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Home , Surimi, Worcestershire sauce

LINC Sea Crant ,A Nlarch, 1986 o(Hsr Iil 0H IlLustntion by l+larye Yictttr edd

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ReshCIping The Catch ryilro( rHrlrflo}{ S{raooD fly fancy )avir The label on the box says "imitation ." But In 1984, the japanese-based Kibun Co. Ltd., the inside, the product looks like , has the tex- world's largest processor of -based products, ture of crab meat, and it tastes, well, almost like crab opened a plant in Raleigh. The company markets its meat. products under the label "DelicaSeas." Instead, it's a pseudoshellfish made from surimi (sur Masayuki Fukuda, executive vice president of e' me), a minced fish product developed by the Japa- Kibun Corporation of North Carolina, doesn't de- nese. The fish is processed into a that serves as scribe his company's target market as a segment of the the base for restructured products, or analogs. population. Instead, Fukuda grins and says the com- ]ust add a little of the real thing for and, voila- pany wants its products to reach "every American." crab legs, and tails. Ambitious perhaps, but from all appearances, So far, it seems Americans don't mind a little Iapa- Fukuda may be on his way to achieving that goal. In nese ingenuity making it to the dinner table. In fact, the last four years, surimi-based products have been consumer taste buds are giving the products positive riding high on a wave of success. American sales for reviews, and folks are gobbling down the imitations surimi-based products have risen from 3.3 million like the real thing. pounds in 1980 to 70 million pounds in 1984. And, Admittedly, no substitute can entirely match the experts project an analysis of 1985 numbers will indi- flavor of fresh seafood. But, the real thing isn't always cate sales reached as high as 150 million pounds. available and, sometimes, the expense of Alaska king The process of making surimi began in lSth century crab, scallops and lobster can be prohibitive. ]apan. The fish are skinned, eviscerated, deboned and

(1e82) 16 million pounds

(re83) 33 million pounds

'4 "*r 4 '] ,',.8:- ___-."qL (1984) -;::aff - '.,f,,--b_* 70 million pounds

(1e85) . :1,:\\-'.,..1:)ifl.;.. ; _.-^ - 3 i.t ;.*.. 150 million pounds projected

American sales of surimi-based products increased almost ten-fold in four years Plnto bg Natcg Daxis washed, and and are added. The result- ing product is surimi, a protein concentrate that is white, odorless and flavorless. Finally, the surimi is frozen in blocks for storage. In this form, the surimi is without value. It's what happens next that transforms the commodity into something consumers will buy and eat. The surimi is chopped and natural flavor- ings are added. Then the mixture is extruded or molded into shapes, similar to the natural counter- parts, and cooked. Why are Americans so taken with an imitation pro- duct? It's possible that they see the same attributes that first captured food scientists'attention. The surimi is molded into products that are high in protein and low in , calories and cholesterol. And, the products offer I consumers a consistent, high quality product. Another big selling point is economics. Surimi- based products sell for a fraction of the cost of the real n thing. Alaska king crab legs, for example, were retail- ing in Raleigh supermarkets in ]anuary for about $10 per pound. But the simulated crab legs retail for about $4.50 per pound. Most surimi is made from , a lean, white-fleshed fish that is abundant and inexpensive. Each year an estimated 3.7 billion pounds are caught Masayuki Fukuda by japanese trawlers in Alaskan waters, shipped to ]apan to be made into surimi, and the surimi or surimi because such a venture was so new to this area, there products are shipped back to the United States. was concern over the quality of effluent from the Now, with the development of a surimi-based food proposed plant. But Thomas supplied technical exper- product industry on the East Coast, researchers are tise about surimi plants, and city officials approved investigating the possibility of using an Atlantic fish the facility. species as a resource for surimi production to lessen Thomas estimates Kibun's initial investment was the costs of shipping surimi from or Alaska. about $4 million. Kibun began its Raleigh operations Already, Sea Grant researchers at N.C. State Univer- with one processing line. Now, three lines are in opera- sity have developed a surimi from menhaden, an tion, and the company produces 7,000 pounds of its abundant fish found off the North Carolina coast. product each day. The company employs 52 workers Menhaden processing companies along the mid- at its Raleigh site. Atlantic are following the new technology as a possi Thomas says the Kibun plant operates with state of ble alternate outlet for their catches. It may be possi- the art technology. Product quality is closely moni- ble to elevate the lowly menhaden from a source for tored. Each day, employees take samples, run bacte- livestock and chicken feed to a quality product for rial analyses, and test the product for its appearance, human consumption. texture, water content and flavor. At Kibun, Fukuda says his company would consider If surimi-based analogs are so popular, will they buying American-produced surimi, providing there is begin to cut into conventional shellfish markets? an adequate supply and a consistent high quality. Fukuda doesn't think so. "Fresh seafood and blended If there is no surimi production here, why did Kibun seafood are completely separate categories. Fresh locate in Raleigh? Speaking through an interpreter, seafood is wonderful as it is. We have a completely Fukuda said the area was chosen because of its prox- different product to offer," he says. Fukuda adds that imity to Sea Grant researchers at NCSU and its attrac- he thinks it's important for supermarkets to offer the tiveness as an East Coast distribution point. (Kibun's product as a frozen seafood product rather than West Coast plant is in Seattle, Wash.) alongside fresh seafood. The availability of labor and the attractiveness of Thomas agrees. "You can't equate one with the the area as an industrial site were also drawing cards, other. These seafood products are analogs of shellfish. says Frank Thomas, a Sea Grant seafood extension They're a fully prepared item, a convenience item. specialist with NCSU's Food Science Department. We're essentially opening up a new market that prob- Thomas worked with Kibun and city and state offi- ably won't compete with , and other cials to help the company locate in Raleigh. Initially, fresh ." SELLINC SCIENCE and MENHADEN

