ARMANI PROFITS UP/2 CARREFOUR VS. WAL-MART IN CHINA/13 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ DailyFRIDAY Newspaper • April 11, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 74 $2.00 Beauty Over the Rainbow NEW YORK — The Estée Lauder brand is heading for Fantasy Island with its newest women’s scent, Beyond Paradise, which will begin rolling out in August. The fragrance, which signals a number of departures for the venerable brand, could do more than $100 million at retail globally in its first year. For more, see page 6.

Alibis Abound as Comp-Store Sales in March Lay a Big Egg

KENNY By Jennifer Weitzman and Evan Clark public’s interest by war worries, Even in Easter-deprived BRYN Y B NEW YORK — Stores lost the battle for wintry weather and a lack of must- condition, a number of stores — Gap, consumers’ attention in March. have items, apparel retailers limped Pacific Sunwear and Chico’s notable STYLED They certainly had enough across the finish line in March with among them — outperformed the competition. Deprived of Easter few positive same-store results and competition and delivered solid IANNACCONE; revenues by the calendar and of the more than a few double-digit declines. See March, Page 5 THOMAS

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2003 Armani Sales Boost On the Block? 11, LVMH Mum WWDFRIDAY Beauty APRIL , Annual Profits 9.7% On Sale Talks GENERAL War worries, wintry weather and the late Easter proved undefeatable foes By Amanda Kaiser NEW YORK — LVMH Moët Hen- FRIDAY Giorgio for March same-store sales, which finished below year-ago levels. nessy Louis Vuitton has de- 1 Armani MILAN — Double-digit sales in- clined comment on reports cir- Estée Lauder is launching Beyond Paradise, a fragrance it wants to push creases in jeans, watches, cos- culating in the market that at into the top five — which means sales around $100 million after a year. WWD, 6 metics and perfumes allowed least two cosmetics companies Double-digit sales gains in jeans, watches, cosmetics and perfumes allowed Giorgio Armani to post a 9.7 per- are talking about possibly ac- cent increase in pretax profits quiring the beauty licenses of 2 Giorgio Armani to post a 9.7 percent increase in pre-tax profits last year. last year despite less robust Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs and Andrea Pinto unexpectedly left Krizia this week after having been back at growth in other parts of its ap- Kenneth Cole from LVMH. 2 the company just eight months, WWD has learned. parel business. According to reports, Estée Armani’s pretax profit for the Lauder is negotiating for the Kors SUZY: The American Academy in Rome’s gala; more on the Russell Crowe- year ended Dec. 31 rose to $214.5 license, although there is no 4 Danielle Spencer merger; Jude and Sadie make up; Cornelia comes home. million from $196.2 million. sense of certainty at this point Sales advanced 2.3 percent to that any of the talks will be fruit- Obituary ...... 14 $1.4 billion from $1.37 billion, in ful. A spokeswoman for Lauder Classified Advertisements...... 15 line with preliminary figures re- declined comment on the grounds To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is leased earlier this year, but slow- that “the company does not com- [email protected], using the individual's name.

er than the 5 percent growth in ment on rumors.” That was the SUBSCRIPTION RATES the first half of 2002. Dollar fig- same position taken by LVMH and U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. ures are converted from the euro the third company mentioned in All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; at current exchange rates. speculation, Coty Inc. outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 Giorgio Armani, president, Coty reportedly has ex- Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. chief executive and owner of the pressed an interest in possibly WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. privately held designer house, acquiring the Marc Jacobs and a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. said he was optimistic that the Kenneth Cole licenses. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., company will continue to deliver Jacobs figures prominently in a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, positive results despite tough buoyant times again as there al- the LVMH stable, as chief design- including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be times, but declined to offer spe- ways are. In the meantime, er of Louis Vuitton and the luxu- expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 cific forecasts. being successful means being ry giant holds a major stake in Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 “I never try to be involved in practical in answering the real his fashion firm. LVMH divested GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 making predictions on the econ- needs of your customers.” its stake in Kors in January. Printed in the U.S.A. omy,” he said in an interview. Earnings before interest, Fragrances by all three design- All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of “What is important to me is to taxes, depreciation and amortiza- ers are distributed and marketed WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. run the business in a way that is tion rose 7.2 percent to $283.5 by the American Designer Fra- For Web site access, log on to www.WWD.com prudent and appropriate to the million from $265.2 million in grances division of Parfums current market conditions.” 2001. A company spokesman said Givenchy Inc. According to indus- However, in a reference to net profit for the year, which is try estimates, the two main fra- the difficult trading conditions expected to be released later, grances by Kors — a women’s and In Brief currently affecting world mar- also rose about 7.2 percent. a men’s — generated a combined kets, he noted, “Any brand that is “I look to the future with confi- $31 million in U.S. retail sales last interested in building its busi- dence in the strength of the brand year, while the two limited-distri- FERRAGAMO’S ASIAN DEAL: Salvatore Ferragamo SpA and ness over the long term has to be and in our proven strategy for ex- bution Jacobs brands generated Hong Kong trading giant Li & Fung Ltd. have formed a joint ven- able to manage through econom- pansion, which has achieved a 14 $20 million. Kenneth Cole’s men’s ture to manage the Italian company’s accessories and clothing ic cycles. There will be more Continued on page 11 and women’s master brand re- business in Southeast Asia. The new entity is named Ferragamo portedly brought in $21 million. Singapore Pte. Ltd. Previously Li & Fung served as Ferragamo’s Meanwhile, speculation resur- distributor in the area, where there are currently nine Ferragamo faced that John Idol, chairman boutiques. The company declined to disclose details of the deal. and chief executive of Kasper ASL, was heading to Michael GUCCI’S JAPAN PLAN: Gucci will open a 10,800-square-foot China, Vietnam Imports Soar Kors. Idol firmly denied the talk flagship in Tokyo’s Ginza district in spring 2005, underscoring the Thursday. group’s intention to strengthen its presence in Japan. The build- ing housing the store, acquired by Gucci for an undisclosed sum, will also provide 41,040 square feet of office space for the group’s As Pressure on Limits Rises Japan headquarters, common space and parking areas. “Japan is the most important market in the luxury goods industry,” said as U.S. and Vietnam trade officials A Very Short Stay: Domenico De Sole, president and chief executive of the group, in By Joanna Ramey a statement. “Gucci will benefit enormously — both strategically and Kristi Ellis met for the second day in Wash- ington to negotiate terms for the Andrea Pinto Exits and financially — from this initiative.” The Gucci brand has WASHINGTON — China and U.S. to impose quotas on Viet- seven freestanding stores and 37 in-store shops in Japan; other Vietnam continued to dominate namese shipments. U.S. officials labels in the group have 65 directly operated stores, and YSL textile and apparel import growth have threatened to unilaterally set Krizia — Again Beauté has 65 corners in department stores throughout the coun- in February, the Commerce De- limits if this second round of talks try. Last year, Gucci posted sales of $538.1 million (converted from euros at the current exchange rate) in Japan, which ac- partment reported Thursday, as fails to produce an agreement by By Luisa Zargani agency officials came under today. The U.S. can set limits be- counted for about 20 percent of total group sales. stepped-up pressure from U.S. cause Vietnam isn’t a World Trade In an on-again-off- MILAN — textile interests and Capitol Hill Organization member. again relationship, Andrea Pinto CHANGES AFOOT: Sergio Rossi said Massimo Braglia left his lawmakers to quickly limit ship- The February report also unexpectedly left Krizia this position as chief executive officer. Braglia joined Sergio Rossi at ments from these countries. added fuel to the domestic tex- week after having been back at the end of 1999, when Gucci Group took control of the high-end In response, U.S. apparel and tile industries’ push for the the company just eight months, footwear firm. A Gucci spokesman declined to comment on the textile import officials, includ- Bush administration to impose WWD has learned. departure. Marco Gentile, the company’s chief financial officer, ing major retailers, are counter- quotas on several thriving Chi- Pinto rejoined the company will replace Braglia in the interim. ing with concerns that their nese imports. The U.S. is al- last July as general manager sizeable sector could be ignored lowed to unilaterally impose after a seven-year hiatus. He is by overly restrictive and hastily limits on Chinese textiles and the son of Aldo Pinto and step- applied quotas. apparel as specified in China’s son of Mariuccia Mandelli, the “Our industry is very unhap- 2001 agreement to join the WTO, husband-and-wife team that Correction py,” said Julia Hughes, vice presi- while quotas for other WTO founded Krizia in 1954. Arie Kopelman’s name was misspelled in a story on page 3, dent of international trade with countries will expire in 2005. During an interview in Thursday. the U.S. Association of Importers “I don’t think surging is the February, Andrea Pinto joked of Textiles & Apparel. right word,” said Cass Johnson, with Mandelli and said he was For months, China and Viet- associate vice president of inter- “really happy to be back.” WWDStock Market Index for April 10 nam have led all foreign coun- national trade with the Ameri- Although Mandelli is a tries in accelerating imports and can Textile Manufacturers In- hands-on designer and manager, prominently figured in the over- stitute, regarding China’s import she said she was looking for- Composite: 104.89 Broadline Stores: 106.37 Softline Stores: 100.68 all 17.5 percent 12-month in- growth. “It’s exploding.” ward to shifting some of the at- crease registered in February for For the first two months of tention to Andrea. She added all imported textiles and apparel. the year, imports from China that she considered the younger 1.82 Specifically, according to the rose 131.54 percent, while im- Pinto to be part of a succession 1.94 3.37 latest available data, Chinese ap- ports from Vietnam surged 1,122 plan for the brand. parel and textile imports surged percent. “I like to follow the company Vendors: 102.63 Textiles: 86.08 128.63 percent to 532 million By contrast, apparel and tex- as much as I can, but it’s not Index base of 100 is square meters and Vietnamese tile imports from Mexico, the true that I want to be at the cen- keyed to closing prices imports climbed 843 percent to second-largest supplier of appar- ter of it all,” Mandelli said in of Dec. 31, 2002. 66 million SME. el and textiles to the U.S. behind that interview. “That’s why 0.37 -0.60 Thursday’s import tally came Continued on page 13 Continued on page 11 INTRODUCING RALPH LAUREN GLAMOUROUS

DAYLIGHT 4 Roman Holiday Sadie Frost Thaws Hats Off to Treacy

2003

11, Mercedes The London story goes Bass that Jude Law and his wife, Sadie Frost, are on the APRIL

, mend. She has calmed down from all her nerves and it is said that Gwyneth Paltrow FRIDAY has done wonders with her counseling on the set of

WWD, “The World of Tomorrow,” where she is working with Jude and Sadie, who is one of the movie’s producers.

y Meanwhile, Jude has been offered $10 million to star in the remake of “Alfie,” which originally starred Michael Caine as the Cockney rogue misogynist. This is a big surprise to Hollywood insiders because Brad Pitt had been considered all but

z signed for the role of the rotter. Jude is also the front- runner to play the Caine role as a hairdresser in “Sleuth,” the 1972 hit that also starred Laurence Olivier in the role that Michael Caine is now set to take. What comes around, seems to come around. Cornelia Guest has packed up her house in London’s Belgravia and is back at the family home in Old Westbury with a kennel full of dogs and a stable full of horses. She says it’s for good, however long that may prove to be. Fresh from L.A. and the birthday party she gave for Sir Elton John, Cornelia’s calendar is filled with glamorous doings. Last

