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S Gemütlichkeit 9 August 2013 “Like” Us at Facebook.Com/Gemut.Com Some of the Best Turkish Döner Kebabs (€9) w Dear GEMüTLICHKEIT Subscriber The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria & Switzerland Trip Notes Our goal always is to provide fresh information but for some rea- BREMEN son I haven’t found the opportunity he 1,200-year-old Free Han- pendence), which together have until now to comment on a trip we seatic City of Bremen, on the been designated a UNESCO World made nine months ago. T Weser River, is the second- Heritage Site. Near the entrance We explored some new terri- largest city in North Germany. To- to the Ratskeller restaurant and tory—Brandenburg, Celle, Kronach, gether with its port, Bremerhaven wine cellar below the town hall, Memmelsdorf—and returned to (60 kilometers, 37 miles to the north), is the famous bronze statue of the some old favs. it comprises its own city-state, like Bremen Town Musicians, from Germany’s two the Grimms’ fairy tale of the same For four nights in Kandersteg, by Sharon Hudgins other city-states, name—a donkey, dog, cat, and Switzerland, we rented Blumlisalp- Hamburg and Berlin. rooster standing one atop the other. blick, a second floor (our third) (Rub the donkey’s hooves to make apartment near the rail station. As Badly damaged in World War II, we were six (including two kids, Bremen has bounced back as a lively your wish come true.) The Tour- seven and nine) the three bed- modern center of science, education, ist Office offers guided tours year rooms and two bathrooms were and culture, with many attractions round, several times daily, of the a necessity. The apartment’s wide for tourists. The historic heart of Town Hall and the Ratskeller; high- balcony offered a truly spectacular, the city is the Market Square in the ly recommended as the best way to panoramic mountain view of more Altstadt (Old Town), with its mag- learn about the interesting history than 180-degrees. In the large living nificent 600-year-old Rathaus (Town of these landmarks. Another note- room and dining area adjacent to Hall) decorated in distinctive “Weser worthy sight near the main square the well-equipped and spacious-for- Renaissance” style, and the nearby is the 13th-century St. Peter’s Ca- Switzerland kitchen, we were able stone statue of Knight Roland (a thedral, with its rose window and to spread out comfortably. These medieval symbol of the city’s inde- impressive mosaics on the facade, accommodations can be booked via Continued on page 3… Untours the terrific, family-owned packager of apartments in several European countries. Google “Un- German Emigration Center tours Blumisalpblick.” tanding on Bremerhaven’s Haus, or German Emigration Our little group had first-class harbor wall, the breeze car- Center (GEC), in Bremerhaven is a Eurail passes, but on a daytrip to S ries the distinct smell of salt unique museum dedicated to the Zermatt the old pro traveler forgot water. Located at the mouth of the story of this mass movement. that the segment between Brig and Weser River where it flows into the Opened in 2005, the GEC is Eu- Zermatt is not covered by Eurail. North Sea, the city was one of the rope’s largest emigration museum. This was discovered just after set- major ports from which millions of In 2007 it was named “European tling into a comfy, almost empty, emigrants left Eu- by Sharon Hudgins Museum of the Year.” The original first-class car. How much to stay rope for a new life there for the hour and a quarter trip collection focused solely on the in the Americas and elsewhere. From movement of Europeans through each way? For the six of us, more 1830 to 1914, 33 million souls, mostly than $500. So we all trooped back to Bremerhaven over a 150-year span. Europeans, emigrated to the United Then in 2012, a new wing was second-class and forked over about States. Many others went to Canada, $300 for the round trip. added to tell the story of immigra- Mexico, South America, and Austra- tion into Germany; from French The problem in late November lia. Between 1830 and 1974, another Huguenots in 1685 to today’s Asian with Kandersteg is few restaurants seven million—from Germany, other asylum-seekers. To make the his- are open and the two we tried for Central European countries, Eastern Continued on page 11… dinner—Oberlanderstube of the Europe, and Russia—set off from Exchange rates as of 8/21/13 Hotel Alpenblick and Chalet Hotel Bremerhaven to find a better life. 1 euro = $1.33 Adler—should be avoided. The Deutsches Auswanderer Swiss franc = $1.08 Continued on page 2… 1 gal. diesel, Germany=$7.03 www.gemut.com August 2013 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com DEAR SUBSCRIBER ists props its elbows on wood tables worth a visit to stay and dine at the Continued from page 1 carved with the initials of long-dead Bräuerei Gasthof Drei