SIGHT AND SCENT LETTUCE ENTERTAIN YOU CHANEL’S NEW TORY BURCH LAUNCHES A COLLABORATION WITH FAMED ARTIST DODIE THAYER FOR A LETTUCE WARE COLLECTION. PAGE 4 CHANNEL THE FRENCH HOUSE OPENS A SHOP-IN-SHOP ON NET-A-PORTER FOR A CAPSULE FINE JEWELRY COLLECTION, OLIVER PEOPLES AND BYREDO CREATE BOTH COCO CRUSH. PAGE 2 A FRAGRANCE AND SUNGLASS LINE. PAGE 7

SEC, USTR COMPLAINT AAFA Blasts Alibaba Over Counterfeits

By KRISTI ELLIS

WASHINGTON — The American Apparel & Footwear Association isn’t letting Alibaba off the hook. The association has lodged two formal complaints against the Chinese Internet giant with the U.S. FRIDAY, APRIL 10, 2015 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Securities & Exchange Commission and the U.S. Trade Representative’s offi ce, imploring federal of- WWD fi cials to step up scrutiny and oversight of Alibaba’s commitments to crack down on counterfeits on its Taobao online marketplace. Juanita Duggan, president and chief executive of- fi cer at the AAFA, sent letters to SEC Chairwoman Mary Jo White and U.S. Trade Representative Michael Froman on Wednesday, outlining the “wors- ening” problem of counterfeit sales on Taobao and asking for more government oversight. “Alibaba’s Taobao platform is notorious as one of the biggest platforms for counterfeit goods world- wide,” Duggan said in her letter to Froman. “Our members encounter innumerable counterfeits on Taobao every day, which result in millions of dollars of lost sales, damage to reputation, legal costs and ex- haustion of internal resources.” Duggan said AAFA has been working with Alibaba representatives for the past year to address con- cerns but charged that implementation of new com- mitments by the Chinese company has been “slug- gish or nonexistent.” AAFA’s members include VF Corp., PVH Corp., Luen Thai USA, Perry Ellis International, Under Armour and New Balance Athletic Shoe Inc. The as- sociation represents more than 340 companies and 1,000 brands. In her letter to the SEC, Duggan said: “We are now urging the commission to use its oversight authority over Alibaba to increase scrutiny of Alibaba’s efforts to police Taobao counterfeits, especially given com- mitments made during the period leading up to last year’s IPO. SEE PAGE 5 Big Get for N.Y.: Men’s As Varvatos to Show

By JEAN E. PALMIERI

NEW YORK — After seven years of showing his men’s Against collection in Milan, John Varvatos is coming back home. The designer has revealed that he will show his spring 2016 collection in July at the inaugural New York Fashion Week: Men’s, the new stand-alone showcase for American men’s fashion created by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Varvatos will close the event with a runway show on July 16. The Grain The designer’s last New York fashion show was in Traditional sunscreen has met its match. Versatile skin spring 2008. care and color cosmetics with SPF are blurring the lines of “From the time I started my brand in 2000, the timing between fashion week and the men’s wear sun protection and consumers are embracing these products calendar was never truly aligned,” Varvatos said. year-round. So how do the Coppertones and Banana Boats evolve to bring “After eight years of showing in New York, I moved consumers to their endcap in both January and July? For more, see page 6. my show to Milan. We’ve shown there for the past seven years and it’s been a wonderful experience and a real boost for our international growth.” But the idea of supporting the new men’s fashion week kept nagging at him, and a lightbulb fi nally went off in his head when he opened a fl agship in his hometown of Detroit a few weeks ago. “We’re the only retailer in downtown Detroit — literally, we’re the only ones there,” he said. “But like we did on the Bowery [when we opened our store in the former CBGB location in 2008], we planted the fl ag.” He felt the same way about the fashion week initiative and decided to take the plunge. “I’m an American designer, we’re an American brand and PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY SHARON BER New York City is my home, so we thought it was the right time,” he said. SEE PAGE 12 2 WWD FRIDAY, APRIL 10, 2015 WWD.COM

Chanel Tests Net-a-porter Shop DIGITAL BRIEFING BOX The understated yet tony collection is meant FOR MORE COVERAGE, FIND US ON WWD.COM, SOCIAL AND MOBILE. By SAMANTHA CONTI and PAULINA SZMYDKE to attract a wider audience and be worn in the daytime. Rings are expected to retail between ON WWD.COM LONDON — Ahead of its dive into e-commerce 1,970 euros and 3,250 euros, or $2,133 to $3,520 at next year, Chanel is testing the digital waters with a current exchange, while the cuff will go for 19,000 shop-in-shop at Net-a-porter.com for a capsule col- euros, or $20,580. Major League Style Stars: Baseball lection of fine jewelry called Coco Crush. “What we wanted to do was an exclusive digital season kicked off this week, but who The six-piece collection will make its debut on launch, and we thought it was a good idea to part- is leading the majors out of uniform? Wednesday, with a digital shop-in-shop selling fi ve ner with Net-a-porter, which has a fashionable and We took a look at the style of some rings and one cuff designed by Chanel’s Studio strong audience in luxury,” Benjamin Comar, inter- top signings from the offseason to national director of Chanel Fine Jewelry, told WWD. see who hit it out of the park and Comar added that the cooperation was not who racked up a few errors. linked to Chanel’s plans of building an e-commerce business by the end of 2016, but was more of a “one- time shot.” He described the Net-a-porter customer as very “international and a real connoisseur.” Alison Loehnis, president of Net-a-porter.com, said the company “had always wanted to partner with [Chanel] in some way.” She called the shop “quintes- L Matt Kemp: Not sentially Chanel, full of the brand’s DNA and very everybody can pull off a modern” and added the Net-a-porter team has cre- green suit with a burgundy ated an “entirely bespoke world” for the collection. Fifties-inspired polo and The shop Loehnis pointed out that, for the fi rst time, Net- look modern. Matt Kemp will offer a a-porter has eschewed its own signature white loves fashion. jewelry capsule background in lieu of black, and that the jewels collection called “pop” thanks to 360-degree photography that allows Coco Crush. shoppers to zoom in on the products, and an overall responsive design. She noted that fi ne jewelry is a fast-growing cat- of Creation. The shop will remain open for three egory on the site, with growth in the double digits, weeks after the launch before moving to Chanel and the trend is for women to buy for themselves stores across the globe. rather than wait to receive it as a gift. The pieces draw on the world of Coco Chanel Going forward, she said while Net-a-porter and feature the brand’s signature matelassé or wouldn’t replicate the Chanel shop, she could envi- quilted pattern, on 18-karat white and yellow gold sion similar partnerships. designs. Chanel fi rst used the matelassé for jew- As reported last month Chanel could launch e- L Giancarlo Stanton: The $300 elry in 1993, when it offi cially branched into the commerce as early as the fourth-quarter of 2016, million man. The Miami Marlins bijoux business. according to Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel’s presi- slugger re-signed with a record The temporary space is Chanel’s fi rst e-com- dent of fashion. In addition, three of the Métiers $325 million, 13-year contract. The merce project, and a new concept for Net-a-porter, d’Art companies, owned by Chanel under its textured blazer worn with a black whose in-house team built the shop-in-shop from Paraffection subsidiary, will launch e-commerce tie and black pants infuses the scratch using Cloud-based technology. by the end of this year. evening ensemble with a sense of youthfulness, so it works for him.

L Pablo Sandoval: Panda Barbara Cirkva to Exit U.S. Post in 2016 power! There’s a lot to “Barbara’s leadership and infl uence at Chanel be said for carrying the By DAVID MOIN and in the industry are recognized and respected nickname of a large and globally,” said John Galantic, president and chief supercuddly, yet powerful NEW YORK — Barbara Cirkva, division president of operating offi cer at Chanel Inc. “During her tenure animal. We would be fast fashion for Chanel in the U.S., will step down from at Chanel, she has continually elevated the image fashion friends with him. her role at the French luxury house in of the brand while balancing the interest March 2016. of the business. Barbara’s leadership, Cirkva is a 28-year veteran of Chanel deep understanding of luxury and pas- and considered among the luxury in- sion for the brand are truly inspiring and dustry’s most highly regarded execu- will be missed.” tives. She’s been a key player in main- “My career at Chanel has been one of taining the enduring appeal of the the most exceptional experiences of my brand and spreading its popularity. professional and personal life. I want The company has commenced a search to thank all of the wonderful partners for a successor. I have had over the years in the U.S., Cirkva joined Chanel in 1987 after a Paris and globally, and I look forward to L Hanley Ramirez: Another new career at Bloomingdale’s, where she was working with them throughout the year,” addition to Red Sox Nation, Ramirez a top merchant. Barbara Cirkva Cirkva said. She started at Chanel when its fashion In addition to working at Chanel, is wearing a very Lucious Lyon business in the U.S. was in its infancy and she’s the co-owner of Fleur, a garden ensemble. The well-armed shoulder was instrumental in dramatically growing it. In addi- antiques shop in Mount Kisco, N.Y., along with her enhances his powerful physique. tion, Cirkva oversaw the launch and stewardship of husband, John Schumacher, who ran the former

L Ichiro Suzuki: Leading the best

Chanel’s watch and fi ne jewelry business in the U.S. Bonwit Teller and I. Magnin chains. ANDREW H. WALKER/GETTY IMAGES FOR CHANEL PHOTO BY dressed of the pack, his black and midnight blue combination is always a winning formula. Walgreens Boots Details Store Shifts IMAGES RODRIGO VARELA/GETTY CHRIS MCGRATH/GETTY BY IMAGES; SUZUKI BY AP; STANTON BY RAMIREZ BENSON/GETTY IMAGES FOR HUBLOT; BECKER/GETTY ROBERT DAVID IMAGES; KEMP BY PHOTO BY SANDOVAL WALGREENS BOOTS ALLIANCE Inc. will shutter 200 The total project cost-reduction plan is project- FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA U.S. stores, but then open 200 over the same period. ed at $1.5 billion, expected to be completed by the @ WWD.com/social The disclosure was made by Alexander Gourlay, end of 2017. executive vice president of Walgreens Boots and Stefano Pessina, executive vice chairman and TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. president of Walgreen Co., during the company’s acting chief executive offi cer, said the company is WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. conference call to Wall Street analysts on second- also looking at opportunities for growth, both on COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 209, NO. 73. FRIDAY, APRIL 10, 2015. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays quarter results. the mergers and acquisitions front as well as those and holidays, with one additional issue in March, June, August, September, October, November and December, and two Gourlay said, “This really is just getting the right related to “potential joint venture” options. additional issues in April and three additional issues in February) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Floor, Los Angeles, CA 90025. Periodicals stores in the right place,” he said of the store clo- On a GAAP basis, net earnings for the quarter postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses sures and openings. ended Feb. 28 were $2.04 billion, or $1.93 a diluted to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, And also I think it’s about the right cash and the share, versus $716 million, or 74 cents, a year ago. P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at right returns per store basis.” Net sales jumped 35.5 percent to $26.57 billion from wwdPrint@cdsfulfi llment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Gourlay explained that the company will be look- $19.61 billion. Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Offi ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected ing at closing stores in locations where the popula- The company forecasted full-year adjusted net address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you tion is moving away making those sites less produc- earnings at between $3.45 to $3.65 a diluted share. are ever dissatisfi ed with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues tive in the future. The analysis is about the “right Walgreens Co. and Alliance Boots GmbH com- contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business and production cash and the right returns per store basis,” he noted. bined to form Walgreens Boots Alliance on Dec. correspondence to WWD, 475 Fifth Ave., 15th Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656, or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. The closures are part of an additional cost- 31 when Walgreens completed its purchase of the For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. reduction initiative that will add $500 million stake in Alliance Boots it didn’t already own. Its ini- To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED to the $1 billion cost-reduction plan revealed in tial 45 percent stake was acquired in 2012. MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND August. Included in the latest component of the The second-quarter earnings report represents TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED initiative will be a reorganization of corporate the fi rst one disclosed since the two fi rms merged. TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE and fi eld operations. — VICKI M. YOUNG ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. BEAUTY SUMMIT JUNE 9-10, 2015