Su night, she went to the Ringling Bros. and Barnum By Aileen Mehle & Bailey Circus with her friends and especially Nicole The American Academy in Feld, whose father, Rome is a famously Kenneth, owns the whole esteemed and cherished kit and caboodle, including eye® refuge for American the elephants. Today, she’s Lady Barbara Black artists, writers, busy calling friends to come composers, musicians, architects and to her party at Bergdorf professors of all talented stripes. There, and Henry Kissinger, Doda Voridis of Goodman next Tuesday for Philip Treacy, one of the in the beautiful Villa Aurelia high on a Athens in caramel-colored charmeuse world’s top milliners. Among those expected are Nan Roman hill surrounded by millions of and pearls (such pearls!), Jan Cowles, Kempner, Emilia Fanjul, William Ivey Long, Mark Badgley flowers, these fortunate few are free to Barbara Goldsmith, Mica Ertegun, and James Mischka, and a lot more just like them. peacefully hone and polish their gifts Fernanda Kellogg, Catie and Donald Philip hasn’t been in town for quite some time, and among their peers. It is one swell place. Marron, Duane Hampton, Liz and everyone is dying to see him. He’s going to be holed up The Academy’s Board of Trustees is Damon Mezzacappa, Boaz Mazor, on the fourth floor of Bergdorf’s practically from dawn to impressive — Michael Sovern is its Georgette Mosbacher in black satin and dusk next Tuesday. It’s double duty because with the 21st chairman and the decorative and paillettes, Wendy and Bill Luers, John Annual Central Park Conservancy lunch on May 7 cultivated Adele Chatfield-Taylor is its Richardson, Kenneth Jay Lane and on celebrating the 150th birthday of the Park, hats — the president, and each year, Sid and and on into the night. more whimsical, the better — are de rigeur, and everyone Mercedes Bass, the Fort Worth is clamoring for something special to plop on their little philanthropist and his stunningly Sick of the Russell Crowe-Danielle heads, including this year’s co-chairs Dina Merrill, Calvert fashionable wife, underwrite a grand Spencer wedding overkill? Well, stick Moore, Marcia Mishaan, Liz Peck and Wendy Carduner, dinner at Cipriani 42nd Street that lures around for a little more. Russell is all who all have been invited to check out the wildly the glitterati, the culturati and those who gladiator and nobody’s fool. Word from inventive chapeaus of Mr. Treacy. Mad hatters, all of them bask in their proximity. It is the Australia has it that he and blushing — but you knew that. Academy’s primary fundraiser. bride Danielle signed a prenuptial This year’s dinner honored Great agreement before they went to Milan to Supposedly, John Travolta is still kicking himself for American Composers and Their Music meet Giorgio Armani and try on their missing his chance to take the Richard Gere role in — Elliott Carter, who received the wedding outfits. It is said Danielle is “Chicago,” which he actually turned down three times. Centennial Medal, Samuel Barber and guaranteed a minimum of $15 million if He’s determined not to make the same mistake again, so Aaron Copland, all associated at one time she stays married to Russell for at least to that end, he is getting himself back in peak shape with with AAR. The renowned violinist, three years. In addition, there will be $3 two-hour workouts every day and has already lost more Robert McDuffie, played selections from million trust funds established for each of than 25 pounds. He now looks fit enough for another each composer. The honorary chairmen their children practically the moment fashion statement, which any talented costume designer of the evening were, of course, the Adele Chatfield-Taylor they’re born, which might be happening can easily create for remakes of “Guys and Dolls” and “Pal Italian ambassador to the U.S., Sergio sooner than you think, if Burnum Joey,” two of the musicals that he hopes to star in. Oh, Vento, and Giorgio Radicati, Italy’s consul general in New Burnum, the aborigine witch doctor Russell brought in to John’s wild again, but hardly a whimpering, simpering York, and in the crowd, such stars and satellites could be perform an ancient fertility rite at their wedding on his child again. seen as Lord and Lady Black (she is the ever-alluring ranch in Australia, has anything to do with it. Danielle will Even Pierce Brosnan has got the musical bug and is Barbara Amiel, he is the newspaper tycoon), Carolina and also get their new $8 million penthouse overlooking saying he’s “gotta sing,” his pet project being “to record an Reinaldo Herrera, John Guare (the renowned playwright Sydney Harbor. But let’s let them get back from their album of Irish folk songs, some of which have not been who is married to Adele Chatfield-Taylor), Anna Wintour honeymoon before we begin thinking about something so heard for years.” For those who heard him croon in his last and Shelby Bryan, Annette and Oscar de la Renta, Nancy terribly crass as money, shall we? film, “Evelyn,” perhaps there’s a good reason. 5 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 11, 2003 (4.4 TJX Ross Value ShopKo Stein Mart Factory Factory 2-U Stores (8.4 percent), (5 percent), (down 2 percent), (15.3 percent). said comps fell 12.9 percent Wall Wall Street had the firm In April, the Target division Other decliners in the realm Cos. Inc. Stores Inc. Stores Inc. Inc. in March and that earnings per share in the first quarter would range from 7 to 9 cents. outlook for April, we are unlike- ly to fully achieve our profit plan in the comps Total first quarter.” in February. slid 1.4 percent of 40 cents a pegged for earnings quarter. share in the first is looking for a comp upswing of 4 to 6 percent, with the firm’s overall result trailing the lead division by 1 percentage point. of value retailing included Inc. City Department Stores Inc. percent) and March 2003 February 2003 March 2002 % of Change % of Change % of Change ’s overall same- MARCH SAME-STORE SALES “Sales for the corporation Some warm-weather goods In April, Wal-Mart is looking Target Corp. DEPARTMENT STORES DEPARTMENT Bon-TonDillard's Elder-Beerman FederatedGottschalksKohl's Field's Marshall Co.May Mervyn's MarcusNeiman Nordstrom (8.4) (2.9)stores)(dept. Penney J.C. (12.0)Group Store Dept. Saks Enterprises (6.5)Ave. Fifth Saks (6.4)stores) (U.S. Roebuck Sears (6.1) (3.8) (14.5)StoresStage 3.0 0.4 CHAINS SPECIALTY (11.4) (5.5) (6.8) (0.5) (1.6)Fitch& Abercrombie (8.0) (0.2) (6.4) (1.8) (8.6) 2.8 Aeropostale (3.1) (1.7) 5.0 stores) (U.S. Eagle American (4.6)TaylorAnn (0.2) (8.9) (2.1) (5.0) RepublicBanana 2.5 (9.2) (11.4) (6.7) Bebe 1.2 (9.4) (15.6)Cache (2.3) 9.1 Cato (10.0) (6.9) (9.3) 6.8 ShoppesCharming (2.0) 2.5 FASChico's 1.4 3.2 Banks& Christopher (4.7) (1.1) (7.6) 0.1 Claire's (4.0) (7.0)ShopsDeb (5.0) (8.2)BarnDress Gadzooks 14.2 stores) (U.S. Gap (3.1) 2.0 (10.5) (6.0) (1.3) Clothing Family Goody's (3.0) (7.0)TopicHot (8.6) (6.0) (12.0)BrandsLimited 12.4 WorkMothers 35.1 (15.2)Navy17.0 Old (9.0) (4.0) Sunwear Pacific (3.0) (10.0) 3.5 (15.2) 3.0 Talbots (6.0) (11.0) 4.9 RetailUnited 5.0 6.0 (14.7) (3.5) Seal Wet 5.0 8.0 Wilsons 12.0 (13.3) 7.0 14.0 6.0 (13.0) (4.0) (11.2)MERCHANTS MASS (3.1) 11.7 10.0 (11.9)Stores2-U Factory 1.3 (12.0) Stores Ross 9.5 8.9 ShopKo 12.0 3.0 13.1 Mart Stein (1.0) 4.0 (12.0) stores) (discount (11.0)Target 2.5 (5.0) 0.8 TJX (27.1) 14.8 City(4.4) Value stores)(discount Wal-Mart 6.0 (7.6) (15.3) 1.2 (13.0) (11.7) 7.6 Tally: (31.5) (12.1)Up 7.5 (1.3) (5.0)Flat (7.7) 10.0 8.0 Down (12.9) (8.4)Total 0.3 3.2 10.6 3.6 (0.5) (3.0) (7.9) (7.6) (10.0) (2.0) (1.2) 2.6 11.0 9.4 9.3 (5.0) 7.6 11 10.7 0 39 50 10.0 11 39 0 50 33 17 0 50 SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS COMPANY SOURCE: DECLINES INDICATE PARENTHESES store sales slid 2.3 percent for the month with a 1.3 percent slide at its discount division pulled down further by an 8 per- cent drop at Mervyn’s and a 6.1 percent compression at Marshall Field’s. continued to be somewhat below plan in March,” noted chairman and chief executive Bob Ulrich, in a statement. “In light of our actual sales performance in February and March, and our were selling, though, with swim- wear outperforming the division- al average at Wal-Mart’s discount stores last month. Intimate appar- of the curve.el was also ahead for its U.S. comps to rise by 5 to 7 percent. de- ’s 3.1 ’s total ’s same-store Stage Stores off 6.4 percent J.C. J.C. Penney Co. ’s uncharacteristi- down 2.9 percent, Dillard’s Inc. The Elder-Beerman ’s total same-store Nordstrom Inc. endured a 15.6 percent The Stores Bon-Ton Inc. pulled down its first-quarter ’s comparable-store sales , parent of Lord & Taylor and , parent of Lord & Taylor Sears, Roebuck & Co. Kohl’s Corp. The Neiman Marcus Group Inc. Declines also defined the re- “Spring seasonal merchan- The “CNN effect,” in which Even retailers with broad Wal-Mart Stores Inc. Comps at For For department stores, March The May Department Stores Federated Department Stores With its 5.5 percent comp re- Thanks to a stronger showing creased 12 percent in March. Saks Inc. sales slid 3.8 percent, including a 0.2 percent dip at its depart- ment store group and an 8.6 per- Avenue. cent fall at Saks Fifth posted a 0.5 percent comp drop, while sales were down 1.7 percent. gional department stores in March, with U.S. comparable-store sales rose 0.7 percent with a 0.3 percent in- crease at its namesake division and a 2.6 percent advance at Sam’s Club. The overall result came in below the firm’s plan for an increase in the low-single- digit range. dise experienced good sales when temperatures were warm,” noted a spokeswoman on recorded a call. “However, unsea- sonably cool temperatures dur- ing portions of the month nega- tively impacted sales.” shoppers sit in front of their tel- evisions hypnotized by war cov- erage, was also blamed. down 8.4 percent. Inc. comp drop, which prompted a reduction in first-quarter earn- ings projections to a range of $13.8 million to $14.6 million. the Previously, firm said income could go as high as $16.5 million. MASS MERCHANTS product assortments, high value quotients and wide customer bases struggled against the calen- war and economy last month. dar, percent comp drop was better than expected. The firm’s full- line stores comped down by a percentage in the mid-single dig- its, while softlines were down by low-double digits for the month. same-store Women’s sales slid by high-single digits, while men’s were down in the mid-single dig- its. April same-store sales are slated for a mid-single-digit drop, which would make it the firm’s 20th consecutive monthly drop. Stores Corp. Gottschalks Inc. and DEPARTMENT STORES DEPARTMENT was a procession of declining interruptedsame-store sales, only by percent advance. cally minute 0.4 Co. Kaufmann’s, among others, reg- istered an 11.4 percent same- store decrease for the month. Inc. dipped 6.5 percent last month. the However, parent of Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s maintained its first-quarter profit guidance of 14 to 19 cents a share, even though April sales are now ex- pected to be lower than previ- ously projected. treat below plan, Inc. earnings expectations to 18 to 23 cents a share, versus 29 cents in year-ago period. Earlier in the profits were pegged to be quarter, in the low-30-cent range. in its home improvement catego- ry, , ’s faced Chico’s Charming Gadzooks , comps fell Hot Topic said its comps , Wet Seal Pacific Pacific Sunwear of Abercrombie & Fitch saw its comps increase said comps rose 9.5 per- fell 6 percent, with Lane Ann Taylor Limited Brands said comps rose 12.4 per- Talbots Elsewhere in the misses’ Checking in with a 14.7 per- Shrugging off the month’s Higher conversion rates and At Limited comps were down 5 Continuing to ride the wave of teen Few retailers shared After progressing 3 percent in Meanwhile FAS cent in March and reiterated its first-quarter earnings estimates of 27 to 28 cents. 0.8 percent, better than expected. it However, said continued un- certainty and low levels of mark- down inventory have led to cau- tion about April comps and a low- ering of first-quarter EPS guid- ance to 48 to 51 cents, versus 57 cents in the comparable quarter last year. world, dropped 8.2 percent, with AT stores down 9.2 percent and The Loft down 6.4 percent. Shoppes Bryant and Bug Fashion stores’ 9 and 4 percent drops, respective, partially offset by Catherines’ 1 percent increase. hurdles greater than the Easter shift as it posted a 27.1 percent comp decline, better than the 31.5 percent decrease logged in February. cent comp drop, warned that, due to below-plan results during February and March and the pending clear- ance of all men’s merchandise, it now expects to report a loss of 30 to 40 cents a diluted share for the first quarter ending May 3. many mitigating factors, year due to more regular-price selling and higher markdown margins,” the company said on a call. prerecorded average retail tickets at both Gap and Old Navy helped com- pensate for declines in traffic. 4 percent, reflecting the shift of sales into April, due to the later timing of All Easter. divisions saw comp declines, but only Express, down 3 percent, ex- ceeded expectations. Women’s sales were above expectations, due to additional markdowns. percent, while those at Victoria’s Secret and Bath & Body Works fell 2 and 10 percent, respectively. strong sales, California cent in March with stores PacSun up 6.8 percent and Demo up 35.1 percent. The firm raised its first- quarter earnings expectations to 14 cents a diluted share, above the most recent consensus esti- mate of 12 cents. apparel Female and accessories comped up at a double-digit pace and footwear at a high-single-digit clip, while male apparel was down in the low-single digits. PacSun’s success last month and the timing of Easter was often cited for shortfalls. “Comp sales were only negative during the fourth week of March, which last year was the week leading up to Easter and the peak week of the quarter,” commented Betsy Mc- Laughlin, president and chief ex- ecutive officer of which, as reported, endured a rare comp drop of 3.1 percent. February, comps retreated 10 percent in March, but the firm did report a decrease in promotional activity as it held to its first-quarter earnings guidance of 25 cents a share. in March managed a

“There are some stores that Overall, the Goldman Sachs There was little consolation Even with the expectations of “There are still a lot of expec- Marcia Aaron, a specialty re- “The changes in where con- On the other hand, Accen- Gap Inc. 9 percent comp increase, its sixth straight up month, as Old Navy advanced 17 percent and Gap 6 percent, more than cover- ing Banana Republic’s 5 percent decline. “Overall merchandise margins improved over the prior

