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Against the Grain

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Against the Grain SIGHT AND SCENT LETTUCE ENTERTAIN YOU CHANEL’S NEW TORY BURCH LAUNCHES A COLLABORATION WITH FAMED ARTIST DODIE THAYER FOR A LETTUCE WARE COLLECTION. PAGE 4 CHANNEL THE FRENCH HOUSE OPENS A SHOP-IN-SHOP ON NET-A-PORTER FOR A CAPSULE FINE JEWELRY COLLECTION, OLIVER PEOPLES AND BYREDO CREATE BOTH COCO CRUSH. PAGE 2 A FRAGRANCE AND SUNGLASS LINE. PAGE 7 SEC, USTR COMPLAINT AAFA Blasts Alibaba Over Counterfeits By KRISTI ELLIS WASHINGTON — The American Apparel & Footwear Association isn’t letting Alibaba off the hook. The association has lodged two formal complaints against the Chinese Internet giant with the U.S. FRIDAY, APRIL 10, 2015 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Securities & Exchange Commission and the U.S. Trade Representative’s offi ce, imploring federal of- WWD fi cials to step up scrutiny and oversight of Alibaba’s commitments to crack down on counterfeits on its Taobao online marketplace. Juanita Duggan, president and chief executive of- fi cer at the AAFA, sent letters to SEC Chairwoman Mary Jo White and U.S. Trade Representative Michael Froman on Wednesday, outlining the “wors- ening” problem of counterfeit sales on Taobao and asking for more government oversight. “Alibaba’s Taobao platform is notorious as one of the biggest platforms for counterfeit goods world- wide,” Duggan said in her letter to Froman. “Our members encounter innumerable counterfeits on Taobao every day, which result in millions of dollars of lost sales, damage to reputation, legal costs and ex- haustion of internal resources.” Duggan said AAFA has been working with Alibaba representatives for the past year to address con- cerns but charged that implementation of new com- mitments by the Chinese company has been “slug- gish or nonexistent.” AAFA’s members include VF Corp., PVH Corp., Luen Thai USA, Perry Ellis International, Under Armour and New Balance Athletic Shoe Inc. The as- sociation represents more than 340 companies and 1,000 brands. In her letter to the SEC, Duggan said: “We are now urging the commission to use its oversight authority over Alibaba to increase scrutiny of Alibaba’s efforts to police Taobao counterfeits, especially given com- mitments made during the period leading up to last year’s IPO. SEE PAGE 5 Big Get for N.Y.: Men’s As Varvatos to Show By JEAN E. PALMIERI NEW YORK — After seven years of showing his men’s Against collection in Milan, John Varvatos is coming back home. The designer has revealed that he will show his spring 2016 collection in July at the inaugural New York Fashion Week: Men’s, the new stand-alone showcase for American men’s fashion created by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Varvatos will close the event with a runway show on July 16. The Grain The designer’s last New York fashion show was in Traditional sunscreen has met its match. Versatile skin spring 2008. care and color cosmetics with SPF are blurring the lines of “From the time I started my brand in 2000, the timing between fashion week and the men’s wear sun protection and consumers are embracing these products calendar was never truly aligned,” Varvatos said. year-round. So how do the Coppertones and Banana Boats evolve to bring “After eight years of showing in New York, I moved consumers to their endcap in both January and July? For more, see page 6. my show to Milan. We’ve shown there for the past seven years and it’s been a wonderful experience and a real boost for our international growth.” But the idea of supporting the new men’s fashion week kept nagging at him, and a lightbulb fi nally went off in his head when he opened a fl agship in his hometown of Detroit a few weeks ago. “We’re the only retailer in downtown Detroit — literally, we’re the only ones there,” he said. “But like we did on the Bowery [when we opened our store in the former CBGB location in 2008], we planted the fl ag.” He felt the same way about the fashion week initiative and decided to take the plunge. “I’m an American designer, we’re an American brand and PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY SHARON BER New York City is my home, so we thought it was the right time,” he said. SEE PAGE 12 2 WWD FRIDAY, APRIL 10, 2015 WWD.COM Chanel Tests Net-a-porter Shop DIGITAL BRIEFING BOX The understated yet tony collection is meant FOR MORE COVERAGE, FIND US ON WWD.COM, SOCIAL AND MOBILE. By SAMANTHA CONTI and PAULINA SZMYDKE to attract a wider audience and be worn in the daytime. Rings are expected to retail between