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ISSN: 2641-192X DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.08.000689 Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology

Review Article Copyright © All rights are reserved by Alka Madhukar Thakker Biologically -Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant

Alka Madhukar Thakker* and Danmei Sun School of Textiles and Design, Heriot-Watt University, UK

*Corresponding author: Alka Madhukar Thakker, School of Textiles and Design, He- Received Date: March 29, 2021 riot-Watt University, TD1 3HF, UK. Published Date: June 01, 2021

Abstract

The fossil-based emissions and effluents from the textile wet processing units have acute implications on the environment and human wellbeing. Therefore, a paradigm shift towards sustainable alternative materials and technology has become imperative. Thus, the overview herein emphasizes the sustainable chemistry that ubiquitously exists to propel ecological textile processing with herbal biomaterials. The review paper succinctly accentuates the efficient qualities of bioactive plant pigments for functional textiles. The paper also outlines the sustainable method of processing economywith plant are phytochemicals. detailed. The eco-friendly herbal materials as an excellent example of Biomimicry is presented. Likewise, the multi-disciplinary research approach is discussed herein to refute global dilemmas and impel holistic ecological outcomes. The circular materials for the circular Keywords:

Sustainable chemistry; Bioactive pigments; Herbal colors; Functional fabrics; Sustainable textiles Introduction

Figure 1: The dilemma of Citarum river, Indonesia, colored due to toxic synthetic effluents discharged from the surrounding textile wet processing units [4].

This work is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. Page 1 of 25 Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Greenpeace international initiated Detox My Fashion campaign (PFCs), and phthalates. The list of restricted carcinogenic in 2011 to ensure that the clothing was free from hazardous namely azo, disperse etcetera, and anti-microbials namely chemicals from make to finish [1]. For example, their research triclosan etcetera are detailed in the ZDHC M-RSL [3]. This impels findings on the Citarum river contamination refer to Figure 1. the research and development of alternative biodegradable and dyes of 0,005 mg/l and heavy metals from textile mills resulting substrates for coloration and functionality namely anti-microbial, concluded it to be loaded with chromium and -containing renewable sources of natural materials for the application of textile

(Figure 1). in low levels of dissolved oxygen (DO) in the water of 2.45 mg/l. analgesic, antioxidant etcetera, hence the instigated review paper The minimum required DO is 4 mg/l to sustain aquatic life. It took a heavy toll on aquatic life with 60% of fish dead also Several authors have taken a unique approach towards affecting surrounding flora and fauna [2]. They further launched sustainability in textiles however the overview herein focuses on Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) wherein they sustainability in textiles. plant-based renewable and biodegradable points of sources for predominantly accentuate implementing eco-smart process and Ecological Processing of Plant ’s safe Chemicals in textile processing units. ZDHC formulated a Manufacturing Restricted Substances List, or M-RSL, which appeal to mandatorily eliminate 11 priority hazardous chemical groups For consequences, it is crucial to adopt processing tools The current sustainability challenges faced by the textile industry refer to https://mrsl.roadmaptozero.com/MRSL2_0. It prohibits and techniques that would be low on water and energy demand. the use of heavy metals namely chromium, copper etcetera also

Tablealkylphenol 1: Sustainability ethoxylates challenges (APEs), confrontedper- and polyfluorinated by the textile industry chemicals [5]. are summarized in Table 1. Stages Best practices to implement

Scouring Fiber/fabric processing Minimum steps, reuse, recycle, reduce consumption of resources.

Utilize Plant-based materials, combine the steps, and lower the effluent pollution index Desizing

BleachingDyeing Plant-based natural dyes and dye assistants, simplify synthetic with the right pH, auxiliary, enzymes and reduce the effluent quantity and toxicity. Printing Formaldehyde-free, ureaNon-metallic, free, non-volatile non-ionic, water-based biodegradable. , thickeners, and solvents. Pre- and post-treatment treatments Surface modification’s and Mechanical, nontoxic, simple. Techniques that save energy and water usage.