Continued from page one results. However, only 11 of 50 companies surveyed by WWD increases. managed to deliver are gaining,” said Russ Jones, a retail consultant, “showing peo- ple are willing to spend if the re- appeal tailer is doing the things to to its customers, but those who have nothing other than price to offer are not performing well.” comparable-store sales index for March fell 0.5 percent, slightly better than the 0.8 percent ex- pected, but far worse than the 5.6 percent comp gain of March 2002. Weakened by a meager 0.3 per- cent gain at Wal-Mart’s discount stores and a 1.3 percent drop at discounters were up just Target’s, 1.5 percent versus the 1.2 percent projected. Specialty stores de- clined 1 percent and department stores came out worst of all with a 5.3 percent comp drop. in the fact that results in some cases exceeded forecasts. Daniel Barry, a broadline retailing ana- lyst with Merrill Lynch, said comps in his world of 67 retailers fell 3.1 percent, the worst per- formance since September 2001, when comps declined 3.3 per- cent. Barry said he blamed the weak results on difficult compar- isons with when last people year, stopped traveling in the wake of 9/11 but continued shopping. Easter revenues in April, most stores were cautious about April, which has gotten off to a slow start due to the focus on the Iraqi war and more inclement weather. two months of With the first quar- ter down and one to go, some re- tailers — including Target, J.C. Penney and Talbots — scaled back quarterly expectations. tations going into April because sales in March were weaker, es- pecially for some of the teen re- tailers,” said Dana a Telsey, re- tail analyst with Bear Stearns. tail analyst with Pacific Growth Equities, noted the wide gulf separating the best-performing retailers, like Pacific Sunwear’s Demo division (up 35.1 percent), and the weakest, like Wet Seal (down 27.1 percent). sumers are shopping depend on who improved their assortments,” she said. “I don’t think consumers are shopping with a vengeance. need We to have things settled, like a to strong return economy, to robust results.” She characterized results since July as “anemic.” ture’s Steve Skinner said the overall picture is not as bleak. “There was just so much noise out there” in March, he said. “The silver lining in this dark cloud will become more appar- ent as the noise of the war and higher oil prices begin to recede from the scene. Corporations will be able to make better decision and will unleash renewed invest- ment in the marketplace.” STORES SPECIALTY March Comps Head South in Spring in South Head Comps March 6 The BeautyReport 2003 11, PRIL A

, Lauder’s Trip to Fantasy Island NEW YORK — In August, when Estée Lauder and suggest serenity with natal plum blossom FRIDAY launches its new women’s fragrance, Beyond and zebrano wood, rounded out with golden Paradise, with its hyper-fantasy positioning, melaleuca bark for added sensuality. executives hope it’ll be a trip — both for con- Khoury noted that the formula features an WWD, sumers and the company. unusual use of green notes — not leafy, but From the exotic floral formula, to the crys- wet and sensual. The wetness has a drenching tal glass packaging refracting a rainbow of quality, she added. colors, to the groundbreaking advertising Evelyn Lauder pointed out the fruitiness, campaign embracing radio, VH-1 MTV, E! and but also the warmth of the woodsy notes. She cinema spots, Beyond Paradise presents a noted that “Beyond Pleasure has the most fan- startling number of departures for the 58- tastical positioning of any Lauder fragrance. It year-old Lauder brand, not the least of which is not necessarily a destination, but a state of involves distribution. For the first time, the mind and a sense of well-being. The goal is to division will ask retailers for dual locations — try achieve something outside of ourselves, both on the Estée Lauder counter, as usual, with people traveling in virtual reality.” The and at the fragrance bar. positioning has a strong sense of escape, of It certainly isn’t business as usual in the “trying to achieve an aura and a mind-set.” Lauder division, where the corporation’s flag- The fantasy is illustrated in the advertising ship brand, still boasting retail sales of $2.7 developed by Aerin Lauder, vice president of billion worldwide, has been striving to regain global development for the Lauder brand, its former market dominance. and done by Bates Worldwide. Looking like “We built the DNA to target a new audi- an otherworldly sea nymph, the face of ence,” said Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne, The Beyond Paradise ad. Carolyn Murphy floats over a rolling wave group president in charge of the Lauder while she holds a rainbow-colored bottle like brand, MAC Cosmetics and the Designer Fragrances di- $60 million of that retail volume would be generated in a torch. An array of flowers are superimposed on the vision. “We are talking to consumers in a different way the U.S. for the the first 12 months. scene. Lauder noted that it is unusual to have so many to get them to visualize the Lauder brand in a new In order to achieve this objective, Lauder reportedly overlapping elements in an advertising image. “We def- place.” He added, “fragrance changes the perception of has amassed an advertising and promotional war chest initely are trying to reach a different consumer,” she a brand like nothing else.” of $18 million to $20 million in the spending for the said, adding that the core Lauder users could also “This is not your typical Lauder fragrance,” said U.S. alone for the first year. adopt the new fragrance as an alternative. Evelyn Lauder, senior corporate vice president, who Daniel Annese, vice president of marketing for North Prices range from $39.50 for a 1-oz. eau de parfum to credited the teamwork with Karyn Khoury, senior vice America, said: “Our goal is to capture a new generation.” $160 for a 0.5-oz. perfume. Pricing is 7 percent above president, corporate fragrance development world- While the consumer target was identified initially as Intuition and on par with Ralph Lauren’s Romance. wide. For one thing, there’s the unusual degree of soft- fashion-forward women between 18 and 34 years old, The media plan is designed to reach 100 million peo- ness in the scent, Lauder added, asserting that “this clearly the larger aim is to broaden the base of the ple, including the first time that a Lauder launch will be fragrance is different from anything in the market and brand by adding a new community of users. Bousquet- on the radio in the top 15 markets. A commercial will be different from anything we have ever done.” Chavanne’s overall plan is make Beyond Paradise a shown on more than 10,000 movie screens and on net- Peter Lichtenthal, senior vice president of global global fragrance leader, while bridging the gap be- work TV, as well as cable shows attracting younger audi- marketing for the Lauder division, said the 1995 launch tween American and European sensibilities and estab- ences. In addition, spreads and gatefolds in national of Pleasures, which was Lauder’s first global hit, lishing Lauder’s position in the high-sensuality and magazines, including Jane, Marie Claire and Teen Vogue, “broke ground. It gave us an expanded user profile and fantasy fragrance categories. are planned. There will be 25 million scented strips, 50 changed a number of attitudes. Women had not looked The fragrance, supplied by Quest International, is million catalog blow-ins and five million vial samples. In at us in that way before and we think that this can be referred to as a prismatic floral, referring to a spec- addition, there will be outdoor and mall advertising. the same,” said Lichtenthal, who had been introduced trum of emotions represented by seven colors that fig- Also, to the usual in-store collaterals, Lauder has engi- to about 300 cheering Lauder staffers as the architect ure in the formulation, the bottle design and the adver- neered a display unit featuring a holographic virtual reali- of the Beyond Paradise launch plan at the divisional tising. The crystal content of the glass in the bottle, ty of a bottle. Added visual impact will be provided by a sales meeting in Amelia Island, Fla., on Monday. manufactured by Pochet, refracts light into layers of bank of six video screens.”What is important here is the Noel Robinson, vice president of global fragrance color. The top note includes a wet citrus accord. rainbow of colors, the serenity and the passion,” said Janet marketing, added, “this will be our biggest global fra- Bergamot, lemon and grapefruit are blended to en- Cook, president of Estée Lauder North America. “We want grance.” She asserted, “we are redefining fantasy.” hance the floralcy of blue hyacinth and is enhanced to engage consumers with an interactive experience in the The company does not discuss sales or advertising with the unusual addition of orange templar flower and stores to break the wall of sameness and routine.” figures, but industry sources estimate that Lauder’s the Jabuticaba fruit for tart fruitiness and freshness. A In addition to the 2,200 U.S. doors, the fragrance will goal of propelling Beyond Paradise into the top five rain-drenched quality is added by philodendron vines also be rolled out in September to the U.K., Australia would require achieving a global volume of $100 mil- The core of the fragrance is designed to add a fantasy and travel retail. It will appear in Asia in November, lion retail within a year after the U.S. launch. Roughly kick, with Laelia orchid and slights spicy Cattleya the Middle East and Africa in January and in continen- Orchard. Other flowers include crepe jasmine, tal Europe in February. Mahonia Japonica and pink honeysuckle. Fred Langhammer, Lauder’s chief executive officer, More freshness and tropical wetness comes sees Beyond Paradise in the broader landscape of the from an accord, Eden Mist, obtained from the Lauder brand’s evolution. He said the brand has man- Eden Project, an ecological initiative in aged to grow for 58 years because it always refused to Cornwall, England. The project houses 100,000 subscribe to the doctrine of maturity, or the idea that it plants, many of which are endangered species could not be relevant to the next generation. “It has from all over the world. Lauder has a relation- continued being relevant not just to one generation, but ship with the project for sourcing new notes. to the broader spectrum. That is what this is.” The dry-down is designed to add warmth — Pete Born A Multi-Country Growth Plan for Douglas on Tap BERLIN — The Douglas Perfumery chain plans was down 7.8 percent to $220.8 million. to open 40 new doors primarily in eastern First-quarter sales for the Group, which also Europe this year. includes fashion, sport, jewelry and book retail In 2002, Douglas opened 11 doors in Spain, operations were down 3.3 percent. However, seven in France, seven in Italy, six in Poland comparison sales included Easter business, and three in Hungary. The 756-door chain cur- which this year falls in the second quarter, the rently operates 424 doors in Germany; 72 in company pointed out. Douglas did not release a Holland; 9 in Switzerland; 32 in Austria; 85 in sales figure nor break down sales by division. Italy; 45 in France; 40 in Spain; 7 in Portugal; 4 At the annual shareholders’ meeting in in Monaco; 12 in the U.S.; 15 in Russia; 7 in June, the Douglas board will suggest shifting to Poland, and 4 in Hungary. Eastern Europe, a financial year ending Sept. 30, rather than re- however, is now seen as having the greatest porting on a calendar year basis. This would growth potential, the company said at the place the Christmas season in the first quarter, Douglas Group’s annual financial press confer- “allowing earlier and more precise statements ence in Düsseldorf on Wednesday. concerning the expected development of the Douglas already released both Group and business year,” the company said. perfumery division sales figures in January. As However, given uncertain consumer behavior, previously reported, sales for the perfumeries especially in Germany, Douglas said it is “not rose 3.6 percent to $1.3 billion, but on a same- possible to make a serious prognosis concerning store basis were down 0.3 percent. The per- sales and profit developments” for the year fumery division’s earnings before interest, ahead. All divisions, however, are prepared for taxes and depreciation were $162.6 million, another difficult retail year, the company said. DISPLAYS • COLLATERAL • RETAIL ENVIRONMENTS REQUEST A PICTORIAL BROCHURE (212) 246-3780 / [email protected] down 0.7 percent. The EBITDA for the group — Melissa Drier

7 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 11, 2003

’ERRICO D DAN Y B PHOTO — B.C. — — Julie Naughton Julie — Never let it be said Hal Kahn, chairman and ceo of “Don is an inspirational leader,” “I should probably mention that I When model Naomi Campbell — The event, held Wednesday night Macy’s East, who presented Gordon with Retailer honors, of noted the Year that Gordon “typifies what makes a top competi- Macy’s calling exec,” her “fair, tive and smart,” among other notable her part, Gordon thanked qualities. For Kahn, her buyers and her family — in- cluding her parents and two of her sis- ters, who were in attendance. said Werner Hofmann, chairman of Cosmopolitan Cosmetics USA and senior vice president of its parent, Cosmopolitan Cosmetics S.A., who presented Loftus with the Beautiful Apple award. “He’s smart, witty and unflappable.” Not to mention humor- ous — after Hofmann’s introduction, Loftus gave a quick-paced thank you speech, peppered with a humorous spoof of product placements from Cosmopolitan beauty brands, includ- ing Escada and Montblanc. had to promise to include some prod- uct placements in my acceptance speech to secure some of the ads for tonight’s journal,” he cracked. NEW YORK — that the beauty crowd isn’t a com- petitive bunch. also the namesake of a Cosmopolitan Cosmetics scent — learned that the figures for the 28th annual Beauty Ball might fall slightly short of last year’s haul, she wrote a check for $18,000 on the spot, which pushed the evening’s total to just over $1.2 its history, million. Over the course of the ball has raised more than $19 million for the March of Dimes. at the honored Waldorf-Astoria, Donald J. Loftus, president and chief executive officer of Cosmopolitan Cosmetics USA, and Gail Gordon, vice president of cosmetics at Macy’s East. About 610 people attended. Werner Hofmann, Gail Gordon, Werner Donald J. LoftusHal Kahn. and A Million-Dollar Night for Beauty — Brid Costello and Jennifer Weil Jennifer and Costello Brid — Trussardi Jeans will be introduced in Trussardi Jeans’ price points are Meanwhile, Roger & Gallet plans to our strategy is “Today, to capitalize on While Negre refused to talk numbers, The scent’s juice, concocted by The line includes 100-, 200- and 400- Also during 2002, Clarins increased its stake the in Provence, L’Occitane, which rang up sales L’Occitane, of $155.7 million in 2002, up 52 percent year-on- Clarins signed a beauty license with designer Stella Cadente, as well. Last year, also treat- touted the product line Clarins Executives Men, the firm’s first men’s Looking ahead product-wise, Clarins is gearing up to continue the rollout of its In terms of regions, Clarins said it will focus on a number of markets this year, pages at launch. It features young mem- bers of the Trussardi family — Gaia and, in the background, Tomaso. They’re the same faces that appear in ads for the Trussardi Jeans fashion line. Italy and the Mediterranean basin this month. It will then be launched else- where in Europe in May. about 10 percent less than that of the Skin collection. A 30-ml. eau de toilette spray will go for $33, the 50-ml. eau de toilette spray for $48 and the 75-ml. eau de toilette spray for $62. add a little spice to its fragrance portfo- lio. The Yves Saint Laurent Beauté- owned brand, best known for its soaps and eaux de cologne, will introduce gin- ger-based Eau de Gingembre worldwide in May. The unisex eau parfumante (fra- grant water, in English) is part of a plan to rejuvenate the brand. [our] heritage and at the same time to modernize the brand and make it for people today,” said Yvon Negre, manag- & Gallet. “Our older ing director of Roger clients want the brand to evolve, and we also want to recruityounger clien- a new, tele.” industry sources estimate the scent could ring up $2.2 million in wholesale volume in its first year. Jacques Cavallier of Firmenich, features top notes of Japanese ginger, neroli and bergamot; heart notes of Jamaican ginger absolute and ambrette, and base notes of benjoin balm and musk. ml. eau parfumante splash bottles, which will retail for $28, $40 and $62, respec- Spray tively. versions of the fragrance will also be available in 100- and 200-ml. sizes that will sell for $32 and $44. up from 11 percent year-on-year. France-based beauty chain in which it took an initial Inc. in April. minority stake ago. Clarins invested a further $20.5 million in L’Occitane in two years may go year, public in 2005, said Oliver Courtin, vice president of research and de- velopment at Clarins. ment collection, at the meeting. It outpaced the company’s original sales forecast of $11.9 million by $6 million during its first Clarins Today, four Men months, represents 3.6 said percent Oliver of Courtin. the company’s skin care sales, with that share expected to grow to 10 percent. Other key introductions Mascara included Brushing et Soin, the Bohemian Dreams makeup limited-edition versions of Angel to celebrate the scent’s 10th anniversary. color story and three Eau Ressourcante fragrance and a yet-to-be-divulged line. A new Azzaro fragrance too. is slated to bow this year, including China, India, Japan and Eastern Europe. The fragrance’s launch will be accom- Lanvin eau Vetyver de toilette will Also going for a younger demographic Its launch starting in April comes one Jeans However, retains the same spir- While Cosmopolitan executives would The floral musky scent was created by Michel Comte shot the ad visual, Middle East and Asia will start selling The U.S. is slated the scent in September. for early 2004. panied by single-page advertisements. They feature a Lanvin bottle Vetyver lying on a white linen shirt whose collar is open. The ad is meant to be a more laid-back version than that of Lanvin which L’Homme, features a buttoned-up, starched shirt. come in 30-, 50- and 100-ml. sprays that will retail for $39, $48 and $70, respec- tively. is Italian fashion brand Trussardi. It’s hoping to lure 15-to-25-year-olds with its new scent called Trussardi Jeans. year after the brand’s introduction of Trussardi Skin, a fragrance for women in the 30-to-40-year-old age bracket. it as Skin, explained Ann Boutigny, vice president of marketing at Cosmopolitan Cosmetics, now part of Gamble, which Procter owns the Trussardi & fra- instance, grance each license. scent’s For bottle has curvaceous and heavy glass el- ements. But while Skin comes in a cylin- drical bottle tinted yellow and green, Jeans’ flacon is meant to be more er- gonomic. It’s a flattish, rounded rectan- gle and — due to its colored juice and creat- cap — has a blue-jean hue. L.O.V.E. ed the bottle and its outer packaging. not discuss numbers, industry sources es- timate Trussardi Jeans could generate about $5 million in retail volume in its first year. Charabot’s Anne Flipo. Its notes include violet, strawberry, white concrete lily, tuberose, white musk, litrix, heliotrope and some vanilla. which will appear in single and double

