LIZ CLAIBORNE GETS JUICY/2 CASUAL IN DEPTH/9-19 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheWEDNESDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • March 19, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 56 $2.00 Sportswear Day for Night IRVINE, Calif. — Modern style is all about transcending categories, blurring the distinctions between business and casual, of-the-moment and timeless and especially, day and night. St. John’s freshly minted mini comes with a layer of sparkling Austrian crystals and, when topped with a sporty crystal-detailed wool polo, it can slip easily from the boardwalk to the dance floor. For more on Marie Gray’s fall St. John collection, see page 6.

Hair Care’s New No. 1: P&G Leaps to Top Rank With Plan to Buy Wella By Andrea M.G. Nagel and Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — It’s now a two-horse race in the beauty world. With a proposed $6.9 billion megadeal for Wella, Procter & Gamble is poised to pass longtime rival L’Oréal, to become the biggest player in the hair care category, an achievement that no doubt cuts deeply into the French beauty company’s pride. Cincinnati-based P&G Tuesday announced it had inked a deal to take control of German firm Wella AG for a deal including $3.4 billion in cash. The purchase, which had been expected for See P&G, Page 7 PHOTO BY PHOTO JOE BY CHAVEZ 2 WWDWEDNESDAY Claiborne Adds Juicy Label Sportswear By Kristin Larson in recent years has proven suc- GENERAL and Julee Greenberg cessful. In the fourth quarter of The ladies of St. John, who are devoted to everything timeless, hadn’t seen 2002, Liz Claiborne’s income rose so much leg since the early Nineties. Here’s a look at the fall collection. NEW YORK — Juicy Couture, the 39.7 percent to $58 million. Sales 6 hot contemporary brand known in the quarter jumped 12.1 per- Procter & Gamble’s proposed $6.9 billion acquisition of Wella brought P&G for making velour tracksuits chic cent to $993.9 million, making it 1 bragging rights as the world’s largest hair care firm, finally passing L’Oréal. for everyone from soccer moms the company’s 28th consecutive Liz Claiborne has agreed to purchase all of the stock of Travis Jeans Inc., to celebrities, has become the quarter of sales growth. For the

WEDNESDAY, MARCH 19, 2003 WEDNESDAY, which owns the assets of Juicy Couture, the hot contemporary brand.

, latest brand to join the growing year, income was up 4 percent to 2

D Liz Claiborne Inc. empire. $192.1 million, while sales rose Casual In Depth: The Great Escape, a special report on the casual market, W Liz Claiborne said Tuesday 11.1 percent to $3.45 billion. appears on pages 9-19. W 9 that it has agreed to purchase Paul Charron, chairman and 100 percent of the stock of Travis chief executive officer of Liz Jeans Inc., which owns the as- Claiborne, said in a statement: SUZY sets of Juicy Couture. Based in “Juicy Couture is one of the Oscar flash will be a tad more subdued than usual, due to the possibility of Arleta, Calif., the six-year-old strongest trending brands in the war…Richard Gere’s next gig…The Met’s big dance-a-thon. Juicy designs, markets and upscale contemporary and denim 4 wholesales basics for women, zones. With its appeal to a more Obituary ...... 23 men and children and had sales fashion-conscious and affluent Classified Advertisements ...... 23-27 of about $47 million in 2002. consumer, Juicy Couture adds an- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is The acquisition marks the 31st other dimension to our portfolio, [email protected], using the individual's name. brand in the Liz Claiborne portfo- further broadening our ability to SUBSCRIPTION RATES lio — and the first since purchas- Jennifer Lopez may have her own line offer apparel and accessories U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. ing Ellen Tracy in September for across a wide range of consumer All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. of track suits, but she still wears Juicy. Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information: (800) 289-0273; $180 million. The company would lifestyles and tastes.” outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; group subscription information (856) 786-0963. not disclose the Juicy purchase deal for Juicy Couture, paying The acquisition will also help Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional price, but said it was in line with roughly 80 percent of the compa- increase the company’s channel issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. previous acquisition buys. ny’s sales — or $38 to $40 million. and geographic diversification a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., Analysts estimated that Liz The aggressive acquisition through Juicy’s select specialty a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. Claiborne probably got a good strategy Claiborne has employed Continued on page 8 No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 Printed in the U.S.A. All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of McCartney WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. Charming Shoppes For Web site access, log on to www.WWD.com Signs Lease Reports Profit in 4th In Brief By Jennifer Weitzman Catherine’s Plus Sizes business- For 3rd Unit es into a single facility in Mary- ● TAUBMAN’S NO TO SIMON: Taubman Centers Inc. late Tues- NEW YORK — Charming Shoppes land, resulting in about 50 job By Kristin Young day told Simon Property Group and Westfield America what it announced Tuesday that restruc- losses, and close its Hollywood, thought about their intention to propose four nominees for elec- turing in 2002 helped it post a Fla.-based credit operation, LOS ANGELES — Oscar night tion to Taubman’s board: It is “solely to advance their own agen- fourth-quarter profit and that a eliminating 75 positions. isn’t the only thing on Stella da.” Taubman further said in a statement, “Our shareholders are new round of cost-cutting initia- The upcoming reconfigura- McCartney’s mind this week. entitled to a board that is fully committed to acting in their best tives in 2003, including the elimi- tion of CS will include the clo- A spokeswoman for the de- interests — and not for the purpose of benefiting Simon and nation of about 285 jobs, should sure of the nine Monsoon and signer, who is in town for Acade- Westfield.” As reported, Taubman has been locked in a takeover ultimately result in annualized Accessorize stores it has operat- my Awards festivities, con- battle attempt by Simon and Westfield America. Earlier Tuesday, savings of $45 million. ed in the U.S. under a joint ven- firmed she has signed a lease Simon sent a letter to Taubman’s shareholders setting forth its The Bensalem, Pa.-based ture with Monsoon PLC of the for her third store, an ivy-cov- proposal, which said, in part, “The dismissive nature of your plus-sized specialty retailer — U.K. since Oct. 2000. ered cottage at 8823 Beverly elected representatives’ rejection makes it abundantly clear that which operates 2,248 stores CS said the plan should boost Boulevard in West Hollywood, the TCO board is continuing to listen only to management and under the Lane Bryant, Fashion annual pretax earnings by about which will open this fall. The turning a deaf ear to the public shareholders.” Bug and Catherine’s Plus Sizes $45 million, with about $18 mil- freestanding building is a 3,000- chains — also lowered its earn- lion in savings expected this fis- square-foot, two-level space ● BROTHER TO BROTHER: Maurice Marciano, co-chairman ings forecast for the first quarter cal year. with a back parking lot that’s and co-chief executive of Guess Inc., bought 1 million shares of based on below-plan sales in CS, which said in January it paved in bricks and surrounded Guess stock for $4 a share last week, boosting his stake in the February. It said it is now antici- was expecting to report a fourth- by dense landscaping. firm to 39.2 percent, based on 43.5 million shares outstanding as pating earnings per share to land quarter loss, instead reported a “The charm and the appeal of the end of last year. The seller was his brother Armand between 8 and 10 cents, below profit of $4 million, or 4 cents a and privacy of the rear motor Marciano, senior executive vice president of the firm, whose earlier guidance of 11 to 12 cents, diluted share, which includes a courtyard will work well with stake was cut to 11.6 percent. With the transactions, Maurice and with comparable-store sales pro- pretax restructuring credit of her high-profile and celebrity Armand directly or indirectly hold 17 million and 5 million jected in the negative mid-single- $3.5 million, for the three months clients,” said Chuck Dembo, shares of the firm, respectively, according to the Form 4 docu- digit range for the period. ended Feb. 1. Excluding the re- partner at Beverly Hills real es- ments filed with the Securities and Exchange Commission this To cut costs, LB will elimi- structuring credit, which was an- tate firm Dembo & Associates, week. As of last September, their brother, Paul Marciano, co- nate about 160 jobs at its corpo- nounced Jan. 28, 2002, net in- who facilitated the lease. chairman and co-ceo, held 13 million shares of Guess, or about rate and divisional offices, about come was $1.9 million, or 2 cents. The designer, on a short sab- 29.9 percent of those outstanding. 14 percent of the workforce in In the year-ago quarter, the re- batical “somewhere in Califor- those locales. In addition, it tailer reported a loss of $27.8 mil- nia,” could not be reached for ● BON-TON TOP GUY: Frank Tworecke has been promoted to plans to consolidate the distribu- lion, or 25 cents, which included comment Tuesday. president and chief operating officer of The Bon-Ton Stores, the tion operations of its LB and Continued on page 21 McCartney’s camp said the York, Pa.-based department store group. Tworecke has been building’s exterior would re- with the store since 1999, most recently as vice chairman and main intact with some modern chief merchandising officer. He succeeds Heywood Wilanski, twists thrown inside. “She likes who has joined Filene’s Basement. Tworecke previously was contrast and a paradox,” noted president and chief operating officer of Jos. A. Bank Clothiers James Seuss, chief executive of and president of Merry-Go-Round Stores. Jim Baireuther, vice Stella McCartney Ltd., speaking chairman and chief administrative officer, will now report to You are invited from the company’s headquar- Tworecke, who reports to Tim Grumbacher, chairman and chief to the 6th annual ters in London on Tuesday. “It executive of Bon-Ton, which operates 72 stores in nine states. New York, New York has a charming English feel to it. That, with something inter- ® esting on the inside, is the con- WWDStock Market Index for March 18 Whole Bead Show cept. But we haven’t defined the Now, two ballrooms over flowing with concept in its entirety.” Composite: 100.32 Broadline Stores: 101.33 Softline Stores: 96.39 all beads and jewels to fulfill your dreams. The design for McCartney’s two other outposts has tended to New York’s Hotel Pennsylvania • Penn Top & Sky Top ballrooms vary according to the geograph- 18th Floor 401 7th Avenue between 32nd and 33rd ic location, clientele and physi- • 0.04 0.47 -0.90 Across from Madison Square Garden cal space. The designer’s first store, a Textiles: 96.56 March 21st – 23rd, 2003 • Friday & Saturday 10 AM to 6 PM • Sunday 12 noon to 5 PM 4,000-square-foot unit that Vendors: 99.86 opened last September at 429 Index base of 100 is Wholesale Retail Open to the public Admission is $5.00 for all buyers/attendees • • • West 14th Street in New York, keyed to closing prices Wholesale buyers must bring a copy of their resale license features an elaborate dirty pink of Dec. 31, 2002. For a list of merchants or to sign up for a workshop go to www.wholebead.com fabric wall of romantic painted -1.03 -1.42 Continued on page 22 3 WWD, WEDNESDAY,WWD, 2003 19, MARCH

TALKING POINTS Subliminal Messages

By Katherine Bowers Gerald Zaltman CAMBRIDGE, Mass. — Aim for the unconscious. That’s the advice of Harvard Business School professor Gerald Zaltman, whose new book “How Customers Think” says that focus groups are passé, surveys overrated and the real gold mine lies in consumers’ unconscious, that “messy stew of memories, emo- tions, thoughts and other cognitive processes we’re not aware of or can’t articulate.” “Consumers have far less access to their own mental processes than marketers give them credit for,” Zaltman added. “And many times, what they say contradicts what they actually do. ” To access what consumers can’t tell them, future marketing executives will be spending their time analyzing brain scans, using techniques like voice-pitch analysis to measure unconscious emotional responses and doing one-on-one “deep-dive” inter- views to elicit core thoughts and emotions many people share. Zaltman’s done much of this type of work for the Mind of the Market Lab, a think tank he co-founded and which has worked with Procter & Gamble, Coca-Cola, General Mills, Hallmark and other major corporations. In his Harvard University office clut- tered with models of the human brain, Zaltman sat down to discuss his book, what he thinks is wrong with the shopping experience today and how retailers should refocus.

WWD: You mention in your book that one a koala unconsciously cues warmth. Can of the things that’s really changed the you give me an example like that from the playing field for marketers is the growing retail world of an environment that was skepticism, particularly among younger somehow discordant? consumers. Zaltman: People have said they don’t want Zaltman: The issue of skepticism is a major to shop in settings that are dense, like challenge. It’s getting worse. And lots of tropical rain forests. One woman actually companies contribute to it. One of the brought in a picture of a rain forest — and things you used to do is go shopping. It was she said it was a department store a journey. Now in many ways, shopping is because it’s dense with all kinds of stuff coming to us, whether we like it or not. We and signs and also causes anxiety. There can’t escape it. When we come home, there is something there at every level and is all the mail we get. There are catalogs, you’re not protected from being grabbed the Internet, e-mails and commercials. by the unknown. People describing the The telemarketing calls. The retail setting “rain forest” effect describe really bright is moving from outside the home to inside lights or the smell of too many people. It the home. And as it gets there, it’s hitting was not a bad smell, but it was a crowded us in different moods and contexts. smell. The feeling of the aisles being very narrow and having to jostle other people. WWD: You make it sound as if all this That gave them a sense of invasion of pri- solicitation is forcing the consumer to

vacy or vulnerability. One person com- ADASKAVEG MIKE BY PHOTO hold shopping at arm’s length, for his or mented on the inability to have room to her sanity. step back so she could hold something out WWD: What else is important in an ideal izes and marketers can, in a sense, Zaltman: We’ve found it’s creating a sense and look at it. setting? reengineer someone’s memory. of paradox, heightening the sense of play Zaltman: What becomes important first of Zaltman: It’s interesting and it’s a bit and work. Because there is that duality to WWD: Tell me about metaphor elicitation. all is they have to feel comfortable physi- scary. I don’t think marketers now are shopping. The work element is when you That’s a key part of your work, since you cally in the store. Physical comfort is a sur- reengineering memories in a deliberate need something and it’s difficult to locate believe there are many common stories rogate for emotional comfort. If I’m not sense. I think they’re doing it inadver- choice, to make comparisons, which can or metaphors embedded in people’s comfortable physically, I can’t feel relaxed tently and probably not as effectively as make it kind of frustrating. But in the unconscious. and calm. I can’t feel open. If I’m uptight, they could. The reality is the opportunity process of working to find what you want, Zaltman: Yes, we call them consensus I’m going to move more quickly and process to do that effectively is substantial. My there should be some unexpected discov- maps — the reason they are so valuable is information hurriedly. I need dressing guess is sooner or later more and more eries that make it playful. they turn out to be deep-seated and fairly rooms that are clean and feel somehow people will start to do that. universal. With metaphor elicitation, we familiar, vaguely like a home setting. WWD: What have retailers done to height- make appointments with people for one- WWD: Flash forward 10 years — will mar- en that sense of play? on-one interviews that take several hours. WWD: What do clothing stores need to do keters need to be much more scientifical- Zaltman: Some of our studies involved the We tell them to bring images or pictures differently or better to connect with cus- ly literate than they are now? use of music. The research shows that even with them to describe feelings on a cer- tomers? Zaltman: I think that’s where they need to when people aren’t aware of music, it tain topic. By now, we’ve conducted inter- Zaltman: One of the interesting things go and sooner or later they will. The impacts their behavior and how they views in two dozen countries with thou- from this study is that so much of shop- advances occurring in brain science are record in memory the shopping experi- sands of people. It can be enormously ping is done for someone else. Even if it’s vast whether its response latency tests, ence. The right kind of music can shape the telling. For instance, we’ve asked man- my own attire, I’m thinking about how it’s FMRI [functional magnetic resonance mood, shape the mood of a memory and agers to describe what a company is like going to affect others. A lot of mothers see imaging] or one of the other techniques. create a more pleasurable experience than that truly has someone’s best interest at shopping with children of varying ages as They generally help researchers under- different music or the absence of music. I heart. They brought in pictures of coaches part of their instructional experience. So stand the unconscious, where the rich think the role of music in shaping our and teachers with children. When we even though parents may not like to take stuff is, and I think people will become mood and enhancing our thinking is not asked consumers to bring in pictures, they kids shopping, they feel an obligation to more focused on how do we access that very well understood by marketers. The bring in members of a team in a huddle, do so sometimes because it’s a way of and measure it. other thing that’s interesting is the role of kids playing together. Customers brought transferring social norms. An important light — people are very sensitive without in pictures of equals. The managers thing to look at is do stores help that or WWD: Are you worried these techniques knowing they’re being affected by light. brought in pictures of superior and inferi- hinder shopping with children. will increase consumer distrust? or. And I think that’s very revealing. Not Zaltman: I think that’s a critical issue. WWD: Is there one sense that’s more that there was ill intent, but it was the WWD: A big industry issue is the heavily The techniques are in a sense about important than others in determining a unconscious perception. promotional climate — training customers interviewing the brain. But that gets good shopping environment? never to show up unless there’s a sale. transformed into worries about brain- Zaltman: It’s not so much lighting, or sound WWD: What kinds of pictures did people What impact is that having on consumers’ washing and methods being used to insert or fragrance or color as it is all of those bring in for an ideal retail setting? perception of shopping? ideas people didn’t have or don’t want to things together. They all get processed at Zaltman: One person brought in a picture Zaltman: One of the things people in stud- have. There’s something spooky about once and if some of them are out of sync, of a military tank — surprising, right? So ies say about a sale is, ‘It’s a reminder of monitoring brain activity that worries it’s like having a pebble in the shoe. For I asked her, ‘Are you in the tank or out- how much you’re getting ripped off by.’ So people in a way that very sophisticated instance, if I ask, ‘Which is brighter, a side?’ She said she was driving the tank. if a retailer is willing to sell it at 30 per- analysis of a survey does not. But I don’t sneeze or a cough?’ most people will She felt like she could exert control over cent off, that’s a direct measure of it. No think the ethics reside in the method. answer sneeze. It’s an automatic answer the store and it gave her a sense of digni- one makes an exact dollar calculation, Rather I see right and wrong in how the and it doesn’t matter in which country you ty and equality. She felt she was protected but the idea of being ripped off comes insight is used once obtained. So, for ask it, people will still say sneeze. It shows when she went to this store and it was in into play. It’s the dark side of a sale: the example, I think most people would be we have these automatic connections a number of different ways — she felt she feeling that the markdown is the percent- delighted to see these methods — brain across our senses. We actually create our was protected from a salesperson and age by which they were trying to rip me scans and so forth — used to evaluate thoughts by integrating our senses. protected by sales personnel. The sense off and now that they were unsuccessful, which anti-smoking campaign would be of them being available, but not intrusive. they’re coming down in price. effective. Maybe they wouldn’t be happy WWD: Speaking of integrating senses, in If something went wrong bringing some- seeing that same information used by your book you use the example of an ad thing back was not a hassle. That was WWD: One of the more provocative ideas McDonalds. Ultimately, the real enemy is for a cold drink with a picture of a koala another sense of protection that pro- in your book is your assertion that memo- not a method, it’s people who use the bear, which confused consumers because duced her overall sense of security. ries are more malleable than anyone real- results in ways we don’t approve of. 4 Red-Carpet Blackout: Stars Shun Glamour Gowns in Favor of War-Appropriate Attire

scenery taken from one Ainhoa of the company’s famous Arteta productions. This night is the Met’s biggest fundraiser. It’s called “On Stage at the Met.” And this particular party the other night raised almost $1.5 million. That’s an awful lot of arias. In a burst of corporate celebration, the guest of

WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 19, 2003 WWD, WEDNESDAY, honor was William B. Harrison Jr., the chairman and ceo of J.P. Morgan Chase, and the dinner chairmen who saluted him were Robert Effner, chairman, president and ceo of Wyeth; Maurice R. Greenberg, chairman and ceo of American International Group, Inc., and David J. O’Reilly, chairman and ceo of Chevron Texaco Corp. — all generous donors, you may be sure. They and 596 others more or less like them, surrounded by the magnificent scenery from the Met’s new production, “Les Troyens,” sat down to a fine dinner, purveyed by HRH the Glorious Food, of lobster Infanta with Louis sauce, beef Elena of tournedos and warm Spain chocolate soufflé with fresh raspberries, pistachio ice cream and orange sorbet. The tables, covered in shades of mango, lemon and

