w Dear GEMüTLICHKEIT Subscriber The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria & Switzerland Trip Notes Our goal always is to provide fresh information but for some rea- BREMEN son I haven’t found the opportunity he 1,200-year-old Free Han- pendence), which together have until now to comment on a trip we seatic City of Bremen, on the been designated a UNESCO World made nine months ago. T Weser River, is the second- Heritage Site. Near the entrance We explored some new terri- largest city in North Germany. To- to the Ratskeller restaurant and tory—Brandenburg, Celle, Kronach, gether with its port, Bremerhaven wine cellar below the town hall, Memmelsdorf—and returned to (60 kilometers, 37 miles to the north), is the famous bronze statue of the some old favs. it comprises its own city-state, like Bremen Town Musicians, from Germany’s two the Grimms’ fairy tale of the same For four nights in Kandersteg, by Sharon Hudgins other city-states, name—a donkey, dog, cat, and Switzerland, we rented Blumlisalp- Hamburg and Berlin. rooster standing one atop the other. blick, a second floor (our third) (Rub the donkey’s hooves to make apartment near the rail station. As Badly damaged in World War II, we were six (including two kids, Bremen has bounced back as a lively your wish come true.) The Tour- seven and nine) the three bed- modern center of science, education, ist Office offers guided tours year rooms and two bathrooms were and culture, with many attractions round, several times daily, of the a necessity. The apartment’s wide for tourists. The historic heart of Town Hall and the Ratskeller; high- balcony offered a truly spectacular, the city is the Market Square in the ly recommended as the best way to panoramic mountain view of more Altstadt (Old Town), with its mag- learn about the interesting history than 180-degrees. In the large living nificent 600-year-old Rathaus (Town of these landmarks. Another note- room and dining area adjacent to Hall) decorated in distinctive “Weser worthy sight near the main square the well-equipped and spacious-for- Renaissance” style, and the nearby is the 13th-century St. Peter’s Ca- Switzerland kitchen, we were able stone statue of Knight Roland (a thedral, with its rose window and to spread out comfortably. These medieval symbol of the city’s inde- impressive mosaics on the facade, accommodations can be booked via Continued on page 3… Untours the terrific, family-owned packager of apartments in several European countries. Google “Un- German Emigration Center tours Blumisalpblick.” tanding on Bremerhaven’s Haus, or German Emigration Our little group had first-class harbor wall, the breeze car- Center (GEC), in Bremerhaven is a Eurail passes, but on a daytrip to S ries the distinct smell of salt unique museum dedicated to the Zermatt the old pro traveler forgot water. Located at the mouth of the story of this mass movement. that the segment between Brig and Weser River where it flows into the Opened in 2005, the GEC is Eu- Zermatt is not covered by Eurail. North Sea, the city was one of the rope’s largest emigration museum. This was discovered just after set- major ports from which millions of In 2007 it was named “European tling into a comfy, almost empty, emigrants left Eu- by Sharon Hudgins Museum of the Year.” The original first-class car. How much to stay rope for a new life there for the hour and a quarter trip collection focused solely on the in the Americas and elsewhere. From movement of Europeans through each way? For the six of us, more 1830 to 1914, 33 million souls, mostly than $500. So we all trooped back to Bremerhaven over a 150-year span. Europeans, emigrated to the United Then in 2012, a new wing was second-class and forked over about States. Many others went to Canada, $300 for the round trip. added to tell the story of immigra- Mexico, South America, and Austra- tion into Germany; from French The problem in late November lia. Between 1830 and 1974, another Huguenots in 1685 to today’s Asian with Kandersteg is few restaurants seven million—from Germany, other asylum-seekers. To make the his- are open and the two we tried for Central European countries, Eastern Continued on page 11… dinner—Oberlanderstube of the Europe, and Russia—set off from Exchange rates as of 8/21/13 Hotel Alpenblick and Chalet Hotel Bremerhaven to find a better life. 1 euro = $1.33 Adler—should be avoided. The Deutsches Auswanderer Swiss franc = $1.08 Continued on page 2… 1 gal. diesel, Germany=$7.03 www.gemut.com August 2013 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com

DEAR SUBSCRIBER ists props its elbows on wood tables worth a visit to stay and dine at the Continued from page 1 carved with the initials of long-dead Bräuerei Gasthof Drei Kronen. We students, soldiers, duelists, and lov- paid €87 for a decent double room **** ers. It’s a Heidelberg “must go.” and less than €40 for one of the best I am a fan of Marriott hotels, Despite a fine location, next to meals of a three-week trip: a rustic though in Europe they lack old-world the town’s great landmark bridge, dinner of salads, main dishes, huge tradition. But we are willing to over- and its very pleasant, hunting- desserts and three half-liters of the look that when we can use frequent lodge dining room décor, Zur Alten house-made beer. flyer miles or Marriott points. The Brücke’s food fails to get our recom- **** Heidelberg Marriott is on the mendation. Farther northeast of Bamberg is Neckar, but a 20-minute stroll to the Kronach. Guided by the built-in sat- center. More expensive, but more Near the Heidelberg Marriott, Restaurant Merlin offers a good ellite navigation in our VW Touran, luxurious is the