The overview particularly centers on renewable plant-based anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory functionality are very sensitive natural materials therefore elaborates on the sustainable procedure to heat treatment and are expended on boiling. The temperature for suitable application of herbs on textile substrates. There is of the water of 30 to 60 ℃ is most advantageous for maintaining a growing body of literature that recognizes the importance of original color stability and functional phytochemical contents [6-8]. sustainability in textile wet processing units [5]. Subsequently, low temperature and overnight extraction or dyeing were concluded to be conducive for the processing of natural fiber/ Under the sustainability agenda, previous studies make fabrics with natural herbs. a noteworthy revelation, the natural plant phytochemicals responsible for functionality and coloration on a textile substrate In the same vein, reheating, and prolonged heating at a are preserved at low infusion temperatures, low dilution, and in temperature beyond 60 ℃ perishes the phytochemicals for example plain water as a solvent [5-8]. Therefore, greater functional benefits 62% of the phenolic acids would get destroyed in 2 minutes of 100 and original color are achieved with minimal heat concoctions of ℃ heat aka boiling temperature [9]. The process is simple and clean herbal , stems, barks, buds, and flowers. At the same time involving no emissions and effluents. Hence, the ecological devised being low on energy, water, and synthetic solvent demands would process which concurrently adheres to Sustainable developmental impel sustainable results. goals (SDGs) [10]. The method developed propels optimal functionality and original color stability. For example, Figures 2,3, The naturally occurring plant phytochemicals namely catechins, and anthocyanins others contained in cloves, green and 4 elaborates on the surplus raw materials, ecological processing polyphenolic compounds for example quercetin, kaempferol, implemented in research experiments, and likewise the obtained sustainable results depicted in images [8]. tea, mango , kattha others responsible for anti-oxidant,

Citation: Page 2 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Figure 2: Sustainable processing of bamboo, banana, and merino wool with Azadirachta indica (Neem) [8].

Figure 3: Sustainable processing of bamboo, banana, and merino wool with Camellia sinensis (Green tea) [8].

Citation: Page 3 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Figure 4: Sustainable processing of bamboo, banana, and merino wool with Ocimum tenuiflorum (Tulsi) [8] Functionality: Anti-inflammation, anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, kind to skin and environment.

The green chemistry inherently manifested by herbal materials, the functionality of herbs, and color obtained on natural textile sustainable natural plant fibers namely bamboo fibers, banana fibers, and merino wool fibers as cited above have inherently functionality. fibers namely bamboo fibers, banana fibers, and merino wool high compatibility with plant pigments and therefore enhanced Chemicalfibers are shown Structures in Figures of 2,3, Bioactive and 4. It is remarkablePlant Phytochemicals to note that

Figure 5: Betanidin [11].

synthetic chemistry to ecological green chemistry is mandatory for The green chemistry is highlighted herein for ecological benefits toxicity to humans and animals [11]. The chemical modification of all the more the scientific research investigations accomplished on natural colors from indicate no possible health treat or the paradigm shift towards sustainability in the textile industry.

Citation: Page 4 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

The classification of chemical structures of plant phytochemicals refer to Figure 40. is presented in Figures 5 to 84 [12-15]. The most relevant to the Quinone methides, a quinone derivative with a methylene group textile substrate application for coloration and functionality is in place of one of the oxygen atoms. For example, sandalwood specified here. containing santalins A and B [13-14], refer Figures 41 to 44. , a yellow crystalline ketone with chemical Pyrones, either of two isomeric carbonyl compounds C5H4O2 formulaAnthracene C14H8O2 is oftena crystalline derived from tricyclic anthracene. aromatic hydrocarbon derived from pyran. The pyrones are keto derivatives of the pyrans; the commoner isomer, “γ-pyrone”, is a colorless, basic, crystalline with the chemical formula C14H10. For example, Indian mulberry solid, CH=CHOCH=CHCO [13-14]. For example, mangostin refer to Figure 12 to 36. consists of two anthraquinones Soranjidiol and Morindone [13,14], contained in pitch apple [12], refer to Figure 45 to 48.

Benzophenones, a colorless crystalline ketone C13H10O [13], chief coloring matter of garden beets having a chemical formula, , a nitrogen-containing anthocyanin constituting the for example, maclurin contained in jackfruit [12], refer to Figures 49 and 50. and 39. (CH₃) ₃N⁺—CH₂CO₂⁻ [13-14], refer to Figure 5 and Figure 37,38, Alkaloids are any of numerous usually colorless, complex, and bitter organic bases (such as morphine or caffeine) containing Indoles, a heteroaromatic compound with fused benzene and nitrogen and usually oxygen that occur especially in seed plants pyrrole rings; chemical formula: C₈H₇N. it is a crystalline alkaloid and are typically physiologically active [13,14]. For example, Figure 51 to 58. compound that is a decomposition product of proteins containing Cryptolepine contained in gangamau [12], refer to Figure 6 and tryptophan [13-14]. For example, containing Indigotin [12],

Tannins are a yellowish or brownish bitter-tasting organic [12], refer to Figures 7 and 8, also refer to Figures consisting of derivatives of . is any of the various substance present in some , barks, and other plant tissues, 59 to 84.

Catechin is a crystalline compound that is the major soluble astringent complex phenolic substances of plant origin used constituent of . It is a phenol with chemical formula, C₁₅H₁₄O₆ especially in leather and dyeing textiles, manufacturing , bedda nut tree contains , , chebulic, and [13]. It includes epicatechin, gallocatechin, and epigallocatechin. clarifying wine and beer, and in medicine [13,14]. For example, a For example, cutch tree, bush, dye yam, and palm containing catechins [12], refer to Figures 9,10 and 11.

