PREPPING IN PARIS A LOOK BEHIND THE SCENES AS THE PARIS MEN’S SHOWS GET UNDER WAY. PAGE MW1

T SOR 20 E 13 Jason Wu’s R calf leather and patent ACCESSORIES leather pump with Swarovski Elements. G G TREND

Valentino’s calf Kate leather THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Spade’s G G handbag. leather WWD G handbag. Reed Marc Jacobs’ G Krakoff’s leather and leather rubber shoe. G G and metal G handbag.

G Michael Kors’ python and metal

G clutch. G Ralph

Lauren’s Kara by VINCE LARUBINA MARKET ASSISTANT: calf Kara leather Ross’ bag.G G metal and turquoise resin ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT; cuff. G G ROXANNE

Calvin Klein Collection’s lizard platform.G G STYLED BY Some of the season’s best accoutrements came steeped in

the brightest of brights. For a roundup of resort’s stellar JOHN AQUINO; Pop Goes Resort accessories, see pages 4 and 5 and WWD.com/accessories-news. PHOTO BY

BRIDGET FOLEY’S DIARY RETAIL REVERBERATIONS Designers — They Still Matter Nordstrom’s N.Y. Move SCHIAPARELLI? IT’S NOT JUST the hunt for a designer to help realize the gal who looks a lot like Judy Davis and house’s potential. talks across the decades to Miuccia Make that the brand’s potential. Prada at the Met, but an entity throwing Nobody talks about fashion houses/ Could Have Deep Impact a party during couture to celebrate maisons anymore; in either language, the opening of its new headquarters. the notion harkens to a quaint and Street, is being constructed by Barnett. Never mind that it is not currently a ever-more-distant past, when a fashion By DAVID MOIN and According to retail experts contacted business by any reasonable measure house was presided over by a head, the SHARON EDELSON Wednesday, it will take at least two years of the word. Rather, it is a trademark fi rst one typically its creative founder. for Nordstrom to get its fl agship up and with possibilities, at least in the view Now houses have become brands CAN NORDSTROM make it in the running. They characterized the footprint of Diego Della Valle, one of the fashion administrated by ceo’s; some are parts Big Apple? as in the vicinity of 300,000 square feet, industry’s great brand masters, who of great luxury groups, brands unto Probably, considering shoppers are and bigger than the 230,000-square-foot purchased it, hired a chief executive themselves. Their operating principle fi ckle, show little loyalty to any store in Barneys New York on Madison Avenue, or offi cer, rented offi ce space and is on the SEE PAGE 6 particular, and have been long awaiting the 250,000-square-foot Bergdorf Goodman the arrival of a full-fl edged Nordstrom. main women’s store on Fifth Avenue. Ye t The Seattle-based retailer already op- it’s far smaller than Saks Fifth Avenue, erates a Nordstrom Rack outlet on 14th at 646,000 square feet; Lord & Taylor, at Street and a Treasure & Bond charity store 650,000 square feet; Bloomingdale’s, at on West Broadway in SoHo. But today, 859,000 square feet, and Macy’s Herald Peter Nordstrom, Nordstrom Inc.’s pres- Square, at more than 1 million square feet. ident of merchandising; Mayor Michael Still, Nordstrom is making a bit of Bloomberg, and Gary Barnett, president history. There hasn’t been a department and founder of Extell Development Co., store opening in Manhattan in quite are expected to reveal plans to build some time. Nordstrom’s fi rst full-line store in New For its debut, here’s what’s expect- York City, a fl agship at the base of a fu- ed, according to the experts. ture skyscraper on the north side of 57th I Nordstrom will double up on its leg- Street between Broadway and Seventh endary service. It’s a tactic that’s been Avenue. The skyscraper, at 157 West 57th SEE PAGE 3 2 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012

Billabong Takeover Talk Reignites the Briefing Box

cast of 157 million australian last for 3.30 australian dollars, or in Today’s WWd By Vicki M. Young and dollars, or $158 million. all con- $3.53 at the exchange rates at that PattY Huntington versions to u.S. dollars are at time, per share. the would value current exchange. the company at around 817 mil- BillaBong international ltd. is Billabong last week also sold lion australian dollars, or $765 Seeing red once again the focus of takeover 221 million new shares and million at February exchange at Jean Paul speculation, attracting possibly the raised 225 million australian dol- rates. at the time, Merchant was Gaultier attention of nike and tPg capital. lars, or $225.81 million, but at a said to have wanted at least 4 during Men’s officials at tPg in the u.S. discounted price as some institu- australian dollars. Fashion Week and australia declined com- tional investors began question- With a possible change of in Paris. ment, and their counterpart in ing the firm’s focus. By the time heart by Merchant, there’s re- australia could not be reached trading resumed on Monday, the newed rumblings that tPg might

for comment by press time. nike gold coast, Queensland-based return to the table with a sweet- aitre inc. officials also did not return a surfwear firm’s share price ened offer. m request for comment. dropped as much as 50 percent “i’m sure tPg has done all there’s speculation that to a record low of 92.5 australian the homework and due dili-

other private equity firms might cents or 93 cents. the drop gence on the business, and we Dominique start to eye the surf brand, as wiped out more than 200 million wouldn’t be surprised if they well as some strategic players australian dollars, or about $200 weren’t reviewing the situation such as PPR. the PPR specu- million, of the company’s capital- and coming back to make some Photo by lation stems from its purchase ization and ignited talk that the kind of offer” said Morning Star last year of skate and snow- company could become a take- analyst tim Montague-Jones. Plans to build Nordstrom’s first full-line store in New boarding retail chain Volcom over target. “But i wouldn’t be surprised if a York City, a flagship at the base of a future skyscraper on for $607.5 million, which com- the share price on tuesday number of others were also in- 57th Street, are expected to be announced today. PAGE 1 petes in the same market as recovered by more than 5 terested in it, like the nikes of Billabong. in addition, PPR also percent after founder and non- this world. Billabong is an inter- Designers are proving they are crucial to defining a owns 71 percent of the german executive director gordon national brand.” brand’s success. PAGE 1 sports brand Puma. Merchant, who owns 15.6 per- Billabong officials declined troubles began surfacing for cent of the company, told one comment. Billabong International Ltd. is once again the focus of Billabong last week when it is- australian newspaper that he the company has been re- takeover speculation, attracting possibly the attention of sued a profit warning for the would consider buyout offers. structuring its business by cut- Nike and TPG Capital. PAGE 2 year ending June 30. the com- on Wednesday, shares closed ting costs and closing stores. in pany said it expects earnings to nearly flat at 1.03 australian dol- February, the company sold 51 Citi stock downgrades for Saks, Macy’s and Nordstrom come in at 130 million to 135 mil- lars, or $1.03. percent of its nixon brand to raise the specter of second-half weakness. PAGE 3 lion australian dollars, or $130.5 in February, Billabong rejected u.S. private equity firm trilantic million to $135.5 million. that three takeover offers from private capital Partners and nixon’s Nora Ephron was remembered at a luncheon compares with an earlier fore- equity group tPg capital, the management for $285 million. Wednesday to celebrate the documentary project “Makers: Women Who Make America.” PAGE 7

On Wednesday, Google said its new 7-inch tablet, the Nexus 7, will cost only $199 and ship in mid-July. PAGE 7

Lippes Buys Back Namesake Label Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are planning a of it,” he said. “i want there to be clients-only couture presentation in Taormina, Sicily, on By RoSeMaRY an appreciation for what we do. July 9. PAGE 7 FeitelBeRg the business had lost its charm and intimacy.” The Milan shows further boosted the confidence of BY BuYing back his name lippes and his three-person international men’s wear buyers, delivering a range of and intellectual property from design team (including two whom strong, modern and print-heavy collections. PAGE MW1 kellwood, adam lippes aims to he has worked with for years and return to his roots. recently traveled with to india) Damir Doma has opened his first flagship situated on terms of the deal were not are now based in a Wooster an intimate courtyard off of the Rue du Faubourg Saint- disclosed. Street studio. “We are able to re- Honoré in Paris. PAGE MW2 the parting, which ends ally think about the brand and a two-year union, required do it as we think it should be in- Freemans Sporting Club has opened a bespoke studio months of negotiating, accord- stead of having all of these other at its New York City flagship and hopes to further expand ing to lippes. the designer also big voices coming and telling us the franchise. PAGE MW2 bought his way out of the non- what to do,” lippes said. compete clause. after joining forces with Luke Donald, the top-ranked professional golfer, was in in February, lippes will re- kellwood two years ago, the New York to fete the debut of the first RLX golf shop and launch his signature adam companies’ cultural differences toast the launch with Ralph Lauren. PAGE MW7 lippes collection, as well as made it difficult to integrate the