Suzy orange, were draped with mango-colored organza By Aileen Mehle overlays and centered with tiered glass bowls Many of the best-dressed ladies of the silver holding floating rose screen, such as Nicole Kidman, Halle Berry, petals and candles, all the Renée Zellweger, Jennifer Lopez, work of Bill Tansey. eye® Catherine Zeta-Jones and Salma Hayek, are During diner, the famous rethinking their red-carpet dresses due to American bass Samuel the impending war, as are Susan Sarandon, Julia Roberts, Ramey sang “Ole Man Julianne Moore, Meg Ryan, Meryl Streep and Diane River” and merely Cécile Zilkha Lane. None of them wants to be seen frivolously twirling brought down the house. her way into parties looking too glamorous and too The Michael Carney concerned about what she is wearing. The world’s top sweepstakes and the contest for Best Actress is Nicole Orchestra provided the evening’s music. designers, including Giorgio Armani, Karl Lagerfeld, Kidman who has let go of the Los Angeles mansion she Everywhere you looked in the crowd, you saw the King Miuccia Prada and Tom Ford, as well as New York’s and shared with Tom Cruise. Nicole loves gray skies and rain and Queen of Spain’s daughter, HRH the Infanta Elena and Hollywood’s top stylists, have all had frantic calls asking and therefore London town. So, she’s said to be shopping her husband, the Duke of Lugo; the British Ambassador to for subdued and beautiful choices for Hollywood’s big for a house there. And it’s not just the weather she’s fond the U.N. Jeremy Greenstock and Lady Greenstock; Mary night. That means less bosom-baring and no gold lamé. of, but the people and their humor, so much so that she and Mike Wallace; Beverly Sills; Catherine and David It was going to be all about color, beads and layers and wants to make fun of herself in a comedy on the West End. Hamilton from Chicago; Judy and Ed Ney; the diva, Anna layers of chiffon, but that is all changing as of this moment. Nicole has a lot of close girlfriends ready to catch her if Moffo; Karen and Peter John Goulandris; Carol and Stars who chose bright colors are going to black. All those she falls, the same ones who helped her get over her George McFadden; Dwane Croft and Ainhoa Arteta; who went for neutrals, yellow, cream, beige or white are marriage breakup with Tom, the ones who are constant. Luella and Frank Bennack of the Hearst Bennacks; Mrs. sticking with their choices. When it comes to jewelry, the “Men,” she says, “they come and go. But girls, they stay.” Samuel (Lindsay) Ramey — the Rameys are expecting a big houses like Harry Winston are getting requests for For Oscar night, she’s leaning toward black and she’s been child next month — Susan Braddock (she is the Met more subtle pieces. But don’t you worry, Hollywood will on the phone to Karl Lagerfeld, for one. Karl designed the Guild president); Wendy and Bill Luers; Mrs. William R. still razzle-dazzle you one way or another. beautiful pink pleated Chanel she wore to great acclaim at (Ann) Harrison Jr.; Georgette Mosbacher; the Raymond Renée Zellweger, for one, is starting to show signs of last year’s Oscars. Gilmartins of Merck; Shirley and Abe Rosenthal and last Oscar fashion fatigue. She says she has already worn 40 ● but never least, the Met’s dynamic vice chairman, Cécile outfits in three weeks in the marathon of interviews and Richard Gere is tapping into his “Chicago” success as a Zilkha, there with her proud husband, Ezra. Does parties on two continents for “Chicago” and is due to wear hoofer to land the role opposite Jennifer Lopez in a remake everyone know that Cécile, the benefit chairman of the at least 20 more this week, including, of course, the big of the Japanese ballroom-dancing film, “Shall We Dance?” evening, organizes all the Met’s dazzling benefit programs one Sunday night for which she looked at more than 100 — to be produced by Miramax and directed by Peter and raises millions for the opera company? Well, just about choices — including vintage gowns from almost as many Chelsom. Richard would play a bored middle-aged everyone. She is the Met’s wonder woman. designers. What she says somewhat endearingly is: “I’m accountant who lights up his life by taking dance lessons ● sick of talking about myself. In fact, I’m sick of talking.” from a hot instructor, played by, well, you guess. Meanwhile, The actor William H. Macy is the United Cerebral Palsy of What she and the rest of the stars choose to wear on Renée Zellweger — yes, she’s everywhere — wants to hit New York City’s chairman of its 48th annual awards dinner on Oscar night is always a big question made even more Broadway. She’s thrilled that the strike has ended and is April 23 at the Marriott Marquis. Henry Kissinger and Rupert difficult by current events. In 2001, the Emmys were supposed to be looking for a show to call her very own. Murdoch are on the executive committee and Meredith Viera postponed due to Sept. 11, and a more dressed-down ● will be the mistress of ceremonies. Two weeks later, Hearst’s version of the usual glamorous doings took place two Every year, the Metropolitan Opera gives a big Cathleen Black will serve as the honorary chairman of UCP’s months later. At this point, it looks as if the show will go glittering dinner dance right on the Met’s huge stage. The next big to-do at the Regent Wall Street on May 8 honoring on. But we will have to wait and see what happens in the guests, many of them philanthropic corporate giants and Marlo Thomas, Helen Gurley Brown, Marie Wilson and best-dressed battle in Hollywood this year. their ladies, dine sumptuously and dance the best way they Madeline Boyd. Among the special guests Cathleen promises Running neck and neck with Renée in the fashion can, right in the middle of that enormous expanse amidst to produce are Diane Sawyer and Catherine Crier. PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY 5 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 19, 2003 A spokesperson for a M. Los by Amour, Wrapping up Madrid Fashion Week, David Delfín continued to mine his ul- Another relative Alma newcomer, she needs at SIMM. “I buy special-occa- sion items for an unstuffy older, customer. fall, I’ve ordered For mix-and-match party separates, including floaty pants and skirts in vibrant colors. I live in the sun so pastels.” strong colors do better than Angeles-based label, also praised the show, reporting solid bookings for the firm’s novelty with T-shirts mixed-up patchwork effects and embroideries à la Custo Barcelona that wholesale for $56 to $66. The company has 86 doors in Spain and plans a Portuguese launch for later this year. the SIMM-sponsored runway presenta- tions, Pasarela Cibeles, featured 26 de- signers and 21 shows. Key trends includ- ed provocative transparencies and off- the-shoulder tops; black; mini-lengths; slim-cut pants; texture and fabric inter- est, particularly velvet, fur and leather, and skyscraper heels. tracool aesthetic with everything from luxury cashmere separates and camel- hair coats to sheer and shadowy night looks with Morticia makeup. Spain’s top model, Bimba Bosé, is partner Delfín’s in the two-year-old eponymous venture. Aguilar (Salma Hayek is a fan), opted for a pretty — and endless — series of black, including peppy separates, petti- coats, feminine dresses and coats with leg-warmers. Additional highlights from the runway were Jesús del Pozo’s knobby handknits; Roberto Torretta’s sexy separates and Sixties retro dress- es, and Roberto zipper-cov- Verino’s ered silk pants and shiny/matte night- statement. for-day

An Alma Aguilar look at Madrid Week. Fashion PHOTO BY C. YAGUE C. BY PHOTO Madrid’s ready-to-wear fair is the sec- Traffic at the four-day show rose al- But clothing exports are stagnant, ac- Not all retailers sang the blues, howev- ond largest in Europe after Düsseldorf ’s CPD. Despite the market’s dismal per- formance, the February edition broke all previous records, according to IFEMA, the trade event’s organizer. The number of exhibitors increased roughly 6 percent over last to February, 875 from 29 coun- tries, and they spread over 8 percent more floor space, or 330,000 square feet, here. of the Juan Carlos I fairgrounds most 13 percent to 31,718 visitors. Major buying groups came from Portugal, Mexico, France, Italy and Great Britain. me, “To the most important figure is a 31 percent increase in foreigners. The inter- nationalism of the feria has always been my said priority,” Pola Iglesias, SIMM di- She rector. called the trade event “a great channel of communication to for- eign markets and a suitable export plat- form for Spanish producers.” cording to published reports by Spain’s Textile and Apparel Information Center. Shipments from both sectors rose a mar- ginal 4.9 percent last year to $6.69 bil- lion, compared with a 14 percent in- crease in 2001. er. “My business is excellent,” said Elizabeth Beer, owner Boutique, a 19-year-old shop in the coastal of Plumes province of Malaga, who said she buys all new affiliation of Medici U.K. “Prices on fall merchandise are up an average of 10 percent because of higher-quality fabrics and better finishings. com- Stores haven’t plained, but they’re buying smaller quan- tities.” Under the new banner, evening- wear featured fresh colorations like grape and truffle brown.

The continuing economic

The first-time SIMM exhibitor fea- The month-old label is building up a Between confusion over the euro and “Spanish consumers have tightened their belts,” said Carina Bentolila, a human resources analyst and spokes- woman for Marcelane, a London-based manufacturer of special-occasion dress- es. “They want don’t to The spend money. euro has hiked prices across the board, from groceries to housing, and domestic spending is way down. Independent re- tailers are doing very badly and are los- ing a great deal of money. For instance, traditional January sales offered mark- downs of 60 to 70 percent. At least with the sales, and some stretched retailers through of can February, them have get something back.” tured tops, jackets and dresses in bead- ed patterns and sultry lingerie styling. Bentolila said her bestseller was an asymmetric silk chiffon dress in a hand painted tangerine print, to wholesale for $254. network of global distributors “and we plan to really go after the U.S. market,” said Marcelane representative Robert de Boer. “The Spanish show is quite good. signed We on 12 new accounts in two days; we’re very happy.” the threat of war, Spain has become “a very complicated market,” said Joyce Antaki, Spanish agent for After Six, a MADRID — slump, growing possibility of a war with Iraq and increased prices due to a climb- ing euro — roughly 25 percent higher than last year — are paralyzing Spain’s said vendors and retail- apparel industry, ers at the recent SIMM show. SIMMMarket Lament Spanish Attendees Barker Barbara By 6

Wool jacket, silk blouse and denim jeans. New Departures IRVINE, Calif. — The ladies of St. John may be devoted to everything timeless, but they aren’t afraid to throw something new into the mix. At the show held at U.C. Irvine’s Bren Arena on Friday, Marie Gray proceeded to pair her classic tweed jackets with new jeans featuring EDNESDAY, MARCH 19, 2003 EDNESDAY, W

very modern, if somewhat surprising, 10-inch rises. She also sent out a ,

D parade of 16-inch miniskirts — the St. John lady hasn’t seen so much W

W leg since the early Nineties. Accented with baubles from the firm’s new fine jewelry collection and the wonderfully chic Guiseppe Zanotti- designed footwear, it looked, in a word, great. For evening, there were paillettes, paillettes and more paillettes on sexy halter gowns, wrap dresses and wide-legged pants topped with bustiers. Nipped-in jackets featured tiny sequins and beads in geometric and floral patterns that would do any Oscar nominee proud. “It’s all about choices and targeting new customers,” said creative director and president Kelly Gray, who added with a wink, “it’s all my mother’s idea.”

Sequined Wool wool and poncho. rayon dress.

Belted wool coat. PHOTOS BY JOE CHAVEZ JOE BY PHOTOS 7 P&G Inks Deal for Wella WEDNESDAY,WWD, 2003 19, MARCH Continued from page one the last month, involves P&G buying out the stake held by Wella’s Lifetex Wella’s majority shareholders, the Ströher family. That Wellness stake gives P&G 77.6 percent of the voting shares. brand is an German law requires ownership of 75 percent of the vot- example of the ing shares to gain control. In addition, P&G said it will company’s make a tender offer for the remaining outstanding professional shares, putting the value of the entire deal at $6.9 billion. hair care P&G will fund the deal through $5.7 billion in cash offerings. and the assumption of $1.2 billion in debt. The tender for the remaining voting shares represents a 58 percent pre- mium over the average stock price during the last six months, while the tender for preferred shares repre- sents a 15 percent premium. The deal is subject to regulatory review and govern- ment approval in various markets, including the European Union and the U.S. Wella’s board said in a statement that it has been advised of the agreement signed by Wella family members. The board, which emphasized that it was not a party to the agreement, added: “The announced signing of a contract does not mean that Procter & Gamble has already gained control of Wella AG. Rather, the shares will only be trans- ferred to Procter & Gamble once the necessary regulatory approvals have been obtained. Until that point in time, there will be no major changes in the running of Wella’s day-to-day business.” Heiner Gürtler, Wella’s chairman, said in the state- ment: “We will continue to implement our strategy and pursue our internal targets.” P&G’s announcement was made during a company presentation at an analyst-investor meeting hosted by Merrill Lynch Tuesday morning. Shares of P&G closed Tuesday at $86.62, up 1.3 percent, in trading on the New York Stock Exchange. P&G executives said during the presentation that the tender offer would be launched in four weeks, and remain open for about eight to 10 weeks. The company hopes to close the deal in four to six months. The purchase is expected to have neutral earnings effect in its first year. P&G said it expects slight accretion Koleston Perfect to earnings per share in year two of the purchase. Wella is is Wella’s projected to be “solidly accretive in year three.” leading Alan G. Lafley, chairman, president and chief execu- professional hair tive officer of P&G, told attendees: “Given the strength color brand. and the momentum of P&G’s business, we are well-posi- tioned to integrate Wella and execute with excellence from day one.” to be making one, but maybe they do. They see the high- time would be a lot for a company, even P&G,” she said. The Wella acquisition touches P&G in a number of er market, salons, as an important business to be in,” Another analyst agreed, saying that Beiersdorf may ways. First and foremost, the deal gives P&G an instant Christopher said. “They are buying some good brands, be breathing easier in the wake of the P&G-Wella deal. foothold in the growing professional hair care sector, [and the price for Wella] was less than two times sales, “The pressure [on Beiersdorf] is off in the short term, as and extends P&G’s strength in the retail hair care mar- but in a tough global economy, and especially Germany, one of the major players is out, ” the analyst said, sug- ket. Overall, the deal adds $2.8 billion in hair care sales which can’t get out of their own box, [P&G] should have gesting that P&G would be out of the running for an to P&G’s $4.5 billion hair care business. In the profes- paid a more reasonable price.” acquisition the size of Nivea for at least two years. sional arena within hair care, Wella’s $1.7 billion salon Despite edging out L’Oréal in overall hair care sales, As for L’Oréal’s interest in Beiersdorf, the analyst said business boosts P&G to a second-place ranking, up from there are still questions over whether P&G can success- that the company “is not in acquisition mode right now. its scant $200 million professional business. Wella’s fully gain share from L’Oréal, a leader in many of the They’d love Nivea but they’re not interested in the rest overall sales last year were $3.5 billion. same markets where P&G and Wella products can be [of Beiersdorf ’s portfolio.]” Unilever, the analyst added, Wella’s mass retail business, valued at approximately found. That, in part, was one reason why the maneuver- “is focusing on spreading out the Dove brand which $1.1 billion in annual sales, adds to P&G’s $4.3 billion mass ing for control over Wella was closely watched by indus- would be cannibilized by an acquisition of Nivea.” retail business, solidifying P&G’s lead in the mass retail try executives both overseas and here. Still, there are the Japanese. Word has it, he said, that hair care market. Bruce Byrnes, P&G’s vice president of In addition to P&G, L’Oréal and Unilever were reported- Kao, for one, is keen on European acquisitions. global hair care, added that Wella’s retail hair colorant ly interested in Wella. Earlier this month, as rumors swirled These days, major firms could be on the verge of business brings P&G into unclaimed territory abroad. that P&G would swoop in to take over the hair and cosmet- divesting their non-core beauty assets, leaving the land- While Wella’s strength in Europe complements P&G’s ics firm, consumer goods firm Henkel fired the first shot by scape wide open for shifts in market share, particularly strength in North America, the acquisition also expands acquiring a 6.9 percent stake in Wella. as conglomerates such as P&G spend time and resources P&G’s beauty businesses across Eastern and Western Clayton Daley, chief financial officer for P&G, said building up what are now just incremental brands into Europe, as well as in Latin America. during the company presentation regarding shareholder specialty niche players. Wella will continue to operate from Darmstaad, tender of outstanding shares: “We have not spoken to At LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, insiders say Germany, Byrnes said, adding that on the professional Henkel….We’re just cautiously optimistic [that] the folks that for the past 18 months its Guerlain brand has been end “we will keep the business running the way it is. at Henkel, having made a pretty nice little profit on their shown to various companies for a possible sale. They also Then, we will turn our attention to where we have redun- investment, [are] just happy to take the profit, but that is say LVMH brands such as Givenchy and Kenzo, plus some dancies in administration, manufacturing and opera- out of our hands.” of the firm’s smaller beauty holdings and LVMH’s tions, retail selling, and other places where we can take Henkel reportedly has said that it will not make a Sephora perfumery chain, could be disposed of. the best [of what we have and what they have.]” counterbid. Unilever PLC’s prestige beauty division, which In addition to synergies and global sourcing capabili- While no one expects L’Oréal to sit on its laurels and groups together numerous beauty brands including ties in hair care, Wella’s fragrance business also is com- allow P&G to gain on its overall beauty market share Calvin Klein Cosmetics, Cerruti, Lagerfeld, Chloé and plementary to P&G’s. Wella’s fragrances, such as Gucci lead, most of industry focus is now centered on what will Valentino, could also be a takeover targets going for- and Escada, targets the female customer, while P&G’s happen to Beiersdorf. ward. While sources say the division is not currently on Lacoste and Hugo Boss targets the male consumer. Beiersdorf, which owns Nivea, Juvena and La Prairie, the market, Morgan Stanley had reportedly been called A credit analyst observed: “It doesn’t look like there’s among other brands, has been keeping the rumor mill in some months ago to handle a sale. a lot of overlap in these businesses. The deal gives P&G going double time. That’s because its majority sharehold- Already, the beauty industry has been rife with merg- new markets, new product lines and new capabilities as er Allianz has been shopping around its 43.6 percent ers and acquisitions. Within the past six months, LVMH far as research and development are concerned.” stake, while German coffee company Tchibo’s 30 percent sold two indie brands, Urban Decay and Hard Candy, to Amy Low Chasen, equity analyst at Goldman, Sachs & Co., “blocking minority” remains an obstacle. the Falic family; Puig Beauty and Fashion signed a beau- wrote in a research note: “The Wella deal is a nice add-on to As reported, P&G has been eyeing Beiersdorf, looking ty license with Commes des Garçons, and Hutchison P&G’s global hair care business but was not critical. to add its Nivea skin care line to P&G’s corporate Whampoa acquired Europe’s leading health-and-beauty Nonetheless, the expected synergies give us comfort that umbrella. Others, such as Unilever, reportedly have retailer Kruidvat Group through its A.S. Watson sub- Wella will not be a deterrent to the company’s existing been giving Nivea further consideration as well. The sidiary — to name but a few. growth strategy — to the contrary, it could be additive. Post- timing of a deal for Beiersdorf, if any were to take place, Given the tough economic times and the industry’s Wella, hair care will represent about 16 percent of P&G’s could be the determining factor regarding which firm struggles, most executives believe it is impossible to cre- sales up from about 11 percent currently.” takes control of the skin care line. ate new, large brands because of the steep investment Douglas Christopher, an analyst with Crowell One Wall Street analyst didn’t expect P&G to make a required. Small brands, for their part, find it equally dif- Weedon, said the acquisition signals the importance of move anytime soon. ficult to survive because of retail consolidation. being a player in the salon market. “Another large acquisition would have additional — With contributions from Jennifer Weil, “It’s a big acquisition at a time I don’t think they need integration risk. Trying to assimilate two at the same Paris, and Melissa Drier, Germany 8 Juicy: Claiborne’s New Squeeze Claiborne, Kellwood Continued from page 2 store and international distribution, Charron Cameron Diaz wore a Juicy terry said, adding that there are “abundant brand hoodie to a Lakers game, where Sign Deal extension opportunities in nonapparel cate- she greeted Shaquile O’Neal. gories, as well as company-owned retail NEW YORK — Liz Claiborne stores, additional international distribution Inc. has reached an agree- and licensing. We expect this transaction to ment with Kellwood Co.’s be accretive to earnings per share by approxi- Halmode division to license mately 2 cents in 2003.” women’s dresses and suits, Following Liz Claiborne’s acquisition ap- including special occasion,

WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 19, 2003 WWD, WEDNESDAY, proach of letting companies they buy run al- bridal, mother of the bride, most autonomously, Charron assured that and dresses with coordinat- Juicy Couture would be no different — and ing jackets, under the Liz that co-founders Pamela Skaist-Levy and Gela Claiborne, Liz Claiborne Taylor would remain as co-presidents, ensur- Woman and Liz Claiborne ing the brand’s vision and focus remain true. Petites brands. “While we will strengthen Juicy Couture The agreement will not with systems and business processes and by include dresses sold as providing capital needed for growth, I want part of the Liz Claiborne to emphasize that the unique identity of the collection, Lizsport, brand will be retained and nurtured,” Lizwear, Liz & Co. and Liz Charron said. “We have developed a proven Claiborne Woman sports- methodology for doing this, as evidenced by wear lines. The current li- our successful integration of similar private- cense with Leslie Fay Co. ly held, designer-oriented companies like will end June 30. Lucky Brand, Sigrid Olsen, Laundry and The new Kellwood-pro- most recently, Ellen Tracy.” duced line of dresses will Over the past couple of years, celebrities be available in stores be- such as Cameron Diaz, Jennifer Aniston, ginning this fall. The ini- Britney Spears, Jennifer Lopez and Madonna tial collection of suits will have taken a liking to Juicy Couture’s signa- be in stores starting in ture velour tracksuits, opening the eyes of spring 2004. consumers who now want Juicy suits of their “Dresses and suits are own. Predominantly targeting high-end spe- an important segment of cialty retailers like Scoop, Henri Bendel, Saks women’s apparel and Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s and Fred Segal, Kellwood has shown con- Juicy Couture will become even siderable success in build- more visible with this acquisition. ing this aspect of their “I just wrote the biggest order business,” Barbara J. of my career with Juicy,” said Friedman, president of li- Stefani Greenfield, owner of censing at Liz Claiborne Scoop. “It continues to be my Inc., said in a statement. number-one business. As long as “Our companies share a Pam and Gela stay involved, it “pure brand” because able celebrity following, we think their po- dedication to superior will continue to be a great compa- it has no licenses and tential globally is huge. They currently do 15 style, quality and value ny. They are such a great talent. said the company percent of their business outside America, and we are confident that They have the potential to extend wants to take it to the broken down to 8 percent in Europe, 5 per- this new collection will the brand into so many categories next level and develop cent in Canada, 2 percent in Asia.” please the Liz Claiborne and I look forward to Juicy be- it into a “powerhouse In addition, Ahrendts assured that Liz consumer.” coming a full lifestyle brand.” lifestyle brand.” Claiborne has no intentions of overdistribut- Leslie Fay chief execu- “We’ve carried Juicy since the “The most critical ing the brand either, adding: “Part of their tive officer W. John Short beginning and it is our best-per- part is that Pam and cachet is distributing to the high-end stores. said in the statement that forming resource in the store,” Gela, the founders, will It’s a very different strategy. It’s much more the company would work said Frank Doroff, executive vice be running the show,” like designer in the contemporary market. with Liz Claiborne and president of Bloomingdale’s. “I said Ahrendts, noting We do see opportunities in jewelry, acces- Kellwood through the tran- think this is very positive for Pam that the deal was final- sories, handbags, as well as myriad potential sition to ensure uninter- and Gela to be creative.” ized at about 2 a.m. licenses like swimwear. But one step at a rupted merchandise flow. Taylor said: “This partnership Tuesday. “It’s their vi- time. We’re simply here to help them execute Short said, “The transfer will help set us free to be creative sion. The philosophy will their ideas.” of this license to Kellwood and do what we have been wanting not change, their current Apparel consultant Emanuel Weintraub, will allow us to focus on to do with Juicy for so long. Pam Tori Spelling in a Juicy velour hoodie distribution strategies, said: “This adds a certain spice and newness developing and extending and I are still in charge of every- and jeans. etc. Everything will re- to the cross-pollination to all that’s Liz. Jones our proprietary brands.” thing creative and that’s the way Liz Claiborne main pure. We’re simply coming in as back-end seems to be on a different strategy, they’re Denise Miller will lead wants it. This partnership is strictly financial.” operational partners and it’s their vision on the buying big, big businesses. But Paul the Liz Claiborne Dress Taylor and Skaist-Levy said they plan to front end. We’ll free them up to focus on the [Charron] is buying brands that have some and Suit division as presi- launch a series of products, such as a larger brand and start immediately to put into place cachet and tend to be a little upscale and he dent. Miller most recently men’s line, fragrances, accessories and cos- some back-end support, which they say they feels he can build into that upscale market. was division head of Sag metics, as well as open a few retail locations of need, financial support, intellectual capital and He demonstrated that with Sigrid Olsen, and Harbor suits for Halmode. their own. analyzing their distribution facilities.” has taken that and really moved it. Some She reports to Jay Dia- “We are going to make Juicy the next big Ahrendts scoffed at the thought that Juicy small companies have wonderful ideas, but mond, Halmode ceo, and American brand,” Skaist-Levy said. Couture might have had its moment in the they can’t get the financial strength to exe- Bea Myerson, Halmode On a call en route to the Juicy offices in Southern California sun, saying: “Not even cute them. Whether it’s new computer sys- president. Los Angeles, Angela Ahrendts, executive vice close. Oh my gosh, because of the intense tems or opening something up in Europe or — K.L. president of Liz Claiborne, called Juicy a publicity they’ve received and the unbeliev- Japan, those things take funding.”

the designer has kept busy by Foundation for AIDS Research on A Joop organizing the first U.S. exhibition of May 29. sketch. his sketches that will bow at Fashion Scoops Sotheby’s in New York on May 30. ENGLISHMAN IN NEW YORK: Lord The show, which originated at Frederick Windsor has put aside the OSCAR HOPEFUL: Nicole Kidman — and then the film won,” Farhi the Kunsthaus Apolda Avantgarde family tradition and got himself a won’t be the only Nicole with said. Hare, the prolific English in Germany last year, includes job. The son of Prince and Princess butterflies in her stomach at the screenwriter and playwright, has many of the original illustrations Michael of Kent has been recruited Academy Awards ceremony on been nominated for best-adapted and portraits Joop created over 35 by Quintessentially, the high-end Sunday night. Designer Nicole Farhi, screenplay for “The Hours.” Not years. The designer started working concierge service founded by Ben who’s married to Sir David Hare, surprisingly, his wife will be in fashion as an illustrator covering Elliot. Working out of New York — plans to accompany her husband to dressing herself for the red carpet. fashion shows for German and where the London-based company the Kodak Theater — and she’s Farhi says she plans to don the navy Swiss publications in the Seventies, has recently opened an outpost — already steeling herself for the blue tulle dress that was featured in and some of his drawings of the Windsor will be writing the New York event. “I know it’s going to be a her latest fall runway show. collections of Kenzo, Yves Saint newsletter, a compilation of reviews tense night — and I don’t know how Laurent and Chloé when it was of spas, restaurants, baseball games much fun it’s going to be,” Farhi THE SKETCH ARTIST: Wolfgang Joop’s designed by Karl Lagerfeld are and film premieres. The position is a said. “When we were at the Golden fashion career may be temporarily included. Sotheby’s and Joop will temporary one, as he plans to begin Globes, David kept saying, ‘We’re sidelined by ongoing battles with the preview the exhibition with a post-graduate law studies in not going to win, we’re going to lose’ company that bought his name, but benefit for the American November. DIAZ PHOTO BY MICHAEL OWEN BAKER/LADN/WIREIMAGE.COM; SPELLING PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA/WIREIMAGE.COM DONATO BY PHOTO BAKER/LADN/WIREIMAGE.COM;SPELLING OWEN MICHAEL BY PHOTO DIAZ PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER; MODEL: THAIS/SUPREME; HAIR BY CHRYSTOPH MARTEN FOR VIDAL SASSOON SALONS; MAKEUP BY ANNIE ING FOR SALLY HARLOR; HOLLAND AND HOLLAND SOCKS; BDG SHOES; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN WWD thegreat thegreat escape escape and skirtJuicyCouture’s cottonveloursweater. Wal-Mart andKmart.Here,EasySpirit’s cotton corduroy jacket national chainssuchasJ.C. Penney andKohl’smass giants major componentofspecialty storeslike Gap andOldNavyto casual clothesthancareeroutfits. Casualapparelhasbecomea sportswear andamajorityof themsaidtheynowbuymore American womenspentmorethan$26billiononcasual looks arebecomingastapleinmanycollections.Last year, fall seasondesignersaredressingthepart,ascasualweekender YORK —Relax.That’s thekey tohealthyliving, and this NEW and skirtJuicyCouture’s cottonveloursweater. Wal-Mart andKmart.Here,EasySpirit’s cotton corduroy jacket national chainssuchasJ.C. Penney andKohl’smass giants major componentofspecialty storeslike Gap andOldNavyto casual clothesthancareeroutfits. Casualapparelhasbecomea sportswear andamajorityof themsaidtheynowbuymore American womenspentmorethan$26billiononcasual looks arebecomingastapleinmanycollections.Last year, fall seasondesignersaredressingthepart,ascasualweekender YORK —Relax.That’s thekey tohealthyliving, and this NEW Casual In Depth In Casual Casual In Depth In Casual Pages 9-19 Pages Pages 9-19 Pages 10

CASUAL IN DEPTH

Table 1 stat snapshot Through the Years Spending on Casual Apparel, by Age Group By Scott Malone While women’s spending may be constrained by the soft economy, they’re running in droves to the AGE GROUP 2002 SPENDING NEW YORK — Relax, take it easy, don’t be so stiff. mass merchants. The leading channel for casual At least when it comes to their clothing choices, sportswear purchases last year was specialty stores, WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 19, 2003 WWD, WEDNESDAY, casual appears to be the way to go for many U.S. which accounted for 28 percent of spending on the 13-18 $3.4 billion women today. category. Discount stores came in second, with 19 American women spent over $26 billion last year on percent market share. (See Table 2.) 19-24 $2.8 billion casual sportswear, by one estimate, and surveys of their The strength of the specialty channel reflects the attitudes related to clothing show that they’ve become success of chains like Chico’s in attracting middle- 25-34 $4.0 billion increasingly interested in wearing relaxed looks — or aged women shoppers with more flattering fits and avoiding dressed-up ones — over the past decade. realistic designs, Spar suggested. 35-49 $7.2 billion STS Market Research, based in Cambridge, Mass., The sheer size of the individual mass merchants found through polling that U.S. females aged 13 and and national chains made them dominant in the cate- 50-64 $5.5 billion up last year spent $26.2 billion on casual clothing, in- gory, though. The top outlet for casual sportswear cluding jeans, casual pants, knit and woven shirts, was Wal-Mart Stores, which drew $2.5 billion of 65 and older $3.2 billion sweaters, athleticwear and shorts. That translated to women’s spending. Old Navy ranked fifth, pulling in about $228.82 a person. $800 million on the category. (See Table 3.) TOTAL $26.2 billion The total U.S. population of females aged 13 and up Old Navy, however, was the leading brand for was 117.9 million as of 2000, according to the U.S. women’s casual sportswear, according to STS, with 3 SOURCE: STS MARKET RESEARCH, CAMBRIDGE, MASS. Census Bureau. percent market share. Gap came in second, and The STS numbers showed that casual sportswear Levi’s, Liz Claiborne and Tommy Hilfiger rounded sales in 2002 were flat with prior-year levels, reflect- out the top five. For casual pants, the top three Table 2 ing the soft U.S. economy. brands were Liz Claiborne, Dockers and Gap, accord- The only group of women that increased spending ing to STS. It said the top brands for shirts and Something Special on casual sportswear last year was aged 50 to 64, who sweaters were Old Navy, Liz Claiborne and Gap. For spent $5.5 billion on the category, up from $4.8 billion athleticwear, they were Hanes, Nike and Old Navy. Women’s 2002 Casual Sportswear Spending, by Channel in 2001. Their 2002 spending represented 21 percent Women devoted the largest chunk of their casual of all spending on the category. In 2000, women in that sportswear budget to shirts, on which they spent CHANNEL MARKET SHARE age group represented 18.3 percent of the U.S. popula- $77.26 last year, according to STS. Jeans came in sec- tion of women aged 13 and up. ond, with an average outlay of Teen girls cut their spending The recession has $71.42. (See Table 4.) Specialty stores 28 percent to $3.4 billion from $3.7 billion. When women go shopping, Their outlay represented 13 per- “constrained this limited they have casual occasions on Discount stores 19 percent cent of all spending on the cate- their minds, regardless of what gory, while they had represent- deep pocket the teens it is they’re buying. According to Department stores 14 percent ed about 10 percent of the popu- Cotton Inc., women aged 16 to lation in 2000. seem to have. 55 last year devoted 58.3 per- National chains 13 percent Art Spar, president of STS, cent of their clothing budgets to said that marked a major shift — Art Spar, STS Market” Research garments primarily intended for Off-price retailers 6 percent in the market. casualwear. Business-casual “If we were talking about 2001, I would have been garments represented another 20.3 percent of their Direct mail 6 percent saying the big dollars were coming out of the youth spending. Last year, the share of women’s apparel market and teen market,” he said. spending on clothing intended for purposes other than Factory outlets 2 percent Two factors drove the shift, Spar suggested. One casual occasion shrank. (See Table 5.) was the lack of must-have items drawing teens into the Women own plenty of casual clothing — 56 percent NOTE: FOR FEMALES AGED 13 AND UP. SOURCE: STS MARKET RESEARCH, CAMBRIDGE, MASS. stores last year, as low-rise jeans and midriff-bearing of women surveyed by Cotton Inc.’s Lifestyle Monitor tops did the prior year. A second, and perhaps more said they owned more casual clothing than work Table 3 important, factor was the softening economy. clothing, while 35 percent said they had more work “The recession has constrained this limited deep clothing. But that doesn’t stop them from wanting pocket the teens seem to have, and whether they’re more: Asked if they were more likely to buy a new Size Still Matters poor on their own or their parents are contributing outfit for a vacation or for a business meeting, 64 per- Leading Outlets for Women’s Casual Sportswear, 2002 by forcing them to buy more practical clothing in line cent told Cotton they’d buy a vacation outfit, while 27 with their family’s budget, the fact is they’re not percent said they would choose new work clothes. (A spending as much,” he said. free-spending 5 percent said they’d get both.) CHAIN SALES Older women, he suggested, are spending more to The growth in enthusiasm for casual apparel also spiff up their work wardrobes, opting for casual reflects the overall increased casualization of the pants and tops for that purpose. American lifestyle. According to the Cotton Inc. poll, Wal-Mart $2.5 billion It was also clear that the economic slowdown has 68 percent of women last year said they prefer to go crimped the spending of lower-income women more places where they wear jeans. That’s up from 63 per- J.C. Penney $1.5 billion so than their higher-income counterparts. In house- cent who expressed that preference in 1994. holds with income under $39,900, women cut their out- Many consumers opt to wear casual apparel be- Kmart $1.1 billion lay on casual sportswear to $8.7 billion, down 6.5 per- cause it feels more comfortable to them. Fifty-one per- cent from $9.3 million in 2001. Women in households cent of respondents to Cotton’s 2002 survey said they’d Kohl’s $1.0 billion earning $70,000 and above spent $9 billion, up 7.1 per- opt for more comfortable, rather than better-looking, cent from $8.4 billion. clothes for a night out on the town. That’s a switch Old Navy $800 million In between those two groups, spending remained from 1994, when 59 percent opted for the better-look- flat at $8.5 billion. ing clothes at the expense of comfort. NOTE: FOR FEMALES AGED 13 AND UP. SOURCE: STS MARKET RESEARCH, CAMBRIDGE, MASS.

Table 5 Table 4 Why They Buy What’s in the Bags Women’s Total Apparel Spending, by Intended Use, 2001-2002 Women’s Spending on Casual Sportswear, by Category, 2002

INTENDED USE SHARE OF SPENDING, 2002 SHARE OF SPENDING, 2001 CATEGORY AVERAGE SPENDING

Casual 58.3 percent 53.3 percent Shirts $77.26 Business casual 20.3 percent 21.9 percent Jeans $71.42 Special or formal event 9.0 percent 9.3 percent Sweaters $64.51 School 4.3 percent 6.2 percent Athleticwear $54.67 Active sport 4.1 percent 4.4 percent Casual pants $52.39 Business formal 3.9 percent 4.8 percent Shorts $36.76 NOTE: FOR WOMEN AGED 16 TO 55. SOURCE: COTTON INC. NOTE: FOR FEMALES AGED 13 AND UP. SOURCE: STS MARKET RESEARCH, CAMBRIDGE, MASS.

12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 19, 2003 rnsbidalfs yle lifest a build brands ietls ae hne teedul wee the where Our tremendously level. changed cultural the have at lifestyles happening what’s it’s casual but in done is business wear. our The whole casual lifestyle is not just about a trend, of majority “The ing: Warren,say- + agreed, White maker knitwear to-bridge wardrobe.” versatile a needs “She said. Dolce children,” grand- younger or children older her with around ning arena. better the in operating annually million $10 to million $8 about of sales year.has last company top The peasant the of popularity the hence anymore, jeans and Contrepoint, said women don’t just want to wear T-shirts nation. the gripping worries terrorism and war the given jacket,” hooded your in cocoon like a in it’s back you’re maybe so store, the of out blowing is hooded a ple are being drawn to. Comfort is have a big factor. Anything you peo- what and is emotionally,casual But outfit. blouse new whole or sweater your change you “Withwork, said. he lifestyle,” their into fit that things the looking newest and also offering comfort, which is key. sweatshirts and hooded pants cargo zippered silk like items playful with casual business is what’s looking the hottest — few a was ago.” years it what not it’s and category some you a chance to be more individual. It’s an awe- gives it and yourself of extension endwear,an week- It’s profession. by dress people to because used workplace the with we do to nothing has way It dress. the is which cookie-cutter, look individuality.not certain It’s a to you gives it and want volume, people million way the $30 is “Casual its said: of percent represents 30 business about casual whose Benard, it.” with things different do can’tshe if item an doesn’ton $25 even spend to want customer “Our said. Madonna dressy and way,”way casual a in it use to how her show we jacket, fabulous a sees customer the fall. for offerings casual its expanding is News presidentGeralynnMadonnasaidthecompany look. the complete to shoes comfortable T-shirtsand printed coats, barn suede washable like easy,clothes featuring relaxed — “Lifestyle” catalogs of variety work. outside life for a options offering all — Contrepoint and Dockers Cuff, French Ritchie, Lynn DKNY, City Silk, August Warren,+ White Olsen, TommySigrid and to Hilfiger Bahama Tommy Group, major Apparel Harbor,Rousso Sag from everyone with York,New Jones Claiborne, Liz like firms and brands days these mantra the is “lifestyle” but work, of outside life and time sonal in arena. casual slowdown the a of sign no there’s up, dressed more tle — YORK NEW Larson Kristin By Barbara Benenson Warren, co-founder of the better- the of Warren, co-founder Benenson Barbara “This Baby Boomer customer is multitasking and run- at marketing and sales of director Dolce, Christina casual selecting they’re buying, are people “When the said Holtzman arena, sportswear the In Harvé of president Holtzman, Bernard As “We’re reallybasedonversatilityandwhen Newport retailer direct hot, so is casual Because its of one calls Nordstrom as such retailers Even per- on emphasis increased an to due it’s Maybe AULI DEPTH IN CASUAL While the business world is getting a lit- a getting is world business the While wearing casual clothes like linen shirts, relaxed pants, relaxed shirts, linen like clothes casual wearing campaign features natural shots of couples on the beach relaxedside. casual, more a showed also paigns up.” it give to hard it’s range, this have you once and choice of spectrum good a is there is casual to casual relaxed most casual to refined casual. from The good thing go about that it in But elements go. are to there way the was moments real show to paign cam- Wea are. thought they what than anything be to aspiring not They’re lives. their to relate can tomers bers. “Thisisareal-lifesituation,”shesaid.“Ourcus- model Vendela withherrealfriendsandfamilymem- relaxed,sent avery casualmessagebyphotographing today.”live people how just it’s and everywhere It’s now. component casual a has line say apparel “I’d every said. Sullivan refined,” more casual, bit a dress is to which through way the all ultra-weekend components. casual have Buchman Dana and Tracy Ellen lines bridge even while Co., & Liz and Jeans Lizwear Lizsport, are Its year.brands casual last main sales in billion $3.72 its of chunk icant signif- a up taking business, lucrative extremely an as category casual the views company the said Sullivan year.”a months 12 also but week, a days seven her for work to has It tops. knit and shirts woven rics, fab- stretch dressy leisure, active velour to dressing about versatility, andyoucanhaveanythingfromknit is product The feel. to want they how and dress live, said. Pechand lifestyle is really 24-seven. It’s how people want to purchase,” Casual dressing. for weekend about longer no is driver “Casual one number the casual. toward pointing are directions all and years have changedthewaytheydressoverlastcoupleof consumers said YorkSpirit, New Easy Jones and Sport Apparel Group overseeing the casual lifestyle brands of diminishing.” just is attire formal for demand Shot in the Caribbean island of Mustique, the Tommy cam- ad spring Hilfiger’s Tommy and DKNY City it campaign, advertising spring company’s Forthe “We look at casual as ranging from really relaxed to Trudy president vice executive Claiborne Liz that’s and comfort on emphasis an been “There’s Jones at president group Pech, Heather Likewise, Contrepoint featuring a Nordstrom tunic top. A recent Lifestyle catalog volume. company’s of the 30 percent represents business casual Benard’s Harvé

▲ situations. fun inreal-life friends having family and along withher model Vendela by showing casual message a relaxed, campaign sent spring ad Liz Claiborne’s authentic feel. clothes andwasintendedtoevoke areal, campaign wasfilledwithlotsofcasual Shot inMustique,Tommy spring Hilfiger’s ior market and interpret them for this customer.”this for them interpret and market ior we take the big trends from the designer market and jun- But fit. missy right the within it getting is concern main The new. and different something for looking is tomer cus- their saying is “Everyone said. Datwani updated line,” our we so market, moderate the into filter would Compagnie, SoHo 2003. in goal of sales million $3 a hit to expects president vice Datwani, Amit and Chico’s, which offer stylish options for casualwear, new offer we days, buy,”to added. new he something product, 30 every and, markdowns low ing, influences. tropical with clothes casual erate, quarter of $9 million, Sitomer said. The formula: mod- first year’s last with compared million, $41 to million difference.” big a made have fixtures the and signage the But stores. the to according shop, soft a it call you’d — place into marketing of lot a put “Wesaid. Sitomer doors,” the within increased we’ve oldwo paot, n syih eor active- velour stylish sweatshirts. hoodie and pants leisure and pants; peacoats, flat-front and boiled-wool jackets velvet detailing; inine fem- with jackets corduroy as such weekend, through day from go could that options of variety a with tion most the get to looking wardrobe. are their of out options people where a in world important was products multiuse and purpose multi- depicting images featuring said Ricca Ninette president Company pants. cargo and jackets zip-front trenchcoat, white a with tank ribbed a like looks tile versa- wearing campaign, its for Manhattan of streets together.”be should it like looks all just It collection. spring the inspired Mustique how and gy between the clothes, the location and Tommy’s vision, paign looksrealandauthentic,“developsthesyner- dent ofmarketingatTommy saidthecam- HilfigerUSA, presi- Connolly,Peter pants. drawstring and miniskirts “We thought that more fashionable casual sportswear Zara like retailers better-priced from cue Takinga sell- good in reflects it value, give do truly you “When First-quarter sales this year are expected to hit $40 “She’s anagelesscustomer, andforher, everything direc- this in continue will company the fall, For the on girl a of shots several showed DKNY City year has far exceeded sales projections. exceededsales far last has year launched that line sportswear casual the flat-front and cotton looks $16.50. in to $12.50 cargo for wholesaling all pants, items as feature such will stretch, line The mil- lion. $5 at projections first-year with million, population.” whole the for it from address doesn’t that ordering but Sundance, or they’re J.Crew lifestyle now casual for Maybe options clothing. of lot yet a women have dowdy don’t not are who Boomers Baby of lot to a are “There said: fall, this planned retail at launch is SoHo which RQT, of director and designer and head Joe division Gorman, Dorene Compagnie. Caribbean Requirements, of division RQT,a include scene lifestyle casual casual of feel versatility.”and multifunction and the having “The is said. thing Ricca important lifestyle,” her on depends Te agn, hy ely ae ak and back came really they margins, “The said Sitomer Ken principal Joe Caribbean $2 of expectations first-season has Gorman Meanwhile, newer and updated brands on the

14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 19, 2003 spandex corduroypants. and blackcotton polyester velourjacket, jacket; graycottonand blackleather City DKNY’s AULI DEPTH IN CASUAL t the great escape great the enjoy thegreatoutdoors—or atleastdressthepart.Thisfall,casualdesignersarefocusing onthe enjoy thegreatoutdoors—or atleastdressthepart.Thisfall,casualdesignersarefocusing onthe weekender witheasysilhouettesthatarefashionable aswellfunctional:apairofkhakipants weekender witheasysilhouettesthatarefashionable aswellfunctional:apairofkhakipants h paired withalittlebomberjacket, cashmerethermal tops, fake shearlingjackets andcorduroy paired withalittlebomberjacket, cashmerethermaltops, fake shearlingjackets andcorduroy NEW YORK —As leavesstartfallingandtemperaturesbegintodrop,hang upyoursuitand NEW YORK —As leavesstartfallingandtemperaturesbegintodrop,hang upyoursuitand e skirts —ruggedlooksthatwork bothoncitystreetsandcountryroads. skirts —ruggedlooksthatwork bothoncitystreetsandcountryroads.

