ABAETE’S PAYLESS LINK/3 TURIN’S OLYMPICS TURN/12-13 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • February 2, 2006 • $2.00 Sportswear How Injeanious NEW YORK — With a host of recent entries, the denim market is thriving, and Yves Castaldi’s I-Generation is one stand-out label. Launched last year, the premium unisex brand comes in sizes from 24 to 38, so scrawny rocker boys and curvy girls alike can scoop up the military-inspired jeans and sleek basics. Here, I-Generation’s cotton denim pencil skirt, shown with American Apparel’s cotton tank and Delman fl ats. For more noteworthy denim lines, see pages 6 and 7.

Counterfeiting Attack: Luxury Retailers Unite In Major NYC Initiative

By Liza Casabona NEW YORK — Mayor Michael Bloomberg is stepping up the city’s fight on counterfeiting. In a speech here Wednesday, Bloomberg proclaimed February 2006 as Anticounterfeiting Month and revealed an initiative, Madison Avenue Blue, involving major luxury goods and fashion retailers to help boost the financing of

Y KIM FRIDAY the city’s anticounterfeiting efforts. The aim is to help stem the tide of counterfeit goods, which the International Chamber of Commerce estimates costs businesses $600 billion a year in sales worldwide.

KEUP BY CHICO/JUMP; STYLED B KEUP BY Participating boutiques in Madison Avenue Blue to date include Arche, See Brands, Page 14 PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO; MODEL: OLGA/Q MODELS; HAIR AND MA TALAYA PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION ™ Always on the hunt for the next big thing in the denim world, WWD 6 rounded up the freshest crop of hot topics. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL A new initiative, Madison Avenue Blue, marries the city’s top boutiques PAJAMA PARTY 1 with the NYPD to help generate funds for anticounterfeiting efforts. A Celebration of Casual Comfort Laura Poretzky, designer of sportswear line Abaeté, is teaming with 3 Payless ShoeSource for the Abaeté for Payless shoe collection. Chances are you haven’t been invited to a 42% were in the 56 to 70 age group. A similar, yet EYE: Talking with Joey Lauren Adams, who last week made her slumber party in quite a few years, but it’s a safe bet opposing trend was obvious with t-shirt and boxers; 4 screenwriting and directing debut in “Come Early Morning” at Sundance. that the concept of pajamas has grown and evolved while a mere 2% of women aged 56 to 70 wore this DISH: Wichy Hassan doesn’t underestimate the importance of Miss since that time. combination, it gained momentum among 7% of 8 Sixty’s runway show tonight in New York — his fi rst show ever. While the term pajamas in the traditional sense women aged 36 to 55, 19% of women aged 25 to 34 The Winter Olympics in Turin, Italy, are still eight days away, but retailers has always implied some form of sleepwear --- be it a and 25% of women aged 16 to 24. said tourists, notably Americans, are already on a shopping spree. nightgown, nightshirt, chemise or a matching top As newer options and opportunities abound, so 12 and bottom --- the category now do new businesses. In 2002, Classifi ed Advertisements...... 19 extends to a far more casual, but The Vermont Teddy Bear To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. no less deliberate grouping of Company launched Pajama- [email protected], using the individual’s name. t-shirts, boxer shorts and knits. Gram, a catalog- and web-based WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- Along with greater variety in the business offering an easy means RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 191, NO. 23. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- category, an interesting aspect of of pampering women with ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- the pajama evolution is its beautiful, yet fun and practical ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers expanded role from sleepwear to options in sleepwear. “Pajamas are Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; “at-home” wear for many women. incredibly popular with women, David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior “I think the trend towards a so we want to offer items Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. more casual lifestyle has carried that women can actually see Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. over into women’s choices about themselves in. It’s not necessarily 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS what to wear when they’re about what’s sexy, it’s about what CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, home and relaxing, no matter she really wants to wear,” says ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four how many hours it is before Nicole L’Huillier, a spokesperson weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. bedtime,” considers Kathryn for the company. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other “Women are too busy today U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Gordy Novakovik, director of “I’m happiest when I’m in my First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, fashion marketing for Cotton to keep changing their clothes. pajamas,” shares Ellie Badanes, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions That’s what has helped pajamas and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To Incorporated. “I think women who has taken her passion for the subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make want to get changed once and transcend from sleepwear to product to the ultimate level and our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would an integral part of a woman’s wardrobe.” interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise know that whatever they put on founded, aptly enough, The us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. can carry them from dinner and — Wendy Shum, Pajama Company, a web site WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- JWE SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- straight into bed.” dedicated to offering pajamas ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, An entirely fresh crop of that, in Badanes’ words, “make OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED complementary tops and bottoms in bold patterns, people happy.” She adds, “I don’t even think of it as as well novelty prints with whimsical flair done in sleepwear or loungewear, but more what I call ‘living sumptuous fabrics, and the desire to keep them wear’, which is about the every day.” under wraps, or at least indoors, is almost irresistible. Rebecca Apsan, owner of La Petite Coquette, a In Brief “Today’s pajamas have such great style and versatility, premier lingerie destination in New York’s Green- you almost wouldn’t know what they really were wich Village weighs in on the importance of fabric ● KELLWOOD SELLS BIFLEX: Kellwood Co. has sold its unless someone tells you,” Gordy Novakovik choice. “You can’t be uncomfortable when Bifl ex Intimates Group to Fairfi eld, Conn.-based Industrial continues. “They allow you you’re choosing sleepwear Renaissance. Bifl ex, which makes the licensed Oscar de la to be stylish and comfortable What Women Wear to Bed and that’s why I will only Renta bra line as well as private label bras, was acquired by wear cotton; for its comfort Kellwood in 2002 for about $100 million, according to industry all at the same time.” estimates. Terms of the deal announced Monday were not dis- “The common denomi- and breathability.” Many Pajamas 34% closed. Industrial Renaissance, a private equity company, spe- nator is functionality but women agree and were Nightgown 22% cializes in buying companies and positioning them for future there’s a distinct eye on willing to take extra growth. The shedding of Bifl ex is part of Kellwood’s restruc- T-shirt 17% style,” tells Wendy Shum, measures. When asked by turing strategy that began in October when it sold its Donald senior vice president of sales T-shirt &Boxer Shorts 14% the Monitor if they were Brooks sportswear business as well as its Dotti swimwear and marketing for JWE, a Nothing 5% willing to pay more for cover-ups operation. In November, Kellwood completed the transfer of its sewing facility in Honduras to local ownership. manufacturer in New York. Shorts/Boxer Shorts 2% natural fibers such as cotton, Underwear 2% The Bifl ex unit will be the last line of business to be sold in the “We’ve come a long way 63.4% answered in the restructuring plan, the company said. Investment banking fi rm Lingerie 2% from the days of the flannel affirmative. “There is no Financo Inc. assisted in the transactions. pajama; today, these garments substitute,” Apsan completes. are made to look like a two or three piece outfit. But also be sure to be true to your own style and ● TOMMY DEAL CLEARS ANTITRUST HURDLE: Tommy Hilfi ger There are great trims and details that go well beyond you can’t go wrong. “A great pair of pajamas should Corp. said it cleared Federal Trade Commission review under the Hart-Scott-Rodino Antitrust Improvements Act of 1976 re- the basic notch collar.” be an extension of what a woman wears during the garding its acquisition by Apax Partners. “The transaction is This modern interpretation of pajamas is likely day; ideally, it should have the fit, feel, style and still expected to close in spring 2006, subject to the satisfaction what keeps the garments the number one choice in familiarity of a great pair of jeans that we know and of other previously disclosed closing conditions,” the company sleeping attire for women today. According to the love,” Badanes adds. said in a statement. Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™, one in The comfort, variety and versatility of today’s three women declared pajamas as the item she most pajamas are moving them out of the bedroom, in ● BYE-BYE, BYRD: The House voted 216 to 214 to pass a bud- typically sleeps in. The traditional nightgown much the same way that athletic attire exited the get reduction package on Wednesday that included repeal of a trade law known as the Byrd Amendment, which compen- seconds the list as the preferred sleepwear of choice gym and entered mainstream wearability. Could sated U.S. companies hurt by undervalued and subsidized im- with over one in five women. the popularity of Juicy Couture’s velour track suits at ports, and also eliminated a cotton subsidy program, each of Lifestyle is just one of the factors influencing celebrity events, for example, herald a wake-up call which were deemed illegal by the World Trade Organization. women’s pajama preferences. According to the for high-end “party pajamas?” The broad budget legislation, which will slash $39 billion from Monitor, age also plays a role, particularly when it This story is one in a series of articles based on findings government spending programs, will now go to the President’s desk for his signature. comes to traditional versus newer options in from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ pajamas. Not surprisingly, the nightgown, the tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, bastion of feminine sleepwear for countless decades, each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the grows in importance with each advancing age American consumer and her attitudes and behavior Clarifi cation category. Of women who favored this silhouette, 9% regarding clothing, appearance, fashion, The Marianne mall-based retail nameplate was bought by Urban were in the 16 to 24 age group, 17% were in the 25 fiber selection and many other timely, Brands in 1998 from Petrie Retail Stores Group, and is now a to 34 group, 30% were in the 35 to 55 group and relevant subjects. Latina fashion retail chain based primarily in Puerto Rico. A story on page 14, Jan. 17, omitted information regarding the change in both ownership and retail concept. WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2006 3 WWD.COM Payless Pairs With Abaeté Designer By Jennifer Hirshlag trend continued this week when Target to discuss. launched its Luella collection by British “The idea revolves around taking Laura Poretzky NEW YORK — At least one designer at designer Luella Bartley. emerging designers like Laura who have of Abaeté. the upcoming New York shows is look- “What designers like Jil Sander and a pulse on what is going on for the youth- ing forward to seeing her creations head Stella McCartney have done [through ful consumer today,” said Rubel. “Too straight into the mass market. their partnerships] is an inspiration many young designers who are full of cre- Laura Poretzky, founder and designer because it allows great design to be ativity aren’t supported, and creativity is behind the contemporary sportswear more accessible to the masses,” what inspires consumers today. Laura is brand Abaeté, has united with Payless said Matthew Rubel, who was the clearly an emerging talent in the indus- ShoeSource to develop the Abaeté for chairman of high-end shoe fi rm try and we are doing our part to sup- Payless footwear collection, which Cole Haan for seven years before port that talent and at the same time will step off her catwalk show in the taking on the role of president and bring that new and exciting sensibil- 7th on Sixth tents in Bryant Park next chief executive offi cer of Payless six ity to the country.” Wednesday evening and on to shelves months ago. The 28-year-old Poretzky, a nationwide at the $2.6 billion footwear “When I fi rst came to Payless, Rhode Island School of Design retailer by September. part of the reason I joined the com- graduate and former men’s Poretzky’s partnership with Payless is pany was because I believed the wear designer for Polo Ralph a fi rst for the 50-year-old Topeka, Kan.- broader marketplace was becom- Lauren, said, “This gives me a based shoe company, but simply the most ing more accepting of great design,” The Casey fl at. great opportunity to broaden what recent in a growing list of collaborations said Rubel. “When I looked at what I’m doing. When we got under way, in the accessories arena between mass I could do to make the company more Payless didn’t give me many restrictions.” companies and major designers. exciting, I thought if I could democratize But she added that, because it was the fi rst Yohji Yamamoto kicked off the the best of new design and bring it to the time she designed shoes, it took her many MITRA ROBERT PHOTOS BY trend by joining up with Adidas masses at a great value, we could inspire tries to get the desired proportions. that will retail from $20 to $40. Average for a line of sneakers; Jil new possibilities for the mass market.” Poretzky created the footwear to coor- prices at Payless are less than $14. Payless Sander and Alexander Rubel believed he also could help the dinate with Abaeté’s fall collection, which still hasn’t determined distribution, but McQueen each have high-end market, as well, draws its inspiration from Asian silk- anticipates the Abaeté shoes will appear worked with Puma boosting the cash fl ow for a screening, kimonos and martial arts uni- in a few hundred of the company’s 4,600 on their own col- brand like Abaeté, which forms. The shoe line features four styles: retail stores throughout North, Central lections of athletic has only been in business for the Sky boot, a high-heeled to-the-knee and South America. Metropolitan loca- shoes; last fall, Tara two years and is under the silhouette accented with overstitching on tions will be favored. Once the collection Subkoff of Imitation radar in comparison to, say, the front panel and buckled straps about sells out, it will not be restocked. of Christ created de- Sander or McCartney. Payless the calf; the Casey fl at, featuring over- Rubel hasn’t fi rmed up the marketing signer footwear for will sponsor Poretzky’s show stitching and a tie at the toe; the Oliver plan, but foresees a visual display at the Easy Spirit, and jew- and the designer will get roy- pump, with a cutout side and bow detail front of stores as well as posters announc- eler Solange Azagury- alties from sales of Abaeté at the front, and the T-strap Luke evening ing the collaboration. Print advertisements Partridge designed her for Payless footwear. The sandal. Styles are designed in leather and also might be part of the marketing plan. own line of necklaces, Payless contract with satin, and often feature graphic color con- “We believe this will be a very profi t- rings, earrings and brace- Poretzky lasts through next trasts such as navy paired with violet, as able venture for us,” said Rubel. “It’s lets for fast-fashion retail- January, and has the poten- well as polkadots. going to make us the place to get fun and er H&M. That retailer ear- tial to be renewed, although Rubel said the footwear collection will fashionable footwear at a great value. It’s lier had collaborated with Karl Rubel is interested in adding be developed for mass production, with going to bring us into the world of design, Lagerfeld and Stella McCartney The Oliver pump and on other designers whose the aim of maintaining the look as much not by interpreting the work of others, but on capsule clothing lines, a Luke evening shoe. names he was not yet willing as possible, while having a durable shoe by creating original work of our own.”

