BCBG’S $153M DEAL/2 WHAT TO WATCH/8-16, 20-22 WWDWWDMONDAYWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • December 6, 2004 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Santa, Baby NEW YORK — What would be better than to find that some beautiful dolls and great handbags had been left for Christmas morning? Nothing, as this lineup proves: An Alexandra Fairchild Ford-as-Holly Golightly doll in a “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” outfit with Chanel’s plastic and gold-tone metal bag with silk satin ribbon, Ralph Lauren’s silver and crystal clutch with linen trim and a Santa Baby doll. For more, see pages 6 and 7. ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT Blue Christmas: European Stores See Tough Holiday Ahead By Robert Murphy retailers is expected there, too. analysts across the Continent and in PARIS — It isn’t only the U.S. that A spot check of European stores the U.K. said low consumer

Y ROBERT MESSYASZ; STYLED MESSYASZ; Y ROBERT BY ROXANNE seems to have a bit of the Christmas showed that many are optimistic, confidence, endemic unemployment blahs. Trees are in the windows and banking on luxury accessories, and high fuel costs could dampen the lights are glittering across Europe, fragrances and cashmere sweaters important yuletide shopping season. but a difficult holiday season for to get shoppers spending. But See European, Page 18 PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; IMAGING B 2 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear BCBG in $153M Financing Deal GENERAL By Vicki M. Young Trees are in the windows and lights are glittering, but analysts predict a difficult Christmas selling season for retailers in Europe. NEW YORK — BCBG Max Azria Group on Friday 1 completed its $53 million bond offering, and at the Retailers evidently felt they had enough help to meet the holiday shopping same time entered into a new $100 million work- 2 blitz and shed jobs in November, the Labor Department reported. ing capital credit facility. EYE: Jamee Gregory’s friends feted the author of “New York Apartments” at The investment grade bonds are backed via a

PHOTO BY STEVE FRIEDMAN PHOTO BY the Cartier Mansion…49 Grove enters the nightlife fray…Sophisticated cakes. securitization of BCBG’s trademarks. They were 4 privately placed with an institutional investor and FASHION: The fashion-conscious clique of high school girls in the movie are structured in two tranches, one with an invest- 6 “Mean Girls” has nothing on the Alex line of dolls from the Alexander Doll Co. ment grade rating of “AAA” and the other “Baa3” A top luxury shopping center in Hawaii, called 2100 Kalakaua Avenue, has by Moody’s Investor Service. UCC Capital Corp. was the structuring and placement agent for the 25 new owners that want to pump up its already powerful sales numbers. asset-backed bonds. The working capital facility is provided by GMAC Commercial Finance, as agent, Obituaries...... 27 and GE Commercial Finance. Max Azria, chairman and chief executive office Classified Advertisements ...... 26-27 of BCBG, summed up what the new financing To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is arrangement means to his firm in one word: [email protected], using the individual’s name. Freedom. “This will allow us much freedom in our ex- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 pansion plans. We have a very serious growth plan FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Max Azria and VOLUME 188, NO. 117. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional ahead. We will do it by opening more stores,” he issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three said. Robert D’Loren additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 Azria also didn’t rule out the possibility of an West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, acquisition. D’Loren added that there were also delays Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior The company’s annual volume in 2003 was $240 based on Azria needing time to consider every op- Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- million, according to the chairman. The projected tion for his company, which is experiencing “dra- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration volume for 2004 is $375 million. “Our company’s matic growth.” No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. volume will grow [by another] 50 percent in 2005 BCBG has a diversified portfolio of brands: POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. and 40 percent in 2006,” Azria predicted. BCBG Max Azria Collection; BCBGirls; FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is The news of a possible bond offering was first BCBG//Attitude; To The Max; Parallel; Hervé required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new reported in these columns in June 2003, and it Léger, and Max Azria Atelier. There are currently subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production took over a year to get the deal done. 105 BCBG stores in the U.S., and the different correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Robert D’Loren, president and ceo of UCC, ex- BCBG brands are in a total of 5,000 doors in the magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully plained: “This was a very complicated deal. States. The company has 30 store locations over- screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive Unlike others that we’ve done before, this had a seas in France, Canada and Japan. these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. very big retail component for a whole company se- As for expansion, Azria foresees around 350 WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND curitization. We worked very closely with BCBG’s stores in the U.S., but limited growth opportunity TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART asset-based lenders, particularly with GMAC.” overseas. WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID.

TUESDAY: FFANY New York Shoe Expo, New York

EEK (through Thursday). Retail Sees Job Loss in Nov. G-III Apparel Group reports on third-quarter sales and earnings. By Joanna Ramey Textile producers employed to push the unemployment rate IS W 2,000 fewer workers for the slightly down to 5.4 percent WEDNESDAY: Storexpo, New York (through Thursday). WASHINGTON — Retailers evi- month, down to 411,200, as appar- from October’s 5.5 percent. The Movado Group reports on third-quarter sales and dently felt they had enough help el employment dipped 2,300 to government also revised down- earnings. in the stores to meet the holiday 275,600 — both part of long-term ward October’s employment shopping blitz, shedding instead industry declines in the face of gain of 337,000 to 303,000. FRIDAY: The Labor Department releases the Producer of adding jobs in November, the increasing competition from low- The dip in retail employment Price Index for November. Labor Department reported priced imports. Manufacturing mirrors increases in productivi- COMING TH Friday in its monthly employ- jobs as a whole continued to ty seen by merchants, which ment report. show weakness, part of a four- have been driven by technology, Clothing and accessory store year malaise, losing 9,000 work- resulting in decreased need for jobs fell a seasonally adjusted ers to employ 10.137 million. workers, said Carl Steidtmann, 2,200 workers to 1.352 million The economy as a whole chief economist with Deloitte YSL’s Schulman Latest Exec against October, although they added 112,000 jobs in November, Research. employed 17,000 more people considered a small increase Overall, Steidtmann said the than in November 2003. since a healthy labor market is jobs report reflected a growing Expected to Exit Gucci Group Employment at department considered to be the addition of economy, expected to post a stores dipped by 2,600 to 1.6 mil- more than 225,000 jobs monthly. GDP increase this year of By Robert Murphy this spring parted ways with lion workers for the month, However, November was the around 4 percent. former Gucci chief executive which was 13,000 below a year 15th consecutive month of em- “It’s hard to find a dark spot PARIS — Gucci Group is losing officer Domenico De Sole and earlier. Jobs at general merchan- ployment increases — regis- at the moment” in the economic another top merchant. former Gucci creative director dise stores fell by 4,700 for the tered mostly in service sector terrain, Steidtmann said, al- Joshua Schulman, executive Tom Ford. month to 2.809 million and were jobs such as in health care and though he noted that the combi- vice president of worldwide Gucci’s worldwide mer- 17,300 below year-ago payrolls. restaurants — and was enough nation of the growing federal merchandising at Yves Saint chandising director, Tom budget deficit, now at some $400 Laurent, is leaving the Paris Mendenhall, left the Italian billion, and the $500 billion fashion house, sources said. fashion house in October after trade deficit create “a bit of a A spokesman for Gucci Gucci president and chief ex- dark picture.” Group parent Pinault- ecutive Giacomo Santucci was Charles McMillion, an econo- Printemps-Redoute declined let go earlier that month and mist with MBG Information to comment. Schulman, who replaced by YSL president Services, called the jobs report also had no comment, is be- Mark Lee. “terrible.” In addition to the lieved to be heading to The Other Gucci Group execu- economy’s slow performance in Gap in the U.S. tives who have left this year in- creating new jobs, McMillion A successor at YSL is ex- clude: Gian Giacomo Ferraris, said a 0.2 percent dip in the av- pected to be named as early as Gucci’s director of worldwide erage weekly hours worked dur- this week. Schulman is believed apparel operations, who left ing November and a $1.25-an- to have told PPR of his plans to Gucci in May to become ceo of hour decline in average weekly leave a few months ago. Jil Sander AG; Brian Blake, earnings are worrisome. Schulman joined YSL in former head of Gucci’s watch Given such declines, and 2000 from Gucci, where he had division and Boucheron jewel- looming federal budget and been worldwide director of ry house, who in May became trade deficits, McMillion said women’s ready-to-wear. Prior Burberry’s president and chief he’s concerned the economy to his stint at Gucci, he headed operating officer worldwide, lacks stimulus. In the last four sales and marketing at and Robert Singer, Gucci years “tax cuts have helped to Richard Tyler Couture. Group’s chief financial officer, keep consumer spending and Schulman’s exit is the most who in May became Aber- employers and business invest- recent senior executive depar- crombie & Fitch’s president ing,” he said. “It’s difficult to see ture at Gucci Group since PPR and chief operating officer. an engine in the economy now. circuit intermezzo accessoriecircuit intermezzocollections January 9-11,2005 The Show Piers 12th Avenue at 55th Street, NYC Photo & Business ID Enforced for Admission 9am–6pm Daily, 9am–5pm Last Day An ENK International Event Phone: 212.759.8055 Fax: 212.758.3403 Email: [email protected]

Spring/Summer 05 4 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM TOP TORTES NEW YORK — The Lady M Cake Working It Boutique, which opened this weekend, is striving to be the Cartier of cakes, NEW YORK — Thousands of tourists held up foot offering up perfectly round European- traffic on Fifth Avenue Tuesday night for the tree style confections in a white, narrow lighting in Rockefeller Center, but Jamee Gregory’s space on East 78th Street, just off eye® friends broke through the police blockades to fete the Madison Avenue. Instead of nostalgic fledgling author and her new book, “New York treats topped with messy dollops of Apartments,” at the Cartier Mansion on 52nd Street. icing, these flawless items are fit for An array “It’s a great night to pick,” said Lynn Wyatt, laughing. She was one of sophisticated taste buds only. of cakes many guests harping on the holiday mess and making jokes that, for “The taste is very delicate, very at Lady M. Gregory, the NYPD really pulled out all the stops. Gregory stood at high end; it’s not as sweet as your the front of the store greeting an endless stream of friends, from average cake,” says president and chief executive officer of Lady M, Hideyuki Niwa, a Coco Kopelman to Joanne de Guardiola, in the at-capacity crowd. former financier who started the business when he noticed an absence of good cakes Though the book features apartments from the likes of Carol in Manhattan. “You think of Payard and Fauchon and that’s about it. So I thought, Petrie and Georgette Mosbacher, Stanislas de Quercize, the chief ‘Maybe we could make a new brand successful?’” executive officer of Cartier, didn’t feel slighted that his wasn’t To that end, there’s Lady M’s signature treat, the trademarked Lady M Mille Crêpes, included. “My apartment is not that big,” he said. a layered cake made up of 20 handmade crêpes separated by creamy custard. “You The following night, Nina Griscom’s fete for her new uptown can count them. We may be off by one, but that’s about it,” Niwa says. “Nobody’s store brought out social luminaries such as Nan Kempner, Mica heard of this cake. We want to make it a common name — a bit like when you think of and Ahmet Ertegun, Anne Bass and Jeanne Greenberg Rohatyn. cheesecake, you think of Junior’s. Well, why not create Mille Crêpes, and everyone who Griscom loyalists perused the elegant space — designed by pal eats it will say, ‘Ah, Lady M, Mille Crêpes.’” James Kieran Pine — which features everything from jewelry by Other standouts include the Miroir Caramel, a chocolate sponge cake topped with Faraone Mennella and Prince Dimitri of Yugoslavia to furniture and caramel mousse; Gâteau au Citron, an enormous puff pastry sandwich filled with decorative pieces for the home. lemon-flavored cream cheese, and Gâteau aux Marrons, a takeoff on the Mont Blanc, a “It’s very stylish, just like Nina,” said Bass. Griscom greeted popular French dessert covered with spaghetti-like strips of chestnut cream. All the each of her guests with her 12-year-old daughter, Lily, by her side. cakes are kept behind glass on a 24-foot refrigerated display, complete with a cake- “We put this whole store together in six weeks,” said the weary Nina cutting station and trays of sandwiches, pastries and chocolates. Prices for the cakes hostess. Sloan Barnett stopped in, looking over the wares for Griscom range from $5 for a slice to $70 for a Tarte aux Fruits, and some of the standard-sized something to buy. “Anything to be as chic as Nina.” inin vintagevintage cakes can be shipped nationwide. Bill Blass. The shop, which has six two-person tables in the back, also will serve coffees, teas and champagne. “The objective is to provide an atmosphere where people feel that it’s different and unique,” Niwa says, adding, “The fact that we have all Baccarat chandeliers, no cake shop goes to this extent.” Despite all the health-conscious New Yorkers out there, Niwa is confident he’ll find plenty of consumers eager to indulge. “I don’t think people have really tasted what a delicious cake is,” he says. “I recommend you cut down on everything else, but always make room for the desserts.” — Jamie Rosen

Mica and Ahmet Ertegun Lily and Danny Baker Jr. Jeanne Greenberg Rohatyn

The mood lighting at 49 Grove. Nan Kempner Special Entry NEW YORK — Exclusivity, it seems, is the key for nightlife impresarios these days as yet another lounge boasting a restrictive guest list — 49 Grove — enters the fray on the heels of Frederick’s and NA. Lynn Wyatt at Cartier. Nestled in the basement space of a West Village building that used to house Halo, 49 Grove was born out of founder Aram Sabet’s veritable disgust over the city’s Jamee Gregory nightclub scene. “I grew up in New York City, I’ve been clubbing my whole life,” signing her book. explains Sabet, who also co-owns Pacific East, a restaurant in Amagansett. “But I just got really fed up with how we were being abused and treated at the clubs. The bouncers are getting ruder and ruder, and there is no discrimination at the door anymore.” After all, the monied Manhattan set has an appreciation for private clubs with a members- only mentality. It saves them from having to hobnob with anyone other than their own kind. To that end, the lounge will have a “master guest list” featuring socialites, celebrities, VIPs and the requisite bevy of alluring lovelies. Sabet finds clubs that insist on dues-paying memberships often lose their cachet, so he’s opting for a more relaxed — yet still private — approach. “It’s exclusivity in a Bungalow 8 mentality. It’s guest list only, and once you’re on it, you’re on it.” The lounge’s luxe decor features navy velvet banquettes, oversized ottomans, gray silk drapes and rich wall coverings. Sabet insists on a dress code because he doesn’t want clients to look like they just rolled in from the gym. No track pants, sneakers or wife-beaters here. The other edict: an unimaginably polite waitstaff. “It’s small, it’s intimate,” Sabet says of his new lounge, which opens this week. “I Carol don’t want it to be jam-packed, 10,000 degrees and a million people at the door Petrie fighting their way to get in and you can’t get a table, you can’t get a drink. It’s about at service, quality, elegance. It’s about having a good time and not being pressured.” TY PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; LADY M CAKE AND 49 GROVE BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA M CAKE AND 49 GROVE BY STEVE EICHNER; LADY TY PHOTOS BY

Cartier. — Anamaria Wilson R PA ,Bulova are registered trademarks©2004 . Bulova Corporation. 96R24 800 A BULOVA BULOVA.COM ieflies. Time Bulova so ars. 6 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2004 ▲ New Beach Club Alexandra Fairchild Ford shown with Moschino’s nylon canvas and leather bag with brass hardware. Oh, You Beautiful

NEW YORK — TheDoll fashion-conscious clique of high school girls in the movie “Mean Girls” is called the Plastics, but they have nothing on the Alex line of dolls — which includes fashion editor Alexandra Fairchild Ford and her pals Jadde Lee and Paris Williams — from the Alexander Doll Co. The 81-year-old company, which began in the kitchen of Beatrice Alexander Behrman, who started by making dolls for the Red Cross, always has been fashion-forward. It’s credited with creating the first plastic doll with Dupont, the first curvy doll figure, as well as movable “sleepy eyes.” Alexander Behrman channeled her love of couture into her doll making, even re-creating Queen Elizabeth’s 1953 coronation wardrobe. Since Alexandra is a fashion editor, she and her girlfriends were shoo-ins to model the season’s latest bags.

PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; FASHION ASSISTANT: MAHOGANY YANCEY; IMAGING BY ROBERT MESSYASZ; STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT ▲ Mod Jadde Lee wearing Golden Glow outfit and Sunset to Sunrise accessories, shown with Michael Kors’ straw, leather and silver bag. WWW.WWD.COM ▲ Soho Style shown with Etro’s ▲ Brief leather bag. Encounter shown with a leather and gold-plated Hermès Birkin bag. ▲ New Regatta, designed by Timothy J. Alberts, shown with Givenchy’s cotton canvas and leather bag with rope handle. ▲ Fashion Fix shown with Felix Rey’s lambskin bag. ▲ Ocean Drive outfit shown with Coach’s straw and leather bag. ▲ New Clambake

▲ Paris Williams, Stepping Out shown designed by with Oscar de la Renta’s Timothy J. Alberts, nappa leather bag with shown with anthracite and coral. Escada’s buckskin leather bag. 8 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Accessories Report

SPRING’S BEST BUY Christian Dior’s VANCLEEF & ARPELS’ COUTURE MOMENT Brooches and necklaces may be Detective bag. ▼ From brooches neatly pinned all the accessories rage, but this onto cashmere sweaters to hasn’t stopped luxury goods hous- long layered necklaces es from wishing to zero dangling from swan-like in on the must-have necks, statement- handbag — the kind making jewelry is that makes a woman’s experiencing a heart beat faster, a fashion moment. boyfriend or husband Its momentum The Dentelle necklace. run to the stores and a and visibility is leather goods execu- likely to increase tive laugh all the way next year as fash-

to the bank. ion designers contin- From Giorgio Armani ▼ Louis Vuitton’s Monogram Denim Neo Speedy bag. ue to turn out pretty, to Valentino and Jil Sander, feminine looks that call designers have been busy strengthening their accessories assortment. For spring, several con- for jeweled adornments. tenders for the must-have handbag have emerged, and they are the handbags to watch in 2005. Clearly, fashion and fine Louis Vuitton continued its collaboration with Takashi Murakami and offered a delightful monogram jewelry have never been closer. bag with a cherry print, but the house’s pièce de résistance is arguably the Monogram Denim Neo Jewelry house Van Cleef & Arpels is Speedy bag, made of stonewashed denim with red alligator trim and brass handles, for $5,709 at retail. exploring this notion with Couture, its Christian Dior whipped editors into a latest haute joaillerie collection of daz- frenzy at its spring runway presentation zling one-of-a-kind pieces to be launched at with its new top-handle Detective bags. a private dinner in New York on Sunday. They are available in cream, red and black Since being acquired by Compagnie and are inspired by Seventies and Eighties Financière Richemont AG in 1999, Van murder mystery shows. They range in re- Cleef & Arpels has adopted a strategy The Zip necklace. tail price from $1,440 to $2,790. that includes launching a high jewelry Other contenders include Chanel, collection every year. Two years ago, it in- which is adding a new twist to its Ligne troduced the The Century Collection based Cambon collection with leather and on 530 colored diamonds bought from a pri- python combinations, from $775 to $3,095, vate European collector. Last year, the venera- while Tod’s Venghe shoulder bag comes ble jeweler added Midsummer Night’s Dream, with distinct wooden hardware, from $950 which focused on themes of the ancient world. to $1,150. Couture draws from the Twenties for inspira- Tod’s Venghe bags. — Marc Karimzadeh tion and interprets fashion details such as lace, embroidery, ribbons, tassels and but- tons in precious metals and gemstones. “The Couture collection is directly A NEW PACK OF CONTENDERS inspired from our archives,” said Bags by houses such as Gucci, Christian Dior and Nathalie Guedj, president and Louis Vuitton always will be coveted by the fashion- chief executive officer of Van able, but prices in the last year have soared into Cleef & Arpels Inc. “Van Cleef & the thousands because of the weakness of the Arpels had two main inspiration dollar and the trend of using expensive exotic WWthemes: nature and couture. For skins. Sure, one could take the fake route and the past 10 years, we have been buy a knockoff, but for many self-respecting fash- 2 working much more on the nature ionistas that’s just not an option. As a result, What to Watch theme. We believe that now it is time there’s a growing market of handbag de- again to develop the couture theme.” signers catering to the consumer looking for Couture’s lace-like Dentelle group fea- something several thousand dollars shy of a tures earrings and rings with white diamonds $4,000 Louis Vuitton price tag. set in white gold and pink diamonds in pink gold, This fall, the runaway hit was Botkier’s Trigger while embroidery-inspired Broderie has a necklace bag for $475. The nascent company’s sales went to $5 and ring with flower motifs set with blue sapphires and tsa- million from $5,000 in a year, a representative said. vorite garnet leaves. The Zip group, meanwhile, is inspired Barneys New York devoted the majority of its floor by the zipper — its white gold and diamond necklace has a space in the Madison Avenue Co-op to the collection. zipper mechanism with a sliding ruby-set ribbon. Noeud Designer Monica Botkier, a former fashion photog- features pieces that draw from the knot, including a yellow rapher, smartly took style cues from designer houses — gold and yellow and white diamond double-knot ring. Balenciaga-inspired zippers and long leather pulls and “The designs are like clothes, they are very unique but at the a metal clamp closure that calls to mind Gucci — but same time, easy to wear,” Guedj said. still created a chic bag original enough to be unrecog- Couture starts at about $19,500 for a pink gold and diamond nizable to all but insiders. The spring line includes bags Noeud ring and can go up to $1.29 million for a white and pink dia- in canvas and leather as well as a new hobo shape. mond Dentelle necklace. The collection will consist of about 70 one- Botkier’s Luxe Trigger bag. Women like to discover a new bag on someone and of-a-kind pieces, though Guedj added that some will be duplicated ask “Where did you get that?” said Pierre Keyser, North at a later date. Select designs will be exhibited at the Fifth Avenue American distributor for French brand Lancel, which is boutique for two weeks before the collection moves to Beverly Hills relaunching its collection in the U.S. for spring. When it and Palm Beach. It will travel to Europe and Japan next year. first launched, and flopped, in 2001, the company went Asked why the company launched Couture in New York, head-to-head with Coach. This time around, the firm Guedj said: “The U.S. market is the number-one high jewelry plans a tight and exclusive distribution in a higher-end market in the world, and New York is more and more about fash- market. ion….It’s not just Paris and Milan anymore.” — Emily Holt — M.K.

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366 FIFTH AVENUE , SUITE 714, NEW YORK, NY 10001 212.736.6920 10 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Accessories Luella’s Lure By Ellen Burney

LONDON — As London’s unofficial queen of cool, designer Luella Bartley can afford to think big, which she does. With the first Luella flagship set to open in London next year, Bartley sees an en- tire Luella empire within her reach, emulating those of Biba and her fashion icon, Mary Quant. “I knew from the very beginning that I wanted Luella to be a brand with the whole lot: cosmetics, clothes, shoes and tights, etc. It was never just going to be about a really great silhouette, it was going to be a story, the whole package,” explained Bartley in her East London studio, a former class- room within an unused schoolhouse. “Luckily, the label’s thought of as cool and people want to buy into the image. There are so many brilliant ready- to-wear designers in London, but very few brands.” Bartley has no doubt, though, that for now, it’s her bags that drive the business. “This season, we’ve sold 2,000 pieces of clothing and 30,000 bags,” she said, adding that 70 to 80 per- cent of the business comes from the U.S., where the label is sold in Bergdorf Goodman, Henri Bendel, Neiman Marcus and Barneys New York. “For the last two seasons, our sales projections have been mainly focused on the U.S. and U.K. markets,” said a spokes- woman for VSQ Distribution Ltd., a division of Christina Ong’s Club 21, which has been the global licensee and distributor of Luella accessories and women’s wear since fall 2003. The spokeswoman added that the Luella accessories business has tripled each season at specialty stores and experienced dou- WW ble-digit growth at department stores. 2 Sources estimate the company’s annual sales to be about $21.8 million. The spokeswoman wouldn’t comment on this figure. What to Watch The best-selling style is the Gisele, a young, Birkin-style bag now synonymous with the Luella label that wholesales for $358. With its cross harness-straps and signature love-heart trinkets, the Gisele launched for fall 2002 as a one-off design for the British acces- sories label Mulberry. BARTLEY PHOTO BY TIM JENKINS PHOTO BY BARTLEY “It obviously carried us as well as the association with Mulberry,” said Bartley, who launched her ready-to-wear collection in fall 1999. “It’s our classic style, but we change it a lot, sometimes adding appliqué, brocade or, as for spring, snakeskin and the apple design.” Designer Stuart Vevers, who works with Bartley on all the Luella accessories, has coinci- dentally joined Mulberry as design director, but will continue to work on the Luella label. Clockwise from top left: Wholesale prices for the bags typically range from $158 to $398. Prices are Bartley’s alligator Giselle higher for bags made with exotic skins. An ostrich style, for instance, whole- bag, Luella Bartley, the sales for $1,126, while a crocodile handbag wholesales for $5,000. snakeskin Carmen biker bag The label’s modern flair caught the attention of Robert Burke, vice presi- and a doctor Giselle bag. dent and senior fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman. “No one ever came onto our fashion scene as strongly as Luella did, and she’s un- doubtedly one of our strongest British labels,” Burke said in an inter- view. “When we picked her up, she definitely started the British trend for us, with designs that were fresh with a very interesting ap- peal, certainly a classic shape but with hardware and detailing.” The latest styles for spring include tan minirucksacks, Carmen biker bags and canvas holdalls in the spring collection’s apple, snake- skin and crocodile-skin prints. “Our customer’s appetite for newness and novelty is extremely high, and Luella’s always adding new colors and materials,” Burke said. This dramatically more sophisticated style is perhaps because of the label’s new global expansion. “For spring 2005, we have mainly been concentrating on Europe where we will be in all the top specialty stores in Italy, such as Corso Como Milano, Biffi, Gio Moretti and Luisa Via Roma,” said the Club 21 spokeswoman, adding that expansion also looks set for Asia. “We are currently experiencing a lot of interest from some large companies regarding a potential distribution partner for Japan, and we are now close to signing. We have experienced interest from parties in Korea and Hong Kong wanting to open a shop-in-shop concept in department stores, but at the same time, we’re looking to choose the right partner.” As for Bartley, she isn’t quite ready to grow up. “At the end of the day, I still think I’m a little girl that wants to make handbags.” WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2004 11 WWW.WWD.COM Ibisco’s beaded striped cotton belt. FROM THE HIP Now that trucker caps have reached their popularity peak, the next trend that is ‘so bad it’s really good’ might just be fanny packs. Those misshapen utilitarian sacs that hung from one too many tacky tourists’ waistlines in the Eighties have recently been co-opted by hipsters. A buyer for Beacon’s Closet, the Williamsburg, Brooklyn vintage store, said she has purchased and sold quite a few, including a retro Chanel number that can hang off a belt or double as a purse. The fanny pack has also been spotted on stylesetters on the streets in Williamsburg and Manhattan’s Lower East Side WW and SoHo. And then there’s even the band Fannypack (which went for the dorki- 2 est name it could think of, according to the group’s producer-DJ Mike Goias). Wendy Mullin, designer of the New York-based Built by Wendy line, and Judi What to Watch Rosen, designer of the accessories line Miss Dater and owner of the East Village boutique The Good the Bad and the Ugly, are both pros at picking up what’s under the radar. For fall, they have both created versions of the fanny pack. Mullin’s are tailored and militaristic with three button-through flap pockets. TOTALLY WAISTED They come in green tweed and navy sued- It’s difficult to say ed canvas and wholesale for $35 each. whether the belt is back, Rosen’s take honors the classic crescent but there is no doubt it’s shape, complete with a webbed belt and been getting more play. Prada showed thin plastic buckle, except drops the rugged versions on its fall runway, and for next nylon for leathers printed with brash geo- spring, designers went for high-waisted or obi- metric patterns. They wholesale for $50. style looks. As for the mainstream consumers, Come spring, the fanny pack will also be they gravitated toward soft fabric belts this available in denim from Wrangler 47, the con- year. Preppy grosgrain styles with country- temporary collection Mullin designs for the club icons and embellished silk sashes were venerable jeansmaker. It wholesales for $15. strong sellers, and judging from vendors’ There’s a new twist, though. These days, Chanel’s waist bag for spring. spring collections, the trends will continue sometimes fanny packs are called “belt JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY through the first half of next year. bags” or “hip bags.” Urban Outfitters, which now offers a fanny pack on its Web site, calls it a belt “I think denim got belts back in the pic- bag and merchandises it in the belt, not the bag, section. It’s flat like an envelope and all leather — ture,” said Vanessa Witke, designer for one- no webbed straps here. Good taste can be bought, it seems, as it retails for only $28. year-old sportswear and belt brand Ibisco. The Chanel, meanwhile, is doing a luxury version of the belt bag. For spring, Chanel offers a silk and low-slung styles that accompanied hip-hugger gold camellia print waist bag from its Bohemia group. It retails for $650 and will be available at jeans are still popular, but going forward, cus- Chanel boutiques nationwide. tomers might be more open to wearing them on Outlaw Consulting of San Francisco, whose clients include Nike and Levi Strauss, has a theory their waist wrapped around a cardigan or shirtdress, she said. that explains the return of the fanny pack. According to a recent newsletter posted on its Web site, Ibisco’s spring offerings include fabric belts with ribbon ties, em- the fanny pack — along with big plastic earrings, beards and moustaches, the early Nineties, white bellished with paillettes, buttons and beads. Going into the sec- tennis shoes and Southern rock — is an “Emerging Ironic Statement.” ond half, she’ll add brooch buckles and soft suede styles. “Soft “The concept is simple,” the newsletter explained. “Take something so uncool that it causes a re- belts are easy to wear and they’re adjustable,” she said. “If you re- action, wear it with a combination of humor and confidence and it becomes cool…As a trend, irony member the belts of the Eighties, they were sort of cool and very shows no signs of waning.” rock ’n’ roll, but they didn’t appeal to a lot of people.” — Cate T. Corcoran — Emily Holt

712 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10019 1 800 537 7463 12 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Accessories Graff’s Kind of Town By Beth Wilson

CHICAGO — Visitors to the new largest-of-its-kind Graff store in Chicago could barely contain their awe. “It’s so jaw-dropping,” said Heather Farley, who visited the luxury jeweler on its first day of business along upscale East Oak Street here last Wednesday. “It’s absolutely breathtaking. It’s not every day you see these kinds of pieces.” Indeed, it is not. Near the store’s entrance, the 100.57-carat Star of America diamond, along with a 45-carat pear-shaped diamond on its own $5 million necklace, greet visitors from a gleaming golden-framed mahogany display. Just steps away is an impressive assortment of rare blue diamonds, includ- ing a 13.78-carat deep blue heart-shaped diamond ring valued at $15.45 million. WW “You won’t see that anywhere else; it’s very special,” noted Henri 2 Barguirdjian, Graff ’s president in the U.S. The jeweler believes Chicago will be a special market, as well. That’s why What to Watch Graff, with two U.S. stores, in New York and Palm Beach, built its largest unit here. Purchasing the property that once housed BCBG Max Azria, Graff tore down the building and created its own not-to-be-missed signature four-story, limestone 7,500-square-foot town home. Its marble floors, archways, winding staircase and golden- framed displays built into the stone-finish walls may at times give visitors the feeling they’ve entered an intimate, centuries- old European museum or exclusive Swiss bank. “As soon as we started to trade in New York,” Barguirdjian said, “we encountered a vast clientele from the Midwest. We thought we could bring something that didn’t exist here, some- thing really exceptional.” Chicagoans agree. Graff sold a few pieces, including a $200,000 yellow diamond bracelet and a $110,000 charm bracelet, during its grand-opening party Tuesday night. It followed those sales with brisk business on its first full day of trading The new four-level Graff store at 103 East Oak Street in Chicago. Wednesday, Barguirdjian said. “It’s been nonstop,” he said, noting four sales that morning. “If everyday is like today, business will be terrific.” The average sale in a Graff store is $200,000, Barguirdjian said, adding that most clients are not necessarily the society set or celebrities but rather private entrepreneurs and business peo- ple who enjoy collecting art and fine jewelry. “The majority of people are in their 50s,” he said. “They’re

PHOTOS BY KAREN HOYT PHOTOS BY very discreet. You rarely see their names in the press.” The 100.57-carat D flawless diamond. In turn, Graff believed Oak Street, with its “understated re- finement, fit our image and our product” better than Michigan Avenue, Barguirdjian said. Other upscale retailers such as Hermès, Prada, Tod’s, Barneys New York and Yves Saint Laurent all sit along Oak Street. Graff is almost directly across the street from Hermès, between Kate Spade and Arden B. The prominent building possesses room for offices and two floors of about 4,000 square feet for retail and special events such as dinner parties or art presentations, Barguirdjian said. Graff ’s Chicago business will be strictly retail, with Barguirdjian stating he sees little competition. But then where were its customers The dramatic store interior. shopping before Graff came to town? “Maybe Cartier or Tiffany, but it’s not really the same kind of Models Ingrida, Oxana and Natalia in client,” he said. Graff jewelry at the party. Graff ’s price point ranges from $7,000 for an eternity band to $15.45 million for the rare heart-shaped blue diamond ring. Engagement rings account for roughly one-third of sales, Barguirdjian said. In addition to opening the Chicago store, Graff plans to expand further into the U.S., opening a store in the Las Vegas Wynn Resort this April. Los Angeles may be the next stop for Laurence Graff, who started his business 45 years ago and now operates two stores in London as well as ones in Monte Carlo, Monaco; Courchevel, France; Moscow; Dubai, United Arab Emirates, and Tokyo. To help promote its brand in the U.S., Graff has partnered with Saks Fifth Avenue. Currently, Graff jewelry is available at nine Saks locations, in California, New York, Texas and Florida. Barguirdjian Natalia Baltrusiazis and Henri Barguirdjian, Michelle Klarchek and Laurence said he expects Graff ’s presence to grow to 22 Saks stores, where the average sale is $35,000. Graff and Lisa Cotten and Francois Graff at the opening party.