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PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER; MODELS: CAROLINE AND THAIS, BOTH FOR SUPREME; HAIR B HAIR SUPREME; FOR BOTH THAIS, AND CAROLINE MODELS: TURNER; DAVID BY PHOTOS BOBBI QUEEN BOBBI

WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 19, 2003 BY STYLED CASSEL; MATTHEW ASSISTANT: FASHION HARLOR; SALLY FOR ING ANNIE BY MAKEUP SALONS; SASSOON VIDAL FOR MARTEN CHRYSTOPH Y 15 nylon and Lycra So Blue’s gray and top and cashmere, by Sigrid Olsen and white polyester and white polyester spandex miniskirt by spandex FAL’s ivory cashmere FAL’s Holland and Holland. acrylic jacket fake-fur Jeffrey Grübb. Boots by acrylic sweater. sweater. and wool blouse and suede vest, Holland and Holland hat. tan polyester Benard’s dark lavender floral brown corduroy Caribbean Joe’s pants and Harvé and spandex pants. and spandex and spandex pants. and spandex RQT’s brown PVC jacket RQT’s brown PVC jacket and tan cotton, polyester and tan cotton, polyester Liz Wear Jeans’ olive cotton Liz Wear twill bomber with fake-fur trim, Juicy Couture’s brown cotton velour top, Vintage Studio’s pink cotton voile blouse and Harvé Benard’s khaki cotton pants. Liz Wear Jeans’ olive cotton Liz Wear twill bomber with fake-fur trim, Juicy Couture’s brown cotton velour top, Vintage Studio’s pink cotton voile blouse and Harvé Benard’s khaki cotton pants. Tommy Bahama’s Tommy tan cotton stretch maroon jacket, cotton and polyacrylic sweater and silk and cotton Tommy T-shirt; Hilfiger’s blue cotton denim pants. shoes. Birkenstock Tommy Bahama’s Tommy tan cotton stretch maroon jacket, cotton and polyacrylic sweater and silk and cotton Tommy T-shirt; Hilfiger’s blue cotton denim pants. shoes. Birkenstock ▲ ▲ 16

CASUAL IN DEPTH

staying on the message A look from Gap, a casual pioneer. By Jennifer Weitzman lion in the year-ago period. Others include Eileen Fisher, Sales for the quarter surged 13.7 Express, Abercrombie & Fitch, NEW YORK — Casual can be a percent to $465 billion and com- Banana Republic, Kenneth Cole cash cow for those specialty parable sales increased 8 per- and J. Crew. stores that understand its con- cent, with all divisions — Gap, Another specialty store cited sumer draw and stick to it. Old Navy and Banana Republic as capturing the adulation of WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 19, 2003 WWD, WEDNESDAY, After all, it’s Gap that is cred- — in positive terrain. the casual customer through its ited with helping to instigate the “The whole concept of casu- understanding of what product casual revolution in the Nine- al clothes has changed dramati- is appropriate for its targeted ties with its stores aimed and cally,” a Gap spokeswoman customer and even, it could be merchandised directly at the said. “Where many people used said, anticipating what the next casualization of America. The to think of casual clothes as wave could be, is Fort Myers, San Francisco-based retailer, strictly weekendwear, today, Fla.-based Chico’s FAS. founded in 1969 as a purveyor of great-quality, stylish casual Chico’s, which sells casual, jeans, has captured huge market clothes are an everyday need comfortable clothing and acces- share by showcasing casual for most consumers. Dressing sories to Baby Boomer women, looks like denim and khakis has become much more flexi- has enjoyed strong and consis- with its signature franchise and ble, and customers are looking tent sales and profits over the Banana Republic and Old Navy for versatile items that can be past several years. While most sister chains. worn a variety of ways.” specialty stores said war wor- Specialty stores own 28 per- Marshall Cohen, president of ries and snowstorms have given cent of the $26.2 billion casual Port Washington, N.Y.-based mar- a pause to their sales, Chico’s sector, according to STS Market ket researcher NPDFashionworld, said its spring sales of tank tops, Research of Cambridge, Mass., said while Gap is heading in the linen shirts and T-shirts are Express with Old Navy and Gap ranking right direction, it is still offering T- running on or above plan. has as the top two casual brands shirts and fleece sweatshirts that “There is no question that intensified nationwide, according to STS. are too basic and junior-like. In response to the brand is incred- its casual Gap suffered mightily for 2 addition, he said Gap is now com- ibly positive,” Pat Murphy, gen- 1/2 years when it walked away peting in a more competitive world eral merchandise manager, offering. from its roots and became too that offers similar products and in said recently on a earnings con- trendy. Recently, Gap reversed some instances, like at Limited ference call. Lazard Frères, said, “Chico’s is Ralph Lauren for having suc- course and its fortunes by going Brand’s Express, at 25 to 30 per- In its fourth quarter, Chico’s doing a great job with an older cess in luring in customers, back to basics, reporting its sec- cent less. net income soared 53.3 percent demographic especially tuned adding: “They are doing well at ond straight increase in quar- Cohen said leaders in casual to $15 million, with sales jump- into casual and comfort, the two lifestyle imaging.” terly earnings and a full year of specialty retailing include Gap, ing 36.4 percent to $138.3 mil- most important trends in the While many predicted the profits. For the fourth quarter Old Navy and Ann Taylor. He also lion. Driven by greater traffic next 10 years.” women’s marketplace was mov- ended Feb. 1, income climbed to said Victoria’s Secret is increas- and transactions, comp-store At Express, Paul Raffin, exec- ing away from casualwear, the $248.7 million, reversing an ing its share because of the move- sales rose 11 percent. utive vice president of merch- tailored trend has yet to emerge unprecedented loss of $34.2 mil- ment to innerwear as outerwear. Todd Slater, an analyst with andising, said, “We recently as forcefully as expected, and intensified our casual offering, consumers are left with a lot of including denim and all the options. components with it, like knits Talbots and Ann Taylor, and woven tops.” often described as suit destina- He said this year, two big tion specialty retailers, have themes at Express are military taken it down a notch to comfort and surf, based on leading clothing. When was the brands like Juicy Couture, but NPDFashionworld’s Cohen developed for its customers. said as Ann Taylor tries to last time you took Raffin said Express will open an regain its suit customer, that in-store shop concept next week core shopper now wants com- a good look at your that will have “clothes for the fort and casual. sport of seduction,” like cropped “AT and Talbots are doing supply chain? pants, mini T-shirts with pockets, the right thing by getting com- terry hoodies and knit bra tanks. fortable,” he said. “That is how Raffin said Express’ casual America is dressing and what emphasis, including jeans, has people want to buy.” He said grown to 50 percent of the mix, Ann Taylor’s merchandise mix up from 35 percent several is about half casual and Talbots years ago. is “clearly getting into the casu- Jennifer Black, a retail ana- al mode.” A spokeswoman for lyst with Wells Fargo, cited Gap Talbots said the firm has not and Old Navy as destination had a big shift toward casual, stores for casual clothing. She but has moved somewhere also noted Lucky Brands, between career and casual. Nordstrom, Chico’s, J. Jill and “People are looking for smaller stores like White House options to dress either up or Black Market, Fatiques and down, so the twinset has replaced Fresh Produce as other leaders a jacket, and [is] used for week- in casualwear. end or [to] go to work,” she said. “Gap and Old Navy are tak- Talbots’ new advertising ing back market share they lost campaign focused on its more- from some of the big-box play- comfortable, relaxed-fitting ers,” Black said. “They are easi- pieces, as seen in its current ad End-to-end supply chain solutions from Waitex. er to shop and its focus on cus- showing a woman in a safari- tomer service is only going to style suit, a look that exempli- With over 2 million square feet of modern distribution facilities make customers more loyal.” fied career casual when it in NY, NJ and LA, and more than 800 service specialists, Steve Skinner, a partner at emerged in the Nineties. Waitex can make sure every link of your end-to-end supply Accenture’s retail industry group, “Talbots has increased its chain is solid— from warehousing distribution to Internet mail- said while he does not see any mix of casual and is benefitting one retailer as increasing its mar- from it. It has positioned itself order fulfillment. And now we can even offer you the latest IT ket share, a few, notably Gap, are in front of this trend,” said solutions including remote access, EDI and order processing. taking back “mind share” by rein- Slater of Lazard Frères. So why not link all your supply chain needs together with venting themselves. However, Cohen said the Waitex? We'll make sure your supply chain is unbreakable. He said he credits specialty push toward casual could be an To learn more about how Waitex can help your business stores as doing a good job at Achilles’ heel for retailers. He promoting the casual side of said the last two big trends — or to arrange a free assessment of your company just contact their business as they seize on khakis and warmup suits — are Candice or Leslie. the opportunity handed to them retrends, sell at lower prices by department stores advertis- and are add-on items that do ing their price and value pro- not spark whole wardrobe pur- P:: 212.764.8989 F: 212.764.9332 WAITEX.COM [email protected] motions. He noted Gap, Aber- chases like tailored or classic 525 7TH AVENUE, 2ND FLR. NEW YORK, NY 10018 crombie & Fitch, Victoria’s styling that requires the right Secret, Kenneth Cole and pants, jacket and sweater. 17 WWD, WEDNESDAY,WWD, 2003 19, MARCH mass stores push active-casual hybrid By Katherine Bowers Pursuing its “big brands, small prices” End yoga pants and French terry strategy, Mervyn’s stocks Nike, Reebok, separates, which were catalog bestsellers. Mervyn’s …and BOSTON — Two years ago, when activewear Adidas, Jockey, Essential Gear by Vital, Drawstring shorts and Reebok’s side- focuses on Lotus buyer Roger Taylor joined J.C. Penney Co., yoga-inspired line Lotus and Cheetah, its stripe Raccula pants are flying out, the casual looks yoga the small section looked perpetually “like private label. The retailer will add to this spokeswoman said. from activewear separates. a clearance sale,” he recalled. Some 15 brand buffet for fall with Russell Athletic They’ll add active-casual pieces to the brands, such brands fought for space on eight racks, and Gloria Vanderbilt. Covington house brand, a mid-priced as this Jockey causing a jumble of fits, styles and colors. One of the reasons active-casual is so product range, in the fall. lavender loop It was turning in the worst performance in appealing is “it’s no longer so masculine The trend is “very positive,” said a terry set… the women’s department, but Penney’s as it was five years ago, when we were all spokeswoman. “It’s about apparel that you management had an inkling the category wearing basic sweatpants,” the Mervyn’s can lounge in, run errands in or work out in was due for a resurgence. spokeswoman said. “It’s about fun and comfortably because it moves with you.” “We knew elsewhere it was starting to casual, but at the same time, looking Kohl’s Department Stores, which be a hot-trending area and we needed to pulled together.” opened 28 stores in California on March cover it in a better way,” Taylor said. “We Sears, like most mass retailers, moved 7, is using active-casual merchandise as hired design teams and a sourcing team back into activewear in 2001. The store one of its main draws. The retailer added to focus on activewear and to go after a carries Reebok, Avia, Everlast and Classic 50 percent more styles in California doors younger customer. At the same time, we Elements, and has begun carrying Lands’ and racked the goods at store entrances. cut back from 15 brands to four.” The Plano, Tex.-based retailer’s timing was ideal, catching the active- casual trend on the upswing and meeting its customer with a clean, focused assortment. The presentation now consists of Adidas, New York Laundry and St. John’s Bay, a private label that is about 70 percent of the volume, according to Taylor. The department soared ahead of sales plan and the average of 12 fixtures per store will double to 20 to 25 for fall. As Penney’s case illustrates, laid- back wardrobing has become a hustling, bustling business. Mass retailers have developed new private label programs for active- oriented casual looks, adding groupings to long-standing house brands and, in Target’s case, recruiting major vendors to design exclusive collections. According to STS Market Research of Cambridge, Mass., discount stores and national chains account for 32 percent of the $26 billion casual sportswear market. While terry hoodies and drawstring pants are a dime a dozen these days, mass retailers aren’t planning to back off. They contend the trend fits with the national yen for ease, that it is perfect for a mass audience because it flatters a wide range of figures and ages and that it has enough fashion momentum to stay fresh. Mass retailers are paying attention to the look’s fashionable side: cargo pockets, satin trims, raw edges, snaps and motocross-style “kissing zippers” crops. Textured fabric like waffle and looped terry are among the updates expected in stores in coming months. The Freestyle by Danskin bodywear collection hit Target stores 12 months ago. Dispensing with its usual test strategy, the retailer opened all doors immediately and has boosted the stockkeeping unit count since, according to Danskin chief executive officer Carol Hochman. The collection, produced by New York-based Jacques Moret under license, is fashion-forward, with Asian-inspired embroidery and colors like rust, cognac and harvest gold. Spurred by strong sales of the cover- ups, Freestyle will expand to loungewear in April. This collection will push more sportswear-influenced styles, using fabrics such as corded velour, poodle sherpa and baby waffle. Activewear is “huge” for Kmart, said Kathy Douglas, who oversees women’s trend and product development for the Troy, Mich.-based retailer. “Active looks and influences can be seen in all of our brands — from Joe Boxer to Jaclyn Smith.” Although finances remain tight for the bankrupt retailer, the company believes enough in the category to invest heavily in promoting Joe Boxer lifestyle loungewear. Vibrant, high- energy TV commercials underscore that casualwear can have personality, not just be something mundane in which to sweat or snooze. Active-casual is “a segment Mervyn’s is looking to grow,” said a spokeswoman for the Hayward, Calif.-based chain. 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 19, 2003 ao trssra out spread stores major everybody,” sheadded. for is fashion “Casual lines. best-selling the among as Club Charter and INC labels private citing said, Guion cashmere, and sweats sexy “ath-leisure,” denim, as well as items, cargo and utilitarian for demand big a sees Macy’s West. Francisco-based San at rector di- fashion Guion, Durand said trend-oriented,” more lot a ing becom- is merchandise casual dressing well—andthatmeans they’re — anymore up ing aren’tdress- people that is now people jobhunting. and high rate unemployment the with returning, are trends structured more that evidence limited only there’s time, same the At stylized. more and sexier becoming It’s adapting. been has sportswear stay,casual to here apparently and decade last the of trend important thick. on it lay stores department and — assortment overall the to topping popular a casual sportswear is like jelly — the of department store business, then butter and bread the is — ANGELES LOS By Kristin Young AULI DEPTH IN CASUAL Department stores represent stores Department chain store department The see to starting we’re “What most the casualization With

Photograph by: Jonathan Fung If sportswear If and fresh.” young it’s and clubs the in up showing “It’s added. she look,” hip a of kind that’s it, with heels high wearing and vibe athletic looksupsidedown. turning been have teens Coast with stand-alonepotential.” something as even it, in lieves be- Bloomingdale’s like feels It spring. for must-have a — story cargo strong a with look the freshened have they “But said. Paper,Moreno Cloth,” & Denim and Mankind, All for Seven Joie, like lines denim with Leisure Illia and Low So D&G, vibe,” shesaid. contemporary,casual “cool, the to estate real prime cates Mankind andMissSixty. All for Seven Tail, Hard ing featur- sportswear and denim of assortment strong a with departments, ready-to-wear core alongside casualwear ing merchandis- is Nordstrom said Trendsyndicate, firm search re- market Angeles Los for tor Market STS Research ofCambridge,Mass. to according market, sportswear casual the of billion $3.67 or percent 14 Sandy Richman, co-president Richman, Sandy active that up “Dressing West that added Moreno Juicy, hanging “They’re dedi- also Bloomingdale’s direc- fashion Moreno, Trish Mendocino F [email protected] York, New 1410 212-997-4737 a l l Broadway i n t NY 10018 NY o... minds of merchants, particular- merchants, of minds the on uppermost also is casual $12.99 topantsat$17.99. at hoodies from price in ranging suits track Vanderbiltvelour Gloria and $32 for pants out work- cropped Nike displaying prominently entrances, to close departments the positioned and stores WestCoast at tivewear ac- more percent 50 added has Kohl’s said Mansell Kevin President activewear. true and active street of sortment as- broader a with region the in stores 28 placed retailer based Wisc.- Menomonee, the fore be- preferences lifestyle nia’s Califor- Southern research to sportswear. casual with stocked heavily are nationally stores its though casual, about astute more came ness,” Richmansaid. busi- apparel the of zones all in force driving the be to ues contin- that business the of side ter casual. bet- at strong is Bloomingdale’s while well, especially porary contem- “status” the does Macy’s merchandise. casual on handle a having for Bloomingdale’s Westand Macy’s West, cited Directives consultants retail of #3103 In the mid-Atlantic region, mid-Atlantic the In Kohl’s for years three took It be- it expanded, Kohl’s As casual the definitely “It’s ymtyscto ag at.Seven’scargopantsincottondenim. cottoncargopants. Symmetry’s Vass USAandprivatelabel. Fisher, Joan Eileen Democracy, Dart, David are revenue gory’s cate- the of percent 80 for count ac- that brands Leading noted. Barnes jacket, cropped a with capri’s narrow to pants pull-on from silhouettes, of variety a in blends viscose cotton and denim linen, by driven spring, the in done is business annual gory’s were morecasual.” people other of lot a while top, striped black-and-white signer de- a and jeans designer white and belt Gucci a wore woman one and heat 105-degree in ter daugh- my with game softball a at was wear.I will another what from different totally is carpool or shopping go to wears man wo- one “What Group. Marcus Neiman of branch e-tail and log cata- the Direct, NM of manager merchandise general Barnes, Gerald said range,” broad a such is it because define to difficult most the of one is sportswear ness atBoscov’s. busi- apparel total of percent 20 represents wear,probably weekend related and shorts including casual, True Joe. Caribbean by sold look similar a feature does but Bahama, Tommy Bahamalook.” that about bullish very feel we Hawaiian-feeling, the and eral, gen- in tops tank and tanks bra “With skins. onion and looks peasant prints, in are trends top casual key that adding said, he twill,” and denim miniskirts…in on selling early some getting are we and mer sum- into spring for important said, fromfloodpantstocapris. Crystal bottoms,” length tive mer,“We alterna- see to continue sum- and spring for trends for As Sport, Hilfiger,Joe. Caribbean Poloand Liz Rafaella, Erika, based inReading, Pa. chain store department gional re- billion $1.1 the Boscov’s, at ready-to-wear of manager merchandise general and dent presi- vice senior Crystal, S. Thomas said clothes,” of kinds and aboutlight,lively, feel-good blue-collar crowd. the selling to comes it when ly bu totid o te cate- the of two-thirds About casual categories, the all “Of Tommy sell doesn’t Boscov’s very are skorts that “Wefeel brands casual key as cited He color about all is “Casual stay withit,”shesaid. to tend they comfortable, thing could settleintoastaple. it point which at Schrantz, said 2003, of quarter fourth into last should and 2002, ter quar- fourth and third started sual weekendwearbusiness. sents around70percentoftheca- repre- Relativity label private year.Its last over sales in cent per- 150 up is knits, lightweight more or FrenchTerry in pants drawstring and jackets zippered hooded two-piece includes which both divisions. over manager merchandise eral gen- Schrantz, Barb to cording ac- trend, hottest the is wear” “pseudo-athletic or wear,” “comfort Group, Store ment Depart- Inc.’s Saks of divisions younger inattitude.” little a be to attempting are markets All well. as market sual ca- the within big as that see we so ripstop, and nylon cotton twill, with contemporary in there out balance different a is there and while a quite for cycle denim a in been “Wehave said. Riley ley Brad- bottoms,” nondenim more of market contemporary the of New York. in Group Doneger at wear sports- for manager chandise mer- divisional Riley, Bradley Kathy to according fabrics, nondenim and denim suede, corduroy,in trims satin and pockets novelty with pants and pants cargo by led fall, and spring this sportswear casual will wanttolooklikethat.” everybody then it, wearing are kids the all if because rection, di- that in headed be may we strong so is stuff Couture Juicy this “But said. Barnes seen,” be to yet is groups age all to extend will that whether and started, getting just is business Couture, henoted. Juicy by sweats Frenchterry sexy by led catalog, and stores Neiman’s at strong on coming — With contributions from “Once consumers find some- find consumers “Once trend category comfort The category, knit-driven The At the Proffitt’s and McRae’s and Proffitt’s the At out movement big a is “There for buzzword the is Utility suit warm-up true “The are looks Active-inspired Holly Haber, Dallas, and David Moin, New York; Georgia Lee, Atlanta 19 WWD, WEDNESDAY,WWD, 2003 19, MARCH