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EVENT SPONSORS 4 WWD FRIDAY, APRIL 10, 2015 March Comps Show Tepid Lift Trade Report and the expected “Easter dividend” work- and a 0.5 percent decline. Touts Growth By ARNOLD J. KARR ing their way into the numbers. Janney Capital Markets analyst L Brands Inc. easily exceeded esti- Adrienne Yih described the month’s re- THE EASTER BUNNY provided a few, mates, with the overall comp increase and sults as “just OK, not great” but agreed By KRISTI ELLIS but hardly all, of the sweets retailers those at Victoria’s Secret and Bath & Body with what appeared to be a general con- were hoping for in March. Works all coming in at a robust 9 percent. sensus that retailers were heading into WASHINGTON — The Obama ad- The small sample of stores continuing The company reported improved mer- the fi nal month of the fi rst retail quarter ministration, anticipating the long- to report monthly sales generally deliv- chandise margins at VS and B&BW and with inventories that refl ected a disci- awaited introduction of presidential ered tepid results for the said that the tim- plined approach without a pick-up in pro- Trade Promotion Authority legisla- month, but there were a ing of Easter lifted motional cadence. tion in the Senate next week, re- few signs of energy in the Comparable March comp results L Brands, for instance, said inventories leased a new trade report Thursday apparel sector. between 3 and 4 per square foot were down 10 percent. highlighting record export growth in Although he described Sales for March points, although In the broader brick-and-mortar mar- a state-by-state analysis. the overall results as “dis- % Change it expects that ad- ket, RetailNext, which monitors shopping Commerce Secretary Penny mal” and noted the March vantage to be given and purchasing behavior among more Pritzker said on a press call Thursday numbers — an overall Old Navy 14 back in April, when than 1 billion shoppers a year, found that that the Senate is expected to intro- increase of 0.2 percent — ...... it projects comps overall sales were down 3.2 percent dur- duce TPA next week when Congress Cato 12 constituted the “weakest ...... will be fl at to up at a ing the month with an 8.2 percent decline returns from a two-week break, which comp-store reading since Stein Mart 11.2 low-single-digit rate. in traffi c. But March saw the biggest in- was welcome news to free trade ad- November 2012, when sales ...... Reporting after crease in sales per transaction in over vocates who have been growing con- slipped by 0.1 percent,” Victoria’s Secret 9 the close of the mar- a year, at 5.8 percent, along with gains cerned about gridlock on Capitol Hill. Michael Niemira, chief ...... kets Thursday, Gap in conversion (0.9 percent) and average “I am pleased the Senate is ex- Bath & Body Works 9 economist and principal of ...... Inc.’s overall gain of transaction value (3.5 percent). By re- pected to introduce the trade pro- The Retail Economist LLC, Zumiez 5.5 2 percent exceeded gion, the West excelled, with the smallest motion authority bill next week,” took note of “a lift to appar- ...... estimates, although decline in traffi c, 3.1 percent, and an 8.3 Pritzker said. “It is going to allow el demand from the earlier Costco * 4 the positive fin- percent increase in sales, the only posi- Congress to set high standards, ob- Easter,” which occurred ...... ish was wholly at- tive performance of the four regions. jectives and priorities for U.S. trade Buckle -0.5 this year on April 5 rather ...... tributable to the 14 The West also led the nation in aver- negotiators. By opening the doors than last year’s celebration percent gain at Old age transaction value (up 8.3 percent) to trade and regions like the Asia Banana Republic -3 on April 20...... Navy, neutralizing and sales per shopper (up 11.9 percent). Pacifi c, we can help companies… But he pointed out that Gap -7 a 7 percent decline The Northeast, hurt throughout the profi led in this report we are re- the March results marked at Gap brand and month by weather, had an 11.1 percent leasing today to hire more people at the third time in as many a 3 percent drop at decline in traffi c and a 4.4 percent drop home and pay them better wages.” SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS months that sales re- * EXCLUDES FUEL SALES Banana Republic. in sales, both the worst measures among TPA is seen as vital to complet- mained “depressed.” With strong con- the four regions. ing several trade deals, particularly Thomson Reuters put the increase centrations of stores across the Southeast The comp results pressured retail the Trans-Pacifi c Partnership agree- for the month, excluding drugstores, at and South, Stein Mart Inc. and Cato Corp. stocks downward. While the Dow Jones ment negotiations between the U.S. 1.1 percent, matching its fi nal estimate. registered strong numbers — gains of 11.2 Industrial Average rose 0.3 percent to and 11 other countries, which the Apparel stores improved 2.8 percent, and 12 percent, respectively. Stein Mart 17,958.73 and the S&P 500 rose 0.5 per- administration has said it is close although the fi gure would have been pointed out that its Northeastern stores cent to 2,091.18, the S&P 500 Retailing to completing. Under TPA, Congress 5.4 percent without Gap Inc.’s 2 per- registered midsingle-digit increases Industry Group lost 0.4 percent and can only vote up or down on a trade cent gain, which carried extra weight while those in other regions had high-sin- closed at 1,132.79. Even with Old Navy’s agreement, which gives the admin- because of Gap’s high volume. Still, 56 gle or double-digit comp advances. hefty increase, Gap shares receded 1.5 istration leverage with trading part- percent of retailers missed analysts’ The two teen retailers remaining percent to $42.10 in after-hours trading. ners. The Transatlantic Trade and consensus estimates. in the comp mix, Zumiez Inc. and The The stock rose 0.8 percent to $42.73 in Investment Partnership between the The results were also inconsistent, Buckle Inc., fell short of expectations the regular New York Stock Exchange U.S. and European Union is another with factors including region, gas prices with, respectively, a 5.5 percent increase trading session. key trade negotiation underway. In recent weeks, opposition from Democrats who are seeking changes in a TPA bill has raised concerns. Pressed on whether she had Tory Burch Unveils Dodie Thayer Collection heard a compromise had been reached in the Senate on TPA, By LUISA ZARGANI Pritzker said the bill will be intro- duced early next week based on MILAN — Tory Burch will debut the what she has heard and read. brand’s home collection in Europe and “Obviously to do that, they’ve got to launch the Dodie Thayer for Tory Burch come to a consensus. We are anxiously Lettuce Ware Collection here during the awaiting to see the language,” she said. international furniture and design show, The new state-by-state analysis the Salone del Mobile. released by Commerce and the U.S. Burch and Wallpaper Magazine Trade Representative’s office and tapped British designer Bethan Laura dubbed the “United States of Trade” Wood to create an artwork inspired by is one of the centerpieces of the ad- the Lettuce Ware collection, and the ministration’s full court press in installation will be unveiled dur- pushing Congress to approve TPA and ing a cocktail event on Wednesday TPP this year while also advancing a at the designer’s new fl agship in T-TIP with the EU. Milan’s Via della Spiga. “From coast to coast, exporters The Florida-based, self-taught have played a critical role in grow- Thayer began selling her ceramics ing our economy,” Pritzker said on a in the shape of green lettuce or press call. “This new report demon- cabbage leaves in the Sixties. Her strates how trade continues to create customers included Jacqueline good, paying jobs across the country Kennedy, C.Z. Guest, the Duchess The Dodie Thayer for Tory Burch Lettuce Ware Collection. by profi ling small and medium-sized of Windsor and Brooke Astor. business in all 50 states who are “I’m not afraid of color or pat- using exports to expand their busi- tern, two of my favorite [ele- apé took three days of painting. the perfect shade of lettuce green. When nesses,” she said adding that more ments] and strong inspiration,” “It depended on the complexity we began working on our home collection, than 304,000 U.S. companies are ex- Wood said. “I loved the whole — cream cheese was a nightmare, one of the things I kept referencing was porters and nearly 98 percent of those story, and I had fun researching it’s harder to paint than to draw,” Dodie’s work. I reached out to her and she are small- to medium-size businesses cookbooks and recipes, and the observed Wood with a laugh. was interested in collaborating with us, so with fewer than 500 employees. style of entertaining from the The lettuce ware will be dis- I fl ew down to visit her at her home on the U.S. Trade Representative Michael Sixties and Seventies.” played in a dedicated area of the Loxahatchee River in Jupiter, Fla. She is an Froman said: “In this report we are is- Wood explained the brand’s flagships in Milan, extraordinary woman and entrepreneur.” suing today we are working to show “main brief was to create London and Munich, and As for Wood, Burch said the designer both the scale and importance of the a very celebratory” in- will also be available on “shares my passion for color and pattern. trade relationship for every state.” stallation, “colorful, fun toryburch.com and, from Her work is incredibly diverse — every- “With the Trans-Pacific and playful. There was Tuesday, on the brand’s thing from furniture to accessories — so I Partnership we have a once-in-a-gen- a strong connection and European e-commerce was interested to see what she would do eration chance to unleash the eco- great fi t.” The installation sites. Burch will open a with our Lettuce Ware Collection. nomic potential of American small comprises individual can- Paris unit this summer. “Like Bethan, I love fl ea markets and businesses and to level the playing apé designs all painted by Ahead of her trip to Milan fi nding interesting pieces while traveling fi eld for our workers,” Froman said. hand, with an eye on Burch’s for the Salone, Burch said she — our collections are partly inspired by He noted that U.S. exports hit a “recent range of women’s Artwork by Bethan decided to team up with Thayer that, but the main inspiration is really my record-high for the fi fth year in a wear,” with touches of green Laura Wood because she has admired her work family and items I grew up with around row last year, reaching $2.35 trillion and mustard. Each small can- inspired by the line. for years. “I was always drawn to our home.” and supporting 11.7 million jobs. WWD Friday, april 10, 2015 5 WWD.COM Headline Here Headline H Fred Segal to Open Tokyo Shopping Center and develop reproductions. There’s a well as Fred segal coffee drinks and pack- is edgy. it’s cool and has an L.a. flair. This By Lisa Lockwood cult of denim in Japan. we had to make aged beans and iced bottled coffee from place will have a Tokyo flair and will be dif- sure when we opened in Japan, we had Marufuku, official purveyor to Japan’s royal ferent. it’s an authentic Fred segal for the FREd sEGaL’ s first overseas move is fi- credibility,” Blum said. family. There will be a tricked-out Fred Japanese market. it’s not a transplanted nally becoming a reality. The Tokyo complex will house three segal food truck parked on the side, serving Fred segal for Japan,” he said. Next week the retailer will unveil a stores: “Fred segal woman,” “Fred segal culinary treats straight from the truck. The complex’s decor will feature a lot 10,000-square-foot shopping center in Man” and “The Mart at Fred segal.” The Tokyo complex is designed by of wood and plantings. “it will be natural Tokyo, occupying three of five build- aesthetic Movement in Brooklyn. in feel, sort of like the High Line. There ings at Log Road, a modern convert- while not set in stone, women’s offer- will be a pedestrian walkway,” Blum said. ed railway site in the trendy, upscale ings will be a mix of american, European “it’s a place where we hope people will daikanyama neighborhood. and Japanese brands, including Marni, 3.1 spend time and hang out. Everyone’s rush- “This project has become the one that Phillip Lim, Helmut Lang, Hermès, koral, ing in Tokyo. Everything’s very compact. ate everything else,” said Paul Blum, chief Lanvin, isabel Marant Étoile and New You will have the ability to sit and relax executive officer of Fred segal, which is Balance. “it’ll be a great mix across a lot of and experience the place.” owned by sandow. He said when he first different price points so it really feels inter- Founded in santa Monica, calif., in joined the company last May, the first proj- esting,” Blum said. Men’s lines will likely 1961, Fred segal became known as an in- ect he jumped into was Tokyo. “it became include adidas, Haider ackermann, J.w. dustry leader for ferreting out new and so important and so complicated and so anderson, Porter and Todd snyder. denim noteworthy apparel and beauty brands. significant, that we really had to put every- brands for women and men will include in 2012, it was acquired by sandow, a thing else on the back burner for this year, ” Frame denim, koral, alex Mill, simon privately held company with holdings in said Blum, who previously was ceo of Juicy Miller and Levi’s Vintage. Exclusive col- media, global materials consultancy and couture and kenneth cole Productions. laborations will also be important, such as creative management. Last year, sandow “Tokyo became the center of everything.” those with oliver Peoples, Moleskine, Toms partnered with equity investor Evolution in researching the Japanese market, his and Haider ackermann. The women’s store Media Partners, an entertainment media team discovered that the consumer there is will also house a beauty area, with an em- and sports merchant bank formed in part- really into heritage. “That’s where every- phasis on organic and natural products. nership with creative artists agency; TPG thing starts from,” said Blum, noting many “Japan is a perfect place to do experi- Growth, the middle-market and growth eq- Japanese have been shopping at Fred segal mental and experiential retail,” Blum said. uity investment platform of global invest- in Los angeles since the sixties. “To a large “we were able to break through the bound- ment firm TPG, and Participant Media, a degree, Fred segal is fashion heritage to the The logo for the Fred Segal Tokyo location. aries of normal retail, that in this country global entertainment company. sandow Japanese. it’s the place where denim was would be unheard of,” he said. cotenants took on Evolution as a partner to fund the created as a fashion item.” “we added a whole food component,” will be Tartine Bakery and kirin Beer Hall, rollout of up to 10 Fred segal lifestyle cen- The fashion focus in that category Blum said. “we’re developing a mini-food which serves craft beer, but they won’t be ters in the U.s. and abroad over the next then transferred to Japan, when the hall in the building. Food is one of the ready for the april 17 opening. a spa is also five to seven years. sandow’s partner in Japanese bought a lot of the denim ma- most important lifestyle elements going on planned, but won’t be ready next week. Japan is MFs Japan. chinery, and it became a Japanese in- today.” He doesn’t plan to serve Japanese asked whether Fred segal Japan is Last august, Fred segal opened a dustry, he noted. “denim is a lifestyle for food, but rather american favorites such expected to be as edgy as its Los angeles 10,000-square-foot “retail experience” at them, and they search out antique denim as Blue star donuts from Portland, ore., as counterpart, he said: “i don’t think L.a. the sLs Las Vegas hotel. Mulberry on Pace AAFA Calls Alibaba’’ on Counterfeits {Continued from page one} status quo will lead to the re-listing of not be properly safeguarded. To Exceed Forecast “Taobao should not be permitted Taobao” in the agency’s 2015 report. Taobao has also refused to take to facilitate criminal activities while “we urge you to use every op- down counterfeit copyrighted im- By saMaNTHa coNTi profiting at the expense of legitimate portunity to deliver this message to ages without having information U.s. businesses,” duggan said. officials froma libaba and in other of where the image is published LoNdoN — Mulberry Group plc has ended its alibaba has been under in- applicable intellectual property for public viewing, aaFa said. year on a high note. tense scrutiny over the past sev- rights fora,” duggan said in the let- companies are also having problems The British accessories firm, plagued for eral months for its business prac- ter to Froman. removing listings that are “blatant” months by management woes and negative profit tices and has already drawn the aaFa outlined several areas of violations in the common sense, warnings, reported that profit before exceptional attention of the sEc. alibaba said concern regarding Taobao in the such as adding or changing single items is expected to be “slightly ahead” of mar- previously the sEc has asked for two complaints. letters to a registered brand. ket expectations for the year ended March 31, information about a meeting the among the key ones were the aaFa said Taobao’s new “three due to improving retail sales and cost control. company had last summer with a potential for sensitive information strike” system “gives far too much as reported in december, retail trading im- chinese regulator over allegations being leaked to counterfeiters; the leniency” to counterfeiters and ar- proved following the introduction of the spring of selling counterfeit products, be- need for improved enforcement gued there should be no warning collection, which boasts a broader price range fore it made its public offering in than in the past. New York last fall. Mulberry said revenue for the 12-month pe- The chinese e-commerce giant riod would be in line with expectations at 148 has also come under scrutiny from its If someone is selling counterfeit products, million pounds, or $241.2 million. Figures have own government. been calculated at average exchange rates for duggan said her members have their storefront should not only be removed the 12 months to March 31. had “mixed success” in securing The full-year growth in retail revenue of 1 “takedowns” of just a small percent- percent has been more than offset by the previ- age of infringing, counterfeit products immediately, but also banned permanently. ously announced decline in the wholesale busi- being sold on Taobao, she said. ness, Mulberry added. However, many other companies — aafa complaint Mulberry has been pursuing a strategy of cull- are “frustrated at the slow and cum- ing wholesale clients and putting a larger focus bersome procedures that prevent on retail sales and international expansion. swift action,” duggan said. “Even suc- of copyrighted materials and im- system, no point system or strike The company added that, as a result of “care- cesses are short-lived as counterfeit proved cooperation with local au- system. “if someone is selling coun- ful cost control,” profit before exceptional items products often reappear within hours thorities; increasing the scope of terfeit products, their storefront is slightly ahead of market expectations. or days of a takedown.” trademark infringement violations; should not only be removed immedi- The reported results for the year will also UsTR removed Taobao from its speeding up the time it takes to re- ately, but also banned permanently,” include an exceptional, non-cash impairment “Notorious Market” list in 2012 and move infringing counterfeits and aaFa said. “any lesser measures charge of between 2.5 million pounds and 3 mil- declined to re-list the site in its 2013 storefronts, and more recognition give entirely too much power to il- lion pounds, or $4.1 million and $4.9 million, re- and 2014 reports. of well-known trademarks and ad- legal counterfeit manufacturers.” lating to five of its stores. in early March, U.s. trade offi- ministrative burdens associated The association warned against com- “The encouraging retail trends over the last cials said the agency is growing con- with trademark infringement take- panies signing memorandums of under- five months reflect our reinvigorated prod- cerned about recent allegations of down requests. standing individually with Taobao and uct offer and focus upon our customers,” said counterfeiting and digital piracy on aaFa outlined the specific is- instead called for an industry-wide part- Godfrey davis, Mulberry’s chairman. Taobao,though it did not re-list the sues and gave corresponding solu- nership and MoU with’’ aaFa. over the past year, davis quickly pulled to- company on its report. details about tions to them. aaFa said it has also discussed gether a strategy following the company’s ill- new steps alibaba said it plans to For example, the association with Taobao developing a webinar fated attempt to move upmarket too quickly. He take to combat counterfeiting and pi- said companies are hesitant to program using its platform to de- broadened price points, and began to woo back racy came to light at the time, includ- share sensitive information with scribe action plans to address the the core customer. ing a new rights holder complaint alibaba on how they know an item issues outlined and educate the in- Earlier this year, he also named Mulberry system and a separate penalty system. is a counterfeit on Taobao because dustry on how to alert Taobao about board member and industry veteran Thierry But duggan said “since Taobao Taobao uses a strike system and counterfeits. But the webinar was andretta to the role of chief executive officer, was delisted, the problem of counter- could share the information. in ad- never acted on. and late last year confirmed that Johnny coca, feit apparel and footwear on the site dition, aaFa said its members have The sEc declined to comment, formerly head of accessories at céline, would has worsened.” been asked to provide information while UsTR and alibaba did not become creative director. coca is to take up his she is calling on UsTR to send a about business partners or scanned immediately respond to requests role in July. strong message to alibaba that “the copies of individual ids that might for comment.

