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INSIDE VENDORS’ VALUE- WWDMAGIC ADDED STRATEGIES A SUPPLEMENT TO WWD PREMIUM DOUBLES SIZE ECOLLECTION’S GREEN GROWTH

azure thing Kick off the spring season with a pop of color and plenty of embellishment, giving a fresh take to classic shapes.

wMAGa001a;6.indd 1 8/7/09 5:57:19 PM “CHIC SENSUALITY” TRAVEL & LEISURE

2 LEXINGTON AVENUE, NEW YORK NY 10010 PHONE 212 920 3300 FOR RESERVATIONS CALL 866 784 1300 / 212 475 4320 OR VISIT WWW.GRAMERCYPARKHOTEL.COM Managing Editor, /Special Reports Dianne M. Pogoda

Special Sections Editor Michael Agosta

Senior Fashion Editor, Kim Friday

West Coast Market Editor Leila Baboi

Fashion Assistants: Tanya Brown, Leah Buchsbaum, Michael Flores, Kim Kajohn, Laugharn Pierose and Mark Weyland

Group Art Director Andrew Flynn

on the cover Associate Art Directors Amy LoMacchio Sharon Ber

Designer Courtney Mitchell

Junior Designer Eric Perry

Elan’s rayon and Lycra spandex Art Assistant . Dorfman Pacifi c ; Zoe and Tyler Resty Sage ; Charles David . Mac & Jac’s cotton . Copy Chief Peter Sadera

Deputy Copy Chief Maureen Morrison NARS COSMETICS AT CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; STYLED BY LEILA BABOI STYLED BY CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; NARS COSMETICS AT NARS COSMETICS AT CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; STYLED BY LEILA BABOI; STYLED BY CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; NARS COSMETICS AT inside Senior Copy Editor Lisa Kelly 4 SHOW BUSINESS: Value-added services attract attendees. Copy Editors 6 SWIMWEAR: Adam Perkowsky Kim Romagnuolo Vendors offer standout looks at affordable prices. Sarah Protzman 8 CONTEMPORARY/YOUNG CONTEMPORARY: trends include bold colors and novelty styles. • • •

10 JUNIORS: Publisher Embellishment headlines spring . Christine Guilfoyle 12 PREMIUM: The section doubles its exhibitor count this market. Executive Director/Innerwear/Legwear/Textile Joel Fertel 13 ECOLLECTION: Green vendors look for increased business. Account Director Janine Marks 14 WOMEN’S SPORTSWEAR/: Unique takes on classic looks draw interest. Plus, White features better and bridge resources. Account Director 15 ACCESSORIES: Tracy Hadel Multitasking merch provides lots of flexibility. Executive Director of International Fashion 16 : Brett Mitchell Spring goes heavy on the details. 17 MAGIC KIDS: West Coast Director Children’s wear vendors offer parents more for their money. Ron Troxell 18 CALENDAR: Associate Production Manager The order of events at the MAGIC Marketplace. Jill Breiner COVER PHOTO BY HELLIN KAY; MODEL: NIKI CLOYD/INDUSTRY; HAIR BY JOHNNY STUNTZ AT PHOTOGENICSMEDIA.COM; AMY CHANCE FOR MAKEUP BY JOHNNY STUNTZ AT HAIR BY MODEL: NIKI CLOYD/INDUSTRY; HELLIN KAY; COVER PHOTO BY PHOTOGENICSMEDIA.COM; AMY CHANCE FOR MAKEUP BY MODEL: ALLA/WILHELMINA; JOHNNY STUNTZ AT HAIR BY HELLIN KAY; PHOTO BY THIS PAGE:

WWDMAGIC 3

wMAGa003a;12.indd 1 8/7/09 5:22:50 PM a full slate MAGIC offers value-added services to attract buyers and vendors in a tough market. By Marcy Medina

THE MAGIC MARKETPLACE IS GEARED TO ENHANCE its women’s offerings when the show unspools Aug. 31 to Sept. 2 in Las Vegas. “The focus is on what’s new and exciting and what’s the best way to get customers back in stores,” said Chris DeMoulin, president of MAGIC International and executive vice president of the Advanstar

SHOW BUSINESS SHOW Fashion Group. “We expect to have a bigger, better and more successful show in August. There’s been a constant dialogue with exhibitors and retailers to find out what they are trying to accomplish. The customer seems to be adapting to working in a different economic environment. This is about people being more aggressive and trying to position themselves in the best possible place. With travel budgets down and customers looking to get the most out of a single trip, the intensity level seems to be up, especially with the show condensed into three days. “We were encouraged both by vendors retooling strategies and buyers really coming to do business,” DeMoulin said, noting that, while individual retailers may be opting to send fewer buyers, more stores are coming. MAGIC’s enhanced offerings include more matchmaking between exhibitors and retailers, more informal networking opportunities and more specialized staff dedicated to building brand relationships within each category. Among the format changes implemented in February were bringing the Accessories show to the Main Hall within WWDMAGIC and the introduction of Premium at MAGIC in both the women’s and men’s sections. Premium on the women’s side will feature premium labels such as Buffalo and Divine Rights of Denim (where spokesmodel Audrina Partridge is scheduled to make an appearance), and contemporary sportswear labels such as Yvette Mandell and OmniPeace, a licensed brand that sells in stores like Kitson in Los Angeles. “I wanted to come to MAGIC to show the brand as a full collection instead of just a licensing company with a lot of different licenses,” said OmniPeace founder Mary Fanaro, a first-time exhibitor who has attended the show as a guest. The humanitarian Hawking dresses at WWDMAGIC. fashion brand, which donates a portion of its proceeds to various charities, partners with accessories and apparel companies such as floor plans ahead of time and map out the shows. Love From Australia and Signorelli to produce items. With Advanstar’s acquisition of the Project and Pool shows last year, Nearly a quarter to a third of exhibitors will be brands new to the market, there is an even broader range of options for exhibitors, particularly for such as Seal Beach, Calif.-based Essentials by A.B.S., which will launch in the women’s wear. Pool features 70 percent women’s brands and 30 percent contemporary section with separates. men’s, and Project features 58 percent dual gender brands, 27 percent For Los Angeles-based young contemporary resource Miss Me, August women’s and 15 percent men’s brands. will be a time to expand its presence at the show. Last season, Miss Me Jeans “It’s given us the opportunity when we go meet with a brand to know had its own booth at WWDMAGIC, while the sportswear brands MM that we have the ideal platform for them to do business. By matching them Couture and Sweet shared another booth. The brands now will occupy three up with what they need, we can serve the life cycles of many brands,” adjacent booths on the show floor. DeMoulin said. In addition to thousands of domestic (and mostly California- and New “Pool is a place you go as a young company without a lot of money to York-based) companies, the European presence at the show continues to spend. For them, that’s really their first stop on the circuit. Project has build, with the addition of brands such as Mango looking to get back into become about higher-end designers with limited distribution.” the U.S. market. Other newcomers from Europe and Australia include Project is staggered to begin its three-day run a day after MAGIC and Motel, Société Europeenne De Confection, Look a Million Dollars, Sarissa Pool, giving buyers maximum time to spend at each show. Designs and 2B. International brands make up 11 percent of exhibitors. MAGIC also is aiming to keep costs to exhibitors down with a few new An increasing presence online also has helped preregistration jump booth packages that offer simple turnkey solutions as an alternative to significantly. “A lot of our communication has been on Web sites and blogs building a big expensive booth. as a great way to engage users,” said DeMoulin. “We are using Facebook “Some brands stay the same, some downsize,” said DeMoulin. Our and Twitter to find real advocates of the show. Social networking is a reality only goal is to make sure when they come to show they can get the best of how everyone in this industry keeps up to speed.” Improved tools on the return on investment. More people are opting to spend less on booths and home site, also available in PDA applications, also enable buyers to see the more time selling.”