Groupe Clarins remains cautiously optimistic for 2003. Three European beauty firms

The French beauty firm hopes its cosmetics division will register a 5 percent At the meeting, as reported, Clarins said its first-quarter 2003 net sales were $245.7 rates. All dollar figures are converted from the euro at current exchange Courtin noted that while the quarterly figures are “satisfactory,” he prefers to Also at the meeting, Clarins discussed profit figures. Last as year, reported, the firm’s Clarins’ 2002 operating profits were up 8.9 percent to $94.5 million, while its op- Lanvin, Trussardi and Roger & Gallet Lanvin will be introducing Lanvin “We only have two men’s fragrances, For Lanvin Pierotti Vetyver, looked to Lanvin Vetyver’s green-tinted juice Industry sources estimate Lanvin Lanvin Vetyver will bow in France in sales gain this year, sales according gain to this its year, president and chief officer executive Christian Courtin at the firm’s yearly financial analyst meeting April 4. basis, those sales rose 8.1 percent. On a like-for-like million, up 0.4 percent year-on-year. “remain prudent” forward. going net profits spiked 55.1 percent to $63.9 million on crease sales was due in part of to a decrease in the $990.3 firm’s average taxation rate, million. which fell to 30.2 The steep in- rate gain of $7.9 million last year. percent from 39.9 percent in 2001, and to an exchange erating margins reached 9.5 percent in the period, versus 9.2 Excluding percent the in couture 2001. business, Clarins’ cosmetics division saw operating increase profits 14.8 percent to $113.4 million. Its operating margin reached 11.7 percent, PARIS — PARIS

Clarins Projects 5% Sales Gain A Young View From Paris From View Young A PARIS — Trussardi Jeans, Lanvin Vetyver and Roger & Gallet Eau de Gingembre. and Roger Jeans, Lanvin Vetyver Trussardi are cooking up a youth-quake. are all launching fragrances targeting youthful consumers in the coming months. Vetyver starting in June. The fragrance, which is the brand’s third for men, tar- gets the 30-to-40-year-old set, a slightly younger demographic than its classic scent launched Lanvin in L’Homme 1997. Lanvin Vetyver’s core consumer is also expected to be older than that of Oxygen Homme, which bowed in 2001. Pour which is very few,” said Lena Pierotti, marketing and development manager for fragrances at Lanvin. wanted “We to cre- ate a new men’s fragrance that would be a big reinforcement [for portfo- the men’s lio], but we didn’t want to cannibalize Lanvin L’Homme.” Lanvin’s fragrance archives. She origi- nally thought the idea would be to mod- ernize the brand’s scent Vetyver Lanvin, from 1964. But after attempting the re- make, she and Synarome’s perfumer François Robert opted to create a new fragrance centered on The vetiver. result is a crisp, fresh woody that features top notes of lime, lemon, bergamot and ju- niper; heart notes of bitter orange, thyme, white jasmine, nutmeg and pi- mento berry, and cedar, sandal, ambrox- an, musk and vetiverol at the base. will come in the same rounded bottle as Lanvin The L’Homme. new scent’s cap, is however, matte metal, whereas the older scent’s is shiny. Vetyver could generate $10.8 million in wholesale volume in its first Dollar year. figures have been converted from the rates. euro at current exchange June, while the rest of Europe, the 8 The BeautyReport 003 2

, 1 1

L I R P A

, Yves Rocher Opens U.S. Shop Y

A NEW YORK — Yves Rocher will be trying new Yves Rocher store will be next to D I New Spa items

R its hand with American malls. Macy’s and across from Bath & Body Works F

from Yves Rocher.

, The French beauty company will open and Victoria’s Secret, located on the sec-

D its first U.S. store on May 8 at the King of ond floor. “The landscape is there and if W Prussia Mall in Pennsylvania. With a base we can compete and hold our own, then we W in skin care and a natural-ingredients ap- can roll out.” proach, the company will launch the 1,200- Currently, Yves Rocher operates 1,400 square-foot space with some 20,000 stock- stores worldwide, including 44 in Canada, keeping units. As an introduction to area where it is particularly strong in Quebec, consumers, Yves Rocher set up an exhibit claiming a 10 percent share of the market’s and passed out product samples at the beauty sales. France claims 600 of the stores. Philadelphia Flower Show in March. Most of Yves Rocher’s locations offer spa The company has had a U.S. presence services, but its first U.S. spot will not. “We for 15 years selling products through its wanted to create a demand for the product ElizabethElizabeth Taylor’s Taylor’s Gardenia Gardenia lineup. mail-order catalog, known as the Green first,” said Hicks. “The retail area will ex- Book, and online. Still, the U.S. represents pand the brand awareness in the market less than 1 percent of its global sales, noted and we do need that touch and feel.” Debbie Hicks, vice president of Image and To draw shoppers into its stores, Yves Elizabeth Taylor’s Brand marketing for Yves Rocher. “We Rocher does sampling and in-store promo- have a huge opportunity in the U.S.” tions, and changes its window displays Yves Rocher reports annual sales of every two weeks. “We do a lot of promo- Latest Blossom more than $2 billion. tional pricing — free gifts and special- The King of Prussia site was chosen be- price leaders,” said Hicks. “This will be NEW YORK — With a new fra- cause it is one of the largest malls in the done at the new store, as well.” grance inspired by her garden, ac- U.S. and contains many beauty outlets. The — Laura Klepacki tress Elizabeth Taylor is hoping that her brand’s sales will blossom once again this summer. Gardenia by Elizabeth Taylor, launching in mid-May, joins the re- Molton Brown Gains Face cently released Forever Elizabeth, as well as a lineup that includes LONDON — Molton Brown is celebrating its 30th anniversary Passion, White Diamonds and by showing a little skin. Sparkling White Diamonds, in the The company, which already offers bath, body, hair, color actress’ scent collection. cosmetics, men’s and baby collections, is venturing into facial Tamara Steele, vice president skin care for the first time in May in the U.K. of marketing for the House of The Molton Brown skin line is comprised of 10 products in- Taylor, the Elizabeth Arden divi- cluding cleansers, toners, moisturizers and eye cream. It will bow sion that is producing the scent, here next month in Molton Brown Emporia and in Selfridges and calls Gardenia “a luxurious, con- Harrods, and will enter several U.S. doors this fall. temporary, bright floral.” Charles Denton, joint managing director of the Molton “Elizabeth grows gardenias in Brown Group, said it was the right time to launch a skin care her garden at home, and has want- line. “As a brand, we have built up years of trust and we have a New Molton Brown products. ed to add a gardenia fragrance to duty to continue taking the lead in defining what is safe for our her range for quite awhile,” said customers to use,” he said. “Product development remains fun- and great service,” he said. Molton Brown skin is also adaptable Steele, who added that Taylor was damental to our growth.” to any environment, age and skin type, he said. Denton added closely involved in the scent’s de- Products in the line — made by Dale Daxon Bowers, the that natural ingredients, multiple benefits, ease of use and un- velopment. In fact, a proprietary creative force behind Molton Brown — are designed to derstated chic packaging are also key elements to the line. accord inspired by Taylor’s garden recharge the skin’s natural stores of nutrients, while actively Molton Brown skin will also preview at Barneys and at was developed especially for this defending against external age aggressors. Molton Brown’s flagship store in New York during September. scent, noted Steele. Items range from a 200-ml. skin-calming, soluble cleanser The company is currently working on plans to widen its distri- The juice, by Quest Inter- for $27 to $45 for a 30-ml. skin-boosting, nourishing tonic. Other bution to include a number of stores-in-stores in U.S. depart- national, has top notes of lily of the products include a 30-ml. moisture lock 24-hour replenisher ment stores and are in discussions with several retail partners valley and leafy green accord; a for $42; a 30-ml. active defense, city day hydrator at $39, and a in France and Germany. However, Denton added that no firm heart of Elizabeth Taylor’s Garden 15-ml. French honey lip saver with SPF 8 priced at $16. dates have yet been agreed upon. Gardenia, fluid white peony and According to Denton, the concept behind the collection is Projected first-year U.K. retail sales of the skin care line white orchid, and a drydown of di- wellness as the pathway to beauty. “This has been the guiding are expected to be between $12 million and $16 million. anthus and soft musk. philosophy behind everything we do at Molton Brown for the In other news, Molton Brown, which already has 25 stores- Gardenia will be available in two last 30 years,” he said. “By providing effective skin treatments, in-stores in department stores and 12 stand-alone stores in the sizes: a 1-oz. eau de parfum spray for which improve long-term skin health, we can focus on active U.K., is planning to open at least eight more stores later this $32 and a 1.7-oz. eau de parfum spray protection and prevention.” year. The company also plans to revisit its existing color and for $42. A 3.4-oz. size is planned for Denton said the line, which took three years to produce, is hair lines, and plans to launch a luxury leather line of acces- the fall. A 6.8-oz. bath and shower gel, aimed at the “discerning metropolitan,” who wants skin care to sories — including travel and cosmetic bags — in June. $18, and a 6.8-oz. body lotion, $22, will fit into her lifestyle. “They also want value, performance, quality — Sarah Harris be available at launch. The bottle, designed in-house, is of spring green glass designed to resemble a bud vase. The top is a with other products — Hair Gel, Milk Face Cleanser and frosted-resin replica of a gardenia. Umbrian Clay Toothpaste — that already enjoy a male following. The outer box is an opalescent A Fresh Approach to Men The packaging, designed in-house, got its inspiration from the white with a double gardenia em- barber shop. Advertising is not planned, but samples will be dis- bossed on the front. NEW YORK — The men’s category is getting a Fresh start. The tributed at point-of-sale. Distribution for the brand includes Fresh While Steele wouldn’t comment 10-year-old Boston-based beauty company — part of the LVMH stores, Sephora, Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys and Neiman Marcus. on projected first-year sales, indus- Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton group — is set to launch its first In addition, Fresh will introduce Crème Ancienne – a super- try sources estimated that the fra- comprehensive men’s line this May, and is expecting first-year rich moisturizer for the face and body. The formula, Glazman grance would do about $20 million retail sales of $1 million. explained, is based on “the world’s first cream” at retail in its first year on counter. “I wanted to create something for men that is created by Claudius Galenus, a scientist and It will be available in about 1,500 easy to use and very effective,” said Fresh co- medic of Greek antiquity in the second century department and specialty store founder Lev Glazman. The collection features a A.D. The cream is formulated using only seven doors, including Belk’s, Robinsons- Face Cleanser for $26, Shaving Cream at $22, ingredients and can be used as a protective May and Hecht’s. Skin Soother at $34, Body Wash for $24 and shield or on extremely dry areas. The product — Print advertising for the new fra- Tobacco Flower Eau de Cologne, which retails also launching this May — retails for $250 and grance is slated to begin in August for $48. All of the skin care and shaving products only about 3,500 jars will be produced the first fashion, beauty and lifestyle maga- contain antioxidants such as olive, grapeseed and year. In staying close to the heritage of the origi- zines, with a visual of the bottle and grapefuit extracts. Glazman noted that such in- nal cream, Fresh has it manufactured by hand at the scent’s tag line, “Something gredients are “important for a man’s beauty a monastery in Norway. Crème Ancienne will be wonderful is about to happen.” regime, because they are abusing their faces available in select Fresh distribution. More than five million co-op scent- Fresh’s men’s assortment. IANNACCONE more than women.” The fragrance includes top Fresh will also launch Tangerine Lychee — part ed pieces and two million scented notes of French bergamot, orange flower and ivy, a heart of to- of the index collection — scheduled to hit shelves next month. The seals are also planned. Industry THOMAS

bacco flower, black currant and linden flower and a dry-down of scent retails for $60 and has top notes of pear, cassis and tangerine; sources estimate that $6 million to Y eucalyptus, elderwood and mint leaf. The brand currently has a middle notes of iris and water lily, and a base of vanilla and amber. $8 million will be spent on advertis- B customer mix that is 70 percent female and 30 percent male. Fresh is scheduled to open its first store in Los Angeles in ing and promotion in the new fra- Glazman hopes to expand its male customer base to about 45 June and another in Paris in October. grance’s first year on counter. PHOTOS percent and “enlarge the pie.” The line will be merchandised — Kristin Finn — Julie Naughton PRODUCT