The new Luella for Target Tests Higher Price Point With Luella Target collection. By Katherine Bowers black leather, break a new price barrier for Target ap- parel, which had previously set a high of about $100 for BOSTON — Cheap chic discounter Target keeps push- cashmere sweaters and other specialty items. ing the price envelope with apparel that’s more chic, “It’s cute,” David Wolfe, creative director of trend less cheap. forecaster The Doneger Group, said of Bartley’s work. The Luella for Target collection, British designer “The merchandise can certainly stand alone, which Luella Bartley’s mass market debut and the Minneapolis- it has to [do] because I doubt anyone who goes in to based retailer’s fi rst offering in its Go International lim- Target actually knows who Luella Bartley is.” ited-edition apparel program, hit stores Wednesday for a Bartley has had New York runway shows, but re- 90-day run that will last through April. ceives limited coverage from mainstream fashion Six custom racks with built-in mirrors, papered as glossies and tabloids such as Us Weekly. Limited-edi-

if covered in black-and-white airline stickers, held tion programs from design stars Karl Lagerfeld and BOWERS KATHERINE PHOTO BY $24.99 tulip-shaped miniskirts, $39.99 jeans with star Stella McCartney at H&M have been commercial and and plastic cuffs and chunky necklaces as standouts. appliqués and a $149.99 pale blue suede jacket. public relations home runs. Bartley’s offering is well rounded, with dresses, swim, The pricing is Target’s test of its customers’ willingness The Bartley hangtags, featuring a double-decker bus jackets and jeans. It’s particularly heavy on miniskirts, and ability to spend. For similar items, Luella was priced bearing a Target bull’s-eye logo, give a summary of her cropped schoolboy-style jackets and Eighties referenc- 50 to 70 percent higher than the retailer’s Mossimo brand, background, describing her as a former fashion editor es that sometimes might be too literal — as in a black- which had jeans at $22.99 and swim separates at $12.99. with a design aesthetic “like Joey Ramone meets Gidget.” and-white striped shirt with an attached skinny tie to The jackets, available in two colors of suede or distressed Wolfe cited the net handbags, cherry-print clutch be paired with cigarette suspender pants.

round-robin. “He’s a great tennis chief Amy Astley.) As fi rst runner- FLYOVER: It looks like London’s player,” Sanders said. “We had up, Glamour’s team won the gold gain will be Paris’ loss. Anna a great match and a lot of fun.” award, while Lucky took silver Wintour, editor in chief of MEMO PAD They didn’t win, however; Vogue’s and Condé Nast Traveler earned American Vogue, is not expected Tom Florio and Cookie’s Eva Dillon bronze. (Traveler’s publisher, Lisa to attend any runway shows ON THE SAME TEAM: It was a were the tournament champs. Hughes, was 2004’s publisher during Paris Fashion Week Feb. photo fi nish, but in the end it Sanders confessed her tennis of the year, and this year was 26-March 5. A Vogue spokesman was Gina Sanders by a nose. skills are rather rusty: “I hadn’t given the fi rst Integrated Media said Wintour plans to attend the The Teen Vogue publisher was played since Camp Glenmere for Sales Award, a new honor.) The full week of British collections crowned Condé Nast’s publisher Girls in 1970.” winning staffs all will be treated Feb. 14-18, plus Milan after that, of the year for 2005 at a Her ad sales abilities, to parties and receive monetary but that she could not stay away dinner in Miami Tuesday night. of course, are a little more bonuses. Sanders did not know from her offi ce for the duration of Sanders and around 30 of her polished. In addition to securing what her own prize would be, but the international circuit. Wintour colleagues were in town for their the top honor for Sanders, Teen past publishers of the year have is expected to travel to Paris after annual publishers’ meeting, a Vogue’s surge to the top of won lavish vacations abroad. Milan to preview some collections three-day mélange of work, play the teen category in ad pages Elsewhere at Condé Nast, before returning to New York, and schmoozing. Heading in, helped her business team snag Suzanne Grimes, the former however, “it’s not likely that she’ll Sanders and Glamour publisher the platinum Peak Performance Glamour publisher who was be seeing any shows,” he added. Bill Wackermann were named award handed out by Condé Nast dismissed from that job in 2004 As reported, the English editor is by insiders as front-runners for Gina president Chuck Townsend for only to return to the company four attending the London shows to the coveted honor, as reported Sanders overall fi nancial performance. months later as vice president promote British fashion and the Tuesday in WWD (which is a (In her speech after getting her of the Condé Nast Media Group, upcoming “Anglomania” exhibit at unit of Condé Nast). In what was idea of a joke, the two were paired award, Sanders thanked her staff on Wednesday was promoted to the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s either a coincidence or someone’s for Tuesday’s doubles tennis as well as Teen Vogue editor in senior vice president. — J.B. Costume Institute. — Miles Socha 4 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2006 WWD.COM

Donna Karan and Amy Sacco John Currin with Rachel Feinstein. Uma Thurman in Louis Vuitton.

Eighties Night NEW YORK — “I’m Heather Frocklear,” announced photographer Jessica Craig-Martin, who had donned a rather risqué plunging green Versace dress for close friend Yvonne Force Villareal’s 40th birthday bash Ashley Tuesday night. “I photographed Heather Locklear in Olsen in this dress several years ago,” Craig-Martin explained. vintage. But she was more modestly dressed than many, who had taken the evening’s “Dynasty” theme to heart. For her part, Rachel Feinstein wore a dress that deserved to be revived — a baby blue vintage Zandra Rhodes. “I’ve been waiting to wear this for years,” she confi ded. “I got it cheap because no one else wanted it.” Villareal — who herself chose a Donna Karan gown for the occasion — is certainly not one to go down quietly, and so, for her big day, the art consultant and woman-about-town had a party thrown by a committee, including best friends Amy Sacco, Mark Fletcher, Craig-Martin, Feinstein and Lisa Yuskavage. “She is fearless,” said To d d Eberle, while guests gazed upon an image of a pregnant and nude Villareal, one of 722 Eberle had snapped over the past seven years that were playing in a continuous slideshow. “Not once has she ever said no.” While Tara Subkoff spoke of the diffi culties of keeping her hair in Eighties-style angel wings, art-world heavies such as Alex Katz, Jeffrey Deitch, John Currin, Cecily Brown and Jeanne Greenberg Rohatyn mixed with social fi xtures Amanda Brooks and Gigi Mortimer in the Stephan Weiss Studio, which Donna Karan had lent to her friend for the evening. Villareal’s latest discovery, Ryan Bingham — a cowboy singer from Marfa, Tex., on his very fi rst trip to New York — serenaded the crowd. Uma Thurman was happy to rock out on the dance fl oor with David Kuhn while her boyfriend André Balazs caught up with Karan, but others were ready for bed. Peter Bacanovic, still recovering from a trip to Los Angeles, begged his friend: “Please take me home.” Yvonne Uptown, Ashley Olsen stopped into Bergdorf Goodman’s fi fth fl oor to check Force out the latest spring frocks at a party for What Goes Around Comes Around, her Villareal beloved downtown vintage store, while a few blocks away, Gaynor Rupert, Russell in Donna Simmons and artist Harold Riley hosted a dinner at Rockefeller Center to benefi t Karan. Imibala, an organization devoted to helping the underprivileged in South Africa. Star wattage was added to the otherwise low-key event, which was underwritten by Cartier, with the arrival of Catherine Zeta-Jones and Michael Douglas, close friends of Rupert’s. She was able to lure them from Los Angeles specifi cally for the event, but Michael Douglas and only for a few days — they’ll be jetting back before fashion week’s frenzy ensues. “I’ve Catherine Zeta-Jones in got to go see my babies,” Zeta-Jones said sweetly. Escada and Cartier.

make the movie and fail but at least do it my way,” she explains. After that, casting Judd came naturally (with the help of A-list SOUTHERN COMFORT producers, including Julie Yorn). “I did want to use Southern actors, PARK CITY, Utah — Most people know Joey Lauren Adams especially for the lead, and it just felt right with Ashley,” she says. as the raspy-voiced ingenue who stole Ben Affl eck’s heart in Indeed, even though Judd wears Blue Cult jeans, Michael Stars “Chasing Amy” nine years ago. But since then, the actress, 35, tank tops, Frye boots and minimal makeup throughout the fi lm, has been working steadily on endeavors both on- and off-camera. it’s hard to take your eyes off of her. The casual dress code is a She’ll appear next in the Jennifer Aniston-Vince Vaughn welcome respite for most actresses, but Adams, dressed for her comedy “The Break Up,” and only last week her screenwriting interview in a Kelly green cableknit sweater, jeans and fi ngerless and directing debut, “Come Early Morning,” premiered as part gloves, relished that privilege during the fi lm’s fi ve-week shoot. of the dramatic fi lm competition at Sundance. “For me, doing the hair and makeup and wardrobe is sort The subtle, beautifully produced fi lm centers around the of stifl ing. It was so great to go to set and not ever worry about commitment-phobic Lucille (Ashley Judd) and the demons appearance,” she says. Instead, the self-admitted “control freak” she battles while dealing with everyday small-town life. focused on channeling her experience in front of the camera The fi lm, shot in Adams’ hometown of North Little Rock, into directing her stars, who also included Diane Ladd and Tim Ark., was “emotionally autobiographical, though none of the Blake Nelson. “Having acted for 17 years, I knew the language on events actually happened,” Adams says. Locations included the set. It’s an energy that I don’t think any amount of fi lm school her favorite places, such as her neighborhood bar and her can teach you,” she says. While Adams admitted that part of the grandmother’s house. attention on her fi lm may stem from her pre-existing fame, she “I wanted it to be true to my experience growing up, an adds, “It’s not a bad thing; I don’t think the two can be separate.” honest portrayal, because most Southern fi lms I see tend to And she’s still not immune to the stress that any fi lmmaker stereotype,” she says. goes through. “At fi rst you get caught up in the reviews and When she began the script six years ago, she intended to star whether or not the movie sells and that’s such an awful place to in the fi lm, but quickly realized it would be diffi cult to relinquish be,” says Adams. “I just got back to that place where I’m proud control to another fi lmmaker. “I knew if I were on set with some of the movie and whatever happens, happens. My job is done, director and he were to say, ‘Why don’t you say one of those funny but the story goes on.” country sayings?’ that it would be hell, so I would rather try to — Marcy Medina VILLAREAL PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; OLSEN BY PATRICK MCMULLAN; ADAMS BY GEORGE PIMENTAL/WIREIMAGE MCMULLAN; ADAMS BY PATRICK STEVE EICHNER; VILLAREALOLSEN BY PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2006 5 WWD.COM Bush Lauds Benefi ts of Global Trade By Kristi Ellis the National Council of Textile — and that is clearly still a con- which he never does, he recog- 2 million jobs, primarily in the Organizations, said: “The cern for us,” said Julia Hughes, nizes a full trade agenda is part government sector. The manu- WASHINGTON — President President is acknowledging that vice president of international of a successful economic agen- facturing sector has lost 2.8 mil- Bush’s warning against protec- trade is a very diffi cult topic [in trade at the U.S. Association of da and we need to compete by lion jobs in the fi ve years since tionism and effort to spotlight an election year], particularly Importers of Textiles & Apparel. knocking barriers down abroad Bush took offi ce. the benefi ts of global trade in when the public doesn’t see the “But I do think from our per- rather than erecting barriers at “I think the performance the State of the Union address benefi ts and China is a big part spective this was probably as home,” Lamar said. of the economy generally over boosted importers seeking an of that…because they play by a positive a speech for the State Another pillar of Bush’s the last couple of years has ambitious trade agenda and dis- different set of rules and that of the Union as one would have agenda is economic strength been very strong,” said Carl appointed U.S. textile executives makes people angry.” hoped to see.” and job growth, and he touted Steidtmann, an economist with pummeled by globalization. Importers came away from Stephen Lamar, senior vice the creation of 4.6 million new Deloitte Research. “In the fi rst In laying out his domestic the speech with the feeling that president of the American jobs in the last two and one half half of his term, the economy agenda — scaled down from the President is in their corner. Apparel & Footwear Association, years, “more than Japan and the was in the 2000-2001 recession, previous years — Bush spoke “Obviously, the reality will said Bush set up the “dynamic European Union combined.” and as you go into recessions job Tuesday night about strength- be in what the administration between protectionism and iso- Job growth has been less ro- losses pick up and even as you ening American competitive- does substantively in all of the lationism versus opening mar- bust, however, if measured from come out of recessions the econ- ness and job growth, as well as various arenas where we are kets around the world. the inception of his presidency omy continues to shed jobs…but making his tax cuts permanent in trade negotiations — Doha “What I read into it was that in January 2001. From that we’ve seen job growth start to and initiatives for energy, health and free trade agreement talks without delving into specifi cs, point, the economy has added come back.” care, immigration and medical liability reform. Facing a trade defi cit that may reach $800 bil- lion this year, the president cautioned against taking a more protectionist stance against growing economic superpowers such as China and India. “In a dynamic world econo- my, we are seeing new competi- tors, like China and India, and this creates uncertainty, which makes it easier to feed people’s fears,” Bush said. “So we’re see- ing some old temptations return. Protectionists want to escape competition, pretending that we can keep our high standard of living while walling off our economy.” He did not direct his remarks toward specifi c trade issues and legislation, but they weren’t made in a vacuum. Political pressure to restrain China’s growth and force further curren- cy revaluation may gain strength in advance of the midterm elec- tions in November, especially if the economy weakens. China’s surge in apparel and textile exports to the U.S. this year resulted in an import re- straint agreement between the two countries that restricts more than $6 billion worth of Chinese apparel and textile imports and runs through 2008. The deal pleased domestic manufactur- ers who charged that they were being forced to unfairly compete with China, and brought certain- ty to importers’ sourcing plans. The administration is also leading the charge to reach a global trade treaty by the end of the year among 149 countries of the World Trade Organization, who are seeking to reduce and eliminate tariffs on thousands of products. The industry is di- vided over the current round of global trade talks, particularly on the issues of a formula to cut tariffs on textiles and apparel, the scope of special treatment for Least Developed Countries and developing countries, and whether WTO members will agree to a separate textile pact. “On trade, [Bush] obviously staked out a pattern that we don’t expect him to change dra- matically from and that is an aggressive pursuit of the Doha round and proliferation of free trade agreements,” said Auggie Tantillo, executive director of the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition. “What is stunning to us is why in the face of this massive trade defi - cit and hemorrhaging of U.S. manufacturing jobs there isn’t some questioning of current U.S. trade policy.” Cass Johnson, president of 6 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2006