jumping appeal to the more relaxed set. Hooded zip-front jackets and full-leg pants are among the offer- active gets cool ings geared for weekendwear, said Nancy on the Desrosiers, apparel product manager. NEW YORK — No longer quibbling about what Goods Manufacturers Association. “We decided to do it based on feedback from juicy trend defines an athlete, activewear firms are now wel- “There is a disproportionate number of women our bigger accounts,” Desrosiers said. “They said coming sports fans with more nonperformance in America who think they participate in an athletic there was a need for that in the market.” NEW YORK — Can clothes get more ca- products designed for their busy lives. lifestyle, even if it’s not an athletic one,” said Carol Later this month, Everlast is launching its junior sual than denim? For years, sneaker giants like Nike and Reebok Hochman, president and chief executive officer of boxing collection at 62 Mony, Jimmy Jazz and S&D For the junior and contemporary used to balk at the idea that their clothes would be Danskin. “A tremendous part of the American pub- stores. A boxing robe-inspired wrap dress, a T-shirt markets, the answer is yes. For teens, worn by fashion types, but now they see it’s not lic wears these clothes as casual attire.” embellished with rhinestones of boxing gloves and jeans are the school uniform, but in a such a bad thing. Puma and other Seventies pow- Outfitting nonathletic types is “huge” to a hooded jacket are among the offerings. culture where comfort is key, velour and erhouses are making a comeback based on their Danskin’s business, she said. In these trying fi- Everlast will stage a fashion show in May and terry sweats are fast making their way leisure looks. This month, Ellesse, a skiwear and nancial times, activewear prices are generally plans to host an in-store event complete with a into the classroom. tenniswear label, relaunched its apparel in the more affordable than sportswear and ready-to- boxing ring in Mony’s 125th Street store in “It’s casual, but not all at the same U.S. with nonathletic types like Urban Outfitters. wear in department stores, and that is a selling Manhattan. The company decided to develop time,” said Jane Buckingham, presi- So bid adieu to the stereotype that used to point with shoppers. Many nonathletic women this group since the junior and contemporary dent of Youth Intelligence, a market re- limit the bulk of activewear sales to sporting are buying the brand’s performance-oriented O2 markets are looking for active-inspired pieces. search and consulting firm focusing on goods stores and athletic specialty shops. After line for casual purposes. “Girls want to look active, as well as hip,” Generations X and Y. “It still looks like all, 82 percent of all athletic purchases are not In July, New Balance will ship two new said Nicole Torres, senior account executive. a pulled together look without trying used for exercise, according to the Sporting groups, Seasonal Basics and Sport Comfort, to — Rosemary Feitelberg too hard. I really think it has to do with

Worth getting into

Supima, the world’s most luxurious cotton, is found only in leading brands of apparel and Jennifer Lopez in a JLo velour suit. home fashions. Supima-branded products the whole anti-styled look that’s so have all the desirable characteristics of cotton popular right now. We are also seeing a plus superior strength, softness and a brilliant lot of celebrities wearing the velours, which has a lot of appeal to teens.” lustre. Designers and manufacturers who One of the first companies to make demand the best insist on Supima fabrics. the velour track suit popular was the Los Visit www.supimacotton.org to find out about Angeles-based Juicy Couture, which was purchased Tuesday by Liz Claiborne Inc. becoming a Supima licensee. When designers-owners Pamela Skaist- Levy and Gela Nash-Taylor started the company six years ago, they made it their mission to create comfortable, col- orful and sexy clothes. Since the launch, the brand has ® made a name for itself, first on the West Coast and now in the East, mostly by in- troducing it to various celebrities like Britney Spears, Jennifer Lopez and Madonna.“Celebrities are always sent so many clothes and we see so many of them wearing Juicy,” Skaist-Levy said. “They call us now for the product.” Skaist-Levy said she believes the appeal of the Juicy suit is that it is the ultimate in casual luxury. It’s fitted to the body and as comfortable as wear- ing pajamas, she said. According to Denise Seegal, president and chief executive officer of JLo by Jennifer Lopez, velour track suits account for 40 percent of the business, partly be- cause Lopez is constantly photographed wearing them and partly because the ca- sual lifestyle is more acceptable. “Casualization is fashion today, it’s the dress code for the workplace and since working out has become so impor- tant it’s only natural that athletic looks are a growing trend,” Seegal stated. While the velour track suit trend is so popular, Seegal said she sees the future of casualwear leaning toward alternative sports-inspired looks. “The surf trend started on the West Coast and now it’s moving East with some snowboarding-in- spiration on loose fitting clothes that are easy to move in,” she said. “Surf is the most casual: a bikini top with a denim jacket, skirt and flip-flops.” Dick Cantrell, president of the Los Angeles-based Hard Tail, said, “There is a fashion element to these clothes. They are more than just your basic workout wear. They are made in an array of colors and fabrics and this wasn’t done in the past.” — Julee Greenberg 20 Marketing An Oft-Forgotten Customer WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 19, 2003 WWD, WEDNESDAY,

The jury’s out on the message and medium most effective in reaching African-American women: Portraying a black model in a general-market magazine, like H&M (InStyle, April); Levi’s Type One and Nike (Teen Vogue, April); showing white models in a targeted title, as has dollhouse (Vibe, April), or opting for black models in an African-American-aimed magazine, such as Wal-Mart’s take on “diva-tude” (Essence, April). By Valerie Seckler propensity to spend a bigger share of their for fear of alienating their core cus- more brand-name apparel than American discretionary dollars on apparel than tomer,” Cohen said. women overall. Cambridge, Mass.-based NEW YORK — Apparel marketers are their white counterparts is not widely Beyond that bias, there is simply a STS Research found 63 percent, or $3.8 taking some steps to boost their appeal to known in fashion circles. As Yvette Moyo, broader perception that African-American billion, of the $6 billion worth of casual African Americans — but they’re still be- president of Marketing Opportunities in women comprise a niche audience that’s sportswear bought by African-American hind the curve, compared with such in- Business and Entertainment, a Chicago- “nice to have,” said Donald P. Ziccardi, teens and women last year bore national dustries as automotive, electronics, fi- based manager of events for urban mar- chief executive officer at Ziccardi or designer brand names. That share rep- nancial services and personal care. keters, noted, “Urban hip-hop brands such Partners, Frierson, Mee Inc. — but apparel resents a hefty 8 basis points more than Several dynamics are feeding the prob- as Baby Phat, Sean John, and Rocawear players also think “no special marketing the 55 percent, or $17.9 billion, of the lem: African Americans are spending a are more willing to invest money to appeal effort” is needed to reach the group. “Most $32.8 billion worth of national and de- smaller share of wallet on apparel — even to African Americans because they know fashion brand marketers believe their signer brand casual sportswear bought by though it’s still more than the broader it’s an undervalued market. African- message will reach African-American the rest of the country’s teens and adults. U.S. populace; African Americans are a American women spend more of their dis- women through general women’s publica- That brand bias starts early among diverse market and targeting any segment cretionary income on apparel for them- tions,” related Ziccardi, whose clients in- African Americans: Youth-market re- too narrowly is liable to alienate the larg- selves than other groups.” clude Ellen Tracy, YM, Fortunoff’s and searcher Zandl Group found 40 percent er group, and apparel brand marketers Indeed, from September 2001 through Midori. “I don’t think we’ll see a change in of African-American females ages 13-24 tend to see their labels as portraying a October 2002, African-American women, the foreseeable future.” mention brand names when asked about singular image — and are loathe to stray who account for 13 percent of American Nevertheless, observers maintained their favorite clothes. In the past 12 for fear of alienating their core customer. women ages 18 and up, spent $4 billion on some progress has been made in the past months, the most popular brands among In contrast, retailers including Macy’s, apparel, or 0.96 percent of their median year or so. female African-American teens and young adults, according to Zandl Group, APPAREL SPENDING BY AFRICAN-AMERICAN WOMEN: Fall 2002 vs. Fall 2001 were Polo, followed by Tommy Hilfiger (especially in the Midwest and South), Fubu, Ralph Lauren, Rocawear and Sean Demographic WOMEN 18 AND UP AFRICAN-AMERICANS CAUCASIANS John. For jeans, they preferred Express, Fall ‘02 Fall ‘01 % Change Fall ‘02 Fall ‘01 % Change Fall ‘02 Fall ‘01 % Change then Gap, LEI, Mudd and Polo. And the group’s favorite apparel stores were Gap, U.S. Audience 106.7M 105.6M +1% 13.5M 13.1M +3% 87.9M 88M -.1% followed by Lerner New York, Dillard’s, Median Annual HH Income $47,039 $45,077 +4% $31,157 $28,779 +8% $49,097 $47,588 +3% Old Navy, Express, Target and Filene’s. The slowly rising profile of apparel Apparel Spending, Last 12 Months $37.9B $38.1B -.5% $4B $3.8B +5% $32.1B $32.7B -2% ads aimed at African-American women Average Spending Per Person $355.33 $360.93 -2% $298.22 $290.50 +3% $365.49 $371.62 -1.6% has prompted some to question the rela- Share of Median HH Income Spent on Apparel .76% .80% -.5% .96% 1.01% -.495% .74% .78% -.51% tive importance of using African- American models and the choice of the SOURCE: MEDIAMARK RESEARCH INC., FALL 2002 + 2001 STUDIES, WEIGHTED BY POPULATION advertising medium itself. For Essence fashion director Macklin, there’s too H&M, Wal-Mart, Target, Kmart, Sears and annual household income, according to For one thing, apparel marketers tar- much emphasis placed on celebrities, Marshalls were credited by marketing ex- Mediamark Research Inc. Those expendi- geting African-American women are no athletes and musicians, in marketing to ecutives for mounting a more meaningful tures marked an increase of 5 percent longer attempting to address the entire African-American consumers. “We can’t appeal to African-American apparel shop- over spending of $3.8 billion in the prior- group in a single campaign. Instead, negate the influence music has on fash- pers than have general-market fashion year period. By comparison, white women, they’re starting to draw sharper distinc- ion,” Macklin acknowledged, “but there brands, or those positioned to speak pri- who account for 82 percent of women 18 tions, either by leveraging psychographic are so many other images that may have marily to white consumers. Retailers’ for- and older, spent $32.1 billion on apparel, or demographic traits. more mass appeal. If a consumer doesn’t ays have included ads using black models, from September 2001 through October For instance, African-American relate to a particular musician, they may such as H&M’s full page in the April issue 2002, or 0.74 percent of their median annu- women are more likely than Caucasian feel a fashion ad doesn’t speak to them.” of In Style; Macy’s sponsorship of the al household income. That share of spend- women to say that owning luxury prod- In contrast, Macklin maintained there’s a Essence Girl What’s Cool Mall Event, com- ing was slightly lower than the 0.76 per- ucts makes them feel better about them- broader appeal in fresh, healthy, mod- ing up April 5th at the Cherry Hill Mall in cent of median annual income spent by all selves — by 42 percent to 26 percent, ac- ern-looking models, like those in ads in Cherry Hill, N.J.; Kmart’s Urban Direct American women. Black women now gen- cording to Harris Interactive research the April editions of In Style (H&M); magalog, aimed at its black customers, and erate 11 percent of American women’s conducted in November 2002. But de- O/The Oprah Magazine (Liz Claiborne); Wal-Mart’s ongoing outreach to African spending on apparel versus the 85 percent signer apparel trails sectors such as Teen Vogue (Levi’s Type One), and Americans, as seen in its “diva-tude” insti- share expended by white women. prestige fragrance, luxury cars, financial Essence (Lauren Ralph Lauren). tutional ad in the April issue of Essence. The mistaken impression that African- services and electronics in capitalizing For apparel advertising aimed at Opinions differ regarding the most ef- American women’s median annual house- on this trend. Tiffany fragrance and Dior African Americans to establish a bigger fective marketing tactic. Some prefer ads hold income of $31,157 — 37 percent less Addict are advertising in Vibe and presence, it will have to become a bigger and promotions featuring an African- than the $49,097 median for households Essence, as are Jaguar, Cadillac, Lincoln issue for fashion brand marketers. As American model, or diverse models; oth- of white women — suggests less willing- Aviator and Nissan Shift. Morgan Stanley Sam Shahid, president and creative di- ers contend it’s most important to select ness on the part of black women to spend and Verizon Wireless are currently run- rector of ad agency Shahid & Co., said, a targeted vehicle or event. on apparel, when, in fact, they spend ning prominent print and TV campaigns “You don’t see it being addressed. There There was agreement, however, re- more on it than other groups, observers aimed at African Americans. doesn’t seem to be such a big voice about garding the dearth of apparel advertising pointed out. And Marshal Cohen, co-pres- “Radical-image urban spending is it like there was in the Sixties. The con- aimed at African Americans. For exam- ident of Port Washington-based market about buying cars, electronics and jewel- versation comes up, but I don’t know that ple, when asked how it is that the 220- researcher NPDFashionworld, for one, ry,” said NPDFashionworld’s Cohen, in fashion advertisers find it necessary to page April issue of Essence has just five maintains many brands are afraid that referring to the process of spending most address,” offered Shahid, whose clients apparel ads, Pamela Macklin, the maga- targeting a lower-income customer will of one’s discretionary income on a few include Tse and Abercrombie & Fitch. zine’s fashion director, replied: “That turn off their primary consumer target. big-ticket purchases. “Wardrobe used to Essence’s Macklin, for one, begs to dif- lack of [apparel] advertising is something “The lower-income consumer aspires be part of that phenomenon, but it’s not fer. “[African Americans] continue to that bewilders me. I am totally clueless.” to look and live like an upper-income anymore. That’s hurt brands from spend the dollars, yet this is a market One possible explanation, said ob- consumer, but [most] fashion brands don’t Tommy Hilfiger to Nautica to Polo.” that continues to be ignored,” she em- servers, is that African-American women’s want to market to the lower-income group In addition, black women tend to buy phasized. “Where’s the romance?” 21 Charming Shoppes’ Chopping Block WEDNESDAY,WWD, 2003 19, MARCH