Sea Crant researcher Tyre Lanier is selling the seafood industry on menhaden surid

By Kathy Hart

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%::,.,, yre Lanier is a scientist by menhaden's value (5 cents per pound) blocks f or manuf acturing pseudoshell- trade, but a salesman at as compared to other fish, although the -menhaden surimi's heart. He delivers a spiel remains the nation's largest in most likely avenue of entrance into that is fast, slick and con- terms of volume. In Lanier's eyes, it's . vincing. He glibly describes how the the menhaden's low price and high Back to his peddling, Lanier lowly menhaden, a fish once used for volume that make it a likely candidate smoothly counters each problem with fertilizer and animal feed, can be trans- for the "soybean of the sea." scientific research. IIe reports that the formed into nutritious food additives. Now that Lanier has you convinced light and dark muscle tissues have When he's finished, you're as sure as he of the menhaden's potential, he's ready been successfully separated under is the menhaden is destined for the din- for the hard sell-menhaden surimi. laboratory conditions. If very fresh ing room. He begins surprisingly by saying that fish is used, the two can be But Lanier is not a double-talking today all surimi is made from the separated in the straining step of the huckster. His "soft sell" of menhaden is Alaska pollock, a white-fleshed fish surimi process. And more rigorous straightforrvard and honest. It's based that is low priced and abundant. washing has reduced the fat content to on hard facts, good science and an BUT, he emphasizes, rumblings less than I percent in surimi made from earnest belief that menhaden deriva- from Alaskan fishery managers indi- Atlantic menhaden and less than 3 tives can mean as much to the food cate that pollock stocks may not be as percent from Gulf menhaden. industry as the soybean. limitless as once believed. With a Next, Lanier called in another Sea In fact, Lanier, a Sea Grant re- second punch, he raises the doubt that Grant researcher, NCSU civil engineer searcher and food scientist, introduces any one fishery can meet the growing Allen Chao. Chao developed a method the menhaden as "the soybean of the demand for surimi. "If surimi ex- to reduce water needs and concentrate sea"-a Madison Avenue marketing panded to food chains such as Mc- the effluent. The concentrated efflu- phrase he coined to sell menhaden Donald's or Hardee's," Lanier says, ent can be funneled into existing men- companies and seafood processors on "the pollock fishery could not meet the haden reduction plants and recovered the fish's versatility and potential. demand for such large volumes." for feed or fertilizer. Food processors know the story of Finally, he adds that food processors The scientists are currently tackling the soybean. But for those who don't, have perfected a method for filleting the enzyme problem, Lanier says. Lanier describes how years ago Henry the pollock, making it a potential pro- They are looking for an additive that Ford (of automobile fame) saw the duct for higher priced traditional sea- might inhibit the enzyme or a process contribution the soybean was making food markets. that would remove it altogether. Even to nutrition in the Far East. Ford After casting a shadow on the pol- without a solution athand, Lanier con- initiated research that resulted in edi- lock, Lanier opens the door for an fidently says menhaden can be refined ble oils and protein concentrates alternative-the menhaden. For four into "a surimi of a quality comparable rvhich today can be found in almost years, Lanier and food scientist Frank in many ways to that prepared from every manufactured food product in Thomas have been working on various Alaska pollock." America. Lanier envisions a similar Sea Grant projects at NCSU to perfect With many research results in hand fate for the menhaden. the making of surimi from menhaden. and more on the way, Lanier is ready "The way the soybean evolved into They know that only science can trans- to accept his commission-application the food industry is almost identical to form the menhaden from a possibility of the research on a commercial scale. the way we think the menhaden will into a reality. And rest assured, Lanier In fact, Lanier probably developed his evolve," Lanier says. "We want the knows his science as well as his sales- peddling pitch because of efforts to food industry to see that analogy. We manship. interest a menhaden industry bent on want them to see that something they Pausing from his sales pitch, Lanier animal feed in food products. now perceive as (animal) feed or admits that menhaden presented some But interest he did. To get started in worse can easily become a food ingre- unique problems. It contains a signifi- this new line of production, the men- dient. Soybeans permeate so many cant amount of dark muscle that could haden industry asked the federal gov- food products beyond where you discolor the surimi product. The fish, ernment for some assistance. This would normally expect them to be. In especially the Gulf species, had a high year, the National Marine other words, the first person to per- fat content that could adversely affect Service awarded Zapala Haynie Cor- ceive putting soybeans in food would the gelling quality, flavor, storage sta- poration a fisheries development grant have probably said,'Let's put it where bility and fat content of the surimi. to build a pilot menhaden surimi plant the seed grains go or the legumes go.' And the processing procedure re- in Reidsville, Va. They wouldn't have thought about quired large volumes of water and When the plant becomes opera- putting them in bacon bits or milk- produced large amounts of effluent. tional this summer, a university advi- shakes, strange places like that." Later the research team identified sory panel, including Lanier, will exam- To follow the path of the soybean another problem: an enzyme present ine the quality of the plant's surimi would elevate the menhaden from its in the meat that could cause textural production-the surimi's fat content, present status as an industrial fish. Like problems if heated to certain tempera- protein content and gelling ability. the soybean at the turn of the century, tures. But, Lanier stresses that this only What becomes of Sea Grant's top menhaden oil is not approved for poses a problem if the surimi is pro- salesman after he collects his commis- domcstic food use, and the protein is cessed into traditional meat "" sion? He continues to upgrade his pro- used almost entirely for animal feed. products such as hot dogs, bologna or duct and look for other ways to refine Such a lowly fate has lowered the luncheon meats. It presents no road- the menhaden into edible products. Serving Ilp Seafood Substitutes