annaccone Pierre Cardin has a fellow innovator to thank for his women’s and men’s basics under i new York-based small designer the adam label. there will also company with the St. louis- return to the Paris men’s wear calendar this season on An Adam July 1 during the Tranoï fair. PAGE MW7 be a small assortment of bags and homas grown brand marketer, lippes t

ready-to- belts. the designer said the love wear look for said. But former kellwood ceo adam collection for HSn will no spring 2012. Michael kramer’s exit was the

longer be produced. Photo by tipping point. “Mike was really on WWD.CoM lippes said he plans to have trying to invigorate the company an intimate presentation rath- were when he started his com- and do different things,” lippes PARIS MEN’S FASHION WEEK: An eclectic lineup is in er than a runway show for his pany seven years ago. said. “it was challenging to in- store for Paris Men’s Fashion Week. For more designer return. now that he has expe- “We’re not interested in the tegrate the two companies after inspirations, see WWD.com/menswear-news. rienced having the financial very big commercial business Mike left. When they took over might of a major conglomerate, where more is more, more, more. production, they wound up ship- he is ready for a more simpli- i want to go back to how we start- ping very late. We were coming To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is fied approach to business. to ed out, which was more about from two different places — a [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. some degree, he aims to recap- friends and family. i want to go new York-based designer and COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. ture the spirit of how things back to almost taking the ego out St. louis-based brand marketer.” VOLUME 203, NO. 133. THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses Jones Names Bowman to Global Post to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, aS PaRt oF its ongoing restruc- associates. Prior to running his tablished international division, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent turing, the Jones group inc. has own company, Bowman served as as well as existing retail and li- label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless tapped Scott Bowman as group president of international busi- censing divisions, to integrate we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on president of global retail and in- ness development for Polo Ralph strategy and meet growing global all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all ternational development. lauren corp. and was ceo of demand for the Jones portfolio editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints in this newly created post, Marc Jacobs international. of brands. of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at Bowman is overseeing the inter- With his new role, Bowman is Bowman’s hiring comes on www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that national strategy, as well as retail based in new York and reports to the heels of the appointment of we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at and licensing for the company’s Richard Dickson, president and george Sharp, who joined the P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED portfolio of fashion brands. chief executive officer of branded company earlier this week as ex- ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER Most recently, he was chief businesses at the Jones group. ecutive vice president of design, UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR executive officer of the global Bowman’s position will have another new post. DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A consulting firm Scott Bowman him overseeing the recently es- — R.F. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

w28a002a;10.indd 1 6/27/12 8:28 PM 06272012202906 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012 3 WWD.COM and Weighing Nordstrom’s NYC Effect L

{Continued from page one} far away.” traub also said that he said, referring to such clos- women’s apparel two weeks ago, Lexie More seen at other openings, to make the success of Nordstrom in ings at Gimbel’s, Korvettes, succeeding Loretta Soffe, who a strong impression and handle midtown “depends on how the Alexander’s and Ohrbach’s left in january. the expected rush of curious brands react,” and added, “I decades ago. “It’s obviously Concerns were also raised Photo by consumers. suspect Nordstrom is paying a going to bring a critical mass Wednesday when Nordstrom, n Nordstrom will also play up pretty fancy rent.” of shoppers over to the West along with Saks and macy’s, was its superior selection of shoes, Bernard Aiden, chief ex- Side. It will be a destination for downgraded by Citibank (see currently among the hottest- ecutive officer of Catherine people on the West Side. A lot related story this page), which selling categories at most de- malandrino, which sells of people with a lot of spending cited a slowing of high-end partment stores. Nordstrom, said of the distribu- power won’t have to always go to spending and weakness in wom- n Nordstrom will have a major tion issue, “On the West Side, Bloomingdale’s or cross town. en’s designer apparel. Citibank impact on other retailers and honestly, there is nothing. Saks It’s going to further energize called it “a systemic issue.” midtown. the family-run, publicly Fifth Avenue and Barneys New the area along with the time Some retail experts believe held chain is likely to grab market York are on the East Side. We Warner Center. It will have a lot the addition of Nordstrom to share from competitors and force could use a great store on the of allure as a shopping destina- the 57th Street corridor could them to up their game. For years, West Side. It’s a different neigh- tion. there’s going to be a lot create a continuum of shopper manhattan retailers have feared borhood. On the West Side, I of retail square footage where traffic from the East Side all the the arrival of Nordstrom and don’t see who it’s going to bother. there’s none existing presently. way to the Shops at Columbus pondered where it would end up Still, as far as us selling to them, “that area has had difficulty. Circle on the West Side, altering peter planting a flagship. I have to make a little research.” [Nordstrom] will create a lot of the area’s pedestrian patterns. nordstrom there are challenges. For “Initially, [Nordstrom’s] going synergy to bring in brands that the streets along 57th Street, one, the store will be located to be an island. they have to were reluctant to open stores west of Fifth Avenue, have al- in a pocket virtually devoid hope that some more retail fol- there. Hearst tower and other ways been fashion challenged. in an upscale area where there of fashion retailing. Said one lows down the road. Right now, buildings with big retail spaces For Nordstrom to select 57th is a lot of foot traffic. Fifth Avenue landlord, “When there’s nothing coming down the have been begging for tenants Street, the economics had to “What were the alternatives? wealthy women from Europe road,” said joe Sitt, ceo of thor for years. there will start to be appealing. the Nordstroms Hudson Yards? that seems or the middle East come out of High Street Advisors. “that part be some more significant in- have been very cautious in their like a long way off,” said one Bergdorf ’s, they never go west. of 57th Street is a little bit grun- fill between the two projects, search for a manhattan site. the manhattan real estate executive they go east to madison Avenue, gy. this will bring it up to snuff. Nordstrom and time Warner.” family has looked high and low who requested anonymity. “It’s or maybe Bloomingdale’s.” It will help the office and resi- Nordstrom’s assortment tends for over a decade, including ex- really hard to find a big box in Secondly, there could be is- dential in the area more than it’s to be more traditional and less amining the former Drake Hotel midtown. It’s an incredible op- sues with certain brands that going to help retail in the area.” designer-oriented than Bergdorf at 57th Street and Park Avenue; portunity. Nordstrom will ignite Nordstrom would like to sell at Another source said of Goodman, Bloomingdale’s or 3 Columbus Circle, as well as that part of the West Side.” its manhattan flagship but have Nordstrom’s management, Saks, and the company for properties on West 34th Street, “When they built time distribution agreements with “they felt very badly about seasons has cited difficulties in the Financial District and Warner, there were a lot of skep- other major retailers in town. not being able to be on Fifth in some women’s categories. the former Alexander’s building tics,” said Robert K. Futterman, “this puts Nordstrom right in Avenue. In their budget, they Nordstrom plugged a big hole next to Bloomingdale’s, which chairman and ceo of Robert K. the heart of Bloomingdale’s, found an affordable alternative in its women’s team earlier became the Bloomberg Building. Futterman & Associates. “But Saks and Bergdorf Goodman on West 57th Street.” this month by promoting tricia the most recent consideration the Shops at Columbus Circle country,” said marvin traub, the “It’s a big deal for New Smith, corporate merchandise was Hudson Yards under devel- is working. It’s captured an au- consultant and former chairman York to get a 300,000-square- manager for the B P. teen girls’ opment on the far West Side. dience. It turns out, the upper of Bloomingdale’s. “the chal- foot department store,” said department, which has been one Overall, there were few viable West Side customer is really lenge will be to get the brands, jeffrey Paisner, a retail broker of the better-performing areas, sites for Nordstrom, considering underserved in terms of retail. many of which also have their at Ripco. “Department stores to executive vice president and the amount of space required Nordstrom will really change own freestanding stores not have gone out of New York,” general merchandise manager of and the preference for situating the neighborhood.”

percent, or 6.76 points, to 600.83, taurants sales — were initially lagging the Dow jones Industrial trending toward a better than Average, which gained 0.7 per- 6 percent increase. johnson is High Alert for High-End Retailers? cent, or 93.34 points, to 12,627.01 sticking by his projection for a with solid gains in the energy 2012 sales gain of 5.7 percent, By EVAN CLARK sector. Retail investors were on a modest rise from last year’s A sERiEs of downgRAdEs fRom Citi alert following word tuesday that growth rate of 5.6 percent. SummER’S juSt started, but re- pREssuREd REtAil stoCks wEdnEsdAy. Conference Board’s Consumer “We’re in midtide position,” tail might be cooling off, particu- Confidence Index fell to its low- he said. “that tends to separate larly in the rarefied world of luxe. est level since january, dropping the better performers from the u.S. retailers started off the to 62 for june from 64.4 in may. weaker performers. At the bot- year on an upswing that was Concerns about the luxe con- tom end, the entirety of value is aided by a particularly mild sumer are not new. tiffany & Co. strong and that has not changed.