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Swim vendors bring bold looks and bargain prices. middle ground By Rachel Brown M SWIMWEAR MAKERS ARE RESPONDING TO RETAILERS’ CALLS Trina Turk’s and for standout swimwear that looks pricy, but is affordable enough to tempt spandex . SWIMWEAR tight-fisted shoppers. They are also filling the gaps in the market for customers with specific swimwear desires that haven’t been fully addressed by the current assortments. “The consumer is buying what they love as opposed to just buying,” said Natalie Wierzba, national sales manager and merchandiser at Beach Rays, a division of Southern California swimwear manufacturer J.Y. Rays. “If something is OK, I don’t think it is good enough.” Color is one way to grab customers’ attention — and there will be plenty of it on the swimwear racks next year. Carlos Cortes, West Coast sales representative at Bell, Calif.-based Malibu Dream Girl, marketer of the Trina Tu Gossip, Gossip Girl, Gossip Collection, Ocean Dream Collection, Smoothies and Hula Star swimwear lines, noted that an Eighties influence continues to Dani Ka reverberate in Malibu Dream Girls’ collections for the upcoming season. “People are ready for color,” he said. “Brights have an intensity. They are not quite neon, but they are alive.” He cited teal, coral and pink as key colors. For spring-summer 2010, Susan Trinh, marketing coordinator for Toronto- based Phantom Industries, producer of Endless Sun, Martini Sol, California Waves and It Figures swimwear, seconded the importance of a bold palette and highlighted lime and blue as vital hues. Purple remains a top color choice. Dani Kates, designer of a new namesake line and three-seasons-old KanDi Swim, noted she has gotten a big response from retailers when she works purple into . “It is strong enough that it makes a statement, but it is not so in-your-face. It works well with a lot of different skin tones,” she said. In prints, animal has retained its strong position in the swimwear heap. New York-based Winki Swim LLC is combining animal print with flowers in its Winki Island . “It is very hot and trendy for next season still, but you have to mix it with something else,” said brand manager Marcella Garcia. With consumers searching for value, reversible swimwear styles are picking up steam. Beach Rays offers reversible girls’ boardshorts with prints on one side and solids on the other priced at roughly $19 to $23 wholesale. Malibu Dream Girl integrated reversibility into its solid line called Smoothies, wholesaling from around $7 to $12. “She [the swimwear shopper] can get four looks out of one set,” said Cortes.

Adjustability is a crucial selling point as well. ▲ Dani Kates’ nylon and Lycra spandex swimsuit. Kates pointed out two adjustable silhouettes — a KanDi Swim bandeau that can be modified on the sides and at the center and a Dani Kates fold-over bottom wholesale per piece, added underwire in halter and over-the- in Dani Kates that can be pulled up or down to change coverage shoulder tops. At the moment, shoppers looking for these styles — that are gaining momentum. KanDi Swim is priced at $20 to $24 would “have to buy an old-lady underwire or an underwire in a wholesale per swimwear item, and Dani Kates is $29 to $41. print that they don’t care for,” Cortes said. “They want to have it in a “It is really about catering to different body types,” she said. “I think that print that is cool and age appropriate.” is what helps swim sell well.” No matter the swimwear style or market segment, price is a major factor Swimwear gets a boost as well when it satisfies a particular consumer in retailers’ merchandising decisions as well as shoppers’ purchases. The demand. For example, Kates incorporated DD sizes into her Dani Kates line recession has ended the days of makers unveiling suits with more bells and because she was fielding requests for chic swimwear for DD wearers. “There whistles that bump up prices. In the rocky economic environment, most stay are a lot of customers out there right now looking for DDs, and they want well within a competitive range, and exceeding $100 is reserved for unique something that is fashion forward,” she said. pieces aimed at a select clientele. For juniors customers with large bustlines, Malibu Dream Girl brands Swimwear, Cortes emphasized, “has to be special” and “salable at the Gossip and Gossip Girl, which combined average at about $13.50 to $16.50 same time.” MODEL PHOTO BY HELLIN KAY; MODEL: KARA THOMS/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY JOHNNY STUNTZ AT PHOTOGENICSMEDIA.COM; JOHNNY STUNTZ AT THOMS/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY MODEL: KARA HELLIN KAY; MODEL PHOTO BY LEILA BABOI KRISTIN BURNS; STYLED BY STILL BY CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; AMY CHANCE FOR NARS COSMETICS AT MAKEUP BY

