Disappearing Rains Help Buyer Traffic at LA Market LA Textile Offers An

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$2.99 VOLUME 75, NUMBER 11 MARCH 15–21, 2019 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 74 YEARS

TRADE SHOW REPORT Disappearing Rains Help Buyer Traffic at LA Market By Andrew Asch, Deborah Belgum and Dorothy Crouch A Los Angeles winter of heavy rains and unprecedented cold weather lifted for buyers attending the March 11–13 LA Market Week. At the three-day show, buyers were in search of streetwear, colorful prints and anything that was trending, including plaids and stripes, midi skirts and boho looks— plus Immediates for California stores wanting to restock warmer-weather clothing. At the California Market Center, buyers were greeted with a pop of color at the front lobby, which was decked out in bright umbrellas hanging upside down from the front atrium, lending a certain Mary Poppins feel to the space. The lobby also featured an arrangement of couches, ta- bles and a tower of USB cords to keep buyers connected in an inviting atmosphere to contemplate their orders and make final buying decisions. ➥ LA Market page 8

TRADE SHOW REPORT UPSIDE DOWN: The lobby of the California Market Center was decked out for the LA Textile show as well as LA Market Week with a creative collection of fabric. LA Textile Offers an Fashion Designer Mossimo Giannulli and Wife Experiential Show to Accused of Paying Bribes to Get Daughters Into USC Generate Buyer Interest By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor the girls as I have some concerns and want to fully understand the game plan and make sure we have a roadmap for success as By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor Los Angeles fashion designer Mossimo Giannulli and his it relates to [our daughter] and getting her into a school other wife were named in a massive federal indictment accusing than ASU [Arizona State University]!” This season, the LA Textile show blended experiences wealthy individuals of paying bribes to get their children into A few months later, the cooperating witness sent an email with business to make the event more than a showcase for prestigious universities. to Giannulli informing him that his oldest daughter, Isabella materials and manufacturing. In a federal criminal complaint unsealed on March 12, Rose, had academic qualifications that were at or just below The California Market Center, which organized the March prosecutors in Massachusetts, California, Texas, Florida and the low end of USC’s admissions standards. 6–8 show, held in the CMC building, attracted brands and de- North Carolina accused 13 coaches, 33 parents and various Court files show that Giannulli then agreed in an email signers through a showcase of Spring/Summer 2020 textile of- academic-test givers of being involved in a scheme to get un- to the cooperating witness to use bribes to facilitate Isabella ferings, educational seminars and experiential amenities. derperforming students into elite schools across the country. Rose’s admission to USC as a recruited crew coxswain, even In addition to the Sustainable Fashion Forum, held The indictment, which covers activity that started in 2011, though she did not row competitively or otherwise participate March 7, the show hosted seminars covering topics that in- included accusations of bribes to get students into Yale Uni- in crew. cluded domestic organic-textile regulations and emerging versity, Stanford University, the University of California, USC’s senior women’s athletic director, Donna Heinel, trends that will influence fashion for Spring/Summer 2020. Los Angeles, the University of Texas and Georgetown Uni- then presented Isabella Rose to the USC subcommittee for Christine Daal, an exhibitor and founder of Fashion An- versity. Sometimes bribes were paid to test takers to help athletic admissions “as a purported crew recruit,” the indict- gel Warrior, was at the show to help guide designers to students cheat on entrance exams or to test givers who gave ment said. At the meeting, the subcommittee approved her launch their brands. She spoke at a seminar called “Top 14 students answers to the tests or even corrected their incorrect conditional admission to the university. ➥ LA Textile Show page 3 answers afterward, court files revealed. Two days later, the cooperating witness sent an email to Among those named in the bribery scandal were Giannulli Giannulli telling him to send a $50,000 payment to Heinel. and his wife, actress Lori Loughlin, charged with conspiracy Later, court papers said Giannulli sent a $200,000 payment to commit mail fraud and honest-services mail fraud. Giannul- to the Key Worldwide Foundation, a nonprofit organization. INSIDE: li was arrested at his home and taken into custody on March After that, Giannulli and Loughlin wrote in an email that Where fashion gets down to business SM 12, said a spokesman for the U.S. attorney’s office. they would need similar help with their younger daughter, He later appeared before a federal magistrate where he was Olivia Jade, who was later admitted to USC. ordered to appear in federal court in Boston on March 29. He William Singer of Newport Beach, Calif., was charged with was ordered released on $1 million bail. racketeering conspiracy, money-laundering conspiracy and Loughlin, who was out of town when her husband was obstruction of justice. arrested, turned herself in on Wednesday, March 13, and ap- Singer owned and operated the Edge College & Career peared before a federal magistrate. She also was released on Network, known as The Key. It is a for-profit college coun- $1 million bail. seling and preparation business. He also served as the chief 4 7 The couple are accused of paying $500,000 to get their two executive of the Key Worldwide Foundation. daughters—Isabella Rose and Olivia Jade—into the Univer- Also charged is Donna Heinel, USC senior women’s ath- State fur ban ... p. 2 sity of Southern California by being designated as recruits to letic director; John Vandemoer, the head sailing coach at Stan- Retail sales ... p. 2 the USC crew team even though the daughters did not partici- ford University; Rudolph “Rudy” Meredith, the former head UCLA Anderson Forecast ... p. 3 pate in crew, court documents said. soccer coach at Yale University; and Mark Riddell, a coun- L.A. retail-real-estate forecast ... p. 6 In emails sent back and forth in 2016 between Giannulli and selor at a private school in Bradenton, Fla. a person identified only as a “cooperating witness,” Giannulli Mossimo Giannulli once owned the Mossimo brand, which Textile Resources ... p. 9 wrote: “We just met with [our older daughter’s] college counsel- was sold for years at Target stores. In 2006, the brand was or this a.m. I’d like to maybe sit with you after your session with sold for $119 million to the Iconix Brand Group. www.apparelnews.net

