©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd AMALFI COAST ROAD TRIPS Cristian Bonetto, Brendan Sainsbury HOW TO USE THIS BOOK Symbols In This Book Reviews KTop Tips Food & In the Destinations section: Drink All reviews are ordered in our authors’ Link preference, starting with their most Your Trips Outdoors preferred option. Additionally: Tips from Sights are arranged in the geographic Essential Locals Photo order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Trip Walking Detour Tour Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, History & within these ranges, by author preference. Culture 5 Eating Family 4 Sleeping Map Legend otes Trips 1 Sights 4 Sleeping Trip oute Trip umers Trip Detour r 5 Linked Trip Trip Stop Beaches Eating Walk oute Tollay Walking tour 2 Activities 6 Drinking Freeay Primary Trip Detour C Courses 3 Entertainment Secondary Tertiary oplation T Tours 7 Shopping Lane Capital ational nsealed oad Capital z Festivals Information Plaaall StateProince & Events 8 & Transport Steps CityLarge Ton Tunnel Tonillage Pedestrian Oerpass Areas Walk TrackPath each These symbols and abbreviations give Cemetery vital information for each listing: ondaries Christian nternational Cemetery Other StateProince Park % Telephone # Pet-friendly Cliff Forest number g Bus eseration h Opening hours ydrography ran rea f Ferry p ierCreek Sportsground Parking j Tram ntermittent ier n Nonsmoking d Sampangroe Transport Train a Canal irport Air-conditioning apt apartments Water Cale Car i Internet access DrySalt Funicular d double rooms W ntermittent Lake etro station Wi-fi access dm dorm beds s lacier Parking Swimming pool q quad rooms Trainailay v Vegetarian selec- r rooms ighway arers Tram tion utostrada s single rooms State Highay E English-language egional Highay menu ste suites Proincial Highay Note: Not all symbols c Family-friendly tr triple rooms Other oad displayed above appear on the maps in this book tw twin rooms CONTENTS West of Sorrento ............................78 PLAN YOUR TRIP Massa Lubrense .............................79 Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi ............. 80 Marina del Cantone .......................81 Welcome to the Amalfi Coast ......... 5 East of Sorrento ............................ 82 Amalfi Coast Map ............................ 6 Vico Equense ................................. 82 Amalfi Coast Highlights .................. 8 Capri ............................................... 83 Naples City Guide ...........................10 Amalfi Coast ................................... 85 Need to Know ..................................12 Positano ......................................... 85 Praiano ............................................91 ROAD TRIPS Marina di Furore ........................... 92 Amalfi ............................................. 92 Ravello .............................................97 Amalfi 1 Coast 7 Days ...........17 Minori ............................................101 Shadow Cetara ............................................102 2 of Vesuvius 2–3 Days ...... 27 Vietri sul Mare ..............................103 Southern Salerno & the Cilento ...................104 3 Larder 3–4 Days ...... 37 Salerno ..........................................104 Cilento 4 Coastal Trail 4–5 Days ...... 45 Paestum ........................................107 Agropoli ........................................109 Cilento Coast ................................110 DESTINATIONS Palinuro .........................................112 Naples & Pompeii .......................... 54 Naples ............................................ 54 ROAD TRIP South of Naples ............................ 64 ESSENTIALS Herculaneum (Ercolano) .............. 64 Mt Vesuvius ................................... 66 Italy Driving Guide ........................115 Pompeii ...........................................67 Italy Travel Guide .........................120 Sorrento & Around .........................72 Language ...................................... 