Citation: Page 5 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Thus, massive literature is available on the characterization of of each are detailed as follows (Table 2) (Figures 12-84). plantTable phytochemicals2: Characterization as of tabulated biological above.pigments The from chemical plants [12,16,17]. structures

Anthraquinones In Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflam- Madders, Stiff Marsh Bedstraws Red And Rhamnaceae matory Figure 12

Rubia Tinctorum Roots PseudopurpurinFigure 13 Dyer’s Madder – Red Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Red R. Alpinus, R. Patientia, R. Crispus and Roots Chrysophanol Rhubarbs, Docks, Garden Sorrels, Yellow Dock, And Rhizomes Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Rumex Spp. – Figure 14 - Red Figure 15 Leaves, Aloe-Emodin Aloes, Rhubarbs – Rheum Spp. – Himalayan Rhu Rhizomes, Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Rhein barbs, Buckthorns – Rumex Spp. Morinda Angustifolia, Rhubarbs - Rheum undula- Stems Red Figure 16 tum, Rheum palmatum, Cassia reticulata Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Fran- Red Figure 17, 18 & 19 gula alnus Rheidins A, B, C Rhubarbs - Rheum Spp., Buckthorns – Rhizomes, Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Bark Roots, Red Figure 20 Emodin Rhubarbs, Docks, Evergreen Buckthorns, Pitti, Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Fabaceae (Cassia Spp.) Barks Roots, Rhizomes, Red Figure 21 cordifolia Stems- Physcion Rhubarbs, Docks, Pitti – Ventilago Madraspatana, Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory , Buckthorns Alaternin Rhamnus alaternus Bark Red Figure 22 R. Cathartica L. Bark Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Islandicin V. Calyculata Red Figure 23 Pitti, , Kniphofia Spp. Bark Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory

Citation: Page 6 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Xanthorin Ventilago madraspatana V. Calyculata, Berch- Red emia floribunda - Pitti, Root Bark Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Figure 24 Red Figure 25 Ventinones A and B V. CalyculataPitti Root Bark Red Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory -Anthraquinones In , Rubia peregrina, Morinda citrifo- Calyculatone RootRoots Bark Red Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory lia, Morinda umellata Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Oldenlandia umbellate Roots Red Figure 26 Rubia tinctorum Alizarin Chay – , Dyer’s Madder – Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Rubia tinctorum, R. Cordifolia Roots, Red Figure 27 Woodruff, Indian Mulberry Stems Xanthopurpurin , Bedstraw, Sweet Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Rubiadin Danais fragrans M. Longiflora, Red Figure 28 M. Lucida, Indian Mulberry Bongo – , Ojnologbo – Root Bark Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Oruwo – Shining Karamu – Coprosma lucida - Red Figure 29 Roots Lucidin , Madders, Bed Bark, Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory straws, Indian Mulberry, Relbunium Spp. Damnacanthal Roots, Morinda citrifolia, M. Umbellata Red Figure 30 Stems Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Morinda Roots, Red Figure 31 umbellata Munjistin Madders, Bedstraws, Mengkudu Hutan – Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory RootRoots Bark Stems – Red Figure 32 Rubia Yunnanensis , Soranjidiol Suranji, Oruwo, Coprosma Spp., Indian Mulberry, Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Anthragallol Roots,Bark Madders, Shining Karamu, Indian Mulberry Red Figure 33 Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Roots,Bark Morindone Wood, Indian Mulberry, M. Umbellate, M. Lucida Root Red

Stems Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Figure 34 Barks, Red CopareolatinFigure 35 Coprosma Areolate Bark Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Stems, - Anthraquinols Red Wood Oruwo, Cascara Sagrada, Buckthorn, Rhubarb Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Stems, Morinda lucida Red Wood Oruwal,Figure Oruwalol 36 Oruwo – Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Stems, Red Leaves,Roots Betalains Spp. – Cacti, Amaranth, Beet Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Stems, Red BetanidinFigure 37 Leaves,Roots Beta Vulgaris Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Stems, Red BetaxanthinFigure 38 Leaves,Roots Swiss Chard Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Stems, Red BetacyaninFigure 39 Leaves,Roots Swiss Chard Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant tinctoria – Indigo, Woad – tinctoria, Indoles – Indigotin Water Jasmine, Assam Indigo, Java Indigo, Dyers Anti-Microbial, Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-Fungal, Leaves Blue Figure 40 Wood, Analgesic, Antiproliferative, Anti-Viral Knotweed,Tripterygium Indigo wilfordii Vine,, YanguaMaytenus hetero- Quinone Methides Dark Red - phylla, Sage Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant, Anti-Insect, Rosewood, Stems terial Leaves, Anti-Cancer, Anti-Viral, Anti-Fungal, Anti-Bac

Citation: Page 7 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Coleus ignarius Red Coleone Anti-Septic DracorubinFigure 41 Tree Resin Red Anti-Microbial