6 WWD FRIDAY, APRIL 10, 2015 beauty Sun Care’s New’’ Wave ecutive offi cer of Supergoop. “Then, we care at Sephora, who added that the re- Hampton Sun, noted that he’s expanding By JAYME CYK think about the products that people are tailer is launching a sun-care section in- his luxury sun-care brand. “We do realize using 12 months out of the year.” store and online on May 21. The dot-com to grow we have to have a 360-degree busi- THE TRADITIONAL boundary between “When people think of sunscreen in gen- landing page will feature over 15 brands ness,” he said. “Although consumers have skin care and sun protection is fading eral, it’s always that additional layer that and 25 sku’s, and will live permanently gotten more savvy and understand the need faster than a summer tan. they need to add to their skin care,” added online as a menu option. An endcap fea- for sunscreen protection daily, we realized The classic tanning market is being Maria Sharapova, co-owner of Supergoop, turing two towers will support the sun- that we have to close the gap a little.” challenged by a new breed of treatment who should know a thing or two about care section in the store in addition to the Also of note is the high amount of UV and makeup brands that have added sunscreen given her on-court life. “This is brand’s own dedicated product space. protection that companies are infusing sun protection. something we’re trying to change.” Coola is slowing adding new catego- into their latest launches. Due to the increasing popularity of more Exclusive to Sephora starting Tuesday ries to its company. In April, it will launch Prestige skin care featuring SPF 50+ versatile skin care and color cosmetics with and launching on supergoop.com today, Coola SPF 30 Organic Makeup Setting grew 18 percent in dollar sales in 2014, SPF, overall sun protection posted a decline the company’s newest product, Defense Spray, $18, which is a weightless mist that while SPF 15 was down 14 percent, ac- of 2 percent in 2013, falling to $1.4 billion in Refresh Setting Mist SPF 50, retails for $26 cording to The NPD Group Inc. the U.S., according to Euromonitor and delivers UV protection while setting In May, Chanel is launching a refor- Mintel reported that the sun protection makeup and soothing infl ammation, en- Traditional sunscreen mulated version of its CC Cream with and sunless category saw solid gains be- forces reapplication since consumers don’t SPF 50, whereas previously it only came tween 2009 and 2012, growing sales by 22 need to slather on a new layer of sunscreen. brands need to start in SPF 30. Priced at $55, the hybrid face percent. However, the category is starting “There really hasn’t been a highly ef- makeup comes in three shades. to struggle, with sales declining by nearly fi cacious and refreshing way to reapply to incorporate daily- Nuance Salma Hayek, Colorescience, 3 percent in 2013, with only modest im- UV protection to the face and to the neck It Cosmetics and La Roche-Posay are all provement in 2014. Mintel expects future without compromising your makeup,” unveiling skin care and makeup items growth to be slow, forecasting gradual said Thaggard, who added that the mist use products in their with UV protection of SPF 50. While gains of 7 percent total by 2019. would be promoted in Sephora’s Beauty brands like Dr. Dennis Gross and Amarte To that end, the latest Euromonitor Studio, positioning it as a makeup item. assortment and bring have created sunscreens that double as Sun Care Report in the U.S. read, “It is in- According to Thaggard, the sunscreen moisturizers. Dr. Dennis Gross Dark creasingly common for sun care products brand’s top-selling stockkeeping unit in better textures into Spot Sun Defense Broad Spectrum SPF to include additional ingredients, such as Sephora is unexpectedly its non-sun related 50 Sunscreen combines melatonin and vitamin B3 and ginkgo biloba nut extract, CC Cream, which nevertheless contains SPF. vitamins C and E to prevent and also re- to provide added value, especially regard- “We’re in the process of closing 2014 these products. duce dark spots and wrinkles. Amarte ing antiaging. As a result, the distinction books and when we looked at 2012, 37 per- Ultra Veil Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid between skin care and sun care products cent of our business came in the month of — PRIYA VENKATESH, SEPHORA Broad Spectrum SPF 50 contains pure is becoming increasingly blurred, and as May,” said Thaggard. “When we compared blends cucumber, aloe vera extracts, hyal- mica, which gives skin a blurred effect. skin care has continued to co-opt SPF and that to what we have in 2014, our May sales uronic acid and broad spectrum SPF 30 to The multitasking nature of the product UVA/UVB protection, in addition to other dropped 12 percent, yet we were able to protect, refresh, soften and hydrate skin. combines UV protection and instant grat- benefi ts, it has cannibalized traditional maintain an annual compounded growth “In the future we do see ourselves ifi cation to deliver an even fi nish. sun protection products.” rate of over 85 percent. Business is getting having more products potentially in “The consumer isn’t using this SPF It’s obviously cannabalized traditional much bigger on a year-over-year basis and that makeup related space,” noted Chris product as a sunscreen product, they are skin care too. According to The NPD Group, that seasonality has leveled out.” Birchby, founder of Coola. “It’s a natural seeing it as a makeup product,” said Karen for the 12 months ending February 2015, While Supergoop seems to have found fi t with sunscreen since we believe sun- Grant, global beauty industry analyst at prestige sun care products grew 4 percent, its niche as a lifestyle brand that infuses screen should be worn everyday.” The NPD Group, of these multifunctional outpacing the prestige skin care market. sun protection in all of its products, skin As of late, consumers are embrac- items. “They are using makeup and skin There’s an increased awareness of skin care companies are differentiating them- ing daily sun protection. “In general, care sometimes interchangeably between cancer and aging, but that’s still not enough selves with innovative SPF products, leav- the awareness of sunscreen is going up the two. It’s about looking good at the be- for customers to wear sun protection year- ing traditional sun care brands behind. across all age groups,” said Venkatesh. ginning of the day and the end of day.” round. Traditional sun care brands today “Traditional sunscreen brands need “Especially young women’’ who have While a majority of consumers are have to evolve and bring consumers to their to start to incorporate daily-use prod- grown up wearing sunscreen.” using skin care and makeup interchange- endcap in January as well as July. ucts in their assortment and bring better Although Birchby wouldn’t talk fi nan- ably, Milllennials have grown up with sun “We incorporate UV protection as a textures into these products,” said Priya cials, industry sources estimate that the protection infused into their daily prod- foundation in [all] of our products,” said Venkatesh, vice president and divisional spray could do over $1 million at retail in ucts. “There’s good awareness among Holly Thaggard, founder and chief ex- merchandise manager of skin and hair its fi rst year on shelves. everybody, but certainly the millennials, Meanwhile, Salvatore that taking care of your skin in the sun is THE 10 TOP INNOVATORS WITH SPF Piazzolla, founder and ceo of a very big deal,” said Howard Kreitzman,