LA DENIM ATELIER Origin: United States Owners: Paul and Maurice Marciano Designer: Jason Ferro eanealogy Launched: Men’s, 2005; women’s, 2006 Wholesale prices: NEW YORK — Always on the hunt for the $78 to $113 next big thing in denim, WWD rounds up the Where to fi nd it: Atrium, New York; freshest crop of hot topics. Selfridges, London; Fred Segal, Los Angeles This season’s looks: White denim J boot-cut jeans, dark vintage washes, embroidery and leather trim. FYI: Formerly a designer at Guess Jeans, Ferro’s expertise lies in back-pocket darts, interior embroidered MADAMIMADAM waistbands and Origin: United States leather rivets. Owner/Designer: Michael Abbey Launched: 2005 Wholesale prices: $77 to $85 Where to fi nd it: Hillary Rush, Los Angeles; Madison, Los Angeles This season’s looks: Skinny legs with an emphasis on subtle details, such as vintage fabrics inside the waistbands. FYI: Before starting Madamimadam, Abbey produced collections for Levi’s, Earl Jean, Joie and Three Dots.

BRAMM Origin: Italy Launched: 2005 Owners: Heleyne and Ronnie Tamir Designer: Heleyne Tamir Wholesale: $110 Where to fi nd it: Milk, Los Angeles; Cantaloup, New York This season’s looks: Signature fl ap-pocket jeans and skinny white jeans. ▼

TOUGHJEANSMITH Origin: China Owners: George and Winnie Wong Designer: George Wong Launched: 1995 Wholesale prices: $42 to $62 Where to fi nd it: Dungarees, Studio City, Calif.; Lounge, New York; Riccardi, Boston This season’s look: Slightly slouchy. FYI: Wong’s line features unusual pulls, contrast fabrics, silk linings and strategic wire inserts. WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2006 7 WWD.COM

AOKI FRIED DENIM Origin: United States Origin: United States Owner/Designer: Starr Owners/Designers: Jack Saadia, Dailey-Webb Oni Faks and Salim Alfaks Launched: 2002 Launched: 2005 Wholesale prices: $77 Wholesale prices: $25 to $30 to $140 Where to Find It: Epic, New York; Where to fi nd it: Madison, Dr. Jay’s, New York; Shiekh, Los Angeles; Rush, Los Angeles New York This season’s looks: Luxe This season’s looks: Sexy embellishment and shapes including a unique washes. 17-inch miniskirt, FYI: Before launching Fried, Bermuda and the design team produced cut-off shorts. collections for South Pole, FYI: Aoki means “green Sir Benny Miles and tree” in Japanese, and the Weatherproof. company uses preservative- free, organic cotton.

JET LAG Origin: Germany Owner/Designer: Yoshi Cohen Launched: 1992 Wholesale prices: $75 to $109 Where to fi nd it: H. Lorenzo, Los Angeles; E Street Denim, Chicago; Atrium, New York This season’s looks: Straight-leg jeans in distressed fi nishes. FYI: Cohen has been designing denim in Europe since 1985. His signature resin-coated denim gives jeans a worn-in look. ▼

ENVENISTE/CELESTINE AGENCY; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY AND MELISSA MAGSAYSAY KIM FRIDAY STYLED BY ENVENISTE/CELESTINE AGENCY; ▼ B.UNITED Origin: United States Designer/Owner: Daniella Clarke Launched: 2005 Wholesale prices: $69 to $98 Where to fi nd it: Madison, Los Angeles; Pittsburgh Jeans, Pittsburgh This season’s looks: Gauchos, as well as skinny jeans and fi ve-pocket classics in dark washes. FYI: As the founder of Frankie B., Clarke strives to give women a friendlier fi t, without the bells and whistles. PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO AND DONATO SARDELLA; MODELS: OLGA/Q MODELS AND HASMIK/NEXT; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY CHICO/JUMP AND ALEXIS B HAIR AND MAKEUP BY SARDELLA; MODELS: OLGA/Q MODELS AND HASMIK/NEXT; CENTENO AND DONATO TALAYA PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2006 WWD.COM

Blue Star Jeffrey Goes for Diesel Power Denim Dish Diesel has partnered with Jeffrey Kalinsky to launch an exclusive denim line for the Jeffrey New York boutique. “We basically put together a little package of Two in the Works for Jordache denim that is exclusive for our store for both men Jordache Enterprises is adding two denim lines to its and women,” said Kalinsky. roster. Diesel and Kalinsky spent nine months devel- Blue Star, a junior collection, will hit stores in May, oping the two styles, one for women’s and one for and Legacy, a women’s and men’s collection for consum- men’s, that were in keeping with the typical Jeffrey ers ages 25 and older, will begin retailing in August. Both New York customer. The result is the Lowky-J for lines are targeting department stores for distribution, women, a straight-leg, low-rise fi ve-pocket style of specifi cally Federated Department Stores units. jeans available in a medium and dark-blue wash. Blue Star will retail between $50 and $80. “It’s really For men, Kalinsky and Diesel have developed the better juniors,” said Liz Berlinger, presi- Zavor-J, also a straight-leg, low-rise fi ve-pocket dent of Jordache Enterprises. The fi rst de- Legacy pair of jeans but in a dark wash. Clean fi nishes are livery will include 10 styles, such as skim- prominent features of both, with no rips, whisker- mers, Bermuda shorts, capris and gauchos. ing or other distressing applied. The jeans will re- Denim vests and cropped jackets will round which are really trend-right right now,” tail for $225. out the mix. Berlinger said. Kalinsky described An advertising campaign featuring ac- The company is searching for the face of the process of develop- tress Brittany Murphy will hit fashion Legacy for the print and TV ad campaign ing the line with Diesel glossies in May. Jordache has owned the set to air in late August and hit the pages of as “completely collab- Blue Star brand for 10 years, but shelved September magazines. Berlinger wouldn’t orative,” and one he the brand a few years ago to focus on devel- name anyone specifi cally, but said the ads hopes to repeat. oping its private label business, which rep- will feature someone “in her 40s.” “We had huge resents 40 percent of the company’s total Berlinger hinted a Brat Pack reunion input on what the volume. Now, Berlinger said, the junior could be a possibility, referencing the well- product was, down category can benefi t from Blue Star. known group of Eighties actors and actress- to the color of the The Lowky-J. “Blue Star is about trend-right fi ts and es including, among others, Demi Moore, stitching and the trend-right fabrics,” she said. “We really Ally Sheedy and Rob Lowe. Nevertheless, kind of label it will feel like we can bring the premium look to Berlinger said the campaign “will get peo- have,” he said. the better juniors category.” ple’s attention.” The project Berlinger anticipates the wholesale vol- Berlinger expects Legacy’s prices will be is also a first for ume of the Blue Star collection will reach appealing to consumers who’ve tired of shop- Diesel, which has $10 million in its fi rst year. ping in the premium realm. collaborated be- Legacy, according to Berlinger, is a way “The denim industry is now saturated fore but has never for the company to return to its roots. with people who don’t know how to make entered into a “We were one of the creators of the sta- jeans,” she said. “It’s about the quality. I co-branded line tus denim market,” she said, adding that Jordache was think there’s an opportunity at this price point because with a retailer. among the fi rst fashion denim brands to be recognized the higher echelon in denim has lost sight of what they Diesel’s signa- by their back-pocket logo. stood for. They’re not giving value. Not everyone wears ture fl ag will oc- Legacy, which will retail between $80 and $100, will those jeans and pays that price.” cupy the right come in a curvy and a straight, leaner silhouette, but — Lauren DeCarlo pocket and the both will feature different styling attributes such as vari- hangtag will ous yoke placements and different sized waistbands. Five read “Diesel for styles are available: a straight leg, fl ared, slouchy, and Jeffrey.” two boot-leg cuts all using Japanese or Italian denim. Kalinsky said his inspiration came, naturally, “We really have used our expertise to engineer [these from one of his favorite pairs of Diesel jeans. jeans],” said Berlinger, who envisions Legacy hanging “I had this one style of Diesel jeans that I loved with the likes of Lucky Brand Jeans and Mavi Jeans. She and wore all the time,” he said. “I really wanted to expects the wholesale volume of Legacy to reach $20 do something with Diesel.” million in its fi rst year. The jeans have yet to hit shelves, but Kalinsky “We’re really playing off the heritage part of the said they should be available soon. brand and using dark, black denim and clean fi nishes, — Ross Tucker

