 Pio Monte della emergencies 12, 127 Misericordia 55‑6 Ercolano 64‑5 Cilento, the 45‑51, 110‑12 L Cimitero delle Fontanelle 59 F language 129‑30 climate 12 LGBT+ travellers 125 Complesso Monumentale di ferries 120-1 San Lorenzo Maggiore 55 festivals 59, 61 M Complesso Monumentale di food 13, 81, 110, 124 Maggio dei Monumenti 59 Santa Chiara 54 football 63 maps 116, 117 Conca dei Marini 40 fuel 12, 119 Marina del Cantone 20, 81‑2 Convento del Deserto 20, 80 Furore 21, 92 Marina della Lobra 79 convents 20 Marina di Equa 82 costs 13, 58 G Marina di Furore 21, 92 accommodation 122 galleries, see museums & Marina Grande 73 food 124 galleries Massa Lubrense 79‑80 credit cards 125‑6 gardens, see parks & Massaquano 82 currency 12, 125 gardens measures 121 gas 12, 119 medical services 124-5 gay travellers 125 D Mediterranean diet 110 gelati 76 dangers 116‑17, 119, 127 Minori 24, 101‑2 Grotta Azzurra (Capri) disabilities, travellers with mobile phones 13, 127 121-2 50, 83
133 Moiano 82 Museo Virtuale della Palazzo Murat 87 monasteries Scuola Medica Palazzo Reale 58 Certosa e Museo di San Salernitana 105 Reggia di Portici 29 Martino 11, 57‑8 Paestum museum 47, 108 Palinuro 50, 112‑13 Complesso Monumentale music 119 Parco Archeologico di Elea di Santa Chiara 54 Velia 50 Convento del Deserto N Parco Nazionale del 20, 80 Cilento e Vallo di Naples 10‑11, 28‑9, 54‑64, 56 Villa della Quercia 21 Diano 47
INDEX accommodation 11, 61 money 13, 125‑6 Parco Nazionale del discount cards 58 Vesuvio 66
Monte Panormo 47 M-P drinking 63 motorcycle travel, see parking 118 entertainment 63 driving parks & gardens festivals & events 59‑61 Mt Vesuvius 31‑2, 66 Giardini di Augusto 84 food 11, 62‑3 museums & galleries Villa Cimbrone 98 itineraries 55, 60, 60 Basilica del Crocefisso 94 Villa Rufolo 23-4, 97-8 medical services 64 Camo Museum 24 passports 128 nightlife 63 Certosa e Museo di San petrol 12, 119 sights 11, 54‑9 Martino 11, 57‑8 Pimonte 39 tourist information 11, 64 Gallery Celentano 73 Pioppi 49‑50, 110, 111 travel to/from 64 Herculanense Pisciotta 50, 111 travel within 11, 64 Museum 29 planning 12-13 walking tours 60, 60 MADRE 57 Pompeii 9, 33‑4, 67-71, MAV 65 Naples International Airport 68-9, 70 (Capodichino) 64 Museo Archeologico accommodation 71 Napoli Teatro Festival Nazionale 11, 29, 54 food 71 Italia 61 Museo Archeologico sights 67‑71 Provinciale 105 Nastro Azzurro drive 21 tours 71 Museo Bottega della Tarsia national parks travel to/from 71 Lignea 73 Parco Nazionale del Portici 29 Museo Correale di Cilento e Vallo di Poseidonia 107 Terranova 72 Diano 47 Positano 9, 20, 85-90, Museo del Corallo Parco Nazionale del 86 Camo 100 Vesuvio 66 accommodation 88 Museo del Palazzo Nocelle 21, 95 activities 85‑7 Reale 58 drinking 90 Museo della Carta 94 O food 88‑9 nightlife 90 Museo della Ceramica opening hours 126 24, 103 sights 85‑7 Oplontis 32, 66 Museo dell’Osservatorio tourist information 90 Vesuviano 30-1 travel to/from 90 Museo di Capodimonte P Postiglione 47 11, 58‑9 Paestum 42, 46‑7, 107‑9 Praiano 20‑1, 91‑2 palaces public holidays 126 Palazzo Mannajuolo 60 000 Map pages
134 Sorrento 19, 34, 38‑9, tourist information 128 R 72‑8, 74 train travel 121 radio 119 accommodation 75-6 transport 13, 120‑1 Ravello 23‑4, 97‑101, 98 activities 73 trekking, see hiking Ravello Festival 99 drinking 77 TV 121 Reggia di Portici 29 festivals & events 73 road rules 116, 117‑18 food 76‑7 V nightlife 77 vacations 126 shopping 78 S Velia 50 INDEX sights 72‑3 safety 116‑17, 119, 127 Vesuvius 31‑2, 66
tourist information 78 R-W Sagra del Tonno 102‑3 Vico Equense 19, 39, 82 travel to/from 78 Salerno 41-2, 104‑7, 106 Vietri sul Mare 24, 103 travel within 78 San Giovanni a Piro 50 Villa Cimbrone 98 Spiaggia della Gavitelli 91 San Marco di Castellabate Villa della Quercia 21 Spiaggia di Fornillo 91 110‑11 Villa Jovis 83 Spiaggia Grande 87 Sandulli, Paolo 96 Villa Romana SS163 21 Santa Maria del Castello Antiquarium 102 82, 87 Stabiae 34, 66 Villa Rufolo 23-4, 97-8 Santa Maria di Castellabate visas 12, 128 47‑8, 110 T Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi taxes 122 W 19‑20, 80-1 Teatro San Carlo 11, 63 Walk of the Gods 20, 94‑5 Sapri 50 telephone services 13, 127 walking, see hiking Scala 24 temples walking tours 60, 60 Seggiovia del Monte Paestum 42, 108 Solaro 83 weather 12 Tempio di Cerere 47, 108 Sentiero degli Dei 20, websites 13 Tempio di Nettuno 47, 108 94‑5 accessible travel 121 time 121 Settimana Santa 73 driving 117 tipping 13, 125 Sicignano degli LGBT+ travellers 125 Alburni 47 toilets 127 tourist information 128 Slow Food movement 88 Torello 24 weights 121 smoking 121 Torre a Mare 96 wi‑fi 13, 125 soccer 63 torta ricotta e pera 105 wine 29, 126
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OUR WRITERS
CRISTIAN BONETTO BRENDAN SAINSBURY Despite being the son of Born and raised in the UK in northern Italians, Cristian a town that never merits a has an enduring weakness for mention in any guidebook Naples and Campania. It took (Andover, Hampshire), Brendan one visit as a young backpacker spent the holidays of his youth to get him hooked, and the Australian-born writer has caravanning in the English Lake District and didn’t been covering the region’s food, culture and lifestyle leave Blighty until he was 19. Making up for lost time, for more than a decade. According to Cristian, no he’s since squeezed 70 countries into a sometimes Italian city quite matches Naples’ complexity and precarious existence as a writer and professional intrigue, and its ability to constantly surprise and vagabond. In the last 12 years, he has written more contradict makes it a thrill to write about. The writer’s than 40 books for Lonely Planet from Castro’s Cuba musings have appeared in publications across the to the canyons of Peru. globe, and his Naples-based play Il Cortile (The Courtyard) has toured numerous Italian cities. Cristian has contributed to more than 30 Lonely Planet guides, including Venice & the Veneto, New York City, Denmark and Singapore. You can follow Cristian’s adventures on Twitter (@CristianBonetto) and on Instagram (@rexcat75).
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