Designing out Waste: Innovation Opportunities for Performance Sportswear

Designing with/ designing out waste:

Innovation opportunities for Performance Sportswear

PERFORMANCE DAYS MUNICH, APRIL 2016 Anne Prahl concept+design Designing with/ designing out waste: Innovation opportunities for Performance Sportswear

• Designing with waste

• Designing out waste

• Challenges & opportunities for textile-based wearable technology

• Summary and Q&A Designing with waste Designing with waste

01 02 02

One industry’s waste is another industry’s treasure.

01 plastic bottle waste 02 Nike sportswear made from recycled plastic bottles Designing with waste: Post consumer (non-textile) waste

03 recycled nylon fishing nets provide raw material for ECO PANDA swimwear 04 recycled tyres provide raw material for ECOALF flip-flops Designing with waste: Post-consumer textile waste

05 TEKO REDESIGN project 06 OWL OUTDOOR WASTE LAB creative recycling Designing with waste: Post-consumer textile waste

07 ‘Gathering pattern’ recycled swimwear print, Anne Prahl MA project Designing with waste: Pre-consumer textile waste

08 09

08 Speedo LZR Racer project with students from London College of Fashion 09 Speedo LZR Racer collaboration with Orsola de Castro/ From Somewhere 10 Speedo LZR Pavilion Chelsea College of Art & Design Designing out waste Designing out waste

“Waste is the result of bad design. Waste needs to be designed out at the designer’s desk!”

Eric Lombardi, EcoCycle

11 Timo Rissanen ‘Fashion creation without waste creation’ Designing out waste: REDUCE PRE-CONSUMER TEXTILE WASTE

12 13 ZERO WASTE PATTERNS & CONSTRUCTION

3-D PRINTING 14

12 Zero Waste Menswear by Joe O’Neill 13 Nike Flyknit upper construction 14 flexible 3-D printing Manchester School of Art Designing out waste: REPAIR+REUSE

15 16

15 Patagonia and IFIXIT care & repair 16 Patagonia Worn Wear 17 Houdini RENTAL & REUSE Designing out waste: CLOSED-LOOP RECYCLING

18 19

20 21 22

18 Teijin ECO-CIRCLE closed-loop system for polyester products 19 RIZ recycled & recyclable boardshorts 20 PUMA InCycle collection 21 ECONYL Regeneration System for the production of nylon from waste materials 22 adidas Sport infinity-cycling Challenges & opportunities for textile-based wearable technology Wearable Technology: Sensor-enabled performance sportswear

23 24 25

26 27 28

23 NuMetrex heart sensing sports bra 24 Under Armour biometric compression shirt 25 NuMetrex adidas heart rate monitor shirt 26 Ralph Lauren/ OMsignal biometric t-shirt 27 Athos clothing tracks muscle activity, heart rate & balance 28 Myontec EMG compression shorts Challenges: End-of-life issues for electronic textiles

29 30 31

“Embedding electronic devices into textiles results in a novel category of products…the findings suggest that widespread application of e-textiles could result in the emergence of a new waste stream.” Andreas Köhler (2008)

29 child sitting amongst cables and e-waste 30 textile waste in a landfill in Syria 31 data logging compression shirt utilising sensors and conductive threads Challenges: End-of-life issues for textile-based wearable technology

32 33 34 PERMANENT & SEAMLESS INTEGRATION: KNITTED, WOVEN, PRINTED, EMBROIDERED, LAMINATED & ULTRA-SONIC WELDED

35 36 37

32 knitted textile-based electrode, Textronics Inc. 33 stitched-in pressure sensors, alphafit 34 printed chemical sensors 35 woven electronic textile, Jacquard project 36 laminated/ ultra-sonic welded electronics, Adidas MiCoach 37 laminated/ ultra-sonic welded electronics, Lululemon Opportunities: Designing out e-o-l issues as part of the innovation process