01.3,8-9.cover.indd 1 3/14/19 6:21 PM NEWS Statewide Fur Ban Introduced in California Legislature A growing number of California cities Friedman, the bill’s author. state needs to send a strong message that we criminal penalties. have passed ordinances banning the sale and Friedman is a Democratic representative don’t want to support products that are pro- The proposed law also seeks to prohibit manufacture of new fur garments. Now the for the 43rd District, which includes Glen- duced cruelly,” Friedman said. the trapping of wild animals by trappers not state of California is getting involved. dale, Silver Lake and parts of the Crescenta The proposed law offers exemptions for licensed by the state as well as the sale of On March 12, a proposed bill banning the Valley. the sale of vintage fur as well as fur products exotic furs from overseas locations. sale and harvest of exotic fur products was Friedman introduced AB44 last year be- used for religious ceremonies. A ban would Fur-ban and animal-rights laws have approved by the California assembly’s Wa- cause there is a patchwork of different laws not regulate skins converted into leather or been criticized by fur-advocacy groups such ter, Parks and Wildlife committee by a 10–4 on fur in California. Berkeley, San Francisco products such as shearling from domesticat- as the Center for Consumer Freedom as vote. and West Hollywood have already imposed ed animals. The ban would apply to cloth- too sweeping. “At the end of the day, animal Assembly bill 44, known as the Califor- fur-ban laws. Los Angeles approved a fur ing, handbags, shoes, slippers, hats and key activists want to take away choice from all nia State Fur Ban, was sent to the assembly’s ban, which goes into effect in 2021. chains that contain fur. Californians and impose a vegan lifestyle judiciary committee, where no vote has been “The fur ban expresses the values of com- Those breaking the law would be sub- on them,” said Will Coggin, the consumer scheduled yet, said Assemblywoman Laura passion and sustainability in California. The ject to civil penalties, but there would be no group’s executive director.—Andrew Asch The Doneger Group Appoints Michelle Evans to New EVP of Merchandising Role Fashion- and retail-strategy outstanding leadership skills “I’m excited to collaborate with the unpar- ics and technology to help our clients thrive in firm The Doneger Group an- and significant insight into the alleled Doneger team and apply my unique ex- a dynamic retail environment,” Evans said in a nounced the appointment of changing retail landscape,” Do- perience at the intersection of fashion, analyt- statement.—Dorothy Crouch Michelle Evans to the newly cre- neger said in a statement. “I am ated role of executive vice presi- confident that our clients and dent of merchandising. Doneger team will benefit from Reporting directly to Presi- her innovative and strategic New Executive at Jerry Leigh dent Abbey Doneger, Evans will thinking.” manage core merchandising Evans graduated from Wes- Jerry Leigh, the Los Angeles apparel tinuing to shape Jerry Leigh’s legacy.” advisory services for the New leyan University with a bach- manufacturer and brand-management com- During her more than 20-year career with York–headquartered company. elor’s degree in economics and a pany, announced the promotion Jerry Leigh, Roback has led the She will spearhead the strategic Master of Business Administra- of Michelle Roback to the role of company to build multimillion- merchandising direction and Michelle Evans tion from Yale University and executive vice president of sales, dollar apparel-licensing programs business analysis across the ap- has enjoyed nearly 20 years in juniors and the David Lerner with such brands as Disney and parel and accessories categories retail and merchandising. brand. Warner Bros. and across retail in the women’s, men’s and children’s divisions. Her career began in management consult- Jerry Leigh was founded in accounts such as Target, Kohl’s, Within this role, Evans will also lead The Do- ing at Charles River Associates and she held 1962, and Roback has been a Hot Topic and Forever 21. neger Group’s Los Angeles–based merchan- positions with Tiffany & Co., Gilt and Chloe member of the Jerry Leigh team In her new role, Roback will dising team, Directives West, which offers + Isabel. Prior to joining The Doneger Group, since 1997. Roback will now manage international growth industry analysis and coverage of retail, fash- Evans led the merchandising team at conversa- manage new-brand and business while she expands her initiatives ion and consumer behavior related to the West tional-commerce startup Jetblack, where she development through forging col- into new licensed categories that Coast lifestyle. cultivated the company’s text message–based laborations with other brands and include footwear, accessories and “Michelle is a seasoned executive with personal-shopping service. retailers. fragrance. Michelle Roback “Michelle is a born leader and “It’s very exciting, and it’s visionary and has been instrumental in evolv- great to see how business has evolved. I’ve ing our philosophy to meet the challenges of been here 21 years and put in a lot of hard today’s retail landscape,” Andrew Leigh, presi- work. To have this be an example for my kids FABRIC SELECTION INC. dent of Jerry Leigh, said in a statement. “Her to work hard is exciting,” Roback said. “I’ve unstoppable drive and creativity make her the worked in juniors. David Lerner is my newest Leading textile wholesale company with outstanding ideal person to drive the convergence of our baby, and it’s exciting to share the experience sales and service expertise for over 25 years Studio and Collections businesses while con- from one retail space to another.”—D.C.