Dragons Blood Plant - Dracaena Draco FigureSantalin 42 Wood Red

Red Sandalwood Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Figure 43 Red - Lachnanthes tinctoria Roots Phenalonesrone – Lachnanthofluo Carolina Redroots, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Red Purple Turmeric Root Roots -Curcumin Yellow Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Figure 44 - gostin Orange Red Pyrones – Man Garcinia mangostana – Mangosteen, Pitch Apple Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory Thiarubrines – Roots Figure 45 & 46 Red Anti-Fungal, Ambrosia chamissonis Orange Antioxidant Polyacetylenes Stems Ragweed, , Carrots Leaves, Figure 47 & 48 Wood, Old Fustic, Jackfruit Antioxidant Benzophenones Yellow Twigs Figure 49 - Old Fustic, Jackfruit, Wood, nomaclurin Antioxidant -Maclurin & Cy Figure 50 Purple Mangosteen, Yellow Twigs Alkaloids Mulberry Twigs - Wood, Figure 51 Gangamau, Goldthread, Poppy Family – Papaver Antifungal Nightshades, Amaryllidaceae - Amaryllis Roots Anti-Inflammatory, Analgesics, Antimicrobial, aceae, Ranunculaceae – Buttercups, Solanaceae - Bark, Yellow Fibraurea tinctoria Goldenseal - Hydrastis canadensis Wood, Amur Cork Tree, , Barberries, Figure 52 , Oregon - Antifungal Berberine Coptis chinensis, Tree Turmeric - Berberis Roots Anti-Inflammatory, Analgesics, Antimicrobial, Berberis Aquifolium, aristataBayberry - Berberis Vulgaris, Bark, Yellow Coptis - Wood, - Figure 53 ae - Corydalis yanhusuon C. Turtschaninovii Antifungal Canadine Oregon Grape, Bloodroot, Coptis Spp., Papaverace Roots Anti-Inflammatory, Analgesics, Antimicrobial, Bark, Yellow Wood, - Antifungal Phellodendrine Amur Cork Tree, Japanese Cork Tree – Phelloden Roots Anti-Inflammatory, Analgesics, Antimicrobial, Bark, Yellow Figure 54 dron Spp. Wood, Figure 55 Coptis japonica Antifungal Aporphine Alkaloid Berberis, Mahonia Spp. – Amur Cork Tree, Japanese Roots Anti-Inflammatory, Analgesics, Antimicrobial, Bark, Yellow Cork Tree, - Wood, line Alkaloids - Bisbenzylisoquino Antifungal Figure 56 Berberidaceae, Menispermaceae, Lauraceae, Ra Roots Anti-Inflammatory, Analgesics, Antimicrobial, Bark, Yellow nunculaceae Plant Families - Wood, dine Alkaloids Benzophenanthri Antifungal Figure 57 Roots Anti-Inflammatory, Analgesics, Antimicrobial, Bloodroot Bark, Yellow Indoloquinoline Wood, Alkaloids Cryptolepis sanguinolenta Antifungal Figure 58 Roots Anti-Inflammatory, Analgesics, Antimicrobial, Bark, Yellow Wood, Tannins Sessile , Aleppo Oak, Sticky Alder, Western , Figure 59 Bark, Hemlock, Sicilian , Staghorn, Coronillo, Acorns, Red Leaves, Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Myrobalans, Bakli, Red , Divi-Divi Cutch Galls Tree, Plam,

Citation: Page 8 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Wood, -Gallotannins , Rhus javanica, Cotinus coggygria, , Brown, Figure 60 Smooth Sumac, Fragrant Sumac Bark, Red Aleppo Galls, Sicilian Sumac, Acorns Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Leaves, Caesalpinia spinosa, Wood, Tara Tannin Divi Divi, Tara Brown, Figure 61 Antioxidant Bark, Anti-Inflammatory, Holdback Acorns Black,Red Leaves, Wood,

Walloon Oak Brown, -EllagitanninsFigure 62 Acorns,Bark, Durmast, Sessile Oak, Aleppo Galls, Levant Galls, Black,Red Leaves,Galls Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant

Wood, Brown, Figure 63 Quebracho, Indian Sumac, Cangara, Ngalama, Bark, Acorns Black,Red Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant , Pecans, Walnuts Leaves,

Rhus javanica, , Divi-Divi, Myro- , balan, Indian Almond Brown, Corilagin Leaves, Red Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Figure 64 Pods Terminalia chebula, Chebulic myrobalan, Beleric Fruits Brown, ChebulinicFigure 65 Acid myrobalan Red Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Woodfordia fruticose, Q. Robur, Q. Petraea, Rosa Brown, Figure 66 Rugosa, Walnut Galls Bark, Red Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Wood, - lin Figure 67 & 68 Durmast, Sessile Oak Brown, Vescalin And Casta Sweet – Castanea, – Quercus Spp. – Bark, Red Acorns Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Leaves, Wood,