6 WWDMAGIC

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StudioVM’s polyester and Lycra spandex top and David Kahn Jeans’ cotton and elastane the economic crisis. jeans. Pour La Victoire shoes. Inset: MK2K’s “We are finding that buyers are focusing more on fashion styles than rayon and spandex and 213 Industry’s basics and we have had to adjust our designs accordingly. There is a lot polyester . Corso Como shoes. of competition [in the market] and everyone is paying more attention to details. We are no exception. People are looking for newness,” said Martin. To this end, the line is adding more texture and surface interest for spring, including twill tape and mesh details on T-, visible elastic, a group of chambray styles and a mix of knit and woven fabrics on select dresses. Wholesale prices start at $10 for basic T-shirts and tanks and $22 for dresses. A range of sells for $30 and cashmere styles start at about $70. Hype, a line of custom-printed dresses and tops priced at $44 to $88 wholesale, also is using more embellishment for holiday and spring, such as embroidery on prints, sequin trim on silk chiffon bodies and jeweled buttons. This attention to detail has helped boost sales figures, according to Lucy Thompson, a sales representative for the brand. “I believe the increase has been mainly due to our offering of key pieces made special by adding embellishment. This has been our survival strategy [during the economic downturn],” said Thompson, who declined to provide numbers. Standout styles for spring and resort include an embroidered mesh dress with cutouts at the back, a one-shoulder, silk and chiffon ruffled top and a group of sequin silk georgette dresses and tops. Charlotte Tarantola, owner and designer of a namesake and top line that sells to 4,000 specialty and major doors, said she has sold more novelty pieces than basics or solids since the economic falloff, and now is focusing on details for spring, offering brighter graphic prints, nautical appliqués, ruffles, shirring and knit mixing, echoing the need to lure customers with more bang for the buck. “I think consumers want to pay less than they used to and get more for it. If we don’t give that to them, they can get what they need at lots of places for very little money, so the pressure is on to deliver a product that can’t be beat in this price point,” said Tarantola, whose Culver City, Calif.-based line runs from $19 to $72 at wholesale. Similarly, Allen Allen, a 23-year-old contemporary company, is bringing holiday and resort immediates that focus on lots of CONTEMPORARY/YOUNG CONTEMPORARY CONTEMPORARY CONTEMPORARY/YOUNG color, tie- and dip-dyed washes and more embellishments. The firm has narrowed its offerings by about 25 percent, beyond basics according to national sales manager Kari Carpino. Its looks trend toward the fashion-conscious, with Bold looks and novelty styles help attract buyers. motorcycle , swingy tunics, tie-dyed and By Elizabeth Thurman boyfriend Henleys among its key styles, and fabrics provide special effects with ombré and plaid burnouts. The line wholesales from $19 to $54. CONTEMPORARY AND YOUNG CONTEMPORARY Like many other manufacturers, Allen Allen is brands again this season aim to whet retailers’ appetites with bold less inventory and doing more cut-to-order novelty styles and lots of merchandising options. pieces, said Carpino. Although buyers continue to whittle their budgets, cut back on “From an operation standpoint, our strategy is to be trade shows and exercise extreme caution when writing orders, as efficient as possible and continue to stick to the core manufacturers agree that playing it safe right now is counterintuitive of our business by offering a high-quality product at a to keeping their businesses afloat. Instead, brands head to value price,” she added. WWDMAGIC armed with spring and immediate offerings Charged with the task of penetrating an increasingly designed to entice buyers with newness and visual interest. shaky marketplace, newer brands are coming out Roseanne Morrison, fashion director for The Doneger Group, noted aggressively, much like some more-established lines, equally as several major trends in the market, including “tough-girl chic,” Eighties- determined to offer buyers product that pops. inspired motorcycle jackets and skinny legs à la Patti Smith, a “pre-World Jumping on spring’s Eighties-inspired denim trend, Kensie War II, cafe society” trend toward feminine — but not frilly — frocks and Denim, a division of Vancouver-based Kensie and its sister an emphasis on “mountain lodge” looks such as heavy cardigans, boyfriend brand, Mac & Jac, heads to WWDMAGIC with fashion- denim and plenty of plaid. forward denim jeans, and dresses in a range of washes, “We’re definitely seeing a lot of really strong, well-defined trend cuts and treatments. Core styles in straight and skinny legs stories this season,” said Morrison, adding that spring looks are heavy on and medium-to-dark rinses prevail, but get a healthy dose details, albeit carefully placed, such as texture, zippers, mixed media and of novelty from looks such as distressed denim harem embroidery. pants, an acid-rinse tulip skirt, halter and harem jumpers Shanon Martin, sales manager for LA Made, said buyers can expect and dressy, high-waisted pants and shorts. Wholesale trendier offerings from the traditionally basic line — a move facilitated by prices run from $30 to $45. PHOTOS BY HELLIN KAY; MODELS: NIKI CLOYD/INDUSTRY MODELS AND ALLA/WILHELMINA; HAIR BY JOHNNY STUNTZ AT PHOTOGENICSMEDIA.COM; MODELS AND ALLA/WILHELMINA; JOHNNY STUNTZ AT HAIR BY MODELS: NIKI CLOYD/INDUSTRY HELLIN KAY; PHOTOS BY LEILA BABOI STYLED BY CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; AMY CHANCE FOR NARS COSMETICS AT MAKEUP BY

8 WWDMAGIC

wMAGa008a;9.indd 1 8/7/09 2:39:53 PM LUXURY FOR LIFE So soft, you can’t resist a caress.

So exclusive, less than 1% of the world’s cotton can be called Supima. Grown only in California and the southwest, then designed into women’s, men’s and home fashions.