Face it. When it comes to flavor, it's CASSEROLE , hard to beat the taste of fresh 2 tablespoons butter or margarine those scallops, shrimp and lobster. But r/z cup sliced fresh mushrooms And, catches aren't always available. 1 tablespoon chopped green peppers even when they are, the price may turn 2 tablespoons chopped more than one cook's head toward a I can cream of mushroom soup surimi-based substitute. Yz cup grated mild cheddar give We're not advocating you uP on Yr teaspoon freshly ground black the real thing, because nothing could pepper take its place. But the surimibased I pound shrimp analog positive points substitutes have some Yr cup dry mixed with you should consider. For example, I tablespoon melted butter or food scientists say the imitations often margarine are more nutritious, containing higher protein and lower fat, calories and cho- Melt 2 tablespoons butter or marga- lesterol than the natural counterparts. rine. Cook mushrooms, green pepper Some food scientists say surimi-based onion until tender. Stir in soup, products will revolutionize the food and cheese and pepper. Heat, stirring con- industry, predicting such edibles as stantly until cheese melts. Stir in lunch meats, , snack chips and shrimp. Pour into greased casserole. even a surimi milkshake. But for the Melt butter in double boiler. Stir in Spread bread crumb mixture over top. moment, surimi's proven worth is in onion and celery and cook until tender, Bake in a 40O-degree oven for l0 min- the shellfish analog business. about 5 minutes. Blend in flour, , utes or until heated and crumbs are Taylor, Sea Grant's seafood paprika, pepper and Worcestershire. Joyce brown. Serves 6. education specialist, says the analogs Add crab or shrimp, milk and cream. can be substituted in most recipes call- Cook over boiling water, stirring con- ing for the real thing. The analogs are stantly until slightly thickened. Stir in SEA ENTREE SWISS-STYLE best, she says, when used with sherry just before serving and garnish or in recipes for dishes such as seafood with parsley. Serves 6 to 8. tA cup (4tablespoons) butter, melted salads, soups, casseroles or Newburgs. I tablespoon lemon iuice Below are some suggestions for 2 cloves , pressed making the imitations taste less like CRAB IMPERIAL Ye teaspoon tarragon, crushed imitations. 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese, grated I package (8 ounces) lobster tail SHRIMP SOUP Ye cup low calorie CREAM OF CRAB OR I analog, thawed "gg salt Yr teaspoon 2 tablespoons butter or margarine dry pepper 7a teaspoon salt I small onion, minced Vz cup Swiss cheese, grated dash freshly ground black pepper Yz cup minced celery I tablespoon plain flour hot pepper to taste Blend together butter, lemon juice, Yz tablespoon minced green pepper Yz teaspoon salt garlic, tarragon and Parmesan cheese. Ye tablespoon minced red onion 7z teaspoon paprika Place analogs face down on foillined meat analog, flaked dash white pepper I pound crab cookie sheet or broiler pan. Season I teaspoon with . Brush with half 3/ pound crab or shrimp analog, Combine mayonnaise, egg, mustard, the butter mixture. Broil 5 minutes. finely chopped salt, pepper and pepper sauce. Add Turn analogs over. Brush with remain- 2 cups milk green pepper and onion. Gently stir in ing butter mixture and sprinkle with 2 cups light cream crab meat. Place in individual baking Swiss cheese. Broil 1 to 2 minutes. 2 tablespoons sherry shells and bake at 350 degrees for 15 Serve with wild rice. Makes 4lobster I tablespoon minced parsley minutes. Serves 4 to 6. tails. TIID I}l()KI?I(ilI