Vescalagin and Brown, Figure 69 & 70 Bark, Red Chestnuts – Castanea, Oaks – Quercus Spp. Acorns Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Leaves, Wood, Q. Robur, Sessils Oak – Q. Figure 71, 72 & 73 Petraea Brown, Roburins A, B, C, D Pedunculate Oak – Bark, Red Acorns Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Leaves, Wood, Alnusiin , Grey Alder, Oregon Alder Alnus sieboldiana Brown, Bark, Red Acorns Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Leaves, Figure 74 Rind, Punica granatum, Roots, Trunk, Brown, FigurePunicalin 75 Red Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Cangara – Branches Fruits Terminalia chebula Brown, Granatins Figure 76 A, B Red , Pomegranate Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Woodfruticosin

Woodfordia fruticose Brown, Figure 77 Red Dhawai, Bark Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Wood,

Figure 78 Brown, -Proanthocyanidins Grey Alder, Red Alder, Western Hemlock, Tizra, Bark, Red Acorns Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Gambier Bush Leaves, Wood, Flavan Tree, Cyprus turpentine, Sicilian sumac, Brown, Figure 79 Bark, Red Acorns Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Quebracho, Cutch Tree Leaves,

Citation: Page 9 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Gambier – gambir, Western Hemlock, Brown, Red Propelargonidins Leaves Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Gambier Bush, Areca Plam Pinus halepensis Salix viminalis Brown, ProcyanidinsFigure 80 Oaks, – , , Hemlock, Ceriops tagal Red , Willows – , Apple, Mangrove – Barks Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant , California Pepper Tree Wood, Tetramers Brown, Figure 81 Dye Yam, Wattles, Oak, Quebracho, , , Bark, Red Acorns Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Willow, Eucalyptus Leaves, Heart- Wattles – , Quebrachos – schinopsis Brown, ProfisetinidinsFigure 82 wood, Red Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Spp., Babla, Pines, Oaks, , Eucalyptus Pods, Bark Heart- Wattles Brown, Red Prorobinetinidins Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant wood Wood, Western Hemlock, Tengar, Red Mangrove, Acacia Nilotica Brown, Bark, Red Phlobatannins Acorns Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Leaves, Wood,

Brown, PsidiumSweet guajava Chestnuts,, Oaks Bark, Red - Complex Tannins Acorns Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Leaves, Wood, Oaks – Kunigi – Quercus acutissima, Durmast, Q. Stenophylla Brown, Acutissimin A, B Bark, Red Sessile Oak, Urajirogashi – , Chestnuts Acorns Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Leaves, Figure 83 & 84 – Kuri – Castanea Crenata

Anogeissus acuminata Brown, Red Anogeissusins A, B Bark Black, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant

Citation: Page 10 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Citation: Page 11 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Citation: Page 12 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Citation: Page 13 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Citation: Page 14 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Citation: Page 15 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Citation: Page 16 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

The academic literature on the chemical structures of bioactive

factor of cotton fabric treated with green, red, and black tea extracts. components contained in biological pigments is accentuated The results of this investigation show that UPF was excellent for herein. The naturally occurring therapeutic constituents adhere cotton fabrics treated with green and black tea [21]. There remain to the microfibrillar fabric structure and impart healing to the several aspects of sustainability and clinical trials overlooked in wearer [18]. For example, the treatment of cotton fabric with the aforesaid studies. Considering all this evidence a holistic multi- is necessary for global thriveability. neem leaves extract has revealed the anti-microbial efficacy of the disciplinary research approach at international-individual stratum strains of bacteria. The anti-microbial activity is attributed to the treated fabric against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli Functional Applications of Plant-Based Materials on Textiles Substrates presence of the bioactive component azadirachtin (C35H44O16) intrinsically contained in neem leaves [19]. Similarly, previous based biomaterial research studies for functional and ecological research has established a 50:50 combination of wild turmeric Herein the most recent, and innovative examples of plant- and holy basil concoction application on knitted cotton fabrics textiles are detailed. Table 3 classifies various herbal plants and to be effective against bacterial strains. The bioactive component functionality and coloration. being germacrene (C15H22O) and eugenol (C10H12O2) inherently their prospective application on natural textile substrates for present in turmeric and basil, respectively [20]. In the same vein, theTable researcher 3: Application has ofattempted herbs on tofabrics evaluate for coloration the Ultraviolet and functionality Protection [22]. Chemical Pigment Image Colour Medicinal Benefits

Turmeric

Curcumin Yellow Antioxidant, Anti-Septic and Anti-Viral

Golden

Saffron Safranal Gingival Sedative Crocin, Crocetin, Picrocrocin, Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-Depressant, OrangeYellow