IANNONI G ANNI GIOV AND YE BO TYLER Y B SHOTS . 9 WWD, FRIDAY, APRIL 11, 2003 L.A The Allou Susan Curtis, Despite what Dermatologists a homeopath and a director at Natural Remedies, Yard Neal’s is hoping no one will ever have to read her new book Natural “Surviving With The Press). Remedies” (Winter book, released late last month in the U.K., describes natural remedies for the diseases and emergency situations that have been dominating headlines for 18 months, including anthrax, smallpox, radiation and post- traumatic stress disorder. DERM BOOK: Katie Rodan and Kathy Fields, who launched the Rodan & Fields treatment brand a year ago, have completed a book called “Unblemished” (Atria), which is slated to bow next not the only spring. But that’s skin news on the doctor duo’s care marketing front. Rodan & Fields launched in Nordstrom in San Francisco on Thursday and is simultaneously conducting what it calls “Radiant Results: Clinic-in-the-Round,” an in-store event. Rodan & Fields also is carried in the Studio at Fred Segal, Bergdorf Goodman and Nordstrom in Las Vegas. ALLOU IN DISTRESS: has consented to Healthcare Inc. court an involuntary bankruptcy the firm by petition filed against a Brooklyn three lenders in court, and federal bankruptcy Richard A. said it has hired Sebastiao as chief restructuring lenders —Congress The officer. Financial, Citibank and LaSalle Business Credit —forced Allou into bankruptcy court after discovering that the distribution assets and inventory were firm’s insufficient to satisfy their claims, which total at least $67.7 million. Allou saw more than $80 million in inventory destroyed in a warehouse fire. The firm is not implicated in the fire and it is suing some of its insurers, seeking more than $100 million. CALLING ALL ENTRIES: Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors Association is soliciting entries for its eighth annual Cosmetic for Entrepreneur Awards will be Leadership. Awards presented to manufacturers, distributors and suppliers of componentry and/or services to the cosmetics industry during 30th annual meeting ICMAD’s and dinner on June 5 in New The entry deadline is York. April 21 and forms can be obtained at icmad.org or by calling (800) 334-2623. DOLLARS OFF: retailers call a brisk start, buyers said L'Oréal plans to cut pricing on its Body Expertise body care collection by $1 to $2. The soothing green products, merchandised on a floor display in most doors, have already been heavily promoted with $1 coupons on the displays and money off coupons in major magazines. The six women’s items, already sold in Europe, entry into the represent L'Oréal’s budding home-spa market in the U.S. Selling out rapidly is Exfotonic, a exfoliator priced at $14.99. FLOWER POWER: TOP NOTES At Paul Hardy. At Paul The bottom-line consensus? Strategies “There’s no question that the importance Urban Decay enlisted artist Sharon “It was definitely worth doing because Likewise, Fred Segal Beauty designed Kerastase sponsored the four to 10 business he’s grown up in (he is the son of ment expired. He jumped back into the makeup entrepreneur Madeleine Mono) with Styli-Style. ground” until his noncompetitive agree- yet, Lola founder Victoria Jackson called the yet, Lola founder Victoria shows “a nice investment.It’s not only about selling the product, but the artistry of it.” L.A. fashion week is going to get more impor- tant each season,” observed Urban Decay creative director us, “For Zomnir. Wende it’s about establishing Urban Decay as a line that works with fashion companies.” of California and the integration of fashion, film, music and lifestyle is a powerful point of inception for our industry,” observed MAC’s Demsey. “L.A. is where London was the radar10 years ago. Watch screen.” artists who worked on each show from the Fred Segal Beauty including agency, cre- ative director Paul D’Aramas and Shawn James. Makeup team leader Kalexius Kolby oversaw the body graffiti at the Joey and T “It show. was really important for us to par- ticipate in L.A.’s first official fashion week,” said cofounder Michael Baruch. “It was good for morale and it was good for promot- ing ourselves as a company that creates need to buy a presence.” looks and doesn’t are already being reviewed with the November shows in mind. Gault to create Heatherette’s cheeky “Hollywood of resort Walk Fame” run. The which first joined beauty up company, with Heatherette in New last York season, also provided product for the goody bags packed with Hello Kitty swag. the hair for Heatherette, as well as Magda Joey Berliner, and Richard T, and others. Tyler Cosmetics and “sat and watched in the back- Berry would not comment on sales, but in- The pencils, which are available for eyes and Nineties. He sold Lord & Berry to AM sales opportunity. dustry sources said the and Flat sharpen- Pencil er could add $2 million to $5 million to the Styli- Style franchise. lips, retail for $8 each and the sharpener is that helped usher in mass-market pencils in the Backstsage at Calter. Corey Lynn Berry was also the founder of Lord & Berry, a company To keep it fresh, Berry hopes to add new shades yearly. He’s also keep it fresh, Berry yearly. hopes to add new shades To The Flat Pencil is Berry’s third introduction since he started Berry doesn’t think going Berryflat will flatten out sales of his existing doesn’t liner, followed liner, by L3, a collection of long-wearing products. priced at $4. Berry hopes to have the array doors of by back-to-school.14 Duane colors Reade, Eckerd, in Longs 5,000 Drug Stores and Shoppers Drug Mart are among the chains taking on the Pencil. “In addition Flat to being unique, I think it will do well,” added Bentley. Duane Reade’s campaign for Styli-Style. planning his first advertising Styli-Style two years ago. His debut was Line & Seal, a long-lasting pencils. He said the new line is different from his semipermanent products. He is giving his whole line a new creative twist color-wheel floor at stand, which retail allows with retailers a to add the products without revamping wall planograms. Grant Berry’s new flat pencil. CriticalMass Brookman Faye By At Corey Lynn Calter. At Corey Lynn Although residual press hasn’t surfaced Geoffrey Rodriguez, an artist with the Beyond A the “Valley Dolls” mood ruled MAC has had a longtime presence at the Clearly, branding is why companies get in-house agency, in-house oversaw agency, the makeup teams, while hair was serviced by mem- bers of Jonathan A Beauty Salon. Models got a windblown look with matte skin and kohl-rimmed eyes at Rami Kashou and contrasted designer Eduardo Lucero’s drab palette with a “veil of color.” at Frankie B., where low-rise minis met high-rise maxi hair, whereas a fall color scheme countered well with Berliner’s edgy Magda MAC wares. senior Yet artist Gregory Arlt saw his role as about more than makeup. “This was the first time for a lot of these designers, and I think our experience had a little calming effect.” shows here, even before they were so formal- ly organized. “We’ve always supported a lot of the L.A.-based designers there and in New noted York,” president John “It’s Demsey. great that there is finally a week that brings a Coast attitude in sharp focus.” West involved. The Elisa Jimenez show April 1 at a downtown gallery marked Lola’s entrée into runway work. Co-sponsor Beauty.com facilitated the link, and Lola provided more than 400 goody bags valued at $250, plus an- other 50 VIP bags filled with $500 worth of products, including a signature leather bag. wrote the 11 shows, but the returns exceeded the investment with the promotional bene- fits resulting from the brand media expo- been wanting to do this for years, sure. “We’d but we now have a reason to do it because of this gorgeous line of cosmetics and our agency,” said Davis “It Factor. was so worth doing it because we became more visible.” Actress Jaime Pressly at Joey and T. A legion of artists, stylists Grant Berry hopes a flat pencil

But was it worth it? The Factor brothers completely under- And while the models weren’t exactly Redken signed on as official sponsor at Eight stylists plus three publicists were While two-thirds of the shows took place Los Angeles fashion week came and went in

Fred Segal Beauty’s Fred Shawn James at Joey and T. Both eye and lip makeup sales are growing She thinks Berry has something unique with his new Flat Resembling a carpenter’s pencil, Styli-Style’s flat makeup pen- The pencil can make a fine line for the delicate inside The introduction of a flat pencil creates the question of how to a flurry of back-to-back shows, celebrity sight- ings and out-of-town media and buyers trying to navigate the distances between programs. By Rose Apodaca Jones Apodaca Rose By LOS ANGELES — and beauty brand reps helped more than 60 shows put on a good face April 1-5 during this city’s newly ramped up fashion week.

seasoned, many of those working behind the scenes were thanks to beauty sponsor- ships by medium and major brands. Mercedes-Benz Shows LA, the three-venue program 7th on Sixth produced at the Downtown Standard Hotel. Besides keying hair for six shows, including Rebecca Rich, Martin Martin and Heatherette, Redken of- fered a penthouse courtesy suite for VIPs. flown out from New joining York, several more team members based here, said Shae Kalyani, assistant vice president of media leveraged the brand in for dif- Redken. “We ferent ways, including using our tickets carefully among our distributors. They can now talk about Redken’s presence at the shows. It was definitely worth doing.” at the Downtown Standard and a handful of independent events went on in surrounding locations, another dozen ran at Smashbox Studios in Culver City, where owners Dean and Davis realized Factor an opportunity to brand their Smashbox Cosmetics line by hosting their own program billed, natch, Angeles. SmashboxFashionWeekLos Backstage in L.A. With Beauty’s Power Players

will help retailers sharpen cosmetics sales. will help retailers — eye at a 4.4 percent rate and lip percent at rate — a according to 10.6 Information Resources Inc. However, retailers lament the lack of innovation. “There are few products that are really different,” said categoryMarti Bentley, manager for Duane Reade. also hopes his flat pencil is the founder of Styli-Style, Berry, Pencil. for. just what the business is looking cil can be used for multiple tasks. the “With Flat Pencil, you can draw an ultrathin line or use it as said a He Berry. shadow,” also said that the pencil could be used as a lipstick and lip liner. “Now, women can have their lip liner match. Before, women would find a not find the same liner.” color lipstick they liked and lower eyelid, as well. At a demonstration of the Flat Pencil, make- up artist Mally Roncal used the pencil to create an entire look. “It is so easy to use and although since this it may is sound flat, silly, it roll off the won’t table,” she added. She used Berry’s Flat on Pencil two models to show a smoky eye and a retro style. sharpen it. Berry worked in tandem with an special engineer sharpener that to “tricks the create pencil into thinking a it is round,” he said. The sharpener leaves the pencil with a razor edge that is perfect for lining. For retailers, the sharpener yields a multiple Flat Out: Berry’s New Pencils Berry’sNew Out: Flat NEW YORK — 10 The HBA Report