winter, but the sales gains start- ➧ ran into troubles in the u.S. in It’s the midtier and the luxe ed to taper off by late spring. the first quarter and last month [chains] where you’re getting a that slowdown has now run 3.1% lowered its outlook for the year. separation of the weaker and headlong into a general weak- Patrick mcGuiness, the jew- the stronger performers.” ness in women’s designer fash- eler’s chief financial officer and johnson said his store checks ions, slower economic forecasts senior vice president, told in- show that Saks, Neiman marcus for the u.S. and China and a vestors at the Oppenheimer 12th and Bergdorf Goodman have flair up in Europe’s debt crisis. Annual Consumer Conference all been under pressure, while All together, that has mud- Wednesday that challenges are Bloomingdale’s has been weak- died the outlook considerably. a result of larger macro issues. er than its corporate cousin, “We have a cautious view on “Discounting in the luxury macy’s. Nordstrom, according to the consumer for [the second ➧ space has been more and more johnson, has been doing fine. half] and expect the pace of con- 3.1% competitive and I think we will Arnold Aronson, managing sumer spending to slow, driven by continue to see that in these eco- director of retail strategies at a soft u.S. macro environment; nomic times,” mcGuiness said. Kurt Salmon, said, “there’s weakness in Europe, including Europe’s debt troubles have no question that the continued the drag on tourism to the u.S.; weakened the euro and made it uncertainty is keeping the con- uncertainty around the presiden- more expensive for European sumer from becoming exuber- tial election, and declining con- tourists to spend on their trav- ant again, but it’s hard, for me at sumer confidence,” said Deborah els. the currency shift cuts two least, to predict a drastic slow- Weinswig, an equity analyst at ways, though, since a cheaper ing in the business. It will be Citi. “the slowdown is being led euro also makes it less expen- a moderate stabilization so to by high-income consumers, who ➧ sive for u.S. retailers to buy speak and then we’ll see what account for approximately 50 per- 1.5% European made goods. happens.” cent of spending, own approxi- the recent weakness might Aronson said retailers have mately 90 percent of u.S. equities, also be a reversion to the mean been careful to prepare their and are most impacted by stock for retail. operations to be able to handle market volatility.” Craig johnson, president a slowdown Weinswig downgraded shares of Customer Growth Partners, “the caution is not just in of Nordstrom Inc., Saks Inc. and said the year is still on track sales forecasting, but…in the in- macy’s Inc. to “neutral” from and that the warm winter struments of earnings and those “buy,” pushing the stocks lower [same-store sales] growth ahead.” and Nordstrom Inc. dipped gave stores an early boost that are inventories levels, which and weighing on the sector. In her the category was also cited as a 1.5 percent to $47.90. Saks and skewed sales results. they’re being cautious about, note on Saks, the analyst said, “We weak point for Nordstrom. macy’s declined to comment on “the year started out a little and expense levels, the cost of see the weakness in women’s de- Shares of macy’s Inc. fell 3.1 the downgrades. A message left hot,” johnson said, noting that doing business.” signer apparel as a more systemic percent to $33.14, as Saks Inc. at Nordstrom was not returned. core retail sales — excluding — With contributions issue that will likely weigh on declined 3.1 percent to $9.72, the S&P Retail Index fell 1.1 automobile, gasoline and res- from AlexAndrA steigrAd

w28a003a;9.indd 1 6/27/12 8:29 PM 06272012203022 4 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012 Get the Details

Resort has definitely moved on from the boring days. The latest season is overflowing with spectacular, must-have accessories.

Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci’s leather, metal and crystal camera bag. Louis Vuitton’s raffia and leather platform.

Tor y Burch’s moonstone and raffia necklace.

Oscar de la Renta’s snakeskin clutch. RT SO 20 E 13 R ACCESSORIES TREND

Gucci’s metal and resin FOR A COMPLETE necklace. ROUNDUP OF RESORT’S ACCESSORIES, SEE Chanel’s cotton and WWD.com/ polyurethane shoe. accessories-news.

Pierre Hardy’s napa leather and canvas wedge.

Versace’s Nina Ricci’s glass, grosgrain and brass and Swarovski metal bag. crystal ring. WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012 5 WWD.COM

Sonia Rykiel’s Diane von Furstenberg’s Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière’s patent calfskin, snakeskin, lambskin and calfskin and lambskin shoe. snakeskin and leather handbag. resin pump.

Donna Karan’s Rochas’ brass clutch. cotton wedge.

Fendi’s leather and Lanvin’s varnished Lucite pump. wood clutch.

Sergio Rossi’s leather Stella McCartney’s glitter, polyurethane and cotton faux croc and clutch. and brass wedge. VINCE LARUBINA MARKET ASSISTANT:

PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, KYLE ERICKSEN AND THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT 6 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012 Brands Don’t Create; Designers Do