A look from Miss Sixty’s new In the U.S., there are 12 Miss Sixty stores and the line is collection. available at 500 points of sale, including Bloomingdale’s, Saks Miss Sixty Gears Up for New York Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, Urban Outfi tters and Macy’s, and Wichy Hassan doesn’t underestimate the importance of Miss specialty retailers such as Riccardi in Boston, Patricia Field Sixty’s runway show tonight in New York — his fi rst show ever. in New York and Fred Segal in Los Angeles. This year, the com- “It’s scary,” said Hassan, the company’s creative director, in pany will open stores in Honolulu; Dallas; San Francisco; Las an interview at its design hub in Rome, while giving an exclu- Vegas; Austin, Tex., and San Fernando, Calif. sive preview of the fall collection. “We went into retailing fi ve years ago, which allows us to Miss Sixty’s show will be held at Capitale, a former bank in get to the fi nal customer more easily,” said Renato Rossi, chief a Twenties building in SoHo, and will be followed by a party. executive offi cer of Sixty SpA. Actress Asia Argento, Hassan’s muse and Miss Sixty spokes- There are more than 200 Miss Sixty stores and 7,000 mul- woman, will do double duty, walking the runway with the fi nal tibrand points of sale in the world. The group, which is based look and playing DJ at the party. in Chieti in central Italy, reported sales “I didn’t feel ready for a show before, Wichy of 650 million euros, or $798.6 million, in but now we have a new level of maturity Hassan 2005, up from 600 million euros, or $737.2 and I believe there is a new awareness of million, the previous year. The Miss Sixty the brand,” said Hassan, who pointed to brand accounts for 37 percent of total the importance of the U.S. market, which group sales. last year accounted for $50 million in reve- “We want to consolidate our business nues, making up 8 percent of overall sales. in the next three years and reach sales of “The U.S., together with Japan and 1 billion euros [$1.2 billion],” said Rossi. China, are markets that are giving us Among the highlights for the fall sea- strong and encouraging signals,” he said. son are a new category of evening looks, The expansion of the brand is backed with dark denim, sequined puff dresses by an investment of 20 million euros, or or capes embellished with fake-fur de- $24.5 million, to open six Miss Sixty stores tails. There’s an Audrey Hepburn-meets- in the U.S. and 30 around the world in punk look that mixes Fifties little black cities such as Lisbon; Shanghai; Osaka, dresses with black-and-red checkered Japan; Dubai; St. Petersburg; Prague, and jackets. Military looks have been revisit- Seville, Spain. ed with a feminine touch, such as slim cargo pants and aviation Hassan added that New York refl ects the cosmopolitan cus- jackets lined with vivid butterfl y prints. tomer he has in mind, with the city’s “clash of cultures and In June, Miss Sixty will open its fi rst hotel in the beach- mentalities, races and histories.” side town of Riccione, Italy, on the Adriatic Coast. The new Hassan insists that Miss Sixty should be an artisanal collec- venture has Hassan considering expanding with a home col- tion, with looks that seem “put together by the customer herself,” lection. Other existing licenses include Marcolin for eyewear, mixing swatches and accessories from old jeans with new ones. Coccinelle for handbags, Morellato for jewelry and Coty- The American customer is a true connoisseur, as well, he added. Lancaster for fragrance. “Americans always surprise me,” he said. “They want more re- “Licenses are aimed at adding value to the brand,” said fi ned things, never banal or basic, [and are] looking for the more Rossi. “It’s not quantity we are interested in — we seek new recherché and more expensive items, which is a strong stimulus partners to help us grow the brand.” and a challenge for us.” — Luisa Zargani MISS SIXTY PHOTOS BY KHEPRI STUDIO MISS SIXTY PHOTOS BY

10 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2006 WWD.COM The Beat Scandinavian Fashion Heats Up Berlin

By Melissa Drier take on France for the fi rst time this year. Founder and designer Filippa Knutsson, showing at Premium, said next fall is BERLIN — A dressier sportswear look moved to the fore here this season, as about “the contrast between feminine and masculine, strict and casual, shiny and contemporary fashion makers generated more buzz and captured more bucks matte. It’s a well-dressed look, but with a sexy vibe, though we’re very sensitive at the recent Premium and Bread & Butter fairs. to vulgarity, which we stay away from. We’re more into timelessness and value Scandinavian brands were particularly strong, refl ecting several years of for money.” gradual market penetration, as well as a general sea change in the young After three years on the German market, “we can fi nally say things are fashion scene. Active-infl uenced streetwear looks have slowed down, and going well,” said Karen Warburg, German agent for the Danish collection retailers and manufacturers say premium denim is beginning to lose Baum und Pferdgarten. some of its luster, opening the way for a contemporary fashion splash. “Retailers see how easy [the collection] is to integrate without having “The Italians and the Germans are a bit too junior right now when it to open a Scandinavian shop,” Warburg said. “And interest in Scandinavia comes to sportswear,” said Sam Ben-Avraham, owner of Atrium, a spe- has continuously grown because they offer an emotional type of fashion cialty boutique in New York, who added he’s opting instead for dressier that reaches many people.” European looks. “The Scandinavian look, on the other hand, is more She said everyone bought playful looks, such as an acid yellow and nat- mature, but with a bit of a twist when it comes to small details. It’s all ural jacquard cardigan over a petrol and cream polkadot silk ruffl e-edged very subtle.” blouse and a blue striped fl ared skirt with a pieced hem, or a puff-sleeved, Manuela Fassbender, founder of MBF Trend Consulting in New back-pleated coat with a polkadot lining. York, said, “I defi nitely think we’re going toward a more dressed-up Both Premium and Bread & Butter were also strong platforms for situation. Milk & Honey [the women’s show-within-a-show at Bread & young Berlin designers. There were more group stands than ever and Butter] has pulled together big time. That was the core for me at Bread scores of individual presentations. The Eighties remain an important & Butter this season, especially the Scandinavian collections and all stylistic starting point, with designers then reworking and reconstruct- the details they’re using.” ing iconic shapes such as blousons, bat-winged sleeves and wrap jersey Vibeke Kemner, who designs and runs Mille K with her husband, dresses. Morten, said, “Business has been very good. There’s a real focus on Meike Vollmar of Macqua was seen writing page-long orders at Milk & Denmark and Copenhagen and you can feel it.” Honey for boutiques in Japan; Antwerp, Belgium, and Germany for her Exhibiting at Milk & Honey for the second time, Kemner said cus- blouson tops in pure angora jersey or mohair. But for her, the inspiration tomers were buying “small, feminine, underwear-infl uenced tops and was less “Flashdance” and more Joan of Arc. knitwear and lots of silk chiffon and dresses, and many are asking for “There’s a medieval element and it’s a little warlike,” Vollmar said. “But the basic jackets and pants to wear with all the fancy tops.” Macqua concept is always a mix of masculine-feminine.” Noa Noa, a Danish brand at Milk & Honey, already has 300 customers in Bread & Butter, which ended its three-day run on Sunday, attracted 30,500 Germany, but also was seeing retailers from Turkey, Italy, Russia and Poland trade visitors, up from 26,000 last summer but below the show’s high point of at the fair. A study in subtle contrasts, Noa Noa played with Edwardian touches 40,000 prior to the launch of the Barcelona edition last year. Foreign participa- taken from museum pieces, but also used slightly dandy, masculine looks. A tion rose, with 44 percent of visitors coming from outside of Germany. typical mix: wide-legged pants in a soft handled tweed with a beaded ribbon belt Premium, which ran for three days and ended on Tuesday, broke attendance over a beaded sweater, a printed fl oral wool bolero and a striped wool muffl er. records with 17,000 buyers shopping both the Station and Tunnel venues. About While people tend to talk of “Scandinavian fashion,” Swedish brands tend to 60 percent came from abroad. take a less embellished fashion approach than the Danes. According to Premium co-founders Norbert Tillmann and Anita Bachelin, Filippa K is a prime example. Known for easy-to-wear urban fashion with Premium and the newly founded Berlin Fashion Week will run parallel to a contemporary edge, the Stockholm-based brand just opened its fi rst store in Bread & Butter next season. Bread & Butter has scheduled the next Berlin Berlin, with Munich to follow in two weeks. German sales continu- show for July 14-16, but even if these dates change, the Premium ously have doubled in the last four years, and the collection, which Filippa K, a Stockholm-based brand, team said, “Premium will be held at the same time as B&B, no now generates 50 percent of its volume outside of Scandinavia, will will enter doors in France this year. matter what.” Sells Like Teen Spirit Réyes of Light LOS ANGELES — Typical high school seniors are either wait- NEW YORK — A quick glimpse at José Ramón Reyes’ ing for college acceptance responses or pondering prom. résumé reveals some of the most notable names in A pair of enterprising teens, Sonny Ruscha Bjornson, the industry — he had internships at Chanel and 17, and Cyrus Zackariah Shepherd-Oppenheim, 18, is con- Helmut Lang under his belt before landing a position sidering such matters, but they have something else going at Richard Tyler. on. The duo has plunged into fashion retailing with the Reyes wasn’t working on their design teams — he was launch of Cyrus & Sonny in a tent Saturday night outside overseeing marketing and press and, at Richard Tyler, of Ghetto Gloss, a shop-cum-gallery in Silver Lake, Calif. served as the public relations manager. Today, though, A high-energy crowd of more than 800, including Reyes the designer will show his fall collection at the Shepherd-Oppenheim’s mother, actress Cybil Shepherd, National Arts Club in Gramercy Park. singer-songwriter Jason Mraz and family friend Lauren “I think I was very infl uenced by all of those people Hutton watched as teenage models from five Los I worked with,” said Reyes, who at age 32 is embarking Angeles-area high schools strutted down the runway in on his second season as a designer. “My collection is a the line’s reconstructed vintage blazers and T-shirts ap- mix of all of those sensibilities: the minimalistic move- pliquéd with guns, Chinese propaganda symbols, mock TYLER BOYE PHOTO BY ment I saw at Helmut Lang in the mid-Nineties, the Bjornson and Shepherd- TURNER DAVID PHOTOS BY slogans and representations of wildlife. Prim vintage Oppenheim amid models. beautiful embellishments at Chanel and the tailoring Shearling coat with fox collar dresses were cropped to micro minis. of Richard Tyler. It was invaluable. I’ve always wanted and wool and cashmere trim. “We like that clash of Beverly Hills-meets-Hollywood grunge,” said Shepherd- to be a designer.” Oppenheim. “These clothes are all about the L.A. high school scene of good, rich Réyes, the collection, is about sophistication and accessibility. For Reyes, that kids gone bad.” means girl-meets-boy, in a preppy, sexy way. Margot Tenenbaum, from the 2001 cult “It’s totally contemporary, funny and superfun,” said Ghetto Gloss’ owner, who classic “The Royal Tenenbaums,” is a source of inspiration for goes by the name Fiora. Chiffon Reyes, a native of the Dominican Republic. Eighteen years ago, when she was 17, the proprietor launched her own signature cocktail “It’s not exactly preppy,” he said. “But it is about those prep- line, so she identifi ed with the designers’ efforts and took their talent seriously. dress by py ideas, like seersucker, khaki pants, great shorts and piping. “The turnout was a killer surprise,” she said. Réyes. But I design for a girl of my generation. She’s a literal girl who “When we use our creative minds together, it’s good,” said Bjornson of working has a lot of refi nement to her.” with her boyfriend of a year-and-a-half. The fall collection consists of 40 pieces, including wool The couple credits their passion to experiment and shake up the status quo to growing skinny trousers, T-shirts, fl irty cocktail dresses, tops and out- up under the creative infl uences of their parents. Bjornson’s father is the Los Angeles- erwear. Wholesale prices range from about $80 for a T-shirt to based Pop artist Ed Ruscha, who was in Europe and unable to attend the show. $1,000 for a coat. Dresses wholesale for $300 to $500. Fabrics “From the graphics on the shirts to the music in this show, we don’t want to tone for the season include wool rib jersey, cashmere felt, silk vel- it down,” said Shepherd-Oppenheim. “The world is what it is and we don’t want to vet and silk taffeta and furs such as blue fox and raccoon. misrepresent it by creating another Abercrombie & Fitch.” The collection is available at stores such as Intermix in The pair combed yard sales and thrift stores for cool imagery and castoffs. New York, Premium 93 in Dallas, Hillary Rush in Los Angeles, Together with Shepherd-Oppenheim’s twin sister, Ariel, and friend Daniel Beau in San Francisco, Vermillion in Raleigh, N.C., and Isetan Lisberger, the foursome collaborated on the design and production of the line, in Tokyo. Reyes ultimately wants to open his own store. which for now consists mainly of silk-screened one-offs. The line ranges from T- “I think that’s where the future is,” he said. “I think it’s shirts that retail for $15 to blazers and dresses that sell for $300. the way to build a brand because you can show the whole One enthusiastic attendee was Hutton, who hurried backstage to try on the look. That way, you don’t have to deal with others and issues wares as soon as the show ended. like chargebacks.” “I am amazed because these are clothes I’d wear,” said Hutton, who bought Product expansion is also on the horizon, as the de- $2,000 in merchandise. “They’ve been recycled and made better by kids who have signer noted he’d like to eventually launch accessories really got it…and I am going to introduce them to the people at Armani.” and men’s wear. He’s expecting the wholesale volume Cyrus & Sonny will retail at Fred Segal Street in Santa Monica, Calif., and of Réyes to reach an amount in the “high six fi gures” Sweet Charity and EM & Co. in Los Angeles. by the end of 2006. — Martine Bury — Lauren DeCarlo