RETAIL SALES

We do Special Retailers Find Soft Sales in February Orders, Drop February sales were soft for retailers in- Also in negative territory was the mall- cluding Zumiez Inc., The Buckle Inc. and based denim store The Buckle, which report- Ship Locally and Cato Corp. ed a 6.8 percent dip in same-store sales in Mall-based action-sports store Zumiez February compared to the same period last Globally reported its same-store-sales results and year. February net sales for the chain, based its fourth-quarter earnings for the year on in Kearney, Neb., declined 7.2 percent to March 14. $59.4 million compared to $64 million from We offer Basic, Same-store sales for the retailer decreased the previous February. 3.8 percent in February while its net sales Value-priced fashion-apparel retailer Knits, Wovens, for that month were down 3.1 percent. For Cato Corp., based in Charlotte, N.C., saw the fourth quarter ending Feb. 2, net sales a 10 percent decline in its February same- Novelties, Knits declined 1.2 percent to $304.6 million from store sales with net sales sliding 12 percent $308.2 million. to $59.1 million from $67.2 million last year. in Cotton, Rayon The Lynnwood, Wash. –based company John Cato, the retailer’s chairman, presi- also provided guidance for its upcoming dent and chief executive officer, said that and Polyester, quarter. It forecast that same-store sales for February same-store sales were well below the period will range from negative 2 percent the company’s expectations. In February, Laces and Mesh to flat with net sales projected to be in the the retailer closed three stores. Its retail fleet range of $202 million to $206 million. now numbers 1,351 outposts. But Zumiez executives remain optimistic Jeff van Sinderen, a senior analyst at about the company’s future. They said it is B. Riley FBR, said winter’s unfavorable on track to open 14 new stores around the weather affected both traffic and a general globe in fiscal 2019. Rick Brooks, Zumiez’s demand for spring merchandise. chief executive officer, said its success is “Timing of tax refunds and the calendar fabricselection.com based on a nimble retail model that features shift also favor a later progression toward some fulfillment tasks at retail stores, not seasonal peak sales volumes this year,” he 213-747-6297 just warehouses. wrote in an email. “For numerous retail- [email protected] “Our localized fulfillment strategy has ers, February was a tough month. That said, provided a retail model with a singular cost business has started to improve in March, Come visit our showroom structure that we can more easily leverage to especially in warmer-weather markets, and 800 E. 14th St., Los Angeles, CA 90021 drive operating margin expansion,” he said we would expect a solidly positive April in a statement. overall.”—A.A.

2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS MARCH 15–21, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

02.news.indd 2 3/14/19 6:31 PM NEWS UCLA Anderson Forecast Sees a Downshifting in the Economy

By Deborah Belgum Executive Editor said. “I think the risk is more in 2020 than 2019.” and corporate research and development. That sector is ex- A slowing economy is based on several factors. One is pected to expand at a faster rate than the rest of the economy For the past year, the U.S. economy has been traveling at that major economies around the world are stuck in low gear. because of corporate computing moving to the cloud and 80 miles per hour as tax cuts and federal stimuli revved up China, the world’s second-largest economy, saw its slowest a number of new entrants, including Amazon, Netflix and financial growth in 2018. GDP growth in 28 years last year. Its economy in 2018 grew Hulu, in motion-picture production. But by next year the economy may be riding the brakes at at 6.6 percentage points, which seems robust by Western only about 30 mph as tax cuts disappear, the global economy standards but was down 0.2 percent from the previous year. California hits some speed bumps shrinks and the trade deficit grows. Europe saw only 1.8 percent economic growth in 2018 That was the conclusion of the first quarterly report for compared with a 3 percent GDP rise in the United States. Much has changed for California since the last UCLA 2019 by the UCLA Anderson Forecast, which sees the Shulman noted that the country’s weakness is being ampli- Anderson Forecast at the end of last year. Economists are country’s gross domestic fied by the Trump administra- expecting California’s unemployment rate to rise slightly to product growing at only Percentage Job Growth in Sector in California tion’s protectionist trade pol- 4.5 percent in 2019 from its 4.2 percent in January. But it 1.7 percent this year and icy, which has implemented will dip back down again in 2020 and 2021 to 4.3 percent. to a near-recession pace tariffs covering $250 billion One thing that has changed in California is home prices be- of 1.1 percent in 2020. on various Chinese products, ginning to decline since last June. According to the California Economists will have a and that could increase. He Association of Realtors, the median price for existing single- better idea if the economy also pointed to the uncertainty family detached homes fell at a 15 percent annual rate between is headed into a reces- surrounding Great Britain’s June and December. “Clearly home prices are falling in Califor- sion by the second half March 29 exit, known as Brex- nia, and the decline is widespread and substantial,” wrote Jerry of 2020. “It is going to be it, from the European Union. Nickelsburg, director of the UCLA Anderson Forecast. a close call,” said David But U.S. payrolls will con- While demand for housing continues to be strong in Califor- Shulman, senior econo- tinue to expand, even if it is nia, there is some reluctance for buyers who are afraid to com- mist with the UCLA An- at a much more moderate mit to buying a home with talk of a slowing economy, interest derson Forecast. When- rate than in the last couple of rates peaking and memories of the recession when housing ever the economy falls years. “Payroll employment prices plummeted. below 1 percent, you can growth will decline from its “It is pretty clear that buyer expectations have changed, and be in that zone where any monthly record of 220,000 to we don’t have any clear data on why they changed,” Nickels- outside event can push about 160,000 per month in burg said. “But there is certainly in the news media concern you into a recession.” 2019 and a negligible 20,000 about where we are in the business cycle. Buyers have clearly If there is any silver lining in this darkening cloud, it is per month in 2020, with actual declines occurring at the end pulled back.” that interest rates will probably start declining next year of that year,” Shulman noted. Consequently, housing starts will be down in California for when the Federal Reserve is expected to make three bench- The current U.S. unemployment rate of 3.8 percent will 2019 and 2020, affecting the construction industry, and headed mark interest-rate cuts of 25 basis points each as the econ- decline to 3.6 percent later this year and then gradually rise back up in 2021. omy cools. This year, the Federal Reserve is predicted to to 4.2 percent in early 2021. Despite a slowing economy in California, there will be enact two rate hikes after making four in 2018, bringing the When it comes to investment in the economy, one bright employment growth as payroll jobs are expected to grow 1.8 benchmark interest rate to a current 2.25–2.5 percent. spot is in intellectual property, which consists mostly of percent this year, 0.6 percent next year but at a very slow 0.1 “If I were a business I would go for it this year,” Shulman software development, motion picture/television production, percent in 2021.