Marriott Renais- we wound ever-upward over narrow sance in Lucerne. We recommend breakfast for a much lower cost than at the hotel. cobbled streets, past venerable stone both, especially if the price is right. buildings, to the four-star Hotel In Lucerne, stay far away from **** Pfarrhof where a comfortable, just- the Restaurant Helvetia on Wald- We gave Celle, a bit northeast refurbished double room awaited us stätterstrasse. Two beers, two salads, of Hannover, a quick look round. at a rate of €110 plus €4.5 per person and two main dishes cost $110 and Not far from the town center but for breakfast. constituted our worst meal ever in in a pleasant residential neighbor- hood, we found the modern Hotel The room was actually half a Switzerland. Leaving our food half- block up the street over the hotel’s eaten, we couldn’t leave fast enough. Caroline Mathilde for €150 double, including breakfast in a bright, restaurant/brewery, Antlabräu, a **** glass-walled room with a giant sky- bright, modern space of gleaming Two old reliables in Heidelberg light. Dinner in the hotel’s intimate copper fixtures and blonde wood. didn’t let us down. For about half Kanape restaurant was so-so but at Continued on page 12… the price of the Helvetia, the Hack- €49 for two, inexpensive. Using Gemütlichkeit teufel delivered hearty, carefully prepared dishes in a delightfully The best part of our short Celle • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Dis- visit, was a cold, windy, late morn- counts are often available for longer stays. kitschy room with polished wooden • All hotel prices include breakfast unless beams and crown molding, the ing walk through the Wednesday otherwise noted. farmer’s market that fills an old- • Local European telephone area codes obligatory ceramic stove, and old carry the “0” required for in-country dialing. musical instruments. town whose pedestrian-only streets To phone establishments from outside the are lined with hundreds of restored country, such as from the USA, do not dial For a dessert of warm raspberry half-timbered buildings. The the first “0”. sauce over ice cream, we stopped by Rathaus is a stunner. Back Issues Website the ancient, atmospheric Zum Ro- **** Many back issues are available free to subscribers ten Ochsen, a student hangout for at www.gemut.com. To access the issues, enter the about 175 years. Some nights there The village of Memmelsdorf, just password published in this space each month. Go to is a hot piano player and every night north of Bamberg, can be seen on http://www.gemut.com/csub.html a new generation of locals and tour- foot in about 10 minutes. If you find Password: brmn yourself in these parts, however, it’s

Vol. 27, No. 7 Hotel Restaurant Rating Key August GEMüTLICHKEIT 2013 The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria & Switzerland Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers: Robert H. & Elizabeth S. Bestor Publishers: Robert H. & Elizabeth S. Bestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Editor:Editor: RobertLaura H. Bestor Riedel Contributors:Writers: Doug Linton,Margie C. Fischer, Gibson, R. Holliday, Sharon Jim Hudgins Johnson Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Web Master: Karsten PaulHorn, T. Phyllis Merschdorf Meras Adequate 4 - 7 Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Unacceptable 0 - 3 SubscriptionSubscriber Travel Dept: Services: andy Bestor,Kurt Laura Steffans Riedel SubscriberGemut.com Webmaster:Travel Services: Andy Bestor,Charles Laura Brockman Riedel Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 10 times each year by People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 UpCountry Publishing, 151 Church Street, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521-6722 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail travel@ Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 gemut.com. Web site: www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $69 per year Guestrooms 30% Average Value 9 - 11 for 10 issues, $49 via e-mail. While every effort is made to provide correct information, the publishers can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: Facilities/Restaurant 20% A Rip-Off 0 - 4 Gemütlichkeit, 151 Church Street, Ashland OR 97520

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BREMEN Bremen Basics place is the Schlachte Weser Prom- Continued from page 1 enade along the riverbank where Population: 550,000 the port of Bremen was originally two tall bell towers, excellent mu- Elevation: 12 meters (39 ft.) located before the river started silt- seum of church treasures, and long ing up and the deep-water port was tradition of organ music, with many Tourist Offices: Bremer Touristik- moved to Bremerhaven. This former concerts still offered today. Zentrale (Tourist Information district of wharves and warehouses Office), Liebfrauenkirchhof on Bremen’s two other “old” sec- has been transformed into a row of Obernstrasse (near the Market tions are Böttcherstrasse, just off the restaurants, wine bars, and beer tav- Square) and at the Main Train Sta- Market Square, and the medieval erns packed with customers, indoors tion; tel. +49-(0)421-308-0010; fax Schnoor district a few blocks away. and out, especially on weekends and +49-(0)421-308-0036; btz@bremen- Böttcherstrasse, a coopers’ district holidays. Flea markets are held on tourism.de, www.bremen-tour- that formerly linked the old port on Saturdays and a special maritime the Weser with the town’ market- ism.de market during Advent. Docked place, was renovated in the early Driving distances: along the riverfront are several ships 1900s as a unique group of red-brick Berlin 394 km/245 