2003 Skincandy gained Products by

11, the interest of b.bath use Bloomingdale’s organic and King of Shaves Hopes and Target. natural APRIL , ingredients. For Assist From Kidd FRIDAY NEW YORK — London-based King of Shaves will go on the offensive in the U.S. this fall — and Jason Kidd of the National Basketball WWD, Association’s New Jersey Nets will be leading the charge. King of Shaves signed the 30-year-old, soon- to-be free agent guard to a two-year contract that sources estimate to be a $2 million deal. The endorsement is the linchpin of a marketing plan designed to boost the company’s presence in the U.S. and to coincide with a strategy to quadruple the brand’s U.S. distribution, which is currently at 1,500 doors, by year-end. The planned U.S. expansion reflects executives’ hopes of turning King of Shaves into a 13,000- door, $9 million retail operation here by 2005. Pharmacopia’s Currently, King of Shaves generates $2 million new organic at retail in the U.S. Ginger Body The Kidd campaign will hit the market in Lotion. June with teaser visuals appearing in-store at Duane Reade — one of King of Shaves’ U.S. re- tailers — as well as other public places in the New York metro area. The bulk of the effort, however, will be a national print ad campaign featuring Kidd, which breaks in men’s maga- Extracts Unveils New Wares zines in September. Several preliminary ad vi- suals feature Kidd with his wife, Joumana, By Andrea M.G. Nagel a mini canvas tote by founder Suzanne Spencer and has where the couple appears to be shaving one an- a suggested retail price of $83. other. The overall print advertising effort and NEW YORK — Extracts, the trade show for aromathera- For the aromatherapy buff with sex on the mind, Kidd endorsement is estimated to cost the com- py, fragrance and personal care, turned out another batch there was Angelic Aromas, a 10-year-old company just pany between $3 million and $4 million. of ambitious beauty suppliers seeking retail distribution at making its debut on the East Coast. Libby Patterson, this spring’s show, held March 28-31. More than 250 ex- founder of the Oakland, Calif.-based company, packs es- Jason Kidd hibitors aimed to lure boutique and department store buy- sential oils and herbs into bubble baths, spray mists and ers to their elaborately decorated and fragrant booths. And lotions touting names such as Atomic Attraction, Hot many succeeded, as offerings for brides-to-be, teens, sex Magick Sex and Love Spell. There’s even a Break Up kittens and natural-product lovers emerged as show hits. Kit, comprised of Emotional Purification and Worship For low-maintenance brides, or rather, the 70 percent of Me bath products, for when love goes down the drain. women who apply their own makeup on the big Items with a natural bent received more quality face day, there’s now BridalBabe, cosmetic kits that time with retailers this season than past shows, suppliers make choosing the right beauty products a no- said, thanks to the implementation of organic standards brainer. Makeup artist Janice Kinigopoulos, in October 2002, which requires that products labeled as who also works on the set of the HBO organic be inspected and verified by a certification drama, “The Wire,” created BridalBabe agency approved by the USDA. for all the girls desperate to look like Pharmacopia, a four-year-old bath and body com- a magazine cover model without pany based out of Mill Valley, Calif., recently paying a large makeup artist fee. repackaged its lotions and body washes to The kits, which are packaged in prominently tout their 80 percent and 70 bridal-like white net pouches, are filled percent organic ingredient lists, respec- with lip gloss, foundation, blush and eye tively. The percentage of organic prod- shadow, and include application directions. P ucts used in each item is required by Kinigopoulos tailored kits for four different angea the USDA, said Pharmacopia presi- soap types of brides: the glamorous, the natural, the could dent Lisa Levin. Pharmacopia princess and the classic bride. BridalBabe pouch- land in products retail for $19 for a 10-oz. Whole es are estimated to retail for $40. F body wash to $23 for a 10-oz. lotion. One of the most talked-about companies at mark oods Pangea Soap Works, a soap maker Extracts was Skincandy, a colorful line of bath and body soon.ets from Boulder, Colo., touts its bars as or- products that are packaged with sweet treats in plastic ganic, too, and says so on labels. “Organic As part of a plan to ramp up King of Shaves’ zip-up carryalls. The Orem, Utah-based company is cur- is starting to matter big time,” said Tom U.S. distribution, the brand’s founder, Will King, rently deciding on which retail strategy to explore, seeing Lena, president of TLM, Pangea’s manufac- is targeting the U.S.’s four largest drugstore that both Bloomingdale’s and Target are interested in car- turer representative. Pangea soaps, which are chains: Walgreens, CVS, Rite Aid and Eckerd. rying it, said Skincandy co-founder Mindy Arnold. The made from coconut oil, olive oil, organic hemp seed, or- King of Shaves came to the U.S. three years ago line is already sold in approximately 75 boutiques on the ganic green tea, peppermint, essential oil, organic rose and currently is carried in Duane Reade, Target West Coast, with prices starting from $5 for 4-oz. bath gels petals and organic mint leaves, met with many boutique and independent beauty retailers. and body lotions to $22 for a 16-oz. grapefruit sugar scrub. buyers at Extracts, and plans to enter Whole Foods mar- King notes that the brand, which is cele- Aromatherapy products continued to be popular at kets in the next several weeks. brating its 10th anniversary this month, gener- Extracts. Some of the newest players included b., an all- Despite getting more attention and respect, natural ates $15 million in the U.K. The brand markets natural product range incorporating organic and wild companies still have fundamental challenges facing 32 shaving and skin care products there, for crafted oils out of East Hampton, N.Y. A body balm, a them. Valerie Bennis, founder of Essence of Valley es- men and women. In the U.S., however, only mist and a bar soap are designed for three different sential oils, observed, “People still think aromatherapy four King of Shaves items are in stores, but an lines: b.bath; b.kitchen and b.child. The set is packed in means a pleasant aroma.” additional four — including two women’s shav- ing products — are slated to launch in BridalBabe aims to September. make glamorizing for In addition to growing the business in the the big day foolproof. U.S., King wants to continue to offer men alter- native formulations to the gels and foams found at U.S. mass retail. Whereas companies like Gillette have made product advancements with the razor, most notably with the Mach-3 triple- bladed razor, King contends that “we’ve seen no change for 20 years in software,” or within the gel, foam and pre- and post-shave categories. Outside the U.S. and U.K., King of Shaves is distributed to Australia, New Zealand, Norway and Mexico. The brand’s parent company,

IANNACCONE Knowledge and Merchandising Inc., also either distributes or holds licenses for Ted Baker London, Fish hair care and Speedo hair, body THOMAS

Y

B and skin care in various international markets. Angelica KMI generated revenues of nearly $43.2 million last year, according to King. PHOTOS Aromas appeals — Matthew W. Evans

ACTS to the sex kitten. EXTR 11 WWD,

Jeans, Watches, Cosmetics Andrea Pinto Departs Krizia FRIDAY

Continued from page 2 The company plans to open Andrea ,

Pace Armani’s ’02 Revenues Andrea is here, and some of the boutiques in Beijing, Shanghai, Pinto APRIL attention will shift to him.” Moscow, Saint Petersburg and His responsibilities were fo- Seoul this year and next. After Continued from page 2 enue generator for the group, ac- cused on strengthening and reno- extensive renovations, the flag- 11, percent compound annual growth counting for 51 percent of the vating the company’s stores; de- ship here reopened March 1. 2003 rate for the company over the last wholesale turnover. veloping new markets like China Mandelli first opened that bou- five years,” Armani said. “We are Sales of Emporio Armani and Russia; reinforcing the com- tique 20 years ago on Via Spiga. fortunate in having a loyal client watches rose by 24 percent, mercial structure, and organizing Regarding Andrea Pinto’s de- base which we enjoy serving sea- while those of Giorgio Armani Krizia’s manufacturing plant in parture, Mandelli said through a son after season.” and Emporio perfumes and cos- Sesto Ulteriano, outside Milan. spokesman that she had “nothing Armani said wholesale rev- metics added 11 percent. Pinto also said he was in to say,” and she declined to reveal enues last year rose 6.4 percent Europe is responsible for talks with a licensee to launch a reasons for the termination of the to $1.8 billion from $1.71 billion. more than half of the firm’s sales, men’s sportswear line in 2004. work relationship or whether a The company also produced with Italy generating 16 percent The house’s sales have grown successor will be named. Pinto for the first time a breakdown of of wholesale turnover and the nearly 30 percent during the past could not be reached for comment. 2002 wholesale sales by brand rest of Europe accounting for an- year. For 2002, wholesale volume Pinto worked for about 12 tor of Mila Schön. In October and product category. The Em- other 36 percent. amounted to $240 million, includ- years at Krizia until 1995, when 2001, Pinto was appointed presi- porio Armani and Armani Casa North America makes up 28 ing revenues from 38 licenses. he left to become general direc- dent of Nina Ricci. brands were the two largest rev- percent of sales. Japan and enue generators, each accounting other Asian Pacific countries ac- for 19 percent of the total. count for 6 percent and 5 per- Giorgio Armani fragrances cent, respectively, with the re- accounted for 17 percent of rev- maining 9 percent coming from enue. Giorgio Armani apparel other markets. Escada Plans More Cost Cutting and Armani Jeans represented The company invested $93.8 16 percent and 13 percent of the million over the course of 2002, BERLIN — In response to contin- ting initiatives will be carried out pedite merchandise exchanges volume, respectively. including $42 million to open 30 ued pressure on the internation- in all operative and administra- among its own retail doors. For the remainder, Emporio new stores and restructure 16 al luxury goods market, Escada tive sectors, with the exception of Should a customer want a prod- Armani fragrances generated 8 others. Another $12.9 million Group plans to intensify cost-cut- advertising and quality control. uct that is not available in one percent of sales while A|X Armani went toward offices and infra- ting programs in the current fis- Indeed, Escada plans to increase store, the spokesman explained, Exchange accounted for 7 percent. structure and $8.6 million was cal year, which ends Oct. 31. advertising, a spokesman said, the goal is to have the desired Armani noted that it has allocated to boost production. At Escada’s annual sharehold- though he declined to be more product shipped from another spent more than 10 percent of “We will continue with our ers’ meeting in Munich on Thurs- specific. In fiscal 2001, which Escada unit in 24 hours. its wholesale volume, or more strategic investment program in day, the German fashion house ended Oct. 31, 2001, the Escada Escada is still targeting an in- than $180 million, on advertising the coming year, as always, using disclosed that it plans to save an brand spent approximately $21 crease in earnings before interest and public relations efforts for internally generated funds, to additional $10.7 million this year million on advertising and media, and taxes for the current fiscal its brands. further expand our direct retail through cost cutting and im- and $9 million on catalogs. year. However, the company Turning to product categories, network and, in particular, to proved performance programs. Performance-boosting meas- stressed that this prognosis is de- the company noted apparel sales support the new product lines we Dollars are converted from the ures include closer cooperation pendent upon no further worsen- rose 4.7 percent, with the AJ/Ar- have launched in the last couple euro at current exchange. with suppliers, more direct mar- ing of international business con- mani Jeans label seeing an espe- of years,” said Armani, who said Escada had already planned keting and stepped-up training ditions in the luxury market due cially strong 19 percent jump. he plans to open another 20 more than $19 million in cost cuts programs in distribution and to the war in Iraq or SARS. Apparel is by far the biggest rev- stores this year. this year. The additional cost-cut- product. Escada also plans to ex- — Melissa Drier 12 Jackets in Provençal fabrics, French babouche slippers and crisp bathrobes greet visitors to ABH Design. 2003 11, APRIL , FRIDAY WWD, Aude Bronson-Howard

Bracelets are 40 cents each. IANNACCONE THOMAS

Y B Brightly-hued glasses from Italy. PHOTOS ABH Designs’ Joie de Vivre

NEW YORK — If ABH Design were a movie, it would be short jackets in Provençal prints ($120) and easy twin a film by Yves Robert. sets in pink and gray that were made by a little factory in “La Gloire De Mon Pere” and “Le Chateau De Ma Mere,” England that Bronson-Howard discovered. based on the stories of Marcel Pagnol, come to mind for Crisp cotton blouses and long tunic shirts, drawstring their depiction of summery Provençal hills and the simple pants, robes in vintage-looking Italian silk fabrics ($400 charms of small-town living. Even on a frigid day, a gentle to $600), quilted microfiber and down coats and breeze seems to blow through the store, at 401 East 76th loungewear all speak the same casual language. Street, between York and First Avenues. “There’s plenty of great stores that have apparel,” Aude Bronson-Howard, Bronson-Howard says. “I who owns ABH, has family didn’t want to compete in France, and visits there with them. Besides, we’re often. She also knows a not in an economy where thing or two about filmmak- people want to come in and ABH Design is on a residential Upper East Side block. ing. As a costume designer, buy serious apparel.” she set the sartorial tone for movies such as “Mississippi Whimsical hats are her forte, and she designs every- In between designing and merchandising and attending Burning,” “Scent of a Woman,” “Carlito’s Way,” “Donnie thing from silk and linen chapeaux with flowers and rib- trade shows, Bronson-Howard manages to keep her hand Brasco,” “Analyze This” and “Analyze That.” bons to cloches and crushers. in costume design and maintains a friendship with Robert What makes ABH unique is that Bronson-Howard The designer is also known for her table linens, which DeNiro, with whom she’s worked on several projects. designs everything herself, sourcing fabric from Italy and can be custom-made and are used by many an upscale But the success of ABH has cut into her movie work. France for coats, shawls, pareos, tote bags, napkins, towels, caterer in the city. A selection of her textiles and towels “It takes months to prepare for a film,” she says. “I used pillows and bathrobes. The products are manufactured are sold at Bergdorf Goodman and Takashimaya. to do two films a year. Now, I do one every two years.” here. Everything is simple, yet luxurious. “Because we manufacture everything we sell here we Service is a big part of Bronson-Howard’s formula. She For example, there are suede-bordered cashmere blan- have a lot of flexibility,” says Bronson-Howard. “Whatever sends “show-and-tell” cases for the perusal of clients kets ($200), shawls lined with sheared mink ($1,500) and coat we’re in the mood for, we make. If you came back here in who’d rather shop in the comfort of their own homes. Many capes accented with Chinese squirrel ($1,400), which two weeks, you’d find a whole different setup.” of her customers are in the movie industry and prefer to Bronson-Howard points out is a breed apart from the dull In addition to the soft merchandise, ABH sells bright- keep a low profile, she says. gray domestic variety. ly-hued glasses and vases from Italy, old hatboxes and As luck would have it, the Lycee Française is moving Tote bags are made from striped canvas and oversized antique planters, and bracelets in a rainbow of colors, around the corner to 76th Street and York Avenue. Kelly-style bags ($550) are done in embossed-Austrian which were made in India but bought in France. Bronson-Howard is looking forward to welcoming the leather. There’s also a group of structured Chinese silk In the winter, an adjacent courtyard is filled with 24 mothers of Lycee students who share her refined Gallic handbags with leather trim ($400). glowing Christmas trees. In the summer, Bronson-Howard aesthetic. All of the apparel has a relaxed aesthetic, even the plans to hold outdoor dinners for customers and friends. — Sharon Edelson 13 Media/Advertising WWD,