THINKING BEYOND TRADITIONAL KNITTED & WOVEN TEXTILES

39 41

BIODEGRADABLE? RECYCLABLE? 40

38 electronic ‘skin’, University of Illinois 39 wax-printed paper sensor, University of Texas & University of Illinois 40 sensing shirt sketch, A. Prahl 41 electronic fingertip, University of Illinois Opportunities: Closed-loop design for textile-based wearable technology - biodegradable

42 43 44 TRANSIENT ELECTRONICS & BIODEGRADABLE BATTERIES

42 ‘transient electronics’, University of Illinois/ Beckman Institute 43 biodegradable integrated circuit, Beckman Institute/ University of Illinois and Tufts University 44 biodegradable wood-pulp-based battery, KTH Royal Institute of Technology and Stanford University Opportunities: Closed-loop design for textile-based wearable technology - recyclable

45 46 DISASSEMBLY TECHNOLOGIES TO FACILITATE RECYCLING

45 ‘Active disassembly’ for mobile phones, NOKIA/ University of Technology 46 wear2 microwave textile disassembly technology Opportunities: Closed-loop wearable materials concepts for wearable technology

47 48

BIODEGRADABLE 3-D PRINTING

49 50

47 Nike bag with 3-D printed panel 48 biodegradable 3-D printed insect habitat 49 Shapeways 3-D printed bikini 50 3-D printed scaffolding for bones Opportunities: Closed-loop wearable materials concepts for wearable technology

51 52 RECYCLABLE 3-D KNITTING & PRINTING

53 54

51 recyclable bio-knit trainers 52 flexible 3D printing 53 adidas 3-D printed midsole made from recycled fishing nets 54 ‘The Cruncher’ plastic and 3-D waste recycling Opportunities: Closed-loop wearable materials concepts for wearable technology

55 56

BIODEGRADABLE AND/ OR RECYCLABLE 3-D ‘ON-FORM’ SPRAYING

57 58

55 Fabrican sprayable textiles 56 spray-printed Cosyflex 57 Electroloom 3-D fabric printer 58 Electroloom fabric sample Summary and Q & A: Innovation opportunities for Performance Sportswear

• Material innovators and designers need to think beyond recycling in order to reduce and eliminate waste during the manufacturing, in-use and end-of-life stages of a product

• Challenges: When developing future performance sportswear fabrics and products, we need to address the end-of-life implications for specialist technologies, such as electronic and smart textiles

• Opportunities: In order to truly innovate new performance fabrics, we need to move away from the restrictions of traditional knitted and woven textiles to explore what a ‘wearable material’ could constitute in the future

Anne Prahl concept+design [email protected] Image references and further reading

01 Plastic bottle waste: http://www.gizmag.com/levi-waste-less-jeans-incorporate-waste-from-plastic-bottles/24808/

02 Nike sportswear made from recycled plastic bottles: http://ecoboutiqueshop.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/nike-recycle-plastic-bottles-for.html

03 Recycled nylon fishing nets provide raw material for ECO PANDA swimwear: http://www.worldfishing.net/news101/industry-news/carpet-tiles-out-of-abandoned-fishing-nets http://www.treehugger.com/style/eco-panda-launches-first-recycled-nylon-swimwear-line.html

04 recycled tyres provide raw material for ECOALF flip-flops: http://ecoalf.com/uk_en/about/processes

05 TEKO REDESIGN project: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjdoAJ0J99Y&feature=em-upload_owner-smbtn

06 OUTDOOR WASTE LAB creative recycling: Photo taken at ISPO 2016 (left), right image: http://www.picture-organic-clothing.com/family/artists/woodstock-creation-outdoor-waste-lab/

07 ‘Gathering pattern’ recycled swimwear print, A. Prahl MA project

08 Speedo LZR Racer project with students from London College of Fashion: http://www.arts.ac.uk/fashion/business-and-innovation/industry-projects/speedo-reinventing-the-lzr-racer-suit/ http://blogs.arts.ac.uk/fashion/2011/01/18/speedo-project-product-images-and-student-case-studies/

09 Speedo LZR Racer collaboration with Orsola de Castro/ From Somewhere: http://www.ecouterre.com/speedo-from-somewhere-turn-banned-lzr-swimsuits-into-fabulous-frock/from-somewhere-speedo-dress-1/?extend=1