12 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2006

Active Lifestye Putting on Final Touches for the Games

TURIN READIES FOR ACTION the stores to buy Italian products,” said De Carlo. “I expect this new energy to con- tinue beyond the Olympics.” By Alessandra Ilari Maritè Costa, owner of Caffè Cioccolateria Al Bicerin, a history-soaked bar founded in 1783, can’t wait for the Olympics to start. While designers in Milan get ready for the upcoming fall shows, the focus here is “We’re more than ready,” Costa said. “The buzz is getting louder and already I all on winter. have seen more Americans.” Two weeks before the 20th Olympic Winter Games kick off here, a fair amount With its original squeaky parquet fl oors, wood boiserie and wall lamps, the cafe of drilling, digging and sandblasting still echoed through the city’s baroque and has attracted high-profi le intellectuals such as Alexandre Dumas, Giacomo Puccini neoclassical squares. Though it still seems impossible for the construction sites to and Nietzsche. Today, as in years past, people come to sip a glass of bicerin, a bev- disappear in time for the opening extravaganza on Feb. 10, when some 2 billion TV erage made with a layer of coffee, one of chocolate and one of frothy milk. viewers will watch 2,500 athletes representing 80 nations parade around the reno- “It’s best to drink it sugarless to feel each layer distinctly,” advised Costa. vated Stadio Olimpico, Turin’s citizens seem confi dent enough. Over at Il Posto, a trendy minimal chic bar behind Piazza San Carlo, manager And designers are pitching in as much as they can. Giorgio Armani, Moschino, Danilo Sorgente is still on standby. Roberto Cavalli and others all have designed outfi ts for the Games, while Armani “We’re not sure what to expect, but we’re ready to greet tourists and athletes,” will attend the opening cer- said Sorgente. “Already, there’s a very international feel to the city and emonies (see sidebar). I’m sure people visiting won’t be let down.” While many tickets still Evelina Christillin, Il Posto specializes in happy hour with freshly baked miniature pizza, remain, as of Tuesday, there deputy president of the quiches and focaccia served were 690,000 tickets sold, organizing committee with anything from Bellinis for Turin 2006. Al Bicerin raking in about $71 million. owner Maritè to nonalcoholic cocktails According to most retailers, Costa is ready made with fresh fruit. the city already is bustling for the Games. Roberto Trapani, an with tourists, especially owner of the Vertice fashion Americans, who are snap- store in the heart of Turin, ping up Italian products. describes the city as a “beau- “People have been in- tiful woman getting a make- credibly receptive, showing over to go out at night.” a very positive attitude and It’s an especially long lots of goodwill,” said Evelina city, if you ask the Turinese, Christillin, deputy president who, for the past eight of Toroc, the organizing com- years, have grappled with mittee for Turin 2006 that chaotic traffi c and construction sites. was founded in 1999. “Turin But by the same token, the city and will be a much more interna- Shoppers are its quaint surroundings will reap the tional city now.” already fl ocking benefi ts of an investment in excess of Giorgina Siviero, owner to stores like $3.6 billion between public funds and of two sprawling fashion Vertice in Turin. private sponsors. stores, one for men and The master plan, for which one for women, called San Christillin and her team have been Carlo 1973, is ebullient working around the clock, was to ex- about the city’s cleanup tend Italy’s treasures — art, history, and consequential upturn culture, fashion and food — beyond in business. ski slopes and medals. Alba, for ex- “I expect at least a 50 ample, known for its world-class truf- percent increase in sales fl es, is 45 minutes away from Turin. in February,” Siviero said. “Turin is not Rome, Florence “I have implemented the or Venice, cities that are used to staff so that there will be constant flows of tourists,” said 120 people serving and the Christillin. “We wanted to take ad- stores will be open from 10 vantage of it and the experience has a.m. to midnight. Turin is been enthusiastic.” cleaner, renovated and, let’s Christillin expects to come in on face it, much more beauti- budget. ful. There’s a very festive Clad in brown corduroys and a atmosphere, which makes it worth the trouble.” deep green turtleneck that matches She cited Prada, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana as the hot-selling brands. her eyes, Christillin has been dubbed “Torino’s blonde.” “Americans, especially, want Italian brands,” she said. The spunky former Olympic skier is married to Gabriele Galateri, chairman of The store has arranged for special night events, such as one where customers Mediobanca, Italy’s leading merchant bank, and admits to having faced quite a few can choose a custom-made fragrance by perfume maker Laura Tonatto. challenges as a woman making the calls. Paolo De Carlo, the owner of the De Carlo housewares stores that carry brands “It’s a miracle that I got everything done, but I have wide shoulders,” she said. such as Alessi, Kartell, Christofl e and Venini, also is seeing a sales boost. “I would like for these Olympics to leave a sign the same way I was touched by the “I’m very pleased with the medium-to-high level of tourists that are coming into ones in Grenoble when my dad took me at 11.”

SWATCH UNVEILS OLYMPIC STYLES FESTI BRINGS SPIRIT OF ITALY TO OPENING CEREMONY The new fi ve-piece Swatch Olympic Collection was inspired by the Compressing 2,000 years of Italian history while simulta- Games’ stylized logo that combines Turin’s famed Mole Antonelliana neously promoting the present day and succinctly articu- building and the fi ve Olympic rings. lating the Olympic spirit is no easy task, especially in 20- The Swatch collection is primarily azure and red, the symbolic col- degree weather. But that’s exactly what the directors at the ors of Turihn 2006, but includes hues used in the logo from the modern creative agency Studio Festi are out to do for the opening Olympic Games for the fi ve rings: yellow, green, black, blue and red. ceremonies of the Winter Games in Turin on Feb. 10. The Technical Scale style has a dark blue crown, sky azure and snow Located in the small Lombardy town of Velate, Studio white plastic bracelet. The white component evokes the elevation of the Festi has the daunting charge of not only directing the Mole Antonelliana and the mountains. Another style displays a bracelet Olympics’ opener but also outdoing the elaborate pro- embellished with shiny steel stars and crystal rings. Swatch is an offi cial ductions of past ceremonies. sponsor of the Olympics. “We had three years to work on our homework,” said The watches were launched last month and are available at all Valerio Festi, who, along with his staff, will guide some authorized retailers and at the Olympics Superstore in Turin. The 6,500 volunteers for the 90-minute spectacle. “We want 17,000-square-foot store set up in central Piazza Vittorio carries all the show to bring back the idea of the Renaissance.” Turin 2006 offi cial products, including clothing produced by Asics, It’s an Olympic requisite that the opening ceremonies gadgets such as key chains and pins, Caffarel chocolate, Kodak fi lm convey athletic strength, human ability and world unity to and Omega watches. millions of people worldwide, but the opener also has to be A rendering of what’s coming in the opening ceremony. — L.Z. individual to its host country. So while there will be 230-foot- Two looks from the new high moving Olympic rings and hockey players speeding down the stadium with six-foot red Swatch Olympic Collection. fl ames fl owing from their helmets, there also will be a celebration of Italian art and style. “Italy is full of strong contradictions, but we really know how to live well,” Festi said. “We have a culture that knows how to see beauty and sense beauty, even in the most basic elements. It’s a sentiment of how to live well and that’s the story we want to tell.” — Courtney Colavita TURIN PHOTOS BY DAVE YODER DAVE TURIN PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 200613 WWD.COM

OLYMPICS GIVING TURIN IMAGE MAKEOVER

By Luisa Zargani Turin’s most forward thinkers — a group of enlightened young entrepreneurs, artists and politicians — are working to shake the city’s dusty image. Through the Olympics, they want to send a message around the globe that Turin is as culturally vibrant as any other Italian site, a hub of contemporary art, attractive to tourists, with its combination of Roman, Baroque, and 19th and 20th century architecture. “Turin’s image is directly connected to car manufacturing [it’s the long-time headquarters of Fiat] and blue collars, but this no longer refl ects a much more complex and humming reality,” said Licia Mattioli, a jewelry designer and one of the Olympics’ “ambassadors” charged with the task of pro- moting the area’s entrepreneurial and creative activity. After all, Turin was Italy’s fi rst state capital in the late 1800s, a political and cultural point of reference in Europe. This is the city in which 20th century Arte Povera artists Ermanno such as Michelangelo Pistoletto, Giovanni Anselmo and Scervino Mario and Marisa Merz chose to live and work, and a sort of designed Italian Hollywood that launched the history of Italian cin- these looks ematography. for the It hosts one of the most important Egyptian museums in Russian the world, which was doubled in size for the Olympics, and Olympic the National Mountain Museum, dedicated to the mountain team. environment, entirely restored for the occasion. Its iconic monument, the 19th century Mole Antonelliana, which A NEW RUNWAY FOR ITALIAN DESIGNERS stands 551 feet high, is Europe’s tallest brick building with a unique structural design. It’s no secret Italians like to glide down the slopes As a result of the Olympics, recent investment in the area looking like chic and trendy snow bunnies. And has increased by 3 billion euros, or $3.6 billion, and by a total for the upcoming Winter Games, Italian designers of around 7.5 billion euros, or $9 billion, over the past eight have been readying looks for athletes that main- years, which Turin put to good use, restoring museums and tain the status of Italian style. buildings, creating a much-desired subway, underground park- Oscar-winning costume designer Gabriella ing spaces, moving the railway line that used to cut the city in Pescucci, for starters, channeled her talent from half under ground, and generally improving traffi c fl ow. Hollywood to Turin by designing 6,000 costumes and 5,500 pairs of shoes for Italian athletes and per- A view of the renovated Stadio Olimpico. formers to wear at the Feb. 10 opening ceremony. Giorgio Armani, who will be in Turin that night, is outfi tting 30 athletes and the commentators for NBC. He also reworked an Armani Privè dress with Swarovski crystals in representation of Moschino glittering ice for the woman — sources indi- is outfi tting cate it will be Carla Bruni — who will sym- the placard bolically assist in the raising of the Italian bearers in fl ag during the opening ceremony along with this ornate Carlo Azeglio Ciampi, Italy’s president. ▼ look. Moschino, meanwhile, created the costumes for the placard bearers. Drawing from Turin’s alpine surround- ings, the brand’s creative director, Rossella Jardini, designed 89 outfi ts crafted by 10 seamstresses who spent “The Olympics are a starting point, not the arrival for 15 hours hand-attaching representa- us,” said Paolo Verri, director of Torino Internazionale and tions of 500 miniature pine trees, 10 the Olympics’ Strategic Plan. “Our city has paid the price skiers and 30 lighted chalets onto each of an identity crisis, but our ambition is to be considered skirt. Each garment required 10 me- once again an international city, to attract students from all ters (almost 11 yards) of silk duch- Carolina over the world and become a tourist city, no longer only a esse satin and was completed with a Kostner in business city.” Zarina-style bolero in fur-trimmed Cavalli. “This is a great opportunity for us and the Olympics will bouclé wool. fi nally help us be known around the world,” said Patrizia Roberto Cavalli has glided Sandretto, founder of Fondazione Sandretto Re Baudengo, from the runway to the skat- “I accepted because this was a one of the city’s main museums dedicated to contemporary ing ring by dressing Carolina new and stimulating experience art, along with Castello di Rivoli’s museum and GAM, the Kostner, Italy’s leading fi g- for me, but then I discovered city’s gallery of modern and contemporary art. ure skater, for her perfor- that Carolina is an explo- In honor of the Olympics, for the fi rst time the three mu- mances. sion of youth, elegance seums have joined forces to create T-Turin Triennial Three, The 18-year-old bru- and will,” said Cavalli. Italy’s new festival of international contemporary visual art. nette will execute her “We now have a very As part of the event, 75 young international artists are pre- triple axels in Cavalli special relationship.” senting their experimental work in seven different museums designs that include After the Olympics, spaced around the city and there are also solo shows of two a shimmering black Kostner will auction off midcareer artists: Takashi Murakami and Doris Salcedo. number with sheer insets, the dress so that proceeds A group of some of the world’s best architects helped especially conceived to fi t the will go to an Onlus (charitable) fast-forward the look of the city, adding supermodern de- choreography to Vivaldi’s “Four Seasons.” organization that supports families with signs and state-of-the-art facilities. The city has worked with sick children. architects including Gae Aulenti for the restoration of the Gabriella Ermanno Scervino, best known for his outerwear, Palavela, which will host short-track and fi gure skating; with Pescucci designed the uniforms for Russia’s Olympic team for Arata Isozaki for the new Palahockey, dubbed “PalaIsozaki,” designed the opening ceremony and other activities. and with Frank Gehry and Steven Holl, among others, for the these looks “This has been an excellent opportunity to new THP, the city’s Turin Health Park. for the create modern outfi ts for the athletes in an age In addition, architect Massimilano Fuksas helped develop opening in which sport and fashion are enjoying a grow- regional offi ce buildings, Sergio Pininfarina designed the ceremony. ing mutual relationship,” said Scervino. “The aerodynamic Olympic torch, Benedetto Camerana created international status of the Olympics has made the red steel arch that is expected to become the city’s new it very important for us to be there representing symbol and Renzo Piano restored Fiat’s former manufac- Italian design.” turing building, Lingotto, into a multifunctional center that The collection’s high point is the couture-in- includes an auditorium, offi ces, shops, movie theaters and spired quilted jacket made in the Russian team’s the Scrigno, a suspended structure hosting the Giovanni and national colors — red and white — which is hood- Marella Agnelli Painting Gallery. ed, fur-trimmed and cinched at the waist. It was In order to lodge the International Olympics Committee, manufactured with an innovative nylon fabric Piano designed two hotels under the Meridien banner, with and with a special tape that eliminates tradition- a tropical garden and high-tech, innovative design. al stitching, the company said. “Turin will continue to benefi t from the Olympics-related — A.I. improvements and facilities in the long term,” said Verri. 14 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2006 WWD.COM

Michael Bertrand Bloomberg Stalla- Bourdillon Fashion Scoops PALACE PALS: It seems American designers just can’t get enough of Palais Royal. Marc Jacobs just opened his fi rst freestanding Paris boutique in the picturesque and historic arcade last week, and Rick Owens is arriving soon, WWD has learned. Due to open in early April, the Owens shop will feature his women’s, men’s, denim, jersey and accessory lines. The design and concept of the 2,400-square-foot store will be done by Owens, who

PHOTOS BY DOUG GOODMAN PHOTOS BY last year launched a line of limited- edition furniture.