PRODUCT: Amarte PRODUCT: Chanel PRODUCT: Colorescience PRODUCT: Coola SPF 30 PRODUCT: Dr. Dennis PRODUCT: It Cosmetics PRODUCT: Jane Iredale PRODUCT: La Roche-Posay Ultra Veil Ultra Light CC Cream Broad Even Up Clinical Pigment Makeup Setting Spray Gross Dark Spot Sun CC+Eye SPF 50+ LipDrink Lip Balm SPF 15 Broad Spectrum SPF 50 Sunscreen Fluid Spectrum SPF 50 Perfector Broad PRICE: $36 Defense Broad Spectrum PRICE: $29 PRICE: $15 Anthelios AOX Daily Antioxidant with Broad Spectrum PRICE: $55 Spectrum SPF 50 WHY BUY: Blending SPF 50 Sunscreen WHY BUY: This concealing WHY BUY: Recommended by Serum with Sunscreen SPF 50+ WHY BUY: Chanel PRICE: $120 cucumber, aloe vera PRICE: $42 cream brightens, blurs and the Skin Cancer Foundation as PRICE: $42.50 PRICE: $45 has ramped up WHY BUY: Created to extracts, hyaluronic WHY BUY: The erases discoloration with an effective broad spectrum WHY BUY: This antiaging WHY BUY: Besides its CC cream with address uneven skin acid and broad combination of ingredients like hyaluronic sunscreen, LipDrink provides serum featuring sun botanical plant a higher SPF of tone, this claims to spectrum SPF 30, this melatonin and vitamins acid, colloidal oatmeal, SPF 15 and a powerful blend of protection contains a complex extracts, this contains 50 in addition to instantly diffuse, while setting spray protects, C and E prevents and hydrolyzed collagen, silk, antioxidants, green tea extracts of antioxidants and claims to pure mica, which gives hyaluronic acid and protecting against refreshes, softens and also reduces dark spots grapeseed oil, peptides and vitamins C and E to help correct fi ne lines, wrinkles, dark skin a blurred effect. peach extract. future damage. hydrates skin. and wrinkles. and antioxidants. protect against future damage. spots and uneven skin tone. 6 WWD FRIDAY, APRIL 10, 2015 WWD FRIDAY, APRIL 10, 2015 7