10 Speedo LZR Pavilion Chelsea College of Art & Design: http://www.designboom.com/architecture/speedo-swim-suit-pavilion/

11 Timo Rissanen ‘Fashion creation without waste creation’: http://zerofabricwastefashion.blogspot.co.uk/2009/09/hoodie-attempt-to-explain.html

12 Zero Waste Menswear by Joe O’Neill: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/130463720431825898/ 13 Nike Flyknit upper http://www.nikeblog.com/2012/02/21/nike-flyknit-racer-new-technology-model/

14 flexible 3D printing Manchester School of Art http://www.3ders.org/articles/20141109-english-researchers-use-3d-printing-to-produce-flexible-and-fine-textile-like-structures.html

15 Patagonia and IFIXIT care & repair: https://www.ifixit.com/Patagonia

16 Patagonia Worn Wear: http://wornwear.patagonia.com/image/118740984540

17 Houdini RENTAL & REUSE: http://www.houdinisportswear.com/en/sustainability

18 Teijin ECO-CIRCLE closed-loop system for polyester products: http://www.teijin.com/products/advanced_fibers/poly/specifics/eco-circle.html

19 RIZ recycled & recyclable boardshorts: http://www.driftsurfing.eu/worlds-first-100-recycled-recyclable-boardshort/

20 PUMA InCycle collection: http://www.sustainablebrands.com/news_and_views/waste_not/puma-introduces-c2c-certified-recyclable-track-jacket-backpack-part-incycle

21 ECONYL Regeneration System for the production of nylon from waste materials: http://www.aquafil.com/sustainability/the-econyl-project/

22 Adidas Sport ‘infinity-cycling’: http://www.adidas-group.com/en/magazine/stories/specialty/farewell-recycling-infinity-cycling/

23 NuMetrex heart sensing sports bra: http://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20060912006114/en/Textronics-TM-Expands-UK-NuMetrex-TM-Clothes

24 Under Armour biometric compression shirt: http://www.ecouterre.com/under-armours-biometric-compression-shirt-tracks-broadcasts-athletic-performance-video/zephyr-under-armour-e39- shirt-2/

25 NuMetrex heart rate monitor shirt: http://www.numetrex.com/our-pulse/2013/12/5-great-reasons-to-monitor-heart-rate-exercise-safely.html

26 Ralph Lauren/ OMsignal biometric t-shirt: http://abcnews.go.com/Lifestyle/us-open-shirt-measure-heart-rate/story?id=25116837

27 Athos clothing tracks muscle activity, heart rate & balance: http://www.cnet.com/news/athos-computers-should-be-in-your-workout-wear-not-just-your-pockets/

28 Myontec EMG compression shorts: http://www.wired.com/2014/10/myontecs-smart-shorts/

29 Child sitting amongst cables and e-waste: http://www.greenpeace.org/international/en/campaigns/detox/electronics/

30 Textile waste in a landfill in Syria: http://wastebiorefining.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/collecting-system-for-textile-wastes.html

31 Data logging compression shirt utilising sensors and conductive threads: http://www.ecouterre.com/smart-textile-shirt-protects-baseball-pitchers-from-elbow-injuries/

32 Knitted textile-based electrode, Textronics Inc.: http://www.talk2myshirt.com/blog/archives/423

33 Stitched-in pressure sensors, alphafit: http://www.alpha-fit.de/en/products/smartsock.html

34 Printed chemical sensors: http://jacobsschool.ucsd.edu/pulse/fall2010/research7.shtml

35 Woven electronic textile, Jacquard project http://www.themanufacturer.com/articles/google-debuts-new-electronic-smart-fabrics

36 Laminated/ ultra-sonic welded electronics, Adidas MiCoach: http://fashioningtech.com/profiles/blogs/interview-with-akseli-reho-from-clothing-plus

37 Laminated/ ultra-sonic welded electronics, Lululemon: http://fashioningtech.com/profiles/blogs/interview-with-akseli-reho-from-clothing-plus