{Continued from page one} nurtured the house codes. At Dior, was more marketing than reality; talented (if less so than McQueen, a rare (if not the price of their wares) is staying on brand is essential, but means fashionwise, there wasn’t much to build and real artist) and willing to actively practically Marxist: The brand is something very different than at Chanel. on. One can argue correctly that the translate the runway glory into the supreme. The individual exists for the The Bar Jacket hasn’t traveled as well business has exploded further under spoils of a workable business. good of the brand. through time as Mademoiselle’s tweeds, the savvy stewardship of Frida Giannini; Hiring the right person for the job From a business standpoint, true and at his brilliant Dior height, John few would maintain the fashion impact is the goal of every h.r. person with an indeed. Just as it’s the evolutionary goal Galliano created incredible magic, but of has escalated similarly. Prada was a open head count. At the highest creative of a species to continue the species, a kind lean on workable day clothes. generations-old, staid family business. level of fashion, that basic concept has it’s the evolutionary goal of a brand In some high-profile instances, A genius granddaughter turned it into a somehow translated into the belief that, to continue the brand. Companies are appointment of the right designer directional mecca via explosive fashion in this age of omni-channel branding, the intended to outlive their founders has triggered revival. The masterful rooted in insightful reading of the message trumps all else, including the and flourish through generations. A Cristóbal Balenciaga makes the short cultural moment. level of design. A frightening thought, primary duty of responsible leadership list of all-time fashion greats. But More recently, the arrival of “the right” and one debunked by plenty of recent is to facilitate longevity, requiring a leapfrog a half-century or so after his designer has had dramatic impact on evidence. Where might Halston be if 10 structure and philosophy that prime, and you found no established houses. Phoebe Philo has years ago Elbaz had been recruited there deem no one, top designer consumer clamor for a made Celine one of fashion’s driving rather than by Shaw-Lan Wang at Lanvin? included, indispensable. Yet redux of his long-dormant forces. Riccardo Tisci might work a jockey What if Ghesquière had risen through the fashion — pure fashion, at least ready-to-wear. Thankfully, cap or two into his lineups, but it’s hardly ranks at Ungaro? What if 15 years ago, — follows a higher calling than its owners had a keen his celebration of the house iconography, Bernard Arnault had hired someone other mere bottom-line beauty. Stupid- eye for design talent. which in popular perception doesn’t run than Jacobs at Louis Vuitton? The house sounding perhaps, but true. I’m Balenciaga’s second act much further than Audrey Hepburn in would surely be the cash cow it has always not downplaying the importance has flourished because an LBD, that has thrust Givenchy into the been, but perhaps not with the fashion of making money (it’s glorious; I’d profile it enjoys today. love to make 10 times more than There are multiple levels of success. I do) or suggesting that designers A recent resort We all know that bags, shoes and look from as a genre are above concerns of Bridget Foley’s fragrance drive the business, a condition the wallet. But the elite designers, Chanel by Karl unlikely to change. And Godspeed. Again, those who drive fashion, those Diary Lagerfeld, fashion brands exist to make money. Not few who will be remembered, do fashion’s most all fashion financiers, nor the executives more than design to the bottom successful they enlist to direct their brands, aspire line. At its best, their fashion codifies, or designer to the higher calling of fashion. Fine even instigates, something in the larger employee. there, too. Burberry seems to fit into that culture, often presenting alternatives category. Early in his tenure, Christopher to the status quo. At the same time, it Bailey emerged as one of the drivers speaks directly and with passion to the of fashion; more recently, his runway individual, offering one of the most seems to have taken a backseat to larger intimate vehicles for self-expression, self- branding efforts via social media, along discovery, self-transformation. At times the way downgrading Burberry as a it awes with exceptional beauty, bravado directional fashion player but certainly or emotion. Not a job description all that not as a luxury brand. many people can fill. Yet as Elbaz said poignantly during With the possible exception of jeans, his resort presentation in New York dating to the 19th century (and here, the recently, fashion cannot lose the lore credits that industrious supplier to aspirational element, the dream. In the gold-mining set, Levi Strauss), one less than a week, Raf Simons’ debut for is hard-pressed to identify a specific, Dior will be history. The reviews will seismic modern-era fashion occurrence be in, social media will be swirling and for which a brand deserves more credit the next chapter in the remarkable life than the designer. Social movements of one of fashion’s greatest brands will trigger fashion looks again and again — have commenced. In the fall, we’ll get Gibson Girl, flapper, bobby-soxer, beatnik, our first look at Hedi Slimane’s Yves hippie — but megabrands, not so much. Saint Laurent women’s collection. The New Look — created by Christian For anyone who loves fashion, the Dior, the man, not the brand. Le Smoking anticipation for both is intense not — Saint Laurent the man, not the brand. ·· merely because each house boasts a new Grunge — Marc Jacobs, the man. (He designer but because these particular didn’t invent grunge, but jumped on designers telegraph the possibility of its fashion resonance. Perry Ellis the something great, something special. brand wasn’t smart enough to keep him Dior is a huge global brand with employed.) Street-savvy minimalism — a name that resonates deeply and a Helmut Lang, the man, whose company’s rich history about which many people influence far exceeded its volume. know something. Saint Laurent is a not- The past 15 years have seen riotous A fall look from huge brand with a name that resonates movement at the creative helms of Jil Sander by Raf deeply and a rich history about which fashion houses/brands. Every owner Simons, who makes many people also know something. who has employed a designer to his debut at Dior That prior knowledge heightens the reinvent or take over a brand has been on Monday. pressure on the respective designers, motivated, consciously or otherwise, GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY who postshow will likely read whether by fashion’s most successful hire ever, critics deemed their efforts worthy that of Karl Lagerfeld by Chanel. In a or not of the hallowed house names piece on the dominance of brand over The elite designers, those who drive fashion, — a challenge demanding rare talent, designer in WWD Collections Magazine fortitude and nerves of steel on the part in April, Lagerfeld told my colleague do more than design to the bottom line. of the designers. Most likely, Simons Miles Socha, “Chanel is Chanel. Fendi is and Slimane feel compelled to work the Fendi. It’s my job to do the image of the house codes to some degree. Slimane companies and not go on an ego trip.” Nicolas Ghesquière, an unknown forefront of inspirational (to consumers telegraphed as much via his decision to True, and gracious of Karl to thus 26-year-old when he presented his and other designers) houses. revert to a logo close to the company’s articulate. Yet Chanel’s strength of first runway collection, made it so. “I work for Nina Ricci,” Peter original ready-to-wear signage. identity today — not to mention the That Ghesquière incorporates precise Copping told Socha. “My personal At Schiaparelli, let’s hope whomever wild bottom-line success — springs as archival references into his supremely aesthetic and taste lean very closely gets the job doesn’t feel that particular much from Lagerfeld’s near 30-year modern work wouldn’t matter if his toward Nina Ricci, so it automatically pressure too acutely. Other than stewardship of the house codes as the Balenciaga didn’t resonate so powerfully makes for a good fit.” those who have attended “Impossible codes themselves; who knows where with the designer customer. At Alexander McQueen, the elevation Conversations” at the Met, only the truly Chanel would place on fashion’s food Lanvin — how many semi- of Sarah Burton has proven golden, so fashion-obsessed care much about, or chain had Alain Wertheimer made a knowledgeable fashion consumers could much so that PPR is now engaged in a even know much about, Schiaparelli’s different hire in 1983? state one fact about Jeanne Lanvin, let level of brand expansion not attempted creative ethos. Were someone to emerge In Socha’s story, branding experts, alone identify a dress? Lanvin matters with Lee McQueen at the·· helm. To be with the wit and deft touch to work talent-search executives and designers today because Alber Elbaz has created honest, I read Samantha Conti’s WWD those Surrealist motifs with modern alike stressed the importance of a something wonderful for — as he loves story last week a bit wistfully, happy ease — delightful. But a lobster sweater designer staying “true to brand,” implying to remind us — women of today; not for the extremely gifted and deserving amuses once (maybe). Fashion that that to do otherwise would devastate a because he takes some draping cues Burton, for McQueen’s legacy and for the resonates with women on a daily basis business. That’s also true when the brand from a long-forgotten designer. house, but sad that he is better known has enduring appeal, whether from a already matters, not only historically but In the Nineties, with fashion mired and more widely appreciated in death megabrand such as Dior or a successful within current business realities. Chanel in heroin-chic/deconstruction doldrums, than in life. Despite her completely rebirth from dormancy, à la Balenciaga must stay on brand as we know it, in along came Tom Ford. His “reinvention” accidental ascent, Burton has proven and Lanvin. Either way, the designer part because Lagerfeld has so brilliantly of Gucci’s golden age of the Seventies herself perfect for the brand, fabulously matters. A lot. WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012 7 WWD.COM