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LONGCHAMP USA - 435 A US HIGHWAY 130 NORTH - YARDVILLE, NJ 08620 - PHONE: 609-581-5555 - FAX: 609-581-5559 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2004 13 WWW.WWD.COM Legwear Report Treading Lightly Into First Half of ’05 By Marc Karimzadeh and Emily Holt intricate open works to bolder graphic product that they more than statements like argyles and printed hosiery. need.” NEW YORK — Legwear makers anticipate another Our outlook for 2005 is to continue double- challenging year, but hope an upswing in the econo- digit growth in all Hue product segments. We John Flynn, vice president of sales, my encourages consumer spending. One of their expect to achieve this growth by offering a Levante USA key concerns is the absence of a clear legwear trend continuous flow of new, relevant and trend-right “Shapewear is still a very big part to drive consumers into stores, such as the products, by creating distinctive products of the trend going forward. Also fishnet and bright colored opaque styles for every class of trade using brand strong will be the fishnet, both in of past seasons. In addition, spring vehicles such as Hue and No knee highs and in different variations continues to be a lackluster selling Nonsense. It is all about being like a maxi-net, a regular fishnet, season as more women embrace inventive, listening to our retail fishnet stockings, fishnet thigh highs, bare legs during that time. partners and to consumers, and a micro-net. Legwear as a fashion WWD asked legwear and driving business through statement will also continue to be very executives crucial questions innovation and newness.” strong. If a woman likes the look of a as they head into the new print or way the style is constructed, year: What will be the most Susan Reese, vice president there is really no price barrier. important legwear fashion WWof sales, Soxland International Being a European line, we are trend in 2005, and why? What Inc. watching the euro carefully. We have to try is their outlook for the 2 “At Soxland, the key trend to maintain price points and the margins.” PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN business and the single most What to Watch next year is really all about important factor influencing or being pretty. That means Nadine Hall, vice president, challenging their view? Here, a embellished socks and novelty Sara Lee Hosiery look at their responses. yarns like Lurex in softer colors. “Texture will continue to be important in The shapes are going to be extreme — 2005. But the most important trend is legwear Julia Townsend, executive vice president we will see either really short shorties or as a must-have accessory that completes an and general manager, Kayser-Roth Corp. knee highs. We are doing shorties with delicate outfit. Whether it is sheer, toeless or opaque, “The most important legwear trends for 2005 details such as a flower or dog embroidery on the some sort of legwear will be part of a woman’s are color, prints and embellishment, whether front or on the back or the side. We are also doing wardrobe. Legwear, similar to handbags and overt, such as openwork and rhinestones, or appliqués and embroidery combined. brooches, will put the finishing touches on sophisticated and subdued, such as shimmer We have had some bright spots this year, like ready-to-wear, especially with the options hosiery. One of the most important things to introducing Chinese Laundry, and we are really available in color and texture. acknowledge is legwear as a key accessory. happy with the results. All of the imports that There will still be a decline in sheer Women have come to embrace legwear as an have flooded our market from China have been hosiery, but it will be softened by more formal accessory to express their personal style. It is not inferior in quality, and with the uncertainty about and feminine fashions. Skirted suits will be surprising that, like shoes and handbags, color, what will happen with the quotas, I think it will more prominent, and they are featuring prints and embellishment are driving legwear help our business. We don’t manufacture in China relatively short skirts. And even more trends.…Legwear is eclectic right now, and but in Taiwan. For us, it won’t only be about relevant than the trends in fashion is women are comfortable moving from legwear price, but also delivery and product. That’s the the decline in the number of pieces that offer sophisticated surface interest big issue. That and to get the people into the companies with casual dress like shimmer and shine to feminine looks such as stores. We need to motivate the people with Continued on page 14 Hue

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Legwear Socks Stride Forward

Continued from page 13 be strong, especially with the styles of boot that are policies. The trend in general is away from everyday coming out. A lot of fishnets and different types of open casual.” weaves will be popular as will motifs like martini glasses, handbags and beach totes on a sock. We’re Susan Spindell, national sales manager at Hot Sox already geared up for fall, too. With regard to yarns, “For us, it’s all kind of treatments, like beading and angora is going to be very strong, as will soft, chenille ruffling. It’s fun. People don’t wear a lot of socks in and plush yarns. We’re doing a lot of embroidery and a spring and this way, you have to give them a reason for lot of patterns like hearts on the cuffs. buying. We are also trying to incorporate some shoe “[Business next year will be] outstanding. There will treatments into socks, like gel bottoms to give them be a little bit of a hiccup with the whole quota issue for more of an athletic feel. China, but after that pans out, I think back-to-school I feel very positive about spring, but it’s a short will be tremendous. The war is slowing down, the season. You want to get the most bang for your buck election is over, everybody seems more relaxed. For quickly. You get three months on what used to be a six spring, the thing driving the business will be open month season. You have to lead with your strength weave socks in pastels, fishnet tights in red or black, because you don’t have the luxury to flow it every four and motifs.” to six weeks. I take my best spring group, and I offer to ship it in December. It gives stores a chance to move Raymond Dayan, vice president, Gina Hosiery away from all of the holiday motifs. It really stands out “For spring, it’s all about color, and we did a lot of when you put it on the fixture. At the end of January, I conversational prints, very detailed. Also, we’re doing will flow another shipment of spring. The very well with socks in anything feminine, fun, business has to be done early because it pretty and lacy. I think that everywhere, stops so soon in the season.” people have come to accept color. Eight to 10 years ago used to be the same Jennifer Puckett, sales and marketing way, it was fantastic, and then we had director, Wolford those years everything was black, “We are still seeing the net being gray and brown. But now the important, particularly that very greens, the oranges and pink are Levante lightly knitted look for spring, as well popular. “I think business will start to stabilize and level off, as graphic patterns. The graphic does I think it’s life. I think people and then it’ll start to pick up. Each year gets better and not have to be a hard graphic.…We WWare in a better mood. The better [in sales] as we get away from 9/11. People have are still seeing that pretty feminine economy’s doing better. Last been holding onto their money. Now when they are out look as important for spring, and one 2 spring, color had a big season and spending, they’re looking for things that are high quality. of our top-booking styles is a very What to Watch through fall, people are adjusting With all the fun sneakers that are out there, people will beautiful floral pattern called Fidgi. and buying color. In the sock start to wear fun socks and liners with them. Women in We think we’ll have a strong spring. business, I think people have come to particular don’t like to wear sneakers without We have had a good reaction on both realize it is an accessory, not a necessity. something.” legwear and bodywear. I think we are still It’s an inexpensive way to dress up dependent on footwear, and the fact that you an outfit in the same way a pin Donna Waxman, U.S. agent for Fogal of Switzerland still see closed-toed shoes will help us, or hair accessory is. “Butterflies are what a lot of people are looking for, as will the popularity of skirts.” Based on how business was floating all over the hosiery, multicolor and emerald in 2004, we’re up 27 percent for green. We’re also doing hand-embroidered butterflies Pat McNellis, president of women’s 2005. Fishnets will continue; you on top of socks and knee-highs as a decorative thing. brands, Royce Hosiery Mills don’t find them as strong as last Fishnets are almost considered a conservative basic for “An important trend will be about year, but it’s a piece of the spring. But customers are still looking for very loose personal choice and personal business customers are crochets and new textures. Last spring we did an adornment. The customer will be responding to. We haven’t seen appliqué and handpainted styles and they didn’t work buying products that will be any indication why business very well. I think the butterflies come from the customized for her. That will would slow down, if anything, European runways. influence what we do next year in we’ve seen the contrary. The “I think that spring is going to be as weak as it always all of our brands. Rather than say consumer’s accepting something is and into summer. We’ve seen a decline in that that it’s one particular look, it’s more different like cashmere or business as customers are wearing body glitter on their of a lifestyle trend. I think it can angora yarn. That’s a good legs or self-tanning. We always have a slow spring; we translate into legwear in lots of indication they’re willing to do 35 percent of what we do in fall and winter. That ways, whether it’s something spend a little bit more to get a said, we’ll do really well in the second half. We’re handcrafted or the ability to be little bit more.” coming off that bright opaque trend from last year. But personalized in some way. It’s based on the economy improving, I think it’ll match last purchasing something that makes Robert Sussman, president, fall when we had that huge trend in the market.” her feel it is something more Every Toe Covered individual…a product that will “Color and color with Jerry Perry, vice president design and merchandising, Legale speak more to one’s personal metallic in socks and trouser “An important trend for spring is the sporty preppy taste than a dictated trend. socks will be strong, especially look, on socks particularly. The shorter capri-length “We have to be cautious, because pink, lime green, orange, socks are embroidered with bright color accents, very I am hearing that retail in the U.S. turquoise and purple. Buyers country club. We did snails, butterflies, palm trees, will be tough. I am hearing are going for sheer crew socks, goldfish, lobster and geckos just placed at the top of the American consumers are facing Hot Sox sheer low tops, and low-cut sock. I think because of the fun, sporty, athletic preppy decreased spending power, and the sport socks in all different look we saw in hats and belts last spring, it’ll be in apparel category may suffer as a treatments and patterns. With legwear this year. We got a taste of it, but I think we’ll result. Therefore you have to interest the sport look doing such a strong see a lot more of it. her even more with product that speaks to this particular spring showing, updating it and doing I think our total assortment looks fresh and clean for personalized trend. You have to push even harder.” fashion styles in low-cut socks is really working. Sheer 2005, so we’re hopeful about sales. Accessories are ribbing, polkadots, open work and pointelles are big. It’s doing so well in general that we can only be hopeful.” Karen Bell, chairman, K. Bell not a tight mesh, it’s more a lot of open work. “First of all, we’re doing lots of athletic inspiration. Everybody was raving about business this year, and it Arthur Lavitt, president and chief executive officer, Paul No-show socks continue to be strong. There’s a lot of very was just OK. I think the first half of next year will be Lavitt Mills Inc. basic styling. Then there’s a whole embellishment trend. OK, too. If you have something different, the retailer “For the first half of the year, no-shows and accessories We did metallics, rhinestones, fringe and lace. The will buy it. You have to think outside the box. If you do for the ankle and foot will be important. Things like lace embellishment started with the brooch this year, and things in salable colors, you have a shot. The spring anklets and foot socks, anything really feminine like floral eventually everything trickles down. We also did a denim sock business is always hard, but we have new patterns, anklet no-shows will be strong. Also microfiber and line, which uses indigo yarn. Jeans are so hot, you’ve new textures and new looks, like our fuzzy metallic toe anything with a soft hand seems to be doing well. Fishnets never seen so many brands of jeans in your life, so why cover. Fun is going to be huge; you have to give the and lacy looks are continuing. I think the look not give the customer something to wear with them? customer a reason to wear it.” complements a lot of the shoes. The lace anklet and “We’re already ahead [for next year based on spring junior looks go well with Steve Madden shoes [Paul Lavitt bookings] because of the sports influence and the Caron Schillinger, director of marketing, Biella Mills holds the license for Steve Madden socks]. strength of shorter silhouettes like the no-show and “I think there’s going to be a lot of striped tights, a lot We’re hoping business will increase. This year was quarter socks. The first half of 2005, at least, will be of novelty tights out there, luxury fibers. People are our best ever. It’s always a challenge [to top that] but we very, very strong. In general, retail seems to be very looking for merino wool and little embellishments like have some new licenses we’ll be announcing soon that strong, and it seems like the department store real mohair trim or a little flower. You’re seeing it on the will be terrific. As long as you can continue to produce estate [for socks] continues to expand.” clothes now, and it’s definitely going to be in legwear, new product, there’s opportunity for business growth. over-knees with fluffy tops. There will be lots of color, in The China quota may be a challenge balancing imports Elie Levy, president, E & E Hosiery/Planet Sox particular fuchsia, turquoise, lime and orange. People with domestics, and some of our domestic suppliers are “In regard to bodies, knee-highs and over-knees will are tired of darks. raising prices.”