miles of different ages and types, from old structures in “medieval-expression- Frankfurt 441 km/274 miles sailing vessels to river boats. Some ist” style. Today these buildings Hamburg 126 km/78 miles have been become restaurants and house the Paula Modersohn-Becker Munich 764 km/475 miles museums; others offer harbor cruis- Museum (the world’s first museum Paris 790 km/491 miles es. A pleasant way to spend the day devoted solely to a female painter, a Vienna 991 km/591 miles is on a round-trip cruise down the pioneer of German modern art), the Zürich 838 km/521 miles Weser from Bremen to Bremerhaven, Roselius House Museum (with a sailing past beautiful thatch-roofed Public transportation: Good public collection of arts and crafts from the villas that line the waterway. For transportation system of trams Gothic to Baroque period), and nu- information on routes and schedules, merous boutiques that attract hordes and buses, with numerous bicycle see www.hal-oever.de/en.html. of tourists. At the Glockenspiel paths, too. Bremen values its museums. The House midway down the street, Rail connections: Frequent rail ser- Übersea Museum is a fascinating listen to the carillon performance of vice, including ICE trains, to the combination of natural science, eth- 30 Meissen porcelain bells at noon, main station in the city center. nographic, and interactive exhibits 3pm, and 5pm. At the same times, a Nearest airport: City Airport Bre- with a huge collection of artifacts nearby tower exhibits a rotating tab- men, 3.5 km (2.3 miles) from the from all over the world. leau of the world’s great explorers. city center; 9 minutes via tram #6 (Watch out for pickpockets who take In a pleasant park, the Focke advantage of tourists focused on the to the city center (Domsheide stop). Museum presents 1,200 years of spectacle.) Discounts: Erlebnis Card Bremen: Bremen’s history in four buildings. It offers glass, silver, and porcelain The Schnoor district is the old- €9.50-18.50 for 24 hours or €11.50- exhibits and a toy collection. est remaining residential part of 22.90 for 48 hours (depending on Bremen, a warren of little houses the number of people using the The Übersea and Focke each where shippers and fishermen lived card) for unlimited rides on buses contain a hidden treasure: a separate in the Middle Ages. Later it fell into and trams, and discounts on mu- Schaumagazin, or display ware- disrepair, but has now been restored seums, theaters, and sightseeing house, where room after room of as a lively neighborhood of arts tours. Valid from 6pm the day be- the museums’ additional collections and crafts workshops (especially fore the starting date on the card. are arrayed in floor-to-ceiling glass- jewelry), boutiques, cafes, and bars. Sold at tourist offices, many hotels, fronted cases and pull-out drawers. Although it comprises only a few and online (www.getyourguide. It’s like visiting a well organized streets, the Schnoor is a magnet for com/bremen-l18/bremen-erleb- antique store displaying thousands visitors, a place to wander at leisure, niscard-t5311). of items. peeking into the shops, visiting Recommended guidebooks: Bre- The Kunsthalle Bremen has a the small museums (city history, men City Guide 2013 (in German superb collection of art from the antiques), attending concerts and and English), packed with concise Middle Ages to the present. cabarets, and enjoying the district’s information on sightseeing, restau- One of the city’s most popular many coffeehouses, wine bars, and rants, cultural activities, shopping, museums, for all ages, is the Uni- restaurants. and more. Available at the Tourist versum Science Center, housed in The other popular gathering Offices. a futuristic, space ship-like metal

Gemütlichkeit 3 August 2013 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com building. Inside are more than 250 bition center near the train station. the film stars whose photographs interactive exhibits focusing on Hotels are often filled with business adorn the walls. (In the lobby is a “Man, Earth, and the Cosmos.” Plan travelers during weekdays (pushing wall of autographed photos of no- to spend several hours here. up the prices), but rates on week- table guests.) Warning: Whether you’re walk- ends tend to be lower. If an air-con- Since the hotel occupies three ing or driving, watch out for bicy- ditioned room in summer, an eleva- renovated old houses, room sizes cles. Bremen has the largest percent- tor, and a fitness area are important, and categories vary, but in general age of land devoted to bicycle trails be sure to ask before booking. the “comfort” and “superior” rooms of any German city. Always look In addition to the establishments are the best deal. Number 12 (Bella both ways, and also behind, before reviewed below, other recommended Italia) is a spacious superior-catego- crossing a street or even changing hotels include the three-star-superi- ry room with a balcony and classic direction on a sidewalk. The density or-rated Boutique Hotel Classico, Italian furniture. Number 14 (Bau- of bicycles makes driving in Bremen “Where tradition meets modern” ernzimmer) is a comfort-category challenging. It’s better to use the ex- in 12 double rooms each individu- room decorated in traditional Ger- cellent public transportation system, ally decorated in a different theme man country style. All rooms have especially in the city center. (Moulin Rouge, Napoleon, Russian nicely tiled bathrooms. Dream, Alexander the Great). Hotels The cozy lounge features a fire- Classico is in the heart of the place, small sitting area, and bar. Bremen has many overnight ac- old town, across from the historic The breakfast buffet is