Gloria MEMO PAD Steinem FASHION SCOOPS ALL ABOUT NORA: The last lunch the Harpies had with Nora Ephron almost didn’t happen. JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY FIRE FIGHT: Amazon’s Kindle Fire has The Harpies are a group of a new competitor in the wings. On accomplished women who’ve been Wednesday, Google said its new seven- meeting regularly for lunch for years, inch tablet, the Nexus 7, will cost only maybe a little over a decade. No one’s $199 and ship in mid-July. Google ever kept track. also said it would expand Google Play There are nine of them, like in the offerings to include magazines, which is Supreme Court, and they’re all sages in directly aimed at Apple’s Newsstand. their respective worlds — journalism, Most magazine publishers have public relations, politics, gossip. already signed on with Google, including There’s Barbara Walters, Liz Smith, Jennifer Hearst, which will have all 20 of its Maguire Isham, and publicists Peggy Siegal titles available for purchase on Android and Maurie Perl, among others. Smith smartphones and tablets. Hearst is came up with the nickname. offering single copies of Esquire, Elle, The lunches are always off the Good Housekeeping, House Beautiful record, never at the same place. They and Seventeen for 99 cents for a limited talk politics and cosmetics, media generation, but to her peers as well. time as part of the launch. Condé Nast shake-ups and family, breakups and At a luncheon Wednesday to has five magazines available on Google the virtues of truffle sandwiches. celebrate the PBS/AOL documentary Play, including GQ, Bon Appétit, Vanity Ephron was one of the last to project, “Makers: Women Who Make Fair, Wired and Condé Nast Traveler. The A five-stone necklace join. And when she did — no one America,” where Ephron herself is rest of the portfolio will roll out in the by Sophie & Shannon’s remembers when exactly (maybe five featured, her passing set the tone for coming weeks, said a spokeswoman. Jewel Box. years ago?) or who invited her — it was the afternoon, and several high-profile Rodale has launched all of its strange to everyone that she hadn’t women — Walters, Gloria Steinem, PBS magazines on the platform, marking SIMMONS’ JEWELRY BOX: Gene Simmons’ joined before. president Paula Kerger and “Makers” the first time its titles are available on wife and daughter are making their The chats, quippy and serious, and filmmaker Dylan McGee, who quoted Android devices. The most recent single own foray into self-expression, albeit the women themselves — successful, Ephron’s Wellesley commencement issues will be available for 99 cents. via a very different route than that of opinionated — seemed ripped from speech — paid tribute from the Meredith is also on Google Play, with the Kiss front man. In collaboration one of her essays or movies. podium. Steinem said it was fitting for magazines such as More, Every Day with the Home Shopping Network, “It felt as though she’d been part of Ephron to be featured in a collection with Rachael Ray and Ladies’ Home Sophie and Shannon Tweed-Simmons will the group for years, like she’d had a of female personal histories. Journal. — AMY WICKS launch an accessories collection seat at the table forever,” Perl said. “With her usual wit and timing, she called Sophie & Shannon’s Jewel Usually they rescheduled when they has left us words and film,” Steinem SICILY, SOTTO VOCE: Domenico Dolce and Box. Comprised of costume jewelry, couldn’t make full quorum. But in May, said. “There’s literally no stronger Stefano Gabbana are planning a clients- belts, dresses and handbags, the though only six could come, they went argument for creating this inspiring, only couture presentation in Taormina, line is meant to span generations, ahead and met anyway. Ephron and irresistible record of women than to Sicily, on July 9. It’ll be a far cry from incorporating pieces that both a Barbara Walters picked the place — Le have Nora’s words with us today.” their usual paparazzi-popping, starlet- mother and daughter can wear. Petite Maison in Midtown Manhattan. Walters singled out the bond that populated, multimedia runway blitzes. “I enjoyed doing this mother- They sat in a round table, as was the the women of the Harpies cultivated. In fact, no press are invited. daughter project because I wanted custom, in a corner near the back and When Ephron joined, “she brought The designers have been warming to show how we could share clothes it was quiet, one of the few occasions everything that she is,” Walters said to the idea of exclusive, unique gowns, and achieve different looks,” when they didn’t have to shout over minutes before her speech. “The not unlike those spotted in May on Shannon Tweed-Simmons told WWD. the usual chatter of the restaurants. humor, the honesty, the people she Scarlett Johansson, Bianca Brandolini d’Adda “I take Sophie’s things and call It’s hard now for them to remember met, the things she’d done.” and Andrea Dellal on the red carpet them ‘hand-me-ups.’ She takes mine what they talked about; when asked The Harpies got an intimate, table- at the Costume Institute gala at the and calls them ‘hand-me-downs.’ ” about the lunch Wednesday, Walters side look at Nora the raconteur, Nora Metropolitan Museum of Art. Dolce and “The most challenging part of just shrugged and smiled. They were the food lover, Nora the confidante. Gabbana reportedly have been mulling the process was picking only a few never meant to be anything more than When they were going through tough a couture line for some time. Word has things out of the buckets of ideas no-bull gab-a-thons, she said. times, it was Ephron who comforted it that the July presentation on their we had,” said her daughter. But the women of the Harpies them over a lunch of truffle sandwiches. home turf is an experiment to see if The collection, which ranges remembered Ephron’s spirit that “I’ll treasure those kind of quiet, the designers want to take the concept from $24 to $99, will launch on afternoon. “Nobody knew she was thoughtful moments with her,” Perl further into a full-fledged business. HSN, hsn.com and HSN mobile sick,” Smith said. Not that she would said. “She’s somebody I’m grateful and — LUISA ZARGANI on July 30. — KRISTI GARCED have let on. She was indomitable, blessed that I could say I know. I missed averse to melancholy, more likely to her even when I didn’t see her.” soliloquize about the smoked salmon Even among a group of women who at Barney Greengrass than an illness. are all accomplished in their own “Nora was someone we all wanted right, Ephron was someone to look to at the table. We always wanted to know for advice. Her life experience gave what Nora thought about any given her an uncanny sense of empathy for subject,” Perl said. “She didn’t preach. other women’s stories. She gave you an opinion or a point of “There’s some in the group that view. And on a personal level, she was are younger than others, but we For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. extremely generous and kind to each all liked and respected each other of us independently.” tremendously,” Perl said. “These are a Many women have offered core group of women who are all very condolences and remembrances supportive of each other.” online and via the press since “I had a tremendous amount of Spaces Ephron’s passing Tuesday at 71. For respect for her,” Siegal said. “She young women, her death represents was a role model especially among COMMERCIAL the loss of a talisman, a woman who successful women because she REAL ESTATE SEWING FACTORIES NEEDED epitomized success on personal terms. really had it all. She came from a Manufacturer looking for sewing facto- But it’s a testament to Ephron’s family that was very accomplished. ries in NY Area - steady work! Dresses, sportswear - fast turning, quality ori- legacy and influence that she wasn’t She went through two divorces. She ented factories able to produce popular just a role model to a younger had children. And yet she had this priced garments. Contact: Sang 646- 366-7299| [email protected] unbelievable career.” 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes For women, young and old, Ephron Menswear Showrooms Barbara D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 Walters was also a cheerleader. “She always made you feel better Showrooms & Lofts about what you were doing. She was BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Great ’New’ Office Space Avail PATTERNS, SAMPLES, always a fan,” said Maguire Isham, ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 PRODUCTIONS Full service shop to the trade. an executive vice president at the Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Tribeca Film Festival who is one of the younger Harpies. “The thing about — ATTENTION CLASSIFIED ADVERTISERS — Nora was that she said you could do In observance of the Independence Day Holiday, more than one thing. She always said WWD will not publish on Wednesday, July 4th. she reinvented herself every 10 years. Fairchild offices also will be closed that day. SALES And she always pushed us to do that. Deadline for issue of Thursday, 7/5 will be Tuesday, 7/3 at 11am. I am seeking a sales position w sports- That was a big thing coming from her.” wear Mfg. of Jr, Jr Plus, & Kids. Ag- gressive & experienced. 516-659-6577. With Ephron gone, it’s not clear what Thank you for your cooperation. will happen to the Harpies. “I think we’re all shattered,” Smith said. But Perl says eventually they’ll pick up again. (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] “I think Nora would find it very strange if we stopped,” she said. — ERIK MAZA

MAN OF THE WEEK PLUS: Pierre Cardin returns Under Water to the Paris men’s wear calendar at the Tranoï While getting attention with a capital A for his in-pool exploits trade show. Page MW7 of late, Ryan Lochte’s style sense is far from golden. Page MW7

June 28, 2012

MILAN WRAP-UP Sportswear, Separates BY A NECK Are the Key Items For Stores This Spring The men’s wear shows have moved to the French capital, a showcase for designers from Japan, America, Belgium and beyond. Here, Dries Van Noten gingerly adjusts Retailers at the Milan shows a collar on a model at his Antwerp, Belgium headquarters. For a look inside more were also attracted to the studios as designers prepare their spring collections, see pages MW4 and MW5. loose fabrics and beautiful colors on the runways.

by WWD Staff

MILAN — The shows here further boosted the confidence of international men’s wear buyers, delivering a range of strong, modern, summery, colorful and print-heavy collections. “I think the message is clear that sports- wear and separate jackets are driving busi- ness, apart from knits and wovens. There was a very strong presentation on tailoring, but it was decidedly more focused on separates,” said Tom Kalenderian, executive vice presi- dent and general merchandise manager of men’s wear at Barneys New York. Designers were focusing on putting forward collections that differentiate spring from fall, he noted. “Designers used the runway to speak to the lightness of fabrics, beautiful colors, especially blues, every shade from navy to sapphire to a beautiful Mediterranean Capri blue or a brighter Yves Klein blue; blue is by far the most important color.” “A very nice week, very fresh, a real sum- mer season full of color, with touches of humor,” echoed Tancrède de Lalun, gmm for men’s and women’s apparel at Printemps. “The spring man is an elegant playboy of sorts, who wants to wear a nice jacket, beau- tiful shoes…” “Designers are taking chic to another level, infusing sophisticated color pair- ings in sportswear and clothing. Gucci was a great example of this. The terrific styling of the show demonstrated how a man can wear such bold color or prints in a strong and masculine way,” commented Matthew Singer, men’s fashion director, Neiman Marcus Stores, Neiman Marcus Direct and Bergdorf Goodman. “Color continues to be a driving force for men. The bright colors are very exciting, especially in pants.” Other key spring colors included Bordeaux, red, tobacco brown, pine green and mustard. “I think Milan is moving in a very mod- ern direction, which I like. Traditionally, Milan has been more classically oriented and I see it really moving ahead with exper- imental tailoring, it has a really modern feel right now to me,” said Eric Jennings, men’s fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue, who mentioned the bomber jacket among key items for spring. Prints were rife, as were metallics, which surfaced on everything from shirts and out- erwear to accessories, though retailers ex- pect the shiny trend will take a year or two to trickle down to guys on the street. David Wakely, divisional merchandise manager of men’s wear for Lane Crawford, PHOTO BY MARLEEN DANIELS found the Milan season full of theater and {Continued on page MW6} MW2 WWD Thursday, June 28, 2012 Men’s Week Damir Doma Opens Paris Boutique by KATYA FOREMAN The project came around a Doma said he wants the store little faster than expected, he to serve as a template for poten- PARIS — Five years after launch- said. “We were planning to open a tial retail partners. He hopes to ing his brand, Damir Doma has store in the near future, but didn’t open two stores in Asia next year. opened his first flagship situated expect it to happen this quickly. The Damir Doma brand is on an intimate courtyard off of the The location came up and we had jointly owned by Doma and Paper Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. to jump on it. It’s great for us to Rain SA, a Paris-based company Framed by Burberry, Brunello be next to Comme des Garçons, I that bills itself as an incubator and Cucinelli and Comme des Garçons think we share a lot of clients and management company specializ- boutiques, the three-story site, a similar philosophy,” he said. ing in luxury fashion and design. which is accessible by a set of Men’s and women’s clothing is In June 2011, Paper Rain ap- stone steps, measures about 2,000 presented together on the store’s pointed former longtime LVMH The bespoke shop is located above Freemans restaurant. square feet. first and second floors, along with Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton ex- “The idea was to give the pieces from the brand’s diffusion ecutive James Greenfield as man- feel of a Parisian building that line, Silent by Damir Doma. aging director of its Paris-based has been gutted,” said architect Freemans Adds Bespoke Studio Rodney Eggleston, who juxta- by JEAN E. PALMIERI produced to their specifications in posed “typically Parisian” details around 12 weeks. Three “posture such as sections of aged parquet HIPSTER FAVORITE Freemans photographs” are also taken of flooring, with industrial elements Sporting Club has opened a bespoke each customer so any issues that — exposed concrete walls, sus- studio at its New York City flagship. could impact the fit of the suit can pended brass clothing rails and The 1,000-square-foot spot be addressed, according to Young. black, burnished plaster walls. is tucked away at the end of The finished suit will include Striking features include a ceil- Freeman Alley, off Rivington a personalized label with the cus- ing of aged mirrored squares, each Street, between Chrystie and tomer’s name and the date it was with silver partially eroded away Bowery, and accessed by walking completed. Young said he hopes to at the back to allow light to pass through the company’s restaurant, eventually get the completion time through, as well as a stacked trav- Freemans, and up a flight of stairs down to six weeks, and possibly four.