"The Bock Page" is an uptlate on Sea Cost for the rvorkshop is $175. This ious market forms of fish, and she Crant actiuities - on re,search, nrurine includes housing, some meals and tnkcs the guessing out of deciding ho,,,,, educcttiort and aduisorg seruices. lt's transportation costs. Dcadline for reg- much to buy. A chart provides consunt- also a good place to find out about istration is April 1. For more informa- ers u,ith serving suggestions. meetings, uorkshops ancl neu publi- tion. u-rite Spence at LINC Sea Crant, For a copy of the free brochure, cations. For nrore inf orrnation on anu Box 8605, \.C. State University, u'rite Sca Crant. Ask for tiNC-SG- of the proiects described, contact the Raleigh. N.C. 27695-8605. Or call, 85-08. Sea Gront off ices in Raleigh (919/737- 9r9/i37-2451. 2454). publications, For copies of Both fishermen and Sea Sea Grant has a ncrv seafood exten- u;rite L|NC Crant, NCSL/, Bor fishery managers rvould 8605, Raleigh, N .C. 27695-8605, sion specialist at the NCSLI Seafood Laboratory in Morehead City. David like to knorv the secret Cree'n. a Ph.D. candidate in food for the biggest catches Thir r,,rr-"r. l5 science at NCSLI, r,',i11 rvork rvith and the most profits. science teachers frorn North Carolina seafood handlers and \Vith the help of threc North Carolina rvill see processors. N.C. State Liniversity the state frorn a new per- \Vhile at NCSU, Green rvorked u,ith economists. the ansrver can be re- spective. August 10 to Sea Crant rescarchers Tyre Lanier and vealed. 17, they'll foin 15 Puerto Allern Chao on menhaden surimi pro- Robert Kellogg, J.E. Easlcy Jr. and Rican teachers for the cessing and on r,vasteu'ater reduction Thomas Johnson rc.cer.rtly developed a "Sea to the \lcluntains Environmental in surimi opcrations. bioeconomic rnodel and optinial con- Education \\'orkshop," organized b1. At the seafood lab. Creen rvill intro- trol theorl,and applied it to the North Lundie Spence and Juan Gonzalez, cluce clients to neu'technolog.v, emphtr- Carolina bal. fishcr1,. For their marine education specialists fronr the size fundanrental seafood handling studl'. biologic and economic data North Carolina and Puerto Rico Sea ancl processing sanitation praciices. u'ere fed into a computer niodcl. By Crant progranls respectilclr'. An). and recornnrend measures to reduce altering these economic and biologic North Carolina science teacher u'ith a u'ater consunrption and u'aste genera- variables, thc effects of management pair of tennis shoes, decisions on the economic returns a sense of adr.en- tion during ltrocessing. Green r.vill con- of turc and a love of nature is eligible. tinue the lab's rvork on the smoking of the statc's bay scallop fishery wcre In one rveek, the teachers rvill travel niid-Atlantic seafoods. examined. Their results are published from the coast to the mountains, explor- If you have questions about seafood in A Bioeconomic Nlodel f or Deter- ing the temperate ecosystems of processing, contact Creen at the lab at minin g th e O ptimal T imin g of H a n; e st North Carolina and learning teaching 9r9/726-7341. for the I'lorth Carolina Bag Scallop tec'hniqrrt's for marine sc.ience c,lasses. Fisherg, rvhich is available frorn UNC They'll trek do'ul.n a nature trail at If yorr'r" hooked on Sea Crant. The inforrnation included Greenfield Lake, exarnine salt nrarshes fresh North Carolina sea- in this publication should be a useful ancl ocean e.cology, relive history rvith food, you'll want a copy guide for development of manage- the Cherokees