served in an commodations, ranging from private Rathaus, with a nice restaurant and attractive dining room that combines guesthouses to five-star luxury ho- coffee shop, Kaffeehaus Classico, modern and antique decor and over- tels. At many hotels the room rates on the ground floor (Hinter dem looks the rear garden. vary throughout the year, depending Schütting 1A, D-28195 Bremen, tel. on the season, the day of the week, Privately owned and operated, +49/421 2440 0867, fax +49/421 1784 this boutique hotel also has three and the number of rooms available 696, info@hotel-classico-bremen. on a particular day. Prices can more elevators, a Finnish sauna and solari- de, www.hotel-classico-bremen.de; um, and on-site parking, features not than double when trade fairs and singles €85-109, doubles €99-124). conventions are held at the Messe often found in small urban hotels. Bremen, the big meeting-and-exhi- Another recommendation is Rated three-star-superior, the Hotel the privately owned Hotel Bremer Residence Bremen is an Editor’s Key Websites for the Traveler • www.gemut.com Gateway site for Haus, built in 1907 and now rated Choice selection for its combination travelers to Germanic Europe, including car three-star-superior. Situated on a of price, quality, location, cozy atmo- rental, rail passes, hotel bookings, travel tips, side street near the main train sta- sphere, and friendly staff. and past issues (free access to back issues for subscribers; see log-on info on page 2). tion and major tram lines, it offers 71 Contact: Hotel Residence, Hohen- • www.viamichelin.com The Michelin rooms furnished in a simple modern lohestrasse 42, D-28209 Bremen, tel. database of hotels and restaurants, plus great style and a sunny terrace overlook- +49/421 348 710, fax +49/421 348 interactive trip planning tools ing plenty of greenery (Löning- • www.travelessentials.com Guide- 7147 or 324 322, info@hotelresi- books, maps, travel accessories, luggage, all strasse 16-20, D-28195 Bremen, tel. dence.de, www.hotelresidence.de at 10 percent off for subscribers. Use discount +49/421 32 940, fax +49/421 329 Daily Rates: Room rates vary ac- code gemut2010. 4411, [email protected], • maps.google.com Amazing map re- cording to season, day of the week, www.hotel-bremer-haus.de; singles source. Driving & walking. Zoom in-out. Great room category, and availability. detail city & country. Satellite & terrain views. €86-120, doubles €112-144, parking Check online for current prices. Sam- • bahn.hafas.de/bin/query.exe/ €5). en German rail website, with train schedules ple rates in summer 2013: singles throughout Europe, as well as Germany. Hotel Residence Bremen €66-133, doubles €88-155, apartments • www.sbb.ch/en/ Swiss and European €111-166, parking €6/day in locked rail schedules Near the main train station, on a parking lot, €10/day in garage. • www.ski-europe.com Top Web re- quiet street in an old neighborhood Rating: Quality 16/20, Value 16/20 source for skiers with much info on Alpine resorts of handsome patrician houses, the • www.myswitzerland.com Website of Switzerland’s national tourist authority Hotel Residence Bremen comprises Best Western Hotel zur Post

• www.germany-tourism.de Ger- three villas originally built in ’s For a full-service hotel with many’s national tourist authority the early 1900s. Its 47 rooms Editor hoice cocktail bar, restaurant, coffee shop, • www.austria.info/us Austria’s and apartments (for longer C national tourist authority elevators, large wellness area, and • www.historicgermany.com Web- stays) are each decorated in different parking garage, conveniently located site for an alliance of historic German cities styles, with individual names on the near the main train station and the • www.thetravelinsider.info Info on electron- doors. The highest is The Stork’s major bus and tram lines, the four- ics for travelers — cell phones, computers, etc. Nest, while others are named after star Hotel Zur Post is a good choice. 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36 block RFID signals and keep your personal info $5. safe. (Reg. $5.95) $5.35 - $26.99 (Reg. $5.95 - $29.99) 2013 Rail Pass Headquarters: Gemut.com European Rail Pass Update: Due to great variety and ever-growing number of European rail passes, and because those prices change so frequently, we can no lon- ger maintain a complete list of passes and their current prices on this page. Research & Buy Rail Passes Online: You can find the price of all passes at our website. Go to Gemut.com and select “Rail” from the top menu. There you can re- search rail travel and purchase rail passes as well as point-to-point rail tickets. The prices will be exactly the same as at the Rail Europe website. There is no service fee for ordering online. Buy Rail Passes by Phone: Call 800-521-6722. The minimum $25 service fee will be waived for past customers and paid subscribers to the Gemütlichkeit newsletter. Sample Rail Pass Prices for 2013 • Eurail Global Saver Pass (24 countries) • German Rail Twin Pass 10 days: $799 3 days, second-class: $392 (2 persons) 15 consecutive days: $678 3 days, first-class: $538 (2 persons) • Eurail Select Pass • France Rail Pass 5 days, 3 countries, saver pass: $428 3 days, saver pass, second-class: $208 5 days, 4 countries, saver pass: $478 3 days, saver pass, first-class: $257 5 days, 5 countries, saver pass: $526 • France-Germay Eurail Pass • European East Pass (5 countries) 4 days, saver pass, second-class: $373 5 days, 2nd-class: $252 4 days, saver pass, first-class: $411 • Austria Rail Pass • Switzerland-Germay Eurail Pass 3 days, saver pass, 2nd-class: $153 5 days, saver pass, first-class: $414 • Austria-Czech Eurail • Swiss