For those who embrace luxury and treasure comfort. I www.supima.com MG0817_P010_0CAC0.indd 1 wMAGa010a;6.indd 1 JUNIORS whenever we see something that sells, we take it to the next level,” said Robert including in green belts metallic and blue, and rolling out iridescent jeans. holiday with denim, adding rhinestones and embroidery to back pockets,its nailheads down the seams. Wholesale prices range from $16the to placement$22. of rhinestones and new hardware details,and suchpainting as round are aand few square of the techniques used to enlivenand the flared dungarees denim, accordingalong with to Albert Shehebar, president.York-based Ripping, pinching Dollhouse is showcasing up to 30 newwashes, washes colors for andspring embellishments for its skinny while still keeping the item value-driven.New to wear with flip-flops, flats or Ugg . But, they’re focused on pigment of customersLots don’t own color, and that’s what’s getting them excited.” wallets, they need something they don’t own. They need emotional buys. merchandise manager of Directives West.“To get customers to open their incorporated into their creations. designers have found a theme that resonates with the junior girl and is easily spring ready-to-wear runways, which were rich with Eighties references, and T-shirts shimmer with sequined desi and spring, unveiling color, shine and heavily distressed fabrics to woo buyers. CALL IT BASICSTHE ANTIDOTE. growing bolder spandex romper. XOXO’s polyester and “We just did a reorder of 20,000 jeans in rinsed denim with rhinestones…so Jou Jou, New York, is practically walking down “Electric Avenue” for Denim firms haven’t abandoned clean, dark skinny jeans that are must-haves “This is not a basics time,” said Janine Blaine, vice president and general Denim is getting torn and shredded, are skirts a-twirl in hot pink Junior brands at WWDMAGIC are taking some fashion risks for fall-holiday gns. Taking their cues from the Junior looks load on the embellishment. dress. Pop Eyewear dress. Pop Eyewear bracelets; Charles bracelets; Charles Celebrity Pink’s Celebrity Pink’s Bee Charming Bee Charming cotton denim cotton denim David shoes. David shoes. ; sunglasses; into shirts. Long T-shirts, raglans, “shark bite” styl designs, such as peace signs outline washes, glitter and sequins. The San Fernando, Calif.-based line is creating and Couture labels, is embracing Eighties glamour with T-shirts treated with prices average $10. Jem Sportswear, maker of the Awake updated with metallics at Mighty Fine, where wholesale Peanuts, Hello Kitty and “Sesame Street” are getting pedestrian item to fashion status. Characters from also heaping on the ornamentation to elevate the Acampora, executive vice president of the company. blue punch up the clothes even more, said Directives West’s Blaine. dolled up with oversize sweaters. Shades of purple, berry, fuchsia and cobalt party dresses in knit-woven of Jem. “If it’s special, it will sell out. But, dumb screen prints offer no value.” the highlighted silhouettes with wholesale prices ranging from $18 to $48. in our product,” said Suzanne Desiderio, president of without giving up any of the details or embellishments that have been successful lowered wholesaleits prices to $17 to $39. stretch bottoms. To help give the shopper a reason to celebrate, embracing shine and new fabric choices for the season, including four-way about February. They’re not sure around be if inthey’ll February.” Honeydew. “People want to make cash registers ring today. They don’t care sticking to immediates based on retailers’ skittishness to commit so far ahead. are the main color focus in purple and navy, and prices rangedesigns from on the$5 toboy $8.shorts, and at Honeydew Intimates. Jewel tones whole vibe of bamboo and serenity work spa stores,” said Vinh Luong, director of sales and marketing for Spreegirl. “The new doors, literally, for the -maker. and coconuts, withall a wholesale range of $4 to $35. The category is opening bottoms and a . It’s also planning to unveil styles using soy-based fabrics adding more modal and silk chiffon bamboo, in chemises, , bras, Denim’s casual counterpart, the T-shirt, is Sweater dresses and sheath are shapes key looks from Defying the current blue holiday mood, looks get festive with party skirts, Stark, Orna president buy said it,” valueshe’ll and with “Giveshirt a her “We have brought our retail down anywhere from $5 to $10 from a year ago “Nobody is really out,” saidbooking Benny Zafrani, creative director at While some larger companies are touting their spring fashions, many are Preppy skulls, neon, polkadots and golden leopard prints are a few of the “Beyond selling to traditional lingerie stores, we’re now adding gift stores and On the intimates side, Spreegirl is expanding eco-friendlyits offerings by By Nola Sarkisian-Miller combinations paired with cardigans and d in sequins, and sewing necklace pieces s with different es and h XOXO types oodies XOXO, w spandex and panty. Honeydew’s nylon and Apparel. of retailers.” XOXO has are among hich is 8/7/09 2:40:33PM 8/10/09 11:03AM MODEL PHOTOS BY HELLIN KAY; MODEL: ERIN ZAJAC/CLICK; HAIR BY JOHNNY STUNTZ AT PHOTOGENICSMEDIA.COM; MAKEUP BY AMY CHANCE FOR NARS COSMETICS AT CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; STILL BY KRISTIN BURNS; STYLED BY LEILA BABOI

Velvet Heart’s silk top and cotton and spandex denim shorts. Buffalo David Bitton’s cotton and spandex denim shorts. PREMIUM

Velv A factor that fits Buf Div taking off Premium enters its second show with twice as many exhibitors. By Beth Wilson

SINCE ITS INCEPTION IN FEBRUARY, PREMIUM HAS COME INTO its own. “Premium really took off,” Christopher Griffin, WWDMAGIC show director, said, adding that the area dedicated to advanced women’s contemporary resources has more than doubled in size since launching in February. The concept took shape as organizers of the Project trade show narrowed its focus to concentrate on more directional brands. In turn, they created Premium at MAGIC for brands with broader distribution. Lines participating include Desigual, Buffalo Jeans, Velvet Heart, Royal Plush, At Wells Fargo Trade Capital, we benefit from the Zoa and Lucky Brand Footwear. One line new on the roster, Divine Rights of Denim, strength and stability of our parent company, which will heighten buzz at the show with an appearance by Audrina Partridge of MTV’s means you benefit from a full line of solutions from “The Hills.” Partridge is the face of the denim brand, which specializes in jeans that a company you can trust. retail for $78 or less. Partridge, who will be on hand Sept. 1, is a good fit for the one-year-old company because “she’s confident and she definitely knows how to wear denim,” said Marlo ƌɄ Factoring and Receivables Management Services Williams, Divine Rights’ sales manager. ƌɄ Import & Export Financing At Premium, Divine Rights will show denim with python and leopard prints, ƌɄ Letters of Credit denim in colors such as yellow and warm red, as well as dresses, shorts and dresses ƌɄ Supply Chain Financing with jackets. ƌɄ Accounts Receivable and Inventory Financing “The price point has helped us out in this economy,” Williams said of the Gardena, Calif.-based company, which counts Arden B. as one of its main accounts. The company opted to participate in Premium to show alongside its competition. “We’re definitely among our peers here,” she added. For a quick response and tailor-made solutions, This edition of Premium is expected to showcase about 100 call us today! brands over 10,000 square feet. The area features lower booth heights and creates more Wells Fargo Trade Capital of a stadium effect that �-���-���-���� organizers say is easier to wellsfargo.com/tradecapital manage. The booths with white acrylic panels and metal trim sit on a floor of polished concrete in somewhat of a square, surrounding a lounge in the center. Divine Rights of Denim’s cotton � ���� Wells Fargo Trade Capital. All rights reserved. and spandex denim jeans. MODEL PHOTO BY HELLIN KAY; MODEL: ERIN ZAJAC/CLICK; HAIR BY JOHNNY STUNTZ AT PHOTOGENICSMEDIA.COM; JOHNNY STUNTZ AT MODEL: ERIN ZAJAC/CLICK; HAIR BY HELLIN KAY; MODEL PHOTO BY LEILA BABOI KRISTIN BURNS; STYLED BY STILLS BY CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; AMY CHANCE FOR NARS COSMETICS AT MAKEUP BY