and raft dolvn the Nan- of a brochure compiled ment rnodels for other fisheries. tahala River. In addition, education by Joyce Taylor, Sea If you rvould like'a copy, send $2.75 materials and field guides rvill be iden- Grant's seafood educa- to UNC Sea Crant. Box 8605. N.C. tified and activities from national tion specialist. Hooked State University, Raleigh, N.C. 27695- science curricula rvill be used. on Fresh Fish and Shellfish gives con- 8605. Ask for publication number The rveek rvill also givc the North sumers tips for choosing seafood at the LINC-SG-85-25. Carolina teachers the opportunity to market. comparc' thc state's ecosystems u,ith You should know, for example, that Seafood is the nerv kid on ther block the tropical ones of Pucrto Rico and to a fresh fish will have bright, clear and when it comes to restaurants and groc- share ideas frorn different cultures. protruding eyes. If its eyes are cloudy, ery stores. Consequently many sea- The r,r,orkshop is sponsored by UNC pink and sunken, there's a good chance food buyers don't knou,as much about Sea Crant, Puerto Rico Sea Grant. the that fish has been out of the water too fish and shellfish as they do about N.C. NIath/Science centers at the Lini- long. If a fish doesn't look fresh, it , and chicken. versity of North Carolina at \\iilming- won't taste fresh either, says Taylor. To help those nc'uv to purchasing ton and Western Carolina Ll'niversity, Hooked on Fresh Fish and Shellfish seafood, Sea Grant's seafood market- the N.C. Marine Resources Cente:r at will provide you with tips for buying ing specialist Gary Van Housen has Fort Fisher, Discovery Place, the IIigh- fresh fish, shrimp, clams, scallops, oys- rvritten a booklet, A Guide to Purchas- lands Biokrgical Station and the N.C. ters, crabs and . Taylor ex- ing and HandlingN orth Carolina Sea- Wildlifc Resources Cornmission. plains the difference between the var- Continued on ncxt page food for Restaurant Operators und Retailers. Coastwatch is a free newsletter. If you'd like to be added to the mailing list, fill out Thc booklet will help those rvho buy this form and send it to Sea Grant, Box 8605, NCSU, Raleigh, N.C. 27695-8605. bulk quantities of seafood determine freshness, check net weights and han- dle their purchases more carefully. Name Van Ilousen also provides descriptions Address of some of North Carolina's best sea- food selections: bluefish, king mack- Code erel, mulle.t, red snapper, shrimp, blue CityoStateoZip crabs and more. For a copy of this publication, write help us specialize our services, please answer these questions. Sea Crant. Ask for publication UNC- To SG-86-0I. The cost is $1. I am in thc following line of work:

oatbuilding,/Repair operator -B ---\,Iarina government --lVIarine recreation Coastu;atch is published monthly -City/County except July and December by the fishing media Univcrsity of North Carolina Sea -Commercial -Mass Educator processing/marketing Crant Collcge Program, 105 I9II Build- --Seafood ing, Box 8605, North Carolina State --State government lJniversity, Raleigh. NC 27695-8605. -Jarming Vol. 13, No. 3, March, 1986. Dr. B.J. prof essor/researcher Copeland, director. Kathy llart. edi- -Homemaker -University I.awyer tor. Nancy Davis and Sarah Friday, -Other staff rvriters. Coastal property owner ----no Boat owner ----no -yes -yes

OOAS]WATOTI Nonprofit Organization U. S. Postage 105 1911 Building PAID Raleigh, N.C. Box 8605 P€rmit No. 896 North Carolina State University Raleigh, NC 27695-8605 /\ Address correction requested