Red

Safflower Carthamin Rheumatism, Cytotoxic, Anti-Platelet

Annato Reddish Orange Astringent, Anti-Microbial, Antioxidant Carotenoids –

Bixin, Norbixin

- Red erosclerotic Anthocyanins – , Anti-Carcinogenic, Anti-Viral, Anti-Ath Pomegranate

Tomato Carotenoids – Lycopene, Yellow Antioxidant, Vitamin-A Lutein

Citation: Page 17 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Red Carotenoids - Capsanthin, Paprika Rheumatism, Lumbago, Neuralgia Capsorubin

- Tagetus matism Aromatic, Sores, Ulcers, Eczema, Rheu Lutein Yellow to Orange

- Green terial, Analgesic Aromatic, Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-Bac Lawsone

Anti-microbial fabrics, for a healthy lifestyle, our day to

“In this research, an empirical relationship was established day interaction with textiles demand extra protection from a and demonstrated by a secondary-order polynomial equation 2 microorganism that we encounter in our daily life. For wound based on results obtained. Analysis of variance, ANOVA, showed a bacteria and R2 infection control an eco-smart textile biomaterial was investigated high coefficient of determination value R =98.41 for gram-positive by Kole and colleagues wherein, the cotton fabric was treated with =96.36 for gram-negative bacteria as compared with amongst the selected variables, the squared effect of concentration, nano emulsion of anti-sceptic, and anti-microbial tetrahydroxy standard erythromycin strip. The 3D counter graphs reveal that B. Subtilis Curcumin. Response surface design and regression statistical and gram-negative bacteria E. Coli analysis were performed. The textile material was treated with 0.5 temperature, and time for both gram-positive bacteria % of optimized nano emulsion with nanoparticle size being 100- shows the largest effect on zone 300nm, zeta potential -30.1 to 31.1mV, and medicinal content 80- inhibition, refer to Figure 85 [22]. It was concluded that the response 83.3 % [23]. Cyclodextrin and polycarboxylic acid were employed as surface methodology was the most suitable method to optimize the crosslinking agents applied by the exhaust method and optimized anti-microbial properties and maximize the zone of inhibition”. using the surface response method. The treated fabric was tested The above study performs a clear and valuable statistical analysis negative bacteria. for anti-microbial efficiency against gram-positive and gram- with the latest tools. However, the paper does not mention on undertaken (Figure 86). environmental benefits of the ‘eco-friendly’ approach of research

Figure 85: Gram-positive bacteria (B. Subtilis) and gram-negative bacteria (E. Coli) growth reduction graph [23].

Citation: Page 18 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Figure 86: Red seaweed partly crushed (Above) and Red seaweed extract solution (Below) [24].

Kappaphycus alvarezii and Facial masks, likewise, Janarthanan and Kumar implemented the Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM). The FTIR revealed the Acanthophora spicifera for making the textile mask for anti-aging Red seaweed plant extracts namely presence of bio-active compounds namely, alkaloids, carotenoids, treatment, refer to Figure 86. The antioxidant and anti-aging bio- , terpenoids, , and , refer to Table 4. The antioxidant property evaluated with UV – Spectroscopy active components present in the red seaweeds were identified with increased with an increase in the concentration of red seaweed Fourier Transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). The fibroblast [24]. collagen layers impregnated with red seaweeds were assessed with Table 4: The functional groups present on the red seaweed treated cotton fabric [24]. Bonds Functional groups N-H Amines Aldehydes

O-HC-H CarboxylicKetones acids C-C P-H Phosphines C=C TerpenesAlkanes C-H Sulfonates S=O

The wicking ability, air, and water vapor permeability, of the tightening, anti-sagging, and wrinkle-smoothing properties. The red seaweed treated fabrics, was lower than the untreated fabrics, study suggests its future applications for making wound dressing, refer to Table 5. The in vitro cell morphology of cultured fibroblast surgical gowns, face mask, gauze materials, bandages, and collagen with red seaweed extract with SEM clearly showed that compression garments [24]. However, the above study excludes K. Alvarezii A. Spicifera. Thus, facilitating skin there were high surface smoothness and cell aggregation of 95% anti-microbial investigations as performed in the study which Tablewith 5: Red seaweedand extract70% with antioxidant property on cotton fabric samplescould [24]. further support the functionality theory in research. Concentration (g/ml) DPPH free radical scavenging activity % inhibition 5 x 10-5 29

10 x 10 4552 32 -4 15 x 10 61 33 -4 20 x 10 70 -4 25 x 10 77 3439 -4

Citation: Page 19 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Solar cell activation, moreover, the natural dyes from red

Biosensors, innovatively a universal pH sensor biocomposite amaranth leaves were extracted which yield green color in ethanol has been developed by Devarayan and Suhk from the natural extraction and red- color in distilled water extraction. pigment of red cabbage on nonwoven cellulosic nanofibers. The halochromic changeover is reversible. The biosensor is recyclable, Indicating the presence of and chlorophyll pigments, biosensor detects pH 1-14 exhibiting distinct color at each pH. This respectively. They exhibited good photosensitizing properties for of collaborating literature on the held theory. solar cell activation and textiles applications [25]. There is a dearth stable to temperature and time. It is expected to be utilized for well- being monitoring purposes, refer to Figure 87 [26].