ertine marble platform running aitre hidden behind a faux bookcase. In addition to suits, Freemans along one wall, which serves as a m The shop, FSC Bench-Made Bespoke also offers custom dress table for bags, shoes, jewelry and Bespoke Studio, opened with little shoes from Allen Edmonds, a col- knitwear. The ground floor has a fanfare earlier this month after being lection of vintage timepieces curat- roomy changing room behind a long The Paris store, here and Dominique tested for six months, and produces ed by Hodinkee, and bespoke belts, by leather curtain, and a small seating below, features typical custom clothing on-site that retails wallets and bags from AE McAteer. area, both near the cash wrap. Parisian elements. for $3,950 and up. The by-appoint- “The focus of the room is all A monumental staircase made Photos ment-only shop boasts five full-time about the environment,” said Young. from artfully stacked slabs of trav- Doma said the top floor would luxury and accessories division, in-house bench tailors, seven sewing “It’s like a private store. People can ertine marble connects the levels. be used as a private space for in charge of the Damir Doma as stations and two cutting tables. The come up here from the restaurant “The idea was to try to trans- clients, and also to showcase spe- well as the company’s Silent and operation is overseen by Alex Young, with a cocktail to be fitted. In fact, late some of the main elements cial collaborations exclusive to Côte & Ciel brands. Paper Rain studio director, and master tailor we encourage late-night visits.” of my work into the store’s de- the store. An eyewear line with also appointed Carlo Zollo as Felix Aybar, who previously worked The company’s West Village sign, working with oppositions; Mykita is planned for September, commercial director for Doma’s for Giorgio Armani and Tom Ford. location on Bleecker Street has working with precious things, for instance. The designer will men’s and women’s ready-to- The bespoke offering comple- also installed a bespoke depart- but at the same time being very also create special garments for wear collections. ments the off-the-rack suits sold ment, Young said, and eventually raw and pure,” Doma said dur- the boutique and is working on “It was a big boost for us,” in the main store. Those suits are Freemans would like to offer the ing an interview at the store in a scent project with Givaudan’s said Doma. “We are growing from manufactured by Martin Greenfield service at its San Francisco store the run-up to the opening. Antoine Maisondieu. a design company into a real in Brooklyn and sell for $1,800 to as well. “We haven’t found a tailor brand, and it’s not easy for me to $2,400. The street-level store also we’re happy with,” said Young. manage all this. Designing is one sells sportswear and accessories In fact, finding skilled tailors thing, but designing a company is and has a barber shop in the rear. was perhaps the biggest challenge another. I am learning so much “We’re trying to evolve the when deciding to take the plunge about management from James.” brand,” said Kent Kilroe, Freemans into custom, but Freemans was Doma, 31, was born in Croatia managing director. “And we were able to find workers that fit the bill. and grew up in Germany. His fortunate to find an amazing tailor, “When we made the investment of mother, Zdenka Doma, owns a tex- which encouraged us to bring anoth- money and time, we were worried tile factory near Lake Chiemsee in er level to our quality and service.” whether we’d be able to keep them southern Germany and develops Freemans, which is owned by busy,” said Kilroe. “But they’re most of the brand’s woven sam- the restaurateur Taavo Somer, making eight to 10 suits a month ples. The collection is produced who also serves as creative direc- now, and we’d like them to make 20 in Italy. Doma’s sister, Dorotea, de- tor, and his partners Kilroe and or 30.” The Bleecker Street store is signs the brand’s jewelry. William Tigertt, has built its repu- producing four to five suits a month. Declining to disclose sales tation on offering products made Somer said he hopes to further figures, Doma said men’s, with in America by skilled artisans. expand the Freemans franchise which he started out, is still Each bespoke suit takes by looking into the Japanese mar- slightly stronger, though wom- around 60 hours of labor to pro- ket next year, and he also hopes en’s, introduced for fall 2010, is duce. Customers will be fitted four to open additional stores on the quickly catching up. times, and a custom suit will be West Coast.

Balenciaga Mugler Hardy Amies City of Light(s) The men’s shows kicked off in Paris with designers showing looser and less rigid silhouettes inspired by classic men’s shapes.

Balenciaga: A looser, easier Because Mugler’s digital- trenchcoats in sea foam green silhouette took shape this season, savvy creative director — or oil-slick black. bringing to mind the dandy style prone to live-streaming and of Japanese composer Ryuichi crowdsourcing — decided to go Hardy Amies: For the British label’s Sakamoto in the Eighties. Long, offline this season and “under Paris debut, creative director Claire boxy coats had kimono-sleeve the sea is the only place we Malcolm mined the late Hardy construction, some in unlined can’t have Wi-Fi,” he laughed. Amies’ style and the rarefied world silk seersucker fabric. Roomy too He and men’s wear designer that Cecil Beaton chronicled — from were long shorts and an elongated Romain Kremer brought in a the Thirties through to the Sixties. tailored jacket. It was a confident new tailoring team and honed But her appealing lineup of sharp, new step for the brand into the in on fundamentals — jackets, single-breasted suits looked modern, men’s arena. Artsy touches included pants and shirts — “without not retro, in shades of white, optical motifs on T-shirts, a tropical being too extreme,” as royal blue and navy, particularly flower print and vibrant Tamara Formichetti put it. Although the when a printed parka was tossed de Lempicka colors to enliven the gill-like slashes and jutting fins over. Prints nodded to times

Giannoni Giovanni stark black, white and gray. were outré, his suits had a taut, past, such as a faded geometric

by muscular presence. And the motif on light cotton shirts and a Mugler: Why an undersea theme worked swimmingly for kaleidoscopic ice blue and white

Photos theme for Nicola Formichetti? graphic scuba tops and sleek print done on a tuxedo jacket.

w28b002a;9.indd 2 6/27/12 7:19 PM 06272012192012 www.cerruti.com MW4 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012 Men’s Week

PARI HOMME FRONT Pierr

GREAT FIT WITH AMI’S ALEXANDRE MATTIUSSI. TWO STEPS AT DAMIR DOMA. PARIS MATCH AT CHR

PACKED AND READY TO GO AT KRIS VAN ASSCHE.

DOUBLE VISION AT VIKTOR & ROLF. GONE FISHING WITH KIM JONES AT LOUIS VUITTON. WILD AT HEART AT MAIS Men’s Week WWD thursday, june 28, 2012 MW5

PARIS — From a sea of luxury nauticalwear at Louis Vuitton to Space-Age chic courtesy of Pierre Cardin, an eclectic lineup is in store for Paris Men’s Fashion Week. — Laurent Folcher

straiGht JacKet at dior hoMMe.

Subhead

Paris Match at christoPhe leMaire. seeinG red at Jean Paul Gaultier. John Galliano’s three aMiGos.

aitre m Dominique by S other ll a Stephane Feugere; by wild at heart at Maison Martin MarGiela. haVinG a whale of a tiMe with thoM browne. the riGht to bare arMs at ricK owens. Vuitton photo

w28b004(5)b;9.indd 5 6/27/12 6:49 PM 06272012185239 MW6 WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012 Men’s Week I DI DI RI l l t A A t t nnon IA RIS RIS MAES G I C C o o nn VA pIER pIER DAVIDE

o I G photo by photo by photo by photo by

Burberry Emporio Gucci Jil Sander Prorsum Armani Retailers Respond to Modern Milan