The China Game: Carrefour vs. Wal-Mart FRIDAY NEW YORK — Call it the battle of game plan. ly be supercenters. the behemoths in the market that “Carrefour is a good competi- In fact, the company appears , MEMO PAD every company wants. tor everywhere we operate,” he to consider its Neighborhood APRIL Seeking to blunt Wal-Mart’s said. “They have to do the same Markets — experimental, small- GEARING UP: Harper’s Bazaar editor entrance into China, Carrefour things we do over there, which is er, grocery-cum-convenience in chief Glenda Bailey may be of France said Thursday that it work with the local government stores clustered mostly in the 11,

looking in her very own backyard for plans to aggressively expand to get the permits and so forth.” southern U.S. and Texas — a po- 2003 a replacement for exiting fashion into that country with about 300 Bracy would not confirm re- tential fit for China, which has director Mary Alice Stephenson. discount units primarily selling ports that Wal-Mart is closing in dense metropolitan areas. According to sources, Bailey has food. The expansion, seen going on a site for its first store in “China has a growing middle extended an offer to longtime editor through 2006, will be conducted Shanghai. He acknowledged, class and they’re investing in in- at large Brana Wolf, who for years through an agreement with the however, the city is exploding frastructure, which are all signs had resisted taking a full-time role Beijing Shoulian Group, an arm with growth, ringed by factories of a good retail market to come,” at the magazine because of her of the Beijing municipal govern- and rumbling with new con- he said. freelance career as a stylist. ment seeking to strengthen the struction, and is “a great mar- In other news at Carrefour, Now Wolf is said to be stepping area’s retail industry. ket” and one the company is first-quarter sales dropped 0.4 up to the plate. Final negotiations The stores will carry the DIA “starting to consider.” percent to $19.56 billion. are under way and although she banner, since the venture in- Wal-Mart is opening its first Excluding currency shifts, how- and Bailey have to sort out an volves Carrefour’s Distribuidora store in Beijing, a Sam’s Club, ever, the group said sales in- The April issue of Harper’s Bazaar. arrangement that would fairly Internacional De Alimentacion this year. Bracy said the near- creased 6 percent. Dollar fig- address her lucrative campaign how poorly those industries are SA division. The new DIA units term expansion plans would ures are converted from the work, Bazaar sources said there faring. But compared with former will be smaller than the typical focus on major metropolitan euro at current exchange rates. could be a formal announcement in staples like technology, “they seem Carrefour hypermarket. Carre- areas like Beijing and Shanghai. Carrefour does about $70 billion the next few days. to have weathered the storm better four has opened 35 hypermar- Wal-Mart has its Chinese head- in sales annually. With Wolf likely to be moving up than the other sectors,” said kets in China since 1995. quarters in Shenzhen, where it Sales in Carrefour’s core and Stephenson moving out, the worldwide publisher Greg Osberg. Last month, Carrefour signed opened its first store, a super- European markets — France, magazine has also been talking “In the international editions, an agreement with Lianhua center, seven years ago. Spain, Italy, Belgium and about bringing in another senior watches, for example, is one of our Supermarket Holdings Co. in “It doesn’t make sense to go Greece — increased 4.2 percent level stylist in a contributing role strongest categories.” Shanghai to open around 300 out to rural China just yet,” he and accounted for 82 percent of similar to Wolf’s position. Katie With that motive in mind, executive discount stores in the next two said. “The baskets are kind of total turnover in the quarter. Grand, the stylist and editor behind editor Dorothy Kalins is walking the to three years. small over there — there’s less Sales in Latin America the British upstart Pop, denied same thin line editorially that Belinda While Wal-Mart is both the spending per transaction. So you dropped 34.5 percent due to she’s been contacted, but others Luscombe did at Time Style & Design world’s largest company and re- need to make a large amount of currency shifts, but increased said she told a different story in — sounding knowing enough to tailer, Carrefour is the world’s transactions and a substantial 14.1 percent at constant levels. private and acknowledged that the impress the advertisers but not enough second-largest retailer. However, population to be profitable.” Sales in Asia also were pun- magazine had been in contact with to alienate the readers. And Kalins is its international business is larg- The company operates 26 ished by currency changes, her and Mert Alas and Marcus sure she’ll do a better job of er than Wal-Mart’s non-U.S. oper- stores in China: 20 super- dropping 5.3 percent; they ad- Piggott, the team whom Grand maintaining the right tone. “The Time ations. Wal-Mart currently has 20 centers, four Sam’s Clubs and vanced 11.4 percent at constant frequently works with. thing was a magazine that didn’t feel supercenters, four Sam’s Clubs two Neighborhood Markets. It currency levels. Another possibility entails the like it was connecting. They were just a and two neighborhood stores. opened 14 doors in fiscal 2002, In the quarter, the group magazine tapping Lori Goldstein as a bunch of stories,” Kalins sniped. (“We Ray Bracy, vice president of 11 of which were supercenters. launched 159 stores, including contributor, but some thought that felt we got the mix right,” Luscombe international corporate affairs, Bracy predicted the country three hypermarkets. might not go over well with Wolf, countered, naturally.) called Carrefour’s expansion could eventually support more — Robert Murphy, Paris; since the two women have frequently It doesn’t necessarily mean the plans “not surprising at all,” but than 60 doors. It wasn’t a given, Katherine Bowers, Boston, competed for campaign work with magazine will duck high fashion or go said it wouldn’t alter Wal-Mart’s he added, that they would most- and David Moin, New York photographer Steven Meisel on lowbrow. “We will go to shows,” Kalins Prada, Versace and Valentino. vowed, and she’s organizing seminars “He [Meisel] plays them off one with the likes of MoMA curator Paola another,” said a source familiar Antonelli to bring the staff up to speed with the situation. “He breaks up — but don’t look for Valentino ads in Vietnam Import Surge Continues with one and calls the other, then the magazine anytime soon. Osberg he breaks up with her and goes plans to pitch the issue first to existing Continued from page 2 back to the other one.” advertisers in automotive and tech. China, fell 9.28 percent in February and 9.55 per- At the same time, the two have After that, he said, he’ll turn to fashion cent for the year to date. long styled shoots for Italian Vogue. and jewelry advertisers in Europe, While there’s hand-wringing about escalating But what will become of creative where Newsweek readers have Vietnamese imports, mills are more concerned director Stephen Gan? According to incomes almost $40,000 more than about China bolstering its top spot as the largest sources familiar with the situation, their domestic counterparts, according U.S. foreign supplier of textiles, with almost 18 per- Gan and Bailey have grown more to its surveys. (Similar demographics cent of the U.S. import market, and the leader for distant in recent months. “He are why Time and Business Week apparel shipments, with an almost 10 percent wants to see what direction the launched their initial style forays on share, according to year-ending February figures. magazine goes in with Brana the Continent as well.) By contrast, Vietnam has 2.43 percent of the U.S. ap- moving up,” said one source on the But will the readers be ready for parel market and less than 0.25 percent for textiles. magazine, “but he’s been what is comparative fluff during Seven months ago, the ATMI asked the admin- frustrated.” The magazine has Iraq’s reconstruction? “These all are istration to reimpose quotas on five apparel and ascended on newsstands since Gan the sorts of things that used to be textile import categories from China that had and Bailey came in, but working in the magazine,” said Kalins. “And been lifted as part of the gradual phaseout of Talks continued Thursday between U.S. and Vietnamese within increasingly commercial once we get out of Iraq and back to WTO-member quotas by 2005. trade officials over imposing quotas on Vietnam’s guidelines has sometimes been real life — or maybe this is real Last week, Grant Aldonas, undersecretary for imports, which continued to surge in February. difficult for him. Last month, to his life…” — Greg Lindsay international trade at Commerce, addressed the consternation, sources said he ATMI’s petition and said the agency is close to is- unless it’s used.” discovered that the image of suing guidelines for ruling on such requests. Karl Spilhaus, president of the National Penélope Cruz going on the cover 20 QUESTIONS ABOUT LUCKY FOR Under the procedures, Aldonas said it could take Textile Association, said of a February meeting had been switched by Bailey MEN: James Truman, proud as ever of more than three months to make a decision. with U.S. Trade Representative Robert Zoellick: without consulting him. his most successful brainchild, Aldonas has been focused on the textile industry “We were led to believe we would have these But Bailey, through a Lucky, dropped in on the magazine’s since the Bush administration — in a deal in 2001 to [safeguard] procedures within a couple weeks. spokeswoman, denied that there party for creative director Andrea garner enough House votes to renew the president’s They delay and delay.” was any friction between them. The Linett on Tuesday night. Asked about trade promotion authority, it agreed to help domes- USA-ITA’s Hughes said procedures for filing magazine offered no comment on his encore, the so-called Lucky For tic mills better compete with foreign suppliers. Chinese safeguard requests are crucial, since the Stephenson’s replacement. — Men, Truman didn’t have much to On Wednesday, 18 GOP members of the House level of domestic competition needs to be exam- Jacob Bernstein say about his ongoing search for an Textile Caucus to whom these promises were ined, as well as whether a surge in Chinese im- editor in chief. Did he want an made agitated for the administration to dispense ports is due to the loss of trade from other foreign YET ANOTHER WEEKLY’S STYLE: established fashion editor or another with the procedures and act immediately to im- suppliers and not the U.S. Thinking that anything Time and dark horse, like Lucky’s Kim France pose quotas on Chinese imports. Steve Lamar, vice president of the American Business Week can do to woo had been? He was looking in several “The rules of the trade game with China Apparel & Footwear Association, with importing advertisers, it can do better, places, he replied. How many clearly must change,” the lawmakers wrote members like Kellwood Co. and Sara Lee Corp., Newsweek is joining the chase for candidates was he interviewing? “A President Bush, with Reps. Charles Norwood (R., said, “The administration is doing what they are fashion and luxury ads with a few.” Were these candidates on the Ga.,) and caucus co-chair Howard Coble (R., suppose to.” special, all-design issue slated for short list? “Yes.” Was this the first or N.C.) as the lead signatories. “Our innovative and Meanwhile, Charles Bremer, ATMI’s director of Oct. 20. Unlike its rivals, Newsweek second round of interviews? “The competitive domestic textile manufacturers de- international trade, said the recent year-to-date will keep its coverage in a regularly second.” So when would he name serve the opportunity to compete fairly and increase in total apparel and textile imports of 19 scheduled issue instead of spinning an editor? Likely or probably “next should be able to count on our government to percent will have a “deleterious effect” on prices, it off as an outsert — and it’s just week.” And then, tired of the protect them and the jobs of the thousands of since supply far outweighs demand. the start of what executives describe game, he smiled, nodded and workers they employ.” As total apparel and textile imports rose 17.5 as a strategy to boost the presence slipped away. On Thursday, though, Augustine Tantillo, Washington coordinator for percent in February against a year ago, they of design, architecture and fashion Truman hedged a bit on the timing the American Manufacturers’ Trade Action rose 19.2 percent for the first two months of the coverage in succeeding issues. of an editor’s appointment. A Coalition, noted that the Chinese quota issue, year to 6.56 billion SME. Textile imports rose But it’s still about the ads — spokeswoman said that he “hoped” to known as the safeguard provision, was negotiated 18.8 percent to 3.5 billion SME for the year to scary as that sounds considering name an editor in two weeks. — G. L. in 1997 and it’s been 15 months since China joined date, while apparel imports rose 19.6 percent to the WTO. He said, “The safeguard is meaningless 3.058 billion SME. 14 Obituary

2003 Concorde Grounded 11, Former Stevens Exec James Finley By Samantha Conti row as a sign of their status and a badge of chic. NEW YORK — James D. Finley, UNITE president Bruce as an executive. APRIL

, LONDON — Marc Jacobs flew “With only 90 seats, it’s like a who led the former giant textile Raynor was a plant-level organ- “There was a lot more going Thursday via Concorde from VIP cocktail lounge, where mill J.P. Stevens & Co. during a izer for the ACTWU at the time on,” he said. “The whole process Paris to New York and was disap- everyone is craning their necks period of labor turmoil in the of the Stevens campaign. He said of the imports versus domestic

FRIDAY pointed to learn after landing that to see where everyone else is Seventies, died Saturday in of Finley, “He was a very tough manufacturing was starting to it was one of his last supersonic sitting,” said the London-based Gulfstream, Fla., according to a guy and had he not left the com- build.” flights. But he wasn’t surprised. banker Roslyn Braun. published report. He was 86, ac- pany, I think that dispute would He noted that under Fin-