Pass 4 days, saver pass, first-class: $239 4 consec. days, saver pass, 1st-class: $419 • Austria-Germany Eurail 4 consec. days, saver pass, 2nd-class: $262 5 days, saver pass, first-class: $386 3 days, saver pass, 1st-class: $401 • Austria-Switzerland Eurail 3 days, saver pass, 2nd-class: $250 4 days, saver pass, first-class: $370 Rail Specials and News • France is no longer part of Eurail’s Select Pass but remains part of the Eurail Global Pass. It is also possible to purchase the following passes: France-Switzer- land, France-Italy, France-Germany, France-Spain, and France-Benelux. • A Fly-Rail Baggage tag checks a suitcase, bag, skis, snowboard, or stroller to any of 50 rail stations in Switzerland from any North American airport. The cost if $25 per person. • You can now buy a German Rail Pass Extension allowing travel from Germany to Brussels, Prague, Kufstein, Innsbruck, Bolzano, Verona, Bologna and Venice. For travel through Aug. 31, it’s $7 per person, 2nd class, and $14, 1st class. Restrictions apply. Order rail passes and tickets online at gemut.raileuorpe.com or phone 800-521-6722 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com Cruise the World

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For free catalog from any cruise line or to book space, phone Gemütlichkeit: 800-521-6722 x 2 Gemütlichkeit 8 August 2013 “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com www.gemut.com Independent for many years, it is Ringhotel Munte am Stadtwald more like a friend’s guest bedroom now a member of the Best Western Away from the hustle and bustle than a hotel. group, and guests belonging to Best of the city center, this four-star prop- The breakfast buffet includes Western’s awards program are eli- erty is directly across from Bremen’s sparkling wine, which can be en- gible for discounts and upgrades. spacious Bürgerpark (city park) and joyed in the spacious garden behind During the week, the majority of the Stadtwald (city forest), a large green the hotel, also a nice place to relax guests are business persons; week- area within the city limits. Compris- with a drink after a long day of ends are when tourists, especially ing three modern buildings, the sightseeing. The elegant Victorian those arriving by train, fill the guest- hotel has 120 rooms all decorated Restaurant serves regional and rooms. in agreeable modern style, with international dishes, specializes in The hotel’s 175 rooms and three comfortable furniture and soothing seasonal foods, and at lunch offers suites were all renovated over colors. Rooms in the back, overlook- a bargain daily menu (€7-8.50). The the past two years, and the decor ing trees and small gardens, are es- hotel helps guests organize bike style (modern classic) is consistent pecially quiet. An eight-minute walk tours, culinary events, and golf out- throughout the building. takes guests to the nearest tram stop ings. for a direct line to the city center. Room categories are standard/ Contact: Hotel Landgut Horn, Leher business, first-class/comfort-class, The hotel’s three popular eateries Heerstrasse 140, D-28357 Bremen, and deluxe, the main difference attract both locals and tourists: Wels, tel. +49/421 25890, fax +49/421 2589 being the size of the room. Each an upscale restaurant featuring cre- 222, www.landgut-horn.de. features a sitting area with table and atively prepared fresh fish and game, Daily rates: Singles €80-115, doubles comfortable chairs, well appointed also doubles as the breakfast room €100-130; on-site parking available. bathroom, minibar, and free WiFi. with a large buffet in the morning); Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 16/20 Many have tea-and-coffee makers, Trattoria del Bosco, a less expensive, and a few have air-conditioning. If rustic Italian restaurant (reservations Restaurants your room isn’t air-conditioned, ask recommended); and Visàvis, an ice Bremen has a wide range of for accommodations at the back of cream and coffee bar that also offers eating places, from McDonald’s to the hotel in the summer, because house-made cakes and sandwiches. the Michelin-starred La Terrasse in this is a noisy area of town near the The large wellness area, beauty the Park Hotel. Known for locally train station. salon, and pool are decorated in brewed Beck’s and St. Pauli Girl Japanese-modern style. beer, Bremen is also home to the A copious breakfast buffet is Grashoff Delicatessen whose gour- served in a bright room whose large Contact: Ringhotel Munte am Stadt- met jams, jellies, sauces, and confec- windows overlook the Bahnhof wald, Parkallee 299, D-28213 Bre- tions are exported throughout the plaza and busy street below. Within men, tel. +49/421 22020, fax +49/421 world; you can buy fine cheeses and the same building, the Restaurant La 220 2609, bremenmunte@ringho- sausages there, too, or dine in the ad- Dolce Vita (under separate manage- tels.de, www.hotel-munte.de jacent bistro (Contrescarpe 80, www. ment) specializes in Italian dishes, Daily Rates: Singles €99-145, dou- grashoff.de). Feldmann’s Bierhaus, and the hotel’s Cafe & Confiserie bles €120-180. on the Schlachte waterfront, has a Hauptmeier offers breakfast, lunch, Rating: Quality 16/20, Value 15/20 large garden with good light and a variety of tempting house-made Hotel Landgut Horn dark beers; most dishes are priced chocolates, cakes, and pastries, and a under €10 (An der Schlachte 19-20, fixed-price dinner buffet every Mon- For a place to relax farther out- www.feldmanns-bierhaus.de). An- day through Saturday (€14.90, plus side the city center, try the four-star, other popular watering hole is the drinks). Very friendly, well trained, family-run Hotel Landgut