Figure 87: pH biosensor from Red-cabbage pigment on non-woven cellulosic nanofibers [26].

Beetblue, the natural colors are safe to human health, and the unstable pigment therefore difficult to synthesize and apply. Red environment therefore increasingly preferred for food, cosmetics, beetroots comprise antioxidant betalain widely utilized as a food textile, and drugs endues. However, it is difficult to harness the natural colorant [27]. Therefore, a quasibetalain, derived from betalamic blue pigment from animals and microorganisms which involves the acid with stretched π – conjugation was obtained by Freitas, et al. adenosine triphosphate–fueled enzymatic oxidation of luciferins. The 1,11-diazaundecamethinium Beetblue chromophore is ethyl Similarly, blue petaled Bark namely, Blue hydrangea, Cornflower, acetate acid-catalyzed by coupling of betalamic acid, extracted from Morning glory, and Speedwell contains blue metal-anthocyanin beetroot juice and the carbon nucleophile 2,4-dimethylpyrrole, supramolecular complexes and polyacylated anthocyanins are refer to Figure 88 [27].

Figure 88: Synthesis of Beetblue chromophore [27].

The obtained Beetblue chromophore is highly water-soluble, retinal pigment epithelial cells. Beetblue does not affect zebrafish Figure 89. stable, and could be applied on varied substrates as shown in embryonal growth thus safe as concluded by Freitas et al., The study is remarkable and a prelude to enormous possibilities of research colors. and development in green chemistry with plant-based renewable The toxic dyes produce singlet oxygen that damages cells. However, Beetblue was examined to be safe for human hepatic and

Citation: Page 20 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Figure 89: Beetblue on varied substrates [27].

The innovations with natural colors are beyond imaginations environment releasing toxic fumes [29]. Moreover, the scientific and the functionality of plant phytochemicals benefiting the research investigations accomplished on natural colors from plants wearers’ health when in adherence to textiles is miraculous. indicate no possible health treat or toxicity to humans and animals A massively untapped resource ought to be cultivated for the alikeAlso, [11]. to further reinforce the sustainability agenda herbal sustainable future of the textile industry and would prodigiously benefit human and environmental health alike. Subsequently, to materials for textile applications are often from surplus leaves, propel waterless technology herbal biomaterials are instigated herbal biomaterials for functional and sustainable textiles call in for stems, twigs, flowers, fruits, fruit peels, and barks with no harm for experiments with digital print technology. Implementation of to the environment. Surplus water after fabric treatment is a zero- carbon footprint and could be recycled and reused. If discharged enhanced responsibility towards protecting biodiversity and wise damage to aquatic life, environment, or human health therefore into the surrounding ground soil or water bodies, it causes no land planning if it to meet the growing demand [18]. Nevertheless, mass production, it could still massively and strongly contribute to strong, and vital role in the ecosystem. safe to be utilized for processing textile substrates. Still, to evident sustainability in textiles. The plant phytochemicals play a subtle, the theory, several types of research are being proposed examples Conclusions Futureof which areWork cited in the overview presented (Figure 90).

The potential paper takes a holistic approach towards the Reflections from the overview recommend the most significant subject wherein the idea is not to critic synthetic textile fibers and Circularaspects that economy would propel sustainable textiles are as follows. colors, on the other hand, to cohort the lens towards change in attitude at each step of textile production which is a chain reaction and circular in approach. The logic is to adapt to the principle of European commission in 2019 identified the textile clothing nature and back to nature which resonates with our creation. To sector to be a priority in a sustainable product category as accentuate our best compatibility with nature. In the words of it massively contributes to the circular economy. European Sir. A. Einstein ‘Look deep into nature and you will understand Environment Agency has set forth a strategic framework and everything better’. The biomimicry is what we learn from nature corporate replicas to govern environmental and social burdens and acknowledge our deep connections to the biosphere [28]. from textile consumption and production a short illustration The slow cyclic nature impels slow ‘From nature, back to nature’ of it is given in Figure 91. The policy’s goals are to circumvent principle for slow, steady, and winning economy, refer to Figure 90. hazards from synthetic fossil-based textile production, greenhouse Hence, it is imperative to note that the natural plant-based gas emissions, synthetic chemicals toxicity, and water effluents biomaterials for textile applications are non-toxic and safe. They from textile industries. Sustainable plasma surface modification leaves, barks grasses, seeds, roots, trees, and berries. The molecules are predominantly synthesized from natural fruits, flowers, stems, techniques and ecological digital print technology with herbal of natural origin are biodegradable. Whereas the molecules of inks could occupy future research and developments for desirable synthetic chemicals lack biodegradability and remain back in the sustainable outcomes. Eventually propelling the textiles oriented circular economy [18].