Kronen. We students, soldiers, duelists, and lov- paid €87 for a decent double room **** ers. It’s a Heidelberg “must go.” and less than €40 for one of the best I am a fan of Marriott hotels, Despite a fine location, next to meals of a three-week trip: a rustic though in Europe they lack old-world the town’s great landmark bridge, dinner of salads, main dishes, huge tradition. But we are willing to over- and its very pleasant, hunting- desserts and three half-liters of the look that when we can use frequent lodge dining room décor, Zur Alten house-made beer. flyer miles or Marriott points. The Brücke’s food fails to get our recom- **** Heidelberg Marriott is on the mendation. Farther northeast of Bamberg is Neckar, but a 20-minute stroll to the Kronach. Guided by the built-in sat- center. More expensive, but more Near the Heidelberg Marriott, Restaurant Merlin offers a good ellite navigation in our VW Touran, luxurious is the Marriott Renais- we wound ever-upward over narrow sance in Lucerne. We recommend breakfast for a much lower cost than at the hotel. cobbled streets, past venerable stone both, especially if the price is right. buildings, to the four-star Hotel In Lucerne, stay far away from **** Pfarrhof where a comfortable, just- the Restaurant Helvetia on Wald- We gave Celle, a bit northeast refurbished double room awaited us stätterstrasse. Two beers, two salads, of Hannover, a quick look round. at a rate of €110 plus €4.5 per person and two main dishes cost $110 and Not far from the town center but for breakfast. constituted our worst meal ever in in a pleasant residential neighbor- hood, we found the modern Hotel The room was actually half a Switzerland. Leaving our food half- block up the street over the hotel’s eaten, we couldn’t leave fast enough. Caroline Mathilde for €150 double, including breakfast in a bright, restaurant/brewery, Antlabräu, a **** glass-walled room with a giant sky- bright, modern space of gleaming Two old reliables in Heidelberg light. Dinner in the hotel’s intimate copper fixtures and blonde wood. didn’t let us down. For about half Kanape restaurant was so-so but at Continued on page 12… the price of the Helvetia, the Hack- €49 for two, inexpensive. Using Gemütlichkeit teufel delivered hearty, carefully prepared dishes in a delightfully The best part of our short Celle • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Dis- visit, was a cold, windy, late morn- counts are often available for longer stays. kitschy room with polished wooden • All hotel prices include breakfast unless beams and crown molding, the ing walk through the Wednesday otherwise noted. farmer’s market that fills an old- • Local European telephone area codes obligatory ceramic stove, and old carry the “0” required for in-country dialing. musical instruments. town whose pedestrian-only streets To phone establishments from outside the are lined with hundreds of restored country, such as from the USA, do not dial For a dessert of warm raspberry half-timbered buildings. The the first “0”. sauce over ice cream, we stopped by Rathaus is a stunner. Back Issues Website the ancient, atmospheric Zum Ro- **** Many back issues are available free to subscribers ten Ochsen, a student hangout for at www.gemut.com. To access the issues, enter the about 175 years. Some nights there The village of Memmelsdorf, just password published in this space each month. Go to is a hot piano player and every night north of Bamberg, can be seen on http://www.gemut.com/csub.html a new generation of locals and tour- foot in about 10 minutes. If you find Password: brmn yourself in these parts, however, it’s Vol. 27, No. 7 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY August GEMüTLICHKEIT 2013 The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria & Switzerland Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers: Robert H. & Elizabeth S. Bestor Publishers: Robert H. & Elizabeth S. Bestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Editor:Editor: RobertLaura H. Bestor Riedel Contributors:Writers: Doug Linton,Margie C. Fischer, Gibson, R. Holliday, Sharon Jim Hudgins Johnson Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Web Master: Karsten PaulHorn, T. Phyllis Merschdorf Meras Adequate 4 - 7 Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Unacceptable 0 - 3 SubscriptionSubscriber Travel Dept: Services: Andy Bestor,Kurt Laura Steffans Riedel SubscriberGemut.com Webmaster:Travel Services: Andy Bestor,Charles Laura Brockman Riedel Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 10 times each year by People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 UpCountry Publishing, 151 Church Street, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521-6722 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail travel@ Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 gemut.com.
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