16 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Fine Jewelry Report A New Dawn for Diamonds By Samantha Conti

LONDON — Clothing designer Roland Mouret, who Shaun Leane every day wears a dice-sized diamond suspended from a razor blade on a white gold chain, has grown accustomed to strangers asking him about the stone. “It looks like a big crystal with a lot of light in it,’’ Mouret said of the rough stone, which is part of his small diamond jewelry collection, launched three years ago. “People are very attracted to it — even though they don’t know what it is.” Mouret, who plans to unveil a second, more formal diamond collection in the summer, loves that people respond to his stone before learning it’s a diamond. “After the whole bling trend, it’s time to push boundaries with diamonds, to disturb the values of luxury,’’ he said. “I want people to react to the stone itself, to love it with- out the drivers of media and advertising telling them it’s a diamond.” The French-born, London-based Mouret isn’t the only man taking on what was once the reserve of brides-to-be, elegant heiresses — and most recently Donatella Versace, David Beckham and Elton John. Fashion designers, including Vera Wang and Vivienne Westwood, and traditional jewelers are creating trendy — and tra- ditional — diamond collections to satisfy a growing demand for the rocks, appeal to an expanding customer base and grab their share of what is essentially an unbranded category. Some 80 to 90 percent of the dia- mond market is still unbranded, said Stephen Lussier, worldwide marketing director of the Diamond Trading Co., the marketing arm of De Beers. The diamond jewel- ry category generates $60 billion at retail worldwide, and the DTC estimates that figure will grow 5 to 6 per- cent annually, on a compounded basis. “It is a massive Louis Vuitton category, and there is still significant room for brands to Georg Jensen expand,” said Lussier. For five years, the DTC has been working behind never before. The growth of designer acces- sories brands has snowballed right into the jewelry cat- Roland Mouret egory.” Shaun Leane, a London-based jeweler and the man behind the jarring jewelry designs on Alexander McQueen’s runway, has always worked with diamonds and other precious stones. Now, however, he’s shifting WW into high gear with help from the DTC sightholder Star Diamonds. Next year, with help from Star, Leane 2 will unveil a 90-piece diamond collection that will What to Watch include a poison ring that pops open, scapulars with a pierced heart in the front and a rising sun in dia- monds in the back, and Art Nouveau-inspired pieces in yellow and white diamonds. “Years ago, there was fashion jewelry — and then a big break — and then high-class, classic diamond jew- elry,” said Leane, a professional goldsmith who spent the scenes to help match fashion and jewelry more than a decade apprenticing in London’s Hatton houses with the appropriate diamond producers — one Garden, a district packed with diamond merchants and reason the market is seeing such a boom in fine jewelry. jewelry workshops. “The public saw diamond jewelry as “We went out and sold the jewelry industry to new out of their price range. Today, fashionable jewelry in players, including Gucci, Escada and Georg Jensen, and precious materials is becoming more common, and peo- we put people together,’’ Lussier said. “Now the business ple are seeing diamonds as stylish — and affordable.” has taken on a momentum of its own — they’re doing it Fashion and accessories houses, which have been without us,” Lussier said. fanning the flames of brand worship for more than a To wit, Mouret’s second diamond line will be pro- decade, are also taking their seats at the sparking table. duced in partnership with one of the DTC’s sightholders, Last year, Vera Wang introduced her first collection of the people who cut, polish and distribute diamonds to jewelry, which is produced under a partnership with jewelry makers worldwide. Westwood is working with Rosy Blue Fine, a subsidiary of the Antwerp-based dia- another DTC sightholder to develop a diamond range mond concern Rosy Blue Inc. due out in the spring. Official announcements regarding In addition, Ralph Lauren recently introduced a col- both lines are expected soon. lection of fine jewelry, while other big luxury brands Earlier this year, Georg Jensen introduced a series of such as Gucci, Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton are diamond jewelry collections, ranging in price from stepping up their jewelry assortment. In July, Vuitton about $2,350 to $122,000, to mark its centenary. unveiled a 110-piece collection awash in gold, dia- “The vast majority of our customers are executive monds and semiprecious stones. Yves Carcelle, women who buy for themselves,’’ Hans-Kristian Vuitton’s chief executive officer, said it was too early to Hojsgaard, president and chief executive of the Danish comment on sales (the collection has been on store jeweler, said during an interview in London. “With the shelves for just a few weeks), but he is confident about rise in popularity of the right-hand ring, pendants and the overall strategy. diamond starter items, we know we have a seat at the “For years, fine jewelry was seen as something to branded diamond table.” mark a wedding, birth or anniversary,’’ Carcelle said in a Hojsgaard said 20 months ago, Georg Jensen’s dia- telephone interview from Hong Kong. “Jewelry stores mond business was virtually nonexistent. Today, dia- were a destination. Now, with fashion brands like mond jewelry makes up 25 percent of the jeweler’s $146 Chanel or Vuitton, customers can view fine jewelry as an million business (110 million euros at the current impulse buy — like clothing or accessories. It’s about exchange rate), and during the past six months, sales of making jewelry part of the shopping sensation.” the diamond jewels have grown 87 percent. Before the Carcelle said Vuitton would be opening a 377-square- diamond collections were introduced, the average foot jewelry annex to its store in Hong Kong’s Peninsula Jensen customer was 40-plus years old, Hojsgaard said. Hotel in January. Now she’s 35-plus. Lussier said there is no doubt the future is about “We’re getting a much younger customer franchise branding. “Some designer names will click — and their thanks to the diamonds,’’ he said. “Younger people are distribution will broaden. And we’ll see the more design- more brand aware today, and brands are important like oriented lines reach a broader market.” Eliot Danori® The New Look of Real

THE COLLECTION: $25 TO $110 (SUGGESTED RETAIL) NADRI JEWELRY GROUP 45 WEST 36TH STREET 12TH FLOOR NEW YORK 10018 (212) 683-2972 18 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM European Holiday Offering Little Cheer Continued from page one Italy are expected to fall 20 percent. In general, it seems the high end will Deloitte said December holiday fare best — as it so far has in the U.S. — spending should rise 20 percent in spurred by some tourist trade, especially Ireland and 14 percent in the U.K. from Japan and China. Retailers also Clothes are expected to fare poorly, said Americans are trickling back, de- which appears to be the case so far in the spite the high value of the euro and the U.S., as well. As in America, Europe is pound against the dollar. And it seems expected to have a techno-Christmas, with that European shoppers are ready to video games, flat-screen televisions, CD shell out big bucks for powerful brands, players and mobile telephones among the executives said. top gift categories, according to Francois Jean-Michel Hallez, director of Galeries Forget, director of retail research firm Lafayette’s store in Paris, said shoppers Conseil Nationale de Sucursalistes de have been attracted to high-end acces- l’Habillement. sories from Louis Vuitton, Prada, Dior and “Sales of electronics and appliances Gucci. Hallez said sales accelerated in are on line to increase about 5 percent November and that the store is gunning for this year in France,” said Forget. a 6 percent increase in December. “Clothing sales are down about 2 percent, “November was better than had been but this is mostly due to price deflation.” expected,” added Hallez. “Yet there are According to Deloitte, almost 40 per- challenges. Shoppers are buying more gifts, cent of French consumers are concerned but they are spending less on average.” about the future economy and Deloitte Analysts think the environment is least projects that average household holiday propitious for middle-of-the-road retailers spending will drop in France to 551 euros, (again, a pattern so far seen in the U.S., or $731.18 at current exchange, from 565 where Wal-Mart Stores Inc. already has euros, or $749.76, last year. been forced to switch course for the holi- Hypermarkets are expected to suffer Christmas decorations at Galeries Lafayette in Paris and Eickhoff in Germany. days and begin aggressive price promo- most in France. In September and tions over the weekend). Some European October, sales of clothing at French leading them to believe the season could A similar trend also has been noticed stores also already have changed tactics. hypermarkets, such as Carrefour, make up for the year’s accumulated losses. in clothing. In Britain, for example, the struggling dropped 8.9 percent from the same two For the first 10 months of 2004, apparel At upscale store Jades in Düsseldorf, Marks & Spencer has granted its staff of months last year, according to the Institut sales in Germany decreased about 3 per- store manager Biggi Heider reported that 67,000 an exceptional 40 percent reduc- Français de la Mode, or IFM. Meanwhile, cent, according to BTE, Germany’s associa- business had been brisk. tion off Christmas shopping in an attempt in the same period, sales of clothing at tion of clothing retailers. “Expensive jeans, such as Seven For to boost sales. And last Thursday, M&S department stores in France increased “We are very satisfied with the season’s All Mankind, Rock & Republic, Chip & held a one-day sale, slashing 20 percent 3.1 percent, IFM said. start,” said a spokesman for Karstadt, one Pepper and True Religion, are selling off clothing, toiletries and homeware. “Department stores have benefited from of Germany’s biggest department store really well,” she said. “Brands like Juicy Early sales are expected to be wide- increasing tourism from Japan and China,” chains. “Sales have been better than last Couture and Amor & Psyche are also pop- spread at stores throughout Europe, ana- said Forget. “Despite the high euro, there year. The stores were packed right up to ular. We have customers with massive lysts said, as consumers begin to feel the have even been some Americans.” the close of business.” buying power who are not so concerned pinch of weak or slowing economies. In a Luxury ready-to-wear has sold briskly Albert Eickhoff, owner of Düsseldorf ’s about the price.” recent report, Lehman Brothers’ retail at Le Bon Marché, the upscale depart- high-end specialty store, Eickhoff, report- Jeweled belts, ornate brooches, expen- analyst, Frazer Ramzan, said he expected ment store in Paris. ed that sales so far were up by 10 percent sive boots, negligee tops and delicate Christmas to be “disappointing” for U.K. Confections from Rochas, Lanvin and Jil compared with last year, while Hubertus cardigans are particular favorites. retailers and that early price cuts would Sander have been top sellers, according to Pellengahr, of the German retailers’ asso- Petra Fladenhofer, spokeswoman for be needed to boost business. Severine Merle, the store’s image director. ciation, HDE, said the first weekend of KaDeWe, Berlin’s oldest high-end depart- Consulting firm Deloitte in Paris said “Generally, the trends are very femi- Advent showed a strong increase in ment store, said luxury had been kicking it expects consumers to do more compar- nine,” she said, adding that designs from turnover. strong. ison shopping. It added that more than 60 Miu Miu, Marni, Vanessa Bruno and Pellengahr believes German con- “The most expensive fashion has been percent of Europeans are expected to Diane von Furstenberg had been popular. sumers are now making up for having selling especially well,” she said. “It seems shop at the last minute with hopes to prof- “The bestsellers are embroidered held off buying for so long. that, when people do buy, they are going it from price reductions. skirts, evening gowns and cashmere “If this keeps up until Christmas, we for quality. They are prepared to spend Footfall, the U.K. retail traffic monitor, sweaters,” Merle said. “Brooches and fur will hopefully be looking at positive end- money on global brands and major labels. said shopper numbers so far have been scarves, Ugg boots and ornamented of-year figures,” he said. Perhaps it is because in uncertain times weak. Traffic in stores increased only 3.1 accessories are good.” Once again, however, apparel fared less like these, people are looking for security. percent in the last week of November Lingerie also has been a surprise sell- well than other sectors at the larger depart- Brand names provide that security.” compared with an expected rise of about er. “It’s becoming more of a Christmas gift ment stores. Such retailers as Kaufhof and Luxury also is selling in Italy. Toni 10 percent. David Smyth, director of mar- category for us,” said Hallez, adding that Karstadt said sales were strong for digital Tanfani, owner of two upscale stores in keting and strategy at Footfall, said shop- sexy and cheeky designs, such as those in cameras, plasma-screen TVs, DVD payers, Ancona called Gisa, said sales were strong pers were “taking a break and waiting for the new Kylie Minogue line, were most in laptop computers and mp3 players. for new, special items. Tanfani mentioned better offers later in December.” demand. Beauty products, toys, perfumes and cruise accessories from Gucci, Prada and Europeans are expected to be thriftier “Cashmere sweaters and scarves for watches also have been highlights. Fendi, as well as the new Luella Bartley this year. Deloitte said the average men are good,” he said. “It looks as if men Surprisingly, considering the country’s bag, among the store’s bestsellers. European household would spend about are going to be getting more than socks economic difficulties, consumers are “Brands still have a very strong 4 percent less on Christmas this year than this year.” Hallez added that fragrances focusing on top-of-the-range goods, many appeal, and customers that know the last. It predicts that Germany — Europe’s from Dior, Guerlain, Chanel and retailers said. brands will pay for that,” added Tanfani. largest economy but one that has strug- Lancôme were selling quickly. “People are really prepared to spend — With contributions from gled for the last few years with burgeon- Despite Deloitte’s predictions of a sharp more on quality,” said Karstadt spokesman Adam P. Schneider, Paris; ing unemployment — will see the steep- slowdown in holiday spending in Germany, Elmar Kratz. “They are prepared to spend Samantha Conti and Nina Jones, est decline, with a 38 percent projected some retailers there said Christmas so far five, six or seven hundred euros on an London; Damien McGuinness, drop in holiday sales. Holiday sales in has brought unexpected spending levels, espresso machine.” Berlin, and Luisa Zargani, Milan

spokeswoman for the designer, Adrover is She’ll also KING COLE: “Tamara is actually wearing hoping to find a more receptive audience for wear designs Kenneth Cole shoes, but don’t bring it up Fashion Scoops his designs in Europe than he experienced in by Lauren — because she gets mad if you point it out,” said the U.S., where his frequent exploration of who’s a close Kenneth Cole of Jimmy Choo president Tamara CONTINENTAL SHIFT: It’s been a long and Middle Eastern dress and unorthodox approach friend of Mellon during a party in London to celebrate bumpy ride for designer Miguel Adrover, who, to brand building has stirred up plenty of “Phantom” the publication of “Women to Women: despite critical acclaim, has struggled perhaps controversy, but not enough sales. director Joel Positively Speaking.” more poignantly than some of his Schumacher Cole sponsored the party, which took place contemporaries to make his offbeat vision a RED-CARPET RALPH: Fresh off her win for best — to events in Thursday night at The Orangery at Kensington financial success. Things have only gotten breakthrough actress from the National Board Paris and Palace with guests including Sir Elton John, tougher since Adrover lost his financial backing of Review last week, actress Emmy Rossum is Munich, and Bianca Jagger, Sienna Miller, Sam Taylor-Wood, in the wake of the failed experiment in bound to be getting a lot of attention from another Jasmine Guinness, Christopher Bailey and American conglomerate building, Pegasus admiring designers. But for the world custom gown Tommy Hilfiger, who was in town for the U.K. Apparel Group, which had bought his company premieres of her latest work, “The Phantom of is in the works launch of his H Hilfiger collection. as part of a spate of acquisitions in 2000, the Opera,” she’ll exclusively be wearing for the New Mario Testino, another guest, shot the shortly after Adrover’s debut. Ralph Lauren. York debut women’s portraits for the book, which is aimed at Although Adrover carries on, lack of The 18-year-old actress has become next week. raising awareness of women living with HIV/AIDS. adequate financing has now forced the something of a muse to the designer, turning up After that, Testino, sporting his new golden locks, said designer to close his New York business at his spring fashion show and wearing Lauren Ralph Lauren’s sketch for David Lauren is he’s definitely having more fun as a blonde, altogether, with plans to reopen in the coming to multiple appearances. For the film’s big Emmy Rossum. planning an although his IQ has remained the same since weeks in his home country of Spain, where he premiere in London tonight, Lauren created a intimate dinner he dyed his hair for his 50th birthday. “I will be partially supported by a government custom gown for Rossum, a strapless rose petal for Rossum to introduce her to the rest of the figured, why have it for one night? Why not go grant to build a new studio. According to a pink dutchess satin gown with a simple tail. fashion crowd. for it and, inhabit the look?” exclusively at V. Fraas www.fraas.com

New York 212.575.0191 • Toronto 416.703.8969 • Chicago 312.670.0320 • Boston 603.749.5738 • St.Louis 314.739.7699 Minneapolis 320.762.1419 • Seattle 541.902.8840 • Atlanta 404.588.1669 • Denver 303.776.6924 • Detroit 248.788.4728 20 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Innerwear Report

JLo Lingerie by Jennifer CELEBRITY CONNECTIONS Lopez is merchandised in Hollywood’s obsession with lingerie kicked into high gear this year, and even more major department stores. deals are anticipated in 2005. Tinseltown met Seventh Avenue with high-profile names from the music, TV and movie industries, helping to create a new genre of celebrity lingerie: JLo Lingerie by Jennifer Lopez at The Warnaco Group; Pamela Anderson Intimates at Vandale Industries; Australian supermodel Elle Macpherson, whose Elle Macpherson Intimates collection will make its debut in North America in spring 2005, and Jessica Simpson, Pamela whose multilevel master licensing deal with JS Anderson Brand Management is expected to include inti- Intimates mate apparel for the back-to-school season. Intimates Adding to the demand for celebrity-status un- sells in dergarments are other sex symbols. They include mass Paris Hilton, Anna Nicole Smith, Jaime Pressly, channels. supermodel-turned-actress Rachel Hunter, and se- ductive songstress Christina Aguilera, who are shopping for intimate deals, according to licensors and manufacturers. Robert Stone, president of StoneAmerica Licensing, said actress Amanda Bynes, who starred in “What a Girl Wants” and “Big Fat Liar,” is among the newest players angling for a celebrity licensing franchise. “She’s looking to expand her name with fashion apparel in the junior market to midtier and better department stores. We’re looking to co-brand her name with a designer,” said Stone, noting that bodywear and active-related separates are planned. Neal Hamil, executive vice president of Ford Models, said there is an insatiable appetite for li- censes for women’s lingerie and men’s underwear that have a star quality. “Lingerie is still a very hot area for sexy supermodels, actors and athletes,’’ Hamil said. “I do not see that ever changing. They just look great in their BVDs, and their fans identify with them and want to emulate them. It’s the same concept as fra- grance and athletic gear. “There are Ford clients who are very interested in the lingerie arena,” Hamil said. “Rachel Hunter has a new licensing deal in the U.K. called Ultima, and after ‘Gilligan’s Island’ [a new reality show] in which she plays Ginger, there should be ad- ditional interest in her in the U.S. market. Lindsay Lohan would be a natural for this category as she has such a beautiful face and figure. And as far as Paris Hilton goes, she’s still interested. The kid is an industry.” Regarding Ford’s roster of male clients who are seeking a lingerie liai- son, Hamil said, Marcus Schenkenburg is also a natural. Our newest client, super sexy tennis star Mark Philippoussis — ‘The Scud’ — is whose first campaign for fall 2003 was to launch Calvin Klein Pro perfect as well. He has launched his own line of men’s wear in his Stretch underwear. Warnaco is considering casting its Speedo native Australia under the MP label, and an underwear collection spokesman, Olympic gold medalist Michael Phelps, in ads for its is planned.” new Fastskin by Speedo men’s underwear line. While there is hunger for celebrity-status pacts, a new twist is Sara Lee Corp. has pushed the celebrity connection further taking shape for celebrity-linked lingerie: the entertainment this fall with four high-octane names to sell its lingerie: Jenny diva spokeswoman. The idea took off in 2002 when Queen Garth, spokeswoman for Hanes Pure Bliss daywear and under- Latifah ignited lingerie exposure for full-figured women as the WWwear and co-star of the Warner Bros. TV series “What I Like spokeswoman for the Curvation bra brand by VF Corp. The idea About You;” Stacy London, Bali bra spokeswoman and TV show expanded this year at Calvin Klein Underwear, which commis- 2 host of TLC’s “What Not to Wear;” TV Guide Network’s celebrity sioned Academy Award-winning actress Hilary Swank to star in style consultant Melissa Rivers, who is also a spokeswoman for ads for the Calvin Klein Sensual Shapers line. What to Watch Playtex’s TGIF bra brand, and “American Idol” judge Paula Abdul, The new face for the Calvin Klein Underwear spring 2005 men’s who did a Barely There Tagfree promotion during fashion week. underwear ad campaign is U.K. soccer player Freddie Ljungberg, — Karyn Monget