Citation: Page 21 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Figure 90: Biomimicry & ‘From Nature Back to Nature’ Principle for Circular Economy.

Figure 91: Sustainable textiles for the circular economy [18].

Multi-disciplinary research approach

Consequently, 11% of market growth demand for natural dyes, pigments, and additives are predicted for 2025. To deliver the The review paper herein reinforces an interdisciplinary growing demand it would be essential to expand the color palette research methodology cultivated and nurtured at the individual, research approach for holistic outcomes. The multi-disciplinary with herbal colors, adapt to ecological technology and software compatible with herbal colors, and rigorously affirm the functional - national, and international levels would reap multiple gains for a properties of herbal materials by performing the required in-vitro lar economy (Figure 91). higher good. An example of the same is illustrated in Figure 92 and and in-situ clinical studies. The ecological approach impels a circu elaborated as follows.

Citation: Page 22 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Figure 92: The multi-disciplinary research approach for global thriveability [18].

investigates sustainable functional biomaterial for ecologically leaves, barks grasses, seeds, roots, trees, and berries. The molecules A multi-disciplinary research approach instigated herein are predominantly synthesized from natural fruits, flowers, stems, of natural origin are biodegradable. Whereas the molecules of synthetic chemicals lack biodegradability and remain back in the printed textiles with aesthetic merit. The envisaged engineering environment releasing toxic fumes. of fabrics essentially involves five fields in research as listed below thriveability. wherein each field participates and profits propelling global

To sum up the role and the potential of green chemistry for Chemistry, the chemistry of plant phytochemicals of plant- ecological and therapeutic textiles are enormously diverse and research. based colors on the textile substrate play a subtle and vital role in copiously existing in nature. Subsequently, with the commitment to protect biodiversity on earth and sustain our interdependent relationship with nature we ought to promulgate afforestation. Medicine, UV protection, and the anti-microbial properties accentuated in research. BiomimicryThriveability is justified scientifically for global enrichment. of the plant-based colors applied to the textile substrate are

Textiles, the biomaterial engineering of plant-based colors on Biomimicry is an inspiration from nature as manifested herein. the textile substrate is primarily dealt with within the research. There are several species of wild herbs and shrubs, also weeds and grasses available in surplus, refer to Figure 93. These resources from Technology, ecological digital print technology, and plasma sustainable outcomes. the forest were recently experimented with by Griffiths, the author surface modification technology are adopted in research for mordanted grey and white Romney wool skeins with traditional alum and cream of tartar. Table 6 shows the wild species by sustainable technologies are assessed on life cycle assessment Environment, the herbal formulations for textile application utilized for processing wool and the colors obtained. Natural coloration is an ancient art that could massively contribute towards software befitting the environmental specifications. sustainability irrespective of mass production. Also, the traditional art and craft natural dye artisans require to be supported by the It is imperative to note that the natural plant-based legislative framework and academics [30]. Unlimited resources and biomaterials for textile applications are non-toxic and safe. They Table 6: Colors were obtained on wool skeins with wild weeds, shrubs, and scopegrasses of [30]. development opine the author (Figure 93).

Wild Weeds, Shrubs & Grasses Grey Wool White Wool Solidago (Goldenrod) Olive Grey

Andropogon gerardii Golden Yellow tinctoria (Big Bluestem (Indigo) Grass) Yellow Yellow Impatiens capensis Citrine Green Citrine Green (Orange Jewelweed) Pink Pink

Citation: Page 23 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals Journal of Textile Science & Fashion Technology Volume 8-Issue 3

Figure 93: a) Jewelweed dyebath and b) wool skeins colored with natural dyes [30].

style abides by certain values. One is environment-friendly Similarly, Cia Wedin conjures up the fact that the Scandinavian look as if inherently compatible to conserve our interdependent Acknowledgmentrelationship with nature for global sustainability. production and craftsmanship which has a long tradition in the Nordic countries. The Scandinavian style predominantly works with natural materials. One of the traditional and common material The author is grateful to the anonymous funder for sponsoring in Nordic design is leather however it is not as good as it was once Conflictsustainability-based of Interest research for global cause and benefits. abuse to animals, the environment, and humans. Therefore, the thought upon. Leather production has proved to be toxic, it involves

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Citation: Page 25 of 25 . 8(3): 2021. JTSFT.MS.ID.000689. DOI: 10.33552/JTSFT.2021.07.000689. Alka Madhukar Thakker, Danmei Sun. Biologically Plant-Based Pigments in Sustainable Innovations for Functional Textiles – The Role of Bioactive Plant Phytochemicals