MG0817_P012_0CAC0.inddwMAGa012a;9.indd 1 1 8/7/09 2:48:132:39:14 PM wMAGa013d;11.indd 1 MG0817_P013r_0CAC0.indd 1

PHOTO BY HELLIN KAY; MODEL: KIM KAJOHN; HAIR BY JOHNNY STUNTZ AT PHOTOGENICSMEDIA.COM; MAKEUP BY AMY CHANCE FOR NARS COSMETICS AT CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; STYLED BY LEILA BABOI green growth owner and designer. different,” said Bonnie Siefers, painting. Each piece will look and they blend like a watercolor the dyes go on almost free-form, dye technique in Istanbul where spandex . technique and on bamboo plus an printingartistic and spandex,corn, bamboo introduce a stretch knit of sportswear and dresses, will fabrics for streamlined organic and sustainable prices,” said Martin. that will help them hold their an opportunity to tell a story because it might give them suddenly find that appealing, product or made-in-the-U.S. been as interested in green “Now, people who had not more attention at the show. vendors might attract sewn from recycled T-shirts. colorful patchwork of vintage men’s suits and quirky women’s totes made Green 3, which will exhibit said Jim owner Martin, of differentiate yourself,” blend crafted with corn fiber. and knits, stretch satin Among the newest fabrics are prints made with plant dyes on organic recycled textiles that spice up sustainable fashion with pattern, texture and flair. WWDMAGIC that made its debut a year ago, will spotlight innovative and EXHIBITORS AT ECOLLECTION, GREENTHE SECTOR OF the category’s second year. Ecollection vendors hope for increased business in Me’s polyester and rayon pants. spandex tank and MM Couture by Miss Corporation’s organic cotton and Earth Co b.organic by Z-Ply Me’s polyester and rayon pants. spandex tank and MM Couture by Miss Corporation’s organic cotton and Earth Co b.organic by Z-Ply “I discovered a watercolor Jonano, which develops He feels eco-conscious “As more getpeople into green, you need to have something to woven from bamboo, organic cotton crepe and a knit By Holly Haber wovens unusual andwe have very goodprices,especiallyfor anorganic cotton line.” prints andcolors,”sheadded.“It for wasline itisso springbecause ourbest and tops wholesaling from to“We $20 $29. cameupwithalotofinteresting year and expanded for spring, Botanical Impressions mixes the fabrics in dresses executive officer of the French firm’s North American division. andwovensknits colored withplant-based dyes, Leroux,chief saidLeslie First shipped this intensive process than the customary practice of boiling the fiberscocoons, extracted she noted. from silk cocoons without destroying the worms,lined a more with labor- silk charmeuse. The textured, linenlike outer fabric“Love” is or “Dream,” and top out at $79 for a long zip jacketdelivery. in a nubby slate Wholesale silk prices start at $12 for organic bamboopieces T-shirts of lingerie printed — a ,with boyshorts, pants and kimono for immediate Ethos Paris highlight will Impressions Botanical its oforganic line cotton The corn blend in black or a flecked neutral will be featured in Jonano’s first woven from

8/10/09 12:32:10 PM ECOLLECTION 8/10/09 12:48PM something

With customers often reluctant to make a purchase, a extra unique twist can make the difference. By Beth Wilson SOME WOMEN’S SPORTSWEAR VENDORS ARE COUNTING ON convertible clothing and bold colors to entice shoppers. Linda Lundstrom, creative director for Eleventh Floor Apparel Ltd., which purchased Linda Lundstrom Inc. last year, said her line plans to present 25 convertible styles including tops that can be worn back to front as either a bateau- or V-neck style, and skirts that can be worn as dresses or . In addition, the Toronto-based line plans to show three- quarter-length reversible trenchcoats, with one style showing a small black Lily Inc.’s polyester and spandex ginghamlike print on one side and solid black on the other. dress. Cinzia Designs sunglasses. “I think [shoppers] can justify that,” Lundstrom said. “They can buy a Nic skirt that they can pull up and wear as a dress. It’s doing double duty. In this plans to incorporate ombré looks Lun economy, I’m working harder, and the clothes are working harder, too.” and show strong hues grounded by The line makes its WWDMAGIC debut, wholesaling for $50 to $350. neutral bottoms. In particular, the Lily Lundstrom predicts strong sellers will be those that incorporate bold New York-based line will introduce colors, such as persimmon red and cobalt blue, along with those boasting groups showcasing indigos and prints like a golden yellow jungle motif paired with neutrals. Some dresses in warm sand, graphic black and whites particular make a strong statement in ombré silk, featuring two colors on the with yellow lime and peony or with front and another two colors on the back. neutral greens paired with turquoise. The line also features another more primal or primitive print incorporating Known for its sweaters, Nic a version of an ancient language and pictographs that translate into “warrior + Zoe also will offer its version woman.” Whether buyers will pick up on the theme remains to be seen, but Lundstrom’s silk of the boyfriend with WOMEN’S SPORTSWEAR/DRESSES WOMEN’S Lundstrom believes it may unknowingly draw them. “There may be something jersey dress. Pour mixed yarns, space dyes and about it that compels them to walk in,” she said. “It speaks a universal language.” La Victoire shoes. different textures from pointelle Overall, shoppers now are looking to purchase special or striking pieces to patchwork. It also will utilize that will work with their current wardrobes, Lundstrom added. ombré, tie-dye and dip-dye treatments with its sweaters and woven pieces. Versatile fashions such as reversible dresses and skirts from Eva Varro Browne also predicts customers will respond well to the trend of likely will be among the line’s stronger sellers, said Lynn Girard, who owns a incorporating into sweaters, with styles featuring knit balls that showroom at the California Market Center. resemble a necklace, eliminating the need for jewelry. Varro also will include a higher-end collection of silk jersey pieces in bright With wholesale prices ranging from $19.50 for basic tanks to $79 for pink, aqua, lime green and shades of purple. “When the economy’s bad, woven jackets and embellished skirts, Nic + Zoe also will feature denim skirts people want what’s not hanging in their closet, and they want happy colors with different silhouettes, pin-striped and seersucker cotton blend long and that make them feel good,” Girard said. Wholesale prices range from $32 for cropped pants and lightweight knit skirts in lengths ranging from the longer a tank to $78 for a dress, with silk styles priced higher. patio skirt to a flirt skirt that hits just below the knee. Girard also will present Fabrizio Gianni’s collection of jersey tops and pants, Dimitri Komarov, owner and president of Dimitri, Los Angeles, will each in 20 colors, with tops in coral, mint green, grass green and cobalt. The continue to focus on dresses and skirts for his cruise line. It will include line’s best-selling jeans, at $75 wholesale, will hang alongside its stretch poplin pleated dresses, tunics, chiffon and resort cover-ups along with , which proved to be a sleeper hit last year. traditional mother-of-the-bride in greens, purples and yellows. This year, the line is introducing three lengths of the cargo look — full, “Skirts and dresses will continue to be key,” he said, noting that his business Bermuda and capri — in a variety of colors, wholesaling from $65 to $75. In has been 75 percent dress driven for the past few years. Wholesale prices range all, pieces wholesale for $35 for a sleeveless top to $80 for novelty . from $65 for a -sleeve buttoned to $90 for a beaded tunic dress to Now, in particular, “it’s more about the value than the trend,” said Jim $140 for a double-layer full-length . Komarov, who counts Nordstrom Carpenter, sales manager for Scully Sportswear in Oxnard, Calif. “Price- among his major accounts, said he also will show holiday pieces in burnout sensitive merchandise has a place in this market where it didn’t two years ago.” velvets in rich hues of deep purple and emerald as well as black and charcoal Leather jackets account for 50 percent of the line, which also offers for those doing last-minute shopping. “Everyone’s buying things down to the blouses and skirts, at $75 to $160 wholesale. wire,” he said. The line also features items made with its version of pashmina in Like Lundstrom, Julie Jordan Browne, director of sales for Nic + Zoe, also washed-out prints. Tunics wholesale for $80 and dresses go for $129.

