of the milling industry. milling the of

Water of Leith, once the centre centre the once Leith, of Water Georgian tower and steeple. steeple. and tower Georgian

location on the banks of the the of banks the on location designed in 1895 but incorporating a a incorporating but 1895 in designed

8. Dean Village Dean 8. a picturesque picturesque a known as ‘the Kirk below the Castle’, Castle’, the below Kirk ‘the as known

16. St Cuthbert’s Church Cuthbert’s St 16. often often

home to fantastic sculpture parks. sculpture fantastic to home

modern and contemporary art and and art contemporary and modern West End development. development. End West

Registered in Scotland No. 195077. Scottish Charity No. SC037183 No. Charity Scottish 195077. No. Scotland in Registered

Modern Art Modern a must-see venue for for venue must-see a 1814 as the principal street of the the of street principal the as 1814

Edinburgh World Heritage Trust is a charitable company limited by guarantee. guarantee. by limited company charitable a is Trust Heritage World Edinburgh

7. Scottish National Gallery of of Gallery National Scottish 7. 15. Melville Street Melville 15. designed in in designed

www.westendbid.com www.ewht.org.uk at Site Eoghan Bridge. Bridge. Eoghan in the ‘Perpendicular Gothic’ style. style. Gothic’ ‘Perpendicular the in

Edinburgh’s World Heritage Heritage World Edinburgh’s about the West End at at End West the about bronze sculpture by the artist artist the by sculpture bronze 1816-18 and designed by William Burn Burn William by designed and 1816-18

Discover more about about more Discover Find out more more out Find 6. Horse & Rider Rider & Horse 6. 14. St Johns Church Johns St 14. large stylised stylised large built between between built

part of Edinburgh’s skyline. Edinburgh’s of part of Georgian townhouses built in 1819. 1819. in built townhouses Georgian of

13. Rutland Square Rutland 13. gothic spires form a distinctive distinctive a form spires gothic tranquil square square tranquil

www.designbysource.com

Sir George Gilbert Scott, its three three its Scott, Gilbert George Sir

four arches each 96 feet in span. span. in feet 96 each arches four

With thanks to the City of Edinburgh Council for their kind support kind their for Council Edinburgh of City the to thanks With

built 1873 – 9 and designed by by designed and 9 – 1873 built

106 feet above the valley below, with with below, valley the above feet 106

5. St Mary’s Episcopal Cathedral Cathedral Episcopal Mary’s St 5.

Telford and opened in 1833. It soars soars It 1833. in opened and Telford

and find out about the West Enders of the past. past. the of Enders West the about out find and

Edinburgh skyline. Edinburgh of engineering, designed by Thomas Thomas by designed engineering, of

Use this trail to explore its historic streets streets historic its explore to trail this Use

12. Dean Bridge Dean 12. its 56m tall spire is a landmark on the the on landmark a is spire tall 56m its an impressive piece piece impressive an

styled church built between 1866-9, 1866-9, between built church styled

Tudor style. style. Tudor

with a fascinating history stretching back to the Georgian period. period. Georgian the to back stretching history fascinating a with 4. St George’s West West George’s St 4. a grand baroque baroque grand a

as a studio house for an artist in a a in artist an for house studio a as

The West End is a key part of Edinburgh’s World Heritage Site, Site, Heritage World Edinburgh’s of part key a is End West The

urban planning. planning. urban building dating from 1891, designed designed 1891, from dating building

11. Drumsheugh Toll Drumsheugh 11. and regarded as a masterpiece of of masterpiece a as regarded and a quirky quirky a

the architect Robert Adam in 1791 1791 in Adam Robert architect the

façade with Moorish detailing. Moorish with façade

3. Charlotte Square Charlotte 3. designed by by designed

1882, and designed with an interesting interesting an with designed and 1882,

10. Drumsheugh Baths Drumsheugh 10. Robert Dundas 2nd Viscount Melville. Viscount 2nd Dundas Robert built in in built

commemorates the British statesman statesman British the commemorates

station clock in Peacock Alley. Alley. Peacock in clock station

2. The Melville Monument Melville The 2.

station still survive inside, such as the the as such inside, survive still station

Victorian Prime Minister. Prime Victorian Railway. Many features from the old old the from features Many Railway.

commemorates the famous famous the commemorates as a luxury hotel for the Caledonian Caledonian the for hotel luxury a as