Continued from page 2 we have now, over the past three while the intimate and sweater a $37.7 million pretax charge for years, grown from a $1 billion, merchandise, which she said the restructuring plan. The loss single retail brand in Fashion was too bulky and had fur col- was $3.3 million, or 3 cents, Bug stores, to now a $2.4 billion, lars, was fashion appropriate, without the charge. multidivisional retailer under the but not for LB’s customers. Sales for the quarter de- LB, Catherine’s and FB name- “They need to find a better creased 7.1 percent to $601.2 mil- plates. We are now in the position balance between fashion and lion over $647.1 million. Comps to take advantage of streamlining basics,” Lakner said. for the company fell 5 percent in processes and getting the syner- For the full year, CS reported the quarter, led by the 12 percent gies of running a larger corpora- a loss of $2.8 million, or earnings Lane Bryant will eliminate about 160 jobs at its corporate and divisional offices. comp decline at Lane Bryant, off- tion and consolidating a number of 1 cent a diluted share, includ- setting the 1 percent comp in- of administrative, financial, ing the cumulative effect of an company reported a loss of $4.4 “These initiatives are de- crease at FB and the flat comp at human resources and informa- accounting change and the re- million, or 4 cents a diluted signed to position the company Catherine’s. tion technology services.” structuring credit of $4.8 million. share, including a $37.7 restruc- for increased profitability,” a CS stock ended Tuesday at Dorothy Lakner, a retail ana- Income before the accounting turing charge. Excluding the re- company official said. “While our $3.17, up 7 cents, or 2.3 percent, lyst with CIBC World Markets, change was $46.3 million, or 39 structuring charge, income was strategic focus continues to be on in Nasdaq trading. said that, while she applauds CS cents a diluted share, including 20.1 million, or 19 cents. Sales for increasing revenue and margins, Lane Bryant, purchased from for its cost savings, the real the pretax restructuring credit of 2002 increased 21 percent to particularly at our Lane Bryant Limited Brands on Aug. 16, 2001, issue at LB is getting the unit $4.8 million. Income, excluding $2.41 billion compared with sales brand, our immediate focus is to experienced weak response to its back on track through improved the credit and before the ac- of $1.99 billion in 2001, including reduce our cost structure and product offerings, resulting in a sales. Lakner said the denim counting change, was $43.4 mil- sales from LB. Comps declined 2 leverage our size through effi- more aggressive promotional business became too basic, lion, or 37 cents. Last year, the percent for the year. ciencies in operations.” stature, the company said. Total sales at LB were $236 million ver- sus the $254 million in incremen- tal revenues in the prior year. “That is a business we have been spending a lot of time on and effort to turn around and fix,” Dorrit J. Bern, chairwoman and chief executive, said on a morn- ing conference call. “That said, I am pleased with the performance Dallas of the other two divisions. If you look at the blend of businesses when we started last year, I ex- pected more from LB and less from Catherine’s and less from the Bug, but Fashion Bug had a has racked great year and Catherine’s came back roaring.” LB, however, was disappoint- ing, “particularly in the second half.” Eric Specter, chief finan- up quite a cial officer, told WWD: “It was a difficult holiday selling season. We had merchandise assortment issues in a number of key cate- gories, including denim, sweaters reputation and intimate apparel, and that led to significant price reductions.” To help shore up the LB unit, CS appointed Carrie Klein as its new general merchandise manger for the best in for its intimate apparel division. She previously served as the divi- sional merchandise manager of intimate apparel and accessories at FB. In addition, the firm an- nounced in January the appoint- women’s apparel. ment of Susan C. Connell as gen- eral merchandise manager of the sportswear division, reporting to Diane Missel, president of LB. Bern said that, by the fall, LB customers will see a distinct move away from what she termed the “gimmicky” merchandise that occupied its selling space, and didn’t properly address its con- sumer niche: “I am confident by the third quarter, you are going to see a new direction. We are put- ting less of emphasis out there in the latest fashion, but more on function,” she said. “We want to be sure the young woman is fash- ion right, but with her figure type in mind and the requirements that brings.” The company has completed last year’s restructuring plan, which called for the closure of its 77-door Added Dimensions-An- swer chain, elimination of 130 un- derperforming FB stores and con- DALLAS DELIVERS version of 44 of them into the LB concept. In addition, it reduced its long-term debt by roughly $56 mil- In fact, when it comes to any type of apparel, we’re the Market with the most lion, while extending the majority niches. The most categories. Services that save you time and money. And of its debt maturities to 2012. It also repurchased over 12 million opportunities to grow as a retailer. So mark your calendar now. And hang on. shares, and, as conditions allow, is prepared to proceed with addi- tional repurchases, contingent on appropriate consent from lenders WOMEN’S & CHILDREN’S APPAREL & ACCESSORIES and Limited Brands. 1-800-DALMKTS • DallasMarketCenter.com Specter said: “The genesis of March 27-31, 2003 the cost-reduction plan is the fact 22 WWD West Here Comes the Store Continued from page 2 that have turned Robertson Boulevard into one of the images of animals and motifs from past collections. city’s hottest shopping destination. A block north sits McCartney’s first London door, set to bow in mid-April, high-end institution Maxfield on Melrose Avenue. has one room in the four-story, 10,000-square-foot McCartney and her parent company, Gucci Group, Georgian town house at 30 Bruton Street. It’s covered in have set out to brand the name with more than ready-to- marquetry, a 17th-century decora- wear. An as-yet-unnamed perfume tive technique using carved and is set to bow in June. Skin care inlaid wood. and lingerie collections are under WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 19, 2003 WWD, WEDNESDAY, Like the New York store set in development and McCartney is fo- the heart of the Meatpacking cusing on growing her accessories District and the London boutique collection made of non-animal al- perched on a road not too far from ternatives. Footwear made its Bond Street with several art and debut on the runway this month sculpture galleries, McCartney fa- with “Suitable for Vegetarians” The future home of Stella McCartney’s store. vors locations on the outskirts of emblazoned across the soles. The developed fashion thoroughfares. store here is expected to dedicate Sources close to McCartney said rooms to the various categories. she had been searching for a space Seuss said Gucci is behind for several months before settling McCartney’s retail expansion, but on an area better known for its in- there are no other store openings A New Citizen terior design acumen than tony planned for 2003. “We want a good LOS ANGELES — Citizens of Humanity has added to fashion outposts. Rodeo Drive was balance between retail and whole- its population. New York designer Noam Hanoch has never an option, she insisted last sale and we want to make sure joined the Vernon, Calif.-based denim label, reporting October, on a visit here to celebrate that we have the right product,” to co-founder and head designer Jerome Dahan. her Absolut ad campaign — and he said, noting there is room for Hanoch, a graduate of New York’s Traphagen covertly check out the local real es- future retail growth and priorities School of Fashion Design and owner of the contem- tate. Her most distinguished neigh- include Paris, Milan and Tokyo. porary line Rouge, plans to close the $1 million firm bors include Diva, a boutique spe- McCartney’s company is 50 and relocate to Los Angeles for his new position. He cializing in modern Italian furni- percent owned by Gucci, with the will work on the company’s growing collection, in- ture, and Armani Casa, Giorgio designer owning the other half. cluding tops and jackets. Armani’s home concept. As with other Gucci subsidiaries, Launched last month at the Fashion Coterie trade “I think the L.A. girls get my the company declined to forecast show in New York, executives said Citizens of stuff. I like it here, but you can’t the store’s first-year sales. But Humanity has booked about $5 million in orders from hail a taxi,” she smirked back in Dembo estimated annual sales at specialty and better department stores, including October. “Now that’s a venture to area apparel stores average be- Colette in Paris and Barneys New York, with plans to consider — there’s definitely a Stella McCartney, seen here with Demi Moore in tween $600 and $700 a square reach $25 million in first-year sales. Recently, it market here for a good taxi busi- October, when she was scouting for retail spaces. foot. Assuming Stella McCartney signed a licensing deal for knit tops with City of ness.” reflects the average, the store Industry, Calif.-based Swat Fame Inc., according to Not that fashion clusters are far off. Two blocks south could pull in between $1.8 million and $2.1 million in co-founder Michael Glasser. are Hogan, Ghost, Curve and dozens of other retailers sales its first year. Oscar Watch LOS ANGELES — Organizers of the Oscars said in a press conference late Tuesday that they will be truncating the red- carpet portion of the awards event, but the show will go on. Even before Academy Awards producer Gil Cates Jr. and Frank Pierson, president of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences revealed their decision, the cottage industry surrounding the grand event was beginning to feel the effects as participants try to continue conducting business in these not-so- usual times. Here’s what’s happening in From left: Arnold Scaasi’s sketch of the gown he designed for Joan Rivers; Jimmy Choo’s Tamara Mellon and Sandra Choi; Zang Toi and model; and around town as Hollywood gears up Missoni’s Gerlinde Hobel; Vintage Fendi bags. for its own version of March Madness. ● PAY TO PLAY: The rumors of big money changing hands in the Donatella Versace, she admitted, “I am a little worried about Oscar fashion sweepstakes are more rampant than usual with the returning home to Paris, but I do feel safe in here.” ● AS NOT SEEN ON TV: The evening entertainment shows are tallest tales coming from the jewelry industry. With all the big (Incidentally, 20-year-old Margharita Missoni had to cancel adjusting their programming. While “Entertainment Tonight” will jewelry firms — and bitty ones, too — vying for the lobes, necks her trip to Hollywood after her mother, Angela Missoni, forbade cover pre-Oscar parties, it has decided to pull the plug on coverage and arms of nominees and A-listers, many are apparently shelling her to come, as reported.) of the various beauty treatment suites, stationed at the Le Meridian, out both rocks and dollars: it seems several actresses — even a few At the Chateau Marmont, where Hobel is seeing clients this the Peninsula and other hotels all over town this week. It’s a blow to minor ones — are demanding compensation of up to a $150,000 week, she was already experiencing the effect a war may have the companies who shell out thousands in the hope of scoring a to guarantee they’ll wear them during a TV segment this week. on the red carpet. “I have a client whose husband is celebrity and even the more coveted broadcast media. An “Extra” Meanwhile, Joan Rivers, who will be dressed in gold by Arnold nominated, who chose a pink dress, but now she would like a producer reported its crew will continue its coverage as planned, Scaasi, as reported, will be dripping in $5 million worth of Harry black dress in reserve,” she said. “I find it very sad because it’s although the opening dates of many of the suites are so late in the Winston jewels. Her stylist, Cary Fetman, in collaboration with like mourning. I would take a more positive attitude and maybe week that they will likely be skipped for that reason. “Unless the Rivers and the Winston designers, created a 75-carat yellow add a touch of black in recognition of the situation.” [national] security code moves up past orange, we’re just going diamond choker (representing the 75th anniversary of the Oscars) Hobel has another reason to make her mark in Los Angeles: forward,” she said. As for “E!,” style director Elycia Rubin is with three strands and an opera-length chain that wraps around this year is Missoni’s 50th anniversary, and the house plans a limiting suite coverage to the Beauty Buffet at the Chateau six times forming a bib of multicolored diamonds. Los Angeles celebration later in the year. Marmont for a simple reason: “We’ve done that story to death.” ● TOI STORY: Although he’s been showing in New York for the ● FENDI FEST: Wanting to show there’s more to Fendi than the ● COSTUME PARTY: “A great dress has an euphoric effect even in these past 13 years, Zang Toi had never been to Oscar week — until baguette, the house has sent 23 of its vintage bags and 20 grim times,” said emcee Anjelica Huston at the Fifth Annual Costume stylist Ricci DeMartino convinced him. Upon finding out, Toi vintage gowns to its Rodeo Drive boutique and enlisted p.r. Designer’s Guild Awards Sunday night at the Regent Beverly Wilshire, fan Kelly Stone offered to host a poolside fashion show at her powerhouse PMK to get celebs to don them. Said creative during which Meryl Streep presented the Bulgari Career Achievement Sherman Oaks home on Sunday and drew Bobbi Brown, director Silvia Venturini Fendi; “I knew I wanted to do something Award to Ann Roth, who’s nominated for an Oscar for “The Hours,” Oliver Peoples, Kwiat Diamonds and Tryna Kane jewelry. that included our history. An actor gets immortalized on the red and Andy Garcia presented Dustin Hoffman with the Distinguished carpet and immediately becomes a part of history — that’s why Actor award. “We all know that of all the elements in show ● DESIGNING DJ: “Sex and the City” costumer Rebecca I wanted to give them a choice that could be extremely personal business, costume design is what’s most important,” Streep said. Weinberg will make sure vinyl is in vogue this week when she and not necessarily tied to a specific season.” So far, about half The winners were: spins in the Bacardi Lounge Thursday from 9 p.m. to 11 p.m. the inventory is loaned out, as are six dresses from its March 4 Television, Period/Fantasy: Jane Anderson, “American Dreams.” at Le Meridien hotel. It’s still a mystery as to what she will runway show. And in a more high tech Oscar effort, the house Television, Contemporary: Laura Goldsmith, “Alias.” play — and wear — but to get to Los Angeles, she needed two has collaborated with Sprint to custom-design a carrying bag for Film, Contemporary: Wendy Chuck, “About Schmidt.” airline tickets — one for her and one for her records. the new Sanyo SCP-5300 camera phone, given to 20 nominees. Film, Period/Fantasy: Colleen Atwood, “Chicago.” The bag retails for $350, the phone for $499, with one-year Commercials: Bobbie Mannix, T-On Line and Kym Barrett, Anti- ● MISSONI’S MISSION: Gerlinde Hobel, the Missoni family member unlimited free service, worth another $850. Smoking. charged with VIP dressing, didn’t hesitate to come to Los Angeles, Of course, those on the red carpet may also have Motorola’s Career Achievement in Television: Rita Riggs. but after listening to President Bush address the nation Monday and new camera phone in hand — the T722i — which comes with The President’s Award: Piero Tosi. in the wake of cancellations by fellow Italians Giorgio Armani and six free months of T-Mobile service. PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO BY PHOTOS 23 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 19, 2003 you provide We provide Send resume to: fax 201-222-7883 — John Zarocostas John — the leads and support, Sales Pro! Looking for [email protected] or stores or yoga/fitness studios. established contacts at specialty BigHeart, acompany with a Yoga patented, cutting- edge yoga accessories mat carrier,for salespeople is in looking LAon to capitalize press hitsFitness, etc. in Vogue, Shape, [email protected] If the panel upholds Brazil’s Brazil contended the subsi- It further claimed the effect Brazilian diplomatic sources A recent study by Oxfam, the www.skagen.com or charge, the result could have a major influence in shaping the outcome of talks to reform global subsidy rules in the Doha global said. trade talks, diplomats dies are trade distorting and have a significant negative effect on the production and commer- cialization of cotton in Brazil and worldwide. of the measures “is significant price depression and price sup- pression in the markets for up- land cotton in Brazil, the U.S. and other third-country mar- kets, and the world market.” said the U.S. subsidies caused damages of $640 million a year and led to a decline in Brazilian tons. cotton production of 160,000 British charity and advocacy group for the said poor, U.S. sup- port to its 25,000 cotton producers totaled about $3.9 billion per year and cost poor African cotton ex- porting nations about $300 mil- lion a year in lost revenue. Lake Tahoe Account Executive SKAGEN DESIGNS Ltd. benefits pack-

SALES MANAGEMENT 775-850-5533 Executive excellent Wholesale Account The World The Trade World 818-876-3285 or email [email protected] We are expandingcorporate our office sales indriven force Reno, professional who Nevada. to hasing We add a major will proven retail a programs track betion may involve up to 50% travel. in position record territories hiring of in or manag- a nationally. our The sales posi- Must haveworking excellent with sales majorsales department reps and store andresume retail buyers to: merchandisers. , management PleaseYou may visit our website at regional either experience account fax or e-mail your An international luxurymunications company com- hasexciting an you opportunity canWe where make are aprofessional West Coast, currently difference! seeking a Must haveence luxury & goods aMust wholesale experi- background. beare an willing innovative company toing offer- an travel. We Please fax resumes to: Must use reference code: WWDWC age & much more! The subsidies for the year Deputy U.S. representa- Trade “It appears that Brazil is at- Deily said the U.S. will “vig- Countries including Argentina, WTO Reviews U.S. Cotton Subsidy Cotton U.S. Reviews WTO GENEVA — Organization agreed Tuesdayestablish to a panel to examine Brazil’s complaint that U.S. sub- sidies to American producers and exporters of upland cotton trade rules.violate global ended July 31 “totaled almost $4 billion,” Brazilian WTO ambassa- dor Luis Felipe Seixas Correa told delegates to a session of the body. agency’s dispute-settlement tive Linnet Deily F. called the charges unfounded. tempting to litigate for a reduction in U.S. cotton support that is not embodied in U.S. WTO commit- ments,” he continued. He said the Bush administration believes “the support programs are within our allowable WTO limits and consis- tent with our WTO obligations.” orously defend” the programs. Canada, China, India, Pakistan, as and well Taiwan, Venezuela, as the EU, said they would partici- pate in the dispute proceedings as interested third parties. (213) 746-6993 Hot Jr Contemporary SALESPERSON Established hotmfr jr contemporary salesperson in with strongwith contacts L.A. major+ comm. Please fax resume to: chain seeks stores. Salary in-house — David Moin David — He was also sometimes called After leaving David Crystal, In addition to his wife, Rieger 510-781-0869 party aboard the Diplomat yacht. The party drew a crowd of 100, including Mohan Murjani, and Zachary Solomon, who said,. “He knew people in ladies’ wear, accessories, men’s wear, just about every sector of our indus- and he try, always wore a hat, so we called him Captain Jack.” “The Maitre D’ of Seventh Av- enue” because he habitually took ” snapshots of friends at events. Rieger became vice chairman of Sophisticates. Charlotte Ford/Don he worked at the American Later, Licensing Group, then formed a licensing business, creating among other licenses Guess Coca-ColaWatches, for Ladies, raincoats.. and Jones New York is survived by two daughters from a previous marriage, Lisa Claman and Caroline Rieger; his brother, Murray, and two grand- children. A memorial service will be announced.

SENIOR DESIGNER employer committed to workplace diversity. Teski Leather seeks a highly motivated indi- re: Senior Designer. For more info please visit our Send resume immediately to: [email protected] website at www.londonfog.com/lfi. We are AA/EEO London Fog Industries iser the and leading designer, distributorWe market- of proudly quality representDot, outerwear London Dockers, and Fog, Moonstone rainwear. and Pacificlated Roffe products Trail, outerwear to Black and meetcal dress, re- casual, outerwear social needs. andnior techni- We Designer to are driveof currently the our seeking creative direction acommitment children’s and to Se- line. vision excellence and Aence desire are to passion critical make tosit a for on success differ- children’s Lake in Unionviews this style, in of position. downtown the Our Seattle, lake,diverse offices offering sailboats city, stellar and with seaplanes.great the Seattle outdoors. benefits is Our of a requirementsdegree big include in city a Apparel living Bachelor’s Design,knowledge and min. of the 5 pattern yearstion. making designer Prefer exp., andouterwear. garment prior We construc- offer experiencecreative and dynamic work environment. excellent salary designing and benefits a in children’s a West Coast Sales Rep vidual to rep their lineCoast. for Candidate the must West have active accounts anddepartment relationships stores/major with Fax resume to: chains. Better Contemporary Leather Collec- tion Designer Gloria Gelfand, Rie- his wife, his 80th birthday, For Chip Rieger Chip Rieger ger’s friend for 45 years, said: “Chip was always there for all of his friends. He was caring.” Terre Simpson, who runs an ex- ecutive search firm bearing her name, threw him a black-tie Aronson, managing director of retail strategies at Kurt Salmon Associates. GUIDE FOR LOS ANGELES T: (310) 379-7533 or [email protected] FREELANCE BUYER Does your retail outlet need fresh, new merchandise but can’t afford the expensive buying trips to Los Angeles? Hire us as your Freelance Buyer. Strong merchandising skills and tough negotiator. Jack “Chip” Rieger,

swimwear apparel company, is growing.

TOP DOLLAR engineering, costing, import/export and domestic and CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER Apparel Ventures in Southern California, the leading [email protected] OR CLOSEOUTS Born in Brooklyn and a cap- “He was a very Damon Run- Email resume: [email protected] or fax 310-225-2958 Obituary Manage all aspects of production, quality control, testing, Strategic planning for manufacturing expansion. Introduction of innovative apparel manufacturing processes WALT ADAMS INC and Latin America. international sourcing. µ Requires seniorpreferably management in experience swimwearstrategic in or planning apparel intimate responsibility,and apparel, manufacturing loading knowledge budgetary techniques. of and Sourcing plant experience in layout Asia, Europe The COO position will be responsible for: µ µ T: 800-996-4469 F: 800-540-2784

FOR RETURNS,IR’S Jack ‘Chip’ Rieger, Lacoste Executive, 83 Executive, Lacoste Rieger, ‘Chip’ Jack NEW — YORK a pioneer in the wholesale and li- censing arena instrumental in making the Izod Lacoste brand among the first fashion status symbols, died March 12 at Saint Luke’s-Roosevelt Hospital Center. who Rieger, was 83, died from complications of a massive stroke ago. he suffered about 2 1/2 years during World tain in the Air Force II, War the outgoing Rieger spent most of his 40-year career with David Crystal, once a large manu- facturer that owned Izod Lacoste. Rieger was president of Izod and, under his stewardship, the brand grew enormously. Rieger joined David Crystal in 1949, when the business had $25 million in sales, and left in 1979 when volume was $350 million and the firm was sold to General Mills. yon-esque full character, of posi- tives, very creative, with simply a great sales He personality. had a tremendous network of friends and associates,” said Arnold 24 WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 19, 2003 Will selltocatalogs/chains/wholesalers Excellent quality&turn-aroundtime. Made toorderonallknits+corduroy CLOSE OUTSU.S.OREXPORTS We arenicepeopletodealwith Ladies’ &Men’sSweaters Peter [email protected] Terry -FrenchDazzleMesh We buymen’s,women’s&children’s Cash ForRetailStock&Closeouts. Also HBAandGeneralMerchandise. WE HAVEINSTANTMONEY Call Rocky800-762-5488 P.S. LargePieceGoodDeals apparel. Largequantitieswanted. Rib-Lycra-Jersey-Fleece NoLotTooBigorSmall. Three by201-861-0033 MADE INU.S.A. Drake Fabrics.718-389-8902 Women’s &Children’s Call CLOTHES-OUT: CLOSE OUTS Call 212-627-3595 *ALL Off-Price* We BuyMen’s, TYE DYE All Quantities (937) 898-2975

ns eybih,uiiisincluded. ft utilities bright, sq Price: $34.00sqft. very 196 ceil- ings, high occupied showroom, floors, loft & wood office renovated, studio ft newly design sq textile a 6200 enclosed by a of suit) an to (optional) build (will & ft sq 700 RENTING: A yblwmre au.Cl o noat info for Call ft. value. 212-239-7272 orfax212-643-1379. market sq. below substantial- at 3,900+ ly showroomspace / building. office center ment Steven Lambert212-944-6094 Show -ShipManufacture 14-59 St/Mad-9Ave.;1500-10000SqFt&up Garment CenterBldg. BWAY 7THAVESIDESTREETS W 38thSt13,000FtDIV.$18Deal Paul, Mike,Larr GARMENT CENTERREALESTATE Prime ManhattanScott212-268-8043 Office/Showrm-Great Deals! BERNSTEIN R.E.-largest#NYClistings If interestedcall212-242-0050ext100 WEST 22NDSTREET Unbelievable SubletOppty Allan Gallawa albefrsbes npeirgar- premier in sublease for vailable Search- www.manhattanoffices.com $18/sq.ft available.Immediatelycall Albert 212-971-0003or917-721-4265 1370 Broadway.2,750sq.ftorless. Under MarketSublets-NOFEE! Showrooms &Lofts Great ’New’OfficeSpaceAvail For ALLoffice&loftSPACES 1407 BROADWAY ADAMS &CO.212-679-5500 SHOWROOMS/OFFICES 700-5000’ NewPreBuilts 212-947-5500 500-20,000 SQ.FT TREBOR MGMT y 212-594-1414x251 y , Don,Jerr y orElliot Elliot Weinstein # 947-4894 Elliot Weinstein UNUSUAL SHOWROOM Bright/sunny. Grtspace!Cable ready. $19.95 for4258sqftwith12windows Owner212-695-0005or718-387-0500 Midtown NYC.Plscall212-944-9381 212-840-4480 212-840-4481 212-840-4480 BROADWAY 37th-38thSts +6000 SFMoreCanBeMadeAvail FASHION CENTERbldg HELMSLEY-SPEAR, INC office &showroomunits 1200-8795sf tower has severalattractive Call/Fax GerardJ.Falcone 8th Ave,#55524/7 Special reduceto$17.95for 1359 BWAY 3108 sqftwith11windows 1384 BWAY and/or OFFICE PRIVATE BATHROOMS t ...MarketRentals he DISTINCTIVE ...NBIAvailable SUBLET 1600 SF flr oe prvdMr nCia E-mail China. in zhang for moreinfo: Mfr. approved Jones ls ulcts atrs ulservice Full shop tothetrade.Finefastwork. patterns. duplicates, ples, Sam- productions. small in Specializing Fast cost. Low w quality. High Reliable. tough E-mail: & we Fax: Mkt., skills. merchandising negotiating European strong Eu- in With to have needs. exp. trips your years for for 20+ us time Don’ Contact & Italy? rope? staff & the France have of & out sportswear sweaters edge cutting for Looking 845-469-8200 available E-mail: [email protected] Tel: packages available. Financing Complete Basic. & co.; growing Fashion seeks Men’s/Women’s/Children’s; factory jean Complete Kohl’s Coopers, Pricewaterhouse 24FT W,75FTD.READYFORMOVE COMPUTER PATTERNS PRODUCTION AVAILABLE 1st Samples,Patterns,CoutureQuality Ed Li212-880-0419#RichDu212-880-043 Custom Available.Call516-873-7377 Currently, manufacturinghighquality for quickturnaroundUSAproduction. European BuyingServices All lines,Anystyles.FineFastService. Automatic Trimming(212)629-8388 IN. $60/SF.212-583-1256,631-537-3312. in 24hrs.Localdelivery,pick&pack,etc. 800-451-8625 orwww.aitftrucking.com Warehouse &DistributionCtr. Vol Production/CompetitivePricing **Photoshop 7.0&Illustrator10.0** LETTER OFCREDIT Small orbiglots.Wedomarkersand Very capablemanufactureravailable PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PATTERN/SAMPLES Evening &BridalSamples CASHMERE! FineGaugesweaters! ork. Custom-madeBridalwr212-629-4808 T: 212-268-7291-4/7newclass 10 Classes/Upto45K/Internavail *Train AsstDesigner&Prod’nAsst* 54 hrsPkg(Flats,Prints,Colorways) PRINCE ST/NOLITA-PRIMERETAIL [email protected] We arrangeletterofcreditandpur- GerberPDS2000, pattern,sample& PATTERNS/SAMPLES COTTON, RAYON,NYLON,SILK, chase orderfinancing FASHION TRAINING POLO, COACH,BANANA&YOU. Quality Control,30yrsexperience. compatible. women’s apparel.LectraSoftware Lease-2,000sf GroundFlr-500sfBsmt Production Service MAIN STRETAIL.TIFFANY’S, Permanent Pleating,Ruffling Pattern Making,SampleRoom, EAST HAMPTON Full CMTDomesticPackages. samples too.Call973-266-0901 270 W39thStreet(17thFloor) Trained Hundredssince2002 production. Call212-594-3595 Call Sherr ELASTIC SMOCKING Apparel ProductionInc. PRODUCTIONS Sseuroa AITF TRUCKING Cut/Sew/Ship HELMSLEY-SPEAR INC. PRODUCTION MEXICO Call: 212-278-8362 212-869-2699 Call (229)762-3535or y g , 212-719-0622. www.vic-usa.com [email protected] y [email protected] 718-645-1982 888-782-4188 NY/NJ/LI 4 t / - , Ed Kret,Textiles/Apparel212-213-6384 Nancy Bottali,Accessory212-213-6386 Ileen Raskin212-213-6381 PROFESSIONAL RESUMES,INC. itiuin loain ikpc and shipping. Monitoring pick-pack allocation, location. distribution, Midtown N.Y.C. ee.ep itw rnylarge trendy Product Midtown in Strong exp. chain. exp. sportswear. devel. Current Junior $100-115K. Buyer QuickBooks. of Please CallorFaxresumetoNeilat: Knowledge 3 exp. Minimum years firm. apparel midtown For design resume & coverletterto:212-398-0654. types in FAX women’s used garments. all eveningwear beads of of plastic knowledge & glass & for have of exp. Must years specs. 3 technical designs designs develop of Sketch & bead apparel. mfr sequin eveningwear Create for & eveningwear. (Manh.) women’s Designer creative. Bead in experience extremely years -3 childrens. Exc.Salary&Benefitspackage. 2 be Minimum Individual girls. should and infant/toddler level to design Illustrator/Photoshop, taste of great knowledge seeks with company individual Childrenswear Major benefits fax/ send please & consideration, For preferred. package. compensation merchandising degree Excellent A fashion & must. in a skills We strong w/Excel req’d, proficiency numerical sense sale. merch communication, & merchandise available. final positions Fashion two & have development through currently of concept in in planning frominitial buyer management Apparel category(s) exp the co and & aid Accessories To w/2+yrs high-energy & catalog Shoes self-motivated, professionals specialty seeks Women’s In- send Benefits Please cluded. style. feminine a Cute, skills must. computer MAC and Illustration Excellent designer/illustrator. level time entry full seeks studio Jersey Central with location. LI exp. work years Fax resumeandsalaryrequirementsto: 5 E-mail Min dept’s. Word, required. Excel, to prod. in skills and Advanced sales, individual development, ori- ented Assistant-detailed Administrative call appointment For Mr. Youngat212-564-7430x208. req. exp. all in- Garment dustry deductions. handle application customer cash highly and collections, to starter, of aspects individual self a motivated seeks Importer Development. 28yearsindustryexperi- lst:DweP,..Bx665, Box P.,P.O. Dawne to: Farmingdale, NJ07727 ples RESUMES THATWORK!SINCE1970 Shipping &ReceivingFacility BOOKKEEPER -FullCharge Tel: 212-921-0700/Fax:212-944-1844 Artist/Juniors Apparel ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Merchandising/Line Building/Product ASSISTANT DESIGNER Apparel/Accessory/Textile Specialists mens/boys wovenshirtandswimco. ence inthebetter&bridgemarkets. NEWPORT NEWS,INC. Accounts Receivable good organizationalskills.Plsefax Attn: HR/EG.Fax(212)916-8320or STAY FOCUSED Please faxresumeto212-239-2766 visit usatwww.newport-news.com must becreative,teamplayer,and E-mail: 711 3rdAve,4thFl,NY,NY10017 e-mail: [email protected] RASKIN EXECUTIVESEARCH ASSISTANT BUYER A Designerrequiredforyoung resume, including www.resumesforfashion.com 60 E42ndStreet,NYC10165 OPPORTUNITIES www.raskinexecsearch.com Updating/Phone Interviews (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Call 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgcy resume to:212-629-3959 FREELANCE No CallsonFriday. Call: 212-279-7268 [email protected] Fax: 212-949-6146