about 100 North American and European labels Additional lines showing at White include wholesaling from $60 to $300. Lines of Denmark, Carlopik, Didier Parakian, 172 white hot The 10,000-square-foot area also has added Grams and Puli, among others. WHITE, A SEGMENT OF WWDMAGIC FOR an accessories component and will be home to Dimitri Komarov, owner and president of Dimitri, women’s better-to-bridge resources, keeps growing the contemporary line launch of Kenley Collins, said his Los Angeles-based line will continue to despite the economic slowdown. a former fifth-season “Project Runway” finalist, participate in White because of its past success there. “I Launched in February 2007 with about 40 lines, who will be on hand to show her spring 2010 like how it’s very streamlined, clean and nondescript,” the area known for its elegant, white-dominated collection of vintage-inspired silk organza, tulle he said. “It’s a good way to represent your label.” decor and minimalistic vibe has grown to feature and silk shantung dresses and accessories. — B.W. PHOTOS BY HELLIN KAY; MODELS: ALLA/WILHELMINA AND ERIN ZAJAC/CLICK; HAIR BY JOHNNY STUNTZ AT PHOTOGENICSMEDIA.COM; JOHNNY STUNTZ AT MODELS: ALLA/WILHELMINA AND ERIN ZAJAC/CLICK; HAIR BY HELLIN KAY; PHOTOS BY LEILA BABOI STYLED BY CELESTINEAGENCY.COM; AMY CHANCE FOR NARS COSMETICS AT MAKEUP BY

14 WWDMAGIC

wMAGa014a;9.indd 1 8/7/09 4:10:44 PM ACCESSORIES easy options Accessories provide lots of flexibility. By Beth Wilson

Marciano alloy and stainless steel .

THE THREE BUZZWORDS IN ACCESSORIES NEXT statement hardware on the bags, most of which retail for less than spring are colorful, casual and versatile, vendors say. $200, with wholesale prices ranging from $39 for mini cross-body That’s because accessories companies, from bags to $150 for some of the larger . “We’re trying hard jewelry to handbags, have identified that women to keep the prices well under $100, but we use Italian skins, so want distinctive colorful statement pieces it’s a big challenge,” Radford said. designed to modernize their potentially older Color also shapes Urban Posh’s spring assortment, where wardrobes — that often incorporate denim. Kirkland noted she attempts to appeal to two customers — “In these times, it needs to be denim-friendly those who love bursts of color and vivid shades of orange, green and casual,” said Martha Radford, design and purple, and those who prefer a more neutral palette. director for Hobo International. “Everyone In turn, she offers more modern, chandelier-style isn’t getting dressed up all the time anymore.” with marquise-cut stones and dangling leaves in smoky topaz and Jeanne Kirkland, chief executive officer and more vibrant stones. The earrings, which Kirkland said will be a M designer for Urban Posh, an Austin, Tex.-based strong seller, are wholesaling for $45 to $65. She predicted another jewelry line, has recognized the same dynamic. top performer will be a gold cuff with cutouts and large gemstones B