1. The Gladstone Memorial Memorial Gladstone The 1. 9. Caledonian Hotel Caledonian 9. opened in 1903 1903 in opened

Please see trail map overleaf for locations. locations. for overleaf map trail see Please

the West End West the Explore

West End Heritage Edinburgh’s Meet the The broad streets and crescents of street is regularly used as a location the West End present a very distinct for period films. Look out for the West End Today pattern, designed in 1813 by James cast iron balconies under the shop WEST ENDERS Gillespie Graham. Building was slow windows, a rare surviving feature In recent years the West End has been is the charming heart of the West and involved many different architects, designed to allow customers to get a transformed by the development of End – original, purpose built artisan but each followed the intentions of closer look at the goods. the Exchange area, now home to the shops, many of which are still home to Gillespie Graham’s master plan. The International Conference Centre and bespoke designers such as Liam Ross result is a variety in character from The three gothic spires of St Mary’s the headquarters for the financial Jewellery and Liggy’s Cakes. In the sumptuous Victorian terraces to Episcopal Cathedral form an important services industry in Scotland – evening the area is alive with fantastic intimate Georgian shopping streets. part of Edinburgh’s skyline. The including Standard Life, Scottish bars such as Indigo Yard and Sygn; cathedral was built 1873–9 and Widows, and the Clydesdale Bank. The restaurants such as the Edinburgh William Street is a particularly designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott, network of surrounding streets houses Larder Bistro and A Room In The well preserved street of Georgian a prolific architect also responsible the heart of the Edinburgh professional West End. shopfronts. Built in 1825 to provide for St Pancras Station and the Albert world. And from the leafy quiet of cheaper housing and shops, where Memorial. Inside are many important Charlotte Square to the bustling the wealthier New Town residents pieces of Scottish art, such as the interchange at Haymarket, lawyers, could buy a wide variety of groceries. Rood Cross by Sir Robert Lorimer and accountants, architects and surveyors Because of its historic character the stained glass by Sir Eduardo Paolozzi. ply their trade in fine Georgian townhouses, as they have done in the West End since the 1800’s.

There is a strong independent spirit in the West End. In the area around Queensferry Street and Stafford Street there is a unique mix of independent The West End is Edinburgh in miniature brands and high street names. – Georgian splendour next to modern High Street brands like Starbucks corporate architecture; reflecting and Sainsbury sit alongside well the 21st century attitude of this established Edinburgh retailers such fantastic modern, medieval, Georgian as Paper Tiger, Studio One, Frontiers city. Businesses in the area are now and Goodwin’s Antiques. A thriving developing a Business Improvement Explore the historic streets of Edinburgh’s service sector offers hairdressing by District to assist in the development West End and discover the West Enders of the past Charlie Miller, beauty treatments By of Edinburgh’s West End as a place to Claire, and spectacles by Birrell & live, work and succeed for the next two Rainford. Picturesque William Street hundred years. a Elsie Inglis – 8 Walker Street b William Fielding – 12 Stafford Street c John Byers & Mary Barclay – Easter Coates House d Sandy James – Caledonian Hotel Between 1898 and The distinctive entrance to 12 Stafford Street dates from the This house is a remarkable survival, built in 1615 for Sandy James was the Caledonian Hotel’s head 1914 No.8 Walker 1890s when it was Turkish Baths, owned and managed by John Byers and his wife Mary Barclay, and their initials doorman for over 30 years, taking up his post shortly Street was the William Fielding, fresh from the success of running a similar can still be seen above one of the upper windows. after the hotel opened in 1903. medical practice business in New York. Sandy became almost an institution is his own right, of Elsie Inglis, a Byers was an important figure in Edinburgh at the with his long career at the hotel only disturbed by his pioneer for women The business of running the baths seemed to involve all time, holding many posts in the burgh council. For six service in the army during the First World War. He in medicine and a the family, with his wife and many of his children acting as years he was city treasurer and Dean of Guild, and for prided himself on knowing all the railway timetables by leading suffragette. attendants. The baths opened from 6.00 am to 9.00 pm two years he led the council as Provost. for men, with Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings heart, and knew many of the celebrities who came to Byers’ house is now probably the oldest building in Elsie started practice here with exclusively for women. Unusually for the time, ladies wishing stay at the hotel. another woman Dr. Jessie Macgregor, the New Town. The house was repaired in the 1800s to bathe after 9pm could make special arrangements with Mrs Fielding. It was during the Abdication Crisis of 1937 that and gained a reputation for great using fragments of buildings from the Old Town, including the double window in the his fame really spread far and wide. An American kindness. She often waived her fees The Stafford Street baths advertised a special Turkish Wash for men. west side which is reputed to be from the French Ambassadors Chapel. It is not clear what this involved, but it was said that: journalist asked Sandy what the ordinary British and paid for patients to recuperate at In 1887 the cathedral adopted the building as the choir school, and it still has that ‘Many avail themselves of this luxurious form of person felt about King Edward VIII’s relationship the sea-side. use today. morning ablution, and testify to its with Wallis Simpson. Elsie worked tirelessly through her invigorating and refreshing effect.’ His innocent answer was printed in New York and career, setting up Edinburgh’s first Washington, along with the tip that anyone who maternity hospital and the Scottish wanted a summary of British public opinion should Women’s Hospital helping Allied ask the doorman of the Caledonian Hotel, Edinburgh. soldiers during the First World War. 12