516-505-1370 212-724-8093 euead3sam- 3 and Resume salaryhistoryto: . aepireprec nhandbags. in experience Please Faxresumeto: prior Must details. have to excellent attention with and energetic, sketching, & creative design. be & research Responsible market W & SLG. trend & for totes handbags, seeks for brand fashion Leading including factories. req’d to exp. development CAD literate.Goodbenefits. years communication/travel 1-2 de- of Product seeks Min. line signer. BRANDED Junior Hip designer and seeks dress w company women’s sportswear Contemporary licensed new for division. Allresponsesconfidential. weather cold scarves, and belts, hats of development product W for responsible resume fax w be Please flat pkgs. and development Must spec skills. sketch, organization communication strong and w/ detail indiv. motivated, oriented seeks company Knit $25- range Photo- Salary Word, 30K. PleasefaxresumetoMr.Jay@: Illustrator. envi- & know PC shop & Must MAC ronments. swatch with & Familiar boards assem- cards. presentation room, of sample bling archiving, of & sample maintenance photographing include labeling, will Responsibilities light & knits w line 4-16 w girls For Medi- $28-$35K. cal. 401K. Salary delivery. fromincep- to production tion of stages acceptable. includ- all follow-up ing exp. heavy include production Duties center with asst. Garment Admin. exp required. City. exp. Island production located Long firm in manufacturing Garment V BUYERS (alllevels)...... 40-180K SALES ASSTS...... 30-40K TECH DESIGN(Mens/Boys)...... 55-65K Minimum 3yearsexperience. or 1-212-221-7064 @ Cathy email [email protected] to resume Photoshop & Illustrator atmosphere. xeine einrfralapcso aspects all for Designer experienced DESIGNER SERVICE/PRODUCTION Designer -Accessories Fax resumeto212-563-3396Attn:Jud DESIGNER -Handbags If interested,pleasee-mailresumeto Call 212-986-7329orFax212-986-7708 FASHION NETWORK201-503-1060/Fax1070 DESIGNER $100K++ ISUAL MDSERS...... 60-80K / salar Design AssistantF/T t oilsprtsbackground. separates social ith Send must!!! a layers of /knowledge paced fast creative in work To ovens. nweg fM odadExcel and a must. word MS dips. years of lab approve Knowledge to ability the 5 knowledge and print designer, sense, color woven design, good a as in experience a degree include requirements Minimum garment and from conception toproductionsample. through pants have follow of must good Candidate and line separates. direct casual career to update, and moderate, ability design the woven have strong headquarters work to with experience sportswear motivated highly designer seeks moderate co. apparel Major r lsl ihbadn em Must team. branding with closely ork salary, benefitspackage,plus401(k). l salse cesr o seeks co. accessory established ell Many Temp&PermOpportunities Design Assistant Jr Sweaters,GreatNYCCompany Fax resumetoL Briggs NewYorkoffersanexcellent Please faxresumes:212-563-0204 Director ofHR:(617)332-3260 DESIGN ASSISTANT b Fax Resumeto2126310918 SPORTSWEAR g BRIGGS NEWYORK Marking &Gradingaplus for Production&Samples Experienced inMatching Please faxresumesto [email protected] y requirementsto CUSTOMER DESIGNER DESIGNER "ON THEMARKS" & DelicateFabrics CAREERS (212) 213-4296 Cutter niiulmust Individual . y - nn 212-302-2399 HANDBA 212-564-2882 nour in (917) 510-9448 adesigner

Boston G y f . WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 19, 2003 25 ) f K

$50-80K .... Sales Manager [email protected] SHARAGANO CAREER OPPORTUNITIES: Product Development/ Attn: VP 212-302- 2319 Please fax resume: 212-967-1791 . This position is involved with GRAPHIC ARTIST GRAPHIC ARTIST Please call 212-972-9300 or e-mail: ASSOCIATE DESIGNER REQUIREMENTS:skills: Computer MS Illustrator,Photoshop, Office, web/graphicknowledge skills ofstruction garment sense con- of/trend color/style ablepaced to environment. Excellent workcompensation. Fax resume in fast B, Marvel, Nickleodean, Starter, Major privatehighly label motivated,organized Mfr manager to articulate seeks takeof charge a & ladiesDuties sportswear include account. ment, product customer develop- liaison. Good &computer communication skills production a & retail must. Knldge trend of &Excellent fabric salary marketPlease & A+. fax resume benefits & salaryto: 212-239-1260. history pkg. ith characters a plus. Please fax (4 Opptys in Men’s better, Women’s (Cut & Sew Knits and some sourcing exp Temp and Freelance positions also available. RETAIL ANALYST/PLANNER MERCH/SALES COORDINATORS.... $35-50 (Strong contacts. Must know creative srvs.) (Men’s, Women’s & Children’s) (Junior Sweaters, tops or Sleepwear) moderate, Urbanwear and Juniors) GROMWELL GROUP Graphic Artist-Freelance *PUBLIC RELATIONS MGR.$75-100K *CAD DESIGNERS...... $35-70K (Exp with NEDGRAPHICS or U4IA*) *DESIGN ASSOCIATES...... $45-70K (Men’s, Women’s, and Children’s) *PRODUCTION...... $25-42K * Bugleboy etc...Fax resumeDirector 212-944-1181 to Boys Art resume to: 212-221-7602 Attn: Sleep *DESIGNERS (3)...... $60-75K (Boy’s wear/Activewear/Urbanwear) *SALES MGRS/SR AE’s...... to $125K *PRODUCTION MGR...... $80-150K (Exp with Wovens, Knits or Sweaters) Girlsfreelance Sportswear Artist to& create Co. screen work prints CAD on looking experiencecurrent trends a must. various for and special projects. knowledge o Leading Boys/Mensmanufacturer license isartist. looking clothing Good for drawing,computer layout, talented color skills. and a Photoshop-Illustrator must.W Great working environment. Talented, versatile artistexcellent drawing wanted skills, ablegraphic with to design screens,hangtags. Experience on MAC logos,er comput- using freehand printstor. Photoshop, Illustra- and hand, Must trendw have savvy, Junior/Young Girls and experience *ACCT EXECS...... $65-150K *DESIGNER/MERCHANDISER$125K * BRIGGS NEW YORK EOE ...... $40-50K at our Boston headquarters Please fax resumes to Director of HR at (617) 332-3260 Great Firms Immed Need APPAREL OPERATIONS MANAGER (212) 398-5464 or email: [email protected] FREE COUNTRY Fax resume & salary history to: Briggs New York offers an excellent salary, benefits package, plus 401(k). merchandising, production, purchasinginclude and marketing. daily Responsibilities communicationmanagers, with coordinating buy textile plansto mills which maximize and integrate sales sales outsidecompany and goals, production production developing management sourcingproduction staff. strategies, regarding working with dailyMinimum operations requirements include and BachelorsMarketingand degree industry supervising in or Businessdetail oriented and possess strong analytical and computer skills. retail Admin buyingexperience. or Candidate must be Major moderateexecutive with sportswear a minimumfunctions of apparel 7 yrs experience co. to manage seeks all operational highly motivated Outerwear Designer [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 Gerber/Lectra Technology FINANCIAL ANALYST FINANCIAL MGR/SR. Fax resumes to: 212-719-2051 Attn: Ira [email protected] PDS Menswear Gerber Silhouette.$60-75K Lectra Digitizer Graphic $60K Kellwood Company, amfr. $2 has billion global anfinancial manager/Sr. immediate financial openingto analyst for join a fashion its business unit Manhattan with responsibili- ty based for women’s analysis,ing. research Reporting andsuccessful to forecast- candidate thebusiness will unit Division in support allplanning, the CFO, aspects reporting of and financial ysis business with anal- focus onit support of sales forecasting, prof- margin expense control,This improvement individual gross should haveyrs. & a min. of prior 8 CPA or MBA certification. inventory. related experience and a Seekingindivid seasoned, torespons. highly for ladies’& girls’outerwear joinlections. motivated col- Individ. designflat will sketches team& executeAdobe & detailed be Illustrator/ technicalstoryboards; Photoshop; drawings Prepareages; in make Create technicalShould proto be pack- work in a fast-paced environment. sample detail corrections. oriented & able to ...$115K ...... $80K ..$45-60K FABRIC [email protected] or Call 21-947-3400 y to: 212-727-1238 Attn: GS Fax resume to 267-295-1095 European Fabrics Go to Pittifilati orking for senior executive. dvanced EXCEL skills, solution ori- pplicant should be a self starter with Please fax resume (including salary) iew & collect on chargebacks. Must R&D Mgr Better Sportswear Int’l Prod’n Mgr/Merchandiser Retail...... Fabric Coord, Expedite/Allocate/PC ToddWa EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT Factored A/R - C/B Analysis fashion sales, design and finance experience. Min. experience of 5 years ented, efficient, organizedlent communication skills. with excel- have fashion industrymajor experience with &P.O. discount dept.Strong violations, comm. stores, skillsproach tracing EDI, & required. aggressive Mustothers shipments. work ap- & well underonly need apply. pressure. with Apparel exp. A w µ Experienced Researcher neededv to re- Leading designer firm has an immediate openinghigh level Executive Assistant. forResponsibilities: aSupport qualified Executive.merchandise analysis spreadsheets. Sales,To financial, dopreparation, filing, special projects, list,calendar and office management. meeting &Profile: presentation A µ µ y HI$ 212-398-0689 DIRECTOR OF etc. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agc 450 7th Ave. (AGCY) 268-6123 y OPERATIONS/MIS A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. WHITE + WARREN Lg co seeksbranded exp’d sleepwear/loungewear. creativea must. Some travel. Comp individ for DSGNR - JR/MISSY SLEEPWEAR Designer to $80K. Currentor exp. in yng boys hang mens. w/ Bugle 4-20. boy,ba Skate Streetwear. board, Union Must DESIGN Seeking Full Time6 Designer with years over experienceKnit Division. for Individual Casual/Leisure creative must be and highly fromconcept able to sourcing toall and execute overseeing designs fittingsproduction. Candidate fromprotoshighly motivated, must full thruteam player. Fax resume only to: of also passion bulk and be a Growing ladies sportswear company needs Director of Operations/MIS. Strong IT skills & importing required. Good communication & people skills. Excellent salary & fringes. For further info, please e-mail your resume in strict confidence to: [email protected] lecareers.com y (212) 564-3742 @st Account Execs y Send resume to Buyers/Allocators Designer Fax: 212-398-2086 Att: Dora [email protected] Bets Designers/Asst Designers Health Benefits, 401(k) Plan. Product Developers/Managers Compensation: Competitive Salary, ork with other development staff on ll qualified applicants should send ironment. Fax resume: DESIGNER - SWEATER E-mail: materials, color, graphics, andes from concept to final product. process- REQUIREMENTS: •Minimum of three years experience designing innovative products; back pack design experience a plus •Proficiency in Macintosh platform systems. •Professional attitude. their resumes with salary history to: Long establishedSweater Designer. Importin Must technical Co. be flatJr., proficient sketching, seeks specing Missy for preparing & technical Extra pkgsmfg. Size for Good markets benefits. overseas Excellentv and work en- w Personal Accessory &is Travel seeking Gear a Co. self-motivated, highly driven creative, individualstrong disciplined, illustration with andskills. communication Must possesssign, have a a passion greata flair sense for for of de- style. textureough You and understanding will use oftions; your consumer market thor- needs, condi- cellence and design to ex- tion of travel gear. develop theMust next be genera- ableently to and work as both a independ- teamplayer. You will A l JRS SLEEP (718) 369-0516 Designer Ivonne (212)-391-8027 [email protected] DESIGNER DESIGNER/ DESIGNER [email protected] Designer Home to $125K MERCHANDISER Bedding, Tabletop, Pillows, etc. candidate. Please fax resume to: Allen *Just Mgmt. * 800-544-5878 Designer. Excellent oppty. for right Leading domestic mfr. and importer of men’s sweaters seeks a creative and exp’d bkdg a must. Fax resume attn: Designer $Open$ Missy sportswear import coleast seeks 4 ind w/ yrscut at & exp sew ined, knit swtr bkgd, excellent detail prod communication &skills. dev teamorient- & Will + follow workPhotoshop strong up closely 7 w/ merchandiser. /Illustrator 10 /Word/Exce Hip NYC intimate appareliors co. w/ focus, aindiv. jun- who thinks seeks outmin. of exp. bright, the in box. intimates.identify & 2 Must motivated forecast yrs. be trends & ablety to have to abili- putfinish. Fax res to: 501-423-7539 together a line fromstart to Leadingexperienced childrenswear designer for& our girls co. 4-16 organized, boys detail oriented seeks all and 4-18 aspects work of in final design divisions. frominception production. to Mustexperience Must have 3-5categories & years be andchildren’s knowledge market. fabricationsplus. Fax Resume to: 718-743-5466 Computer of skills in a the hot 26

eiey nweg fA 0 required. 400 AS of LC experienceamust. Knowledge delivery. WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 19, 2003 oioigoesa hpet and ensure to shipments documents and processing overseas scheduling monitoring include individua Responsibilities seeks company w apparel Major •Merchandiser/Designer. Intimates/Jrs •Spec Tech.Intimates/Imports...... $$$$ •Children Designers.Photoshop/Illus...... $60s •Asst Designers,Photoshop/Illus...... $40s experienced be patternmaking Must w necessary. experi- ence patternmaking supervise based Computerized to York department ofmultidivisioncompany needed New Patternmaker fashion in degree design; importexp.aplus. CAD Prefer & for exp. eye knowledge. supervisory skills, color, drawing & good detail exp; mfr. Req. yrs. designer. 5 sportswear retailer/apparel missy seeks Carolina South aiirt ihctlgapproval must. catalog a Import experiencehelpful. etc. specifications, with procedures, Familiarity Salary commensuratewithexperience. HEAD DESIGNER Fax resumeandsalaryrequirements Fax ResumeAttnCarla201-894-1186 KARLYN FASHIONRECRUITERS t iiu er experience. years 3 minimum ith garments. occasion social ith 1-800-487-5429 [email protected] IMPORT MANAGER Outstanding Opportunity Head Patternmaker Email: [email protected] York, NewYork10001,Fax:212-494-6824 and our FMG that join Federated MerchandisingGroup,11PennPlaza,New believe Come resource! We gym valuable start yournewcareertoday! most discounted more. our schedules, are much people work-life much, as work good We and a such flexible memberships with etc. activities you through drives, provide classroom community balance helping clothing to of children, and committed to range skills. are reading training wide management kitchens, and a on-the-job soup technical offers both depth, FMG enhance growth. in to professional and training personal have your on We focus we FMG At travel extensivelyoutsideoftheUnitedStates. operation, MSOffice,andExcel. negotiating skills.ThiscandidateshouldbeproficientinPC merchandising excellent writtenandoralcommunicationskillsstrong & sess strongorganizationalandanalyticalskillsaswell plan style in RetailStore/Buying/ProductDevelopment.Theymustpos- finalized We areseekingamotivatedindividualwhohasexperience on the to of based development design information. the list Manage & commu- production to overseas line (division) Communi- strategies. direction,& & development business customer with line nicate material costs. each share Collaborate production input, all with gather all finalize regularly confirm style. cate & to for & establish & Accountable perform- reservations to program merchandise offices Brand. analyzing by Label & and ance will Private sourcing reporting, Jewelry development, this monitoring, Silver concept, of Sterling the production Alfani for responsible for be Manager Product The of division Manager Product billion a seeking $2 for it’sgrowingSterlingSilverJewelryBusiness. is a Stores, Department Group, Federated Merchandising Federated Fax Resumew/salaryhistoryto: PRODUCTION CAPABILITIES. or [email protected]. Email [email protected] a competitivebenefitspkg. Fax resumeto212-239-2766. in strictestconfidenceto: 201-558-9898att:Sandra IMPORT AGENTWITH Relocation package& STRONG SWEATER HOT JOBS! PRODUCT MANAGER ..... timely $$$$