The Real Sexy by Vassarette brand THE ETHNIC EQUATION is aimed at the While a majority of manufacturers and retailers acknowledge the melting pot of multi- ethnic market. cultural consumers has untapped potential in the $12.4 billion innerwear market, the ethnic market continues to be addressed as a small, niche business by major depart- ment and specialty stores. A key reason: a lack of real estate to display expanded assortments and colors, par- ticularly in sleepwear departments, several retailers said. “They just don’t have a lot of space, and that’s a real issue at department stores,’’ said Anne Keenes, a merchandising and marketing consultant and a former vice president and general merchandise manager at Saks Fifth Avenue. “The Latin, African-American or Indian woman for that matter has a different take on color. And I do think sizes defi- nitely are a big part of the equation.” However, the demand for foundations aimed at a wide range of multiethnic con- sumers is skyrocketing, and companies such as Sara Lee Corp. and VF Corp. are pumping up their advertising and marketing campaigns for bras, panties and shapers in fashion colors and expanded sizes. The leading brands include Sara Lee’s Playtex, Entertainment Hanes and Hanes Her Way; VF’s Real Sexy by Vassarette and Curvation by Bestform diva Queen labels, and the Maidenform bra brand. But for Donna Wolff, vice president and divisional merchandise manager of intimate ap- Latifah is the parel and hosiery at Bloomingdale’s, a “consumer is a consumer,” regardless of ethnicity. spokeswoman for “Within intimate apparel, a bra is a bra, and underwear is underwear,’’ Wolff said. “If a Curvation by woman chooses to wear a thong or a brief, we can service her with what we have.” Bestform bras She did acknowledge, though, that addressing ethnic consumers in the sleepwear and shapers. and loungewear areas offers a real estate challenge. Terry Deliz, a native of Puerto Rico and designer of Feminina sleepwear said, “We [Hispanic women] don’t wear a lot of black or brown. We want a certain look and we’re not afraid to show more breast, more femininity. We live with color in the Caribbean, and we want different colors and styles for figures that are more curvaceous.” Whatever the approach, the two highest-channel outlets for multiethnic consumers are specialty stores, of which Victoria’s Secret maintains control, and mass merchants, dominated by Wal-Mart. At specialty stores, African-Americans spent $242.4 million on lingerie; Hispanics, $223 million, and Asian-Americans, $25.7 million, according to 2002 NPD data supplied from other sources. At mass channels, African-Americans spent $242.2 million; Hispanics, $170.6 million, and Asian- Americans, $4.4 million on lingerie. — K.M. WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2004 21 WWW.WWD.COM Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW P/E (00’S) LAST CHANGE WWDCOMPOSITE STOCK INDEX VS. S&P 500 RETAILERS 47.35 23.07Abercrombie Abercrombie & &Fitch Fitch 19.9 145159 45.08 -1.40 34.38 16.83Aeropostale Aeropostale 21.7 66983 29.40 -0.56 44.59 14.80American American Eagle Eagle Outfitters 21.1 116145 43.22 -0.19 31.43 19.98Ann Ann Taylor Taylor 13.2 162399 20.45 -2.52 41.50 15.22Bebe Bebe 39.0 35724 37.86 1.08 4.95 1.40Bluefly Bluefly - 8729 2.34 -0.31 S&P 500 17.95 9.62Bon-Ton Bon-Ton 13.5 5203 15.10 0.28 24.29 17.42Burlington Burlington Coat Coat 15.6 3661 23.62 -0.50 23.63 11.31Cache Cache 20.2 3280 16.58 0.51 28.97 18.65Cato Cato 18.1 6643 28.50 1.64 22.24 10.43Charlotte Charlotte Russe Russe 16.1 39665 10.82 -1.35 9.59 5.09Charming Charming Shoppes Shoppes 15.2 49430 9.26 0.22 47.60 30.51Chico’s Chico's FAS FAS 29.1 130440 43.40 3.00 33.90 16.77Children’s Children's Place Place 25.8 38746 32.45 0.90 47.34 32.90CVS CVS 20.0 90652 45.76 0.03 27.01 18.74Deb Deb Shops Shops 21.4 434 25.00 0.28 26.86 14.58Dillard’s Dillard's 36.4 48706 26.20 -0.49 23.19 16.91Dollar Dollar General General 21.2 179525 20.29 -0.41 WWD COMPOSITE STOCK INDEX 19.45 14.36Dress Dress Barn Barn 17.3 7678 16.87 -0.05 117.33 54.53eBay eBay 107.3 427525 116.41 4.91 39.66 25.09Family Family Dollar Dollar 19.0 104561 29.01 -2.47 8/27 9/10 9/24 10/8 10/22 11/5 11/19 12/3 58.16 42.54Federated Federated 14.3 131064 55.09 -2.24 27.59 19.97Foot Foot Locker Locker 16.8 67215 27.05 0.60 25.72 18.12Gap Gap 17.3 357292 21.48 -1.56 14.80 7.35Goody’s Goody's 20.3 6195 9.03 -0.97 9.15 3.14Gottschalks Gottschalks 19.5 4313 8.50 -0.19 19.58 11.14Guess Guess 22.6 22097 12.98 -1.88 4.25 1.15Harold’s Harold's Stores Stores - 557 1.15 -0.21 WWDSTOCK INDEX DIPS 32.30 13.85Hot Hot Topic Topic 17.1 173285 15.96 -3.95 41.50 22.29J.C. J.C. Penney Penney 19.6 165010 38.74 -1.82 NEW YORK — Reeling from a batch of largely weaker-than-expected same-store sales reports and a sluggish monthly 119.69 22.41Kmart Kmart - 117700 103.96 -3.43 government employment report, the WWD Composite Stock Index ended last week down 1.9 percent at 1,163.01 54.10 39.59Kohl’s Kohl's 25.1 199459 47.65 -1.30 from 1,185.89 a week earlier. 27.89 16.68Limited Limited Brands Brands 15.7 235177 24.08 -1.70 36.48 23.04May May Dept. Dept. Stores Stores 14.2 163156 28.46 -1.73 The broader S&P 500 index, however, was up 0.7 percent at 1,191.17. Standard & Poor’s retail stock index 28.07 12.21Mothers Mothers Work Work 11.3 5506 12.93 0.06 closed the week 1.5 percent lower at 454.6 from 461.46. 70.28 47.48Neiman Neiman Marcus Marcus 15.2 15222 67.57 -1.63 Most apparel retailers reported November same-store sales on Thursday and many missed analysts’ estimates as 46.68 31.58Nordstrom Nordstrom 16.8 117053 43.48 -1.65 25.78 17.25Pacific Pacific Sunwear Sunwear 17.7 177547 22.15 -1.54 the combination of fewer promotions and higher gas prices appeared to make consumers apathetic, even during the 46.81 37.90Regis Regis 19.0 8858 45.40 -0.03 Thanksgiving shopping weekend. 9.70 4.10Retail Retail Ventures Ventures 19.8 2907 7.08 -0.26 Notably, shares of Ann Taylor Stores dropped 11 percent in the week to $20.45 and are near a 52-week low after the 32.86 20.95Ross Ross Stores Stores 20.2 49097 27.05 -0.92 17.92 11.61Saks Saks 23.6 121063 14.49 -0.15 company posted an 8.3 percent decline in November comps. The retailer cited poor customer response to merchandise. 55.90 31.21Sears Sears 5.4 197689 52.30 -2.00 Shares of Ann Taylor were subsequently downgraded to “underweight” from “neutral,” and company earnings 20.49 12.14ShopKo ShopKo 13.2 18008 17.80 -0.75 estimates were cut at J.P. Morgan Chase & Co. 42.01 26.14Stage Stage Stores Stores 14.0 40816 40.71 2.15 Shares of Gap Inc., which posted a 4 percent decrease in consolidated November same-store sales, closed the 19.18 7.60Stein Stein Mart Mart 36.2 29512 16.23 -0.27 14.01 6.75Syms Syms - 3970 13.47 1.26 week off 6.8 percent at $21.48 from $23.04 last week. 39.82 24.11Tal Talbotsbots 15.6 32670 28.18 -0.93 Following the same-store sales reports, two brokerages downgraded shares of discounter Target Corp., despite its 54.14 36.19Tar Targetget 24.6 228613 51.70 -0.51 in-line same-store sales showing a 3.2 percent advance. Citigroup Smith Barney cut Target shares to “hold” from 26.82 20.64TJX TJX Cos. 16.7 145181 24.29 -0.31 4.20 1.77Urban United Outfitters Retail Group - 1482 4.05 0.05 “buy” late Thursday based on the belief that few catalysts exist to push the stock above the brokerage’s $55 price 48.47 16.29Wa Urbanlgreens Outfitters 41.2 84867 41.90 -2.71 target. Analyst Deborah Weinswig said in a report that she prefers shares of Wal-Mart Stores Inc., even though Wal- 61.31 50.50Wal-Mart Wal-Mart 23.9 1002655 52.93 -2.39 Mart posted a softer-than-anticipated 0.7 increase in November comps at its U.S. stores. 11.13 0.69Wet Wet Seal Seal - 75004 1.61 -0.39 “The [Target] stock’s current valuation fully reflects the company’s streamlined focus on its core business follow- 6.75 1.95Wilsons Wilsons Leather Leather - 10826 4.49 -0.66 31.30 24.59Zale Zale 15.0 16196 30.31 0.28 ing the divestiture of Marshall Field’s and Mervyn’s,” wrote Weinswig, who is also worried that Target is up against VENDORS difficult same-store sales comparisons through May. 52.30 39.51Alberto Alberto Culver Culver 21.9 12971 47.27 0.77 Meanwhile, Lazard Freres & Co. analyst Todd Slater dropped his investment rating to “hold” from “buy” and cut profit es- 46.65 30.67A Avonvon 12.7 164792 39.58 1.00 27.25 20.60Benetton Benetton 32.5 238 24.98 0.44 timates on Target largely based on valuation, saying that at around $52, the stock is within 3 percent of his $54 target price. 31.18 19.50Cherokee Cherokee 17.5 1165 30.46 0.31 “The current favorable valuation justifiably reflects Target’s faster and more visible organic growth rate since the 54.00 32.50Coach Coach 34.2 82603 52.46 2.72 divestiture of its department store assets, as well as its ability to execute a more upscale and differentiated model 62.18 49.22Columbia Columbia Sprtswr Sprtswr 18.2 14025 58.70 0.75 34.75 24.20Del Del Labs Labs 19.4 395 34.47 0.12 relative to Wal-Mart,” Slater wrote in a research report on Friday. 25.16 17.59Elizabeth Elizabeth Arden Arden - 6405 22.81 -0.17 Target shares closed the week down 1 percent at $51.70, while Wal-Mart shares were at $52.93, off 4.3 percent. 49.34 36.59Estée Est?e Lauder Lauder 25.9 36762 45.11 0.71 Aside from the disappointing sales data, anemic jobs growth in November cast another shadow on retail stock perform- 32.37 17.19Fossil Fossil 15.7 27164 26.22 -1.68 ance, as retailers lost employees during the month, in contrast with what is usually a month filled with holiday-related hiring. 10.89 5.75G-III G-III 21.6 278 6.25 0.12 41.23 32.77IFF IFF 19.1 24401 41.15 0.79 Nonfarm payrolls in November rose by only 112,000, compared with expectations for an increase of 200,000, 33.36 11.32Inter Inter Parfums Parfums 19.8 11661 16.31 1.38 according to a Labor Department report released Friday. Further, October and September nonfarm payroll numbers 40.00 31.75Jones Jones Apparel Apparel 14.2 35882 35.58 -0.69 were revised down by about 54,000 combined. —Meredith Derby 45.10 31.32Kellwood Kellwood 12.0 16474 35.31 0.57 37.39 24.66Kenneth Kenneth Cole Cole 16.9 7209 30.75 0.85 42.35 32.09Liz Liz Claiborne Claiborne 15.0 38163 41.52 -0.31 5.08 2.67Mossimo Mossimo 20.3 353 3.74 0.23 19.40 12.79Movado Movado 18.1 3154 17.91 -1.07 WWDStock Market Index 87.80 63.22Nike Nike 22.6 42748 86.72 1.63 Weekly % Changes Ending Dec. 3 2.65 0.46Novel Novel Denim Denim - 510 0.98 -0.05 47.50 29.60Oxford Oxford 17.1 6673 40.90 -0.75 29.95 18.70Perry Perry Ellis Ellis 7.8 3368 19.48 0.00 Composite: Retailers: Vendors: Largest Gainers Largest Losers 29.95 16.45Phillips-Van Phillips-Van Heusen Heusen - 16220 27.41 0.11 1163.01 1133.55 1319.31 40.94 27.28Polo Polo Ralph Ralph Lauren Lauren 19.7 22581 40.62 0.17 31.15 14.70Quiksilver Quiksilver 23.3 28880 30.60 0.86 Close Change Close Change 42.95 31.25Reebok Reebok 13.1 38841 39.83 0.17 Syms 13.47 10.32 Hot Topic 15.96 19.82 3.93 1.96Revlon Revlon - 48424 2.19 0.00 19.73 15.60Russell Russell 11.8 6509 19.06 0.37 Inter Parfums 16.31 9.24 Wet Seal 1.61 -19.50 4.13 0.71Tarr Tarrantant - 8373 1.95 0.05 -22.88 -29.17 22.16 Chico’s FAS 43.40 7.43 Harold’s Stores 1.15 -15.44 18.25 8.47To Tommymmy Hilfiger Hilfiger 8.6 32611 10.24 0.50 4.88 0.88Tr Tropicalopical Sprtswr Sprtswr - 4794 1.45 -0.01 Mossimo 3.74 6.55 Wilsons Leather 4.49 -12.82 5.79 0.65Tr Trueue Religion Religion Apparel Apparel 56.1 24360 5.05 -0.40 Index base of 1000 is keyed to closing prices Cato 28.50 6.11 Guess 12.98 -12.65 55.29 40.25VF VF Corp. Corp. 13.0 30133 54.16 0.06 of Dec. 31, 2002. 22.76 14.21Wa Warnacornaco - 18464 20.70 1.07 22 WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Financial Forecast Execs View Changing Face of Retail By Arthur Zaczkiewicz product,” he said. “It’s the ability to look at fabric, for example, from NEW YORK — The rules of more than one country and saying, retailing are changing. ‘That’s the best place to get the As the big get bigger, the pace fabric,’ and then looking else- of consolidation has quickened, where and saying, ‘That’s the best which leaves retailers vying for place to get the trim.’” better market positions, and con- While sourcing becomes more sumer loyalty to traditional retail complicated, “at the end of the channels is waning. On the opera- day, it drives better product tions side, poor inventory man- development, and at some level, agement, once fixed by steep better pricing,” Darling said. markdowns, may break a retailer. On the branding front, the pan- There are strategies retailers elists agreed that diversification of can engage in to grow their busi- a brand is playing a more impor- ness in this climate, said indus- tant role at retail. Sokol said the try executives who took part in a executive team at Vera Wang, after roundtable hosted by Berns examining its brand, “found an Communications Group, a busi- opportunity to clearly define two ness communications firm spe- segments of the brand: bridal and cializing in retail and fashion. fashion.” The panel, moderated by WWD, She explained that the compa- included Susan Sokol, president of ny studied these markets, how Vera Wang; Laura Pomerantz, their products were positioned principal at PBS Realty Advisors, a and the seasonality of the busi- From left: Robert Skinner, Rick Darling, Susan Sokol, Gilbert Harrison, Laura Pomerantz and Scott Bernstein. commercial real estate boutique nesses, “and then we positioned with a focus on retail and fashion; the brand to grow.” quality of product.” companies was to look at their some extremely high premiums Rick Darling, president of Li & Sokol said it is critical to Pomerantz pointed to a trend real estate,” Bernstein said. “And being paid out there,” he said. Fung USA, specializing in global identify the tangible assets of a evolving in the retail real estate what they found were some hid- But that’s OK, the banker added, sourcing and supply chain man- brand before marketing or grow- segment known as lifestyle cen- den jewels that had real value.” “because the quality of the deals agement; Gilbert Harrison, chair- ters, “which are open-air shop- Real estate offers many retailers is much better.” man of investment bank Financo ping centers that mix national “untapped value.” An example is Meanwhile, Wall Street has Inc.; Robert Skinner, president retailers with local boutiques.” Kmart Holding Corp., which closed pressured public companies to and chief operating officer of The centers provide upscale stores after its bankruptcy last year, grow their businesses. Kellwood Co., and Scott shoppers with convenience, she sold off units to The Home Depot Skinner said for many firms Bernstein, principal of SB said. “And in secondary mar- and later sold stores to Sears, to drive top-line growth, “you Capital Group, a Schottenstein kets, it meets a pent-up Roebuck & Co. Asked if he thought need to make acquisitions.” Stores Corp. affiliate that pro- demand for fashion.” Kmart had jettisoned its best stores, “We are in a no-growth or vides a wide range of services The overwhelming reason Bernstein said: “I don’t know if they nominal-growth business.” to retailers. for the success of lifestyle sold their best-performing stores, Skinner explained, adding that The panelists discussed centers is the consumers’ but they sold stores that had signifi- apparel industry sales, year-over- how to maximize the supply WWdesires for shopping at spe- cant value. They were the ‘A’ stores year, barely break 1 percent. “So, chain, diversify a brand, cialty retailers. The criteria in terms of value.” for big companies to increase reach new channels, leverage 2 for their development include Bernstein pointed out that the sales, they have to acquire. The retail real estate and identify affluent neighbors and an value of a retailer’s real estate is second reason why we do them is new growth partners. What to Watch annual income of at least not realized until the leases to raise operating margin and our Darling tackled the impor- $75,000, Pomerantz said. “This and/or stores are sold. But when return on capital.” tance of maximizing the supply compares to annual household it’s time to sell, retailers reap the Because Kellwood is also in chain. Companies are looking at incomes in other shopping center benefits right away. the portfolio-management busi- the best factories to produce markets of $35,000 to $60,000.” Lord & Taylor is one example ness, acquisitions are one way to goods “without concern about She added that the tenant mix where stores were closed and diversify and mitigate the firm’s the best country,” he said. ing the brand. “I also think it is includes “a luxury retailer to meet benefits were quickly realized, risks, Skinner said. This phase in the evolution of important to look at your total the pent-up demand for those “which had a direct result on He noted that brand acquisi- supply chain management cen- business and identify untapped products,” as well as an anchor improving gross margin,” tions are often done as a way to ters on improvements to the areas in the marketplace that store, “be it a Neiman Marcus or Bernstein said. “And this is some- branch out into new markets, entire chain, from product devel- could be a natural extension of Saks or whatever.” She said that thing that could not have other- something Kellwood did this opment and sourcing to informa- your brand, and then pursue the idea is to create ambience that wise been achieved through year with the $140 million acqui- tion technology, as well as social those opportunities for top-line is “more Main Street than mall,” sales growth.” sition of Phat Fashions. responsibility and compliance. growth,” she said. with architectural nuances such as On the mergers and acquisi- He disclosed that Kellwood’s “And that is a huge fundamen- For example, when Sokol a Spanish motif, something “that tions front, Harrison said it’s criteria for an acquisition tal shift in the way people view, joined Vera Wang, she worked has charm and personality.” been a busy year. “And it’s been a include brands that resonate not only sourcing, but their entire with the team to identify “a real Meanwhile, retailers have confusing one, too, especially with consumers, “and that was supply chain,” Darling said. void in the marketplace,” which been going through a retrospec- with the announcement of Jones not necessarily the case a decade Other shifts likely will stem she describes as “accessible lux- tive period in which they looked Apparel Group buying Barneys ago.” The apparel firm looks for a from the end of apparel and tex- ury.” The idea was to offer fash- at their portfolios and asked New York,” he observed. “Other company that can grow, and tile quotas on Jan. 1. “The lifting of ion apparel to aspirational con- “themselves what they had, and than the rationale of being able to there must be good people in quotas [on China] is an issue, but sumers at the right price point. what they could do with it, so test consumer reaction to prod- place at the top, he said. the real issue is the value that is Sokol offered a caveat, noting they could impact gross margin,” uct, I don’t understand what the Over the past five years, Skinner unlocked when you start to look at that licensing works “if done Bernstein said. rationale is with this deal. It will noted that VF Corp. has done about the best place to make a particular well, with the right partner and “A no-brainer for a lot of these be interesting to see how it 10 acquisitions; Liz Claiborne has evolves, and whether it spurs completed eight; Jones Apparel, other ‘out-of-box’ acquisitions.” about eight, and Kellwood, seven. You’ve Got The Order... Harrison said deals over the Kellwood has done about a deal a past year reflect “the tremen- year for 20 years, he said. Are You Sure You’ll Get Paid? dous impact private equity funds Skinner and Harrison said Serving Businesses for 75 Years! are having on the market.” price tags on companies also have Sterling Factors: “They are competing with all risen. “Certainly, the prices and •Protects your receivables of the strategic buyers,” Harrison multiples are trading up,” Skinner •Puts cash back into your cash flow said. “And in some cases, they said. “I used to laugh when people may even pay more for a compa- talked about deal prices as a •Opens letters of credit to bring in product ny than a strategic buyer.” ‘times-sales’ rather than a ‘times- ...and we do it all as part of Sterling National Bank! The banker said the private EBITDA,’ but we’re getting to that Sterling wants to be your financial partner. For your own pieceof mind, equity funds have about $100 billion territory pretty quickly.” Contact: explore the possibilities by calling one of our relationship managers. to spend. Recent deals include Sun Asked if Kellwood would con- Capital buying Mervyns; Crescent sider acquiring a company with For Factoring call Stanley Officina, For Asset-Based Lending call Robert Schnitzer, Capital purchasing Loehmann’s, a strong brand, but that was mis- President Vice President and J.W. Childs Associates acquiring managed, he cited a mantra of Sterling Factors Corporation at 212-575-4413 Sterling National Bank, at 212-575-4446 Joseph Abboud. 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play begins with the predators — an 18th-century French gown with leopard spots that was last seen in the institute’s “Dangerous Liaisons” show, juxtaposed with Cavalli and Geoffrey Beene gowns with tiger-patterned paillettes. As for the The Jungle Look prey, Bolton has included examples of Rudi Gernreich’s 1960s “Total Look,” a giraffe print tunic and tights, as well as Cavalli’s By Eric Wilson zebra printed suits. The docile creatures, Bolton said, evoke a feminine sense of coquettishness, whereas the more aggressive NEW YORK — Handling wild animals is a dangerous sport, as feline prints can be seen as symbolic of the seductress. “Crocodile Hunter” Steve Irwin would attest on the Animal Either way, it’s hard to miss the connection of shimmering Planet. So would Andrew Bolton, even when the animals are feathers or bold prints to their function in nature. Humans are confined in a glass zoo in the basement of the Costume Institute into displaying their sexuality, just like the animals. Bolton at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. emphasizes that point with a pair of bunny costumes, one from The accent is British, rather than Australian, but Bolton, the a Playboy waitress whose name tag, “Danelle” remains institute’s associate curator, approaches his prey with the same attached to her suit, the other a modern interpretation by sense of caution and awe as a tracker, describing a pink confec- DSquared for the men’s magazine’s 50th anniversary. There’s tion of Balenciaga ostrich plumes or a Thierry Mugler jaguar- also a 1674 etching of a group of fur muffs and stoles by spotted catsuit as if they might pounce. Wenceslaus Hollar, shown alongside the real things to under- For his latest show, “Wild: Fashion score their libidinal connotations. Untamed,” opening today, Bolton set out to “Designers have employed animal prints explore the animal kingdom and its relation and fur as symbolism of various ideas of fem- to fashion, demonstrating how the various ininity throughout history,” Bolton said. skins, furs, feathers and animal prints have “But recently, fashion has taken on a much evolved as inspirations and visual effects in more hypersexualized look.” design. He discovered in his research an Brazilian designer Carlos Miele, who pro- Ostrich feathers from Cristobal Balenciaga, interesting pattern upon which the exhibit vided a headdress made of macaw feathers, 1965, and Hubert de Givenchy, circa 1966. is based — that the rise in popularity of ani- red silk, suede and leather inspired by elab- mal embellishment tended to occur at orate styles of Amazon tribes, said the colors moments of political turmoil, including in and textures of animal skins and feathers the mid-18th century, the 1920s, 1960s and have been the subject of fascination through- the present. out history for their association with power, “It’s unlikely that it is a coincidence,” luxury and desire. Bolton said. “Certainly, animal prints are “Five hundred years ago, natural pig- about the assertion of an empowered per- ments and plumage art of the Brazilian sonality.” Indians were taken and integrated to the The idea for the show was put forward by Europeans’ way of dressing,” he said. “My Richard Martin, the Costume Institute cura- work does a dialogue between the primitive tor who died in 1999. Martin wanted to do a and the contemporary, making use of the show themed around the “Costume technology of the leather with Lycra and the Institute Zoo.” Bolton revived the concept Brazilian indigenous handicraft.” A swimwear look with duck and pheasant upon seeing a broad return of animal prints Bolton similarly argued that the contem- in fashion, as well as the heightened inter- feathers by Giorgio Sant’Angelo, 1971. porary references to animal skins has as est in fur in recent years. He garnered financial support for the much to do with the past as the present. Beyond any underlying show from Roberto Cavalli, a designer who is to animal prints reaction to the political environment, there’s the continuing what a duck is to water. Cavalli, who is in town to open the show influence of hip-hop culture on mainstream fashion, he said, with a party tonight, said his personal interest in fashion ani- citing Sean Combs’ appearance in Vogue in a white fox coat by mality is not politically motivated, but rather derives from his Nija Furs as a symbol of wealth and male virility. Additionally, interest in beauty found throughout nature, such as flowers. technological advancements in fur that have enabled designers John and Laura Pomerantz are also financing the exhibit. to create mink and fox designs that resemble fabric have “There are so many beautiful things that could be a nice attracted a younger audience. inspiration for fashion,” Cavalli said. “For sure, the animal This is dangerous ground for the Met, making a point that print is so special, beautiful and colorful, especially the feline. would potentially provoke the anger of animal rights activists, But what the Met exhibit does is show that there are the same but Bolton believes the museum takes an objective approach in Roberto Cavalli’s gown of pink inspirations to designers in more than one century.” its study, incorporating fake-fur looks and ad campaigns from ostrich feathers, silver beads and “Wild” takes a long-term approach, telling the history of fur People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals along with the paillettes from fall 2003 greets in one vitrine, referencing what Bolton described as a primor- classic mink coat — actually the one from Maximilian that visitors to the “Wild” show. dial influence in the use of raw leather in another, and dedi- Blackgama gave to Lauren Bacall in 1972 for her appearance in cates the largest display to “birds of paradise.” A “tigress” dis- its “What Becomes a Legend Most?” campaign. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY

Diesel, Hugo Boss and Lacoste. Sand, a Danish designer selling casual sports- wear and denim sport coats, also is sold in Shopping on the Fly Runway Fashion, marking its U.S. debut. Runway Exclusive is expected to open By David Moin to create stronger ties to the community, in January selling Hermès and Ferragamo. are in the works, according to Alain Maca, The Runway retail grouping is operat- NEW YORK — Setting a higher standard president of JFK IAT LLC, the private ed by a joint venture between Aer Rianta for airport shopping and easing the angst joint venture that designed and built International, a duty-free company based of overseas travel, The Shops at Terminal Terminal 4 and continues to operate it. in Ireland, and Saveria, a Vienna-based 4 at JFK International Airport officially “We will be religious about this,” he company running retail shops in that city took off Thursday night. said, while gazing at the fashion show, and in the Vienna Airport. And it was all systems go, with a runway which featured a mix of fashions in the The same group operates the show, raffles, a pasta and lo mein party shops and some vintage airline uniforms Swarovski, Tie Rack, DKNY, Fossil and and a lot of steep discounts spotlighting covering six decades. “We expect that The Brew Store [for liquor- and beer- the four-block-long, 100,000-square-foot travelers, the airport community and peo- related apparel and accessories] in The linear array of fashion and jewelry bou- ple who live in nearby neighborhoods Shops at Terminal 4. tiques that have been steadily debuting for that are now connected to Terminal 4 by The complex is fully leased and stores the past few seasons at the site. the AirTrain will want to shop here.” are averaging just more than $22.50 in It didn’t matter whether you had a plane Amid the silvery, stainless steel, mod- sales per departing passenger, a common ticket or not. About 500 airport employees, ern environment, the lineup of retail measure of productivity for airport retail- From the Sixties, Pucci for Braniff; travelers and those picking up or dropping ranges from an 11,000-square-foot DFS ing. “That’s above average,” said Carol Pacific Southwest’s go-go look at off passengers saw the show. The Shops at Galleria to an 800-square-foot DKNY. The Fish, commercial director. “But it’s very The Shops at Terminal 4.