TRADE SHOW REPORT

isn’t much repetition, and they have a high-end LA Textile Show Continued from page 3 concept. It’s concentrated in this space and the vendors are serious. As manufacturers and de- Mistakes Startup Designers Make & How to Avoid Them.” signers, that makes us happy. We don’t have to “The show is super helpful because it saves a lot of time. go up and down throughout the building.” If you were to make appointments with each of these vendors The show also saw new attendees, such as individually it would take you weeks, but you can get it done James Richards of Crown Hats. A Philadelphia in a three-day show,” she explained. “Plus, all the seminars native who has been in Los Angeles for 10 years, are amazing to get an education, to get information, to know Richards was searching for textiles to create what is happening and on the forefront of fashion.” unique designs using unconventional hat fabrics. While everyone wanted to talk business, there were sev- “I was looking for a lot of different fabric to eral amenities, such as a FabFad selfie station, lunch for do different hats in silks and velvets,” he said. online-registered attendees, an On “There are a lot of dif- the Rocks happy hour and compli- ferent materials, so I can mentary Uber rides to and from the expand the line.” Zen Textiles show. Visiting Los Angeles A Neihulé Salon x Alexander for her first show on the West Coast, “The trend is very romantic—the Chantilly lace, trims, Henry manicure station provided FeltLoom, Inc., President Lanette lots of pastels,” he said. “It varies, but the trend is sheer and vegan and cruelty-free nail wraps Freitag received a lot of interest for delicate so people have been placing orders for these types with designs created by Los Angeles’ her small-scale production services. of articles. They also love to match the allover material with Alexander Henry Fabrics, printed But she garnered the most attention the trim. We had some movement on the Summer velvet.” by cosmetics company NCLA Beau- from her needle-felting machine, Representing the Los Angeles showroom for Zen Tex- ty and applied onsite by Neihulé Sa- whose cost ranges from $7,500 to tiles—headquartered in Rockville Centre, N.Y.—sales rep- lon technicians. In a different area $23,000. resentative Shannon Bamrick was pleased to see the changes of the show, attendees were able to After selling her machine to com- at the show and felt that LA Textile is a crucial part of her watch artist KiriLeigh Jones create a panies including 3M and Eastman, business. With buyers coming in from Seattle, Canada and mandala and floral-inspired painting she was showcasing its ability to San Francisco, she saw a lot of interest in ecologically sound using raw selvage from premium- repurpose materials into new fabric, materials and technical fabric. denim brand Japan Blue Co. Ltd. as thereby increasing the options for “A big draw for us is yarn dyes plus organic, eco-friendly her canvas. sustainable-textile manufacturing in shirting and prints. We service the streetwear and contem- “This is going back with them the apparel industry. porary markets in L.A. a lot,” she said. “The weather-cloth [Japan Blue] to their facility,” said “The show has been very wel- look is a big one for us. That is where we do our technical Jones, a California native who was coming and very easy. I’ve done a fabrics—bombers, boardshorts, everything that is water re- inspired by the state’s poppy flower. Japan Blue x KiriLeigh Jones lot of shows in my life, and this one pellent, technical fabric.” “It’s their piece of art given to me to was very comfortable,” she said re- At the Texollini booth, a steady flow of traffic over the create for them. They were excited. garding her show experience after three days meant 80 percent of the people seen were new It’s something different.” traveling from Sharpsburg, Ky. “FeltLoom is beginning to clients searching for textiles that would work well for swim, Blending experiences with business seemed to be a hit take off. Our goal is that we’ll have a FeltLoom in every city men’s performance tops, active/athleisure and some demand with attendees such as Li Choi, a veteran designer who was in the United States so people can come in and repurpose for kids’ contemporary. shopping for Kiyo Inc., her downtown Los Angeles brand of their own textiles.” “We’ve had a good show. We’ve been busy with a lot of women’s contemporary clothing. While Choi was impressed For Spring/Summer 2020 at the Solstiss booth, the new and upcoming brands and designers. Overall, there was by the Japan Blue x KiriLeigh Jones live mural painting, she Caudry, France–based company’s president, François a nice, steady flow,” said Sherry Wood, the Long Beach, Ca- also noted that the importance of the show lies in the quality Damide, saw a return to dream-worthy details. Traffic at his lif., company’s director of merchandising. “When the shows of exhibitors. booth was generated by local designers and brands based were Monday through Wednesday, Monday wasn’t a good “I started on the first day and participated all three days out of Australia, the Cayman Islands, Hawaii, Pennsylvania, day. I think making the show Wednesday through Friday because it’s a very important asset to me,” Choi said. “There Texas and Florida. helped.”