129 Sorrento ...........................................72 3 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments help make our books better. We read every word, and we guarantee that BEHIND your feedback goes straight to the authors. Visit lonelyplanet. com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions. THE Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, SCENES websites and digital products, so let us know if you don't want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS THIS BOOK Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson This 2nd edition of Amalfi Coast Road Trips was BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map researched and written by Cristian Bonetto and of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Brendan Sainsbury. The previous edition was Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633 –44. written by Cristian, Duncan Garwood, Paula Hardy, Illustration pp68–9 by Javier Zarracina Robert Landon and Helena Smith. This guidebook Cover photographs: Front: Atrani, Anna Biancoloto/ was produced by the following: Shutterstock ©; Back: Ravello, Aygul Sarvarova/ Destination Editor Anna Tyler Shutterstock © Senior Product Editor Elizabeth Jones Regional Senior Cartographer Anthony Phelan Product Editor Katie Connolly Book Designer Gwen Cotter Assisting Editors Gabrielle Stefanos, Fionnuala Twomey, Simon Williamson Cover Researcher Meri Blazevski Thanks to Will Allen, Imogen Bannister, Sasha Baskett, Alexandra Bruzzese, Gemma Graham, Martin Heng, Jenna Myers, Kirsten Rawlings, Joe Revill, Sophia Seymour, Jo-Ann Titmarsh, Brana Vladisavljevic OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. 131 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd INDEX art 96 car insurance 115 A art galleries, see museums & car travel, see driving accessible travel 121-2 galleries Castelcivita 47 Acciaroli 48-9, 110-11 ATMs 125-6 Castellabate 48, 110 accommodation 13, 122-3 Atrani 23 Castellammare di activities, see individual Auditorium Oscar Stabia 34 activities Niemeyer 99 castles Agerola 40 Castel Nuovo 58 Agropoli 47, 109 B Castello di Arechi 105 air travel 120 Baia di Ieranto 78, 81 Il Castello 109 Amalfi 9, 21-3, 40-1, 92-7, 93 bathrooms 127 Catacombe di San Amalfi Coast 17-25, 85-103, Biblioteca Nazionale di Gennaro 59 17, 18‑19 Napoli 58 cathedrals, see churches & archaeological sites & ruins Blue Ribbon drive 21 cathedrals Complesso Monumentale boat travel 120-1 Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea 21-3, 92-3 di San Lorenzo Bomerano 40, 94 Maggiore 55 caves border crossings 116, 120 Herculaneum 29-30, 64-5 Grotta Azzurra Boscoreale 33, 66 Napoli Sotterranea 55 (Capri) 50, 83 budget 13, 58 Oplontis 32, 66 Grotta Azzurra business hours 126 Paestum 42, 108 (Palinuro) 113 Parco Archeologico di Elea Grotta del Biscotto 94 Velia 50 C Grotta dello Smeraldo Pompeii 9, 33-4, 67-71, cable cars 83 40, 94 68‑9, 70 Camo 24 Grotte di Castelcivita 47 Stabiae 34, 66 Campania Artecard 58 cell phones 13, 127 Terme Suburbane 65 Campi Flegrei 30 cemetries 59 Villa Jovis 83 Capo Palinuro 50 centro storico Villa Romana Capodichino 64 (Sorrento) 73 Antiquarium 102 Cappella delle Crociate 105 Ceramica Artistica Solimene 24 architecture 60 Cappella Sansevero 11, area codes 127 54-5 Certosa e Museo di San Martino 11, 57-8 Capri 40, 83-4 Cetara 24, 41, 102-3 car hire 12, 115-16 000 Map pages Chiostro del Paradiso 23 132 churches & cathedrals discount cards 34, 58 Grotta Azzurra (Palinuro) 113 Basilica di Santa Chiara 54 diving 81, 109, 110 Grotta dello Smeraldo 40, 94 Cappella Sansevero 11, driving 115-19, 120 Grotte di Castelcivita 47 54-5 car hire 12, 115-16 Gusta Minori 102 Cathedral (Ravello) 98 documents 115, 116 Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea driving licence 115 H 21-3, 92-3 emergency numbers 12, health 124-5 Chiesa & Chiostro di San 127 Herculaneum 29-30, 64-5 Francesco 72-3 fuel 12, 119 hiking INDEX Chiesa di Santa Maria insurance 115 Assunta 85-6 Capri 84 language 130 C-M Chiesa di Santa Maria della Ravello 24 maps 116, 117 Grazia 79 Santa Maria del Castello parking 118 Chiesa di Santa Teresa a Circuit 87 road distances 119 Chiaia 60 Sentiero degli Dei 20, 94-5 road rules 116, 117-18 Chiesa di Sant’Agata 80 Sorrento Peninsula 78 safety 116-17, 119 Chiesa San Matteo Spiaggia di Fornillo 91 Apostolo 40 websites 117 holidays 126 Chiostro del Paradiso 94 Duomo (Naples) 55 Duomo (Naples) 55 Duomo (Salerno) 41-2, 104-5 I Duomo (Salerno) 41-2, insurance 115 104-5 E internet access 13, 125 Duomo (Sorrento) 73 electricity 123-4 Italian language 129-30 Pio Monte della emergencies 12, 127 Misericordia 55-6 Ercolano 64-5 Cilento, the 45-51, 110-12 L Cimitero delle Fontanelle 59 F language 129-30 climate 12 LGBT+ travellers 125 Complesso Monumentale di ferries 120-1 San Lorenzo