IN FULL VIEW: Seven For All Mankind is co-opting fashion avenue just in Brands Unite in Anticounterfeiting Drive time for Olympus Fashion Week. Weather permitting, the premium Continued from page one The problem has become pervasive, and counterfeit goods can denim brand will unveil a 74-foot- Barneys New York, BCBG Max Azria, Cartier, Celine, Chopard, be found in every category, the panelists stressed. high, 47-foot-wide billboard that David Yurman, DKNY, Dolce & Gabbana, Donna Karan “The counterfeit problem is not only luxury goods. They are will wrap around a corner building International, Gucci, Jimmy Choo, Judith Ripka, La Perla, Marina the visible part of the iceberg,” said Bertrand Stalla-Bourdillon, on 42nd Street and Seventh Avenue Rinaldi, Max Mara, Missoni, Ralph Lauren, Stuart Weitzman, Via general manager of Louis Vuitton and president of its Berluti on Friday. The billboard features a Spiga and Yves Saint Laurent. Sixty retailers in all are currently subsidiary. street sign for the intersection at signed on for the program. LVMH Moët Hennessey Louis Vuitton has placed a focus on Times Square. However, the sign The initiative partners the retailers and the New York City Police landlord initiatives, similar to those undertaken by the Mayor’s has been altered to read “7 For Foundation with the Madison Avenue Business Improvement District Offi ce of Midtown Enforcement, through its recently publicized All Mankind Ave.” The billboard’s and Harper’s Bazaar. The program was unveiled at the second an- Landlord Program. Under the program, LVMH has shifted its legal design is the work of Alex Sum, nual Harper’s Bazaar Anticounterfeiting Summit 2006, held here on tactics in order to go after the landlords of the buildings that house who joined the company in January Wednesday at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, sponsored by Harper’s counterfeiting activities, rather than simply individual street ven- to take on the position of vice Bazaar in partnership with the Kirkland Ellis law fi rm. dors. Stalla-Bourdillon said the program has been important for president of creative branding and March 14-28, the shops along Madison Avenue between 57th the luxury company in its worldwide efforts. advertising. It’s the fi rst in a series and 86th Streets will feature items with a blue theme, the color Under the program, LVMH two weeks ago won a permanent in- of projects aimed at highlighting the of the NYPD. From the sales of the blue-themed merchan- junction against a group of Canal Street landlords it alleged owned company’s expansion into the men’s dise, 10 percent of revenues will be donated to the NYC Police properties where counterfeiting activities were said to be taking and women’s contemporary markets. Foundation to support a variety of programs, which includes an- place. The billboard will be on display ticounterfeiting efforts in the city. One effort of the NYC Police throughout February. Foundation is undercover operations that assist in the arrest of counterfeiters. REMEMBERING KAL: Fashion week “If we permit large-scale criminal enterprise to keep operating The counterfeit problem is not only will kick off with a very poignant in the middle of Manhattan, what kind of message does that send?” “ reminder that the industry just lost Bloomberg said. “Trademark counterfeiting robs legitimate busi- luxury goods. They are the visible part one of its greatest stars. Fern Mallis, nesses of their customers.” of the iceberg. executive director of 7th on Sixth, Bloomberg’s administration has brought attention to bear and Kenneth Cole have chosen to on the issue of counterfeit goods in New York. The Mayor’s ” team up to honor Kal Ruttenstein, Offi ce of Midtown Enforcement has focused on vendors in the — Bertrand Stalla-Bourdillon, Louis Vuitton Bloomingdale’s late senior vice Garment District, an area that earned the nickname Counterfeit president of fashion direction. The Alley, by targeting landlords as well as peddlers of counterfeit Cole show, which kicks off fashion goods. “Prioritization of this issue is a key part of the answer,” said week on Friday, will have an empty “We take their merchandise, we take their buildings and we Chris Israel, international intellectual property enforcement co- front-row seat reserved in memory of take them to court,” Bloomberg said. ordinator at the U.S. Department of Commerce. Israel is the fi rst Ruttenstein, who died in December. To date, the Mayor’s Office of Midtown Enforcement has person to hold this title. He was appointed in 2005 by President seized $48 million in counterfeit goods since December 2003, and Bush to coordinate and leverage resources in the federal govern- THE THREE FACES OF AMANDA: $800,000 in damages have been collected from landlords whose ment to protect U.S. intellectual property. In its latest move to bridge the buildings have housed counterfeit operations. Approximately 14 Counterfeiting is an increasing problem for every industry gap between pool and dry land, buildings in Counterfeit Alley were shut down, and some have — from fashion to pharmaceuticals — and government offi cials Speedo is poised to launch an ad been rehabilitated. One was turned into a hotel, the other into a admit it’s diffi cult to pinpoint the true scale of the problem. The campaign in mid-March featuring fl ower market, the mayor said. chief of Interpol, Ronald K. Noble, said at a counterfeiting confer- 24-year-old Amanda Beard, the The city is also currently in the process of working with apparel ence in Geneva last November that transnational criminal gangs seven-time Olympic medalist and manufacturers to donate goods seized in counterfeit raids to Gulf “not only manipulate counterfeit and pirated goods to maximize fashion model. The effort, designed Coast residents, Bloomberg said. illicit profi ts, but also trade in many other dangerous illicit com- to buff Speedo’s image as a brand “Mayor Bloomberg, the New York Police Department and [po- modities.” for land as well as water, will rotate lice] Commissioner [Raymond] Kelly have really gone beyond Noble said the protection of intellectual property rights “must three different images of Beard in the call of duty [in the fi ght against counterfeits],” said Frederick be given a higher priority by policy makers in government, inter- mainstream and indie magazines Mostert, past president of International Trademark Association. national organizations and law enforcement agencies.” as well as online and in outdoor Counterfeits have become a problem of staggering proportions, Rita Hayes, deputy director general of the World Intellectual media. With billings estimated and some estimates put the market close to $500 billion globally, Property Organization, said, “While we are still far away from a around $6 million, the advertising said Valerie Salembier, senior vice president and publisher of major breakthrough in the fi ght against the global problem…there push is aimed at attracting trendy Harper’s Bazaar, and the chair of the board of trustees of the NYC are already important signs for a change in perception and politi- twentysomethings to activewear Police Foundation. cal determination, and readiness for action.” under Speedo’s Axcelerate label as well as to the brand’s swimwear, noted Neil Kraft, president of KraftWorks, the ad agency and fashion specialist leading the effort. New Name for BCBG Max Azria Collection The campaign is slated to run through June. NEW YORK — The brand formerly known as BCBG Max Azria Max Azria Collection retails between $300 and $2,000 and is Photographed by Michael Collection will now be called Max Azria Collection. available at stores such as Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue Thompson, the ads will bow in the The name change is effective with the fall collection to be and Bloomingdale’s, in addition to 25 select BCBG Max Azria April editions of such titles as Elle, shown Monday during fashion week here and exemplifi es the boutiques in the U.S., including one slated to open here in May Self, Lucky, W, Nylon, Surface and company’s new strategy of evolving the collection to a higher on Fifth Avenue in the Flatiron District. There are more than Ocean Drive; on billboards in Los level. 200 BCBG Max Azria stores in the U.S. Angeles, Miami and New York, plus “I have been evolving my runway collection over the years and BCBG Max Azria is the company’s commercial contemporary outdoor media typical of New York’s today it has truly become a separate entity from my more com- line. The retail price range is between $150 and $600. BCBG Max urban environs, including phone mercial BCBG Max Azria line,’’ Max Azria, designer and chief Azria is available at Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom, in addition to kiosks, taxi toppers, construction executive offi cer of BCBG Max Azria, said in a statement. “With freestanding boutiques. wraparounds and random postings. signifi cantly higher price points, this line is very exclusive and al- Max Azria Atelier is a collection of made-to-order gowns de- The Speedo spots also will appear lows me to be much more creative with design. Offi cially changing signed for celebrity clients and red-carpet events. Prices for the online at Gawker, Daily Candy and the name represents a signifi cant and exciting step for us in the collection range from $10,000 to $50,000. style.com. process of the line’s evolution.” — Lauren DeCarlo sit pretty

MAGIC has more qualified buyers and crossover business opportunities than any other single event in the fashion industry.

Your moment is here. Don’t miss it. February 21-24, 2006 Tuesday thru Friday www.MAGIConline.com 16 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2006 WWD.COM Is it fall again already? It certainly is for the fashion industry, and fall fashions this year are offering a color palette mixed with neutrals and rich, dark TheWWDList tones. Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of Pantone Color Institute, said of the top 10: “We’re seeing a return of colors that are more trustworthy, more dependable. There’s a great deal of elegance, and a sophisticated subtlety.” A number of the colors offer a smoky overcast, such as number-one-ranked Bijou Blue, while others, such as the neutral tones, could be seen paired with richer colors — like Purple Magic, ranked number four. Eiseman also pointed out the Fashion’s Foliage trend of colors evolving from seasons past. Take spring’s number-one color, Sand Dollar, as an example. Already considered a neutral color, it has morphed Top Pantone colors chosen by New York designers for fall 2006. into Pale Khaki, even into Simply Taupe, for fall. — Cecily Hall

PANTONE 18-3921 BIJOU BLUE Chosen by 20.1 percent of designers Zac Posen chose prominent colors, such as Bijou Blue, for fall. “There is nothing sexier and more real than navy and jet,” he told Pantone. His in- spiration for the season was to view his girl as a “perfectionist rebel,” so he chose colors that “evoke her fi erce and moody side, as well as her classic luxury.” Leatrice Eiseman of Pantone noted the color paired well against others in the palette, such as Frost Gray. “Bijou Blue is a continuation of 1 spring’s Ultramarine,” she said. “It’s so fl attering for everyone — people with all types of [skin] coloring can wear it.”

PANTONE 17-0000 FROST GRAY 16.3 percent “The prominence of Frost Gray refl ects the dependability of the neutrals,” said Eiseman. “Grays have been around, they rarely go out of fashion, they’re so stable — but to have it ranked so highly tells us that it’s stability people are looking for in their wardrobe.” Though there is a practical element to the color, it has almost a silver characteristic. “These gunmetal gowns we’re seeing on the red carpet — they’re glamorous.” Eiseman 2 mentioned the shade’s ability to be paired well with Purple Magic and Red Mahogany, both of which are ranked in the top 10. Peter Som, who used Frost Gray, mentioned his color philosophy was “a graphic but feminine combination of colors, which are sleek without being overpowering.”

PANTONE 17-1537 MINERAL RED 13.9 percent While red wasn’t used much for spring, it’s making a nice comeback this fall. “Red is certainly not unusual to see in the fall — this is a very warm- based tone,” said Eiseman. “It has that kind of wonderful quality that attracts people — it’s something that gives us warmth, yet it still has an elegance.” She also noted the color can be used across multiple areas of clothing, from sportswear to eveningwear, for example. Nanette Lepore chose 3 Mineral Red for fall, acknowledging her inspiration was the “salons of Edwardian England.”

PANTONE 19-3540 PURPLE MAGIC 12.4 percent Various shades of purple have been prominent for several seasons now, and this fall’s variation is very deep, but still has a touch of a red under- tone, said Eiseman. “This has a magical quality, just as the name suggests,” she said. The color could go ideally with chiffon or taffeta, but it also has been seen in knitwear. “I think there’s this general acceptance for the color purple nowadays. There’s a quietness to purple — and this is an 4 elegant, regal kind of purple that is widely accepted.” Both Michael Vollbracht for Bill Blass and Gilles Mendel for J.Mendel incorporated versions of Purple Magic into their dresses for fall.