Terminal 4 is located before security pale sleek look enables the merchandise different for each tenant. A jewelry tenant DAN D’ERRICO PHOTO BY checks, making it accessible to everyone. and the modern architecture to speak for would do better than a souvenir store, and developer, and Lehman Brothers. The ven- It’s a major component to the 150 million- themselves, while the exterior store if you have strong Asian populations trav- ture designed, built and continues to oper- square-foot, $1.4 billion Terminal 4 [for- design is generally uniform. eling through your environment, sales per ate Terminal 4. The Port Authority of New merly known as International Arrivals], There’s also Swarovski, H. Stern, The enplanement will be significantly higher. York and New Jersey is the landlord. which is the cornerstone of a $10.3 billion Metropolitan Museum of Art Store, and They’re still the world’s biggest spenders.” The massive Terminal 4 and its retail revitalization of the airport. several “wall huggers” or 100- to 200- With retail on a roll at Terminal 4, more environment was constructed without any While hardly another Madison Avenue, square-foot nooks selling such brands as shops on the concourse will be added. “We discontinuation of the usual flight opera- The Shops at Terminal 4 is a stratospher- Tie Rack and Fossil. don’t know precisely what stores will be tions. “It was like performing surgery on a ic departure from the usual array of mun- A unique concept is a series of 12 spe- included. We are doing a space analysis,” marathon runner while he’s running,” dane convenience and souvenir shops cialty stores under the Runway banner, said Fish. “We are also developing the said Maca. About 50 airlines representing that most domestic airports serve up. including Runway Delight for gourmet Arrival Hall for shops,” more in the vein of 40 countries utilize the terminal. It’s also more in the spirit of conven- food; Runway Toys; Runway Beauty for convenience-type stores, she added. Asked about the performance of the tional downtown retailing. For example, cosmetics; Runway Voyager for leather JFK IAT is a private joint-venture com- stores, Maca said, “They had a great year. price promotions and special events, even goods and luggage, and Runway Fashion, pany, based at JFK, between Schiphol They’re feeling a snap back from 9/11. All possibly more fashion shows in an effort selling top brands including Guess, Airport in Amsterdam; LCOR, a real estate retailers enjoyed a nice uplift.” WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2004 25 WWW.WWD.COM VF Elevates Execs Intercos Inaugurates New Factory NEW YORK — VF Corp. made several executive changes Thursday in its fast-growing outdoor division, including the pro- DOVERA, Italy — Cosmetics manufacturing said he had no plans for creating fragrances. motion of Mike Corvino to president of JanSport, replacing Goliath Intercos SpA inaugurated a new factory in “There’s no innovation in putting a lid on a Michael Cisler, who has left the company. Italy last week — complete with a priest, a mayor perfume bottle,” Ferrari quipped during a tour of VF’s outdoor brands are: The North Face, Vans, JanSport, and key players from Italy’s beauty industry. the new factory. Eastpak, Kipling and Napapijri. Some of the management shifts The 322,900-square-foot plant, located in Dovera, Intercos has targeted revenues of 175 million are connected with the relocation next year of the equipment di- north of Milan, is equipped to pro- euros, or $232.3 million at current vision of JanSport to San Leandro, Calif., the headquarters of The duce pressed powders and lip- exchange, for 2005, ahead of a North Face, from Appleton, Wis., said a company spokeswoman. sticks and employs 350 workers. turnover of 160 million euros, or Corvino, 44, was vice president of sales and merchandising at In a speech after a Catholic BEAUTY BEAT $212.4 million, projected for 2004. VF Imagewear. He will be based in San Leandro, and report to priest blessed the new factory, Intercos’ new factory has the Mike Egeck, president of VF Outdoor, Americas. Intercos president Dario Ferrari Dario capacity for producing 160 mil- Todd Yates, 40, was named JanSport vice president of re- said the ribbon-cutting at Dovera Ferrari lion pieces a year, which, Ferrari search, design and development and marketing, reporting to was a moment he had long hopes, will aid the company to in- Corvino. Yates had been vice president of marketing and busi- dreamed about. crease its bulk capacity in Italy. ness development for The North Face. And Paula Kosmatka, 50, “The past 30 years of hard work He said the factory was not at full was promoted to design director of JanSport apparel and equip- has allowed me to achieve the re- capacity. Undeveloped space, ment, reporting to Yates. She was merchandising and design di- sult of this new factory,” Ferrari Ferrari noted, has been left for rector for The North Face’s new business development. said at the event, “and it really is a the possible production and de- At Vans, Bill Bettencourt, 41, was named vice president of milestone for Intercos.” velopment of hair and skin care footwear and equipment, replacing Steve Murray, who was pro- Dovera’s mayor also praised products. moted to president of Vans in July. Bettencourt, who reports to the company’s new factory, which The company’s home factory Murray, has held a variety of executive posts at Reebok and was is located close to Italian per- in Agrate, Italy, will remain the president of Arena North America, the U.S. distributor for Arena fume giant ITF-ICR. Executives innovative leader, he said, for the swimwear. Terri Miller, 48, was promoted to vice president of ap- from Italy’s cosmetics associa- other Intercos factories based in parel, a new post. She had been senior director of Vans retail tion, Unipro, and from several the U.S., Malaysia and China. merchandise and planning, and she also reports to Murray. Italian beauty companies attend- Ferrari said since opening an In addition, Michael Schulam, 38, was named category direc- ed the ceremony. Intercos plant in China in January, tor for snow and outerwear apparel, also a new post. He formerly Also present at the factory’s the company had made excellent held executive posts at Napapijri and The North Face. Deborah opening was Madina Ferrari, progress, maintaining made-in- Dyson, 39, joined Vans’ apparel division as director of develop- wife of Dario Ferrari and creator Italy product with 80 percent of ment and quality assurance. of her namesake cosmetics line, costing coming from China. Mike Boyle, 44, joined VF Outdoor as vice president and gen- Madina Milano. Ferrari said she Intercos production is divided eral manager of Napapijri Americas. VF acquired the Italian out- was looking forward to returning up in the following manner: 40 door sportswear company in June when it purchased parent com- to the U.S. in December to over- percent for the mass market, 36 pany Green Sport Monte Bianco SpA. Boyle was vice president of see further developments on an percent for the prestige market, sales at Victorinox/Swiss Army apparel. He also reports to Egeck. in-store collaboration with her 17 percent for direct sales and 7 The outdoor group is one of VF’s fastest-growing divisions and brand and Victoria’s Secret. percent for speciality stores. continues to be an area where VF makes acquisitions. In the In a press conference before the ceremony, Dario The firm produces cosmetics for 57 compa- quarter ended Oct. 22, this segment contributed $457.1 million to Ferrari outlined the company plan to double sales nies. The U.S. is Intercos’ biggest market — 45 sales, a 116 percent gain compared with the year-ago period. in the next five years, to start producing skin care percent of total product is created for American — Melanie Kletter and hair care and to develop a very strong Asian cosmetics brands. presence — especially in China. However, Ferrari — Stephanie Epiro Hawaiian Designer Enclave Gets New Owners By David Moin A restaurant and retailers selling upscale-wedding- related gifts and products might also be added because NEW YORK — A top luxury retail property in Hawaii, Honolulu is a popular wedding and honeymoon spot. called 2100 Kalakaua Avenue, has new owners that Gucci and Chanel each have flagships exceeding 18,000 want to pump up the shopping center’s already power- square feet and with 25-year leases. ful sales numbers. The two-year-old center is in the heart of Honolulu’s Lehman Bros. sold the 111,000-square-foot, three- Waikiki retail and hotel district, near the Hawaiian level designer shop complex, housing Chanel, Gucci, Convention Center and about four miles from the giant Tiffany, Coach, Yves Saint Laurent, Boucheron and Ala Moana mall, which has several of the same tenants. Tods for $156 million to Metropole Realty Advisors and “To my knowledge, there has been no cannibalization of Heller Properties. sales,” Siegel said. “Together, we will be marketing the property to maxi- Aside from the high rate of sales, the center is dis- mize its luxury experience and replicate the ambience of tinguished by its architecture. The tenants all have 2100 Kalakaua Avenue Madison Avenue or Faubourg St. Honore,” said Robert three levels and individual exterior and interior de- and Madison Avenues, Chicago’s Michigan Avenue, San Siegel, chief executive officer and principal of Metropole, signs creating an appearance of independent build- Francisco’s Union Square and Boston’s Newbury Street, a development and investment group based here. ings, and an understated, elegant streetscape. The among others.” He said 2100 Kalakaua Avenue generates $1,700 to stores also have balconies overlooking the water. “While 2100 Kalakaua Avenue could technically be $1,800 in sales per square foot, but could do four times Metropole and Heller are on a luxury kick, having considered a shopping center, it has the appearance of a that amount based on pre-Sept. 11, 2001, volumes at lux- acquired 325-329 North Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills Madison Avenue street of independent townhouse bou- ury stores in the area. He also said volumes will be lift- last spring. tiques,” said Mathias Guerrand-Hermes, an investment ed considering there is about 20,000 square feet of va- “Waikiki is in a club of limited luxury retail destina- adviser and an officer of Metropole. He added that there cant space, providing room for another two luxury tions ideally suited to our portfolio,” said Melvin Heller, are 35,000 hotel rooms in the Waikiki district that turn stores, and that the property will be marketed more in- ceo and principal of Heller Properties. “We continue to over about every four days, generating an influx of 70,000 tensively, particularly to international tourists. be interested in further acquisitions on New York’s Fifth new shoppers at least once per week.

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Associate TECHNICAL DESIGNERS Designer Small highly respected Office Asst./Receptionist CKU, a Division of Warnaco Inc. women’s contemporary de- Intimate Apparel Co. seeks well organized, seeks Two Technical Designers for its Men’s & signer line seeks someone energetic person for diversified duties to work on a diffusion label. in day-to-day office operations. Profes- Women’s Technical Design Teams. sional phone manner & computer literate. Candidate must be a detail Knowledge of production a plus. Please The Technical Designer, Men’s is responsible for the coor- oriented, highly organized Fax resume to Barbara at: 212-532-8707 dination and management of the PDM tech pack process and motivated individual from design through production phases. Qualified candi- with a modern sensibility dates must possess 3-5 years of wovens and knits technical and a passion to join a high design experience in addition to experience conducting live end women’s specialty brand. Responsibilities in- and form fittings and communicating fit comments through clude creating presentation technical sketches to respective audiences. Prior experience boards, sketching, preparing working with Web PDM, Micrografx Designer or other trans- tech packs, and fabric and ferable applications is also required. trim research. Excellent com- puter, communication and For Space in Garment Center Candidates for the Technical Designer, Women’s opportunity must possess 3-5 years technical design experience in intimates- follow up skills, as well as Helmsley-Spear, Inc. the ability to handle multiple 212-880-0414 foundations. This position requires experience with pattern tasks required. Must be a making-draping, flat sketching and grading as well as the team player. Some travel is Showrooms & Lofts demonstrated ability to conduct live and form fittings and com- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS required. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail municate fit comments to respective audiences. Experience Fax resume and cover letter ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 working with Web PDM, Micrografx Designer or other trans- to: 646-607-6448 ferable applications is also required. Showroom / Office / Retail We find you space-best deal-no fee Ideal candidates for both positions will possess a 4 yr. degree in sublet 525 7th/ready COO/General Manager Garment Center Real Estate Fashion (Design/Pattern-making preferred), strong basic com- Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 puter skills (e.g. Microsoft Excel, MS Word, etc.), the ability to Alexis Bittar multi-task, and excellent written and verbal communication skills. We are seeking a person with minimum 10 years ex- For confidential consideration, please forward resume perience in management to Cole Haan, a wholly owned subsidiary of Nike, is a global with salary requirements to: join our team. Will be re- lifestyle and fashion company that creates emotionally sponsible for all aspects of enticing brands and products for women and men. fax: 212-287-8752 email: [email protected] company from retail, whole- sale sales to production. Director of Staffing and Recruitment Fast paced environment This position will be based in our NYC office and will report with great growth potential. to the chief HR officer. We are looking for a hands-on staff- Regional Manager, Visual Manager We are offering an excel- ing leader who has the proven ability to implement recruiting lent compensation package. processes and a talent acquisition mindset in others, while As a member of the Marketing Team, the Regional Manager Please email resume to working on critical openings. Ability to transform managers will be responsible for the visual merchandising presentation [email protected] into great recruiters, ability to source/screen/close candidates, in The North Face Retail Stores and wholesale accounts. or fax 718 422 7584 and an ability to implement the right staffing processes without over-burdening others is key. Candidate must possess excellent communication and leader- Designer to $90K. Current exp. in better to ship skills with the ability to train and develop a new visual bridge contemporary cut & sewn tops. Fashion vision similar to Theory, Vince, Three Dot, etc The successful candidate will have a BS/BA plus 7-10+ years in merchandising team. Must have 4 year degree and 7 years Strong knowledge of cut & sewn fabrics devel. HR, with heavy recruiting/staffing experience required. experience in visual merchandising and management. Import co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. A Master’s degree is preferred. Graphic Artist Please send resume, indicating position in the subject line to: Creative Graphic Artist Please send detailed resume (MS Word) to: E-mail: [email protected] Leeward International Inc., seeks creative [email protected] graphic artist with ability to draw & be proficient in Photoshop & Illustrator. Excellent total compensation and benefits package offered. or fax resume/cover letter to: (510) 618.3531 E-mail resume to: [email protected] 78 Green Street - SOHO Please visit colehaan.com for information about Cole Haan products. 2,000 sq. ft. + 1,800 sq. ft. bsmt An Equal Opportunity Employer. or Fax: 212-869-3938 Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 EOE www.dumann.com GRAPHIC DESIGNER Designer $100 to $125K. Current exp. in better Designer Immed Accessory/gift co. for home decor/gift Admin. Asst. / Sales Asst. CAD ARTIST/Designer Women’s Woven casual Sprtswr to do line for $$ Name It $$ &junior novelty lines. Exp w/ fashion/ Intimate apparel company seeks highly moderate Sprtswr for JC Penny price point Accessories textile design Illustrator & Photoshop Seeking Full Time Administrative Asst./ req’d. Salary comm. w/ exp. Sales Assistant for high end Madison creative cad designer/artist for print market niche. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. [email protected] and garment design. Looking for Email: [email protected] Ave. boutique. Sal: 30-35K. Please Fax Designer $125-$150K. Current exp. in designer Designer Immed resume to: 212-249-5703 someone with current, unique con- cepts and styles. Must have garment collection hi-end cashmere full-fashion sweat- Womens Graphic Illustrator - Young Men’s design ability and strong experience in ers. European flair. Must hang w/ Gucci, Prada, $55,000 Apparel Staffing, Ltd. the sample room. Skills: Mac or PC, Marc Jacobs.Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. [email protected] Graphic Designer - Juniors Showrooms - 5th Ave + Madison CAD MGR-Sportswear-Reloc, Upper NYS Excellent Photoshop and Illustrator, Lofts - 32-40th Wood Fl. + Light Designer $70-80K. Current exp. in girls 4-16 jr. Well est’d. San Diego based co. is looking Designer-Missy Knits + Sweaters color separations, colorways. Experience driven knits & woven sportswear requ’d 40% DESIGNER to fill 2 Graphics positions. We’re seeking Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Plant MGR-Activewear MFR. Reloc. NYS working with plaids, stripes, florals. denim. Mac, Illustrator, Photoshop. Import pro- Jonden, 1411 Bway. 3-5 Yrs exp, knit aGraphic Illustrator with Young Men’s Prod. Assoc. -Knit Sptswr MFR 2+ years experience as CAD artist / de- duction packages from design inception. novelty house seeks individual with specialty and a Graphic Designer w/Jr. Trim Room Superv-Sptswr. Reloc.NYS signer for textiles /apparel requested. Screen printing, embroidery graphic artwork. import & domestic exp to develop casual knit specialty and 3-5 years exp. Techn Dsgn Assoc - C.N.S. Knits Please email resume: Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy. & career lines. Fax: 212-730-1742 OR E-mail: [email protected] Will work on a variety of projects from Techn Dsgn Assoc - Childrenswear Exp [email protected] licensed product to private label devel- Techn Dsgn Mgr - Woven Bottom Wgts Designer DESIGNERS/Handbags/$50-80K opment. Candidates must be able to other listings @www.apparelstaffing.com sketch, do layout work on MAC, and Or Fax Resume To: (212) 302-1161 Boy’s Associate Designer This mjr. accessory co. has exciting Major apparel company seeks associate new opportunities for handbag design- know Adobe Illustrator/Photoshop. Also, (We offer a cash sign on bonus be a team player, able to work in a fast for job acceptance) designer with experience in newborn, ers w/ either Ladies or Junior accessory Children’s Sweater infant/toddler. Responsibilities include backgrounds. REQ: creative design skills, paced environment; organized, detail Associate Designer designing boy’s line, creating artwork trend forecast, strong Illust/Photoshop oriented, motivated, and reliable. Design Assistant and working with sample room. Must skills, w/3+ yrs related accessory expr. Qualified candidates please Fax resume Movie Star Inc., seeks a creative be proficient with MAC and have E-mail resume: & salary requirements to: 858-558-5273 Assoc. Designer with a min. of 2 yrs. Leading childrenswear company is seeking a highly motivated Sweater strong Photoshop/Illustrator skills. [email protected] exp. for our knit sleepwear division. Fax resume 212-239-2766. (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 Candidate will work closely w/ designer Design Assistant with a minimum of 3 Manager/Business Development PATTERN/SAMPLES years experience in the apparel indus- &beresponsible for design tech packs, Designer Designer Seeking N.Y., L.A., & Chicago based indi- Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast trim research, overseeing sample maker, try. This candidate will assist the Se- viduals w/sales & management experience work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 etc. Also, must be a self starter that is nior Designer and will be responsible Sleepwear/Loungewear manufacturer seeks a hip multifaceted designer capable to help develop our men’s fashion & organized and very good with details. for executing designs for customer pre- furniture retail/wholesale business. Fax resume with salary to: sentations and packages for garment of designing intimate apparel for all Design (212) 798-4935 production. This individual should levels of retail. Must have experience PATTERNS, SAMPLES, have experience in all phases of line working with sample room and have PRODUCTIONS development with an understanding of contemporary taste level. Strong exp. a must! BUSINESS ANALYST IT Please email resumes: All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Large retailer needs a liaison in IT to color, fabric and trim details. The can- Exciting Opportunity!!! E-mail resume to: [email protected] Call Sherry 212-719-0622. didate must be organized, detail orient- [email protected] all other depts. Requires 5-7 yrs. exp. Available for handbag designer with MARKETING & MERCHANDISING &proficiency in JD Edwards, Arthur, ed and familiar with line development timelines. Primavision software knowl- min of 2+ years exp. Individual must COORDINATOR PDM, Data WH, Island Pacific or other be familiar with Junior market & profi- DESIGNERS edge preferred. Working knowledge of NYC Woman’s & Children’s Intimate Leader in Men’s Accessories seeks PATTERNS, SAMPLES, similar systems. Great environment & cient in Photo/Illust. Hand sketching a organized self-starter to work in a fast- full benefits. $75-$95K. Fax resume to Illustrator required. Apparel co. seeks designers for 3 Please e-mail your resume to plus. Salary commensurate with exp. paced environment. This diversified PRODUCTIONS Laurie: 201-894-1186 or email: Email resume to [email protected] positions. 5 yrs CAD experience a must. Full servcie shop to the trade. Fine [email protected] or fax to (212) 643- 2826. U4ia, Primavision and Kaledo experi- position will report to the Director of [email protected] or fax: 212-268-9861 Marketing & Merchandising and fast work. 212-869-2699. KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Please no telephone calls. EOE ence a plus. Comp $50-65K w/ excellent benefits. Fax resume: 212-447-7667 support the brand management of Customer Service/Data Entry several accessory lines. Responsibili- PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Buyer ties will include supporting marketing, ASSOCIATE APPAREL/ Alexis Bittar Designer DESIGNER merchandising and sales efforts, pack- High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Rapidly expanding costume jewelry Head Accessory Designer The Isfel Co. seeks a creative, experienced aging and fixture development, and sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 co. seeks organized and motivated individ- &highlymotivated 7-16 trendy fashion advertising and public relations ACCESSORY BUYER ual to join our team. Must be able to Boys, Girls or Jr. accessory exp. Must be Do you have an entrepreneurial spirit? a self-starter & proficient in Photoshop / separates designer (not merchandiser) programs. Candidate should have work in fast paced office and have ex- for the mid-tier and mass merchant strong communications skills and ex- Do you thrive on success? Soft cellent communication and computer Illustrator. Comm w/overseas factories. Surroundings Catalog is looking for an $80-$90K. Fax resume to market. Candidate is required to perience with Photoshop or Microsoft skills. We offer excellent salary with demonstrate knowledge of current Photo Editor, Excel and Word. Fax Associate Apparel/Accessory Buyer healthcare benefits. Laurie: 201-894-1186 or email: with 2+ years catalog buying experience [email protected] trends and ability to implement them resume and salary requirements to: Email resume to [email protected] in 7-16. Photosohp/Illustrator a must. DP at 212-370-1039 or and an eye for good design. Market or fax to 718 422 7584 KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS exposure a necessity. College degree Please fax resume 212-465-1085 e-mail [email protected] Acquisition Wanted! in Fashion a plus! We’re St. Louis Merchandiser/ Design Director to $120K. Cur- Accessory company looking to acquire based and travel the world. You’ll be Designer $100-125K. Current exp. in con- Designer Immed rent exp. in better to bridge market required. small handbag company. Looking to joining one of the hottest teams in the temporary womens denim bottoms. Strong Childrens Designer to $80K. Must hang w/ DKNY, Ann Kline, Jones Signa- purchase a successful company that business and growing with us! E-mail: exp. in product development of washes, Grow This Label Current exp. in missy, denim bottoms. ture, Sigrid Olsen, etc. Strong product devel needs capital to grow. [email protected] or fax (314) fabrics, etc. Must hang w/ Diesel, Levis, $80,000 Well-known branded midtown exp. Update line. Liason between dept. store Principals only fax us at 212-563-0204 524-6524. www.softsurroundings.com etc. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral FashionAgcy. [email protected] company.Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy buyers and sales vp. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. WWD, MONDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2004 27 Obituaries WWW.WWD.COM Fashion Industry Editor Jody Jacobs, 82 Levinson International By Rose Apodaca the right frame of mind to report on a story,” Sylvia EVP Mark Gootnick, 56 Sheppard, Jacobs’ former editor at WWD in L.A., recalled LOS ANGELES — Jody Jacobs, a former Women’s Wear Daily Friday. She hired Jacobs away from the California Apparel NEW YORK — Mark Gootnick, execu- West Coast fashion editor and society editor of The Los News; later, when Sheppard left in the mid-Sixties, Jacobs tive vice president at Levinson Angeles Times, died Dec. 2 of congestive heart failure at her would assume her title as West Coast fashion editor of WWD. International, an off-price jobbing home in Atascadero, Calif., according to her husband, “The morning she was going to interview Barbra Streisand, firm here, died Sunday at the Robert Bernard Leason. She was 82. a major story because it was Streisand’s first big performance Wood Johnson University Hospital in Jacobs was best known and revered for her tenure at the in L.A., Jody went on a long walk on the beach to focus her New Brunswick, N.J. He was 56. the L.A. Times between 1971 and 1985, an era when the thoughts. She always prepared well for her interviews. Of The cause of death was pancreatic sprawl of L.A. was beginning to undergo changes socially, cul- course, she did a marvelous job on the story. Everybody loved and liver cancer, according to Harry turally and politically. Through her columns, she navigated a Jody and loved the way she wrote,” Sheppard said. Levinson, owner of Levinson Intern- bustling scene of black-tie galas and champagne lunches in- Jacobs majored in journalism at Hunter College in New ational. habited by the city’s new social set, along with Hollywood York City. She had relocated there with her family at age six Gootnick had been with the compa- royalty such as Cary Grant and Ann Miller; the city’s first from her native Margarita, Venezuela, where she was born ny for 13 years and was active in the black mayor, Tom Bradley, and his wife, Ethel, and the Josephine Caceres in 1922. industry, serving as a board member Reagans en route to the White House. In 1988, Jacobs wrote “The Right Circles,” a novel pub- of the Off-Price Specialist Show. He Before the Times, Jacobs reported on fashion and society lished about a young woman and her not-always-pleasant ad- began his career in sales at Star Light — including celebrity — for WWD. She started at the paper in ventures on the social scene. Trading, an importing company no 1957 in L.A. reporting on sportswear, then worked for it in the After her marriage ended to Russell Lee Jacobs, she wed longer in business. New York headquarters and the London bureau as associate Leason in 1972. She is survived by him; her daughter with Jacobs, Gootnick is survived by his wife, fashion editor. Lady Bird Johnson, Sir Ralph Richardson, Jessica Salet; three grandchildren, and one great-grandchild. Susan; a daughter, Cindy Hollender; Vanessa Redgrave and Faye Dunaway were among the per- Contributions in Jacobs’ name can be made to the Braille a twin brother, Steve, and two sis- sonalities she profiled for WWD. Institute of America, Development Department, 741 North ters, Adriene Goldstein and Reesa “I remember Jody always worked really hard to get into Vermont Avenue, Los Angeles, Calif., 90029. Harris.