ON WWD.COM LONDON — Ahead of its dive into e-commerce 1,970 euros and 3,250 euros, or $2,133 to $3,520 at next year, Chanel is testing the digital waters with a current exchange, while the cuff will go for 19,000 shop-in-shop at Net-a-porter.com for a capsule col- euros, or $20,580. Major League Style Stars: Baseball lection of fine jewelry called Coco Crush. “What we wanted to do was an exclusive digital season kicked off this week, but who The six-piece collection will make its debut on launch, and we thought it was a good idea to part- is leading the majors out of uniform? Wednesday, with a digital shop-in-shop selling fi ve ner with Net-a-porter, which has a fashionable and We took a look at the style of some rings and one cuff designed by Chanel’s Studio strong audience in luxury,” Benjamin Comar, inter- top signings from the offseason to national director of Chanel Fine Jewelry, told WWD. see who hit it out of the park and Comar added that the cooperation was not who racked up a few errors. linked to Chanel’s plans of building an e-commerce business by the end of 2016, but was more of a “one- time shot.” He described the Net-a-porter customer as very “international and a real connoisseur.” Alison Loehnis, president of Net-a-porter.com, said the company “had always wanted to partner with [Chanel] in some way.” She called the shop “quintes- L Matt Kemp: Not sentially Chanel, full of the brand’s DNA and very everybody can pull off a modern” and added the Net-a-porter team has cre- green suit with a burgundy ated an “entirely bespoke world” for the collection. Fifties-inspired polo and The shop Loehnis pointed out that, for the fi rst time, Net- look modern. Matt Kemp will offer a a-porter has eschewed its own signature white loves fashion. jewelry capsule background in lieu of black, and that the jewels collection called “pop” thanks to 360-degree photography that allows Coco Crush. shoppers to zoom in on the products, and an overall responsive design. She noted that fi ne jewelry is a fast-growing cat- of Creation. The shop will remain open for three egory on the site, with growth in the double digits, weeks after the launch before moving to Chanel and the trend is for women to buy for themselves stores across the globe. rather than wait to receive it as a gift. The pieces draw on the world of Coco Chanel Going forward, she said while Net-a-porter and feature the brand’s signature matelassé or wouldn’t replicate the Chanel shop, she could envi- quilted pattern, on 18-karat white and yellow gold sion similar partnerships. designs. Chanel fi rst used the matelassé for jew- As reported last month Chanel could launch e- L Giancarlo Stanton: The $300 elry in 1993, when it offi cially branched into the commerce as early as the fourth-quarter of 2016, million man. The Miami Marlins bijoux business. according to Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel’s presi- slugger re-signed with a record The temporary space is Chanel’s fi rst e-com- dent of fashion. In addition, three of the Métiers $325 million, 13-year contract. The merce project, and a new concept for Net-a-porter, d’Art companies, owned by Chanel under its textured blazer worn with a black whose in-house team built the shop-in-shop from Paraffection subsidiary, will launch e-commerce tie and black pants infuses the scratch using Cloud-based technology. by the end of this year. evening ensemble with a sense of youthfulness, so it works for him. L Pablo Sandoval: Panda Barbara Cirkva to Exit U.S. Post in 2016 power! There’s a lot to “Barbara’s leadership and infl uence at Chanel be said for carrying the By DAVID MOIN and in the industry are recognized and respected nickname of a large and globally,” said John Galantic, president and chief supercuddly, yet powerful NEW YORK — Barbara Cirkva, division president of operating offi cer at Chanel Inc. “During her tenure animal. We would be fast fashion for Chanel in the U.S., will step down from at Chanel, she has continually elevated the image fashion friends with him. her role at the French luxury house in of the brand while balancing the interest March 2016. of the business. Barbara’s leadership, Cirkva is a 28-year veteran of Chanel deep understanding of luxury and pas- and considered among the luxury in- sion for the brand are truly inspiring and dustry’s most highly regarded execu- will be missed.” tives. She’s been a key player in main- “My career at Chanel has been one of taining the enduring appeal of the the most exceptional experiences of my brand and spreading its popularity.
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