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Bloomingdale’s vice president of cos- about the dangers of sun exposure, metics and fragrances. “We see in the consumers have generally positive sun care part of the business — which associations toward getting sun and Groh Line to Launch in Salons for us is a Shiseido and Clarins busi- being tan and also tend to think about place anything; it’s additive to what others beauty By JULIE NAUGHTON ness — that it continues to grow and sunscreen in the summer months. are doing in the industry,” said Hausman, the greatest growth is coming in the “For us, to get to that year-round adding that the system is designed to com- high spf products. However, sunscreen usage, a key barrier to overcome that for SOMETIMES, THE MOST innovative prod- plement existing beauty routines. brands do have the opportunity to consumers was product aesthetic,” said ucts are simply accidental side effects of Groh’s Ergo Boost line includes Skin excel in their own arena and distin- Suzy DePrizio, Neutrogena group brand scientists trying to do something else. Such Recharging Bar, $22 for two bars; Daily guish themselves as an authority in director, sun and digital. “We were able is the case with Groh, a new organic antiag- Replenishing Supplement, $39 for 60 ’’ preventing skin damage and building to come in with our dry touch technol- ing hair- and skin-care line created by re- capsules; Hair & Scalp Conditioning Sun Care’s New Wave or strengthening brand identity.” ogy, which we introduced through our nowned immunologist Marvin Hausman. Treatment, $59 for 8 oz.; Skin Repair ecutive offi cer of Supergoop. “Then, we care at Sephora, who added that the re- Hampton Sun, noted that he’s expanding As sunscreen innovation is thriv- Ultra Sheer line, and it really has what Hausman — who in addition to being a Treatment, $42 for 2 oz., and a Lifestyle Kit By JAYME CYK think about the products that people are tailer is launching a sun-care section in- his luxury sun-care brand. “We do realize ing from skin care and makeup consumers look for, not in sun protec- board-certifi ed surgeon and immunologist is with all four products for $152. using 12 months out of the year.” store and online on May 21. The dot-com to grow we have to have a 360-degree busi- companies, Palmer’s Cocoa Butter tion, but skin care in general.” also chief executive offi cer and chairman of “The biggest drawback to most multi- THE TRADITIONAL boundary between “When people think of sunscreen in gen- landing page will feature over 15 brands ness,” he said. “Although consumers have Formula is unveiling its fi rst line of DePrizio added, “When you look Entia Biosciences Inc., Groh’s parent company vitamins is that your body doesn’t have skin care and sun protection is fading eral, it’s always that additional layer that and 25 sku’s, and will live permanently gotten more savvy and understand the need sunscreen called Eventone Sun Care at our penetration we saw that for — was actually researching autoimmune dis- the ability to process them,” said Devin faster than a summer tan. they need to add to their skin care,” added online as a menu option. An endcap fea- for sunscreen protection daily, we realized in March at Wal-Mart. Inspired by its total skin care it’s about 70 percent orders and neurogenetic diseases when he re- Andres, chief operating offi cer for Entia The classic tanning market is being Maria Sharapova, co-owner of Supergoop, turing two towers will support the sun- that we have to close the gap a little.” original Cocoa Butter Solid, the com- [of total brand sales], where sun is alized that a signifi cant Biosciences. “You challenged by a new breed of treatment who should know a thing or two about care section in the store in addition to the Also of note is the high amount of UV pany created a balm formulation that only 40 percent.” percentage of medical hope to force enough and makeup brands that have added sunscreen given her on-court life. “This is brand’s own dedicated product space. protection that companies are infusing starts as a solid and converts to an oil. Meanwhile, Target has seen fl at research deals solely in to get absorp- sun protection. something we’re trying to change.” Coola is slowing adding new catego- into their latest launches. “Women are very concerned about growth from traditional sunscreen with treating symptoms. tion, but in real- Due to the increasing popularity of more Exclusive to Sephora starting Tuesday ries to its company. In April, it will launch Prestige skin care featuring SPF 50+ dark spots and premature aging and brands and noted that some of the He set out to change ity a lot of them just versatile skin care and color cosmetics with and launching on supergoop.com today, Coola SPF 30 Organic Makeup Setting grew 18 percent in dollar sales in 2014, they really want their sun care prod- best sellers in UV protection are that by researching go out. With [the SPF, overall sun protection posted a decline the company’s newest product, Defense Spray, $18, which is a weightless mist that while SPF 15 was down 14 percent, ac- ucts to have natural ingredients,” said from its premium skin-care collec- what causes cells to Daily Replenishing of 2 percent in 2013, falling to $1.4 billion in Refresh Setting Mist SPF 50, retails for $26 cording to The NPD Group Inc. Shara Boote, senior project manager tion like Laneige BB Cushion SPF age and die, shifting Supplements] we get the U.S., according to Euromonitor and delivers UV protection while setting In May, Chanel is launching a refor- at Palmer’s Cocoa Butter. “One of 50+ Broad Spectrum Sunscreen. his focus from devel- a very high rate of ab- Mintel reported that the sun protection makeup and soothing infl ammation, en- Traditional sunscreen mulated version of its CC Cream with the things we found, especially with “Target’s guests are increasingly oping drugs for com- sorption, and the body and sunless category saw solid gains be- forces reapplication since consumers don’t SPF 50, whereas previously it only came women and dark skin tones, they focused on overall wellness, and in- panies such as Bristol- has enough resources tween 2009 and 2012, growing sales by 22 need to slather on a new layer of sunscreen. brands need to start in SPF 30. Priced at $55, the hybrid face were really turned off to this whiten- terested in using a variety of products Myers International, to allocate them to percent. However, the category is starting “There really hasn’t been a highly ef- makeup comes in three shades. ing effect that a lot of traditional sun- to help protect their skin from sun Mead Johnson The Groh lineup. the right places in the to struggle, with sales declining by nearly fi cacious and refreshing way to reapply to incorporate daily- Nuance Salma Hayek, Colorescience, screens leave on the skin.” damage,” said Christina Hennington, Pharmaceutical Co., body.” Applying the 3 percent in 2013, with only modest im- UV protection to the face and to the neck It Cosmetics and La Roche-Posay are all To that end, La Roche-Posay paid senior vice president, health and and E.R. Squibb to studying medical foods topical products reduces infl ammation, he provement in 2014. Mintel expects future without compromising your makeup,” unveiling skin care and makeup items close attention to its newest prod- beauty at Target. “Skin care and and the science of nutrigenomics, the ability added, likening its application on the scalp growth to be slow, forecasting gradual said Thaggard, who added that the mist use products in their with UV protection of SPF 50. While uct’s aesthetic to make sure this cosmetics items that contain SPF to affect genes through nutrition. “We were to fertilizing a fi eld. “The more nutrients gains of 7 percent total by 2019. would be promoted in Sephora’s Beauty brands like Dr. Dennis Gross and Amarte wasn’t just a seasonal sku. and other protective ingredients are never told about nutrition in medical school,” there are, the better for growing,” he said. To that end, the latest Euromonitor Studio, positioning it as a makeup item. assortment and bring have created sunscreens that double as “By its nature, sun-care sales have among our best sellers, and we con- said Hausman, who graduated from New York The line is rolling out to about 300 salons Sun Care Report in the U.S. read, “It is in- According to Thaggard, the sunscreen moisturizers. Dr. Dennis Gross Dark traditionally been seasonal [for La tinue to explore new ways to expand University’s School of Medicine in 1967, with in the U.S. in April, with a goal of expanding creasingly common for sun care products brand’s top-selling stockkeeping unit in better textures into Spot Sun Defense Broad Spectrum SPF Roche-Posay],” said Angela Bennett, La these offerings across premium, ex- a laugh. “I think it maybe appeared once in to 1,500 to 2,000 salons by year-end, Andres to include additional ingredients, such as Sephora is unexpectedly its non-sun related 50 Sunscreen combines melatonin and Roche-Posay vice president of market- clusive and national brands.” my biochemistry textbook.” The Hippocratic said. Also in April, Groh is partnering with vitamin B3 and ginkgo biloba nut extract, CC Cream, which nevertheless contains SPF. vitamins C and E to prevent and also re- ing, who added that the company’s new Traditional sunscreen brands have Oath’s directive — “Let food be thy medi- Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spas to offer Ergo to provide added value, especially regard- “We’re in the process of closing 2014 these products. duce dark spots and wrinkles. Amarte serum with sunscreen called Anthelios slowly started making strides. Last year, cine and medicine be thy food” — inspired Boost Aromatherapy Scalp Treatment, a $25 ing antiaging. As a result, the distinction books and when we looked at 2012, 37 per- Ultra Veil Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid AOX Daily Antioxidant Serum with Coppertone launched Clearly Sheer, a Hausman. At the top of his list: ergothioneine, add-on service which is fi ve-fold more po- between skin care and sun care products cent of our business came in the month of — PRIYA VENKATESH, SEPHORA Broad Spectrum SPF 50 contains pure Sunscreen SPF 50 protects against UV breathable daily sunscreen collection an antioxidant which he sourced from mush- tent than the at-home version. In addition to is becoming increasingly blurred, and as May,” said Thaggard. “When we compared blends cucumber, aloe vera extracts, hyal- mica, which gives skin a blurred effect. rays, corrects fi ne lines and uneven that is said to be ideal for putting on rooms. As he was exploring its possible use for the key ingredient, ergothioneine, the treat- skin care has continued to co-opt SPF and that to what we have in 2014, our May sales uronic acid and broad spectrum SPF 30 to The multitasking nature of the product skin tone. “We know from extensive re- under makeup. “We’re getting our mes- mitigating medical problems, he noted that ment includes Vitamin D2-infused argan oil, UVA/UVB protection, in addition to other dropped 12 percent, yet we were able to protect, refresh, soften and hydrate skin. combines UV protection and instant grat- search that up to 50 percent of people sage out about sunscreen and the need his patients’ skin, hair and nails were growing chia seeds, rosemary, lemon peel, lavender benefi ts, it has cannibalized traditional maintain an annual compounded growth “In the future we do see ourselves ifi cation to deliver an even fi nish. won’t wear sunscreen because they to use it year round,” said Lisa Perez, faster and remaining healthier. and sweet almond oil. Effects are said to sun protection products.” rate of over 85 percent. Business is getting having more products potentially in “The consumer isn’t using this SPF don’t like the texture.” marketing director at Coppertone. “It Using a medical delivery system he’d pat- work for two to four weeks. It’s obviously cannabalized traditional much bigger on a year-over-year basis and that makeup related space,” noted Chris product as a sunscreen product, they are The company created this serum does skew to the summer months and ented earlier, Hausman was able to target While executives declined comment on skin care too. According to The NPD Group, that seasonality has leveled out.” Birchby, founder of Coola. “It’s a natural seeing it as a makeup product,” said Karen with a sun fi lter featuring antioxidant we leverage that when consumers are ergothioneine delivery to cells in the body projected sales, industry sources estimated for the 12 months ending February 2015, While Supergoop seems to have found fi t with sunscreen since we believe sun- Grant, global beauty industry analyst at technology, while waiting for the FDA open to hearing the message.” where ergothioneine was most needed, and that the line could do $10 million to $15 mil- prestige sun care products grew 4 percent, its niche as a lifestyle brand that infuses screen should be worn everyday.” The NPD Group, of these multifunctional to approve new ingredients for its Although the message of utilizing Groh was born. “Groh isn’t intended to re- lion at retail in its fi rst year on counter. outpacing the prestige skin care market. sun protection in all of its products, skin As of late, consumers are embrac- items. “They are using makeup and skin products that guard against UVA and daily sun protection still isn’t heard There’s an increased awareness of skin care companies are differentiating them- ing daily sun protection. “In general, care sometimes interchangeably between UVB rays. Creating this multifunc- loud and clear, Sephora’s Venkatesh cancer and aging, but that’s still not enough selves with innovative SPF products, leav- the awareness of sunscreen is going up the two. It’s about looking good at the be- tional product could help increase La is predicting that the next stage in for customers to wear sun protection year- ing traditional sun care brands behind. across all age groups,” said Venkatesh. ginning of the day and the end of day.” Roche-Posay’s sales year-round. sun care will be focused on reapply- round. Traditional sun care brands today “Traditional sunscreen brands need “Especially young women’’ who have While a majority of consumers are Bennett added that Anthelios ing sunscreen, something most con- Oliver Peoples, Byredo Team Up have to evolve and bring consumers to their to start to incorporate daily-use prod- grown up wearing sunscreen.” using skin care and makeup interchange- is its largest franchise and rep- sumers forget to do. The 50-ml. fragrance, which retails for endcap in January as well as July. ucts in their assortment and bring better Although Birchby wouldn’t talk fi nan- ably, Milllennials have grown up with sun resents 40 percent of total brand “We are getting into a phase of By MARCY MEDINA $175, contains top notes of juniper berries “We incorporate UV protection as a textures into these products,” said Priya cials, industry sources estimate that the protection infused into their daily prod- business. Additionally, 60 percent beauty where using sunscreen has be- and lemon, mid notes of orris butter and foundation in [all] of our products,” said Venkatesh, vice president and divisional spray could do over $1 million at retail in ucts. “There’s good awareness among of Anthelios’ business is done be- come second nature for people,” said PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES of percep- patchouli fraction and dry notes of musks, Holly Thaggard, founder and chief ex- merchandise manager of skin and hair its fi rst year on shelves. everybody, but certainly the millennials, tween March and August. Venkatesh. “The next phase of it will tion and partnership, Los Angeles-based warm sand accord and helichrysum. The Meanwhile, Salvatore that taking care of your skin in the sun is But Mintel noted that despite in- be more awareness and people realiz- luxury eyewear brand Oliver Peoples has sunglasses, $450, come in two frame color Piazzolla, founder and ceo of a very big deal,” said Howard Kreitzman, creased efforts to educate people ing the importance of reapplication.” linked with Stockholm-based fragrance house ways, semimatte black and beige crystal, Byredo to create sunglasses and fragrance in- and three lens colors: indigo, champagne THE 10 TOP INNOVATORS WITH SPF spired by the sights and sounds of L.A. The and green. To simulate the process of buy- collaboration launches at Oliver Peoples and ing glasses, Byredo offers the bottle in cor- Byredo stores as well as Barneys New York responding colors. A box set retails for $530. on Sunday, followed by select retailers in May. “Neither of us is trying to get rich off this. It Oliver Peoples chief executive offi cer David was more about trying to take a project to an- Schulte and Byredo founder Ben Gorham, other level,” said Schulte. “We pride ourselves friends and fans of each oth- on having a singular focus in er’s products, were looking eyewear, but we are also a very for a way to work together modern company so we under- when Gorham asked Schulte stand our customer has other if he’d heard of synesthesia. brands and categories that they “It’s the connection between like.” As for whether Oliver senses where smell triggers a Peoples has more extensions color or shape,” Gorham said. planned, Schulte said, “It’s not “Perfumers describe smells as in the three- or fi ve-year plan.” colors, and a lot of musicians Barneys chief operating and artists possess it. It’s tech- offi cer and senior executive nically classifi ed as a disorder vice president Daniella Vitale but I’ve only heard of it in im- Sunglasses and perfume said it can be hard for iconic mensely creative people, so in from the collaboration. brands to do new things, but my mind it’s a gift.” she welcomes more innova- Schulte said: “I’d never heard of it, but we tive partnerships between brands and said PRODUCT: Amarte PRODUCT: Chanel PRODUCT: Colorescience PRODUCT: Coola SPF 30 PRODUCT: Dr. Dennis PRODUCT: It Cosmetics PRODUCT: Jane Iredale PRODUCT: La Roche-Posay PRODUCT: Nuance PRODUCT: Supergoop both thought it was a great way to translate that she’ll always give fl oor space to unique Ultra Veil Ultra Light CC Cream Broad Even Up Clinical Pigment Makeup Setting Spray Gross Dark Spot Sun CC+Eye SPF 50+ LipDrink Lip Balm SPF 15 Broad Spectrum SPF 50 Salma Hayek Sheer Defense Refresh Setting sight into smell.” Byredo’s perfumer Jérôme products. “It gets harder to hold onto niche Sunscreen Fluid Spectrum SPF 50 Perfector Broad PRICE: $36 Defense Broad Spectrum PRICE: $29 PRICE: $15 Anthelios AOX Daily Antioxidant Liquid Veil SPF 50 Mist with Rosemary Epinette and Oliver Peoples founder, de- brands as companies expand faster, so we with Broad Spectrum PRICE: $55 Spectrum SPF 50 WHY BUY: Blending SPF 50 Sunscreen WHY BUY: This concealing WHY BUY: Recommended by Serum with Sunscreen PRICE: $9.99 Broad Spectrum SPF 50 signer and creative director Larry Leight set try and take chances early on. Anything Ben SPF 50+ WHY BUY: Chanel PRICE: $120 cucumber, aloe vera PRICE: $42 cream brightens, blurs and the Skin Cancer Foundation as PRICE: $42.50 WHY BUY: Acting PRICE: $26 about Los Angeles, literally viewing places does is magic for us, and Oliver Peoples’ vi- PRICE: $45 has ramped up WHY BUY: Created to extracts, hyaluronic WHY BUY: The erases discoloration with an effective broad spectrum WHY BUY: This antiaging as a skin primer WHY BUY: Meant through various colored lenses, then created sion and aesthetic is always on the forefront. WHY BUY: Besides its CC cream with address uneven skin acid and broad combination of ingredients like hyaluronic sunscreen, LipDrink provides serum featuring sun and hydrator, for sunscreen a scent and a frame to capture the sensations. It’s like they were made for each other.” botanical plant a higher SPF of tone, this claims to spectrum SPF 30, this melatonin and vitamins acid, colloidal oatmeal, SPF 15 and a powerful blend of protection contains a complex Sheer Liquid reapplication, this mist “The idea was that different colored The launch corresponds with the open- extracts, this contains 50 in addition to instantly diffuse, while setting spray protects, C and E prevents and hydrolyzed collagen, silk, antioxidants, green tea extracts of antioxidants and claims to Veil incorporates sets makeup, controls lenses could be used to capture different ing of Byredo’s fi rst New York retail store on pure mica, which gives hyaluronic acid and protecting against refreshes, softens and also reduces dark spots grapeseed oil, peptides and vitamins C and E to help correct fi ne lines, wrinkles, dark tepezcohuite bark to oil and protects against perspectives of a smell of L.A. It’s taking a Wooster Street, which will be eight times the skin a blurred effect. peach extract. future damage. hydrates skin. and wrinkles. and antioxidants. protect against future damage. spots and uneven skin tone. fi rm and smooth skin. photoaging UV rays. step away from what might be obvious and size of its Stockholm store. Gorham is next letting the perfumer use his own impres- exploring a way to incorporate metal into his sions from traveling here, as well as ideas brand, possibly with jewelry. The company

PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY he had from the past,” Gorham said. launched a line of leather bags last year. 8 WWD Friday, april 10, 2015 Coach, Inter Parfums Sign Deal beauty Benacin said looking ahead, a new women’s By JenniFer weiL fragrance for Coach should come out in late 2016. inter Parfums Sa will use its international distribu- PariS — The French stock market responded fa- tion network to sell Coach fragrances. vorably Thursday to the news that inter Parfums “as our brand transformation continues to prog- Commodity Rolls Out Sa and Coach inc. had signed an 11-year global li- ress, and with inter Parfums as our partner, we censing agreement for Coach fragrances. know we can leverage this category into a much The share price of inter Parfums Sa, the Paris- larger global opportunity,” stated victor Luis, ceo Mix Bars in Sephora based subsidiary of inter Parfums inc. of new york, of Coach. “given inter Parfums’ successful track h uzenlaub noted closed the day up 4.8 percent to 32.46 euros, or record of cultivating and growing fragrance lines By raCheL Brown Commodity’s web site is still $34.59 at current exchange. for fashion and luxury goods brands, they were the at the core of its business. inter Parfums is to create, produce and distrib- ideal choice to take our business to the next level.” CommoDiTy iS encouraging Customers, who break down ute new fragrances and fragrance-related products inter Parfums Sa has been acquisitive of late, last Sephora customers to make roughly 55 percent female to department and specialty stores, duty-free shops month buying rochas’ fashion and fragrance businesses. fragrances their way. and 45 percent male, order and Coach stores starting in fall 2016. with incremental sales from rochas and Coach Last month, the specialty three fragrances on average “it makes sense to have this brand today be- activities, the company is moving toward the level beauty retailer rolled out so- online. Scents are priced cause we have no other that competes with this one of business it had in 2012 — which was at more called mix bars filled with eight from $24 for 10 ml. to $99 for in the portfolio,” Philippe Benacin, chairman and than 400 million euros, or $514.4 million at average of the niche fragrance brand’s 100 ml. The brand’s smaller chief executive officer of inter Parfums Sa, told exchange for the year — prior to the termination of scents to 35 locations, where sizes are its most popular. wwD. “The fragrance is very much american. it’s its Burberry fragrance and beauty license. shoppers can whip up fra- Commodity has concen- another way of telling the story.” as reported, inter Parfums Sa’s 2014 revenues grance cocktails from a variety trated its efforts on 10 fra- it is understood Coach is winding down its fra- reached 297.1 million euros, or $395 million. of ingredients (in Commodity grances (the original assort- grance and beauty license with the estée Lauder inter Parfums, which has 12 fragrance brands parlance, an old Fashioned is ment contained 20) across Cos. inc.’s BeautyBank division, which was signed including Balmain and van Cleef & arpels, is gear- concocted from its mimosa and its black and white lines. in 2006. Under estée Lauder, the accessories and ing up for a major Jimmy Choo launch in the sec- whiskey scents, for example) or Fragrances in the black line fashion label launched two fragrance franchises — ond half of 2015, plus several montblanc projects, take their scents neat. outside tend to be moodier and fra- a signature line and Poppy. among other initiatives. of the mix bars, almost 100 grances in the white line tend Sephora doors across the U.S. to be lighter, but there is no and Canada carry Commodity’s specific gender delineation. two best-selling scents, moss introduced to Commodity and gold. last october, huzenlaub, man- ShadeScout Makeup App Launches “what we were looking to aging director of growth man- Users can virtually try on the do at Sephora was an inter- agement firm ashco group By Faye Brookman products from categories includ- active experience that other in London, said, “i saw the ing lip, eye, blush, bronzer and brands don’t currently offer. kickstarter video and, from The growing Bevy of beauty foundation and then share a For us, it is about collections there, went out to L.a. and apps offers everything from online photo through an in-app option and cocktails, and finding your met with the [founding] team. scheduling for an at-home blowout for feedback. There’s a buy button own unique scent,” said ash i was really fascinated with to determining if a brand tests on linking most of the prestige items huzenlaub, chief executive of- what they were doing. i drew animals. The newest app address- to sephora.com, the mass items go ficer of Commodity goods inc., parallels to Sweet Leaf, [a tea es the common refrain, “i want directly to the vendor’s site. brand sold to nestle in 2011 what she’s wearing.” Smith thinks the app will ap- that he previously worked ShadeScout, from FaceCake peal both to brick-and-mortar and with]. Based on what i saw marketing Technologies inc., al- e-commerce shoppers. “it was im- from the response through so- lows users to capture a shade, portant for this to be mobile,” ex- cial media, this was going to search a menu of brands offering plained Smith, noting people might be something exciting.” the hue, virtually try it on, share use it in a store to find a shade to Commodity was created by with friends and even order on- complement a dress or other make- Los angeles marketing agency line if they don’t choose to visit up. She also believes users will dis- Ferroconcrete as an accessible, a store. “with ShadeScout, any- A look at the ShadeScout app. cover up-and-coming brands they modern, digitally driven fra- thing you see is a color that can then be tried on, didn’t know existed. Loyalists can use a filter to search grance brand. members of the whether it is a red-carpet look, a cranberry in a store by brand. another benefit is that consumers can uncover brand’s founding team include or the blue sky,” explained Linda Smith, founder and items to match a favorite shade that has been discontin- Jason yeh, currently a mem- chief executive officer of FaceCake. ued. in test marketing, eye shadow is a popular search, ber of Samsung’s Think Tank The free app, launching today for both ioS and but the incidence of blush has been a surprise to Smith. Commodity’s Gold scent. Team; yo Santosa, creative di- android, uses the camera on mobile phones or tablets to To support ShadeScout, FaceCake plans editorial rector at Ferroconcrete; Sung capture a coveted color. an automated web crawler and content such as what colors are selling best in differ- adding, “Traditionally, prod- noh, engineer at Ferroconcrete proprietary color-search technology sifts through more ent markets or shade reports from red-carpet events. ucts in fragrance are marketed and chief technology officer at than 10,000 products in the color database delivering op- The eight-year-old FaceCake is a pioneer in augment- by highly paid personalities. Commodity, and owen gee, a tions to match that hue from more than 40 major luxury ed retail, known for its virtual try-on capabilities such as we wanted this to be about you, former Ferroconcrete art direc- and mass brands ranging from Laura mercier to revlon. Swivel virtual Dressing room and Digital Beauty Bar. the consumer, and not about tor who serves at Commodity’s any famous actress or actor.” chief creative officer. Commodity has entered Commodity has attracted Sephora at a time when niche an audience of around 9,700 fragrance brands have been followers on instagram that Brazil’s Beauty Market Up 11 Percent bright spots in a fragrance seg- huzenlaub described as ex- “right now, cash flows are hedged for the most im- ment that, on the whole, has tremely engaged with the By ivan CaSTano portant players,” he said. “The real weakness may be lost luster. artemis Patrick, brand. Followers regularly something to keep an eye for in the future.” senior vice president of mer- post pictures of the brand’s meXiCo CiTy — Brazil’s beauty market, the as some consumers begin trading down, the chandising for Sephora, said, products, showcasing its clas- world’s third largest, grew 11 percent to 102 bil- mass market segment (particularly basic toiletries) “Sephora has a rich history sic, simple design sensibility. lion reals ($33.4 billion at current exchange) in is set to gain strongly this year when analysts fore- of being a champion for new “There has been zero advertis- 2014 as Brazilians continued to buy cosmetics cast it could grow 7 to 8 percent. and uniquely differentiated ing. This has all been people with gusto, despite anemic economic growth in andrade noted direct sellers including natura brands. The Commodity phi- telling their friends on Twitter, the overall economy, according to the industry and avon will continue to struggle amid local and losophy and approach to per- Facebook or instagram. other lobbying group abihpec. international competition. sonalized fragrance experi- industries that i have been “This very strong growth is not surprising, de- andrade said natura “is doing very badly,” with ences, via their singular and involved in, traditional adver- spite the macro landscape we are going through,” earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and ‘cocktail’ concept, is dynamic tising is needed to move the said BTg Pactual analyst Thiago andrade. “gross amortization margins down 500 basis points in the in strategy while being fun for needle and here it just takes domestic product is struggling, but that hasn’t re- past three years, hurt by aggressive marketing spend- our fragrance clients.” communicating on social ally affected people on a day-to-day basis. inflation ing to keep up with expansionist drugstores and spe- Sephora initially contacted media,” huzenlaub said. is higher, but unemployment has not yet started.” cialist brands such as hypermarcas or L’occitane. Commodity two years ago be- he said private entrepre- a strong Brazilian beauty culture is also helping. meanwhile, abihpec’s president, João Carlos fore the brand’s products were neurs have funded Commodity, “it’s a cultural trait,” andrade added. “People re- Basilio, said heavy spending on marketing and adver- even available. The brand had although he wouldn’t reveal the ally dedicate their wallet share to beauty.” tising helped buoy last year’s sales. Such expenditures initiated a kickstarter cam- names of those entrepreneurs in a down economy, for example, “women may now equal roughly 30 percent of industry revenues. paign that would ultimately or the brand’s financial results. go to the hair salon every two weeks instead of once The men’s, children’s and hair-care circuits post- raise more than $56,000, near- The brand plans extensions in a week and could trade down on product lines.” ed strong gains while sun and hair-care products ly triple its goal, and launch the beauty and home catego- Despite problems suffered by some major beauty also saw brisk sales. according to Basilio, the chil- its scent-tailoring concept. ries with fragrance remaining players, analysts said industry margins also remain dren’s segment grew 14 percent to 4.5 billion reals The concept is centered upon its prime focus. asked about strong, with direct sellers and multiformat retail- in the past five years, with hair sales accounting for a fitting kit or a sample pack Commodity’s performance ers, such as drugstores, enjoying gross margins of 24 percent of the global total. of Commodity’s range of fra- at Sephora so far, huzenlaub more than 65 percent of sales. The men’s segment also saw growth double to 11 grances that customers can disclosed, “we have had great regarding the crisis in the real — which has billion reals since 2010, Basilio added. buy online for $24 and experi- numbers.” industry sources es- plunged to a 10-year low amid the economic woes Brazil’s beauty industry ranks third behind the ment with prior to settling on timated that the line could do in Latin america’s top economy — andrade said U.S. and China. it accounts for 1.8 percent of gross do- their favorite scents and re- $2 million to $3 million at retail companies import product six to 12 months in ad- mestic product and 53 percent of the Latin american ceiving full-size bottles. in its first year on counter. vance so the current slump is not affecting them. market, according to abihpec. 2.5x7 (right)

WWD Friday, april 10, 2015 9 WWD.COM

H&M: Sustainability a Force Fast Retailing Boosts Outlook growth. Those adjustments resulted in By kelly WeTHerille net financial income of 13.5 billion yen, Behind Long-term Success or $117.45 million, the company said. Tokyo — fast retailing Co. ltd., asia’s first-half operating income rose 40.2 showing that it can be done. There are largest apparel retailer, has raised its percent to 150.08 billion yen, or $1.31 bil-

By Paulina Szmydke still a lot of companies or sectors [that] full-year net profit forecast by 20 per- lion. first-half net sales grew 24.2 per- and lorelei marfil are hiding behind this line, ‘it cannot be cent, citing strong sales at uniqlo stores cent to 949.68 billion yen, or $8.26 billion. done because we can’t control our sup- in Japan, continued growth overseas uniqlo saw an 8.4 percent rise in PariS — Hennes & mauritz aB continues ply chain,’ and i realize it’s complex…it and a weak yen. same-store sales at its Japanese outlets on its path to maximum sustainability. doesn’t happen by itself. People need to fast retailing said Thursday that during the half. in its 13th annual conscious ac- collaborate. organizations need to col- it expects net profit of 120 billion yen, The fast-fashion retailer’s interna- tions sustainability’’ report published laborate. The sector needs to change so or $999.95 million, for the fiscal year tional business also continued its robust Thursday, the Swedish fast-fashion you also need to engage the governments through august, versus a prior estimate growth, generating revenue of 345.5 bil- giant said 80 percent of its electricity of the countries where these products of 100 billion yen, or $833.29 million. if lion yen, or $3.01 billion, up 48.9 percent use would come from renewable sourc- are coming from.” it reaches this figure, it will represent year-on-year. Business was especially es by the end of 2015, up from the cur- Peter mcallister, director of ethical net profit growth of 61 percent over the strong in China, Hong kong, Taiwan and rent 27 percent. Trading initiative, an alliance of busi- previous year. South korea. The retailer reported it would also in- nesses and trade unions that promotes Tadashi yanai, fast retailing’s chair- yanai has said he aims to grow the crease the amount of products made from workers’ rights, noted: “What drives man, president and chief executive officer, company to become the world’s number- recycled fibers by 300 percent by yearend. me mad is that not enough board mem- said the company is lifting its targets on one apparel manufacturer and retailer. in 2014, H&m collected 13,000 tons bers think that [sustainability] is actu- the back of fast growth in uniqlo’s interna- He is expecting to reach sales of 2.5 tril- of textiles for reuse through its in-store ally a business issue. Sometimes, i’m tional markets, especially Greater China lion yen, or $20.83 billion, three years garment-collecting program. That’s an quite pleased about that because they and South korea, and strong sales of core from now, and sales of 5 trillion yen, or equivalent of 65 million T-shirts. By will fail and then get out of the way. products at uniqlo outlets in Japan. $41.66 billion, within about five years. 2020, that number is expected to rise to People are going to know that you can fast retailing is expecting operating international expansion is a key 100,000 tons. make fantastic products, you can make profit of 200 billion yen, or $1.67 billion, component of the growth strategy. up from its previous estimate of 180 bil- He said Thursday that the number of lion yen, or $1.5 billion, and an increase uniqlo stores outside Japan will sur- of 53.4 percent over last year. reuters’ av- pass the number of stores in Japan by H&M is…showing that it can be done. There erage forecast of 22 analysts was for prof- the fall. as of march 31, the company its of 197.25 billion yen, or $1.64 billion. had 840 stores in Japan. are still a lot of companies or sectors [that] The company also raised its net sales in north america, uniqlo has plans forecast, from 1.6 trillion yen, or $13.33 to enter new areas, including Chicago are hiding behind this line, ‘It cannot be done billion, to 1.65 trillion yen, or $13.75 bil- this fall, followed by denver and Seattle. lion. This new estimate would represent The first uniqlo store in Washington, because we can’t control our supply chain.’ year-on-year growth of 19.3 percent. d.C., is expected in spring 2016, and an in its September-february fiscal first entry into the Canadian market is slot- half, fast retailing’s net profit grew 56.2 ted for fall of the same year. yanai has — Janet Mensink, solidaridad percent to 104.75 billion yen, or $911.33 said there is a possibility that the com- meanwhile, with its recycled polyester money, you can get consumer interests. million at average exchange rates for pany will set up a new production center products, the brand recycled the equiva- The competitiveness in this industry is the period. The company said currency closer to north america. Currently, fast lent of almost 40 million PeT bottles. fierce. So let’s use that energy,” he said, translation adjustments on the back retailing conducts the bulk of its manu- To increase transparency, the compa- encouraging consumers and media to of a weak yen helped propel earnings facturing in asia. ny also decided to expand its public sup- speak up and show that there is a way plier list to include second-tier compa- forward, because “there are companies nies, which provide its “most important who are prepared to invest and change,” mills” with fabrics and yarns, responsible he added. for about 35 percent of H&m products. “it is really important to know that in addition, the retailer said it we can engage our customers, but that is launched a new “animal-welfare road not the only driving force for us when it WWD PRINT SUBSCRIBERS: map” with the goal to use 100 percent comes to sustainability,”’’ explained anna certified wool starting in 2017 and certi- Gedda, H&m’s head of sustainability. fied down beginning this year. “for us, it is really about securing long- PLEASE GIVE US YOUR Separately in london, H&m hosted a term. We need to have a sustainable re- panel discussion on fashion and sustain- sources supply to have a stable produc- EMAIL ADDRESS ability, where it covered various topics tion market and, of course, we want to ranging from the rana Plaza disaster make sure that the customers in the fu- to how brands can incorporate sustain- ture will care more about sustainability.” DON’T MISS OUT ON THE ability in their designs. Talking about “The key word in here is showing labels and designers developing a more what happens in the factory and also NEW DAILY DIGITAL EDITION! green-friendly attitude, Janet mensink being open about the investment and the at Solidaridad, a company that focuses gains businesswise,” mensink said. “it is on sustainable supply chains, believed it not just about wages or safety or chemi- could be achieved. cals. all these leading brands, they are On April 29th, the print edition of WWD will re-launch in a “What drives me crazy is that there seeing it as a holistic approach and they is more opportunity and it is doable to are transparent. i don’t believe hiding weekly glossy format. The final edition of the daily newspaper make it in a more environmental and behind a loophole is good businesswise socially friendly way,” she lamented, in terms of achieving sustainability in in its current format will be on April 24, 2015. adding, “H&m is leading in that and the long run.”