7 7

8 e Florence B Jack – j Samuel J Peploe - 39 Manor Place Atholl Crescent The artist Samuel J Peploe was The Edinburgh born at 39 Manor Place in 1871, 11 College of and Edinburgh’s West End was 10 Domestic always a central part in his Economy flourishing career. opened at Peploe became famous for his Atholl Crescent still life paintings, a leading in 1891, and light in the group known as the Florence B Jack Scottish Colourists inspired by was perhaps its the new post-impressionism greatest teacher. style of Matisse and Van Gogh. The college Peploe studied art in Edinburgh and Paris, was prestigious returning to his native city around 1897. He set up 3 and intended to a studio in the Albert Institute in Shandwick Place, teach middle- where a nearby flower seller called Jeanie Blyth class students essential skills for running became one of his first models. their own household. Florence was the 15 teacher of cookery, laundry work, and In 1912 Peploe returned from Paris with new g housekeeping, and went on to be Principal work, which proved to be unpopular with his old of the Good Housekeeping Institute, art dealer. Not to be put off, he organised his own publishing a wide range of cookery books. exhibition at the New Gallery in Shandwick Place. i 2 In 1911 she published The Woman’s Book, Today his work is highly respected and valued, j including everything from cooking and and Peploe is regarded as one of the most c household management, to nursing, travel important Scottish painters. f and beekeeping. 5 A chapter is devoted to education and b d 4 9 careers, listing all the universities that 14 offered degrees for women and the leading a suffragette organisations. 16 For Florence: “Women, like men, have a 1 desire… to take part in the affairs of the i Dr Joseph Bell - 2 Melville Crescent world…and the restraint and force of mere It was whilst studying 13 tradition, prejudice, or caste, have become medicine at the University of h intolerable to them.” Edinburgh that Arthur Conan e Doyle met Professor Joseph Bell - the inspiration for the author’s famous character 6 Sherlock Holmes. f The Lough family - 15 William Street The Lough family’s chimney sweeping business Bell was an eminent was a presence at 15 William Street for almost surgeon at the Edinburgh 100 years. Royal Infirmary and lecturer at the Medical School next door. Amongst h Mary Dunlop - Rutland Square g Janet Story - The 1841 census shows John Lough, his wife and his many achievements he founded a nursing 37 Melville Street two young sons William and Thomas, living at 15 Throughout the 1940s, 50s and 60s Mary Dunlop was a institute and acted as surgeon to Queen Victoria William Street along with two employees. Their well-known West End character, along with her white pony The childhood memoirs of Janet Story give a glimpse into West when she was in Scotland. front room acted as a shop, and an elder son ‘Smoky’ pulling her barrel organ on a small cart. End high-society in the 1830s, when Melville Street was new. also called John lived just next door. Chimney However it was his ability to observe minute She brought music to the doorstep of many residents in She describes in detail a lavish dinner party held at her family sweeping was often a family business, but the details about his patients that caught the the West End streets, and was especially loved by local home of 37 Melville Street. Dinners usually started with two soup Lough’s were to suffer a crisis only a few years imagination of Doyle. For a while he acted children who nicknamed her ‘Monkey Mary’. and fish dishes, followed by four starters often including a curry, later. as Bell’s assistant and became fascinated a favourite of her father who had served in India. at the way the Professor could deduce a In 1958 a major overhaul of the barrel organ was In 1844 William and Thomas were found guilty of person’s occupation and origins from closely needed, and a group of West Enders clubbed together There would be two joints of meat, with extra dishes of ducks, stealing a round of Edam cheese, and although analysing their appearance. Years later, when to fund its repair. a ham or beefsteak pie. A typical dessert was a spun sugar and only 15 years old William was sentenced to be transported to Australia. Doyle had become a successful author, he pastry case filled with fruit, along with a pudding, a vanilla and When Mary died in 1966 Smokey went into retirement in raspberry cream and a pale wine jelly. Their elder brother John carried on the family business in William Street wrote to Bell: “It is most certainly to you that an SSPCA centre in Balerno. Mary’s barrel organ can still until the 1890s, eventually passing on the tricks of the trade to his son. I owe Sherlock Holmes.” be seen today in the Museum of Childhood. Such a dinner would have been the top of the scale, but shows how grand life could be for some West Enders. Illustrations: Owain Kirby