PANTONE 19-1521 RED MAHOGANY 11.6 percent “Red Mahogany is essentially a brown with red undertones — but there’s a wine overcast to it, because it has this plummy, red characteristic,” said Eiseman. Brown has long been a staple for fall, but these days, designers and consumers are viewing it as a dressier color. “For years, brown was 5 never worn after fi ve, but nowadays, it’s in gowns on the red carpet.” Behnaz Sarafpour, whose inspiration was derived from “all things traditional,” worked with a color palette of rich, deep tones — including Red Mahogany — for fall.

PANTONE 17-1045 APPLE CINNAMON 10.9 percent The description of this color stems from a shade of tea, noted Eiseman: “It’s a warm, comforting color.” Apple Cinnamon is also a tone that can be used as a classic or a neutral. “Think about it in combination with colors like Golden Ochre or Mineral Red,” she continued. Kimora Lee Simmons for Baby Phat chose Apple Cinnamon as part of her palette for the season. She told Pantone she was inspired by the elegance and panache of 20th- 6 century red-carpet glamour. “Expect to see vamped-up suits, dresses, prints and fabrics, where retro glam meets hip-hop royalty,” she hinted.

PANTONE 17-0613 VETIVER 6.2 percent Nicole Miller chose Vetiver as part of her palette for fall, attributing her inspiration to Byzantine plates. The name Vetiver is a play on the French word for green, vert. Said Eiseman, “This is the green that I felt is not the green in the khaki sense, this has more of a gray cast to it, which makes it 7 so classic and so subtle.” Because the shade contains a gray cast, she described the color as having a “smoky” quality, like others in the top 10. “This color can be used in leather goods and jackets, but also in some of the wools we’re seeing that have that deep, resonating quality to them,” she said.

PANTONE 16-1346 GOLDEN OCHRE 4.7 percent “This variation of orange is one of the most elegant I’ve seen,” said Eiseman. “Orange is not generally one of America’s favorite colors. But it really started to show itself in the Nineties and has continued to gain acceptance ever since.” Eiseman attributed much of that acceptance to a broader use 8 of multicultural mixes of colors, haute couture embracing the tone and because of the introduction of orange into computers, such as the iMac. She also said that, for fall, designers will incorporate the color more into tweeds and wool designs, where it can be used in combination with other hues. Wunderkind designer Wolfgang Joop wanted his prominent colors to refl ect muted earth tones, thus bringing Golden Ochre into his fall designs.

PANTONE 16-0906 SIMPLY TAUPE 2.3 percent This color, said Eiseman, can be used when you really just need that one reliable shade that can be paired with deeper tones. “It’s truly one of the most basic of the neutral colors that is a reliable presence in the wardrobe,” she said. “But it can stand alone, as well.” Simply Taupe was used by 9 Laura Poretzky, designer for Abaeté. Her inspiration stemmed from warm tones combined with black in furniture made by Bugatti.

PANTONE 15-1216 PALE KHAKI 1.6 percent “Pale Khaki, Vetiver and Bijou Blue is a stunning combination,” said Eiseman. “Again, Pale Khaki is a wonderful shade that’s totally reliable. When used in combination with richer colors, it’s elegant but not overdone.” Akiko Ogawa’s color philosophy stemmed from “graduations of gray and gold.” 10 The designer told Pantone, “For fall, I wanted my colors to be highly nuanced and evoke a classical, refi ned ambience.”

PANTONE FASHION COLOR REPORT FALL 2006; PANTONE COLORS DISPLAYED HERE MAY NOT MATCH PANTONE®-IDENTIFIED SOLID COLOR STANDARDS; CONSULT CURRENT PANTONE FOR FASHION AND HOME COLOR SYSTEM® PUBLICATIONS FOR ACCURATE COLOR. PANTONE® AND OTHER PANTONE INC. TRADEMARKS ARE THE PROPERTY OF PANTONE INC. © PANTONE INC., 2006 JEWELRY W

THE WEIGHT OF DESIRE

The only consumer magazine dedicated to the spectacular world of fine jewelry and watches.

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For advertising information contact Jennifer Moccia, Associate Publisher, Jewelry W, at 212.630.4940 18 WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2006 WWD.COM Revlon to Cut 2.5% of Staff in Reorganization

By Molly Prior has agreed to extend Revlon Consumer Products Corp.’s existing $87 million cred- NEW YORK — To keep pace with its it line until the completion of the beauty cranked up innovation pipeline and trim fi rm’s equity issuance. costs, Revlon plans to reorganize its mar- Revlon stated it intends to seek an amend- keting group in a move that will eliminate ment to its bank credit agreement to main- 2.5 percent of its global workforce. tain “fi nancial fl exibility throughout 2006.” The company said Wednesday that it will consolidate its marketing operations, which include creative and brand groups and customer marketing — previously con- MAC’s Take on Fashion Week sidered a sales function. NEW YORK — MAC Cosmetics plans to The newly integrated marketing group kick off Olympus Fashion Week by bringing will be co-led by the company’s executive a new spin to the apparel concept — cre- vice president and chief marketing offi cer, ating fashion not out of fabric, but out of Stephanie Klein Peponis, and Rochelle makeup and glitter alone. Udell, executive vice president and chief Sketches from Vivienne Tam, Heatherette and Zac Posen to be re-created by MAC makeup artists. The Estée Lauder division, the offi cial creative offi cer for Revlon. makeup sponsor for the New York shows, Revlon president and chief executive offi cer Jack Stahl said the realignment will allow plans MAC Chinese Dress, an event this evening at Eyebeam that celebrates both the the fi rm to be more nimble in responding to trends and in bringing products to the market, heritage of Chinese fashion and the brand’s rapidly accelerating business in China. while furthering the company’s objective of “achieving long-term, profi table growth.” About 50 MAC makeup artists will spend upward of eight hours applying body paint The company expects to take a $10 million charge related to severance and addi- to a lineup of 14 nude male and female models. The fi nished product will portray tra- tional expenses, which will primarily impact Revlon’s fi rst quarter results. The fi rm ex- ditional Chinese dress created from hundreds of MAC products and several thousand pects the cost-cutting effort to generate $15 million, most of which will benefi t 2006. Swarovski crystals. The bulk of the 165 job cuts, which include 90 U.S. employees, “It’s a way of respecting Chinese fashion and culture using make- will come from the company’s marketing, sales and North American up,” said Peter Lichtenthal, MAC’s newly installed general manager. fi nance functions, said a company spokeswoman, who added that “When we launched in Shanghai, we did a similar event which was the cuts do not include any senior leadership positions. BEAUTY BEAT very well received. We’re doing a version here because the concept The realignment is designed to speed decision making across is all about color and makeup and clothing, and MAC’s ability to uti- its businesses, which currently include cosmetics, beauty tools, hair care and its newly lize cosmetics in a creative and artistic way. It’s a perfect way to kick off fashion week.” created prestige fragrance division. Revlon, a company deeply entrenched in the mass In fact, noted James Gager, the brand’s creative director, each market has the ability market, announced last week that it will launch a prestige fragrance in department to customize the event to their needs. The Shanghai event included custom headdresses stores this summer, with more fragrance brands planned. by couturier Stephen Jones, and designs from Oscar-winning art director/cinematogra- Revlon also backed its fi nancial forecast for 2005 and 2006. The company expects pher/costume designer Tim Yip. The New York event will include designs created by adjusted earnings for 2005 to total $170 million, and full-year sales to increase nearly Zac Posen, Vivienne Tam and Heatherette, and MAC is already planning a different 3 percent to $1.33 billion, up from $1.29 billion in 2004. version for its opening at the Paragon shopping center in Thailand next Wednesday. For The fi rm reiterated plans to conduct a $110 million rights offering that would allow that event, three prominent Thai designers will create looks. stockholders to purchase additional shares of Revlon Class A common stock. The company “For MAC, this event celebrates the pure artistry of body painting as well as the ar- expects to complete the offering by March 2006, and to use the proceeds to reduce debt. ticulation of makeup and fashion as an art form,” said Gager. “The Chinese Dress event Revlon also plans to conduct a $75 million equity issuance through an underwrit- is a perfect showcase for MAC and what MAC stands for, Makeup Art Cosmetics.” ten public offering by June 30. MacAndrews & Forbes, Revlon’s parent company, — Julie Naughton ‘Destination’ Shopping for Pregnant Women NEW YORK — Destination Maternity, which opened private label, brands such as Streets of L.A., Hippie and Wednesday at 575 Madison Avenue on the corner of 57th Blue 2 can be found at the store. Street here, is like a theme park for pregnant women. Most everything at Destination Maternity is geared Described as the world’s largest maternity store by to the expectant mother. There are, however, a few parent company Mothers Work, the 10,000-square-foot, things for baby, including a gleaming Silver Cross, the three-level fl agship brings together three retail concepts Rolls-Royce of baby carriages, which sits in the gift under the same roof: A Pea in the Pod, Mimi Maternity area with a $3,000 price tag. Other items include CEO and Motherhood Maternity. — chief executive offspring — bibs, Pee-Pee Tee Pees Destination Maternity wants to be the last word in (to protect you from danger when changing boys) and fashion and wellness for expectant mothers. The preg- onesies with sayings such as, “I am a boob man.” nancy superstore features a spa called Edamame on the The Motherhood line in the back of the store is the lower level, a kiddie corral play area, a learning cash cow of the company. Matthias pointed out that studio offering yoga classes and belly dancing Motherhood has about 1,000 locations, while Mimi has instruction, a juice bar and a place where men 150 and Pea in the Pod, 40. Motherhood clothes are cut can watch a large-screen plasma TV while fuller for a woman who doesn’t want to show off her their signifi cant others are shopping. belly. Prices for Motherhood are the lowest of the three Throughout the opening day, the store of- brands, starting at $19. Mimi’s prices range from $29 to PHOTOS BY KEITH SMITH PHOTOS BY fered demonstrations, book signings, classes A Silver Cross carriage and other gifts for $185, while Pea in the Pod starts at $125. and raffl es, sometimes six an hour. There baby. Inset: Rebecca Matthias. Destination Maternity wants to be more than a store, was breast-feeding 101, an Avent baby bottle it wants to be a social hub. “People sign up for a class demonstration and Jackie Barret, a psychic, lion was primarily driven by its Oh Baby and become part of a group, a support group or group was doing belly readings. by Motherhood licensed arrangement with of new friends,” said Matthias. The learning studio About 4,000 customers had visited the store Kohl’s, and the expansion of its Two Hearts runs classes from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. on most days. In ad- by 5 p.m. A spokeswoman said sales exceeded the Maternity collection for Sears. Meanwhile, com- dition to movement, there’s breathing and visualiza- company’s goal by 200 percent. parable-store sales fell 2.5 percent. tion, and child safety instruction. “The concept evolved out of the customer’s needs,” said Matthias sees the Destination Maternity superstores The wellness area stocks everything from Ensure Rebecca Matthias, president of Mothers Work. “Nobody as an answer to Mothers Works’ ailing retail business. Healthy Mom Bars to Yogi teas to a variety of lotions else is strictly in the business of maternity. We have one “These multibrand stores are larger and have higher av- and gels to prevent stretch marks. There’s a line of Mimi customer and we fi nd ways to keep serving her better.” erage sales volume than our average store, and provide Maternity creams, Mama Mio Tummy Rub and Mustela’s Matthias is fond of saying that she sells to “virtually the opportunity to lower our store operating expense per- skin care products. There is a juice bar as well as a nearby every pregnant woman in America,” or 2.7 million cus- centage and improve store operating profi t margins over big-screen plasma TV. tomers a year. “It takes three brands and this space and time,” Matthias told stockholders last year. Just outside the dressing rooms a play area with assortment,” she added. “This is the supreme model.” The portal to the fl agship leads to a mini gallery for Legos and a TV airing cartoons is strategically placed The new fl agship, which is the 10th Destination rotating exhibits. For the opening, the company secured so women can try on clothes and keep an eye on their Maternity store in the U.S., is the only location to offer bronze maquettes and prints sketched by British sculptor kids. There’s also a nursing department with bras, all three apparel brands along with a full complement Henry Moore. All explore the theme of mother and child. sleepwear, pillows and stockings. of services. Three other stores have spas and most have Amid the hushed tones on the lower level, the sound Matthias, who started the company with a mail order Pea in the Pod departments, which feature designers of a water wall can be heard at the Edamame spa, catalogue in 1982, said she’s always looking at prod- such as Diane von Furstenberg, Tocca, Lilly Pulitzer, which specializes in treatments for pregnant women. A uct extensions. The company is offering Futuretrust Juicy Couture and Joe’s Jeans. signpost leading to the second level gives the names of MasterCard, which is linked to a college savings program. Matthias said the company closed 10 stores in the major Manhattan hospitals and other landmarks. Rebates are automatically contributed to a tax-advan- New York area in anticipation of the fl agship’s open- At the top of the landing is Mimi Maternity, the contem- taged 529 college savings plan. ing. She expects to recapture the business at 575 porary collection, which is undergoing a repositioning. “Moms need to save for their new baby’s educa- Madison Avenue and estimated the store could do The company is updating the store design and giving the tion,” Matthias explained. “We’re going to be offering $1,000 a square foot in sales. fashion a tweak. At the fl agship, peasant blouses, tiered other fi nancial products like mortgages.” The fi rm’s 8.4 percent sales gain last year to $561.6 mil- skirts and cargo pants abounded. In addition to the Mimi — Sharon Edelson WWD, THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2006 19