Beginning with the April 27th issue, we’ll produce a curated Jennings Joins Hema Board Daily Digital edition of WWD that will reflect the top stories few years.” volume currently stands at of the day. It will be emailed to you before you wake up each By david moin almost 1.2 billion euros, or $1.3 billion. Jennings said he will be spending andreW JenninGS HaS landed an- about six days a month on the Hema business day! other gig — chairman of the superviso- assignment. He also serves as a se- ry board of Hema, the european chain nior retail adviser to myer department owned by the British investment firm Stores in australia and majid al futtaim lion Capital. ventures in the middle east, and as a In order to ensure that you receive the Daily Digital, Hema, which operates about 600 non-executive director at Ted Baker. stores across the netherlands, france, during his career, Jennings has held please go to wwd-email.com or call 1-866-401-7801 Germany and Spain and recently began the top slots at karstadt in Germany, opening units in the u.k., also named Holt renfrew in Canada, Harrods and to provide or update your email address. Tjeerd Jegen as chief executive of- House of fraser in london, Woolworths ficer. Jegen was a managing director in South africa, and Saks fifth avenue for Woolworths australia and earlier in new york. held senior roles at royal ahold, metro “although the dutch retail market is Group and Tesco. facing significant challenges, andrew “Hema is a modern-day version of the and Tjeerd will build on the strength and original variety store, like the former heritage of the Hema brand, continuing f.W. Woolworth’s,” Jennings told WWd. to drive Hema’s development strategy “The opportunities are international ex- and ensuring the company’s long-term pansion and e-commerce. We can grow success,” said robert darwent, a mem- the business substantially over the next ber of Hema’s supervisory board.

WWD_QuarterPgAd3.indd 1 3/27/15 5:02 PM 10 WWD FRIDAY, APRIL 10, 2015

A Paul McCarthy sculpture with For Laura Skoler and Susan Feinstein. Dior

Standing Tall FOR ITS SPRING GALA turned out here not to Irina Liss in Dior eye Wednesday night, the snicker around another with Frédéric Tcheng. New Museum asked three one of McCarthy’s gags artists to donate works for but nominally to pay an auction. Mary Heilmann tribute to Dodie Kazanjian, THE FILMMAKER Frédéric of archival footage from the gave up one of her colorful the former Nancy Reagan Tcheng was in New York house’s early days then cuts to canvasses and Ed Ruscha press secretary turned Tuesday night at the historic a simple title card that glosses offered one of his word Vogue contributor, and her Metropolitan Club on the over a lot of inconvenient paintings. But they were husband, the longtime New Upper East Side. history: “55 Years Later.” upstaged, as is his wont, by Yorker critic Calvin Tomkins, He had just shown his new Over eight weeks in the Paul McCarthy. Right there “The Adam and Eve of documentary “Dior & I,” about summer of 2012, Tcheng in one of Cipriani Wall art writing,” as the slick the making of Raf Simons’ fi rst followed Simons; his right- Street’s grand halls, the Italian curator Massimiliano haute couture collection for hand man, Pieter Mulier; various museum had installed one Gioni described them. the venerable French house, executives, like the irascible of McCarthy’s sculptures But it was hard not to and was anxious about the Catherine Rivière, who keeps tabs resembling sex toys, a linger around McCarthy’s reaction from the 90 or so on important couture clients, smaller-scale version of handiwork to talk about it regular Christian Dior clients and the master premières as the phallic monument he some more, particularly in attendance, like actress they toil away translating the Fernando erected last fall in Paris’ when Jeff Koons was in the Sigourney Weaver. designer’s vision into reality. Mastrangelo Place Vendôme to much vicinity. Was it a joke? A The subjects of the fi lm, Of course, we all know how with Boyd public outcry. dare? Koons was intrigued. Simons and the members of the story ends. Twenty years Holbrook in A ribbed, bright The two artists have enjoyed the famed atelier, were not in after Isaac Mizrahi documented Dior Homme. Crayola-blue monolith, a long and healthy rivalry, attendance — there’s a cruise the making of his fall 1994 this one looked almost or more like an aspiring collection to fi nish, after all — ready-to-wear collection in solemn on a pedestal rivalry, since Koons looms and maybe that’s for the best. “Unzipped,” plus many under its own spotlight. so large above everyone For all intents and purposes, years of reality TV, In France, McCarthy may else in the art world today. it’s the Dior clients who audiences are primed for have caused a scandal, but He sits at the very top of are the intended audience the format that follows: here the piece was merely the heap while McCarthy of this legacy-burnishing episodes of drama and the subject of passing has been shooting spitballs documentary. tension (the fabric fascination, a curious in his direction from the Filmed almost a year specialists can’t get artifact that at least offered sidelines, like the infl atable after the annus horribilis a print right; Rivière some amusement for the dog he erected outside the that saw the dismissal of sends a seamstress gala-weary. Onlookers Frieze Art Fair two years as John Galliano, “Dior & I” to care for a couture approached it gingerly, not a comment on Koons’ own seeks to play directly to client at the expense sure whether to take its Balloon Dogs series. their emotions, to serve of the collection) picture or pose with it. Talk Not that Koons holds any as a reminder of their that culminate with a about a selfi e stick. grudges. bond with the label itself personal triumph. Francisco Costa seemed “It looks great,” he said rather than the designer Along the way, riveted as he snapped about the McCarthy. “I at the helm. there are moments away with abandon. “It’s love the color. I like the When he approached of candor and amazing,” he said. “It’s form, the materials. I love Dior about the project, genuine emotion. kind of a Klein blue, but everything about it, even Tcheng pitched a fi lm Lake In one scene, Simons not. An acid Klein.” Was he the base.” In any case, this about the making Bell confesses: “I fi nd myself planning on bidding on it? town seems big enough for of extraordinary in Dior. in a situation where the “No, thank you very much.” the two of them. Lonti Ebers, garments. audience sees me as a A good chunk of the the vice president of the “I knew the atelier would minimalist. I’m not.” art world — John Currin museum’s board of trustees, play a huge part in this story,” The audience at the and Rachel Feinstein, Aby won the sex toy during the he said. “I described it as Paris Theater lapped it and Samantha Rosen, Cindy auction. Price: $200,000. an ensemble story. It wasn’t all up. They predictably Sherman, Marilyn Minter — — E.M. just a designer, it was about a responded to the humble, team of people. I remember relatable master seamstresses someone saying that the and tailors of the atelier. Sigourney Weaver designer was like a conductor “I’ve always admired their in Dior. and without the orchestra work because they’re the ones he couldn’t play.” How could working the hardest,” said the Dior say no? It was a perfect model Aymeline Valade, who plays message to communicate to a Betty Catroux in another fi lm Aymeline Valade jittery couture clientele after about fashion, the upcoming in Dior. years devoted to the cult of “Saint Laurent.” personality around one very Weaver dutifully waited colorful creative director. around to personally thank, in Like another recent fashion fl awless French, the fi lmmaker documentary, “Scatter My for his work. Ashes at Bergdorf ’s,” Tcheng’s “I was so moved,” she said. fi lm ends up being a masterful “To meet all those wonderful exercise in brand-building. people making the collection Lauren It is telling that at one point, was really a thrill, to see how Santo a master tailor tells the camera: much it meant to everyone. It Domingo “The designer may change at will show people a different Dior, but one thing that never side of fashion.” changes: the atelier.” In other words, message FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE The movie opens with a delivered. Before walking brief voice-over reading of out, everyone got a bag with WWD.com/eye. the couturier’s autobiography, a quaint book tucked inside, Jeff Koons

“Dior by Dior,” over a montage “Dior by Dior.” — ERIK MAZA DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/GETTY STEVE EICHNER BELL BY IMAGES FOR DIOR; ALL OTHERS BY 2.5x7 (right)