{Continued from page MW1} david Wakely, dMM of Men’S Wear, soft footwear, going from basketweaves lots of strong metallic. Neil Barrett was re- surprise. “There has been a sense of confi- lane craWford and plays on the espadrille, to mesh, per- ally strong, especially the varsity jackets, dence that was not evident in previous sea- Sound off: “The overall mood in men’s wear foration and color. Color in footwear is cool baseball tops and an off-white tuxedo sons. From the return of Jil Sander showing right now is one of confidence and positiv- very strong. The sneaker seems to be mak- at the end. And we loved McQueen. It was a collection of bold color and graphics, the ity. There are lots of commercial looks to ing a return to the catwalk this season and absolutely beautiful — the best collection sophistication of Burberry Prorsum’s sharp get behind, which will allow us to present Salvatore Ferragamo just nailed it.” in the past two to three years. They have re- tailoring and metallics, to the showman- the best offer for men’s wear.…In terms of ally elevated it, and it’s one of the strongest ship of Dolce & Gabbana’s Sicilian boys and brand mix and offer, we’re looking for ex- MaTTheW Singer, Men’S faShion direc- brands at the store. We loved the embroidery Versace’s gladiators, there is much excite- clusivity and uniqueness, newness for our Tor, neiMan MarcuS SToreS, neiMan and the dragonfly tuxedo.” ment, with men’s wear more playful than fashion savvy Asian market.” MarcuS direcT and bergdorf goodMan Trendspotting: “Shorts on the catwalk for before. Men are dressing up and showing Trendspotting: “Modern tailoring was key — Sound off: “Despite the temperature being work and play and with tailored jackets. off,” he said. whether the…34-length sleeveless topcoats a little too warm at times, the energy was Blousons and bombers — we saw some beau- Jil Sander, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, at Jil Sander or the neat, slim suiting at high and the vibe positive.” tiful blousons from Prorsum — and lots of Prada, Burberry Prorsum, Emporio Neil Barrett and Burberry Prorsum. The Trendspotting: “Prints, with a focus on shirts. cropped trousers. One trend is worrying for Armani, Bottega Veneta, Belfast, Z Zegna double-breasted blazer has been reinter- Short-sleeve is going to be important for me — sandals and socks. I think it’s tongue and Trussardi were among the collections preted differently, which is refreshing.” us. Loving the lightweight blouson for next in cheek, a play on the look. I think sandals that received wide praise from buyers. season, it’s a retro style done in a modern on their own will work, though. Footwear on Several of them applauded Sander’s ToM kalenderian, execuTive vice way. In accessories, it’s definitely in soft the catwalks was really strong this season.” debut effort back in the driver’s seat of her PreSidenT and gMM of Men’S constructed bags and portfolios.” namesake brand. “I thought the runway was Wear, barneyS neW york JaSon broderick, gMM of Men’S Wear very modern and showed a definite power Trendspotting: “A lot of the trends were driven Tiziana cardini, faShion direcTor, and WaTcheS, harrodS of this designer coming back into control by cloth, a lot of cloth development and dou- la rinaScenTe Sound off: “We thought it was a very of the brand,” said Barneys’ Kalenderian. ble-faced fabrics. Unlined is an important Sound off: “It was a good week, all shows strong season with great collections from “Going to the showroom, looking at the trend in outerwear and tailoring. Contrast were interesting from a design standpoint Ermenegildo Zegna and Gucci. Both showed clothes up close, I thought that the fabrics color. And in shirting there’s quite a bit of and were a guidance for the market. The a more masculine man and more consumer- were exquisite and there was a definite print. They’re either micro designs that collections were classy, yet with an easy friendly collections. We loved Fendi and we change in production, especially for the tai- remind you of Macclesfield or Spitalfields style, they veered either toward formalwear thought McQueen was outstanding.” lored clothing, where she upgraded product designs from textile mills, or you see big with a sense of ease, or sportswear with a Trendspotting: “Minimalism was quite impor- and silhouette and feel, the level of luxury splashes of pattern in a floral motif.” sense of elegance and luxury, which is what tant, and we saw very clean looks from Jil is superb.” the Made in Italy production is all about.” Sander and Prada; pastels, neon, and san- Prada’s collection was equally as im- Tancrède de lalun, general Merchan- Trendspotting: “Color, which showed an en- dals to complement all the shorts.” pressive, he said. “The textiles you saw on diSe Manager for Men’S and WoMen’S ergetic attitude, a positive response to the the runway were actually natural, it’s a dou- aPParel, PrinTeMPS moment. New proportions for suits, with roSy biffi, oWner of biffi ble cotton, with a double-face construction, Trendspotting: “For shoes, the slipper or tas- short double-breasted jackets and short, bouTique, Milan it had so much body and a soft, cashmere seled moccasin, often worn with summer tight pants or Bermuda shorts.” Sound off: “Except for a few shows, I had touch. The conceptual appearance was very socks. Prints were major, with allover prints the impression that the collections were a modern and graphic, the clothes are very and a lot of kinetic designs.” kevin harTer, vice PreSidenT of faShion bit too fashion-forward for market taste. All luxurious.…This was, I think, a very good for Men’S and hoMe for blooMingdale’S the companies gave their best in terms of re- example of Prada at its best.” Jeffrey kalinSk y, execuTive Sound off: “The Milan collections will really search and professional expertise, but some- Here’s more of what buyers had to say: vice PreSidenT of deSigner resonate with our Bloomingdale’s customers.” times they failed to meet buyers’ needs.” MerchandiSing, nordSTroM Trendspotting: “It was all about beauti- Trendspotting: “Double-breasted jackets, Toby baTeMan, buying direcTor, Sound off: “Spring ’13 feels optimistic. Our ful color palettes and textured fabrics. slim fits, revisited classics. “ MrPorTer.coM customers are asking for more brands and Garment dying, sun-faded patterns and in- Sound off: “It was the first season that I man- bolder fashion, so spring will be a great sea- digo treatments all played a role. We see a adaM kelly, buying Manager of Men’S aged to stay out of the bar at the Principe son for us, and our budgets will be bigger.” bigger push on some trends that we are cur- deSigner, forMal and acceSSorieS, and I am very happy for it. I could see the Trendspotting: “Lots of bold colors anchored rently having success with: double-breasted SelfridgeS collections particularly clearly this season.” in white or khaki. Military green also blazers, printed batik wovens and linen-cot- Sound off: “I was quite excited about Milan Trendspotting: “Double-breasted suits and looked beautiful. Safari jackets were plen- ton blends all played a role. Also the infu- — it was a good week. Milan is kind of back. jackets remain a key trend. Trousers are tiful, usually in classic linen. Voluminous sion of active-inspired looks in many collec- The fashion and trends of today suit Milan slim, for the most part, and were often fin- shorts (and shorts in general) were every- tions will be a big opportunity for us.” — in the sense that there is a lot of simplic- ished a little short with a turned-up ankle. where in all fabrications, even leather.” ity, and the print angle lends itself to brands Otherwise, we saw trousers with pleats, darren Skey, head of Men’S Wear, like Gucci. It was about futuristic moderni- and tapered at the hem. The ‘short’ suit is eric JenningS, Men’S faShion direcTor, harvey nicholS ty, simple in its aesthetic. Our budgets are definitely here (both on and off the run- SakS fifTh avenue Sound off: “Usually, when you see Milan and not decreasing, and will increase where way). Silk fabrications were evident, which Trendspotting: “Almost every kind of print, then you see Paris, Paris is the more exciting relevant.” goes hand-in-hand with the opulence of the whether it’s florals, tropical, little medal- of the two. But there was some really good Trendspotting: “Metallics — I wasn’t expect- continuing prints trend. In formalwear, we lion prints, chinoiserie, exploded tropical. theater this year in Milan — especially from ing them, and I don’t know where they came saw tuxedos of all varieties being shown Footwear is another hot topic right now. Dolce & Gabbana and Versace. Burberry from. Constructed satin and silk jackets in black and white, of wool and silk. The The brogue continues, but it’s not your fa- Prorsum has been quite sedate over the and trousers, and printed jackets, shirts Fifties seemed to be an inspiration for the ther’s brogue. There are many variations — past seasons, but we saw some really great and trousers. Modernity — the clothes were color palette and the shapes we saw.” mixed media, casual, dressy. Then there’s colors coming down the catwalk, as well as about now and about the future.”

w28b006b;9.indd 6 6/27/12 6:46 PM 06272012184653 Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 2012 MW7