APPARELNEWS.NET MARCH 15–21, 2019 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3

01.3,8-9.cover.indd 3 3/14/19 6:23 PM NEWS How Retailers Can Navigate the Changing Social-Media Scene Fashion trends come and go, and the way mands attention from many demographics, to communicate with customers has been and retailers want to reach them. turned upside down. According to a 2018 Klear Marketing “There are no seasons. We’re wearing report, the number of social-media posts white in September,” said Ilse Metchek, ob- created to promote a product doubled be- serving that a once-important fashion rule of tween 2016 and 2017. not wearing white after Labor Day has all Panelist Amelia Castellanos, vice presi- but disappeared. Metchek, president of the California Fashion Associa- tion, was the moderator for a March 11 seminar about “Reaching the New Con- sumer,” held during the Label Array show at the Califor- nia Market Center March 11–13. To bring everyone up to speed, Metchek went over a little recent fashion history. In the past decade, there’s been a top-to-bottom transforma- tion of the fashion-business model. One of the most vis- ible changes is that the once ironclad fashion calendar has Amelia Castellanos, Ilse Metchek and Aaron Polk of Bank of changed. Seasons are not as America important to designers as they once were. dent of digital media for Grass Monkey, Fashion trends play out sooner where a Los Angeles–based e-commerce consult- they once took a few years to go through a ing company, cautioned that retailers need lifecycle, often championed by trendy peo- to become well versed in the rules and laws ple who study the latest in fashion and wear regarding what images they can post on so- the trending styles. cial media. If a celebrity is photographed Also, ways of communicating with con- wearing a brand, it doesn’t mean that the sumers have changed. At the top of this new celebrity is endorsing that brand. Retailers fashion-communication world are social- should confirm what images they are able to media influencers, notably the Kardashian post when it comes to a celebrity wearing a family, who promotes products on social- specific brand and choose the right social- media channels such as Instagram and oth- media platforms for their audience. er outlets. Influencers’ cultural cachet com- —Andrew Asch Calendar March 17 March 25 April 1 ASD Market Week DG Expo Fabric & Trim Show LA Majors Market Las Vegas Convention Center Miami California Market Center Las Vegas Doubletree Inn by Hilton Miami Los Angeles Through March 20 Airport Convention Center Through April 3 Miami March 19 Through March 26 April 2 Artisan Cloth The Greatest Atlanta Apparel Showroom Innovation March 27 AmericasMart Celebration Dallas Apparel & Accessories Atlanta 1308 Factory Place, Suite #105 Market + Total Home & Gift Through April 6 Los Angeles Market April 7 March 21 Dallas Market Center Dallas Denver Apparel & Accessories Art Hearts Fashion Through March 30 Market Majestic Downtown Dallas Western Market Denver Merchandise Mart Los Angeles Dallas Market Center Denver Through March 24 Dallas Through April 9 March 22 Through March 30 Kidsworld April 7 LA Fashion Week Dallas Market Center NW Trend Show Petersen Automotive Museum Dallas Pier 91, Smith Cove Terminal Los Angeles Through March 30 Seattle Through March 25 Through April 9 March 23 March 31 Malibu Fashion Weekend Gift & Home Spring Market Rosenthal Wine Bar & Patio LA Mart There’s more Los Angeles on ApparelNews.net. Malibu, Calif. Through April 2 Through March 24 For calendar details and contact information, visit ApparelNews. net/events.

Submissions to the calendar should be faxed to the Calendar Editor at (213) 623-5707. Please include the event’s name, date, time, location, admission price and contact information. The deadline for calendar submissions is the Tuesday prior to Friday publication. Inclusion in the calendar is subject to available space and the judgment of the editorial staff.

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4 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS MARCH 15–21, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

04.cal.news.indd 4 3/14/19 6:34 PM Save the Date!