Horn. In Ständige Vertretungen beer tavern, and helpful hotel staff. the suburb of Horn-Lehe off the A-27 Autobahn, it’s a 15-minute drive or its walls covered with humorous Contact: Best Western Hotel zur 20-minute tram ride from the heart photos of various politicians and Post, Bahnhofsplatz 11, D-28195 of Bremen. other notables from different periods Bremen, tel. +49/421 305 90, fax of history; a good place to eat house- The open, airy, lobby-atrium, +49/421 305 9591, info@zurpost. made fish soups orFlammkuchen adorned with many plants, wel- bestwestern.de, www.zurpost. (thin-crust Alsatian pizza) with your comes guests to a hotel that offers bestwestern.de beer (Böttcherstrasse 3-5, www. 106 rooms, including family rooms Daily Rates: Singles €84-160, dou- staev.de/de/bremen.html). bles €106-279; parking garage €12/ and suites. All are decorated in a Kervan (at the Domsheide tram day. cozy modern style, with pastel col- ors, and include a sitting area with a stop, just around the corner from Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 15/20 table and comfortable armchairs— McDonald’s in the Old Town) serves Gemütlichkeit 9 August 2013 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com some of the best Turkish döner kebabs (€9). Meat, fish, and vegetarian salads range from €4.50 to €12.50; in Bremen, along with several other main dishes (€8.95-19.95) include try the delicious fish soup or any of well prepared Turkish and Middle the excellent “Bremer Pannfisch,” several dishes made with North Sea Eastern specialties. If you’re crazy pan-fried fresh filets of North Sea Krabben, the tiny pink shrimp that for currywurst, visit Scharfrichter, fish (salmon, cod, pike-perch) with are popular in this part of Germany. which features some of Germany’s mustard sauce, crawfish tails, veg- Main-course fish and meat dishes spiciest currywurst sauces (Mar- etables, and potatoes, all served in are in the €14-20 range, and local tinistrasse 70, www.scharfrichter- an iron skillet (€14.95). For dessert, Bremen specialties are €10.50-12.50. lounge.de). try the ever-popular North German Although the restaurant might seem Don’t miss the beautiful (and red-fruit pudding, Rote Grütze, with too “touristy” for some sophisticat- tempting!) Hachez Chocolate store vanilla sauce (€5.95). ed diners, the food is good and the in the Old Town (Am Markt 1, www. At lunch it is possible to order a portions are generous. hachez.de), or the Konditorei-Cafe one-dish meal for only €7.90 from a Contact: Haake-Beck Ausspann, am Schnoor for typical Bremen menu that changes daily. And here’s Schnoor 1-2, D-28195 Bremen, tel. bakery specialties (Marterburg 32, the biggest surprise: the Ratskeller +49/421 321 124, fax +49/421 321 www.schnoorkonditorei.de). Enjoy offers 650 different German wines 127, [email protected], www.aus- excellent house-made cakes, pas- from its famous cellar, to drink on spann.net tries, and a large selection of coffee site or buy to take away. This is also Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 14/20 drinks—as well as tasty, reason- a great place for a refreshing glass of Friesenhof ably priced meals with wine or wine in the afternoon when you tire beer—at the Kaffeehaus Classico of sightseeing in the Old Town. Those seeking the freshest seafood dishes should head to Fri- directly across from the historic Contact: Bremen Ratskeller, Am esenhof, in Bremen’s Old Town. Town Hall (Am Markt 17, www. Markt, D-28195 Bremen, tel. +49/421 The menu offers several reasonably classico-bremen.de). 321 676, fax +49/421 337 8121, priced fish dishes (€8-19), as well as Did you know that Bremen was [email protected], www. other North German specialties (€9- the first German city granted the ratskeller-bremen.de 14) and meat main dishes (€9.50-20). right to serve coffee to the public, Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 16/20 in 1673, and that decaffeinated cof- Start with the cocktail made Haake-Beck Ausspann fee (Kaffee HAG) was invented in of sea-buckthorn berry liqueur Bremen in 1906? Located on three floors of an and Prosecco over ice (€4.90). For old warehouse dating from 1550, snacks with wine or beer, order the Bremen Ratskeller the Haake Beck Ausspann in the “Friesen tapas,” a selection of one, Located beneath Bremen’s historic Schnoor district is a magnet three, or five little glass jars filled historic Old Town Hall, the atmo- for diners who want to experi- with North German cold salads and ence regional cooking in a lovely spreads (€3.50-14). spheric Ratskeller features ’s vaulted ceilings, dark wood little half-timbered house with low Editor Contact: Friesenhof, Unter dem furniture, decorative old Choice ceilings, exposed wooden beams, Schütting 12-13, D-28195 Bremen, tel. wooden wine barrels, and surpris- and plenty of rustic decorations. +49/421 337 6666, fax +49/421 337 ingly good food for a place that Although good wines are available, 6699, [email protected], seats hundreds and attracts tour- the fresh Haake-Beck beers are not www.friesenhof-bremen.de/ to be missed, including the unfil- ists from everywhere. Dine in the Rating: Quality 14/20, Value 14/20 large main hall (very noisy at peak tered Naturtrüb and the Hasseröder hours) or hide away on a leather Schwarzbier, both on draft and rea- Cafe-Bistro Mühle am Wall banquette in one of the cozy pri- sonably priced at €4 for a half liter. You can’t miss this unusual res- vate dining nooks (reservations The four-course Biermenü (Beer taurant in an old windmill. A Bre- recommended). Menu) is a good deal: foamy beer men landmark, the building sits on a hill in a beautiful park in the city This is the place to taste typical soup with croutons and bacon; beer- center. Although the windmill was local and regional specialties, such battered, crispy-fried herring filet originally built in 1699, its latest as hearty Bremen potato soup with with onion sauce; pork filet medal- reincarnation is as a casual restau- bacon (€4.90), or the “Hanseaten lions in a pumpernickel crust with rant serving good fresh food, from Teller” (Hanseatic plate) with a dark beer sauce and vegetables; Mediterranean to German, both slice of crispy-fried Knipp (pork- and bread pudding with hot cher- inside the mill and outdoors on a and-oat sausage) and Labskaus (a ries and vanilla ice cream (€23, or pleasant patio. kind of corned beef hash garnished €19.50 without the fish course). with a quail egg and red beet sauce Tempting appetizers, soups, and The menu offers a nice selection