Pierre Cardin Donald Steps It Up for Ralph, First Tee tries to push the boundaries with by JEAN E. PALMIERI acter and instill values into young his new collection. people through the game of golf. All IT’S NOT EASY being number one the net proceeds from the sale of — just ask Luke Donald. the shirts benefitted the charity. The top-ranked professional Donald said he got involved with golfer has traded the lead spot with the organization “a few years back” Rory McIlroy a couple of times through his former sponsor, Royal over the past three months and Bank of Scotland. “I got a taste for knows that retaining the top world it.” And today, he hosts an annual ranking can be elusive. event in Chicago, his adopted home “There is pressure,” the town, to raise funds for the local af- Englishman admitted during a per- filiate of the group. “It was not doing sonal appearance at Ralph Lauren’s well and could have gone under,” New York City flagship last week. he said. “I’ve lived in Chicago for 15 “As number one, more is expected of years and thought I could have an you and there are more demands on impact and help resurrect it.” your time. People expect you to per- He said that what attracted him form well — and I expect me to per- to the First Tee is the chance to form well. But you can only control “help kids who don’t have the op- what you can control, put in the time portunity to play.” He knows that and hopefully it pays off. It’s about he was fortunate to be able to join MAITRE managing expectations.” a golf club in the U.K. when he was Donald, who didn’t make the cut just nine years old and that had a of the recent U.S. Open, was planning major impact on his life. DOMINIQUE to take a couple of weeks off before BY Luke Donald

defending his title at the upcoming PHOTO Scottish Open at Castle Stuart next in the RLX The shop offers month followed by the British Open golf shop. EYE a selection of the following week. Then there’s the golf apparel and Cardin’s Paris Homecoming Bridgestone Invitational in Akron, accessories. by JOELLE DIDERICH Ohio, and the PGA Championship in South Carolina in August. “It’s a long run of events,” he said with a smile. PARIS — Pierre Cardin has a fellow innovator to thank for “I came off a disappointing week at the U.S. Open his return to the Paris men’s wear calendar this season. where I didn’t play well,” he admitted. “But I’ve still Armand Hadida, artistic director of the Tranoï trade had a pretty solid year. I’ve won twice and it got me show and owner of the chain of L’Eclaireur concept back to number one over Ror y. So it’s been a good year, stores, has invited the Space Age couturier to show on but there’s still a lot left and the chance to achieve July 1 at the Palais de la Bourse during the fair. more victories, even one of the majors.” Cardin said the collection was based on belted and Despite his success — which included the top spot on sleeveless jackets, in line with his lifelong fascination

the PGA Tour money list last year — Donald has never IANNACCONE with futuristic silhouettes. won a major, something McIlroy has managed to achieve. “Given my age and my long career, I did not want to Donald said that although the two are rivals, they’re show just well-made, classical clothes,” the designer told THOMAS

“friendly off course. I don’t call him up to go out for BY WWD. “I’m interested in creating, in pushing the boundar- dinner, but we’re very cordial. But we still want to beat ies of fashion, in being ahead of my time, even if I get crit- each other. We’re fierce competitors and both work icized for it. If people don’t like it, that’s not a problem.” PHOTOS hard to get to the next level.” Since his first Cylinder men’s collection, shown on 250 Although McIlroy has been the biggest threat to He also appreciates the opportunity to be dressed by French students in 1960, Cardin has defied the conventions Donald’s number-one ranking, he said that any num- Ralph Lauren for nearly a decade. “I signed with them of men’s wear, while simultaneously building an empire ber of competitors are capable of moving to the top. in 2003, one year after I turned pro,” he said. “It’s been a with licensed goods including classic suits, shirts and ties. “There really isn’t one guy who’s ahead of everyone great fit and allows me to surround myself with a premier In his Paris store at 27 Avenue Marigny, conservative else like Tiger [Woods] was at his peak,” he said. “The brand. Ralph Lauren is an icon in the world of fashion.” navy suits are displayed alongside a red vinyl bomber top 20 guys are all very close so it’s gratifying for me Donald said that although Ralph Lauren is jacket sprouting black rubber tubes. Cardin, who turns to stay on top for close to a year now.” American, his sensibility — and his ubiquitous polo 90 next month, is confident his avant-garde designs will Donald was in New York to fete the debut of the logo — “has its roots in England.” In addition, by being be understood in time. first RLX golf shop and joined designer Ralph Lauren an ambassador for the upper-end performance line “Everything I did 20 or 30 years ago is selling now. for cocktails at the Rhinelander Mansion to toast the RLX, Donald is able to indulge his “love of fashion and Yo u might say I won’t be around in 20 years, so it doesn’t opening. He also signed autographs for fans the fol- more European style. It’s got a slimmer cut and is more really matter,” he added with a laugh. lowing morning. The appearance served to introduce sporty,” he said. I’m just fortunate that they think I’m The last time Cardin showed men’s designs in Paris was a limited-edition Luke Donald RLX golf shirt created the right guy for RLX. I love the brand and all my com- for his 60th anniversary retrospective in September 2010. by Lauren to benefit The First Tee, a charity that pro- petitors are jealous that I get to wear it. It makes me Hadida said the aim of the Tranoï show was to intro- vides educational programs designed to build char- look good and when you look good, you play good.” duce the designer to a younger generation of buyers and journalists, adding that Cardin would also show his wom- en’s collection during the fall edition of the trade event, Man of which runs from Sept. 28 to Oct. 2. THE WEEK RYAN LOCHTE: C+ “There is nothing commercial about my approach,” Hadida said. “Pierre Cardin has so much to say. He is like a fashion bible — he’s completely impervious to age.” The swimmer has taken His hair is obviously fried from the chlorine. Indeed, Cardin’s latest project is a folly that will likely A Kérastase leave-in hair mask would go dwarf his previous achievements. On Sept. 24, he is due a long way to repair his pot-scrubber locks. to attend a ceremony laying the first stone of his Palais Michael Phelps to task at Lumière, or Light Palace, a 790-foot high tower to be this week’s Olympic trials The bow tie is perfectly hand-tied — thank built on 125 acres of reclaimed industrial land, owned by the fashion gods he didn’t go for a clip-on. the designer, on the border of the Venice lagoon. and is expected to heat up “I can hardly believe it myself, it’s so unexpected,” said A hidden placket tuxedo shirt Cardin, noting construction should be completed by 2015, the pool in London. would have been more appropriate, in time for the Universal Exposition in Milan, which by but that’s the least of his problems. then should be linked to Venice by a high-speed train. But when it comes to “It will have 10 restaurants, four cinemas, 50 lifts, He’s busting out of his jacket. Get a bigger size. his fashion choices, he’s 2,000 parking spaces, 1,400 apartments and 300 hotel It looks like a clergyman’s stole. It’s a pity rooms, in addition to a helipad,” he said. “It’s a habit- drowning in bad decisions. to let someone dress you who doesn’t know able sculpture.” what they’re doing. Tuck the scarf inside Cardin is also planning a party in the fall at his Palais He may have been going for the jacket or leave it back at the room. Bulles near Cannes, which is the subject of a coffee table book written by his right-hand man Jean-Pascal Hesse, a sophisticated “The Great A black jacket would have been a lifesaver. scheduled to be published by Assouline in September. Gatsby”-style look but with Hadida, meanwhile, said he was in talks with an in- Unless he’s timing himself in the 400 individual ternational hotel chain to take his Royal L’Eclaireur store concept worldwide. A cross between an art gallery, his beefy new physique, medley, there is no need for this style of watch at a formal event. If the shirt cuff were showing, hotel suite and store, the original store opened a year the white tuxedo jacket it might cover it, but alas, no. ago at the Royal Monceau hotel in Paris. “It’s the link between the heritage of the store and makes him look more like what stores will look like in the future,” said Hadida. “It’s The pants fit him well and are not too flowy. also very complementary with our e-business sales.” a Chippendales’ dancer. The retailer said he expected e-commerce to account The shoes are so precious they’re annoying. If you’re desperate VASQUEZ/GETTY NOEL IMAGESFOR USA SWIMMING for about 20 percent of total sales by the end of 2013, It’s sartorial suicide. for tuxedo slippers, make sure they’re not embroidered. and was also looking for locations to open stand-alone

PHOTO BY L’Eclaireur stores in the U.S. 82 MERCER STREET JULY 22, 23, 24, 2012

NUMBER: LAB ● COMUNE ● PUBLIC SCHOOL ● HOWE ZANEROBE USA LLC ● PALLADIUM ● PENDLETON

JC RAGS ● LIBERO FERRERO ● GILDED AGE HUYTON UNION ● JEAN MACHINE ● ZEN MECHANICS MASSIF COLLECTION ● T. CHRISTOPHER BILLIONAIRE BOYS CLUB ● BED STÜ ● O PENMARKET FJALLRAVEN ● MOODS OF NORWAY ● VSTR PAPER DENIM AND CLOTH ● BLACK APPLE ● INCASE 50% BRANDS 100% PROJECT YORK

UNDER TWO FLAGS ● GENERIC SURPLUS ● HEX FIN’S FOR HIM ● SONS OF HEROES ● BEN SHERMAN

LACOSTE FOOTWEAR ● SLVDR ● GOORIN BROS.INC CREATIVE RECREATION ● MARSHALL ARTIST TOVAR CLOTHING ● ORIGINAL PAPERBACKS

NUDIE JEANS ● BRENT WILSON ● NATIVE SHOES DEL TORO SHOES ● BARBOUR ● HANGTEN GOLD LABEL HERSCHEL SUPPLY COMPANY AND MANY MORE

REGISTER AT PROJECTSHOW.COM FOLLOW US