WWD FRIDAY, APRIL 10, 2015 11 WWD.COM Co., received $26.2 million in total director Alber Elbaz, a stack of white cards compensation last year, according to forever at his elbow, sketched out a heart a definitive proxy, or Form14A, filed — and that magic number with its string Fashion scoops Thursday with the Securities and of zeros — as a way of offering “heartfelt exchange Commission. That amount thanks” to fans of the French house. Its included a base salary of $1.4 million; atmospheric posts include runway looks, PHARRELL’S LATEST GIG: Pharrell Williams and Williams will select his favorite bonus of $1.6 million, and stock awards eiffel tower snaps, accessories close-ups seems to be every brand’s favorite T-shirts, which will then be produced valued at $20.8 million. Included in and elbaz’s quirky drawings. collaborator these days. Woolworths, the and sold in Woolworths stores across the compensation package were one- Asked how he feels being a South African department store chain, is South Africa. Winners will also time incentive payments, such as the millionaire, elbaz replied: “I will the latest to snap up the award-winning receive a cash prize amounting to $1.6 million payment made when the answer that question when I will be an multiplatform artist, naming him style around $2,000. company was still Fifth & Pacific before Instagram billionaire!” As for which director of a forthcoming sustainable- Williams will be heading to South the change to Kate Spade & Co. Leavitt kinds of posts he prefers, he cited fashion collaboration. A Woolworths Africa in September for a concert tour, started his position on Feb. 25, 2014. “images that don’t make me feel that I spokesperson said that the partnership and school groups will compete for a Former ceo William McComb also just have small and boring life.” was a strategic one, “grounded in a chance to sing with him on stage. The received $26.2 million in total Lanvin still has a way to go before strong set of shared values.” event will be exclusive to members compensation, but his consisted of catching up to Louis Vuitton, which At a press conference Thursday at of WRewards, Woolworths’ in-house severance payments and the vesting of counts 4.4 million followers on Instagram. the Four Seasons Westcliff Hotel in customer loyalty program. stock options. He received $6.5 million other fashion names with seven-digit Johannesburg, Ian Moir, chief executive Williams praised Woolworths as a in severance consisting of $2.6 million in bragging rights include Michael Kors at officer of Woolworths Holdings, Ltd., said company providing “a global blueprint cash, or two times his base salary; $3.9 3.8 million, Chanel at 3.7 million, and he was hoping that “Pharrell will help for how good businesses should do million representing two times his annual Burberry at 3.1 million. — MILES SOCHA us make sustainability cool for the next good business.” bonus target and prorated annual cash generation of South Africans,” adding The new collaboration, he added, bonus for 2014 of $299,178. He also was HIT REPEAT: Dior Homme presented a that the musician is “a global icon for was to call on everyone “to work approved by the board for the vesting of repeat performance of its fall collection social cohesion, advancement through together to uplift education in South 855,000 outstanding and unvested non- Wednesday evening at the opera house education and environmental awareness Africa. For food farming that goes easy qualified stock options, valued at $18.2 in Guangzhou, China. This is the brand’s — these same values lie at the heart of on the planet. And to create fashion that million. McComb also received 24 months third time presenting a runway show our business and form the foundation on is just not cool, but also sustainable.” of continuation of benefits for medical, in China, following events in Beijing in which this partnership is built.” The Woolworths collaboration dental, vision and long-term disability 2013 and a 2014 show in Shanghai. “It The collaboration includes a forms part of Williams’ “Harmonizing and life insurance programs. was a privilege to return to China with sustainable T-shirt design competition, Humanity” effort launched earlier this The company will hold its annual our runway show. As this collection plays which is a tie-up with Bionic Yarn, year at Davos. — BAMBINA WISE meeting on May 19 at 10 a.m. at its office with codes of a techno-sartorial elegance, a company that creates fabric out in North Bergen, N.J. — VICKI M. YOuNG showing it in Guangzhou puts it in a of recycled plastic waste. Design KATE COMPENSATION: Craig Leavitt, chief new perspective,” said Kris Van Assche, students are invited to submit designs executive officer of Kate Spade & PRESIDENT, FATHER: The Father’s Day Dior Homme’s artistic director. Similar Council has snagged George W. Bush as this to its Paris show, which was presented year’s honoree for its annual Father of the in January, the Dior Homme runway Year Awards. He will join Morris Goldfarb, featured an orchestra — this time the American Apparel,” the ad reads. “In chief executive officer of G-III Apparel Guangzhou symphonic orchestra — that fact, women make up 55 percent of our Group at the event, which will be held on played original music composed by MeMo pad global workforce (sorry, guys) and an June 18 at the New York Hilton Hotel. French producer Koudlam, who made a even higher percentage of our leadership — JEAN E. PALMIERI surprise appearance that night at the Zaha AMERICAN APPAREL’S ONLY VICE: American and executive roles. This structure is Hadid-designed opera house. Apparel’s advertising and marketing incredibly (and unfortunately) rare in the MAGIC NuMBER: Lanvin has joined a rare Chinese celebrities Dou Xiao, Zhang strategy to appeal to women might corporate world.” club on social media, amassing more than Huiwen and Chen Bige were also in need to be reconsidered. In order to American Apparel confirmed that a million followers on Instagram. Creative attendance. — ARIA HuGHES help remake its image following the it only ran the ad in Vice, which isn’t risqué reign of founder and former exactly known as female friendly. “We chief executive officer Dov Charney, the have had a great relationship with Los Angeles-based Vice for years and retailer placed its plan on continuing first pro-women ad to work closely on the back page of with them on future Vice magazine, an odd campaigns and choice to say the least. partnerships,” said Charney was senior vice president ousted last year of marketing Cynthia after the ceo and Erland. It’s likely not the company battled a coincidence that numerous sexual the ad ran in Ellis harassment lawsuits. Jones’ first issue as He was replaced editor in chief of the by a female ceo, magazine. Jones, Paula Schneider. who was appointed Since she’s taken in February, recently over, the company’s told New York sexually charged, Magazine that her controversial ads role entails bringing have been more or in a new audience, to less sanitized. make them “realize The recent ad, The American Apparel ad in Vice. it’s not a lad’s mag, which reads “Hello and that we don’t Ladies” in block letters, depicts various just do d--k and fart jokes.” smiling female American Apparel Perhaps they’ll also realize that employees who are identified in a small American Apparel isn’t a lad’s brand block of text by title and first name only, either — at least, that’s what the along with their start date at the firm. retailer seems to hope. “Women have always been in charge at — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD REACH THE NRF Forms Research Center FASHION INDUSTRY’S executive officer Matthew Shay. “And, TOP TALENT By DAVID MoIN our advocates will have the facts they need to advance retail’s policy agenda.” THe NATIoNAL ReTAIL Federation is Shay said forming the center is a “mul- getting deeper into the research. timillion-dollar” investment. The Washington, D.C.-based trade or- ellen Davis has been named NRF’s ganization said it has formed the Retail senior vice president of research and stra- Research and Analysis Center, which tegic initiatives. She will also continue as will focus on the economy, legislative executive director of the NRF Foundation. and regulatory policy, the retail indus- A search is under way for a vice try and consumers. “By significantly president of research development and WWD CAREERS.COM investing in the future expansion and industry analysis, who will report to PRINT & ONLINE PACKAGES AVAILABLE scope of NRF research, our members Davis. The NRF also said current staff will have additional tools and insight as and consultant resources are being uti- Contact Tiffany Windju at 310.484.2537 or [email protected] they operate in a very dynamic market- lized and additional dedicated staffing place,” said NRF president and chief is anticipated. 12 WWD FRIDAY, APRIL 10, 2015 ’’ John Varvatos to Show at N.Y.: Men’s {Continued from page one} Skylight Clarkson Sq in SoHo. Amazon, but I can’t say long-term,” he said. “We Like the other men’s designers who John Varvatos and Steven Kolb DreamWorks and Shinola have signed have to create something that will make have signed on, Varvatos said showing on to sponsor the shows and Kolb said at people take notice.” men’s at the same time as women’s in least two additional sponsors have com- Varvatos, whose New York shows were September makes no sense. “It’s three mitted to participate, although he’s with- always celebrity-fi lled spectacles, plans months too late,” he said. “I would have holding the names until the fi nal con- to do his part to make that happen by shown June 18 in Milan, but in New York, I’d have had to show on Sept. 10 or 12. We’re into the next season by that time and every retailer and editor has already I’m an American designer, we’re an American seen the collection.” So while he was initially reluctant to brand and New York City is my home, cancel his plans for Milan since the city has allowed him to gain global attention, eventually his patriotism won out. so we thought it was the right time. Steven Kolb, chief executive offi cer of the CFDA, said, “John Varvatos is quint- — JOHN VARVATOS essentially American, a leading men’s wear brand, a global success, and the tracts are signed. “We’re fully funded,” doing “something special here.” He will CFDA is proud to welcome John back he stressed. One of these is expected to show at Skylight Clarkson Sq, so will be home. Having him show during New be Cadillac, according to sources. limited by the size of that space, “but we York Fashion Week: Men’s solidifi es our Kolb added that at this point, there still want to do a great show and present efforts and emphasizes the importance of are more designers who want to partici- the collection properly. There’s no rea- New York City as an international infl u- pate than the venue has space to accom- son to come back if it’s not impactful.” ence on the business of men’s wear.” modate. “We’re fi lling it up now with the Kolb said the CFDA didn’t provide any He said Varvatos’ “homecoming really right people,” he said. special fi nancial incentives to get Varvatos throws weight behind what we’re doing. The support from the men’s wear commu- to move back to New York. “Nothing differ- But he’s been supportive all along.” nity has been encouraging, Kolb said. “When ent than anyone else,” he said.

Kolb said he’s been talking to the de- THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY you build something, you don’t know who the Varvatos knows that by leaving signer about returning to New York for tenants will be, but you know they’re going to Europe, there are some global retailers many years. “We had numerous conversa- ticipate — although not all with runway like the neighborhood,” he said. who will miss the show, “but it’s the same shows — include Calvin Klein Collection, Varvatos said his decision to return to thing when we show in’’ Europe, so it’s a tions about men’s wear and its overall im- portance to the American fashion industry,” Michael Kors, Rag & Bone, Public School, New York is not designed to create buzz wash,” he said. he said. “When you look at the landscape of Billy Reid, Todd Snyder, Michael Bastian, or generate publicity. “I almost feel em- Ditto for editors. American men’s wear, there are not many Ovadia & Sons, Robert Geller, Duckie barrassed about making a big deal about CFDA has committed to sponsoring designers who are singular in their ap- Brown, Patrik Ervell, Timo Weiland and it,” he said. “It’s the right thing to do and the trips of around 20 key editors from proach and who are a global success. So Kent & Curwen. Tommy Hilfi ger, an early we’re only promoting it to get other strong Europe to attend the inaugural event, when the conversation started about creat- backer of the initiative, will take part in American designers on the train. When and it also hopes to attract key regional ing a stand-alone men’s week, there was in- some form, as will Thom Browne. Ralph London Fashion Week started, it attracted and national journalists who have not at- credible support from the beginning. John Lauren has remained mum on the issue. others and men’s fashion week can be a tended shows in Europe in the past. will be the tentpost of the week.” Calvin Klein and Thom Browne will showplace for American designers. There “Men’s wear is the hot ticket in retail Varvatos said he’s always been a continue to show in Milan and Paris, re- really hasn’t been the right venue before.” today,” Varvatos said. “There’s a lot of “champion” of the idea of a separate spectively, but Kolb stressed that their Men’s fashion week is hoping interest in the young designers and we men’s fashion week, but until recently, participation in New York “will not be to replicate the success of London now have the venue — the runway so to there wasn’t enough interest to “give it a phone-in. They’ll be doing something Collections: Men, which started in 2012. speak — for them to show what they do.” enough girth,” he said. Creating some- unique that will add to the week.” Asked if he would also move his fall show Although he expects the shows to attract thing this expansive is “not an easy task Kolb said the shows will begin with from Milan in January to New York in a lot of attention, he said: “It’s less about — you really need a core to make it work.” an event on July 13 and run through February, Varvatos said the decision the hoopla — in the end, the real success Designers who have committed to par- the 16th, with at least 25 shows at hasn’t been made. “More than likely yes, is what happens at retail.”

Calypso’s Mariee Calypso to Launch Boho Bridal Line offering targets tomers]. It could be for a prom or what a bohemian By SHARON EDELSON grandmother would wear to a wedding. brides. It doesn’t have to be the bride wearing NEW YORK — Calypso’s collection for the pieces.” boho brides, Mariee, bows Thursday Every item was designed to be com- with hints of Marrakech, Goa, Jaipur fortable, which is how Calypso’s cus- and St. Barths, the brand’s original tomer wants it. “She’s braless and bare- stamping ground. foot,” Miller said. “She’s comfortable in Calypso stores on Madison Avenue her skin.” in Manhattan, Los Angeles, Dallas, East The collection has an ethereal quality, Hampton, N.Y., and Bal Harbour, Fla., especially a tulle ballgown skirt embel- will carry the collection initially and it lished with fl oaty lace and an icy blue will be sold online. full-length caftan with open work and “Our girl is so carefree, and she’s such shot with silver embroidery. A long dress a free spirit that a structured bridal out- with a crochet bodice has a full, fl oaty fi t wouldn’t be appropriate,” said Elisa chiffon skirt while another short dress is Miller, the retailer’s creative director. hand-embellished with white pom-poms “It’s taking what we do and bringing the and a linen caftan is covered with re- artisan element and craftsmanship to the worked lace. “Some of these pieces are next level of beauty and enrichment.” more separates and can be mixed and Offerings include a strapless harem matched,” Miller said. jumper embroidered with gold thread, a In the stores selling Mariee, Calypso Battenburg lace-covered minidress and will offer one-of-a-kind vintage bustiers matching bell-bottom pants and a strap- that have been reworked. “We’ll also sell less long dress with hand-cut chiffon some strappy heels that we bought from dégradé dyed feathers. The collection is other vendors to complement this col- priced from $275 to $2,000. lection,” Miller said. “We tried to curate “Bridal is such a natural fi t for the some very unique jewelry so she can brand,” Miller said. “It’s a natural exten- come in and leave with an entire look. sion because we have a distinct point of We have hair jewelry, hand jewelry, an- view, being bohemian and artisanal.” She klets and crowns. That adds to the spir- said the collection “as far as the concept it.” Head pieces are $195. of it, has been in the works for a number A strappy white chiffon fl ower girl’s of years.” dress with an elasticized bodice and If it sounds like some of the items pom-pom hem comes in sizes 4 to 10. would lend themselves to destination “We have a collection of girls’ cloth- weddings, Miller said that’s the idea. ing seasonally and we’re continuing to While the collection conjures up “some grow that,” Miller said. “As the collection sort of vacation, they’re also occasion evolves, we’ll have more children’s.” And dresses,” she said. “It doesn’t have to be she plans to expand bridal. “It’s so im- so narrowly defi ned. We have this age- portant for our brand,” she said. “This is less factor to our brand [in terms of cus- the very beginning.”