Gemütlichkeit 10 August 2013 “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com www.gemut.com of salads (€5.50-15; large salads are Buenos Aires. Proceed to the wharf, 1973: a hairdresser, ice cream parlor, enough for a main dish); several pas- and stand next to manikins dressed vintage bookstore, travel agency, ta dishes and lighter, smaller dishes in 19th-century clothing, bulging camera shop, even a Kaufhaus de- (€9.50-14.50); fish, meat, and poultry suitcases at their sides, as they wait partment store. main courses, including traditional to board the steamship “Lahn” for Next, settle into a comfortable Bremen specialties (€15.50-22.50); the 14- to 18-day journey to New seat in the 1950s-era Roxy Cinema and luscious desserts (€5.50-9.50). York. (Earlier sailing ships took as to watch two short documentary The weekday lunch menu is €7.50, long as six to eight weeks, or even films about German immigrants and the big weekend breakfast buf- longer, to cross the Atlantic.) Also and their U.S. and Argentine de- fets are especially popular (Saturday on the wharf, listen to recordings scendants. €10.50, Sunday €18.50). of the letters sent to families and friends, describing their mixed feel- Finally, trace your own ances- Contact: Mühle am Wall, Am Wall ings about leaving home. tors’ emigration at the Family 212, D-28195 Bremen, tel. +49-(0)421- Research Center, where the knowl- Before entering the exhibits 14466, fax +49-(0)421-14467, info@ edgeable staff will help conduct showing life aboard the ships, pass muehle-bremen.de, www.muehle- computer searches for family re- through the “Gallery of the Seven bremen.de cords. (Deutsches Auswanderer Million,” a great hall lined with Rating: Quality 14/20, Value 13/20 Haus, Columbusstrasse 65, 27568 wooden drawers filled with pho- Bremerhaven, www.dah-bremer- Emigration Center tographs, legal documents, and haven.de) Continued from page 1 biographical material about many tory of migration come alive, both of the people who emigrated. This The German Emigration Center the GEC wings use state-of-the-art is the core of the emigration side of makes a good day-trip from Bre- technology in intimate, accurately the museum, a place where visitors men, 64 kilometers (40 miles) away. reproduced period settings. can spend hours delving into the Ride a cruise ship down the Weser artifacts of other lives. to Bremerhaven in the morning, A visit to the museum will be spend several hours at the museum, a memorable experience. The ad- The next sections depict life aboard the various ships and ar- then catch a train back to Bremen mission ticket is an iCard, a kind that evening. of electronic boarding pass, taking rival at Ellis Island in New York. visitors on a journey through the (Take the written test given to im- In addition to the German Emi- life of two real people: one who migrants upon arrival to determine gration Center, Bremerhaven has left Europe through Bremerhaven whether they would be admitted to enough sights to keep visitors lon- to the New World or beyond, and the United States—an eye-opener to ger than a day. The GEC is only one another who came from somewhere anyone who answers the questions of several prime attractions in the abroad to seek a new home in honestly—then try to imagine how Hafenwelten (Harbor Worlds) area, Germany. Move from one exhibit difficult those questions must have a new tourism complex located on to another, and the card activates been for non-English speakers.) the Weser’s right bank. Next, after processing through El- audio stations and interactive dis- The futuristic Klimahaus (Cli- plays that tell about each stage of lis Island and the Office of the New World, head for the replica of Grand mate House) provides a unique sci- the journey: where it began; why he entific experience for visitors who or she left home, alone or with oth- Central Station to buy a ticket to walk through nine different climate er family members; what vehicles your destination in America and zones (rainforests, deserts, moun- they traveled on; what happened to learn more about the history of Ger- tains, etc.), with interactive displays them in their chosen place to live; man immigrants in the USA. along the way. and sometimes what happened Cross the glass-enclosed walk- to their descendants. All exhibits way to the museum’s new wing, The National German Mari- are presented in both German and with exhibits documenting the lives time Museum’s open-air and in- English. of those who immigrated to Ger- door exhibits include vintage sailing In the original emigration sec- many from other parts of Europe, ships and a historic submarine. tion, visitors sit in the waiting hall as well as Asia, Africa, and the Zoo at the Sea features 47 spe- of a German shipping company, Middle East. Museum visitors who cies of animals, many of them from where tickets