RETAIL Prod. Development Assistant Womens Apparel company seeking ACCT EXEC experienced, detail oriented person to Fast paced Spec Occasion Dress Mfgr assist with all aspects of product devel- seeks a high energy and motivated opment. Must be able to handle Junior Retail Chain individual to fill an immediate opening. Costing and understand garment Allen B. / A.B.S. Computer Skills preferred. Send resume construction as it relates to costing. and salary history in confidence to Must have good communication and Trendy By Allen Schwartz [email protected] computer skills. Junior Admin Since 1967 Please fax resume to 212-382-2421 Attn: Susan Knit Top Account Executive W-I-N-S-T-O-N Allen B., a leader in contemporary/couture jeans, and APPAREL STAFFING Buyer 5th & 38th st. SUBLET 5,000 ft. DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Product Development/ casual lifestyle clothing has an incredible opportunity High ceilings - Excellent Condition ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION Sourcing Qualifications: for an account executive with a strong sales ability to Prime Manhattan RE Scott 212-268-8043 (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Search www.manhattanrealty.com VFIntimates, LP, a division of VF Corp, •Minimum 5 years Junior Buying exp. CAD Design ...... $40-60k drive sales and build businesses. This person should For Space in Garment Center the world’s largest apparel company, •Ability to identify trends 2-3 yrs exp using Ned Graphics has an immediate opening in our have established relationships with high end Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 Sourcing Department. •Fashion forward vision [email protected] •Excellent sense of style contemporary/designer specialty and department 212-880-0414 The successful candidate will be responsible for tracking all preproduc- •Addional assets stores. All replies kept confidential. Showrooms & Lofts tion activities for new style and recolor •Sourcing BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS product for the Business Brands with •Private Label Experience Email: [email protected] Great ’New’ Office Space Avail both internal and external contacts ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Design Assistant regarding status of sales, fit, TOP Both International and Domestic Leading children’s wear manufacturer samples, materials, color develop- ment, etc. Must possess strong All applicants with strong junior buying seeks highly motivated/detailed indi- experience will be considered vidual for mid tier boys division to communication skills - written and Sales Executive oral, strong computer skills - Excel and CHILDREN’S WEAR assist in all aspects of design through MISSY/CONTEMPORARY production. Illustrator a must. Access, min 2 years exp in Sourcing We Offer: Sales Executive related or product development field LOUNGEWEAR/SLEEPWEAR CO. Please fax or email resume to: •Excellent Salary and Benefit Package Prestigious European Children’s Seeking a high-energy Sales Executive Attn: Rachel strongly preferred. Must have "sense SHOWROOM TO SHARE of urgency", ability to prioritize tasks, •Bonus Opportunity Wear Company is looking w/strong relationships w/Dept. Stores and (212) 967-8108/[email protected] mid-tier accounts. We offer a great work Luxury Fur retailer looking to share be detail oriented and work within a •Growth Potential for enthusiastic and motivated Showroom. Prime Manhattan Location team environment. environment, opportunity for growth, Call Norman at: (212) 563-9019 Design Assistant Sales Executive, with excellent and an excellent compensation package Email resume w/ salary requirements We are conveniently located 15 minutes &benefits. Please E-mail resumes in Major daytime/sportswear co. seeks from Midtown Manhattan. sales and follow-up skills. motivated design assist. Detailed to: [email protected]. For Computer literate & experience confidence to: [email protected] sketching and knowledge of fabric government record keeping purposes, market req’d. Fax to: (212) 869-1953 you may choose to identify your Send resume in confidence to: a must. GREAT BENEFITS! race, ethnicity, and/or gender when Cheryl O’Reilly, HR Dept. Email resume at: responding. SALES EXECUTIVE DESIGNER Joyce Leslie, Inc. [email protected] Well est’d. Leather & Suede Mfr. seeks Girls Sportswear seeks an experienced VF Corp. is an EOE employer. team player w/strong sales & long-term Little Girls Designer to head up the 4-6x 135 W. Commercial Avenue goals to fit into our Sales Team. Must category. The individual must be creative, Moonachie, NJ 07074 have 2-3 yrs. exp., be extremely aggres- self motivated, well organized, familiar Production Assistant Email: [email protected] sive, motivated, and hard working, and with young, sweet silhouettes and art for Fast paced designer womenswear Great Opportunity! have a great personality. Service Spe- mass retailer. Must be familiar with manufacturer seeks production assistant. Fax: 877-253-5060 Young and growing better sportswear cialty Stores & work Regional Markets. patterns, garment construction, cost Candidate will issue cutting tickets, & suits company based on 525 7th Ave. Fax all resumes to: 212-358-0031 restrictions and willing to travel. communicate and follow up w/domestic seeks ambitious Salesperson for spe- Please Fax: 212-465-1085 cutting rooms and factories to ensure cialty & small chain stores. Salary + timely deliveries. Must be multi tasked. Commission. Please send resume to: DESIGNER-KIDS & JR. DENIM Bilingual Cantonese or Mandarin a plus. SALES ASSIST $35K FAX: (212) 643-1289 Seeking creative & trendy designer Please fax resume to 212-868-8885. Bet Sprtswr, Comm & Excel Skills S A L E S with exp in all phases of design. Must [email protected] 212-947-3400 Fast Growing Ladies Junior Jeanswear- be strong w/ Emb design. Illustrator & Co. seeking Sales person w/ establishedw/ Photoshop required. Email resume to: Richard Leeds International contacts, specialty & dept. stores nation [email protected] Production Assistant wide. Must have strong relationship Fast paced womenswear manufacturer Intimate Apparel accts, organized, & hard working. Please Designer - Sweaters seeks production asst to prepare tech Branded & Private Label sleepwear / Fax or Email resume: 212-629-3506 packages to factories and to cost SALES ASSISTANT daywear / loungewear co seeks seas- [email protected] (Freelance Position) garments. Must be very thorough and oned AE to manage and grow mass & detail oriented. Must have min 1 yr Growing NYC Young Men’s/Boys’ Branded For ladies’ private label mfr. Must be &Private Label Co. has an opportunity mid-tier accts. Ideal candidate will exp’d and have technical knowledge to import exp and be computer literate. have 3+ yrs intimate apparel exp. Fax resume to 212-302-3318. for an exp’d., motivated, and organized develop product lines for major retailers. Sales Asst. to join our team. Domestic Merchandising skills are necessary. Fax resume to Joann H: 917.510.9778 travel req’d. Great work environment Competitive compensation pkg. Send & benefits. Fax resume to V.P. of Sales : resume to: [email protected] Design/Knitwear Asst PRODUCTION ASST (212) 869-8892 Republic Clothing seeks asst w/ min 3 Ladies domestic and import dress mfg. yrs sweater bkground. Must be organ- seeks exp. person with costing knowl- ized, have excellent flat sketching edge, cutting room and contractor skills w/ knowledge of Photoshop & scheduling . Fax Res. to: 212-986-0581 PATTERN/SAMPLES Illustrator. Responsibilities: specs, Samplemaker $700-750 Wk fitting, sourcing & communication w/ Production ...... to $75K Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast overseas production team. Good BETTER RUNWAY DESIGNER work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Home Fashion, fluent Mandarin Call Kwan 212-947-3400 benefits pkg. Fax resume: 212-302-4823 Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 or email: [email protected] [email protected] PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Design PRODUCTIONS All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Production Assistant Product Services SAMPLEMAKER SALES REPS WANTED Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Work w/ designer assisting in all aspects Director Well estb’d Couture Co. seeks highly skilled Hot young-contemporary of the biz. Seeking energetic, English New Jersey based Ladies Apparel exp’d sewers/tailors for a stable/secure better denim line, coveted PATTERNS, SAMPLES, speaking person to assist in processing Specialty Store seeks a talented, position. Knowledge of cutting a plus. by better dept stores seeks orders, ordering trims, preparing packages experienced, responsible individual to Oppty for growth. Please call 212-869-2296 PRODUCTIONS for domestic & import production, oversee and manage a product service exp. reps. All territories avail. Full service shop to the trade. specing garments, light sketching. Must team which handles woven tops and Must have spec. store following. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. be detail oriented, organized & able to bottoms, knit and sweater product. A EMAIL:[email protected] follow up. Salary open - based on exp. complete technical understanding of Pier 22 Designs Fax resume to Alan at: 212-575-0068 garment construction and design of SAMPLE ROOM SUPERVISOR Full service CAD/Design Studio these product lines is a must. Must be Important garment co seeks experienced 718.428.8828 [email protected] FABRIC COORDINATOR knowledgeable in PDM. Be able to person to run sample room. Computer Private label apparel company seeking communicate with manufactures as &organizational skills required. Fax exp. person to follow up on all aspects well as merchandising staff. Understand resume to: 212-986-0581 of fabric from research and develop- test reports, computer software, and PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD ment to approvals of lab dips, testing, have a sense of priority. Please fax COOLWEAR JEANS High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- communicating with mills and working resume in confidence to 201-866-0387 Seeking Sales Force for Nat’l advertised sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 directly with customers. Merchandising and branded very hip young cont denim background is a plus. Good computer Technical Design Assistant line. All terr. avail. Must have following. skills required. Adult and Youth apparel company Fax: 212-382-3488 Please fax your resume to 212-382-2421 RECEPTIONIST seeks a highly motivated individual [email protected] Attn: Anne Seeking well-spoken, energetic individual with experience in grading, fit comments, Magic Booth JR11713 with great personality to answer phones, and garment construction. Must be greet customers, and perform light office detail oriented, and organized to assist FASHION FACULTY duties (filing & ordering office supplies). the Head Technical Designer with Private College seeks faculty for Fax all resumes to: 212-358-0031 every aspect from color organization to Fashion Program. Ph.D Degree preferred, RETAIL spec development. Computer skills a Overseas Rep Wanted Master’s degree required, along with MUST- Excel, Word. Previous experience Established Sales significant industry exp. Knowledge of with Wal-Mart CTL testing procedures is Reps Wanted Moderate Social Occasion textiles, product development, buying, welcomed. Please Fax to: 212-921-5340 Contemporary women’s line seeks visual merchandising, merchandise exp’d reps w/ boutique and dept store manufacturer specializing in planning & control. Send resume to: all size ranges seeks individual accounts in all markets. Fax resume to Fashion Search Blue Genes is a fast growing men’s, 212-831-0808 [email protected] with ties to large overseas Berkeley College, 44 Rifle Camp Road, women’s, & kid’s speciality store in retailers to develop West Paterson, New Jersey 07424. Atlanta. We are always seeking people Fax: 973-278-0080 or with innovative ideas to join our team. international business. Email: [email protected] We are presently accepting resumes Send details to: Equal Opportunity Employment for the following positions:

[email protected] *GRAPHIC DESIGNER* • SALES ASSOCIATE T-Shirts For YG Men-Great Co! Part time - Kid’s store Like Freeze-Quicksilver • SALES ASSOCIATE Call (212)643-8090 Fax (212) 643-8127 (agcy) Part time - Women’s store • SALES SUPPORT • STOCK ASSOCIATES PATTERNMAKER • VISUAL MERCHANDISER Women’s sportswear company seeking experienced Patternmaker. Should have If you are interested in being a FOR SALE experience in all types of garments & part of the blue genes team and Established boutique with loyal knowledge of garment construction. have experience in the position listed, DESIGNER / SENIOR LEVEL customer base in quaint mountain Knowledge of digitizing. Candidate please submit your resume to: Dresses/Sportswear exp’d, Domestic/ resort in The Southern Rockies. should be dependable, flexible and [email protected] Import. Great with prints, color and Men and Women’s apparel. able to work in a fast paced environ- Please include the position in the embellishments. Concept thru prod’n. AMIGO REALTY, LLC ment. Fax resume to 212-938-0290 or email subject line. You can also fax Contact with China, traveled to India, Call Toll Free (866) 682-3312 E-mail: [email protected] your resume to (404) 231-9899 shop Europe. Call: (845) 496-6750 Cotton Incorporated, 2002. © k of Cotton Incorporated. Registered Service Mark/Trademar ® TERS. AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPOR PRODUCERS AMERICA’S COTTON

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