WWD, “I was one of only five or six High-fliers over the years cording to Frank Foley, a friend not have been settled.” ley’s leadership, Stevens people on the flight this morn- have included Hubert de of the family. Textile consultant David opened its first foreign opera- ing,” he said of the supersonic Givenchy, Donatella Versace, Finley was named president Tracy, who worked at Stevens tions. Finley also served as plane that can carry 90 passen- Luciano Pavarotti, Anna Wintour, of Stevens in 1969, when the shortly after Finley’s retirement, president of the American gers. “It was really kind of empty.” Oscar de la Renta, Kal company was battling to pre- said, “He got a very bad rap on Textile Manufacturers Institute Fashion designers, execu- Ruttenstein of Bloomingdale’s, vent the former Amalgamated the union thing. He listened to from 1976 to 1977. tives and everyday jet-setters Nan Kempner and Yves Clothing & Textile Workers the lawyers too long, which is J.P. Stevens, which was mourned the passing of the Carcelle, head of Louis Vuitton. Union, a predecessor to Concorde era this week, insist- They opted for the plane’s speed UNITE, from organizing its ing that life just wouldn’t be the — which cut the time of the South Carolina mills. In 1977 same without the little bird. As transatlantic journey in half. Finley famously tried to shout Jim Finley as president of Stevens widely reported earlier this “I am an avid user of this down a group of about 1,500 “ week, British Airways said it service,” said Italian designer protesters — including Coretta made a great contribution to his would be retiring its seven Roberto Cavalli, who lamented Scott King — who turned up at Concorde jets at the end of its loss. “I will really feel how the multibillion-dollar firm’s important manufacturing enterprise. October. Air France announced much longer the trip will take.” annual meeting. ” a similar decision, saying its last Jacobs, who lives in Paris The struggle inspired the — Roger Milliken, Milliken & Co. flight would be May 31. and designs Louis Vuitton, jets movie “Norma Rae,” which was Both airlines, which operat- frequently to New York to work released in 1979, the same year bad for any of us. But he was a founded in 1813, started to ed their Concorde jets for more on his signature collection. He Finley stepped down as chair- very kind man underneath.” break up in the Eighties and than 26 years, have blamed de- said the Concorde was really man of the company. The next Roger Milliken, chairman Nineties. Pieces were sold off to creasing passenger revenue and convenient because it allowed year, under the leadership of and chief executive of Milliken various textile investments and increasing costs. him “a full day of work” upon Whitney Stevens, the mill & Co., said Thursday, “It is with the last descendant company The Concorde was as much an arrival in the U.S. reached an accord with the great sadness that I learn of with a direct link to the apparel elite club as a form of transporta- Banker Braun said that union and negotiated a contract. the loss of another great leader industry — JPS Apparel Fabrics tion, with tickets costing about thanks to the Concorde, she can The day that news was re- of the textile industry. Jim — closed its doors in September $11,000 each. It has long been a shop or do a full day’s work in ported, Finley described how Finley as president of Stevens 2001. In 1993, the former magnet for fashion designers, New York without feeling sick much the campaign had affected made a great contribution to WestPoint Pepperell acquired celebrities and socialites who or jet-lagged — and then take his life. Asked if he’d seen his important manufacturing Stevens and today operates as a preferred speed to comfort (the the long-haul flight back to “Norma Rae,” he responded, “I enterprise.” home furnishings manufacturer. plane could be noisy and was so London that same night. didn’t see it…I was afraid that Foley, who worked for Finley It has since adopted the name low that taller passengers could- Jacobs took a philosophical someone would see me. I hear and today serves as ceo of WestPoint Stevens. n’t stand fully erect in the middle approach: “Life goes on. I’ll just it’s a good movie, but it had Crown Home Furnishings, said Stevens is survived by his of the aisle). Yet, in a canny par- sleep more because sleeping on a nothing to do with the settle- in focusing on the labor dispute, wife, Nancy, and three sons, Dan, allel to the fashion world, passen- plane has never been a problem ment, nor did it represent people have overlooked some of Bill and Fred, according to Foley. gers vied to be seated in the first for me. Maybe I’ll read more.” Stevens Mills.” Finley’s other accomplishments — Scott Malone g{xWWD YÜtzÜtÇvx\ááâxBEAUTYBIZ

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the set of his new movie, Surprise! Having wrapped up WWD, “Baby,” until then, but shooting the fall Louis Vuitton you never would have campaign, in which she stars, Rite Aid Names Sammons CEO Fashion Scoops FRIDAY guessed it. Though she Lopez and her beau threw the NEW YORK — Mary Sammons, Aid said a $12 million gain on the NIC AT NIGHT: spent the day hard at private bash, inviting the shoot Nicole already the highest ranking fe- early extinguishment of debt al- Nicole Kidman’s work, Kidman stole the crew and Jacobs’ team. Jacobs , male executive in the chain lowed it to record net income of $7 motto must be Kidman show, sweeping into the thought he was summoned on APRIL drugstore industry, was elevated million during the fourth quarter “better late than dinner dressed in a business. “You could have peeled to chief executive officer, Rite ended March 1 against a $257.9 never.” At 10:30 glamorous sparkling me off the ceiling,” he said. “It Aid announced Thursday. million net loss in the year-ago p.m. on Wednesday minidress by Christian was a complete surprise and I was 11,

Sammons, currently president quarter. The prior-year figure in- — and over two Lacroix and fantastic really touched. It was a very 2003 and chief operating officer for cluded $211.2 million in pre-tax hours late — the Fred Leighton jewels. extraordinary 40th birthday.” the 3,400-store chain, assumes stores closing and asset impair- star rushed to Besides the impromptu musical the ceo title from Bob Miller, who ment charges versus $78.3 million appear by Baz FORTY-FIED: Not everyone entertainment, featuring Antoine will remain on as chairman. The of such charges in the most recent Lurhmann’s side at gets to party with Jennifer Arnault tickling the ivories and changes go into effect June 25. period. Rite Aid posted a net loss the annual TriBeCa Lopez or hear Ben Affleck Affleck belting out Elton John hits, Sammons and Miller joined attributable to common stockhold- Ball to benefit the croon on his or her Jacobs also celebrated his Rite Aid in 1999 as members of a ers of $8.3 million, or 2 cents a New York Academy birthday. But that’s what milestone by getting a new, shorter

new executive team tapped to share, versus a loss of $265.2 mil- of Art, sponsored MCMULLEN awaited Marc Jacobs haircut. He arrived in New York turn around the financially trou- lion, or 51 cents a share, in the this year by Wednesday night when Thursday for the opening of an TRICK bled company. Before Rite Aid, 2002 quarter. Sales increased 2.5 Hermès. Director A he arrived unsuspecting exhibition by Japanese artist P

Y

Sammons was president and ceo percent, to $4.14 billion from $4.04 Jonathan Glazer B at the Crillon Hotel in Takashi Murakami, with whom he of Fred Meyer Stores, a 137-unit billion, and advanced 4.7 percent (“Sexy Beast”) Paris, where the celebrity collaborated on Vuitton combo-store operator. on a comparable-store basis. kept Kidman on PHOTO couple was staying. accessories. Separately on Thursday, Rite — Laura Klepacki

FIT MODEL Product Manager Garment Industry firm seeks full time size 10 Fit Model. P.L. Co seeks Product MGR who is a Please fax resume to 212-719-2942 team player w/excellent communica- tion skills. Private Label experience a Admin Since 1967 must!! Must be detail oriented and computer literate to coordinate Account Exec - Sales W-I-N-S-T-O-N between customer design and Off Price Specialist COSMETICS EXECUTIVE APPAREL STAFFING Global Sourcing Manager production. Must be familiar w/ Established fast Growing moderate DESIGN*SALES*MERCH Seeking Global Sourcing Manager for domestic and import piece goods separates and related domestic and im- ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION children’s sleepwear mfr. Must have market. Dept store, catalogue and port sportswear company seeks sales Start-up cosmetics company located in Southern California, (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 factory selection, contract negotiation specialty store chain contacts a plus. rep. Fun environment, excellent com- and quality/compliance experience. Please fax resume to: pensations and benefits. NYC Based. with existing funding and product line, seeks senior level exec- Please forward resume/salary history to: Attn: TM (212) 302-1856 Fax Resume (212) 764-5981 utive to oversee and direct day-to-day operations. Responsibil- Fax: 312-525-2711 ities include strategic planning, budgets, hiring, purchasing APPAREL "STAFFING" Public Relations and fulfillment, market analysis, marketing, advertising and Alan Wolf - Since 1971 Merchandiser & Must have experience and contacts in Account Executive/ sales management. *Design*Prod’n*Tech Design*Graphic Design the beauty industry. Will be responsible Trainer Asst. Designer for coordinating with magazines, News- See career listings @ www.apparelstaffing.com papers, Television & Special events at the Fast-growing New York based Skincare Established Missy company is seeking Company seeks flexible, dynamic We are seeking a motivated individual who is looking for the to fill positions of an experienced mer- store level. Negotiable salary & benefits. Fax resume to 646-613-8686 individual with at least 3 years experience opportunity to take a start-up company to the next level. Posi- chandiser and an enthusiastic asst. de- to demonstrate, educate and motivate tion requires relevant management experience, strong opera- signer. Current knowledge of market a sales associates at high-end retail MUST. Great company with great op- stores. Responsibilities also include: tions and organizational skills, industry knowledge and ability ARTIST portunity for the right candidates. SALES SUPPORT meeting sales goals, monitoring stock Large Childrenswear Company seeks Fax resume: (212) 730-5057 levels and general maintenance of to work with diverse group. Creative Artist for infant/toddler girl & E-Mail: [email protected] CLERICAL assigned accounts. Skincare background boy denim driven product. Must be Experienced clerical with strong analytical required. Must be willing to travel. Profit participation available. able to identify trend & have excellent and organizational skills sought to Negotiable salary & benefits. color sense. At least 3 yrs exp. support the Sales team. Must be self- Fax resume to: 646-613-8686 Fax resume to "Attention Donna" at (760) 568-3662 Fax resume: 212.967.8631 ATT: LT motivated, meet deadlines, multi-task, Production Assistant extremely detail-oriented, have strong Fast paced domestic clothing designer Excel skills, & ability to research Fragrance/Cosmetic looking for a Production Asst. w/2 yrs. trends and sales. Heavy number exp. The perfect candidate must be crunching involved. FIT MODEL Executive Controller/ detail oriented, efficient, a self starter, Fax or mail resumes to 212-819-1003. In house fit model wanted. Must have and have computer knowledge. $30- Apparel Ventures, Inc., the following measurements: Bust 36", Major prestigious fragrance New York Financial Analyst 35K. Fax resume to 212-719-9167 based co. seeks a Corporate Executive 1411 Broadway #3111, NY, NY 10018 Waist 28", Hip 38". Must be 5’6 or 5’7. Showrooms & Lofts Rapidly growing men’s skincare line is Please fax resume to Jerry C @ 212-869-3639. to manage all high-end dept. store busi- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS looking for a Controller/Financial Analyst. ness. Fragrance/Cosmetic exp. is req’d. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Will report directly to the COO & CFO. SPEC TECH E-mail to: [email protected] ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Must have experience in the beauty Production Assistant Ladies dress & sportswear co seeks industry & have excellent computer Leading childenswear importer seeks individual w/min. 3 yrs experience. skills with emphasis on Excel. Negotiable experienced production assistant. Technical garment construction salary & benefits. Ideal candidate will have 3-5 yrs experi- knowledge, especially silk chiffon bias Please fax resume to: 212-226-7778 ence in import. Position involves dresses is required. Experience with MARITHE+FRANCOIS heavy follow-up with factories and re- fittings, grading specs, and e-mailing sponsibility for approval process. Must GIRBAUD 36@7TH; NEW FLOOR; HI CEILING; comments overseas. Excel and Word be detail oriented with excellent com- knowledge also needed. SALES ASSISTANT 3 BIG WNDWS; BRITE VIEW; 500FT 2 munication skills and be able to work Seeks Sales Assistant with strong Private Label ROOMS PRIVATE $1,200. ALSO Corporate Showroom Mgr. Fax resume to Jeff at 212-471-8024 or in fast paced environment. [email protected] communication skills, ability to learn Manufacturing AVAILABLE: DESK SPACE $300 Creative West Coast (CA) kids’ wear Please fax resume with salary re- quickly and work independently. Must NICE ENVIRONMENT 212-244-3964 company seeks Energetic East Coast quirements to (212) 268-5670 Attn: TJ. have some exp with accts, knowledge Skin & Hair Care/Body & Bath Care (NY) Corporate Showroom Manager. Products made for you... of retail math and computer skills. Please Fax or E-mail resume to: Fax resume: 212-967-4389 Spas, Salons & Fashion Lines 510-982-4646 / [email protected] PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Tina Lane Personnel Call the Natural Products Experts Leading Children’swear Co. seeks Tina Lane Personnel is a boutique search Visit our Factory detail oriented indiv. Must have exc. firm specializing in the placement of Orjene / Jason Comm. skills. Comp. prof. in Illustra- mktg. professionals in the cosmetic SALES-Jeans Call: 718-937-2666 tor, Photoshop and Excel a must. industry. If you have cosmetics indus- Candidates will be resp. for garment E-mail: [email protected] Designer/Artist try exp., please contact Tina Lane @ Seeking experienced sales person to Private label/character license fashion detail submissions & approvals from (212) 682-1333 or sell junior bottoms. Established licensors. Garment construction and [email protected] accessory co. seeks creative, energetic fabric knowledge a+. relationships with major discounters, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, person with fashion experience, trend Fax resume to: 212-594-7925 specialty chains and department knowledge & excellent Mac Illustrator/ stores a must. Fax resume to: PRODUCTIONS PhotoShop skills. 212-869-5047 or email All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Email resume: [email protected] TSE CASHMERE [email protected] Call Sherry 212-719-0622. or fax to 212-398-0703 attn: L. Albert PRODUCTION ASSISTANT PATTERNS/SAMPLES Women’s apparel importer in NYC is Technical Designer seeking production assistant for Knit/ At least 2 years experience in fully PRODUCTION DESIGNER Sweater. Import exp. is preferred & fashion sweater and cut & sew knits. capable of working on computer. Must be able to translate design sketches Bryant Pk Duplex 1100, 2000, 4500 FT. Specializing in small productions. Sam- 20 Ft Ceilings - Great Windows/Views ples, duplicates, patterns. Full service ASST. DESIGNER Please fax details to Miss Erika Inc. into complete technical form. Respon- SoHo-Sublet Penthouse 2000 FT shop to the trade. Fine fast work. JR * MISSY * PLUS SIZES at 212-354-7688 or email to sibilities include making initial spec Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 212-869-2699 Must have min. of 3 yrs. experience. [email protected] from sketches or garments, making fit Search-www.manhattanoffices.com Fax resume to Betsy & Adam Ltd. comments, follow-up on all aspects of 212-302-9325 sample development and production. Computer skills a must, with emphasis Production Coordinator on Excel and Word. Better Contemporary Ladies Sportswear: DESIGNER Spec Tech knits and wovens. Must be organized, Must have basic knowledge of garment RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 detail oriented, and computer literate. For Space in Garment Center PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. HAND BAG DESIGNER constructions. Responsibilities include ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 Exp’d. Children’s Hand Bag Designer Min 3-5 years experience. Please spec garments, developing charts and filing. Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC- Helmsley-Spear, Inc. (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Freelance & F/T. Fax resume & salary e-mail resume with salary requirements TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? to: [email protected] Please fax resume to (917) 606-6769 or 212-880-0414 www.resumesforfashion.com requirements to Erin at: 212-736-2649 E-mail: [email protected] **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy.**