38 Electronic ‘skin’, University of Illinois: http://www.abc.net.au/science/articles/2011/08/12/3292202.htm

39 Wax-printed paper sensor: http://www.laboratory-journal.com/news/scientific-news/origami-styled-sensor-technology-rapid-diagnostics

40 Sensing shirt sketch, A. Prahl 41 Electronic fingertip, University of Illinois: https://www.newscientist.com/article/dn22162-fingertip-tingle-enhances-a-surgeons-sense-of-touch/

42 Transient electronics, University of Illinois/ Beckman Institute: http://discovermagazine.com/2013/september/12-stretchy-flexy-future

43 Biodegradable integrated circuit, Beckman Institute/ University of Illinois and Tufts University http://www.futuretimeline.net/blog/2012/09/28-2.htm#.VxINcUT8dLo

44 Biodegradable wood-pulp-based battery KTH Royal Institute of Technology and Stanford University: http://www.triplepundit.com/2015/08/biodegradable-batteries-real/

45 Active disassembly for mobile phones, Nokia/ University of Technology: http://www.treehugger.com/gadgets/gadgets-that-self-destruct-active-disassembly.html

46 wear2 microwave textile disassembly technology: https://bridgebrighton.wordpress.com/2013/03/25/new-garment-dismantling-technology/ Further info at: http://www.wear-2.com/

47 Nike bag with 3-D printed panel: http://www.wired.com/2014/06/heres-the-3-d-printed-duffel-bag-that-ronaldo-will-be-toting-to-world-cup/

48 Biodegradable 3-D printed insect habitat: http://thecreatorsproject.vice.com/en_uk/blog/biodegradable-3d-printed-architectural-installation-will-become-a-micro-habitat-for-plants-and-insects

49 Shapeways 3-D printed bikini: http://www.gizmag.com/n12-3d-printed-bikini/18869/

50 3-D printed biodegradable scaffolding for replacement bones, QUT Institute of Health and Biomedical Innovation: http://www.brisbanetimes.com.au/queensland/3d-printing-pushes-medical-boundaries-20140508-zr6x9.html

51 Recyclable bio-knit trainers by Ammo Liao: http://maker3dprinting.com/ammo-liaos-recyclable-bio-knit-trainers-have-uppers-knitted-from-a-single-material/

52 Flexible 3-D printing Manchester School of Art: http://www.3ders.org/articles/20141109-english-researchers-use-3d-printing-to-produce-flexible-and-fine-textile-like-structures.html

53 adidas 3D printed midsole made with recycled fishing nets: http://sneakernews.com/2015/12/08/adidas-aims-to-clean-up-oceans-with-futurecraft-recycled-plastic-shoe/

54 ‘The Cruncher’ recycling plastic and 3-D printed waste: http://cleantechnica.com/2015/02/12/recycling-plastic-waste-3d-print-fails-filament-cruncher/

55 Fabrican sprayable textiles: http://www.wired.co.uk/news/archive/2010-09/17/spray-on-fabri

56 Spray-printed Cosyflex material: http://www.israel21c.org/3d-printed-cosyflex-panties-to-debut-in-israel/

57 Electroloom 3-D fabric printer: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/electroloom/electroloom-the-worlds-first-3d-fabric-printer

58 Electroloom fabric sample: http://bkaccelerator.com/electroloom-builds-a-3d-printer-for-clothes/

Quotes

Köhler, A. R. (2008) End-of-life implications of electronic textiles. Assessment of a converging technology. Master of Science thesis. Lund University, Sweden [Online]. Available at: http://lup.lub.lu.se/student-papers/record/1480555/file/1480556.pdf (Accessed: 10/10/11)

Lombardi, E. (2006) quoted by West L. in: ‘Zero Waste Starts With Responsible Design’ [Online]. Available at: http://environment.about.com/od/greenlivingdesign/a/zero_waste.htm (Accessed: 14/1/12)

For any queries or discussions regarding this presentation please contact Anne Prahl at: [email protected] or connect via LinkedIn at: https://www.linkedin.com/in/anne-prahl-2983627