May 9, 2019 @JW Marriott, Downtown LA

Join us for the 3rd Annual Marcum Retail Symposium! This yearʼs event will once again feature in-depth speakers and panels providing industry perspectives to help retailers and manufacturers adapt to the changing landscape and a new generation of technology and consumers.

www.marcumevents.com/retail-symposium

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marcum.indd 1 2/21/19 5:07 PM REAL ESTATE L.A. Drops in Retail-Real-Estate Investment Index

By Andrew Asch Retail Editor Google is one of a number of tech com- panies creating offices to be closer to where Los Angeles County commands global job talent lives. In 2018, Google made South- attention for its entertainment glitz, health- ern California headlines for opening 525,000 conscious lifestyles and bustling malls, but square feet of offices in the former Spruce its ranking for retail-real-estate investment Goose hangar in Los Angeles’ Playa Vista dropped in the recently released 2019 fore- region. Amazon also has made news for cast from influential commercial-real-estate seeking cities for a second headquarters. Like brokerage Marcus & Millichap. Google, it is bringing its offices to where the L.A. County dropped eight notches from job talent lives rather than bringing them to the 18th most-favorable place to invest in re- company headquarters, Chang said. tail real estate, according to the company’s It’s not just malls that are being changed 2019 National Retail Index rankings, which to suit the needs of tech giants and retailers. have been released since 1999. Retailers are taking former light-industrial fa- The top two spots were held by the Se- cilities and transforming them into warehous- attle-Tacoma area and San Francisco out of es and fulfillment centers to serve the last leg the 46 metropolitan regions ranked by the of omni-channel retail, said Larry Kosmont, annual forecast. chief executive officer of the real-estate and Still, John Chang, a senior vice president advisory firm Kosmont Companies. of research services for Marcus & Millichap, based in Calaba- sas, Calif., said that Los Ange- les continues to be a good place for retail-real-estate investment. “Los Angeles is performing very well. It has a lot of mo- mentum and strength going for it,” Chang said. “But the pace of growth is slowing down in Los Angeles.” L.A. has one of the slowest rates of job growth among the largest U.S. metropolitan areas, according to data released in 2018 by the U.S. Bureau of La- bor Statistics. Los Angeles’ job growth increased by 1.1 percent during the one-year period be- tween July 2017 and July 2018, according to data compiled by Bloomberg. A slowdown in job growth in Los Angeles County happened at the same time as an increase in construction and higher va- cancy rates for commercial properties. Higher-ranked ar- eas enjoyed greater job growth, which spurred greater demand for retail and services. The mere location of a re- gion could help boost its rank- ing. Oakland, Calif.’s ranking increased six places to num- ber 15 in the Marcus & Milli- chap study. Located near to the Silicon Valley hot spots of San Francisco and San Jose, people are looking for relatively cheap rents in Oakland. Property de- velopment has slowed in the city, and more businesses are leasing commercial space, so the study deemed Oakland as an increasingly attractive place to invest. Chang also talked about Los Angeles County’s changing retail-real-estate scene. Over the past few years, malls that previously de- “The digital generation wants goods im- voted most of their space to fashion retailers mediately. They can see something, order it have been experimenting with their tenant and receive it quickly,” he said. The move mix. Mall managers are increasingly look- to omni-channel retail needs more fulfill- ing for previously nontraditional tenants ment centers located close to major popula- such as gyms and medical offices to fill up tion centers. This real-estate trend, Kosmont spaces. said, is called “re-industrial.” One of the biggest Los Angeles retail- Chang and Kosmont forecast there will real-estate stories in 2018 was the transfor- be more changes down the road for malls mation of Macerich’s Westside Pavilion and retail streets. Chang said that in Los mall into office space. About 90 percent of Angeles County, there would be increased the mall was leased by tech giant Google. growth in boutique shopping, reflecting “This is a hallmark event,” Chang said. new trends in consumers’ evolving shop- “You have a shopping mall that was not do- ping habits. “There’s a lot more boutique ing great. It had a transformation and solved and smaller-footprint retailers. Their styles a problem for Google.” remain fresh and innovative,” Chang said.

6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS MARCH 15–21, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

06.marcus.indd 6 3/14/19 6:35 PM SUSTAINABILITY Sustainable Fashion Forum Provides a Tech Focus for Green Apparel Manufacturing

By Dorothy Crouch Associate Editor to recycle into new fibers. It is Rowe’s hope that through just once—and that is the problem with PET [polyethylene her donation centers she can also cultivate an interest in the terephthalate] textiles at the moment,” Montoya explained. Working toward a cleaner and greener apparel industry artistry of clothing design by building upon the younger gen- “If he is saying it can be infinitely renewed and you just have was the mission of the Sustainable Fashion Forum, held eration’s interest in do-it-yourself design. to bring it back so they can regenerate, then it is the perfect at the California Market Center on March 7 during the “The insurmountable responsibility of saving the planet solution.” March 6–8 run of the LA Textile show. is really crazy for an individual person to carry on his or While much of the focus on a more ecologically sound The theme for the collaboration between LA Textile and her shoulders,” she said. “Starting in any small way—even apparel industry has fallen on environmentally friendly ma- New York’s Fashiondex was “Digital & Tech-Based Solu- changing your packaging—you’re doing something and it’s terials sourcing, there also exists a need for gathering and tions.” much better than doing nothing.” sharing information more efficiently. As the fashion industry’s For fashion merchandiser During “How AI Can Help With Sustainability and Pre- reliance on new innovations Katherine Montoya, a vaca- dicting Customer Preferences,” Google Cloud’s SoCal lead- grows and disruption by new tion to Los Angeles turned er Trish Scull emphasized the importance of organizing data technology increases, these into a learning opportunity when working toward a more sustainable industry. tools are helping the apparel for building an affordable, “Everything from data-centric services to artificial intel- business move toward a more sustainable line. Currently ligence and machine learning is going to help drive sustain- sustainable future. working for a footwear brand ability,” she said. “Ultimately, artificial intelligence is only “We are currently 7.6 bil- in New York City, Montoya is as good as the underlying infrastructure, applications and— lion people on the planet and in the process of building her most importantly—that data, which you present to the sci- we will be 8.5 billion soon. Green Label Collection, a ence.” We are one of the most pol- fashion-forward—yet afford- As she discussed at “Technology for Collaboration and lutive industries. Ranked able—sustainable womens- Connection,” Addlane founder Roxy Starr explained that third right below oil and food wear brand. the efficiency the fashion industry promotes in the name is fashion,” said Fashiondex “To impact the people, you of sustainability also applies to human workers who utilize founder Andrea Kennedy. need to make it accessible,” technological tools. “Our vision is a fully sustain- she said. “The more accessi- “That is why we develop technology, so we can all be able future in fashion where ble it is, the more people will more efficient, more productive, transparent and sustain-