could be purchased lived or traveled in Germany in the the earth’s polar regions. for passage on a sailing ship, or 1970s, will feel a wave of nostalgia Take a harbor tour by boat or a later a steam ship or even an ocean at the reconstructed shopping cen- bus tour through the modern port liner to New York or Baltimore or ter featuring stores that look just as they did to immigrants arriving in and its busy operations. You can Gemütlichkeit 11 August 2013 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com even book trips to the North Sea on hof is another set of comfortable harbor-side diner on the coast of three-masted “tall” sailing ships. holiday apartments in converted Maine. Not surprisingly, fish is the Or wander through the Mediter- 200-year-old brick farm buildings focus here. Try the Bremerhaven raneo shopping center. (For more in Wremen, 15 kilometers (9 miles) bouillabaise (fish soup with chunks information on what to see and do from Bremerhaven. Price range €70- of fish and seafood, flavored with in Bremerhaven, contact Bremer- 145, lower prices for stays of more herbs and white wine) or any of haven Tourist Board, TouristCenter than one night. (Der Deichhof, In the other fish specialties on the Hafeninsel, H.-H.-Meier-Strasse 6, der Hofe 27, 27683 Wremen, tel. menu, washed down with cold 27568 Bremerhaven, tel. +49/471 +49/4705 242, fax +49/4705 950298, beer. (Treffpunkt Kaiserhafen, Fran- 414141, fax +49/471 94646 190, tour- [email protected], www.deich- ziusstrasse 92, 27568 Bremerhaven, [email protected], www. hof.de) tel. +49/471 42219, +49/471 47590, bremerhaven.de) www.treffpunktkaiserhafen.de) Where to eat Where to stay DEAR SUBSCRIBER Speisesaal Steak & Fish on the Continued from page 2 In the Hafenwelten area near ground floor of the German Emi- all the major sights, the modern gration Center is a nice casual place That evening in the hotel’s busy four-star Atlantic Hotel SAIL for lunch or dinner (open 10am restaurant we drank beer made on the City towers over Bremerhaven in – 9pm). The menu offers North premises and wolfed down grilled bratwurst, Vienna-style Schnitzel, a landmark glass-and-steel build- German and American special- mixed salads, and dessert for just ing shaped like a ship’s sail. Many ties (including dishes from “New under €35. of its 120 rooms (singles €134-164, York” and “Little Italy – Chicago”). doubles €168-198) have good views The North German fish dishes are **** over the Weser. especially recommended, includ- My vote for best German wine region goes to the Mosel. Notice I ing the Bremerhaven fish soup and In the evening the hotel’s sleek didn’t say “best wine” as that designa- the large baked potato filled with Restaurant Strom offers main tion is reserved for the reds of Baden- Krabben (tiny North Sea shrimp). dishes in the €25-25 range; the mid- Württemburg. But for the whole pack- day menu (noon to 6pm) has a nice Portions are large, and main dishes age: wine, charming villages, the way selection of dishes in the €12-and- moderately priced (under €15). In the river and roads on both sides of under range (tel. +49/471 30 9900 mid-afternoon, revive your spirits the river snake among the amazingly or +49/471 30 990 555; fax +49/471 with a cup of good coffee and one steep hillside vineyards, it’s the Mosel. of the tempting cakes on display. 30 990 500; sailcity@atlantic-hotels. Though we’ve driven through de ; www.atlantic-hotels.de). And at 6pm every Wednesday Berncastel-Kues many times, we’ve American barbecued spareribs are For a pleasant stay in a restored always just kept going. But this time, served hot off the grill. (Speisesaal possibly because it was late Novem- farmhouse in a quiet wooded area, Steak & Fish, Deutsches Auswan- consider the five-star-rated Un- ber and not overrun by tourists, we dererhaus, Columbusstrasse 65, parked the car and found a hotel, the term-Reetdach Ferienwohnungen 27568 Bremerhaven, tel. +49/471 Römischer Kaiser, in the very cen- (holiday apartments) in Schiffdorf- 90220, fax +49/471 902 2022, www. ter of town; certainly acceptable and Altluneberg, nine kilometers (six dah-bremerhaven.de) convenient accommodations. Number miles) from Bremerhaven. The two Several blocks north of the Ger- 23 is a spacious room over looking the nicely appointed, thatched-roof, river for €105. historic farmhouses are surrounded man Emigration Center, on the We sipped a little wine, strolled the by pretty gardens and offer modern Kaiserhafen III, sits the Treffpunkt narrow streets, browsed the Christmas amenities, including a hot tub and Kaiserhafen, also known as Letzte market, and shivered for the many cus- sauna. Kneipe vor New York (Last Bar before New York), because it was tomers at outdoor tables, some swathed in sheepskin blankets provided by the Prices start at €25 per person per the last place where emigrants restaurants. We finished this chilly night, plus a one-time €10 clean- could have a drink before boarding day in the spacious dining room of the ing fee. Contact Heinz and Gerda a ship to the New World. An old Hotel Moselblümchen where €53 Warnke, Habichthorster Strasse 2-4, sailors’ hangout now popular with 27619 Schiffdorf-Altluneberg, tel. brought satisfying dishes from a thor- tourists and locals, this rustic res- oughly Germanic menu. +49/4749 1511, Warnke@Urlaub- taurant has a maritime atmosphere This is a lovely town, especially unterm-Reetdach.de, www.Urlaub- of woody walls and low ceilings, when it’s just you and the locals. unterm-Reetdach.de. covered with nautical decorations. The four-star-rated Der Deich- On the outside, it looks like a little Next month, Berlin and Branden- burg.—RHB

Gemütlichkeit 12 August 2013