l ao pae opn seeks exp. company ladies/missys with Must havemassmerchantsexp. apparel individual Major and 3-5 salary Minimum Good benefits package. trends. experience. seeks years forecast company identify to and able wear be Must Merchandiser. infant Major 7, proficient. OS9/X Photoshop Mac, License/Accessory expaplus. design. 10, artwork. Illustrator spec, product, for Sketch, create designs Will original Co. Accessory Girl’s/Tween *Technical Designers&SpecTechs *Sales Assistant-Showroomexp. *Retail Planners-Apparelexp.$HI *Production: Mgrs-CoordsAssists * * *Designers Jrs:1)C/SKnit2)Sweaters *CAD ArtistsMissyorChildrens * V alo mi eueto: resume benefits email & or fax, may salary parties mail Interested great package. partnering detail-oriented Com- A succeed. petitive the to plus. motivated retail individual for a background. opportunity link, of related system/retail of and at years Knowledge with 3 coupled least communication skills organizational possess Brand will our candidate exceptional and right purchasing The act to Mgrs. and link goods a brand, as of by needs, analysis/cost projections margin distribution flow, & inventory an retail/wholesale analysis fill include: sales to Duties Product busy area. Planner its in Inventory opening immediate looking an is frames for optical of distributor resume withsalaryrequirementsto: facturing processes.Pleasefaxyour and goodunderstandingofallmanu- thorough knowledgeofExcelrequired, Excellent organizationalskills, coordination withoff-shoresourcing. woven min. 5to6yearsofexp.production both ProductionCoord./Merchandiser for bottoms andcute&sewtops. sourcing off-shore Manager Sourcing VIVA InternationalGroup Call (212)643-8090;fax643-8127(agc License GraphicDesigner Large andexpandingjeanswear MERCHANDISER/SALES Product Mgr/Coord-liaisondsgn&prod’n Designers -AssistsAssocBoyorGirl Artists: V nentoa ru,amajor a Group, International IVA Email: cgrobeln sportswear companyislookingfor They mustbeableto Please faxresumeto212-239-2766 3140 Rt22W,Somerville,NJ08876 MERCHANDISER candidates fortwopositions: Email: [email protected] JOBS Fax resumeto212-239-2766 Attn: Beck INVENTORY attn: HRDept-JobPIP, Boys orGirlsMissyJuniors Fax: 908-595-6217. PLANNER y @vivagroup.com EOE y 212-239-0063 ihgo x.in exp. good with with y ) eeae sytsse.Growth indi- Please system. applicant. cate salaryrequirements. right computer for Assyst with oppty proficient plus. generated be a experience Should Wal-Mart yrs. exp. Co. 5 min. patternmaker. Sportswear production Children’s needs based N.J. hard be seeks Must same. and the co. conscious w be quality We must and expert. you fit import production very ON" are growing "HANDS Fast loca- digitize, NJ involved. tion. Faxresumeto:732-775-8089 Specs to mark. & grade LECTRA Patternmaker seeking Computer co. wear Children’s showroom. Mustbecomputerliterate. W aaiiis laefxrsm salar & requirements toBobGreenberg at: resume fax Please capabilities. extremely be Must and Analyst. women’ Planner Retail seeks and company men’s accessory growing Rapidly in op. retail/whsle a w Barth, St. Calypso production dressmaking. & and industry experience. Minimum 5years first tailoring patterns, in Specializing production dressmaking. & and industry experience. Minimum 5years first tailoring patterns, in Specializing rfcetadvre nprojections multi-task in and replenishment versed EDI and and computer oriented, proficient numbers ganized, o nbs ed toganalytical Strong reqd. bus. skills &Excelproficiency. in Bache- & lor allocation. PerformSKU investment in & targets. turns. segments, inventory margin bus. exp. of maximizing gross analysis for & yrs. Resp. re- plans, inventory/ 5+ / ceipt sales OTB, managing devel. w/ & incl. Duties indiv. planning/allocation. seeks exp. sal- and yrs letter ar 5 cover resume, Min. fax sup- Please customers. with communicate and to pliers able be and N busy in assist to wanted self-starter PATTERNMAKER OFFICE ASSISTANT PATTERNMAKER &SAMPLEMAKER PATTERNMAKER &SAMPLEMAKER mns e’ hlrnsclothing children’s & men’s omen’s, oriented, systems and detail orking, l-raie,mlits oriented, multi-task ell-organized, PATTERNMAKER y rc uigo iia xeineams!Salary must! & a experience verbal, salary similar e- mailto with to confidence resume, written, Off- in your or history, Fax required. experience. PLUS with travel buying commensurate analytical, to Gifts, buying Willingness price off-price Shoes, skills. negotiation, Men’s, of or decision-making in yrs experience) Accessories, buyer 5 strong assistant Children’s, least years Women’s, 2 at (or have experience powered, must Candidates high office corporate WV Morgantown recruiting our located 90minsouthofPittsburgh,PA. in located actively are positions is and retailers, self-starting, price Inc Brothers, Gabriel to place great a for of Looking quality living? better enjoy of a and benefits cost start orraiseafamily?Looknofurtherthanthe Want and lower salary move? competitive a a a Want make life? to Looking Please faxresumeto:908-351-9433 requirementsto212-288-1520. y - RetailAnalyst PATTERNMAKER

Planner/Allocator Fax resumeto:973-856-9395 EASTERN SILKMILLS,INC. [email protected] Fax resumeto: Fax resumeto: ugdWearhouse Rugged - Planner (212) 213-4296 [email protected] ues&Assistants & Buyers Pittsburgh PAarea! 212-921-2850 212-921-2850 Morgantown WV- ,oeo mrc’ ats rwn off- growing fastest America’s of one .,

45 5-23At:Jobs Attn: 952-7263 (425) merchandiseorganization.These or- Y y s r n gns utb eyorganized very be and havestrongfollow-upskills. Must agents. and manufactur- ers overseas com- with Daily orders. cost- munication bulk plac- and on schedules, sample action Work ing and delivery. timing o ing, final phases to all develop- ment initial in from involved production import be to oriented detail people experienced, company seeking is sportswear moderate Ladies W Excellent helpful. compensation andbenefits. contractors do- with mestic working Experience skills required. development wovens Product and necessary. knits production. cotton production in Knowledge garment bulk coordinate to fromsampling to al seeks Midtown individu- (English/Cantonese) in bilingual importer/manufacturer apparel women’s of label Private resume Fax necessary. a office) not is w experience but of years plus (Microsoft 1-2 growth. for computer literate. oriented and detail paced and be on fast organized Must a up in environment. production follow of highly phases to all individual is a motivated company blouse seeking women’s Leading W n oe arc swl scomplete knit as well of our as knowledge ofgarmentconstruction. handling fabrics should woven in join and Candidate knowledge to have team. Patternmaker Production highly seeks skilled Mfr sportswear moderate or color 1-212-221-7064 @ great Send Cathy email [email protected] must. to have a be resume experience & Must Excel line. sense. oriented 4-16 placement girls detail & for embroidery approvals trim, print, PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Production Coordinato Apparel Staffin PRODUCTION ASST. FOR KNITS&WOVENS To placeoverseasorders&followup. / salar l nw ae n rvt label private and label known ell doing w/design directly work ill PRODUCT MANAGER Please faxresumeto212-302-4193 Major AccessoryMfr.Immedhire Strong comm.&computerskills. PATTERNMAKER o its for COORDINATOR Fax resumeto212-840-7742. Production Asst Fax resumesto212-704-0784 PRODUCTION PRODUCTION

y emlyr ra opportunit Great Teamplayer. Attn:Import Production requirementto:212-382-3398 Fax:212-382-1916 are rs Inc. Bros. Gabriel g, Ltd.Fax(212)302-1161 or r y f nei nofc niomn must. a environment office Please Fax/EmailresumetoHal: an in ence ue nweg n 1-3 and knowledge puter Com- activities. development product all ual individ- oriented detail Textiles motivated, Home seeks of importer growing Fast skills. communication good Excellent computerskillsnecessary. have & orient- ed detail maintaining be Must on work account. Walmart Executive to Account available w/ position level Entry and opportuni- ty forrightperson. Amazing salary management package. Exc. retail benefits yrs, required. 3 for experience enthusi- of flair & Min in- asm. energy skills, should boundless selling strong fashion, Attributes Strong possesses clude: who skills. mgr people seek- retail is ing boutique Ave Madison Luxury salary including a resumes including history andrequirementsto:212-842-3217 fax consideration, package please immediate compensation For plan. excellent benefits 401(k) an and offer We goods, leather of experienced facility. and extremelydetailoriented. aspects be quality NJ the must in Edison, candidate ideal its The is for Control copmany Inspector Quality experienced accessories an seeking leather Fine fax Pls procedures. QC QC resume: M.Shapiro@914-934-0296 measurements; & garment, spec sampling garment famil- time be with Must iar Mgr. QC part assist to person exp seeks Importer Westchester Well-established 212-213-5073/[email protected] Quality ControlInspector Garments-Part Time eofracmeiieslr n necletbnft akg.Some package. benefits excellent an and hit salary to competitive ability travel required.Manhattanlocation. a the with offer trends, We retail individual aesthetic and an market for current target pricepoints. inception looking of the are knowledge We from meetings with presentation. you and line as through projects skills, stage spearheadingmultiple presentation and be outstandingcomputer will possess must You creatingtime include all will oversee lingerie; lines, meetingdeadlines,generatingandmaintainingdepartmentbudget. Responsibilities and or development. manage product dresses, to of skills sportswear, aspects managerial either and a in organizational have proven experience must with currently years candidate 5 are right of The distribu- We Manager. minimum various chains. Development with Product and a businesses, stores seeking label includingdepartment divisions, private channels, several & tion with licensed manufacturingwholesaler include multi-faceted which a are We 10 are over people for lead to operations ability an successful Show- and York a must.Minimumof10-15yearsintheindustryisrequired. enjoyed New knowledge, a Industry has with years. based and England next New room is the company profita- Our opportu- find established, your well be to a may this of keen so, part where nity ofalifetime! a If and be company? have to entrepreneurial know dresswear want ble you you Do dynamic and Do level? trends? established, sense next well the merchandising to a company lead sportswear you Can ae oetae eurd xeln iaca compensation financial account current Excellent seasoned expand required. for therightindividual. to dynamic, travel Department vision Some and Seeking high-end base. drive to required. the with selling stores individual an experience Mini- Specialty have years skills. a must and 7 communication fill Individual superior of to company. and mum our level starter taste in self excellent position Saks, energetic Neiman’s, sales seeks to key Bergdorf’s selling and firm Barney’s Accessory Home Fashionable Please faxresumeto:212-239-2766 SALES ASSISTANT Product DevelopmentManager Sales Assistant All resumesheldinthestrictestconfidence.PleaseE-mailto: ohl oriaewt customers with coordinate help to requirements to:212-452-4350 Fax allresumeswithsalary RETAIL SALES Quality Control- Interested candidateswhomeetourrequirements MANAGER Please sendresumeandsalaryhistoryto: shouldfaxresumesto:(212)695-8803 We offeranexcellentcompensationand [email protected] ore-mail:[email protected] benefits packageincluding401K. DIVISION HEAD SALES EXECUTIVE er experi- years New York,NY10001 Women’s WearDaily 7 West34thStreet Box#1044 ae3yaso nutyexperience industry of years 3 have uthv xeln nweg o knowledge excellent have Must pc,pten,fittings compensation andbenefits patterns, specs, person seeks co w apparel children’s Large garments. a Spec construction and garment must. Pleasefaxresumeto:212-944-4300 Sketch of be Knowledge to Should experience. with able years person 3 seeks Sizes minimum Large Junior, and Missy Sportswear, Dresses, of Importer cover resumes, letter anddesiredsalaryto: submit can- should didates Interested sel strong with skills. teamplayer, oriented communication back- a detail and be making starter Must strong pattern ground. a and o and technical knowledge envi- specifications, design based garment technical Broad a 3-5 ronment. in and fashion exp. required years equivalent in or Bachelors design preferred. experi- woven ence and Knit through. follow v A oriente detail and and persistent. organized well should o samples, approval Applicant timely customers customer. of by for to samples follow-up review samples and sample of technical of forwarding arranging for follow-up factory, for with and tickets arranging cutting factory o o issuance to tracking preparation, materials, pattern trim, in-house purchasing and sample fabric includes sample Position tnad o opn i n n Q any spec and meet fit company garments for ensuring standards Responsi- for plus. domestic ble a resources both overseas with & working perience kthsadcrepnec oall to correspondence technical packages, spec and provides technical sketches via Merchandising Position support our in Tech- Dept. Level Designer Sr. a nical a has Boston, for of opportunity Shore great North the on co. SusieJessil Technical Designer-Senio TD SpecTech TechnicalDesigner All Markets nosfrMrhniigTa.Ex- Team. Merchandising for endors for PrivateLabelMfr Email resume:[email protected] $40-65K xesv xeinew asretailers mass w/ experience extensive / peeds oe’ pae catalog apparel women’s a ppleseed’s, NY NJ Sample Coordinator Technical Designer Fax resumeto:212-279-6817 [email protected] or FREELANCE Via fax:(978)922-7001 y [email protected] Call212-947-3400 Senior EOE package. t.Excellen etc. should A r d f f f f f f , t . WWD, WEDNESDAY, MARCH 19, 2003 - 27 t y .** y ates 866-204-8412 Fax resume to: 905-513-0380 T: 212-876-2899 SALES PRO 212-585-1119 Couture Sales-Management Email: [email protected] Retail/Showroom seeks Sales reps in all regions. Lingerie Sales Pro client list. Polished appearance. ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** RETAIL OPPORTUNITIES sales-marketing skills, extensive Excellent Experience with strong AMAZING MENSWEAR RETAIL AMAZING MENSWEAR OPPORTUNITIES FOR: 1. Managers 2. Senior Sales Associ Please fax resume Attn: Kim 3-5 yearsexperience, of withcustomer following. men’s a retail strong Better contemporary manufacturer . 39th St. bldg. seeking 2 lines. Loyal Updated Missy Lines Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc INDEPENDENT REP Sales Reps Wanted High Comm./All Territories F/T or P/T. 25 years exp. in Evening & market knowledge. Call (212) 686-4607 Highly experienced, strong productive Bridal. All phases. Call 516-873-7377 Fitter / Production following. Fax info: 212-944-7201 Updated Missy Sales RepW in prominen Seeksloungewear showroomsales, and daywear.tacts sleepwear, Strong with con- Dept.,Chain stores. Call John: 516-536-8576. Specialty and Major Contemporary missy lineMust have contacts. Call Sales Rep wtd. Growing CanadianSportswear Ladies Contemporar cover Co. seeks the independentLarge commissions. rep Midwest. to Must have following. TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? , Squeeze seeking experi- world wide for 212-719-9167 Contemporary Designer SALES EOE/M/F/D/V (212) 921-1076 SALES , a hot new div of WALTER SALES PRO Fax resume to 212-768-7773 . Fax Resume to 212-391-2485 Excellent salary and benefits. Please fax resume 212-997-4186. EASTERN SILK MILLS, INC. SALES POSITION Please fax resume: 908-351-9433 è Better Contemporary Sportwear SALES POSITIONS SALES EXECUTIVE HELEN WANG, INC. Sportswear Sales Sales Partner Wanted opportunity for Sr. Account Executive. Sales Executive (LA & NY) SENIOR SALES EXEC Women’s sportswear/apparel co.strong seeks salesyrs. person. sales Minimum exp. Mustgood people skills. Please fax resume: of be organized, 3-5 with Sally Mack seeks a dynamo7-16 for girls sportswear its line.contacts trendy, better with Musttunity have all for majors. Greatbenefits oppor- a and true ament. great go (work working getter.resume in environ- Excellent in NYC confidence:email: [email protected] 732-729-9899 showroom) or Fax Seeking highly energetic,salesperson self-motivated for showroom. Some US travel required. Sales $ Hi Open. Current exp. selling girls sportswear or dresses to JC Penney or Target. NY based not nec. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy Sales $ Hi Open. Current exp. selling girls sportswear or dresses to JC Penney or Target. NY based not nec. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy Domestic/Import mfrlabel pro. Fax resume 212-278-8357. seeks private Import Co seeksto a motivated join salesstrong pro our rel women’sstores. w/ Good div. dept, compensationFax resume w/ sal req to 212-391-8303. & Must chain benefits. & have specialty Excellent opportunity tocontemporary join sportswear a house.candidate better Ideal muststore have strong following,be a self-starter. Company benefits! specialty be goal oriented and Special ocassion suitsseeks & gowns salesperson designer ence w/5-7 and years stronging. Fax resume to: specialty experi- store follow- Zen Sport by Danskin enced saleslead manager.strategize Will business field growth. Must direct beergetic, en- organized, & salesskills, w/strong and follow-up willing force, towell versed travel. in Have better towell specialty plan, be as stores better as departmentpetitive stores. & Com- compensationpackage. [email protected] to (212) 930-9103. E-mail Fax benefits resumes to Established silk importer2 & mfr candidates seeks tiles. Energetic, with motivated experienceto individuals work in in tex- We offer salary + commission. our L.A. & N.Y. showroom. l s to for

(New York) c.com (646) 443-3517 y of regional markets critical. @ (609) 895-1113 212-730-0101 known, respected and have strongrelationships with ma- y 212-944-0898 hert g No one makes better fitting contemporary pants. No one makes better fitting contemporary Chloe (212) 268-8320 (212) 354-9155 SR. ACCOUNT SALES EXECUTIVE SR. ACCOUNT SALES PHILADELPHIA stake down the road. All resumes held in confidence. G.A.S. CO. SEARLE PERRY ELLIS INTERNATIONAL PERRY ELLIS (Based in New York or Southern California) (Based in New Fax: (212) 382-1791; email: [email protected] This is a career opportunity all the way with an ownership This is a career opportunity all the way Please specify position and fax your resume to: Please specify position and B.A.D - Body Action Design B.A.D - Body Action K. Dou ASSISTANT ACCOUNT SALES EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT ACCOUNT Madison Avenue boutique. Store Managers/ y requirements (212) 717-2193 . Must be well NO PHONE CALLS PLEASE VP NATIONAL SALES MANAGER VP NATIONAL SALES Please fax resume and salary Sales Executive Assistant Managers or email to info@searlen Fax your resume to: 212-764-4524 oriented sales associate to join our Seeking a highly motivated, detail B.A.D is a nationally acclaimed brand well known with retailers The ideal candidateket will have a mininimum of 5 years experience in our mar- our styling using fabrics containing Lycra Based inexp. NY buying/selling orplus. Southern major High motivation California. accounts. andapply. Bad attitude need not Word and Powerpoint. Min. energy Specialty a 5 must. store Proficiency years in exp. apparel Excel, a 2-3 yearsmotivated Executive and energized. not apply. and Powerpoint. Bad attitude need Assistant Extremely proficient experience in Excel, required. Word Highly Fax resume to Donald 212-382-2549. Please fax resume to (212) 268-8320 ork in New York showroom. Must FT/PT Management. Self-motivated, NICOLE MILLER Mar jors. Understanding professional, exp’d in retail sales only. Sales Asst./Order Entry Private Label Sales Pro Salary + commission. Pls. fax resume Knit & Woven Tops Ladies’/Missy/Petite/Large Sizes RETAIL SALES have better Specialtyexperience. and Private Dept.traveling label store required. exp.for right person! Please fax resume to: Great a plus. opportunity Established women’s sweater line seek- ing energetic,w motivated, go-getter to Seeking Sales ProMust for have strong N.Y. dept./chain showroom. storetacts. For appt., call: con- Est’d. Mfr. is seekingLabel an Acctount Exp’d. Exec. Private Strongtionships store and rela- following aprovide must. design, We mfg., can and technical service strong management.tunity Great for oppor- theFax resume to: right individual. Please Retail Sales Opportunities areindividuals available for withties. ambitious strong Attributes leadership shouldenergy combine quali- boundless andfashion enthusiasmwith merchandisingThree and a people years flairexperience skills. of for in prior women’s retailare or required. management Excellent men’s salarypackage available. appare and benefits NY basedhigh sweater energy, detail companyto oriented individual work seeks infollowing a a up great withorders. Must be computer literate. atmosphere customers while on sales Established trendysweater and moderate sportswearaggressive company seeks junior salespersonshowroom. Experienced for selling toand Chain our Dept. stores. N.Y. Great opportunity Leading knitsboth import and andexp, domestic co junior aggressive seekssalesperson an sweater sweaters withMay and/or Co, Dept strongrelationships. store knit and Candidate specialty Federated, mustorganized store be and detail well package commensurate with exp. oriented. Salary RETAIL the highly motivated. Fax resume to: ’ a E hard- @JustMgt.com y EOE/M/F/D/V @GersonandGerson.com Sales Assistant y Jud EVERLAST Technical Design to $60K Please call: (212) 564-5202 Please forward resumes to: ACCOUNT EXEC Just Mgmt.* 800-544-5878 Agcy. Account Executive WORLDWIDE INC. CARIBOU, LTD. ord & E-mail knowledge a must. For Apparel and Home Furnishing. Kids exp. Computer literate. Judy * ritten and oral communication skills orking, results-oriented, driven indiv. Please fax resume to: (212) 354-1974 ery fast paced environment. Excel, VISUAL MERCHANDISER Kevin.Gra ARTIST ORIGINAL [email protected] or fax: 212-239-4261. a must. Fax resume: 703-846-8569 v W highlyprofessional. motivated,misses/large Sales energetic sizeMust showroom experience have sales and organizational a excellent skills. in opportunity communication Great plus. career and culture for Leading brandeddetail company orientedorganizational seeks & communication person skills to a with assistadministatrative strong the duties.dle sales Able multiple tasks to teamin and han- a work well daily in a TEXTILE ACCOUNT EXECUTIV Gerson & Gerson, Inc.,Jean maker of & Bonnie Bonnieseeks an Baby enthusiastic, girls’seller growth-oriented dresswear, to join ourdepartment team. stores, Experience with familiarityready of to girls wear,& a strong working computerare all a plus. Please e-mail resume to: knowledge skills of retail math Danskin, Inc., welled established active apparel brand- opening co for has experienced an Accountutive Exec- immediate to develop newally. territories nation- Strongreq. dept Active storesMust have wear background strong retailcount experience planning & management a ac- New skills. plus. Competitive Based compensation &package. York. in benefits [email protected] to (212) 930-9103. Travel E-mail Fax is resumes req. to Caribou, an establishedof manufacturer misses & plus size sportswr seeks w Multi unit salonern chain Virginia based inenced is north- looking forcandidate visual an will experi- years have merchandiser. ainspiring experience minimum Ideal developing of displays,point unique, 5 of promotionsw purchase and materials. Strong 30K plus benefits. WHERE CONNECTIONS ARE MADE AND TRENDS BEGIN. IF YOUR BUSINESS IS FASHION YOUR BUSINESS IS HERE.

AUGUST 25-28, 2003 SANDS EXPO & CONVENTION CENTER REGISTRATION INFORMATION: 218.723.9792 EXHIBIT INFORMATION: 818.593.5000 www.MAGIConline.com WT01