we make no negative impact CALIFORNIA MARKET CENTER be drawn to it regardless of able,” she said. “They are buzzwords that we hear, but ‘sus- environmentally or socially.” Trish Scull (left) and Kevin Nelson whether they care about sus- tainable’ also applies to ourselves and making sure we can For Solána Rowe, the re- tainability or not. That is why efficiently get things done and communicate with our part- cording artist known by her stage name SZA, the forum I like coming to these things, to see if there is new informa- ners wherever we may be.” provided an opportunity to meet apparel-industry experts tion, new technology that could possibly bring price points After illustrating how concepts in machine learning can as she plans to build an initiative promoting sustainable-ap- down in manufacturing.” be applied to the apparel industry, Kevin Nelson, an archi- parel manufacturing and wellness. The singer has hinted at With an interest in textiles created from natural sources, tect advocate for Google Cloud, encouraged attendees to use launching a clothing line named Ctrl Fishing Co. She said such as mycelium from mushrooms, pineapple-leaf and or- innovative technological tools and become immersed in the she would like to channel her concerns regarding environ- ange fibers, Montoya hopes to use biodegradable or reusable process to understand how they can build a better industry. mental conservation into a larger mission such as teaching materials in her collection. While listening to the “Textiles, “Just using technology tools isn’t enough,” he explained. children to meditate and de-escalate their own anxieties. Technology and Sustainability” panel, Montoya found the “You really have to embrace a new way of doing business. Rowe was interested in finding sourcing partners to help solutions discussed by Shay Sethi of the Los Angeles com- It’s about transparency. It’s about embracing the change and manufacture clothing by adopting practices promoting a cir- pany Moral Fiber to be the most groundbreaking. being excited about it—finding ways to do things more ef- cular economy, such as reusing unwanted, donated clothing “He claims that his polyester is infinitely renewable—not ficiently and better.”

MARCH 22–25 PETERSEN AUTOMOTIVE MUSEUM www.LAFW.net

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07.sustainable.indd 7 3/14/19 6:36 PM Apparel News Group WEB PRODUCTION FINANCE TRADE SHOW REPORT MORGAN WESSLER DAVID MARTINEZ CREATIVE MARKETING DIRECTOR CREDIT MANAGER LOUISE DAMBERG RITA O’CONNOR DIRECTOR OF SALES AND MARKETING LA Market Continued from page 1 retail boutique. “Formalwear, accessories, 741945-2019 TERRY MARTINEZ PUBLISHED BY dresses for mothers-of-the-bride,” she said, Seventy-four years of news, SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE TLM PUBLISHING INC. fashion and information AMY VALENCIA APPAREL NEWS GROUP One buyer who took advantage of the as she explained her focus on this market. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Publishers of: comfortable space was Jennifer Manion, “I want unique and different, not something CEO/PUBLISHER LYNNE KASCH California Apparel News TERRY MARTINEZ Waterwear who owns the 42 Saint store in Phoenix that could be found in every store.” BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Decorated MOLLY RHODES with her husband, Mark, where they sell She was excited about the offerings at the EXECUTIVE EDITOR SALES ASSISTANT/RECEPTIONIST EXECUTIVE OFFICE slightly edgy men’s and women’s clothing Alberto Makali, Frank Lyman, Elvi, Do- DEBORAH BELGUM ASHLEY KOHUT California Market Center for customers ages 20 to 70. As a buyer who ris Johnson and Betty Bottom showrooms. RETAIL EDITOR ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANTS 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 ANDREW ASCH CHRIS MARTIN Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 attends market twice a year during March She emphasized that she was searching for RACHEL MARTINEZ (213) 627-3737 ASSOCIATE EDITOR Fax (213) 623-5707 and October, Manion was excited about quality pieces at reasonable prices. SALES ASSISTANT DOROTHY CROUCH Classified Advertising Fax PENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY visiting the T&A Showroom to refresh her At the Soulstar showroom, Patric Liu CONTRIBUTORS (213) 623-1515 ALYSON BENDER CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE www.apparelnews.net inventory. reported a slower pace but attributed it to VOLKER CORELL JEFFERY YOUNGER [email protected] After emigrating from Romania 24 years greater access to online shopping. He men- JOHN ECKMIER PROFESSIONAL SERVICES JOHN McCURRY & RESOURCE SECTION ago, Valerica Moldouan, who owns Vali’s tioned that the buyers who did visit his space ESTEVAN RAMOS JUNE ESPINO PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. TIM REGAS Studio in Rocklin, Calif., was expanding her were interested in new streetwear trends. N. JAYNE SEWARD PRODUCTION MANAGER HOPE WINSBOROUGH KENDALL IN store from a custom-apparel business into a “The people who came in were interested NATALIE ZFAT EDITORIAL DESIGNER JOHN FREEMAN FISH