Product Manager $70-$80K. Current exp. in intimates, bra, or lingerie preferred. Technical Designer Sales - Better Follow-up on calendar, scheduling, liaison TEMPORARY w/Hong Kong, design, sales. Send out cost Activewear mfr. seeks temporary (approx. Contemporary Knitwear packages, sample requests, color appro- 4wks)Technical Designer with extensive Leading Knitwear & Sportswear Designer vals. Exp. dealing w/ Sears & Penny in exp. in wovens for Private Label accts. seeks an outstanding Salesperson with prodct devl. reqrd. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. Strong knowledge of specs, grading, fit- 3-5 years experience in better women’s tings and patternmaking. Wal-Mart, Kohl’s, contemporary market for its N.Y. Show- Target exp. necessary. Must be very SHOWROOM SALES room. Current following with Neiman’s, Product Mgr. to $60K detail oriented, organized with strong Sak’s, and Specialty Stores req’d. Salary, 2-5 yrs. apparel or home exp. communication skills. Able to follow-up Stuart Weitzman is creating a new commission & incentives commensurate Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 with overseas offices. Basic computer position to handle Showroom w/experience. Please Fax or E-mail all [email protected] skills a must. Salary commensurate with resumes (with salary requirements) to: exp. Fax resume to: (212) 279-8720 Sales & Regional Fairs as well as 415-864-5335 / [email protected] be the Interface between Sales & RECEPTIONIST Production. The person will have Major apparel company seeks well Technical Immed strong administrative skills and a SALES MANAGER/90-100k organized individual to manage the Immediate Handbags/MASS MARKET front desk and day to day adminis- $50,000 minimum of 2 years selling experi- This well estab. Handbag import co. trative duties. Must have excellent [email protected] ence. Please Fax or E-mail resumes: seeks a sales pro w/ expr. selling hand- phone manner and desk appearance. 212-582-6388 bags to MASS MARKET/Chain Stores. Fax resume to 212-239-2766 Must be a closer. E-mail Resume: [email protected] [email protected] (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel)212-481-1941 SALES EXECUTIVE Women’s sportswear co. seeks an KENNETH COLE aggressive sales pro w/ established Men’s Outerwear West Coast Sales Position relationships with bridge dept & KEY ACCOUNT SALES specialty stores. Min. 5 yrs exp and Seeking exp’d., motivated Sales Profes- Cuddl Duds computer skills req’d. Email resume to sional to join our team. Candidates Nationally recognized intimate apparel [email protected] or fax 212-695-9483 should have a minimum of 5 years expe- brand seeks to replace retiring sales rience in Better Men’s Outerwear, possess person. Buying or department store strong working relationships with major sales exp required. Prefer Southern Merchandiser to $65K. Korean/English Sales Support to $50K and specialty retailers nationwide, have California resident. All responses will reqr’d. North N.J. devel. assortments, pro- Work w/ 4-5 in house Account Execs. aworkingknowledge of retail math be kept confidential. Salary, benefits Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 and an understanding of merchandise and expenses. Fax resume to: duction calendar, liaison w/ design + sales. [email protected] Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency. Production Associate Accessories/Bath/Cosmetics plans. Excellent presentation and follow- 212-447-5219, Attn: Mark Sandler Intimate Apparel firm located in Looking for sales person with strong up skills a must. To be considered for following. Good opportunity. this outstanding opportunity, please Fax Mid-town Manhattan seeks experi- Senior Designer $100-125K. Current exp. Order Entry/EDI Person enced production associate skilled in Email resumes to: [email protected] resume to: 212-403-0551 Must be organized, detail oriented with in contemporary better woven women’s Kenneth Cole Outerwear Microsoft office applications, ordering sprtswr. Must hang w/ BCBG, Theory, good PC skills and very good knowledge replenishment stock and purchase A division of G-III Apparel Group, Ltd. of EDI. Please Fax or E-mail resume to DKNY City, Laundry Etc. From inception order processing. Excellent communi- to completion. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. Div. Head/key account. Sales $180 +++ EDI Coordinator at: 212-594-7234 cation required, ability to work w/ [email protected] Current exp. in women’s outerwear & coats w/ customer and vendors. Excellent comp strong relationships w/ stores reqrd. Growing and benefits package. Fax resume to: multi div. Co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. (212) 685-3534 Spech Tech to $60K. Current exp. in PATTERNMAKER kids knits & wovens. Specing. Making Paper Magic, a leading seasonal consumer comments on fits. Issue for size grad- products company, seeks a 1st thru prod’n. PRODUCTION ASST ing. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agency Patternmaker to join their Halloween Wanted for thriving, high end men’s Newport Beach, CA design team in Manhattan. Duties will Sportswear Company based in Soho Fabric Sales Wearelooking for Designated Sales include generating new patterns, spec New York. Minimum 2 years experience Fabric Importer seeks Sales Reps. Only Associates and Selling Specialists for sheets, assembling tech packs, grading, in handling garment production duties: Spec/Tech Designer those with active accounts/store connec- Fine Apparel vendors. A candidate and overseeing sample construction. domestic & international communications tions need apply. Fax to: 212-719-9117 should be a good motivator, a highly Independent Reps Wtd. Experience on Gerber system req’d. Ideal with affiliates; organization of purchase $40 - 45,000 productive sales associate, creative, organized and goal oriented. Dynamic, fashion-forward, Pilates/yoga candidate will have strong Private Label orders, fabric buys, line projections, Large, very well established designer of accessories company seeks reps for exp. Knowledge of costumes helpful. garment costing, invoicing and main- childrens/mens Team outerwear is look- Please fax your resume: (949) 467-3348 or call (949) 467-3310 high-end boutiques, specialty stores & Paper Magic offers a highly competitive taining production calendars. Must be ing for a spec tech with 3-5 years experi- JOUJOU JEANS spas. Selective distribution. Please salary & benefits package. Please send proficient in excel and entourage and ence; knowledge of knits and woven’s; A leader in the denim world ! send resume to: or outerwear helpful; childrenswear prefer- [email protected] resume/cover letter to Lane Fragomeli at: have strong organizational skills. Weare currently seeking a dynamic PRIVATE LABEL SALES Cell: (609) 707-5850 Please fax resume to: red. Wal-Mart and Target experience sales executive for our Kids division. Private label ladies sportswear co. seeks a Paper Magic Group, Inc. (212)-274-8997 very strongly preferred; sizes 0-Mens. Rewarding compensation package for team player who can initiate and follow 1107 B’way, Suite 1414, N.Y., NY 10001 Great company with excellent benefits. the right individual. through on programs from concept to E-mail: [email protected] Production Coordinator Call Ms. Scott at 212-878-2000 Fax resume to JG at: delivery. 5 years sales/product develop- Visit us at: www.PaperMagic.com fax: 212-949-3928 or email: 212-819-9156 ment experience with good merchandising EOE Large childrenswear company has posi- [email protected] tion available to follow up w/ Wal-Mart, skills and established contacts preferred. Product Development to $70K Target, JCP accts and overseas Fax resume: (212) 947-4609 Missy contemp, good eye for trends/color factories. Must be familiar with CTL JR SALES MANAGER-Women’s Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 approval procedures. Bilingual in SWEATER DESIGNER Bobby Jones, a name synonymous [email protected] Chinese/English preferred. 2-3 yrs exp. HIP contemporary Women’s Sportswear with superior quality golf and sports- Fax: (212) 967-8631 att: Rose Company seeks designer with 4 years wear has an exceptional opportunity Production Assistants Production Immed import experience. Must have technical available for a highly motivated Richard Leeds International Great Firm knowledge of yarns and swearter candidate to join our NYC team in our Rapidly growing, fast paced sleepwear $40,000 construction. Please fax resume to: expanding Women’s line. A min of 3-5 /daywear mfr seeks assistants with [email protected] Attention Chris: 212-302-5763 yrs exp in women’s wear sales & mktg min 2 yrs prod exp to handle produc- is required. Enhance your career w/ tion related functions. Must be bright, Production Import Assist to $50K. Current our prestigious organization and Outstanding Leader w/strong accessory organized and work well under pres- exp. in factory liaison from inception to Tech Designer to $35K. Korean/English receive an excellent salary & benefit background is looking for opportunity sure. Garment industry exp a plus. completion. Quotas, P.O.’s, ticketing, con- reqr’d. North N.J. Min. 0-2 yrs. exp. ok. package. Pls submit resume: w/financially solid company that wants Word & Excel a must! Resume: struction of garments, fabrics, excel, word. Spec packages. Illustrator. Excel. Call [email protected] or serious growth; Well connected w/majors. [email protected]/fax 212-696-8450. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency. 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency. fax: 585-467-1315 Call: 856-261-6486