“In this economy, people are looking for things to set in a floral pattern, at $85 wholesale. P go day into night,” Kirkland said, noting many of her Potluck Paris Overall, the line, which averages at $40 wholesale, ranges copper, white bestsellers can be paired as easily with jeans and a metal and silver from $12 for a single leaf stack ring to $161 for a large gold, R T-shirt as with a . bracelet. purple and green hydro quartz necklace. From a jewelry standpoint, Kirkland believes And as colorful scarves were the must-have item last shoppers are searching for more subdued spring, Alexia Crawford, owner of the New York-based statement pieces. “Before it was more ‘in your line bearing her name, observed that some buyers face,’” she said. “Now it’s just as bold but are looking for hair accessories to take their place. more refined.” “Everybody’s looking for the next trend,” said Crawford, Instead of big, chunky necklaces, whose line sells to Forever 21 and Arden B. “Scarves were Urban Posh now spotlights necklaces with hot last spring, and now they’re oversaturated.” large medallions or pendants and more layered Hair accessories, particularly jeweled items wholesaling chains. Kirkland added shoppers are looking to for $4 to $8, have been her strongest-selling category, she said. accessories to liven up last year’s clothes. “A lot of Regis Ales brass Other top performers are metallic mesh coin purses at $2 to $4, and people are staying with the they have and nickel-plated suede bracelets from $4 to $18. and popping it with accessories,” she said. crystal earrings. Overall, the moderate price point has helped the line survive during the For Big Buddha, a Santa Cruz, Calif.-based line of economic downturn, Crawford said. “We’re holding our own,” she said. “On nonleather goods, a casual vibe always has been part of its the plus side, we’re in junior chain stores and they’re doing OK, but people aesthetic. As a result, color also is a critical component are very conscious of what they’re spending.” to many accessories lines. Designer Jeremy Bassan is That means in today’s marketplace, accessories need to be more introducing handbags with a pink lining, as well as Big Buddha just than on-trend; they must possess that crucial combination of bags in natural shades, turquoise and coral. They all polyurethane bag. quality, design and value. wholesale at between $34 and $38. Big Buddha also “We all just have to work a lot harder,” said Radford of Hobo, will produce tie-dyed canvas bags with leatherlike noting that, when people are spending less on themselves, trim and tassels and hibiscus floral embroidery. an accessory must stand out. “You have to have it. Back at Hobo, for spring, the company [The product] has to be so fantastic that you’re full will unveil brightly colored patent clutches of remorse if you don’t buy it.” To that end, Hobo and mini cross-body styles in black, lime, is focused on functional bags with an edge. turquoise, fuchsia and a floral print. That philosophy is shared by Big Buddha, “Those are statement bags,” Radford said. which has chosen to emphasize its function Its mini cross-body and basic shoulder and styling with new customized hangtags that bags are made of Italian goatskin in contain a drawing of a model wearing that pebble, saffron, clay red and blue style of on the front, and on the with braiding, stitching treatment back, lists its three top features, such as an and antique brass hardware. Additionally, adjustable strap allowing the bag to be Hobo will offer satchels, clutches and carried over the shoulder or across the cross-body styles in black, maple, mustard body, messenger-style. Additionally, and coral among other shades in its vintage each bag will now include a logo key fob leather collection. and ID/credit card case. Said Bassan: New details include folding, pleating, “We’re trying to give our customers more stud treatments, wider zippers and for the same price.” PHOTOS BY KRISTIN BURNS; STYLED BY LEILA BABOI KRISTIN BURNS; STYLED BY PHOTOS BY

WWDMAGIC 15

wMAGa015a;6.indd 1 8/7/09 5:22:19 PM A Report leather . over the top

SHOES Spring footwear focuses on heavily detailed looks. By Katherine Bowers

In terms of color, blues and purples are expected to be strong for spring as well as dusty neutrals (tans, mushroom taupes, pale greens and rose beige). Metallics have become a staple in the customer’s wardrobe and are expected to run through spring. Based on trend-scouting trips to Europe, vendors A BASIC, UNADORNED HAS believe gladiators and peep-toe booties will continue as a virtually no reason to exist anymore. These days, it’s all about consumer favorite. footwear with notice-me shelf appeal — extra buckles and wrapping Moreno Habif, president of Miami-based More straps, exposed zippers, ruffles, pleating, topstitching, earthy Shoes, makers of the Enigma label, is offering gladiators polished stones and flat studs. Even stretch-fit shoes, after several with colorful, braided straps and contrast stitching. He’s strong seasons, are trending downward because they curl up and don’t also seen strong interest in double platform shoes, a look display decorative detail well, said several vendors planning to show popularized by high-end label Giuseppe Zanotti. at WWDMAGIC. Report Shoes, based in Bellevue, Wash., also is bullish on “The trend is overembellishment,” said Sheena platform sandals, as well as high-drama, over-the-knee boots. Parks, marketing director for El Segundo, Calif.-based “Customers have been responding well to ruffles, prints Matisse Footwear. “Anything we can sew onto an upper, and anything with hardware on it,” said Jeff Powers, Report’s we’re using.” senior vice president. The 10-year-old firm will bring three labels to the show: Chinese , which will bring its flagship label and three Matisse, at $27 to $64 wholesale; Coconuts, at $22 to $32, subbrands to the expo, is seeing block heels, espadrilles, stitching and The Mix, a new offering that was a Nordstrom accents and burnished leathers fare well. The company will test exclusive in its first season, at $25 to $45. A Very Volatile leather and cork wedge. shoes with macramé uppers for its CL by Laundry label for spring, said brand president Tsering Namgyal. Flojos, in Thousand Oaks, Calif., also is seeing continued Seventies influences. The company feels strongly about its peace-sign Harmony flip-flops as well as animal exotics (boa, jaguar and zebra), said marketing executive Tiffany Eil. Stewart Cohen, national account manager for Dreams, says the affordable junior brand will test huaraches alongside gladiators and peep-toe styles. when others fail... Along with trends, the City of Industry, Calif.-based company is focused on finishing details, such as rolled edges to hide seams, which waitex aims to appeal to customers trading down from department stores. provides “Our new designer, Jo Mortellaro, is traveling around the world Complete end-to-end supply chain solutions to get new ideas about how to make our shoes look like a much more elevated brand,” Cohen said. ‹ `LHYZVML_WLYPLUJLPU[OLNHYTLU[PUK\Z[Y` ‹TPSSPVUZXM[VMTVKLYUKPZ[YPI\[PVUMHJPSP[PLZPU5L^ @VYR5L^1LYZL` 3VZ(UNLSLZ Corso Como leather shoes. Re ‹ZLY]PJLZWLJPHSPZ[ZPU[OL<: ‹,+0<** (:5;4:ZJHU WHJRJHWHIPSP[` Ve ‹*VTWSL[LIHJRVMÄJLKH[HWYVJLZZPUNZLY]PJLZ Co ‹(WWHYLS,97ZVM[^HYLVUKLTHUK]PHYLTV[LHJJLZZ ‹7PJRWHJR ZOPWI`WPLJLVYWYLWHJRLKJHY[VU ‹.6/-SH[WHJRZ[VYHNLI`JHY[VU\UP[ZXM[ ‹.HYTLU[YLM\YIPZOTLU[HUKSHILSZL^PUN ‹/VMMTHU7YLZZ:[LHT[\UULS ‹7\YJOHZLVYKLYÄUHUJPUN3+77YVNYHT For a risk-free assessment: 5@)HYY`!   3((SMYLK!   