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Josephine Tchang of Purplemaroon and Yumi Rae de Mimo store owners Paulette Ledyard and It takes dollars to make a difference Aoyama of Evolg Mimo Boghossian in front of Ivko fashions

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➥ LA Market page 9

8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS MARCH 15–21, 2019 APPARELNEWS.NET

01.3,8-9.cover.indd 8 3/14/19 6:24 PM TRADE SHOW REPORT

LA Market Continued from page 8 brand. “There were some waves of good traf- usual weather, California buyers are uncer- Showroom, estimated traffic was even with fic, and there were some periods where there tain about what people will be wearing the last year’s March show. She saw buyers from in track suits, plaids, straps and vertical seemed to be no one around.” rest of the year. Los Angeles retailer Madison as well as Pit- stripes,” he said. Management at The New Mart hadn’t ken County Dry Goods in Aspen, Colo., Sales representative Liz Lugo at the Anu done a final count of buyers visiting the mar- Steady market at the Cooper Design and Tootsies in Houston. by Natural showroom reported a good show. ket by the end of the show, but building man- Space Other Cooper showrooms said they saw She received orders for Immediates, Spring ager Ethan Eller forecasted that it surpassed a slower pace of traffic. “It was a little qui- and Summer in addition to Fall. Known for last year, when 536 retailers registered for Retail traffic was described as steady to eter than usual for a March market,” Israel the brand’s colorful apparel, ranging from the show. light at the Cooper Design Space and the Ramirez of the Siblings Showroom said. wholesale prices of $6 to $79, buyers were At the Designers and Agents show, on Brand Assembly trade show. “But we still see a good amount of people interested in jackets, silk shirts, each market. Boutiques have had embroidered scarves, and tops a tough time selling Spring cloth- and skirts. ing when it is 40-degree weath- “The business is still strong. er,” he said. You have to keep doing what At the Brand Assembly show, you do best. You have to follow there were 113 booths exhibiting, trends somewhat, but you have to up from 90 last March, said Adam keep your own DNA,” she said. Eisenhut, Brand Assembly’s vice “The market wasn’t bad, and I president of trade shows and com- opened new accounts.” munity. Retailers shopping Brand At the concurrent Label Ar- Assembly included ShopBop, ray show in the CMC, some ex- Revolve and Forward. hibitors reported slow traffic, but Diane Levin of the Diane buyers were placing orders. At Levin Showroom was exhibit- the Pol Clothing booth, which ing at the show and said it had sells women’s boho fashions, Brand Assembly Scene Marcia Moran steady traffic. “We saw the same sales representative Ashley Kang amount of people,” Levin said. reported a lot of new buyers “You always end up opening for the Vernon, Calif., business, new stores and making your whose wholesale prices range numbers.” from $13 to $40. “We are known for our qual- Going at the Gerry Building ity. They came to look and feel the products in person. That is At the Impulse Moda show- why we go to all the markets,” room, owner Lori Marchand said she said. “Having LA Market— she was surprised by the number it’s important.” of people who attended the show. “I had people I’ve not seen in Consistent sales at The New quite some time and then new Mart people came in too,” she said. “I think it was better than last year.” Daniel Bohbot, chief execu- Pol Clothing booth at Label Array The owners of Rue de Mimo, tive officer of Hale Bob, esti- a longstanding boutique in South mated that his traffic enjoyed a big spike, the third floor of the building, 70 vendors Michael Moshi, chief executive officer Pasadena, Calif., have stayed in business for with 40 percent more traffic than last year. exhibited Fall 2019 styles. for the Lauren Moshi brand, exhibited new more than 15 years by stocking unique mer- He credited the relatively warmer weather But many buyers were focused on plac- leather and Sherpa jackets. He said that retail chandise that keeps their customers coming in Los Angeles for the uptick. “Weather is ing orders for Immediates. Mattie Ilel of the traffic seemed even with other LA Markets. in. That is why they were looking at the Ivko good. There is excitement at stores. There JP and Mattie brand estimated that 40 per- “It was busy,” he said. “We had new ac- label, a colorful ethnic brand made in Serbia, are more store events,” he said. cent of her show orders were for Immediates counts. We saw accounts that we missed at which was being displayed at an auxiliary Matt Boelk, sales manager for Dear John because many retailers were navigating an the New York shows.” showroom set up by Miriana Ojeda across Denim, said show traffic was okay for the uncertain market. Because of the recent un- Jasmine Tsai, sales manager of the Hatch from her permanent showroom. Textile Resources Artisan Cloth Inc. Cinergy Textiles Inc. 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