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MG0817_P016_0CAC0.inddwMAGa016a;4.indd 1 1 8/7/09 5:40:175:37:13 PM MG0817_P017_0CAC0.indd 1 wMAGa017a;7.indd 1 “Flashdance” sweatshirts using geometric patterns, colorblocking and stripes “Flashdance” sweatshirtspatterns, andstripes usinggeometric colorblocking century factoryworker, andfadedWestern printsandplaidswithdungarees. boys, thisthemeincludes durable work pantsandoveralls for fit anearly-20th- prints.For ginghamandLiberty insoftcalico, andskirts as peasantblouses candy Ross stripes, said. and inpinkandmint andprintsoflollipops petticoats withtulle skirts full inAmerica,likehappier times aFifties-candy-store theme for girls thathas director andtrend forecaster for TheDonegerGroup. versatility andmultiple from uses, play tosaidJamie school,” Ross, acreative to outerwear andblazersto accessorize “It’s outfits. aboutapparel’s all with novelty prints,embroidery ordropped waists, usedasalternatives withhappypricesareappliqués Wholesale messages. $8to $34. fashioned.Thegarments for can be 2-to 6-year-olds alsocomewithcollectible there are seven andfour silhouettes colors—out ofwhich different 200 outfits show. of95 Angeles MadeinLos percent organic cotton and5percent spandex, for your money,” saidKristen Borden, whose fashionsare bowingatthetrade spring andsummerisgiving customers goodvalue. it’s notsurprisingthattheoverriding children’s apparel fashiontrend for next ECONOMICWITH THE DOLDRUMS Children’s wearvendorsoffer customersmore fortheirmoney. ByJoannaRamey The Eighties are recast graphic alsobeing forasinbold T-shirts kids, all and Other designsinclude prairiefor andrusticAmericanalooks girls, such The narratives children’s behind fashionsfor theseasonalsoreference garments include lightweightOther examples ofdouble-duty toppers Take Grace thelabel 4Girlz: “All are theclothes reversible. You getalot bang for the buck the for bang EXPECTED TO LINGER, Jacquelyn Doran-Blauvelt. buying atremendous thegiftisgetting value,” saidmarketing associate in abakery box insideareusable cupcake andwitharecipe. liner “Anyone girls’ accessory company High IntenCity, inFair based Lawn, N.J. oficeandrainbows,necklaces withpendants creambubble cones, hearts by moregetting for theirmoney,” Ross said. in apparel vendor ayear lineups from now. “It gives customers thesenseof forleggings theprice ofoneandfake-layered T-shirts key be —alsowill adults, andit’scomingfrom themommy bloggers.” yourself, Berelovich said.“It’s now happening with likelooks patchedorcolored you’ve embellished, Fashion Snoops. Berelovich, president ofNew York-based forecaster African print, andthecolorisfrom Cuba,” saidLilly serapedressesstriped for girls for andshirts boys. such look, in a retro as Mexican-inspired pan-ethnic fuchsia, teal,anddeepred purple —are emphasized of bright colorssuch asgrape andturquoise. Called CharmCandy, thenecklaces,which wholesale for $9, are nested atwofer newGetting sterling ofthemessagebehind ispart silver Fashion withtunics,three withpants,leggings perks pairsof —belts Another girl-and-boy springtrend is clothingthat “You might have Mexican embroidery, but over an Additionally, richcolors—includingorange, ĉĀĀŏććĆŏąćăĂŏđŏŏāĈĊĂć Brooksfi eld. A lookfrom 8/7/09 5:33:52PM 8/7/09 5:27:28PM KIDS MAGIC marketplace Las Vegas Convention Center and Las Vegas Hilton, Aug. 31 to Sept. 2. Sourcing at MAGIC begins Aug. 30. CALENDAR Schedule is accurate as of press time, but subject to change, and attendees are encouraged to confirm information.

SHOW HOURS Aug. 30: Noon to 6 p.m. (Sourcing at MAGIC) Aug. 31: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sept. 1-2: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.

The MAGIC Marketplace consists of: • MAGIC (men’s apparel and accessories) • WWDMAGIC (women’s apparel and accessories) • MAGIC kids (children’s apparel and accessories) • Sourcing at MAGIC (international apparel contract manufacturers; fabric and trim manufacturers, and service providers) elements, a view of interactive FOOD SERVICES Hall and the Gold Parking Lot. applications and designs using Special Lunch Program • Aug. 31: 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. SHOW AMENITIES Crystallized Swarovski Elements. • $5 lunches are available to exhibitors • Sept. 1-2: 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Buyers Suite: Relax, eat, check Booth 17629 (in WHITE section), and retailers at designated locations e-mail and network at this buyers- North Hall, LVCC throughout the exhibit halls. Hotel Shuttle Service only lounge. Continuous shuttle service between • Grand Lobby, Room N109, LVCC WWD Internet Lounge: See how TRAVEL SERVICES select MAGIC hotels and the Las designer looks from the runways Discounted room blocks starting at Vegas Convention Center. Retail Relations Team: Get insider translate into wearable trends. $50 per night are available through Aug. 31: 7:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.* tips from MAGIC’s retail relations Grand Lobby, North Hall, LVCC Travel Planners Inc. Sept. 1-2: 7:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.* specialists at the Buyer’s Suite. * Service ceases daily between Category specialists will provide New Buyer Seminar: Held on Aug. TRANSPORTATION 11 a.m. and 2:30 p.m. visuals and product catalogues of 31, this seminar offers advice and Scooter rental is available at the new brands available throughout the tips on navigating the show floor. show. Check with show organizers Airport Shuttle Service show floor. for information. Hourly from the Las Vegas Convention Twilight Reception: Aug. 31, Center to McCarran Airport. Shuttles Swarovski Crystallized Elements 5 to 7 p.m., floor wide, North Gold Lot Shuttle Service are located in front of the LVCC. Lounge: A display of crystal Hall, LVCC Transportation between Central Sept. 2: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.

MG0817_P018_0CAC0.inddwMAGa018a;8.indd 1 1 8/7/09 5:45:505:43:31 PM